I don't want to be a debbie downer but i feel the background music was really distracting. I kept thinking it was my own, but having music with lyrics was hard for me to concentrate on your speaking. just my 2 cents
You know you are actually right, its funny how I watched this video back 100 times when making it and never noticed, but in hindsight its probably not the right background music for the video.
Also, to those who want an easier shifting trans in the cold, I've had great luck with the Motorcraft XT-M5-QS fluid. After 20K miles, my trans still shifts like butter. Previously, I was using Redline's MTL fluid which is good, but found the 1st-2nd shift to be a bit notchy in the cold and during hard driving.
You may have uncovered the reason for a lot of grinding synchros! The NB owners manuals in the USA call for GL4 OR GL5 for the transmission since most of our gear oils are GL-5 rated (thanks to our illustrious EPA!) and GL-5 has too many friction modifiers for the synchros! Thanks! I just picked up some synthetic GL-4 and hope it helps!
Nothing wrong with automatics ,my wife's Rf club is her daily driver to work everyday. She gets 37 mpg and doesnt have to wear her arm out during an 80 mile commute. That's very important when working in the dental field to keep a steady hand.
As my wife and I each drive several vehicles, from a 1968 Mustang to a 2010 Challenger SRT, (Manual) and didn't want to spend too much effort in having to adjust to an unfamiliar seldom driven car we chose to purchase a Miata with an automatic.We have great fun, and the ride is always a reminder of how we enjoy each other's company. I do my own fluid changes, and was disappointed in your not including automatic service fluid in your dissertation.
I ran royal purple recently in my 90 miata and it made a huge difference. In idle quality and start up and everywhere. And im in pa where it goes from 15-75 degrees in 8 hours
@@Bbeavis Ive also found that taking my ND 1.5l to Mazda dealerships to get it serviced and they used 10w 30. So Im not sure to be worried haha. so Ive recently just serviced it with 5w 30 my self. From Australian dealerships
You may want to warn people that there is a plug on the transmission that looks like the oil fill/level plug, but isn't. If by accident it is unscrewed then internal selector parts fall into the gearbox and you will have to take the entire gearbox off the car and apart to fix it!! So make sure you locate the correct fill/level plug when doing this.
Some info about shifter rebuilds: You’ll see a lot of threads mentioning that you need to syphon out and replace the oil in the turret. This is only for the 5-speed. The 6-speed is “self lubricating” and doesn’t need to be filled. Source: idk but it took me like 4 hours of research to find this info online after I discovered my turret to be wet with oil but nothing to syphon out lol
Excellent Video; however, I had trouble finding info on Automatic Transmission fluid changes (especially for 2006-2009 Miata NCs). On the Manual Trans. there are Fill and Drain bolt (top-Bottom 23mm and 24mm) BUT on an Automatic Transmission there is a 24mm Top fill bolt (on the side) and a regular Transmission Pan drain plug "under" the transmission with a 9/16 bolt. Also the Side Top Fill bolt has a "rubber" washer gasket (NOT a crush washer) so just snug it to keep it drain coming out (wouldn't torque it hard). My 2007 Car Manual calls for JWS-3309 Trans fluid and I found three types on EBAY/Amazon...Mazda Fluid, Aisin ATF-OT4 and Idemitsu ATF Type M. Also the Automatic Transmission takes three and 1/2 quarts to fill. The rear Differential has two bolts 23mm fill and 24mm drain (both with crush washers and torqued to 25-33 ft lbs). I used Redline 75w90 gear oil..took less than 1 quart.
I ran a quart of ATF and took care of like two oil leaks on my car and switched from rotella T6 (the holy grail apparently) to 10W30 and it hasnt made any noise since. 150k mile 1.6l
I have found these gearboxes to be quite sensitive to cold temperature viscosity. There can be a huge difference in cold temperature performance for a bunch of different 75W90 oils. Penrite Pro-Gear 75W90 GL4 for example is very thick @ 40C which means it will be incredibly thick on cold sub 10 degree C mornings. Redline MT90 is thinner @ 40C than the Penrite oil. I had Penrite in my gearbox and it was super stiff just moving out of first, and it felt like there was a physical barrier blocking 2nd until I drove for a bit. Nulon 75W85 has excellent cold shift performance and feels good at operating temp. The Ford/Motorcraft oil is only slightly thicker than the 75W85 at cold temps but is thicker at operating temps, so should offer a bit more protection. If cold shifting is an issue where you live then it would pay to look at a few different gear oils product data sheets and look for an oil that has a relatively low viscosity @ 40C but sufficient high temp viscosity for protection depending on what kind of driving you do. If you do a lot of track driving cold shift performance might not bother you or you can deal with it. But for a daily driver/commuter I would avoid the super high viscosity stuff.
