Hello xrmte. That is awesome news! First things first... Take the head off. Check the inner top dome and see that there are no loose particles. Turn crank and see if all is smooth. If all is well then clean gasket off head and crank case very nicely then only place a thin layer of gasket maker and put the head back. For more info feel free to mail me @ ryno@ezeetrade.co.za Maybe I should make a video :-)
@@EZR they sent me a message saying the 32cc was just out of stock but they gove me good deal on a 29cc that was in stock so it should still be an awesome car
@@xrmte 29cc you can also remove gasket for better performance, but dont really have to check other stuff on it. They are pretty good quality. I run a 27.5 on my Rovan. Was a 29cc originally.
Hello there. Have just started watching your videos, you are doing a great job, we need videos like yours. I’m a bit confused about some of the comments stating that you should not break in a 2 stroke engine on full synthetic? What is your opinion? Also is it difficult installing a reverse mechanism. Look forward to your reply. By the way are you in Australia and if so which part. Cheers Rickie
Good day. Thank you so much for the support. I have not seen negative effects running a Baja from new on Fully Synth. That's all I use. I'm from South Africa. Free State
Hey decent video…. Quick question tho do these cars come with diff oil and shock absorber oils pre filled or do I need to strip and do this to my new kit which has just arrived? Thanks
Hello Drew Black. In our experience it is something that needs to be checked with every new car. Majority will not have shock oil and the diff doesn't hold oil well. Personally we do not use oil in our diffs. We use high heat bearing grease and pack the gears as much as needed for the application. Less for on-road and more for off-road. Far less diff rebuilds.
Ezeetrade it will take to long for the rings to seat I will usually do 10 start ups let it get warm just idling shut off and cool I use Blue Marble oil it’s amazing stuff I’ve tried every oil on the market nothing compares to it when using Synthetic it seems you will get more piston rub on the exhaust side of the cylinder
Hey, hoeveel petrol het jy gebruik vir die break in process op idle? Net 500ml? En kan mens daarna die car slowly begin ry op another full tank petrol of weer 500ml? Ek bly hier in China en werk hier. Ek het nou vir my en my broer 2 van die cars ge koop. Actually die exact same model. Dit is -20 tot -31 degrees hier. Het jy vir my enige tips asseblief? (Vir die ys koue weer!)
This was a couple of years ago for a customer. I have had many cars after this from Rovan and have not had any shock problems as they do the new Japan 8mm shocks now. But Diff i redo with Grease as soon as it starts sounding a bit rough 😃
@EZR ok sure thanks bud ur vids are very helpful and u as well thank u again is it ok if I mention in ur channel in my u tube channel tht helps for lots of ppl
Good Day, safe mode is set differently on each remote. I think the best would be to see if you can maybe find a Futaba video. The remote Kill switch should do the job above the receiver safe mode, but alwasy good to have back up savers.
Does anyone know if I need to install the shock and diff oil that it comes with? As I did have to do the filter soooo that made me think they're not for spares
Sometimes the shocks come empty so easy to check. But diff is difficult and should have oil already. I would say after 5x tanks of fuel strip the car and check the diff. I don't use oil, I use grease
@@EZR appreciate the feed back mate I gave it a quick run before I did crack a shock and it did have oil and decent rebound so I think I'm safe for now 😅 but I'll take that advice as I did the same with the grease in my outcast and it's worked like nothing else so far :)... I'm going to do that pull down as I think it's not a bad idea at all . I did a one over before I ran it but man did It pick up every loose piece of grass on that paddock solely where the pull start is ,😅
@@EZR I'll check them out.. looking like I'll be pulling it down now anyway... my fn uncle walked over and decided he wanted to manhandle the truck and slammed it to the ground something went crunch and now I'm paranoid something cracked...to say I'm pissed off would Be an under statement.. the rear bash plate isn't sitting right now and it's sagging to the right and the left hub carrier is wobbly as crap now...😤 I'm hoping it's fine but my mind is not going to let that go.... Thanks again mate 🫡
Hello Saya Yo. What we have found is that there are 2x reasons this can happen. 1) Engine has high compression 2) Technique There are new upgrade very strong Pullstarts available that we put on our high compression motors.
