I enjoyed this episode. I liked the simplicity of it - only average DIY skills required. As much as I admire more complicated joinery, I'm starting to like the idea of dowel joinery for projects like this. Thanks for sharing Colin.
Thanks for the video! It was very fun to watch! I must say that I prefer to see you perform the cuts on the table saw, but it'll stay even if you prefer not to. The Dowelmax is amazing, I switched to it completely once I got it.
Barn Door Look! How did you know the theme of the inside of my shop? I have a sliding barn door between the office/mancave of my new shop and the Wood Shop area of my new shop building, and I am preparing to build my workbenches, cabinets, and drawers. You just gave me the idea of the look of the entire workshop area.. How Awesome this is going to look. You sold me on the dowling jig and it is sitting here next to me as I write and I am so excited to use it for the first time. Thank You! 😄😄😄 Lowell
I'd love to know more about how you re-sawed the fence boards on your table saw. Do you have a video about that? I have old barn boards I salvaged ... I've been planing them down to get them to a usable thickness. Your way might allow me to use both sides of board. At the very least it would be a lot easier on my equipment and create less dust!
Colin leave the knot hole, that's a very nice cabinet I do understand about the peice in the middle of the cabinet I have 2 cabinets like that if I need something it's always behind that peice that I spend 5 minutes emptying the shelf then another 5 minutes putting what I took out back
Colin, this is a wonderful video. I have access to old fence material so I plan on making two of these cabinets. I have never made a cabinet before. I am wondering if to what thickness did you resaw the fence board down to? Thanks so much and I continue to to really enjoy and learn from your videos. Thank you.
Thanks so much! After looking at the video three more times it does lot like you routered the frames to about half depth so that would be close to 3/8” then resaw to the boards to the same. Many of the fence boards here in the Northwest cup badly so I will have to really pick through them. Thanks again for the video and taking the time to respond. Great cabinet doors!!
I like the look of the door panels -- I'll have to keep an eye out for used fence boards. I did find it odd that your cabinet top and bottom extend to the outside of the sides rather than having them within the sides. This is not typical -- was there a reason for doing it this way?
Colin, I am ordering a Dowelmax today along with some dowels. What length and diameter dowels did you use on this beautiful build? Also what material did you use for the door frames? Thank you so much for your response. Bill
I had the same issue a few years ago, painted reclaimed lumber. I disconnected my thickness planer from my dust collector then replaced the planer blades with an old set. I moved my planer outside and hooked it up to my shop vac. Worked like a charm. I started off trying to sand the paint off and thought that there must be an easier process. That’s when I came up with the old planer blade solution. For the edges, I just cut them off with a ripping blade on the table saw then disposed of them.
Reclaimed wood can be tedious and dangerous to use, as you say, some of it contains lead, which you don't want to get air bourne in your shop. Also paint that is latex is very abrasive and hard to remove, running it though a jointer or planer will dull the blades quickly. I try and avoid wood with paint on it unless it's super nice wood and in some cases have used eco friendly paint remover which worked ok
If you set a backset mark or make a gauge you dont have to router or machine the whole length of the style and rail therefore you wont see the dado on edge of the lengths
Nice work. Perhaps an epoxy resin to cover the hole. Could make it black to be inconspicuous or bright blue/green/yellow if you want to feature it more!
that is the 3M sander with 3M Xtract sanding discs, easily the best I have ever used, quick, does a great job ... not inexpensive but for me worth it for a dust free workshop
Colin, with the top being supported by the French cleat stretcher, would it not have been stronger to have had the top and bottom within the sides? The dowels would then be horizontal and support the weight of the cabinet better? (I realise that with the strength of the glue this probably doesn't matter that much).
They are called a few things, hidden hinges, Euro Hinges (where they were first invented I believe) Blum (blumotion) hinges, overlay hinges, and probably some I don't know :)
@@knecht105 thank you Colin! As a European I always took these hinges for granted and was surprised that they got named European hinges overseas, and not the far more complex mechanism we have in our windows that enable one to open or tilt a window pane. You can easily find it if you search for _German window_ here on YT, but they're common all over the continent now.
I enjoyed this episode. I liked the simplicity of it - only average DIY skills required. As much as I admire more complicated joinery, I'm starting to like the idea of dowel joinery for projects like this. Thanks for sharing Colin.
Very nice work Colin & that cabinet turned out looking great! 👍👍🔨🔨
Your cabinet looks very nice. Good job.
Thank you!
Thanks Colin. I love this build.Thanks for all the work you put in to educate others
That's a beautiful cabinet Collin! 😊 And thank you very much for the joinery and finishing tips. I always look forward to your next video! 😊😊😊❤❤❤
Thanks Gary
Colin, this cabinet is beautiful, leave the knot hole alone, the old wood really makes the cabinet.
perfect, thanks for the note ... will do
I’m just happy seeing you be happy.
It’s contagious.
Also, I like the door panels.
Thanks buddy !!
Thank you!
Good looking bit of recycling Colin,turned out very well👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
Thanks Alan !!
Thanks for the video! It was very fun to watch!
I must say that I prefer to see you perform the cuts on the table saw, but it'll stay even if you prefer not to.
The Dowelmax is amazing, I switched to it completely once I got it.
Простой, доступный для новичков шкаф. Молодец
Спасибо
Really beautiful work, Colin! It turned out amazing! 😃
Thanks for all the tips there!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for your comment
I like the knot.
think I will just leave it alone ... thanks for commenting
beatiful work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautiful! Leave the hole whole...
Perfect ... will do, thanks
Great video looks awesome..🤘🤘🤘
Thanks 👍
thank you
You're welcome
I thoroughly enjoy your presentations and useful tips thank you Ken (UK)
Looks great.
