How To Break Your Bouldering Plateau
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- If you’ve been climbing or bouldering for a little while and you want to push your climbing to the next level, or you’re a beginner climber and want to build a foundation of good climbing techniques, this coaching session with Xian Goh may come in handy.
Hannah and special guest Xian, who you may recognise from her appearances on the Bouldering Bobat channel, spent a session at The Climbing Hangar in Reading, looking at how to improve climbing movement with technique drills through a full coaching session.
The aim of the coaching session was to build a toolkit for breaking a climbing plateau, as Hannah and lots of climbers find themselves in as they progress through their climbing life. I learned so much and I hope you do too.
00:20 Introduction
01:00 Bouldering Session Plan
01:50 Movement Assessment with Climbing Coach Xian
05:04 Xian Breakdown Climbing Strengths and Weaknesses
08:00 Movement Drills for Climbing With One Foothold
19:35 Practical Application On The Bouldering Wall
20:58 Bouldering Project
28:20 Session Summary
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Can we get more videos with Xian??! She’s such a great instructor and I feel lots of points she made, I can also apply those to my climbing, especially excessive pulling. Thank you Hannah for these always wonderful videos!!! ❤
hey Hannah! I have watched and enjoyed so many of your videos but this one is truly a CUT ABOVE. I was genuinely open-mouthed watching Xian break down your movement and so clearly demonstrate pathways to improvement through seemingly small changes. I genuinely am in awe ! Please get Xian on again!
Wow thank you so much! Totally agree, Xian’s coaching is next level and I can already tell there’ll be improvements in my movement patterns from her coaching tips during the session 🫶
Xian has a very good eye for movement! This was amazing to watch. Top notch coaching 🔥
Xian is so great at breaking down complex movement into smaller, digestible, chunks. Thanks Hannah for the video! and thanks Xian for the coaching! Super useful.
I absolutely love Xian's observational breakdown and understanding of movement. As usual I learned something unique that I think will directly impact my own climbing, Hannah you really have a knack for that kind of content!
Also Xian is fun and you guys really interact well. I'd love to see her more if possible!
Love the breakdown by Xian on your movement - so cool to see the full session play out
I absolutely love her teaching style, she‘s amazing!!
She is! Great teacher and coach and wonderful at taking an overall view at what will improve a climber! 🤗
So much great information and feedback from Xian. Definitely shows how important it is to learn proper flagging, smearing etc. Thanks for sharing with us Hannah.
Glad you found the video informative. I found the session with Xian really insightful and I’m really looking forward to implementing her movement tips in my climbing over the next little while!!🫶
And hips square climbing and where to apply it properly and efficient.
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Great to see Xian on your channel! I always marvel at how fluid her climbing is, so it's fascinating to see her breaking things down analysing all the movements so precisely.
Climbed at the hangar this evening and have realised this movement was the exact problem I was having with pretty much every climb I got stuck on! Amazing vid and loved the really detailed coaching on one movement
Lovely and informative video! Especially liked the "low willpower" concept. So refreshing! Especially considering that the self-help industry relies heavily on the "willpower" concept!
I love Xian's coaching! She's amazing. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you for sharing 🙏🏽 ❤
Glad you enjoyed it!
honestly...i m always happy to see Hannah"s content...great for uplifting...
keep up the spirit Hannah and keep creating good content💪💪💪
Thank you so much!! It really means the world to me 🫶
I just found your channel a few days ago and have been going through all your content. I've never even tried climbing before but I have been fascinated! Thank you for all the great content! I'm thinking of visiting a climbing gym in my area soon! :)
Thanks amazing, welcome! I really hope you love climbing as much as I do if you do end up trying it out. It’s such a great sport - you’re very welcome for the content. ☺️
Hey I hope you do try climbing! I'm so grateful I did...(and Hannah's channel is one of the ones that has made an actual impact on my own skills, so definitely keep watching!) 😊
Best video about climbing technique in my life! I have some issues with the movement, that don't let me to improve. I stuck on v5 (sometimes v6) for almost three years. Also, i gained some bad climbing habits. I simply jamp to the next hold instead of thinking about the line of movement. So, I got used to rely on forse. I started to work on it, and now I feel, that I'm improving.