Can sum1 help me out please if bought 2 of these km001 and km002 brand new and 1 has a kill switch fitted but wont start at all the other 1 hasn't got a kill switch fitted started cut out and now wont start again can sum1 give me advice please I'm new to this
Good Day Darren. Most easiest fix - make sure the standard 2.4 remote has a failsafe setup, make sure it works and then remove the remote kill switch. But if you really want the remote kill switch to work you it will be too difficult to explain over YT. You will have to take it in to the hobby shop. Are you based in the States?
@@EZR no I'm in the uk it has a standard kill switch on it the 1 ya get with it when it comes outa the box and the 1 that has a kill switch I fitted I noticed last night it didnt have a spark so iv unconnected it and put the stock 1 back on that's the km001 But the km002 I haven't fitted a kill switch on it yet can you tell me the carb settings for the high low and idle screw please as when I got it it started then cut out and wont start back up and I messed with the carb settings can u tell me them please these are 4 days out of the box and cant get them going yet
@@darrenroberts4568 I thought it was the remote kill switch. If the standard kill switch gives issues then its best just to replace. They very inexpensive. Carb settings are H-1½ & L-1¼ with your idle screw turned in all the way.
@@EZR when I bought the cars I bought the package were you got the kill switches with them but there not fitted I fitted 1 but never tried starting it that's the km001my sons 1 I liked the car so bought the km002 the next day for my self I didnt fit the kill switch on km002 just the stock press button 1 on the engine Tried starting mine the km002 it started then cut out so i tried the km001 and his wouldn't start last night I realised it never had a spark so I unconnected the kill switch that I fitted and now it has a spark now both cars have the stock button kill switch on the engine am gunna try n start them in a min thank you for your help I'll let ya know if they start
@@chucksprinkle1328 Hey, I'm wondering if I should get one, and I'd like to know all there is to know when getting a brand new gas rc. I wanna get the 30.5cc I'm saving up but in the meantime I'm trying to find out how to break it in, what to usé and what to check. Could you maybe tell me a couple things I should or shouldn't do?
Synthetic is the best for your motor. The 2-Stroke racing bikes also use 100% synthetic. I run nothing else than Castrol Power1 30:1 and have never had motor or fuel line issues. Non synthetic doesn't burn up as well and clogs your plug.
I have been using true fuel for 3 years in my buggy as well as my airplanes.which is synthetic oil..no problems.if you use ethanol gas from the pump that's where down the road you will have issues
Been using synthetic in my buggy and airplane for years...never had a problem....if you say ruins carb. You must be doing something wrong!! Also use truefuel..no ethanol..the ethanol is what causes problems!!
You will never ever ever truely break in a two stroke buggy motor with full synthetic oil. It is imperative to use 100% mineral oil, using 100% mineral oil is the absolute only way your piston ring can truely mate correctly with the bore.
Hello steve G. I can't say that there is a industry standard but personally I run 40ml oil to 1lt fuel from new to old. But I run Castor based oil for the first tank then Ester based oil thereafter.
I appreciate your trying to help people mate but you are not. Fully synthetic oil is a no go for break in I encourage you to actually look into what you are trying to achieve when breaking in a engine, 100% mineral oil only up to 5 tanks, I generally burn 3 then switch over to fully synthetic.
Thanks mate. Will check it out. As for the 5 tanks, most of my customers only get up to 5 tanks on a car before they break or sell it. Just for fun we also did performance test on a 32cc and drove the hell out of it from brand new. There was no visible performance difference and that motor ran in our company car for a lot more than 10 tanks before we sold it.
Boy, there's a lot of professionals on your comments! Thanks for sharing!
Pleasure man. May the hobby grow!
Awesome video and how to break in the car and setup the endpoints. That’s a nice service you do. The customer truly receives a ready to run vehicle.
Our pleasure!
Just ordered a rovan 32cc can't wait to get it
Hello xrmte. That is awesome news! First things first... Take the head off.
