Changing all 4 motor mounts 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 4.0
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- Опубликовано: 13 мар 2020
- Customer was having vibrations and heaving knocking sounds in the engine bay when driving. After inspection was able to see all 4 motor mounts were worn and broken.
Here is a detailed video on how i was able to change all 4 mounts at 1 time.
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you do not need to remove the lower cross member for anything.. front mount slides right in without it. Do not remove the transmission mount on the transmission. Use a pry bar to move the engine just enough to get the side bolt in AND out.
Thank you so much, It was so helpful video. my Dad and I replaced 4-mount after we watched your video May the God bless you.
This is the EXACT video I have been looking for for MONTHS. So much garbage out there but this video is truly excellent. Thank you.
Excellent video, it has not garnered enough likes for the quality of video this is, thanks for taking the time to put together such a detailed video, this will help tremendously
Great video. I have a 2013 Grand Caravan that might need to have all 4 replaced. Your video really helps me to get an idea what I need to do. Thank you for your awesome explanations on how to tackle this.
Wish I could give you more than 1 thumbs up! After studying your video several times I got the courage to replace all 4 mounts. Great Video!!!
On the passenger side did you replace the aluminim bracket? All the kits I'm finding these days only come with the rubber part. I suppose the bracket is not likely to need to be replaced.
Very good! Glad to know you are here in Vegas.
Excellent video, great comments while showing the parts and procedures. everything you need to do from step one to finish. nice!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show us.
Dude you are such a good mechanic
Just did all 4, took me 5 hours!! That rear one is a b----. I tool the AL bracket off the motor (4 bolts) to access the front 2 bolts and used a 8" extension on a 3/8 laying on my back to reach all 4 of the rear mount bolts from the rear. all came out pretty easily and suprisingly went in just as easily. The hang up was the stupid through bolt on the rear. I had to taper the end of the bolt and use a nut driver so it would find its threads as the mount is not quite aligned when all 4 are new? Id do the rear first them the 3 easy ones up front. The hydraulic one on the passenger side was completely collapsed, 1" shorter than the new one.
Great video! Excellent in details.
Gotta spend my Saturday morning doing my mounts. Got tie-rod ends, control arm and struts as well.
THANKS!
Same for my 08 this week; they're
Awesome job JDC! Great best practices. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for sharing, this is this weekends project 🤘😎
Good job. Glad the van did not fall on you. The way you have those two stands just sitting on that flat slick frame member is not good. You should always engage the saddle of a stand like that on a frame member or suspension member that will engage the saddle of the stand yoke, preferably as far out to the sides of the vehicle as possible.
The way you have the stands, they have only 4 tiny points of contact of a flat/slick surface. You have them placed near the centerline of the car too which is not optimal for stability. One good shake of the car(torquing a bolt or struggling with removing a mount) could make just one stand slip slightly, cascading into a failure of both. You are somewhat protected by the fact you have kept the floor jack supporting the motor, but still not ideal. Great work on the motor mounts, just a bit of a suggestion to keep people safe when they do this job. Sadly people do die under cars that have been incorrectly supported.
Good advice! Some how could not find any frame on town and country that could engage the sandle part, all the solid frame is too wide
Great video, just did all 4 on my 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan. Thank you Sir!!
What mileage did you do this repair and weather in your state?
A very niece video tutorial, even the mishaps and small errors help you to expect similar encounters or even improve if at all possible. I give this video a 10 of 10.
Thank you bud!
Great video ...and that rear mount was a pain 😢...start with it and the others will be a joy! I didn't need to remove the lower crossmember either.
Thanks for the video. I just bought the parts to do it myself. Thanks.
Had the motor mount under the battery replaced on my 2009 dodge grand caravan SE 3.3l. You don't need to remove any extra bracke. The 2 bolts sitting on the side of the frame, the moment you brake them loose, use your fingers to un-tight the rest of the way, it's curves down, and comes out. It almost feels like a tight squeeze, but it does come out. Then you put the new mount in, and with your fingers, insert both bolts untill it's tight, then finish off with a rench, then torque spec it.