BTW, now I see, that it's a very common problem. Especially, many strong (and long) guys have the same issues. So, sometimes I can observe a paradox: a tall guy can't reach a hold, which 5'5 people take with ease.
P.S. Thank a lot Hannah and Xian and sorry for my mistakes. English is not my first.
It's amazing how you always find people so good in giving advice and understanding climbing movement! This was really cool :)
🤯🤯🤯
Her tips were so great!
I wish I lived closer to schedule a session 😢
Great video, congratulations to both of you ❤
Xian seems to be such a great coach. 👍
Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot.
Yessssss Xian!!!!!! One of the greatest!!
She's great :)
When Xian leveled her hips in that first demonstration my jaw dropped. It seems so obvious in hindsight but I struggle with this all the time!
One of my fav coaching videos on your channel so far! This was super helpful. Great work to both you and Xian!
That’s so great to hear, I’m really glad you enjoyed it ☺️
I watched your video while having dinner after my climbing session. I must say It made want to go climbing right now and try Xian Goh's pieces of advice. The way she breaks down movement is amazing. Congrats on your content, it's getting better and better!
Great video. This is something I've been struggling with too. It's fun to see you improve so quickly. Xian is a very good teacher and really gets movement.
Xian is a really great coach, immediately read my strengths and weaknesses and was really good at explaining improvements ☺️
Glad to see Xian on this channel!
Hannah, I just started the video, but thank you for making awesome content :) I love seeing new videos pop up from you
That’s so great to hear, thanks!!🤩
please have Xian back on the channel!! i feel i learned so much from her breakdowns!
I would love to! Hopefully soon 🥹
Super insightful as always. Love the channel Hannah!
I love these coaching videos so much. Even though these are personalized to you, the general principles to try to get the most out of tbe different techniques have been immensely helpful.
I've found this video really helpful since seeing a few weeks ago, it brought some more awareness into what I'm doing with my hips what a great coach to have on. Many thanks 😊
That’s great to hear! Thanks for your comment 🤩
Like your vids! Keep it chill!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching 🤘
Xian was always my favorite bobat!
wow love this video! I am going to try out those tips in the next session.
Hope they come in handy!
Thank you Hannah and Xian for the great content! I've definitely learned a few things here. However, while watching I constantly find myself hoping that the camera could be facing more towards the wall instead of being from this steep side angle that barely shows the movement of the hips across the wall, especially for the last sent that Hannah did, I could barley see any movements (e.g. how far the reach was)... 😢 I think it would be incredibly helpful to have shots from a variety of angles. 🙏 Thank you Hannah and keep up the good work!
Wow, I make the same mistake myself and that was SO helpful; I'll try out Xian's suggestions next time I go bouldering. Thanks for another great video Hannah :D
Great consultation + great student. Nice video, thx 😊
Glad you liked it 👍
Great input from Xian. You always create such fab content to take away and try on the wall. Super helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment 🧡
This was so interesting !!
I love your videos!! Very helpful for beginner climbers. Thanks a lot!
Glad you like them!
Hi hannah great vídeo! One Thing i noticed on the last move that usually helps me with this kind of stuff is If you straithen ur right hanging leg a bit more to the right It Will Twist tour hips more into the under cling rather than If u Just keep It paralel to ur body
That also introduções a downward drag from the Rubber of the shoes that helps u stabilizes and reach the hold more controled
Wow! That was truly insightful. I'm gonna test some out on my next climb.
Have fun! 💪
Wow this is a mega input for me! I have to try it all! Thank you sooo much! ❤
You are so welcome!
I have the impression that sometimes the more "technique" one learns (I am talking at beginner/intermediate level) the more one is prone to overthinking and forgetting what is the most instinctual way of simply climbing a wall/line. There were instances like at 8.20 where Xian is showing the simpler way of making the move, while Hanna's twist seems to be sort of "forced". I do the same and I go by phases; the current one for me is the drop knee phase...every. single. time. ahahaha
About 8 minutes into the video and caught myself thinking how it's funny with rock climbing how sometimes your bad habbits in terms of technique can end up in long term helping you out because even if you do the inefficent movement, if you keep doing it and getting stronger and stronger in it and it's like a great training move generally useful in a lot of climbing overall, in the end it can still kinda work out aye :D
It’s so true! I feel like the whole time I’ve been bouldering I’ve always climbed SO slowly, and relatively inefficiently, but now that I’ve been climbing that way for a long time and learning new ways to climb effectively I can make use of the lock off strength and endurance that slow climbing has kept giving me. 🤩
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I have had a similar experience but with different aspects of climbing! Lack of endurance and finger strength have forced me to try all kinds of things to take weight off of my fingers, and as a result my technique has developed rapidly and people often compliment my creativity when I keep finding new things to try on a boulder I'm too weak to climb the intended way.
