FIRST DRIVE in The CHEAPEST TURBO RX8 on the Planet - IT MAKES BOOST!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Will it make any more power than a stock Renesis? I think so. Is it cheaper than going to an all out N/a build? Will it put more smiles on everyone's face? YES YES YES
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/ radpotential
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Keep showing the computer stuff, no better way to learn without doing it yourself
Agreed. I really like that stuff. Next level cinematography and content. Just plain cool to see
I agree with Moose & Brandon…. Love the rotating hood cam!!
RP really moving up on the youtube algorithm. Pretty soon you'll be at 100k subs man
LOVE the CAD footage. I worked in SolidWorks for an aftermarket automotive company for a bit, and I also worked as a Civil Structural designer in O&G industry, so I'm fond of seeing that part of the process!
Letty is still chasing lawn donuts! Good girl!! Forever young
I think your MAF sensor placement is going to be a bit of a problem with its proximity to the turbo. I would do a 90 degree elbow off the turbo and put the maf in the straight section between radiator support and the elbow. You want it in as long/straight of a place as you can. This will reduce turbulence and improve idle/light load drivability.
Just need a stick with a line drawn on it for a gas gauge and you will be full custom! lol
My 72 super beetle rally car in college had the dip stick. 👍
See if you can hover a ball over the exhaust when it’s running.
Great content! Valuable and relevant to plenty of RX8 owners I’m sure. Look forward to seeing the further progress and learnings of this project.
Your MAF is probably going to be erratic without a proper length of straight tube fore & aft of it's position and mesh screens, it also should be as far away from the turbo possible. The VE table is mislabelled and is a correction table for the MAF output in the calculation, it corrects for pulse reversions and such. Use MegalogviewerHD to analyze the logs because versatuner isn't any good for logviewing; no histograms, scatter plots, filters or math channels to help you. You want something that can generate histograms that replicate the break points of the map you're modifying, that's the only way to get good reliable correction values to apply to the VE table.
Closed loop max load 1-2 & 3 are delayed closed loop exit tables, Load limit unk (unk=unknown) is the immediate CL exit table. There are 3 other CL exit delay timer tables not defined: if actual load > Closed loop max load table and CL exit delay timer table is elapsed then open loop fuelling.
Load calculation baro & IAT adjustments apply to the max operating load table so the actual limit goes up or down depending on the correction % applied. When you increase the max load allowable, you need to retouch everything above the stock load limit on the VE & fuel tables. Boosted tables need to be re-scaled so the load axis goes higher than the max load you'll see, start with 200% load. IAT table can't have values under 1 above ambient because boost...
Fuel tables are gear dependent; fuel table 1(gear 1-2), fuel table 2(gear 3-4) & fuel table 3(gear 5-6). I calculate current gear from my logs with math channels so I always know what table I'm currently operating from in my log, I also log clutch & neutral switches and use them as filters to remove data from the logview histogram.
SSV table seems to be overridden open before 3k rpm by the turbo people for spool-up reasons.
Fuel targeting is AFR base value + additive afr table cruising range = target and, high loads & high rpm on this same table correlate roughly to lambda 1 - value = target. There are other undefined tables that affect WOT targets. Example: in (afr) 14.7-1.4700=13.23 in CL and drops to about 11.23 in OL. OL OBD2 target is 14.6 (actual AFR around 12.6) normally and 13.3 during fuel cut but the AFR is around 11.3 so there is an offset of -2 AFR points between CL & OL fuel targets. So your turbo additive table should have the -1.4700 value copied all the way down to the highest load axis cell and left to where the boost threshold is.
Ignition... versatuner doesn't have much defined other than 2 leading & 1 trailing table, basic idle controls & some knock tables . In winOLS I found 4 leading, 5 trailing including a minimum split table and also the knock sensitivity tables for each rotor.
I'm probably forgetting a lot but hopefully someone else will chip in...
Great info hope he reads this
Big fan of the screen sharing! So much easier to learn and understand what you're talking about when it comes to the technical stuff
Used it at work all the time to help and teach younger staff members design and CAD
@@RADPotentialYou have very lucky staff, you're a very good teacher. I've learnt a lot from your channel, haven't missed an episode since I followed.
Hey rad I’ve been watching your videos for a while and I have a 1985 rx7 and I can’t get it to start I’ve poured gas in the carb and It has popped like it wants to start but just won’t wondering if you have anything to help thanks
Have you check the ignition system? Such as spark plug, plug wire, and timing?
@@fisshuman yes
@@fisshuman I’m no mechanic but I’ve tried as much as I know and I don’t know what to do
Not an expert but I'd expect it's likely flooded if you're having to resort to doing that. Rotary's don't easily clear being flooded due to the combustion chamber being essentially sealed from the environment unlike a piston engine which could have valves open when the engine is stopped to allow the excess fuel to evaporate out for the combustion chamber. If I was you I'd try to deflood the car. I would try taking the spark plugs out and drying them as best as possible. While the plugs are out you can hold the throttle open and crank so push any excess fuel out of the plug holes and exhaust. Make sure you disconnect the ignition fuse or coil during this to prevent an ignition source potentially causing a fire. if the car has an electric fuel pump it would be best to also turn that off if you can. Once you no longer see fuel spraying out of the spark plug holes you can add a tiny amount of 2 stroke oil into the holes with a syringe and reinstall the plugs. Reconnect the coil and attempt to start the car possibly with a bit of ether type starting fluid if it needs it. With any luck that should get it started. Keep it running until it's warm to make sure it's cleared the flooding and try not to shut it off while cold as that increases the odds of it flooding once again. Good luck.