Thanks for sharing this information Jake. Definitely over the years I have seen/heard many people describe similar experiences to yours, different oils present varied experiences for the gearbox. The box does appear to be quite sensitive to oil choice. I've recently tried some Amsoil GL4 stuff and it's been rather nice.
@@Bbeavis I have got some of the Motorcraft oil on the way for my ND, at 40C it is only slightly more viscous than the thinner Nulon 75W85, but is thicker at 100C so in theory should offer better high temp protection with a minimal difference in cold temp shifting. I think there are also differences in the tolerances in each gearbox as some people have said their ND gearbox has always been 'butter smooth' and others have said it's always been notchy, almost to the point of crunchy, although this could also be due to the ambient temperature where people live. One person might closer to the equator and keep their car garaged, so the gear oil is never that cold and as such is closer to an optimum temp for smoother shifting. Someone who lives in a colder climate and keeps their car outside overnight could experience stiff shifts even with lighter oil. Once mine is warm, with either the 75W85 or 75W90 its a firm shift with a bit of tactile notchiness and a fun sounding gear whine when accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear. I daily drive mine with the occasional country road blast here in NSW, so I'm happy with the protection of a 75W85 for now but would be happier with a 75W90 that has good cold shift performance. I am starting to believe the factory fill, Mazda's special long life gear oil IS is actually a 75W80 or a 75W85 but have yet to find a data sheet for it. The factory fill diff oil is the Hypoid gear oil SG1 which is a 75w85 oil. The thinner oils seem to be in line with the thin 0W20 they spec in the engine for fuel economy.
Some good points. Agree 100% that weather and driving style impacts this. I ended up moving to a sightly thicker 5w30 engine oil from my ND, as we have some pretty cold weather in Melbourne.
A lot of times you are better off using 5w30 over 5w20 because the mfg recommendation is just to get that extra 0.05 mpg to help meet economy standards, not because it's better or even as good at lubricating engine parta. Not sure if that's the case with the NC recommendation but probably.
I'd like to warn everyone about using Royal Purple in your Transmission. A couple people I know (myself included, NB) that have grinding noises after using Royal Purple. Maybe we're just unlucky, but I'd steer clear of using it!
I've heard the same from others who have used Royal Purple in other makes of car trans. I've used Red Line MT90 75-90, GL-4 synthetic in my 2008 NC 6 speed for 10 years and have smooth shifts.
Damn you triggered all the automatic drivers.. you daredevil! Question tho, I've changed my blinker bulbs to LED ones and I can't find the right fluid! What should I do?
Hello... I drive an 94 MX 5 NA Miata 1.8L (only when the weather is nice), now 30 years old and has done 160,000 km. What kind of engine oil would you recommend? Thanks, Hardy
Interestingly, none of the major oil producers quote a gearbox oil for a manual MX5 NC gearbox. They only quote engine and diff oil. GL4 is widely available and I have seen that using it as gearbox oil in the MX5 will result in sluggish gear changes when cold. What specific oil - brand/type, does Mazda quote in their service schedules? Also, the gearbox change lever turret requires the (separate) oil change that can only be accessed from inside the car.
The owners manuals don't seem to dictate oil brand/type for the NC transmission, only the replacement interval, which depending on the model is around 60,000miles/100,000kms. Certainly specs are GL-4 75w90 for the trans, GL-5 75w90 for the diff.
@@Bbeavis As far as I understand, GL4 is suitable for bush bearing gearboxes and GL5 for more modern needle roller/ball bearing 'boxes although GL 4 can be used for those also, GL5 should not be used in gearboxes that specify GL4. That implies that the GL4 oil is formulated for good shear performance and GL5 for adhesion and maybe that is the source of 'stickiness' experienced by some. The problem is exacerbated by various top brands only prominently displaying the viscosity index i.e.75W-90 in the same manner on both versions and leaving the GL4/GL5 identity for the small print. I doubt many garages/parts department/oil vendors even know or care about the subtle difference between the two versions so its not surprising that confusion and bad experience abounds. As said, none of the premium brand product selectors quote the transmission oil for the gearbox, which adds to the uncertainty.