Xian is brilliant!!
She is ☺️☺️
i remember seeing xian often in biscuit factory about 7/8 years ago.
she's been strong even way back. her old style was what i'd describe as ballerina on walls, but i guess she's going comp style nowadays
🗽I always enjoy technical lessons, in order to check my own techniques and thinking. 👍👍
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Good to hear!
Great video, thanks! Although I think the last climb should have been filmed from the same angle as the other takes. We couldn't really see what you did differently to finally send the route.
Hi Hannah, I’ve enjoyed watching your improvement videos! They’re very helpful.
I’m not sure if this is something you’d be interested in doing on your channel, or if it’s something you’ve already done, but nutrition and rest are equally as important as the techniques and drills showcased in these improvement/training videos. It would be great to see you do a video on nutrition and rest. It would help a lot of people, as I know it helped me when I found myself incredibly tired and incapable of lasting very long, especially when in an intense training cycle.
Top level coaching, great video!
Thank you very much!
xian is a genius!!!
Agreed
I need to climb with someone to give me feedback this is so helpful! 😊I’m still at V0 did my 1st V1 yesterday but I have NO clue what my errors are 🤦🏽♀️🤣
Great video 👏👏👏
Thank you 👍
Committing to getting to the top or falling off can really help improve performance and ensure you get the most out of each attempt. Erase the option of giving up. Exceptions should be made if you are certain that you will fall in an uncontrolled/unsafe manner. I just see way too many people give up when the going gets tough (which is when you really benefit from any exercise) and therefore losing out on breakthroughs in performance and/or overcoming fear of falling. Stay safe but try hard...meaning don't give up.
great video as per usual!
Thanks so much 🥹
Hannah. Another great video. I have been climbing for about 9 months and am loving it. I hate to admit (sounds chauvinistic) but I would never have thought that my favorite climbing video content would be from a woman. There just isn't anyone else out there doing it the way that you do. Keep the videos coming and I'll keep watching!
Thank you! I really appreciate that ☺️
Love the videos. In my experience, plateau's are usually strength based and not technique based. In order to employ lots of the techniques mentioned, strength is required. When I broke through V5/V6 plateau that most climbers face, it was through strength training. Most of the techniques here apply all the way up to V10+, the only thing that changes is the size of the holds and the distance between them. Flagging and dropknees and heel hooks all apply from V5 to VInfinity, its just that they get smaller. Would be curious to hear others' thoughts on this. Cheers!
I respectfully disagree. I come from a powerlifting/armwrestling/calisthenics background so I had all the strength I could possibly need. Minus finger strength which improved with climbing but my plateaus were always technique focussed and as I progressed through the V-grades it was always about subtler and subtler body positions and cues, particularly hip positioning for me. For sure strength plays a huge role but the difference between a V9 and a V16 climber isn’t just strength based imo. I think this is actually best demonstrated in Hannah’s video where her boyfriend and Emil tackle the hardest indoor boulders and he makes quick progress with subtle changes to his technique, something fingerboarding and pull-ups wouldn’t have improved in a single session.
@@daedyg793 It's really interesting to see you say that as, prior to discovering bouldering & climbing, I was definitely physically stronger than I am now. However I had no clue about climbing technique! All my progress has been technique based with little to no strength training involved. I've found that I really have to understand how to move and coordinate my body and how to weight and grip different types of holds to make progress.
@@daedyg793 Kind of an apples and oranges situation. Most plateau's are strength based because most people tend to disregard strength training and having strong fingers/muscles is an advantage everytime. But of course if you're already ripped you don't need to improve your strength (not counting fingers) and can focus on technique. I'm not expert but seeing the video I'm pretty sure that some sessions on the kilter board that appears on the video at 40º would make wonders for her progress. Not only for strength, but for technique and move commitment.
