Miata MX-5 Transmission and Rear Differential Fluid Change
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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In this video, I change the gear oil in the 5-speed transmission and rear differential of my 1996 Mazda MX-5 Miata. I didn't know when they were changed last, and decided to drain and refill them to get ready for driving this spring.
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Gear oil pump: www.amz.lt/yywkv
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Didn’t even get past the intro without thinking “what a likeable guy”
Nice video, friendly guy. But I have some recommendations to make. 1. I think the car should be level and not nose down as suggested. Nose down means you will not drain all the diff oil and also means you are slightly overfilling. 2. Washers: aluminum crush washers to be used are single use ( for a reason), so should have been replaced, but were not in this video as far as I have seen. There seem to be guys who went to their local Mazda dealership who turned out to be unable to find a part number for the washer, badly disappointing their customer leaving without new washers. You need 4 aluminum crush washers 24 x 18 x 1.5 mm. Any hydraulic equipment shop should have these sealers on stock (and lots cheaper than at your Mazda dealer), and Amazon may also be able to help. Should also your Mazda dealership try to disappoint you, you now know where to go. 3. Torque specs are about right and not critical for fill plugs but critical for both drains. You do not want a slow drip of gear oil since you can hardly check the levels in a practical way because there are no dipsticks. Jacking up the car for oil level checks? Don't think so. So, use new washers and torque properly.
I like you man. You seem cool.
😎
I' m not a native English speaker. But your instructin was very easy and clear to follow. wonderful!
He passes the vibe check
Very good video. Really appreciate the torque setting callouts.
great clear video, always in focus, you were not in the way of the camera, clear simple instructions...thanks! (I have a 2008 Miata touring soft top, black outside, black inside 6 speed manual)
I *might* be buying another NA to go with the NB. If I can find space LOL
Rrespekt Brother.
from Albania.
Very Helpful! I will be changing my fluids as well. I just obtained my 95 Miata a week ago and I love it!
Good stuff! The biggest change for me was the trans, the shifting went from vague to really smooth.
Your tutorial help me great and make me happy. From S. Korea. Thumb up!
Glad I could help!
Excellent video; however, if you have a 2006-2009 Automatic NC there are some differences. The Differential plugs are 23mm (top-fill) and 24mm (bottom-drain) and both have crush washers. I used Red Line Gear oil 75w90 GL-5 for Diff. The Automatic transmission has a 24mm (top-fill) plug but instead has an actual Transmission pan with a small 9/16 bolt (for the drain). The Manual has two large holes and no trans. pan (as per this video). I found Trans. fluid as recommended in the 2007 manual (JWS3309). There are several types (Mazda oil), Aisin ATF-oT4, and Idemitsu ATF Type M.
Thanks for the refresher, I'm about to do this myself after neglecting her for a little bit. Changed the power steering fluid, too, the MityVac I got really came in handy for that.
I'm happy I found someone who has the same transmission as I do, because I don't want to undo something accidentally and regret it.
The NA/NB Miata 5-speed (the 6-speed too) are some of the easier transmissions to work with. If only the 5 speed could survive past 300 whp ....LOL
Thank you dude. Great video and you just saved me £100 getting this done at the shop!
Glad I could help!
My car is Montego Blue also!!! But mine is a 97 so 1 year younger. Love it dude
Thanks man. Did my first oil change and differential oil change in a miata today. Tomorrow, transmission fluid and coolant flush.
I am currently about to pull the engine and transmission this weekend. About to do some upgrades!
Just used this video as my guide for my 2003 Miata 5 speed. Worked out exactly as you laid it out in the video. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
Same here just finished my nb ls 2003
immediately liked and followed after that intro. thanks for the help!
Love this channel. Informative and to the point. Looking forward to seeing more.
everybody liked that
Saw you in the thumbnail and hoped you were doing an NB. It may not help me but thanks for sharing your experience with the community!
If you have a 5 spd NB, the steps are pretty much the same, the 6 spd is slightly different. And I do have an NB w/6 spd now.