My mechanic (official Mazda mechanic in my country) started using 10w60 in my nb. I only burn noticeable amounts of oil above 4500rpm. 230k km. should I keep using 10w60?
If you drive the car in a warm climate, or perhaps a lot of spirited driving such as track days... and/or if you trust your mechanic - then 10w60 might be appropriate for you. I'd usually only use something like 10w50 or 10w60 for a track-dedicated car that sees high temperatures.
Apparently the recommended oil weights vary from country to country as my 97 engine in America is 10W-30 and my manual tranny takes 80W-90. This is how it comes from the factory in Hiroshima, Japan, what it says in the manual, and according to Moss Miata (which I trust).
That is true, they do vary, always best to use your better judgement and often for warmer climates or older engines, a thicker weight oil is recommended.
Just so you know, we always buy a Miata with an automatic. They are the best! Wouldn't have a manual. Of course I only have my one right leg, so it would be tough doing a clutch, but even if I had two good legs, I would still get the automatic, you know, so my wife and niece can drive it!
5w30 is a bit light for an NA. Specs indicate 10w30 to 30deg c, 10w40 or 50 over that. 5w30 is for really low temps, sub zero in an NA. According to manufacturer specs.
The specific values can vary depending on where the vehicle was sold, always best to use your better judgement and refer to the manual supplied with your vehicle... and often for warmer climates or older engines, a thicker weight oil is recommended.
Personally I wouldn't fuss too much about a specific brand name. Provided the specs are correct, and the brand is reputable (i.e not some no-name brand with questionable quality) then you should be safe. Any new oil is better than old oil.
Just change my ND gearbox oil with Penrite Pro Gear Full Synthetic 75W-90 as recommended by Repco. It's now a bit notchy when cold. What viscosityis the Mazda long life oil recommended in the owners manual? Are you doing a video on piston return springs?
According to the manual: "If Mazda Original Long Life Gear Oil IS cannot be obtained, use standard oil (API Service GL-4 (SAE 75W-90))" So in theory as long as it's a quality GL4 to the spec weight, it should work well. From memory, Penrite does a GL5, but not sure they do a GL4. Probably need to check out a different channel for piston return springs, perhaps "ChrisFix", sorry John.
Hey, Not sure on the Shell Rotella, it's not common here in Australia, certainly hard to find it at our typical Auto stores. I'm sure it'd be suitable though - it's a modern synthetic. Thanks for watching Mad Miata!
I am sorry Mr Waffles, but I'm not sure what oil is ideal for the TFS differential centre. If you have your mazda owners manual, perhaps it states the ideal product to use. Otherwise try your local mazda dealer for a suggestion.
@@Bbeavis Local garage refreshed my NC3.75 turbo 6 speed gearbox with, it turns out, a generic semi-synthetic 75/90 which "works" for GL4/5. Brendan says FULLY synthetic and GL4 ONLY (5 speed may be different). The gearbox failed on the next track day. To be fair to the box I had a new driver with me who didn't rev match and just dumped the clutch, and I have a feeling the car may have had a (weaker) NC1 box put in it at some point, and we did thrash it all day, keeping up with cars with the same power but better suspension and grip. PUT THE RIGHT FLUID IN PEEPS. Don't let your local garage or their motor factor guess what's best.
That's certainly not a bad choice. And for an older 1.6 a slightly thicker cold viscosity like you are using might be necessary. But if its only 16c in winter then you probably live in a warmer climate (what are your summer temps like?) as such a thicker hot viscosity may help, maybe try a 10-40 next time?
Got a question. I’ve heard that in miatas switching to synthetic isn’t really necessary, but I like synthetic oils since they’re definitely superior. I went from a Mercedes to a Miata and like the idea of switching to synthetic but is it really worth it??
In my opinion there is no downside to using synthetic oil, other than the small cost premium. Yet there are a variety of benefits. I see no reason not to use at least a reputable semi-synthetic that best suits your environment and car/driving style.
Sorry I don't know what those acronyms(?) mean. But i am sure there's lots of good discussions on miataturbo.net around oil coolers that you can get your teeth stuck into.
