The Ten Principles of Rocket Stove Construction
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2021
- Larry Winiarski's Ten Rocket Stove Principles from a discussion on Stove Chat Live Episode 10.
Easy to follow Rocket Stove and Cook Stove plans available here:
walkerstoves.com/
Thanks for watching! 
Хобби
Thank you for always helping me on my building of a 8 inch batch mass heater stove and th se videos for clarification and encouragement.
Excellent. Thank You
Awesome video, thank you!
Can someone please repost to this comment section, or share a link to Dr. Winarski's article on these 10 principles discussed in this video?
Im not finding Mr Walker's link.
The link doesn't work anymore
Anyone got that link he posted in the chat?
Hey Matt - my friend is a missionary in Africa. There is quickly dwindling wood supply in the village he supports. They have very little waste to use to create rocket a stove with, and obviously no Home Depot to run to. What would you do to help them build j-stoves for (low fuel need and low smoke) cooking? I appreciate anything you can offer! Thanks for all you do for natural building.
Look into fire holes. You can dig a j shaped tunnel in the ground
Can a person build a pellet rocket stove from only 316Stainless Steel?
I'd you can build a small box around the burn chamber. Fill it with sand.
Anyone, I need your help. I did a stratification chamber Bell batch box rocket mass heater. Fire brick inside the stove, 16 by 16 by 3.5 concrete block walls to support flagstone seat benches/bells. The bottom line is I'm not getting a clean burn. I opened up the bench seat / Bell and there was tons of carbon, creosote, ect. My heat riser was in decent shape, my exhaust did have a jog in it because going out of the wall and then going up on the outside of the house as opposed to straight through the roof. I'm redoing the rocket stove. New barrel, new heat riser, new stove. Heat riser and stove consisting of ceramic fiberboard and a metal outside case. Because of the bad burn situation, I was contemplating going back to the 6-in duct work going through the bench seats. My concern is the weight if I pack it with cob. I really didn't want to have to do all that work to pack cob around the ductwork and add more weight. I'm already up to about 2,400 lb of material in a manufactured double-wide home with no additional floor support. The good news is the steel I beam is just below a major part of the rocket mass heater. Would it be a major difference to not have any cob in the bench seat and have the duct just radiate the heat to the flagstone above? This time I'm going to go straight through the roof with the exhaust chimney so that there's no sideways jog through the wall. I'm sure this will help. Or before I put the ductwork in, should I try sealing up the bench seat better with the stratification chamber idea to see if it is more airtight and burns more efficiently? Another thing to know is I was thinking about doing four runs per bench seat which would require eight elbows per bench seat for a total of 16 elbows. Would that be a bad idea? I thought I would be able to extract more heat from the duct and I have the room to put four vertical runs each side. What do you guys think?
Why don't you keep the duct work AND the flagstone "bell" bench but make a break in the duct work and force the hot gasses to double back through the bench to increase the path length
I realize your comment is 2 years ago so hopefully you got things resolved. For anyone following along, this is a good example of any heating system like this being TWO distinct parts- the combustion and the extraction/storage.
Creosote in the bell chamber indicates a combustion problem that will not be solved by any of the changes you’ve asked about. By the time the heated air hits the mass is should already be clean and have very little moisture.
Here's the one I built, I use water for my mass, couple of things I am doing now, (this weeks project actually),1: replacing the core because my homemade refractory fell apart, and 2: adding more coils in the heat riser for heating water faster:
ruclips.net/user/shortsWkhy5N7GV68?si=5UQfrOUBPc9A2kdZ
Always great information. I haven’t seen your stove talk lately. Are you still doing that?
In the last talk (stove chat) he said he’d stop for some time and will be focusing on extracting key information like this video from the previous shows
Cut refrigerators 6.5" longitudinally with plastic removed. Put your smoke path down the middle fill it with pearlite and open close the doors to regulate the heat. Not a cob mass with adobe propertys but not much weight either. Imlo.
i really like that idea.
3:01 why can't you eliminate the negative of it being soft by encasing it in surface bonding concrete???
Concrete isn't heat tolerant.
You could use furnace coating though
Has anyone got any great designs they have made
Batch box of Peter vandeberg plans online
@@mightyconker3903 can I see your design
I made a few.... I made inserts to burn many different fuels, sawdust ,wood , wood pellets, motor oil , any oil, kerosene.. it also has a cook top , and heats water at the same time ...
I will put up a link asap
Got that link?
Aircrete.
If aircrete involves masonry cement it will not hold up to the heat of the burn chamber. Masonry (Portland cement) will fracture.
Here's the result of homemade refractory using regular morter, clay, and pearlite, spoilers, it didn't work for long:
ruclips.net/video/wFLrhgPxoXk/видео.htmlsi=vFfTZg0ktxIBW6JO