I personally love these laminated pine panels, they are great if you don't have planers or a large panel drum sander, plus they save time
That looks great 👍
thanks
I vote to Leave the hole it gives it unique character.
Ok, most people have said the same, thanks, will do
I love it. I enjoy all your videos.
thanks
Barn Door Look! How did you know the theme of the inside of my shop? I have a sliding barn door between the office/mancave of my new shop and the Wood Shop area of my new shop building, and I am preparing to build my workbenches, cabinets, and drawers. You just gave me the idea of the look of the entire workshop area.. How Awesome this is going to look. You sold me on the dowling jig and it is sitting here next to me as I write and I am so excited to use it for the first time.
Thank You! 😄😄😄
Lowell
Thanks for the note Lowell, I love the barn wood look, going to do more of it :)
I'd love to know more about how you re-sawed the fence boards on your table saw. Do you have a video about that? I have old barn boards I salvaged ... I've been planing them down to get them to a usable thickness. Your way might allow me to use both sides of board. At the very least it would be a lot easier on my equipment and create less dust!
Hmmm ... thanks for comment, I have made a note, maybe combine this with some other odds and ends things that people ask about
Well done, Colin! Lovely cabinet even if it's just a shop cabinet. 😅😅😅
Thanks Jim
Very nice. What was the resaw method you were doing on the table saw?
Colin leave the knot hole, that's a very nice cabinet I do understand about the peice in the middle of the cabinet I have 2 cabinets like that if I need something it's always behind that peice that I spend 5 minutes emptying the shelf then another 5 minutes putting what I took out back
Thanks Alan for commenting
I before e except after c
Thanks for the video, did you dado the whole length of boards
No, just the inside of the door frame, just easier that way
Colin, this is a wonderful video. I have access to old fence material so I plan on making two of these cabinets. I have never made a cabinet before. I am wondering if to what thickness did you resaw the fence board down to? Thanks so much and I continue to to really enjoy and learn from your videos. Thank you.
I think mine were about 3/8th, but it depends a bit on the condition of the boards you are working with
Thanks so much! After looking at the video three more times it does lot like you routered the frames to about half depth so that would be close to 3/8” then resaw to the boards to the same. Many of the fence boards here in the Northwest cup badly so I will have to really pick through them. Thanks again for the video and taking the time to respond. Great cabinet doors!!
I like the look of the door panels -- I'll have to keep an eye out for used fence boards. I did find it odd that your cabinet top and bottom extend to the outside of the sides rather than having them within the sides. This is not typical -- was there a reason for doing it this way?
Colin, I am ordering a Dowelmax today along with some dowels. What length and diameter dowels did you use on this beautiful build? Also what material did you use for the door frames? Thank you so much for your response. Bill
Any thoughts on old reclaimed lumber with lead paint? Is it safe to run through a thickness planer. Love your advice and videos
I had the same issue a few years ago, painted reclaimed lumber. I disconnected my thickness planer from my dust collector then replaced the planer blades with an old set. I moved my planer outside and hooked it up to my shop vac. Worked like a charm. I started off trying to sand the paint off and thought that there must be an easier process. That’s when I came up with the old planer blade solution. For the edges, I just cut them off with a ripping blade on the table saw then disposed of them.
Reclaimed wood can be tedious and dangerous to use, as you say, some of it contains lead, which you don't want to get air bourne in your shop. Also paint that is latex is very abrasive and hard to remove, running it though a jointer or planer will dull the blades quickly. I try and avoid wood with paint on it unless it's super nice wood and in some cases have used eco friendly paint remover which worked ok
Very nice looking….leave the hole, looks more natural.
Thanks, will do!
When you cut the dado for the back panel, did you cut all the way through? Wouldn’t you see the cut from the side?
If you set a backset mark or make a gauge you dont have to router or machine the whole length of the style and rail therefore you wont see the dado on edge of the lengths
Nice cabinet Colin. Leave the knot hole alone. It adds character like the nail holes & weathered rust.
Great, thanks, will leave as is
Cool
Thank you
Nice work. Perhaps an epoxy resin to cover the hole. Could make it black to be inconspicuous or bright blue/green/yellow if you want to feature it more!
Hmm ... good idea on the resin, might try that some time
What’s the sander you’re using. Seems there are several models??
that is the 3M sander with 3M Xtract sanding discs, easily the best I have ever used, quick, does a great job ... not inexpensive but for me worth it for a dust free workshop
Do you have a link for the dowel jig you used?
sure ... dowelmax.com
What bit did he use?
that is an adjustable rabbeting bit in the router
Is your doweling tool listed in your store?? Sorry if I missed it 🤷♂️
No, you can get from Rockler or direct from manufacturer at dowelmax.com
It looks like the right door has drooped a little. Nice video though.
Hmmm ... it does, there is a small adjustment for that, thanks will check it
👍👍👍👍
Colin, with the top being supported by the French cleat stretcher, would it not have been stronger to have had the top and bottom within the sides? The dowels would then be horizontal and support the weight of the cabinet better? (I realise that with the strength of the glue this probably doesn't matter that much).
Having watched to the end now, it's fantastic. Amazing how much lighter it is with the white back board. I would just leave the knot hole as it is.
Yes, I saw that after and yes, you are probably correct about that orientation being stronger the other way :)
can an American explain to me why you guys call these hinges European?
They are called a few things, hidden hinges, Euro Hinges (where they were first invented I believe) Blum (blumotion) hinges, overlay hinges, and probably some I don't know :)
@@knecht105 thank you Colin! As a European I always took these hinges for granted and was surprised that they got named European hinges overseas, and not the far more complex mechanism we have in our windows that enable one to open or tilt a window pane. You can easily find it if you search for _German window_ here on YT, but they're common all over the continent now.