I have an NB Miata with a built engine running aprox 310HP on the engine. I run 15W50 ( Fuchs Titan Race Pro ) for the engine and Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the Gearbox as well as the Diff (Torsen 2, 3.9 )... And I live in the Netherlands... It have always run this combination of oils (also in my RB26, R32) with no issues.. But when i watch this video you're saying i'm using the wrong oils :p So Am I ?
Hey if it's working for you, then all good! I'm not saying you're running the wrong oils, this video offers the most common suggestion. Maybe you could run a lower winter weight in the engine , like a 5W-50 ?
I've just bought someone else's unfinished project. It's a 89 1.6 with a T25G running 9psi. It's only going to see track work, should I still stick to 5W30? There's talk online of 15w50 which seems high but this is my first track car and I absolutely DO NOT trust the old owner
Given it's a track car & turbo - I'd suggest a high quality oil with a weight of 5w40 or 5w50. It's likely to get hot on track so a 5w50 is a good idea.
Good video! May i know why you shown the gearknob crooked alignment when talking about using wrong gearbox oil? Is that a sign of failing gearbox? Mine wiggles around anticlockwise about 45 degrees
I’m new to the Miata life with my 2001 miata, so my question is does it usually that long for the car to fire up? (About 2:20 in your video) seems unusual to me. I’m doing some maintenance and checking everything to make sure the Miata will have a long happy life
A stock engine with OEM ecu will usually start much quicker and easier. That was footage of the freshly built turbo engine starting for the first time. So, its not unusual for it to be a bit slower to start.
Hi David, without knowing more specifics on the oil you have I believe as a generalisation that would be safe to use. These are the specs as specified by Mazda: Rear differential oil - Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1 75W-90 Rear differential oil capacity (approx. quantity) - 0.6 L {0.6 US qt, 0.5 Imp qt}
Short and simple video! Great job. Would you recommend going fully synthetic for a 1993 NA 1.6L? I have a very slight lifter tick on cold startups and long idles. And what would your thought be on using an engine flush additive?
I'm no mechanic so cannot say for sure, but personally see no reason why you wouldn't choose a synthetic. I don't have much experience with engine flush products, personally if you keep oil change frequency up then you should be fine without the need for a flush.
Im running 1996 1.8 miata. all original(except valve cover gasket and small other things), nothing fancy. Best oil for me is a semi-synthetic high mileage oil. 5w-30. I tried full synthetic and its too thin for the rubber gasket. It make the engine swet. The car have 137 000 KM. Never winter driven.
I have heard stories of situations with older motors with seals that have "worn in", where they have changed the type of oil used in the engine, and the difference in minerals/additives is enough of a shock to the seals that it causes leaks.
hi, i live in switzerland, just bought my mazda mx5 1.6liter NB 1999. so our temps in winter is max -30 celsius and max +35 celsius. i want to drive it the whole year. i want to drive it to work (short distance only 10min drive but 6times a day and at the weekends hard and sometime cruising. for long distance i have a diesel to save money... so my question is wich oil you recommend? can yo help me please :) i will post a video from my MX5 later, than i will edit this comment if you want :)
Thanks Brendan! I used the Penrite 75-80 in my NC 6 speed gearbox but the changes have been between "notchy" and "difficult", especially when it's cold. I want to try something different. People sing the praises of Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS (I've no idea what the "weight" of the oil is) which used to be on Ebay but not now. Because the changes are slightly better when it's warm I've been told to use a thinner oil and Dex 3, the automatic transmission fluid was suggested. Besides Ford Motorcraft, one of the forums these were suggested: Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL-4 Amsoil MTG 75W-90 GL-4 Motorcraft XT-M5-QS 75W-90 GL-4 Any ideas???
@@Bbeavis UPDATE: My cousin suggested Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 and it has made a massive difference to my NC 6 speed!! After 200ks, l can say that 1-2 is HEAPS better and the rest (which weren't that bad) are also better. I'M STOKED and hoping there's more butter coming. While it was on stands l put 5W-30 Castrol Edge in the motor and now it starts easily, idles smoothly and sounds lubricated. Cheers Eric
Hey, I just bought a 1992 na 1.6(about 160000km), the car is previously in Sydney and the owner use 15w40, I'll bring the car to Melbourne which should I use? 5w40 or 10w40? Thanks.
Hi Bryce, I opt for the Penrite synthetic because it is a premium product, high quality, and mostly matches the spec required for the Transmission. I change it frequently and believe the 85 vs 90 is negligible in this case.