I got mine out curving up, but down may have been easier. Im going ot go back in this weekend and replace all 4 after I found the battery one brone after I took it out. Trans was making a grunting noise on the 1-2 shift and I determined the motor was moving on the shift and hitting something. Thank goodness it wasnt the transmission as that would have been $$$ on a $$ van.
I'm a welder/fabricator and love doing my own work on my vehicle. I noticed that you are not wearing safety glasses. Remember safety first!
Great vid
Excellent video! Thankyou!
EXCELLENT VIDEO WITH VERY DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS, GREAT CAMERA ANGLES....
Thank you!
Bro I watched your video and literally just finished
@39:02. you can take those horizontal bolts out, you just have to wiggle them and manipulate the motor height a little. The rear one is a PITA but if you line up the hex top so the flats fit between the aluminum bracket webbing, you CAN get it out. I took 3mm off the end off that bolt with a grinder and it fit back in with no problem. Not sure why they used that length bolt as a shorter one would be easier to remove. I ordered all 4 after replacing the front 3 months ago and now the one under the battery is bad. I'm sure all 4 are bad at 155,000 miles.
Very thorough, much better than using ProDemand. Thank you.
Thank you for being so detailed in your recording! This is great!
Thank you very much man
No problem 😊
Great video. I replaced all 4 following this. Not a fun job!
What was the mileage and year of your van when doing your repair? 😁
@@rodneysmith247 09 140K. I had done the front and rear before at about 70K
Hey man, great video. Quick question, what did you torque the bolts on that crossmember to? I can't find the spec anywhere.
I'm doing this project as we speak and there are 2 things to note:
First, take a look at your lower control arms and, while you're at it, swaybar bushings & endinks.
If they need to be replaced, NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT! In order to r&I the front inner bushing bolt ( the horizontal bolt) on the driver's side, you're gonna have to lift the transmission in order to allow the bolt to clear. (About to tackle passenger side, but it doesn't appear to be nearly as obstructed; if it is, I'll follow up)
And secondarily, do your mounts one at a time so as to maintain relative alignment of the engine/transmission.
If you're doing inner and outer tierods, don't remove old ones until the new control arm is reinstalled. This will help minimize any thrust of the half shafts away from the transaxle.
☆ I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC; IF ANYONE HAS BETTER 8 REGARDING THE ORDER OF OPERATIONS, I'D BE MUCH APPRECIATIVE!
grate vid ihave a dodge 2009 how eazy is to change gearbox mount at the bottom
How many mounts does the Dodge avenger 2.4 VVT have also is it similar to this video
Great video I definitely need the front lawn motor mount. Do you find it all the others need to get replaced at the same time or just this vehicle had them all bad?
I also found an easier way to get the two front bolts, you have to stretch over the top of the mount from behind the engine towards the front of the van with an extension pointing semi straight down to the two front bolts.
You can put some bolts in without raising engine fully: for example passenger side by keeping the bolts mostly loose and angling the new mount. As you tighten the bolts alternating, you raise the engine!
What is the torque specs for the 3 big bolts and the torque for the two small nuts?
Thanks for the torque specs
No problem 👍
New game: Take a shot every time this guy says "Go ahead." Lordy.
How about sounds of frame on frame banging while going over bumps I have done the struts ass outer control arm ass pretty much a but the mo mount any thoughts
Thank you for this video.
With the rear mount, I am having a difficult time aligning the center bolt. I have a jack on the oil pan. Should I have another under the transmission? I am open to any suggestions. Thank you again.
I ended up sliding a crowbar up in there and pressing it into position. My issue was the opposite of his: I couldn’t lower the engine any more to align it.
Thanks
What size is the bolt you were putting in at 32:11
Couldn’t you get those front bolts lose from the top of the van?
I just did the tranny mount, the last one you did, and i didn't need to take off the aluminum bracket for those 2 tight side bolts.
Just had to wiggle the bolts downward and they came out.
same with putting them back in,
had to put the bolts upward and use my other finger to guide it in the hole.
Just enough room!!
Did you use Mopar parts or can you tell us the brand you installed, thanks
How much did you charge to replace them?