Check the inner top dome and see that there are no loose particles. Turn crank and see if all is smooth. If all is well then clean gasket off head and crank case very nicely then only place a thin layer of gasket maker and put the head back. For more info feel free to mail me @ ryno@ezeetrade.co.za
Maybe I should make a video :-)
@@EZR they sent me a message saying the 32cc was just out of stock but they gove me good deal on a 29cc that was in stock so it should still be an awesome car
@@xrmte 29cc you can also remove gasket for better performance, but dont really have to check other stuff on it. They are pretty good quality. I run a 27.5 on my Rovan. Was a 29cc originally.
Nice and that 32cc Rovan engine runs out pretty good, same engine I've ran for over 2 years in my Rovan LT320 truck. Great video
any tips on tuning i cant seem to get it?
got rovan 32cc to?
@@hakopakite8644 what exactly is it doing? Starting issues?, idle issues?,
Rc Dungeon i cant seem to get the H needle right is blowing smoke or when i hold the throttle flat when it hits peak rpm it sounds pingy
i ether go to rich or to lean🤦🏼
The one pull start you got, it's because you stopped the engine before you ran out of gas earlier. Nice video and very clear.
Thanks man
These things are great . Love my 36cc 👍
We just finished a job on the new Rovan 360DR and cant wait to post the video.
@@EZR really looking forward to it man 👍
Hello there. Have just started watching your videos, you are doing a great job, we need videos like yours. I’m a bit confused about some of the comments stating that you should not break in a 2 stroke engine on full synthetic? What is your opinion? Also is it difficult installing a reverse mechanism. Look forward to your reply. By the way are you in Australia and if so which part. Cheers Rickie
Good day. Thank you so much for the support.
I have not seen negative effects running a Baja from new on Fully Synth. That's all I use.
I'm from South Africa. Free State
South African 🇿🇦👍
North Korean 🇨🇦👍
Howzit! Lekker warm
Hi I like your car I would ask you do I need break every time before run or just first time when you bought new one hope you will answer
Just the first time. It sets the ring to the sleeve shape and then its done. Have to do it again if you change the ring.
@@EZR thanks mate
Good video mate, keep up the good work!
Thanks man. More coming
Great video mate!!
Thanks you!
Hi good video just wondering if the plastic windscreen and side one's cause over heating problems ?
No maybe if you drive for 2 hours strayt but it doesnt
You can drill some holes at the windscreen.
Not at all. So much air still gets in
Puppies are real 😂
But we all know birds aren’t real😂
Funny dogs
Hey man was wondering can you bring these mad things on the beach
Hello, yes you definitely can. Check this video out: ruclips.net/video/Ma8Bb242dYc/видео.html
Hey decent video…. Quick question tho do these cars come with diff oil and shock absorber oils pre filled or do I need to strip and do this to my new kit which has just arrived? Thanks
Hello Drew Black. In our experience it is something that needs to be checked with every new car. Majority will not have shock oil and the diff doesn't hold oil well. Personally we do not use oil in our diffs. We use high heat bearing grease and pack the gears as much as needed for the application. Less for on-road and more for off-road. Far less diff rebuilds.
Never break in a engine with synthetic I’ve been building engines for 30 years run at least 5 tanks before switching to synthetic
Hello Chuck. Thank you so much for the comment. What is the reason for this?
Ezeetrade it will take to long for the rings to seat I will usually do 10 start ups let it get warm just idling shut off and cool I use Blue Marble oil it’s amazing stuff I’ve tried every oil on the market nothing compares to it when using Synthetic it seems you will get more piston rub on the exhaust side of the cylinder
Chuck Sprinkle hey could u tell me more about this ive got just a 32cc rovan im about to run it in but want to do it probably
What would you like to know
Chuck Sprinkle just ran my rovan in having trouble with tuning it any help?
Hey, hoeveel petrol het jy gebruik vir die break in process op idle? Net 500ml? En kan mens daarna die car slowly begin ry op another full tank petrol of weer 500ml? Ek bly hier in China en werk hier. Ek het nou vir my en my broer 2 van die cars ge koop. Actually die exact same model. Dit is -20 tot -31 degrees hier. Het jy vir my enige tips asseblief? (Vir die ys koue weer!)