@@FiveFiveGarage Sweet, thanks! And congratulations on the 6spd NB! :D
In my 1991, I have separate shifter fluid which needs to be removed with a syringe or baster and refilled. It requires taking the center console out or at least moved out of the way and rubber shift boot gasket removed. Not sure if all NA's have that or not. Might as well do that as part of the transmission service as well at the same time. Then all the transmission and shifter fluid is fresh.
transmission and shifter fluid are a little different.
Getting it ready for summer!
Subscribed this morning and changing my trans/diff fluid as we speak 5 hours later
Thanks for watching! Your car should shift much better! I wish the transmission in my Speed 3 was as smooth as the Miata gearbox.
HOWdy F-F-G,
I'm way overdue on my DIFFERENTIAL Lube CHANGE
Thanks for the LINK / URL on the Quart Bottle PUMP ( Oops = it is DEAD )
& the suggestion on the 75W90 Hypoid Gear LUBE
Changed the Tranny Fluid & Filter on my Automatic 🙂 last year
COOP
...
Hell yeah! I just got a 94. Subscribed
Getting mine ready for a trip to Mackinaw for my cousin's wedding I'm really excited camping right next to the bridge for 3 days gonna have my beautiful lady with me quite a humbling moment in my life from what I came from
Sounds like a fun trip! I wish I could drive mine, unfortunately adulting is eating up my free time at the moment, but I hope to have it back on the ground and running by this summer!
Good video. Just got a 1999 NB. This was very informative. Thx!
Thanks for watching! Have fun with the NB!
great video thanks, I have an 05 miata and doing the transmission drain/fill and your video was a good refresher.
Great video, thanks! I have an nb, but I am sure the process is the same!
Yep, NA/NB are similar.
Great really clear video .Thank you for the post !
Another great vid, can't wait to see more.
you got a miata. nice.
Yep. I am going to need something fun to drive when I take apart the Speed 3 this summer.
Mt 90 is for the transmission. You can use any gl5 for the diff
Transmission is the same one out of my 87 B2000 lol good video
This was great thanks
@Five Five Garage - Thank you so much for posting! Will you list the links for all the supplies you use again? The current link doesn't work and I want to make sure I purchase everything before I start! Thanks :-)
Sure! Hope this helps!
The Pump:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Transmission: (You will need 2 of these)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCBEQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Differential: (1 of these)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCBF0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You’re a good man 🤜🤛
Good stuff! Thnaks.
Awesome video, Thanks
Thank you sir good vid👍
Great video mate, really love your videos
Thank you!
THANK YOU
Muy a tiempo tu video Gracias
Excellent video. Subbed. Thanks!
Thanks, this vid is very helpful 👌
Nicely done. Thanks --
Super helpful! Thank you so much
Your Miata is missing the stabilizer bar that braces the rear subframe to the chassis. It is a u-shaped tubing that mounts to the four welded in nuts on the bottom of the sub frame and the two weld nuts on the bottom of the seat wells. You have the front cross stabilizer though.
Not every NA has those, you can add them from a later NA or an NB. My 10AE NB has them though.
awesome man. just a quick question, isnt the car supposed to be level when draining and refilling? thanks
As level as you can get it. I had the car on jack stands front and rear.
Great video, thanks for that. But did you used new crusher washers, for the plugs?
I should have added that to the video. This time I didn't, as they looked like they were recently replaced.
Well done video, very imformative, but you "do not" have to have a torque wrench to maintain vehicles. I've worked on machines for 50 yrs and have "never" used a torque wrench, and never suffered a backed out bolt or loose thread on anything, including all my own maintenance on my BMW K-75 motorcycle, past MGB and Midget, all sedans, and now my 08 Miata Grand Touring Edition. If you can't feel how tight something is or needs to be, then maybe let me do it.
Question, would this work well on a 1999 NB aswell? Thank you in advance and love the video man! Very informative
Yep. The 6 speed is slightly different but still the same steps for everything else!
Hey I love your videos. I wanted to know if you can show the proper jack stand positions when jacking your mazdaspeed? Rear side
Pinch welds?
Sure! I will keep that in mind when I do the downpipe installation.