I'm getting a rough vibration at idle, I'm looking at either a vacuum leak or motor mounts. Did this job change how the van vibrated at idle?
You can put the van in gear and with your foot on the brake have someone rev the engine and the motor will usually move and when you start and turn it off it will clank. When shifting into reverse it will also clank. At faster freeway speeds you'll start to get a noticable vibration like at 70mph on my van.
How are those power torque motor mounts
JDC great video. When replacing all mounts is the pressure off the engine (engine raised) while replacing all 4 mounts. Thx. JP
I'm doing this project as we speak and there are 2 things to note:
First, take a look at your lower control arms and, while you're at it, swaybar bushings & endings.
If they need to be replaced, NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT! In order to r&I the front inner bushing bolt ( the horizontal bolt) on the driver's side, you're gonna have to lift the transmission in order to allow the bolt to clear. (About to tackle passenger side, but it doesn't appear to be nearly as obstructed; if it is, I'll follow up)
And secondarily, do your mounts one at a time so as to maintain relative alignment of the engine/transmission.
If you're doing inner and outer tierods, don't remove old ones until the new control arm is reinstalled. This will help minimize any thrust of the half shafts away from the transaxle.
☆ I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC; IF ANYONE HAS BETTER RECOMMMENDATIONS REGARDING THE ORDER OF OPERATIONS, I'D BE MUCH APPRECIATIVE!
I'm doing this project as we speak and there are 2 things to note:
First, take a look at your lower control arms and, while you're at it, swaybar bushings & endings.
If they need to be replaced, NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT! In order to r&I the front inner bushing bolt ( the horizontal bolt) on the driver's side, you're gonna have to lift the transmission in order to allow the bolt to clear. (About to tackle passenger side, but it doesn't appear to be nearly as obstructed; if it is, I'll follow up)
And secondarily, do your mounts one at a time so as to maintain relative alignment of the engine/transmission.
If you're doing inner and outer tierods, don't remove old ones until the new control arm is reinstalled. This will help minimize any thrust of the half shafts away from the transaxle.
☆ I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC; IF ANYONE HAS BETTER RECOMMMENDATIONS REGARDING THE ORDER OF OPERATIONS, I'D BE MUCH APPRECIATIVE!
What are the symptoms that identified that problem?
Currently trying to replace the transmission mount under the battery. I need to raise the transmission side of the motor up a solid inch to be able to put the last 2 bolts that atach the mount to the tranny but when i try to jack it up...its just raising the whole car instead if raising the transmission/motor. Is there something im missing to be able to raise it up???
Nevermind...I just needed to keep jacking it up past a certain point before the tranny itself finally rose up.
Does it matter witch one first???
Also, the driver's side mount...you may not need to remove the 4 bolts on the tranny. I have a 2009 T&C and the two horizontal bolts wiggled out with a mm to spare. Thank goodness! Allocate about 3 hours for bottom and 3 hours for top...tech only...good luck! 😎
Where did you order your parts from
How many miles did this vehicle have on it?
How many miles was on the van when you did your great video? 😁
I think it was around 150k
What is the symptom that would cause one to want to replace all four mounts?
And which one actually failed
Hello, Symptoms are medium-heavy vibration of the engine, So much so that you can feel it in the car at idle. Knocking noises during acceleration. Visual moment of the engine while in gear with foot on the brake-press the gas and watch the engine move. Visual inspection was the reason to replace all 4. The rubber inserts in all 4 motor mount were worn and broken loose from the housings.
What impact dewalt wrench were you using?
www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899HB-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-nc-drs1_0?cv_ct_cx=dewalt&dchild=1&keywords=dewalt&pd_rd_i=B00WTQW7JA&pd_rd_r=df385aeb-e87d-44ce-a96d-35cfd664589d&pd_rd_w=8pmXZ&pd_rd_wg=eJqgh&pf_rd_p=43f4b3f0-0b04-46ba-8a08-2e851d035e17&pf_rd_r=92XHGHMA22D84K5MC43X&psc=1&qid=1595047124&sr=1-1-f3947b35-9c59-4d7a-9603-b751e6eed25b
This impact tool is well worth the money!!