Yeah about 500ml. So 2lt will break in the motor
Did you check the shock oil and diff oil levels before you ran it ?
No i did not. It was assumed that the factory does this but have learned in the interim that it is a good thing to check.
@@EZR thanks man think they just say it in case of leeks during delivery.
Is your rc still doing OK?
This was a couple of years ago for a customer. I have had many cars after this from Rovan and have not had any shock problems as they do the new Japan 8mm shocks now. But Diff i redo with Grease as soon as it starts sounding a bit rough 😃
Oh no 😢 I broke In my engine with regular way of mixing 😢 so does this gonna make my engine worn out early
Did you use 25:1 (40ml oil to 1litre fuel)? and what oil did you use?
@EZR yes I did dynamite 2stroke oil 5 litres I used 90ml of oil
You need 200ml oil in 5litres of fuel
@EZR ok sure thanks bud ur vids are very helpful and u as well thank u again is it ok if I mention in ur channel in my u tube channel tht helps for lots of ppl
I just upgrade my radio and reciver! How can I put safemode back on? I have kill switch. Do I still need that safemode? Radio is Futabi!
Good Day, safe mode is set differently on each remote. I think the best would be to see if you can maybe find a Futaba video. The remote Kill switch should do the job above the receiver safe mode, but alwasy good to have back up savers.
Does anyone know if I need to install the shock and diff oil that it comes with? As I did have to do the filter soooo that made me think they're not for spares
Sometimes the shocks come empty so easy to check. But diff is difficult and should have oil already.
I would say after 5x tanks of fuel strip the car and check the diff. I don't use oil, I use grease
@@EZR appreciate the feed back mate I gave it a quick run before I did crack a shock and it did have oil and decent rebound so I think I'm safe for now 😅 but I'll take that advice as I did the same with the grease in my outcast and it's worked like nothing else so far :)... I'm going to do that pull down as I think it's not a bad idea at all . I did a one over before I ran it but man did It pick up every loose piece of grass on that paddock solely where the pull start is ,😅
You need some outerwear crank and pullstart covers
@@EZR I'll check them out.. looking like I'll be pulling it down now anyway... my fn uncle walked over and decided he wanted to manhandle the truck and slammed it to the ground something went crunch and now I'm paranoid something cracked...to say I'm pissed off would Be an under statement.. the rear bash plate isn't sitting right now and it's sagging to the right and the left hub carrier is wobbly as crap now...😤 I'm hoping it's fine but my mind is not going to let that go....
Thanks again mate 🫡
I'm hoping Its just play in parts but yeh... dick move on his part 😆
At 18:18 dogs are going crazy😂🤣
😂 Yeah, they weren't sure if they should bite or run... 🏎️🐕🐕🐕
My new baja broke 3 pullstart.. What must i do sir?
Hello Saya Yo. What we have found is that there are 2x reasons this can happen.
1) Engine has high compression
2) Technique
There are new upgrade very strong Pullstarts available that we put on our high compression motors.
Before pulling it over make sure you have all of the slack out of the rope and don’t pull it out too far
Can sum1 help me out please if bought 2 of these km001 and km002 brand new and 1 has a kill switch fitted but wont start at all the other 1 hasn't got a kill switch fitted started cut out and now wont start again can sum1 give me advice please I'm new to this
Good Day Darren. Most easiest fix - make sure the standard 2.4 remote has a failsafe setup, make sure it works and then remove the remote kill switch.
But if you really want the remote kill switch to work you it will be too difficult to explain over YT.
You will have to take it in to the hobby shop. Are you based in the States?
@@EZR no I'm in the uk it has a standard kill switch on it the 1 ya get with it when it comes outa the box and the 1 that has a kill switch I fitted I noticed last night it didnt have a spark so iv unconnected it and put the stock 1 back on that's the km001
But the km002 I haven't fitted a kill switch on it yet can you tell me the carb settings for the high low and idle screw please as when I got it it started then cut out and wont start back up and I messed with the carb settings can u tell me them please these are 4 days out of the box and cant get them going yet
@@darrenroberts4568 I thought it was the remote kill switch. If the standard kill switch gives issues then its best just to replace. They very inexpensive.