DISCLAIMER: I am an automotive hobbyist/enthusiast. I am not a certified mechanic.
It's a good idea to have a friend standing by to lend a hand with these procedures.
The following methods are simply the ways that I've serviced my MX-5. If you're uncomfortable getting beneath your vehicle, hire a professional. Getting underneath a vehicle is very dangerous!
I suggest that you Google - "recommended jacking points for a Mazda MX-5" if you'd like to see visual depictions of these procedures.
I prefer using 2 quality automotive ramps, and 2 automotive wheel chalks for both the transmission & differential servicing of my Mazdaspeed MX-5.
If you must use a floor jack and floor stands, use a trusted floor jack (of correct weight rating), and floor stands (of correct weight rating) on a clean, and level concrete floor. Get familiar with the proper way of using the floor jack, jack stands, and wheel chalks.
DO NOT USE A SCISSOR STYLE JACK FOR THESE SERVICES.
For the front of your Mazdaspeed MX-5:
Place wheel chalks around the rearward side of each rear tire.
Using a (proper weight rated) floor jack. Place the jack in the centre of the (black) metal cross member and jack up the vehicle; now place your jack stands beneath the front pinch welds - as noted in your owners manual, lower the car onto the jack stands. It's okay to leave the jack in place while doing this service as it may provide a little extra piece of mind. Give the car a good "shove" to confirm it's firmly planted on the stands before getting beneath the car.
Go to work on the trans fluid...
To jack up the rear of your Mazdaspeed MX-5:
Chalk both front wheels to ensure the car will not roll forward.
Place a solid chunk of 2x4 (about 15cm / 6 inches) between your floor jack "plate" and your rear differential. Jack up the rear end.
Place the jack stands at the rear pinch welds (as seen in the owners manual), and lower the car onto the jack stands. You'll probably need to remove the floor jack to access the drain & fill bolts for the rear differential, so make sure the car is well supported on the jack stands before getting beneath your car. Again, give the car a good "shove" to ensure the jack stands are supporting the weight of your car.
There's no such thing as being 'a little dead.' BE CAREFUL!
Once the car is safely lifted, you can service the rear differential.
I too have used Redline products in both the transmission, and differential - good stuff.
@@pete5534 quality info there mate
Hey Randy my 2008 ran empty on trans fluid. I drove it til it burned hot and clicked; is it done???
Auto or manual?
Manual, the synchros could be shot, I would try filling it / draining it to see if any metal shavings come out. If you fill it and its hard to shift you will know why. Even if it seems fine, I would have a spare transmisssion on hand (if you have a 5 speed good time for a 6 speed swap) just in case it starts dropping gears later.
As for an auto, its probably going to need a rebuild, clutch packs definitely dried out and are destroyed especially if you smelled anything burning and it got hot.
The manuals can handle a bit more abuse but the auto will be a slipping mess without a rebuild.
THE ONLY BLACK GUY IN AMERICA WITH A MAZDA MIATA
It's very good video. I want to know the capacity of Tran&Diff. Thank you
The differential takes a 1 quart (946ml), and the transmission uses 2 quarts. The bottles I used are in 1 quart sizes, so get 3 and you will be good to go.
I’m dreading trying to find a 23mm socket somewhere… seems to be the least common socket around.
Try your local Autozone. They have a wall of sockets and usually have the 23mm available, that is where I got mine.
FWIIW, I got mine easily on Amazon 👍🏻
I just picked up a 2000 miata with a 6spd. Car is hard to get into gear when it’s on. But when it’s off slides tight into gear is this clutch and flywheel related?
It could be a couple things. I had a similar issue when I got this car (and my NB), I would start with changing the gear oil in the transmission, especially if you don't know when it was changed last. That's what I used in this video and the shifting went from notchy to bolt action smooth.
If you are still having issues, look at the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. If it is dark, flush and re-bleed the system to make sure you have no air in the lines. The clutch slave might not be engaging properly which could make shifting harder.
Transmission shifting rough is usually going to be one of these few things (a third would be bad motor mounts allowing the engine to rock under power) but clutch/flywheel is not one of them. I would start with these two first and it is a good possibility your problem will get sorted out!
great video boss, subscribed
Thanks for watching!
