Flush Concrete to Framing? Here's a Stainless Flashing Fix!
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- Опубликовано: 13 апр 2020
- I often run into this issue when doing remodel projects. We added a front porch to this house and the inside to outside concrete only had a 3/4" drop to transition from framing to the porch slab. In this video I'll show you how to use a let-in stainless flashing to make a long term waterproof connection on this covered porch.
FYI: I bought the flashing locally at a roof flashing house, but you can likely have your roofer bend this profile for you. Also, the Prosoco Joint and Seam is available via local distributors. Here's their spec page. prosoco.com/product/joint-sea...
Lastly, the Butyl Sealant I'm using is Mortar Net's mortarnet.com/btl-1-sealant/
Alternatively, you can use an all-Butyl sealant like this available locally. amzn.to/34DI8Cc
My Tajima Chalk Line. amzn.to/3eh6I01
Lastly, check out my Amazon store for my favorite Tools, Building Books, and other gadgets that I've liked over the years! www.amazon.com/shop/mattrisinger
Follow Me on Instagram! / risingerbuild
or Twitter / mattrisinger
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Rockwool & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds. We would highly encourage you to check out their websites for more info.
www.Poly-Wall.com
www.Dorken.com
www.Huberwood.com
www.Prosoco.com
www.Viewrail.com
www.Rockwool.com
I haven't watched all Matts videos but this might the first one that I've seen him actually doing the work. Nice.
Thank you for shedding light on the errors made by companies who have worked on my house. Finding anyone who puts the time and attention in to details like the ones you just reviewed is next to impossible.
You have a specific video for every last thing I want to over-engineer on my own projects. I wish they sold a lot of this stuff at Lowes because now I'm waiting for deliveries, but it's totally worth it.
I like your focus on the detail on sealing out water that people typically skim over. You showed something unique. People make so many assumptions to resolve a potential problem but you showed some nice detail on a potential future problem you didn't want occurring and unique resolution to it ... nice !!
I’m a mason out of Columbia MO I love using Mortar Net products! Awesome brother, love seeing time spent and actually caring of quality over quantity
No joke - your porch is bigger than my house.
I've been watching your channel for about a year - great to see you finally doing some work!
Belt and braces approach. Excellent. This is the first time I have seen this detail, and I think it is awesome.
Your videos are so very helpful. Thank you for the tips and help! I wish everyone built houses like you.
I have done this several times. In places where there was negative fall. I used polyurethane concrete self leveling caulk. Very effective
Great stuff, as always. I’m excited to see how you finish this floor. I’ve struggled to perfect this detail and appreciate your thoughtful guidance here.
Loving these videos with Matt actually doing work :P Good to know you still have the skills. Great videos, keep it up
This house is going to be so layered, it will definitely be the last house standing from this era! I love it, I bet Matt is constantly thinking about every extra step he can add to add years to his house...I hope it becomes a family heirloom that stays a Risinger home for several Generations, if we don't get ourselves kicked off the planet by then!
Well if his family doesn't keep it, I'm sure the next owner will appreciate the effort he put in to keep it as trouble free as possible. Of course, not everyone is a builder and may wonder what the point of going to all the trouble.
Some people unfortunately, 'just don't care'.
Adam Garrett he almost makes me feel bad for my “it only has to outlast me” mentality lol
Definitely will be sold
@@Beandiptheredneck that's real. You leave something that's worth a child's entire net worth. They better sell and downsize
Really useful information for a problematic condition. Lots of time you find this issue on remodels so a really good fix.
I don’t understand having any thumbs down on this lol. This was very helpful for the way my house was already built and rotted out. I now know how to fix it.
Even though I find this project kind off of the rails, I've always appreciated the honesty. I know you bought the house basically sight unseen to help out someone from your church. It has certainly been a journey learning the real condition.
Whoa! That's a nice detail. Way to look ahead. Great problem solving!
Love your content, though I am not a builder, other than amateur handyman. Love your occasional collaborations with the "other" Matt on his "mansion" project as well. Thank you for the content, always enjoyable!
Thanks, Matt. Throwing ideas into my brain that may come in handy at some future buildpoint.
Actually happy to see you using a kneeling pad. I have worked in construction and retail, where kneeling on concrete floors is an all day thing. Knee pads aren't always the best answer.
These are the kinds of details that make a huge difference.
Love the detail of your videos. So easy to follow
Sweet, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Matt!
Just the detail I was looking for, thanks Matt!
thats an interesting solution to your problem.
since I will be building in snow country, I was thinking that a complete wrap around porch, about 8 feet out, with gravel base should keep any and all water away from my foundation/basement walls. the freeze/thaw cycle would never have a chance either.