Carb settings are H-1½ & L-1¼ with your idle screw turned in all the way.
@@EZR when I bought the cars I bought the package were you got the kill switches with them but there not fitted I fitted 1 but never tried starting it that's the km001my sons 1
I liked the car so bought the km002 the next day for my self I didnt fit the kill switch on km002 just the stock press button 1 on the engine
Tried starting mine the km002 it started then cut out
so i tried the km001 and his wouldn't start last night I realised it never had a spark so I unconnected the kill switch that I fitted and now it has a spark
now both cars have the stock button kill switch on the engine am gunna try n start them in a min thank you for your help I'll let ya know if they start
You are South African a you can hear it in your voice
Yes I am 😁 and loving it!
@@EZR me to im south African to
I have a Rovan 45 cc that can need some help can you help me
Gshock 215 How can we help? Do you maybe wanna mail me? ryno@(mychannelname).co.za
What kind of problems are you having I’ve been doing this for 30 years
@@chucksprinkle1328 Hey, I'm wondering if I should get one, and I'd like to know all there is to know when getting a brand new gas rc. I wanna get the 30.5cc I'm saving up but in the meantime I'm trying to find out how to break it in, what to usé and what to check. Could you maybe tell me a couple things I should or shouldn't do?
you from south africa?
Hello - Yes we are. Online store based in JHB. You?
@@EZR oh im cpt listen can you gimme ur instagram or something i need your number to ask alot of questions about the baja
Please
@@miki-chan2573 Check out www.ezeetrade.co.za - all our contact details are there. Regards
Hello can you help me I bought this remote and kit rc car
Hello Zain Ali what do you need help with?
This car remote only remote and receiver
@@EZR remote and receiver
@@azmultivideos9815 It will be difficult for us to give detailed info on this platform, but perhaps you can send us a email? ryno@ezeetrade.co.za
Yes
No wheelie bar or pipe protector
Nah, wouldn't need one yet. We've played around with quite a few motors and I think you won't need a wheelie bar on a motor that cost less than $450
Need help pls ?????
Give us a shout! Whazzup?
why are you using synthetic? synthetic oil and fuel is not good for your rc , it damges your fuel line and your motor and screws up the carby
Synthetic is the best for your motor. The 2-Stroke racing bikes also use 100% synthetic. I run nothing else than Castrol Power1 30:1 and have never had motor or fuel line issues. Non synthetic doesn't burn up as well and clogs your plug.
I have been using true fuel for 3 years in my buggy as well as my airplanes.which is synthetic oil..no problems.if you use ethanol gas from the pump that's where down the road you will have issues
Unfortunately we don't have that here is sunny South Africa but maybe I must see if there is something like it.
Synthetic is by far the best to use. Especially when breaking the motor in.
Been using synthetic in my buggy and airplane for years...never had a problem....if you say ruins carb. You must be doing something wrong!! Also use truefuel..no ethanol..the ethanol is what causes problems!!
You will never ever ever truely break in a two stroke buggy motor with full synthetic oil. It is imperative to use 100% mineral oil, using 100% mineral oil is the absolute only way your piston ring can truely mate correctly with the bore.
Thanks for the info
How many ml for 1 L for brand new engine ?
Hello steve G. I can't say that there is a industry standard but personally I run 40ml oil to 1lt fuel from new to old. But I run Castor based oil for the first tank then Ester based oil thereafter.
I appreciate your trying to help people mate but you are not. Fully synthetic oil is a no go for break in I encourage you to actually look into what you are trying to achieve when breaking in a engine, 100% mineral oil only up to 5 tanks, I generally burn 3 then switch over to fully synthetic.
Thanks mate. Will check it out. As for the 5 tanks, most of my customers only get up to 5 tanks on a car before they break or sell it. Just for fun we also did performance test on a 32cc and drove the hell out of it from brand new. There was no visible performance difference and that motor ran in our company car for a lot more than 10 tanks before we sold it.
People still playing with these slugs? Why? Slow noisy junk! Haha
More play time - Less cost. What are you playing with?