@@gagesilveira6694 thanks for the tip but I’m not sure that’s what it is when we first pulled the plugs oil was on them checked the compression and it seemed to be good I’ll try it sometime but it sat for around 4 years it’s my grandpas but I’m trying to get it running he said before he parked it that it would randomly cut off I don’t know if it has to do anything with it but I’m not sure
I've got friends who have Anderson connectors and smart chargers for burnout cars to keep the battery healthy when the cars parked up for a while. They're only rated to 50 amps, but you can jump start a car through them if the battery isn't completely dead
Keep doing the computer stuff and the cad. It's nice to see the processes behind all of your ideas
the 3 different fueln tables are for idle, cruise, and top end. so they each need a little variance to optimize performance
Looking forward to learning more about the tuning when you figure it out. Spent my whole life thinking you need to buy a fancy haltec to make any power on the rx8
you vargas and kyle are my fav youtubers
Howdy RAD! I was curious if I could see if you have any parts I might need for my FB. I need a fuel level sender and right now my only real bet is buying a brand new one from Japan for like $90
You’ve been putting out some great content!! Amazing stuff man glad I can learn a lot from these !!
POS means something different to non-civil engineers ....
How do you make enough money to live off RUclips without sponsors?
"POS............positive..." lol
:)
That camera is cool. I like your blue flower Hawaiian shirt.
...It's still too close 🤣
While sub optimal, it is 100% on brand with the stated goal of the project 🙃
Dumb question, is there a goodish option for a transaxle for a 12a?
Good ish meaning cheap? Could try the old porsche transaxle and then an adapter. Or I know they make adapters to a VW transmission
@@RADPotential its a NA 12 that im trying to rebuild. so i need to have short is gear ratio. formula mazda is a thing thanks to dahm putting that on my radar as a not so cheap option but the best one for the twisties south of Martinsville. the end goal is like 80hp on a home made EFI i got to 3D print a intake manifold to use a small like D series throttle body from blox racing. i got enough cans to melt down to cast a okish alu intake manifold. ramblings aside its going to be like a tank car or like a old formula car from the 60s havent talked to my buddy on what he wants the chassis to be but its going to be mid engine. he wants to put the 12a in is toyota MRS and "im like nooooo.....but it does kinda look like a porche so we could use a VW trans" cause what doesnt have an adapter to the doom buggie is a shorter list. im the engineer, hes the mechanic. trying to agree on something is impossable.
Are you running a BOV? Are you not making enough boost to set off the bov? I wish you would have shown more engine bay shots so we could see it all finished up. I am fired up for the content! Keep it up!!
You mentioned you were a civil engineer. Are you a PE?
I like CAD
I wonder if we will ever get to the point where ecu's are as big as flash drives.
Love your content and respect your engineering, but dude! 7:09 you're dropping the battery right next to the exhaust! Catastrophic city! Please be careful, I my self have almost been blown to bits by my 88 fc which had a leaking fuel line over the exhuast muffler. Rotarys run soo hot, please be safe.
bros boutta drive across the country in a rx8
Please put a barrier between the positive battery terminal post and any metal near it. wouldn't want it to accidentally zap something.
Love it !!! Turbo Reny BBRRRAAAAP!!!
You should add another 90 degree bend or at least some angled pipe on the top of the exhaust and make it exit sideways. That’ll avoid water getting straight down your exhaust and into the turbo while it’s raining or driving in wet splashy terrain
Ill have to cut a bigger hole in the hood :(
Yo rad I'm so tempted to do this on my 8 till it dies lol, I'm loving the content keep it going
always show what your working on. keep it up eric.
No, I have the cheapest turbo rx8! Also it looks like you need to allow for the higher max load. Brettus has a thread on allowing for the full range above 105% max load.
Make a heatshield for the battery and def make a mount , it may feel heavy but momentum works really well at launching unsecured heavy stuff
Ill make a heatshield that is the mount (lightbulb!)
Smile present for sure.
More versatuner. I will be doing the same thing.
Im looking to import a left hand drive rx8 6port manual to New Zealand !
You should change the FPS you record at on the screen recording, it looks like you recorded at 15 FPS
wanna see how's the battery holding up!
@Rad Potential Seriously? There is 50 degrees of timing at cruise throttle??
Love from Greece ❤
what are your thoughts on running a air-cooled self oiled turbo to simplify the setup without any oil or coolant lines or oil drain ?
I wouldn't be opposed, just have to find one that is semi budget friendly
How much for the battery tray?
Rew rx8 next job🏆
The cuts to the bike while cutting the hood got me. Take your stupid like.
Where are you finding an RX8 for $500? I'm really wanting to pick one up for a project car, but in my area they're priced at like $4K minimum... Am I just not looking at the right sites?
Its all about finding somebody who doesn't know anything about them. I found a few non runners in the past couple weeks for around 1000 in decent shape
I need my Bridgeport rx8 tuned, and I have a SSV rattle, let me know if you're available, I'm not too far.
I disabled my ssv for my bridgeport. No more clicking, bigger braps.
Intersect the ssv line from the solinoid with a t piece. Run the new line to the vfad port on the intake. Put in a 1 way valve in this line so when full throttle you maintain vac from the inlet vac tank. No ssv now and it is kept open with constant vac. You will lose efficiency below 3000 rpm, but you have bridgeport so what does it matter. Not really noticeable.
I have a bridgeport map on versatuner forums that you can use for a base. Search 80HD.
Since pulled out fuel on the top end and havent uploaded that map. Way quicker. The uploaded map is still pretty rich.
@@noname-sd5dt can you make a video of the procedure?
Cannonball??
🔥🔥🔥🔥👍🏻