Thanks for the advice this is a great solution when building a wall on concrete slab
I have kerfed 1 inch deep at planned sheeting line and stood up flashing bedded in tremco buytl and incorporate into WRB. No bend necessary and a much deeper embedment. On house to garage slabs I cast in place.
This guy is a king! He is water sealing his house like he's water sealing shower.
I would love to have him build my house in the future
This detail is precisely what I need in my remodel.
I look forward to seeing this front door!
Old school, my man. This is how flashing on chimneys was done (cutting the groove in the brick chimney and inserting a 90 degree bent corner to keep water from running behind the flashing instead of the dumb way done today with surface mounted flashing and gallons of silicone which eventually dries out and allows it to leak. Good job.
Seeing these little details is just amazing. I was pressure washing my patio off of my walkout basement and had water go right underneath the wall and into said basement. Luckily it's unfinished, but this detail would have been perfect to stop this from happening.
I have a question we are going to be building a block house in the Philippines but I don't really trust the products that they have can you give me some ideas
You always deliver good useful detailed info that we listen closely to fully grok. Not sure if the conga drums are a necessary counterpoint. Maybe long notes on an organ would move the flow more subtly
Smart Man, your house it bringing up some really cool designs
Great tip! Thanks for sharing this!
Amazing video like usual. Keep it up.
Really useful info... but man do I hate that stupid ending. Such a bro.
I like that. That can take years of sideways rain and not give out.
I swear Matt will have a zip tape feature wall in his new finished house. 😂
Matt, at some point you're going to decide weather you're building a house or a submarine. LOVE THE BUILD SHOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice closure detail.
I needed this video. I have a flush built garage that gets water this should do the trick
My garage also takes in water and was looking for a solution like this .
Man you really put a lot of trust into these unproven glues and tapes.
How have you determined they are unproven?
Great detail. Hurricane Ike caused $22 k damage to our house in 2008 due to wind-driven rain getting through the brick veneer and running down the sheathing and coming in under the sill plate. (And the weep holes had been plugged by mulch)
Oh man. That’s terrible Mark.
This may be a solution I was looking for.
Love your videos Matt!
Matt's house is 16% flashing by weight lol Love it!
Matt, since you're in Austin: you should consider doing a 'compare & contrast' with Gary Zuker's build there-since he went the ''natural materials' and 'DIY route''; toured on Kirsten Dirksen's channel. . . . Video is titled 'Austin coder builds timeless cob home using precise patterns'.
I will do it too. Thanks for idea.
Hi Mate, if you wanted to add an extra precaution for waterproofing you could add a waterproofing membrane. I have seen cases here in Australia where people haven't waterproofed bathrooms properly and haven't fully coated the base of the shower and just sealed the floor-wall junctions, the concrete gets waterlogged and the moisture migrates under the waterproofing and out into the neighbouring rooms. This could happen with your flashing if you get moisture sitting there for long enough. Very unlikely but could be worthwhile if you want to ensure no water enters your house
Nice video, Dusty
interesting solution. thanks for sharing.
In this world of on demand videos I find myself wanting to binge watch this build, keep pumping them out brother, im excited to see more details about your build. Here's a idea for you; make a dvd of the build and make a time capsule in a wall or floor of your house, that way in 100 years when its being remodeled they will find it. You could ask fans what to put in it, that would be great just be sure to add a build hat!
I would suggest having another bead of sealant behind the vertical leg to prevent any chance of sweat (condensation) or water overtopping of the flashing for mold/mildew prevention. Also, you're creating an open hole when running screws through the flashing, so apply an extra vertical broad bead on the wall through which the screw will pass sealing that possible water pathway.
I just don't think your tape will adhere or resist punctures as well as you hope ( I noticed your head shaking in doubt) it will.
Your videos are awesome. I changed the garage door to the opposite side and had been having water coming in after I applied stucco, I completely missed doing this and will be doing it soon. Also I’m trying to level my garage floor because it’s uneven due to the door movement. It had about 2” difference for water to out come in but now I need it leveled. Know how I can do that since it quite a bit ? Thanks
Great work my brother!
Well done!
Great video
Hey Mat, a quick question from Australia. Did you do anything to minimize thermal bridging between the existing slab inside the house and the new slab on the porch? If not what suggestions do you have to insulate between the internal and external slabs. Would be interested in a video discussing this. Stay safe.