Looking at this for a friend (he as a VW flavor). Wow....far more of a PITA than in an E63S, far lower quality OE parts....FAR more work...great video though.
My friend 2010 Chrysler town and country rear Motor mount every time I change it take a month or two and it’s getting really bad can you help thank you only the rear one get bad
Check the other motor mounts to make sure they are not worn. Other bad mounts can cause the others to go bad as well.
JDC Auto thank you very much I find out why because I was having small accidents on the front that’s why and it’s looks like the Engine had shifted but the others more motor mounts was OK anyway thank you for the help
Does it matter which mount you change first?
Not really
in the end did you figure out whether or not you can take out the right side motor mount (inside the engine compartment underneath the battery box) without removing the aluminum bracket that was a pain in the butt and you had to access the three bolts from within the wheel compartment... ???
ENded up having to remove the bracket.. the bolts will not come out if you dont!
@@jdcauto5977 you didn't need to remove it at all.. a pry bar moves the engine enough to get them out.
I removed the bolts without a pry bar, or removing the aluminum bracket.
Once the bolts are out all the way,
push the head down and wiggle a little sideways and they will come out.
Same with putting back in, come straight up with the thread's and use other fingrr to guide in hole and they will go in.
Symptoms would be key to that Replacement
Why no anti seize on the bolts?
I'm guessing it's not really worth the time and effort in such a hot/dry climate. The vehicle will likely be scrapped before the bolts are anywhere near frozen.
How much is the service fee JDC?
Hourly Rate is $80 p/h
🧠👍🧠💪🧠👁️🧠 EXCELENTE 🧠
I love how you acted like that didn't hurt LOL. 23:23 . Nice video though, mechanic wanted $450, which isn't terrible considering the parts are ~200 but I'm not a fucking millionaire
Hahaha
Mine is VW ROUTAN 2010 4.0 SEL. If that helps anyone else, basically they’re Chryslers.
These mounts do not last long, if you intend to keep the vehicle, you get some liquid urethane and pour it into the open cavities in the new mounts and let it set up, especially the mount that receives the engine torque in drive , that mount with never separate again 😎
So, to make sure I'm understanding correctly, are you saying the replacement front mount, prior being installed, should have the gaps into the webbing of the mount?
I'm intrigued, hope you are able to reply before I replace my failed mount!
And if what I'm thinking is correct. Perhaps replacement isn't necessary? Repositioning the metal sleeve that receives the horizontal mounting bolt, wouldn't it just be more urethane, less rubber?
@@mechantics Just happened to be on my computer and received your message. You can approach this urethane modification 2 ways #1 remove the thin rubber webbing as you mentioned leaving only the 3 main parts of the mount in place, use some strong cardboard or 1/4 plywood and tape securely ( duct tape ) one side of the mount and fill with urethane but not the bolt hole! #2 if you're mount is already broken (rubber separated) remove the entire center section of the mount including all rubber material within the mount cavitie, pay attention to the center section orientation how it relates to the outer mount that's bolted to the vehicle. Again seal one side of the mount with center section in proper place pour the urethane and let set for 24 hours. It's that simple! Take note that urethane can set-up with different densities or hardness, A (62a) durometer level (hardness) is recommended for street cars that may see occasional track use. Look for that number when buying the urethane, generally in black or red. Lastly you'll have to check out the costs compared to installing a basically cheap mount. Last point of interest with the urethane approach there is no one point in the mount that is being stretched , it becomes one donut cushion which will last much much longer than the weak under engineered factory mount, it keeps there production costs down. Hope I helped out and it mounts to something.! 😎
Why did you replace a broken front motor mount with another damaged one? There was literally hardly any rubber left in the front mount on the new one. By the time you put it in and the owner drives away it’ll break within mins.
That's how they're made. Most of the support comes from the side mounts and the front and rear mainly damper vibration.
The bolts DO in fact come out without taking off that silver part.. thank god I didn't watch that part 40:42
Are you bored. Why are you replacing all four mounts. Is there visible damage? Why?
I responded below to this question already
What are the torque values for the engine support, the 5 bolts and the body bushing bolt?
Thanks
No Problem!