Should the car be jacked up level and off all 4 wheels so the drain plug is level?
About as level as you can get it.
I can't seem to get my fill plug out on the diff or transmission. Any recomendations?
If they haven't been off in awhile (or ever in the case of mine at the time) you may have to use a propane torch and get a bit of heat in them to help loosen them up. PB Blaster also works (spray them heavily and let them sit overnight).
I thought NA Miatas didn't have an transmission fluid drain plug but a pan that drops. Drop the pan, dump the fluid, clean the pan, and then reinstall pan.
Fill plug is on the side, drain plug is on the bottom. It is far easier this way than dropping the pan, I would do that if I suspected there was debris in the transmission.
Still satisfied with the oil you chose?
Yep! The trans still shifts very smooth. It will be even better when I replace my motor mounts, they are shot.
How did you find a 23mm socket for your diff fill plug...
Autozone. The one near my house has a wall of sockets and I was lucky they had a 23mm in stock. You can also try Harbor Freight if you have one nearby.
Does it matter if it’s a regular differential or a limited slip one?
Nope. I use the same for my torsen diff that I used for the open diff.
@@FiveFiveGarage thank you, and I’m honestly surprised you still answer after 2 years of uploading the video, new subscriber!
No problem! Thanks for subbing! I will have some more diff fluid related videos once the weather warms up here!
Is everything the same for an NB2 ?
NB2 5 speed yes. I think the 6 speed has different fill plug location.
Does anyone know where they sell redline mt 90 gl4 and 75w 90 gl5 locally?
None of the auto parts chains had it in stock near me. If you have any race shops near by I would give them a call.
@@FiveFiveGarage thanks man i just did my diff fluid change today following your instructions
is is a manual or auto trans
Manual, 5 speed. The Autos use ATF and has a different filling location.
where can i find some good torque wrenches for the miata
Can't go wrong with Harbor Freight if you have one close. They are fairly accurate if you are using them for most automotive jobs. If it is for say like an engine, I use my Kobalt Digital.
@@FiveFiveGarage Thanks for the tips!
I got this one for inch-lbs
www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61277.html
and a half inch drive for 20-200 ft lbs
im going to start working on mine very soon, wish me luck
That one is a 1/4" and it does INCH pounds instead of FOOT pounds (in/lbs vs ft/lbs). Inch pounds (in/lbs) are used for small bolts, foot pounds (ft/lbs) are for everything else.
You are going to want a 3/8", this one will cover most of the work that you will be doing to the car:
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html
Check for HF coupons too! Sometimes they have them where the torque wrenches are under $15.
@@FiveFiveGarage That is correct. i'll be using the 1/4" for the head cover bolts which ask for 43-78 inch lbs
www.miata.net/garage/torque.html
the 1/2 " drive I bought is calibrated for 20 to 150 ft/lbs. this is the one i plan on using for everything else.
www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-62431.html
would there be any problem using a 1/2" over a 3/8"?
Not really a problem, majority of the time I am working on the car with 3/8" sockets, so it is one less step to just switch from ratchet to torque wrench because I don't have to stop and go hunting for a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter to use the bigger wrench.
Is this a manual?
Yep. 5-speed.
Warm the box & diff up before oil change? New crush washers? Calling a plug a 'bolt' ? Using an imperial spanner ( wrench ) on a metric plug?? Apart from that it was very informative - thanks!
9/16" wrench on a Japanese auto !!??
Yep.
I get so much flack for this, but to show people I just didn't pull this out of thin air I will provide the link to the miata.net forum thread I got the info from : forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=549313
"A 9/16" open end wrench fits the 5-speed fill plug perfectly. No need to hunt down rare tools, any basic tool set should have this size. If it's too tight, slide a pipe over the wrench."
You can use a 14mm, but it didn't fit snugly and I did not want to round off that bolt. The 9/16" fit tight and I haven't had an issue getting the fill bolt out in the over 3 years since I made this video (fyi, this very same transmission is in my current turbo NB project car).