I used the brad nailer on the wall of the flashing edge towards the wall after applying the flashing sealant. I hope the nail didn't hurt it.
Very nice.Dean
I like thinking about little things that would give houses a longer life span, because I see so many houses falling apart due to not having basic prevention, then Matt here goes and 3X that haha
I missed this video. Now I've got to start over. 😢
@mattrisinger I wish I could afford your services, but as an aspiring young homeowner, I plan to buy & rehabilitate property using the many things I learn from you & the Build Show crew.
One little missed detail...your vertical zip tape on the seams of the zip panels should shingle/lap over the horizontal zip tape you installed for the flashing.
I don't agree with the kerf cut into the concrete with flashing embed in sealant. This is a water wicking scenario when the sealant fails. I would use a brick ledge flashing profile making sure the slope is maintained during install. This way, water intrusion won't wick up into the zip panel. Never butt joints with flashing.
Dude, you're a gangster!!
That is such an amazing idea! I would have never have thought of something like that. Thanks for sharing
Anything worth doing is worth over doing. Nice.
This looks like a great solution to a problem at my house.
Would aluminum flashing be sufficient? I imagine stainless steel has to be really expensive.
I love those 3 buck knee pads.
Matt,
What is your opinion about using the Zip 2.0 system in an area that may flood? (South Louisiana)
On flooding right about the slab (2-3”) when doors are sand bagged could the Zip system hold back water?
Once flooded, less than 1 foot, is opening the drywall enough to dry out cavities?
In flood prone areas, would you recommend other methods?
Love your show, the science, and attention to detail. Thanks for all you do! Richie
you ha ve done every thing right
Hey Matt, I've built my house myself watching a LOT of your videos, so thanks for good information being shared. I have the same ledge around my walkout basement/patio slab. I was just going to use the Huber Liquid Flash for the transition between the Zipwall and the slab drop which is about three inches. Do you think that will be fine or should I use the Prosoco? I liquid flashed all of my windows, so I have both on hand. I was going to use your "Zip 1.5" method.
sponsorship legalities will prevent him from answering, most likely. IMHO and not having much experience with the products, I would bet both fluid applied materials are essentially the same chemistry
When you're flashing the wall, especially with the Liquid Zip - how much coverage (how many panels can you cover) do you get per sausage tube?
I am currently in the middle of an identical project and this was so helpful - thanx much! One question though, is it necessary to cut into the slab so the lip goes into it? As I don't have equipment that will saw through concrete, could I just have the flashing coming out say 4 or 5 inches? Also, would that BTL product be useful under the plate for a little extra protection? I got a lot of rain water coming in and need every bit of insurance I can get....thanx.
Me: I'm a belt-and-suspenders guy.
Matt: I'm a belt and suspenders and button and velcro and duct tape and zip-ties guy.
I have the same scenario, but I am putting a 3" topping slab on top top f my structural slab. This is an exposed exterior balcony.
Should I do this application on my structural slab and extend flashing up past the topping slab ? Or should I only do this process on top of final topping slab against my wall?
Thanks guys.
This really looks like complex thinking..and i believe this will happen only when you are building your own..usually i don't see this kind of details in houses that somebody else is building..But again..it looks like it actually works...btw i think..it looks to me like that metal sheet was bended too much..i would suggest bent it in angle more than 90 degree (so it would rather want to touch the wall instead of going opposite way then you have to force it by screws towards the wood)...i'm a bit afraid that that stainless steel might come off..even it was glued..but during days or years..it might..
But again..Nice video and you did what you could to prevent water coming inside..100 points for that :)
internal corners look great but what did you do on external corner with metal flashing - we have the same situation on our balcony/porch which been filtrating for 40 years on the line where is concrete slab of the porch is connecting to the wall of the house, now we are trying to the same system as you just showed with copper flashing and external corner is very tricky one to make it tight, flash and waterproofed..
good job sir thank s
Like concrete, there are 2 types of sealant, ones that have failed and ones that will fail,...….mechanical flashing, IE shingled does not require sealants.
Sealants are required in some places/circumstances...…..that's just the way it is...…..while they can certainly be minimized, they can not eliminated.
The sealant isn't there as a front-line defense. It's basically there as a "belt an suspenders and ..." type solution.
The actual finish of the wall/porch surface is the front line defense.
The flashing is there to handle whatever little bit gets by the wall finish.
The sealant is there mainly as a bulk filler (like packing peanuts in a shipping box) for the minimal space in the kerf cut and under the flashing. If it has its own waterproof/resistant properties, and is long-lived as a sealant? Bonus points!