@@daedyg793 super interesting. Thanks for sharing. I actually come from a powerlifting background as well (which was totally useless for me at least haha), I had found that increasing the volume and intensity of pull ups, hang boarding and spray wall and dropping weight has most improved my climbing grade-wise. Taking the example with Emil for example, yeah i concede that sometimes body positioning is the culprit, but for climbers with 2+ years experience, often I find that those body positioning issues are only found with climbers who lack the requisite strength to hold or get into that body position.
When I see a strong climber flash my project, its rarely because they have better technique, as they are able to cruise through crux sequences with little trouble. They destroy me on climbing based strength metrics. Especially when they campus the problem for a warmup hahaha
Also when revisiting climbs that I had struggled with, I had found that the clever beta techniques I had developped when projecting the boulders when it was at my limit were just unnecessary when I could just pull through the moves nowadays.
I’m starting to think its a “different strokes for different folks”. Some need technique and experience on the wall to progress, some need strength. Perhaps its even dependent on the type or style of climbing. One likely doesnt need strength to break through a V7 slab plateau and whatnot
Strength and technique are complements. You are right, many techniques are simply impossible without the strength to apply them. However you can also be the strongest person in a gym and if you have no technical knowledge you will not climb very hard. I agree that for casual climbers, technique usually outpaces strength, so it is tempting to say strength is the limit, but when watching the absolute best climbers, who are already basically “maxed” on strength, you see that very subtle changes in technique are what is making the difference for them, because they simply cannot get much stronger. Like you said, it just depends on the individual at the end of the day, different strokes for different folks.
Dont you think you used the wrong beta on the first purple one? Shift your hands to where your left foot is, and right foot where your hands where, reach for the next hold with the right hand, should be easier
This is crazy, I should film myself climbing
I have a question for you Hannah: I wear size 41, in Miura I have size 39, in Hiangle 5.10 I have size 41 1/3, how to choose the size for the unparralel you have? Thx.
Hey Hannah. Been watching you for a while, big fan. I'll be in London(honeymoon trip) and planning to do s little bouldering while I'm there. What's gyms would you recommend I hit?
Ah, congratulations on your marriage - how exciting. I personally always enjoy The Climbing Hangar - (and we have a 50% off code if you book online) there's a small one in London with an old school vibe and friendly team, or a larger, modern one in Reading, just outside London.
I've also particularly enjoyed Yonder for a beautiful space with a nice, relaxed coffee space, Hang is full of amazing routes, and the Castle is... well.. in a CASTLE. There's almost too many to choose from in London.
It's interesting because she basically tells you not to use a drop knee around the 11 minute mark, and to shift your weight over so you can reach. Seems to be different to what be_climbing was teaching you before. Perhaps it's because the hold is further away that you need to do something else.
4:36 who are the cool dudes in the cap and the white shirt in the background tho???? 👀👀👀😳😳
Is Xian still with bouldering botbat?
I believe so yes 🥳
Good to know. Thank you. Haven't seen her from their videos for a while.@@hannahmorrisbouldering
Xian is a fantastic instructor. WOW! Every suggestion she gave was spot on for your climbing requirements. That was amazing to watch first hand. Great video. I guess I'm impressed because she gave you tips on similar problems I'm having myself🤣 Gym day is tomorrow so I'm trying those skills out, too. Thanks Hannah and Xian👍🏽
I hope Hannah doesn't become another Geek Climber. That is to say, chasing so many different things for content, and seeing no meaningful improvement in their climbing as a result.
This video is a solid step forward to bringing the focus back in. You can tell Xian doesn't coddle Hannah like some other mentors on this channel, and that's a good thing.
She is so incredibly articulate - so much intelligence in her eyes, AND shes strong as hell? Impressive coaching.
That's exactly the move I need to do on a project to get my first v6. Can't wait to get get on the wall and try this technique. Thanks!
You’ve got it! Hope it helps 💪
Good luck! I immediately thought of a boulder I couldn't get further on myself. Curious to see, if I can figure it out on the wall.
@@Bloxeh Good luck too!
This was brilliant Hannah. Xian makes it sound simple and explains the reasons for the movement so well.