So, even if the sealant fails (as a sealant or an adhesive), it's still providing the bulk fill in the waterproofing solution.
So you wouldn’t have butt-jointed the flashing?
@@aayotechnology Unless there was a detail/tolerance that prevented it no,...but it would have still used the same sealants no matter what. Who knows, the sealant might out last the flashing.....
Nothing is guaranteed in life, we just do the best to minimize.
Hi! New sub here. Love your channel. I’m just wondering if you’d recommend installing a weep screed for a similar install.
Also, in our home, we don’t have sheathing at all. Because of cost and contemplation of your and other recommendations, we have decided to do tyvek attached to framing, with a layer of 3/4 xps sheathing, then a layer of stucco wrap as a rain screen, followed by Hardie. Would this flashing attach to the first layer of tyvek? Any thoughts/recommendations on what we have going on here? We don’t have time to wait for zip to come down in pricing.
Hey I have been watching your videos gathering info about ZIP sheeting I seen in one of ur videos u was using all liquid flash and even used it on the sheeting to foundation detail did you not like that doing this just wondering .. I am going to use ZIP sheeting on my mom's house and not to many people around here have used it I really liked the idea of the liquid flash looks like u can make a simple thought less water tight seems
We are in the process of replacing our siding, and doing this at our patio. I am unable to find any z bars taller than 1- 1/8 to fasten to the sheathing. This is fine to attach where the patio slab is closer to the baseplate, but further down the grade, it doesn’t reach to fasten it with nails. Would you suggest fastening with only polymer in these areas, or attaching the flashing level with the baseplate and bending the bar to attach into the cut? Thanks!
Matt, do you have any suggestions for lintels that are allowing water to leak through a center block wall?
Great vid and although I rarely comment I need help.
WHY does HD sell cheap deck screw with a star? bit? What happened to the #2 Phillips (that I have dozens of)???
Is it a better driver but I got a cheap/junk bit?
Thanks
Great video! Thanks!! Please tell me you were not using that kerchief as your respiratory protection when you were cutting into the concrete!
We had an N 95 mask
Please refer me to a place where I can get this flushing because the addition was built directly onto patio concrete and the wall framing was put directly onto it which allowed some water to flow into the house under the framing which may have rotten the old joists and Im in the middle of replacing the joists and sistering the suds along with new bottom frame under the studs. I wish I could attach some pictures to this but.... I need advice to do it myself, I would put new exterior walls but i need to prevent the water from coming in. So I need a place to buy the flush metal thing. I need help asap.. Thank you
Matt, thanks for sharing!
Quick question: can we use 2" x 1-1/2" x 1/2". x 10 ft. 28 Gauge Galvanized Steel Water Table Flashing or Drip Cap?
It protects the top of exterior windows and doors from water infiltration. It seems to have the same shape.
Jamie
How would you flash concrete patii to an existing stucco wall?
I think this will help me. My porch (concrete) is above my garage. I got a water leak damaging the ceiling of this unit. The concrete has several cracks but the water leak stains makes me believe that the water is coming straight down from the siding that most likely doesn't have the flashing joint. What else do you recommend i could do to the concrete porch, which was built back in 1976, to ensure there are not more water leaks. The association can't afford to redo the whole concrete porch. Contractor is recommending a Rubber membrane to repel the water in the meantime. any recommendations? have you ever deal with something like that?
I would have underbent the flashing a bit so once snapped into the groove it would have created a slight pitch away from the wall and would of held a little tighter against the wall requiring no fasteners. Other than that great job. I would have done thd same .
Hey matt so are the products used in this video (the black caulking you used )better than the huber zip liquid flashing you use in the newer videos ????
I like the look of that ZIP sheathing system, would you fix your rain screen / cladding directly to it or install a cavity batten system first?
mickey blowman that's what I'm wondering,
Pretty sure insulation gets attached directly to it, then rain screen, then outer layer (brick?).
One more for ya lol why use hardie over lp smart side?
Look at the boss getting his hands dirty! He must want to make sure this is done right the first time.
Hi Matt does standing up the zip sheets sacrifice sear strength? I know you have lvl studs so its probably not as big of a deal?
What's the minimum required in Texas? our builder did not install any flashing where the siding meets the foundation and the foundation sticks out about an inch off the exterior wall, this along with the fact that the siding butts with the foundation instead of overlapping, is causing water to leak into our garage. The problem is that, this can be seen happening at other portions of the house which is concerning.
Would you recommend this flashing for a shed next to a pool?
Hi! Do they sell that waterproofing compound in clear color?