I will be trying to put this into practice tomorrow. I'm guilty of just rushing at problems and not thinking them through first.
I'm learning so much from your videos. Thank you.
This is such a good video! Xian is so helpful. Knowledgeable and great at sharing that knowledge.
Thanks Ben! Glad you liked the video 🙌
Great video Hannah!!!! So many good pointers….I think that what I notice with you is that when you climb freely and allow yourself to use your momentum, you climb with more flow and it looks more effortless. But if you’re like me, you want to feel like you’re climbing gracefully or pretty, so you intentionally (or unintentionally) slow yourself down in order to climb with more style (I do anyway). But what that does is forces you to have to depend on strength and makes climbs harder than they need to be. I’m an analytical person so I have to force myself to not think, and simply do, and that admittedly makes the prospect of falling greater. But what I’ve learned is that it also increases my ability to climb harder, and I think that you may deal with some of the same things. You’re clearly strong enough to take your climbing to the next level, but I think that simply focusing on using your momentum to get to the next hold will do wonders for your confidence and will eventually help to get rid of the fear of falling (I think that that is also why you would rather climb slowly and controlled). I know that you’re physically capable of really really strong climbing, the trick is going to be now on taking all that you’ve learned about form and precision and all of that and basically throwing it out the window in order to now focus on dynamism and momentum based climbing, because you’re definitely strong enough. As always, rooting for you and thank you for giving us such useful content😃🤙🏽
Wow! Thank you very much for this very detailed explanation! What a coach she is!!
That's coaching is sick, it's very nice to see the breakdowns, and how she can identify the patterns, top notch !!!!
This was awesome!! Please do more coaching videos it really helps to see it visually! Also Xian is a great teacher!
More to come! ☺️☺️
Oh great, a new video, Hannah! 💗. Just finished a sesh in the local gym. Will watch later when I get home!
Hope you had a fun session and hope you enjoy the video with Xian! ☺️💪
@@hannahmorrisboulderingHad a great sesh yesterday, thanks. Flashed a couple of new routes, only lower grade though.
These are some really great tips from Xian who's very good at explaining how and why the moves work. And you're so quick in picking up the concepts. Thanks for the video. 💗
Love your videos. The coaches you bring on are so knowledgable and articulate which has been really helpful for me! Thank you!
Really glad to hear it ☺️
omg OMG OMG when I saw this on my RUclips I freaked out my 2 fave climber girls
Getting that purple at the end was awesome to see! no way for me 😂
More of Coach Xian please!
She's great, we'll see what we can do. :)
We were over on a trip from Australia and visited this place because of your videos (bought your t-shirt too!).. Think we saw Xian while we were there... She's awesome! Great video!
Hey Hannah, great video! To break your plateau I think you should dedicate more time to board climbing (I noticed you said that you didn’t board climb much when you were moon boarding in a previous video). I think unless your genetically blessed, only climbing on commercial sets only takes you so far - at some point the stimulus becomes too random to make consistent progress. I was stuck at a similar plateau for years until I got on the Moon and kilter and logged climbs consistently, building upon similar movement patterns, and have seen steady improvement. Also achieving strength gains also unlocks more fluidity and technique you can apply on the wall (if you have a good technique base, as you have). Anyway, just my 2c I thought I’d share :)
I found your channel on the day this was filmed, found myself I the background today 😂. Brill vid and loved the breakdown on what your cg is doing!!
is xian singaporean? her accent sound like sg accent plus uk influence
This is great, thanks! I really need to get out of the habit of pulling!
That was some excellent coaching !! A lot to think about and try, I'll save it and rewatch it when needed, for sure !!
Watching Xian helping you I think we can all take something from it- thank you Hannah! Glad you sent the purple! This made me smile as I am not very well right now so thank you Hannah! 😊😁
Another very helpful video
Throughout the video all I could think was "Hannah is so strong!"
Thank you! That’s nice to hear as I’ve been coming back from injury and feeling a little stuck so it’s nice to be getting back!
So happy to see Xian !
very clickbait title
Thanks for the feedback
3 minutes of total waffle to ultimately say 'smear on the wall' 9:10
Hi Hannah, apologies for the unsolicited advise, I recommend you do some scapula stability exercises. Try and prevent the slouch and scap lift when you reach, open chest ie thoracic cage.