2019 ND in the UK: Mazda manual says "recommended oils "Mazda original supra 0w-20 & Mazda original ultra 5w-30" If you could, please could you explain the difference between the two/why they recommend two different types. And what you would recommend for the UK, low's of -5c + or - and highs of 30c + or - if we're lucky. Used as a "nice day" car, so mostly driven in the warmer months, but not ruled out driving in colder months if the weather was fine. Also, is the "Mazda original supra 0w-20 & Mazda original ultra 5w-30" the same as other brands? I'm assuming the oil viscosity is the only thing that matters here, not if it's a different brand, right? Many many thanks!
I cannot say why Mazda chooses to recommend certain oils. That is for their engineers/experts to explain. Perhaps the oil suppliers pay a royalty to have their brand in the owners manuals? The general consensus is the colder the climate, the "lower" numbers you you can with your oil, so likely for the cooler weather of the UK, 0-20 would be more suitable I would presume. Differences in brand are mostly negligible, provided they meet the same specs and weight as specified by the manufacturer. So, use Castrol, Mobil, Shell, whatever oil brand your parts store sells, as long as the specs on the bottle match your owners manual.
@@Bbeavis okay thank you very much for the response!! so what temps would you be recommending 5w-30? as that is in the recommended spec/weight section along side 0w-20 many thanks! :)
@@TheShubbah I cannot definitively say "XX temp = YY oil viscosity", that's Mazda's decision I suppose. I personally think if your weather rarely hits over 30degC, and commonly is in the low teens, then 0-20 makes more sense. If you see high 30's-40degC, then 5-30 would be more suitable for the ND engines at this point.
I have used the 10tenths in the past, however personally I change my oil very regularly, and find that a slightly less expensive but still premium grade oil is good enough for me. My engine isn't overly exotic and the additional cost seems unnecessary for me given the 'normal' 10-50 full synth from Penrite is ~30% cheaper.
In that case, speak with your engine builder to find their recommendation on the right oil for your specific application. When you start building an engine for performance, the Mazda recommended OEM spec oil may no longer be ideal.
Mazda ND: what do you thing about Mobil 1 0W-40? Always my prefered fully synthetic motor oil in other cars. Unfortunately it doesn't have approval by Mazda ... :-/
I think that would be fine although potentially a little thick when hot? Probably OK if you live it a hotter area where your oil is always heating up quickly.
Thanks for your answer! I'm living in Germany were we have moderate cold winter times and during the last few years relatively hot summers. 0W-40 is covering a broad range of temperature. That's why I wondered when I read that Mazda recommends a 0W-20 oil for the ND. I don't want that ... :-)
If you are in a hotter climate, the suggestion from Mazda as per the owners manual is a 5w-30 or 5w-40 oil. That is what I usually use as we get rather hot summers, and rarely freezing temperatures.
@@Bbeavis we get about mid 90s sometimes right at 100° with high humidity in NC around summer. I'll go with 0w20 this time since its winter and switch to 5w30 around spring next year.
I'm not sure about it being "less flamable", but yes my understanding is that the choice of oil for a rotary engine is important, and that typical synthetics are not the best option.
0w20 is Mazda's recommendation for most markets. Climate and the type of driving (or how hot the engine gets) should effect the choice of oil. I think 0w20 is acceptable for the winter months here in Melbourne where it's rather chilly. And wouldn't hurt to move to 5w30 for Summer.
@@Bbeavis In Germany Mazda dealers use both engine oils for the ND. Some fill in 4W-30 others 0W-20. Even though it does get very hot here all that often (and not as hot as in AU anyways).
But you forgot to mention where should we add blincker oil! For those who are searching it like me: add it to your battery, if workshops around you are bunck of chimps who cannot stop laughing if tou mention blinky oil, you can make it yourself!: 1x engine burnt oil(solid grade, 50) 3× hydraulic pump oil/fluid finalli 2x holy water(boil it in your refrigerator, then put it back into liquid, using foreskin of a jewish priestess (the more you add, more orange color reveals!). Then pour all of it into all 7 battery holes, if you have only 6 holes in your battery, go and find the battery dealer, then pour the liquid in his hole! Please share, shall the signal ticket and jewish priest extinc togather! 😅😅😅😅😂
30 years of conflicting workshop manuals from Mazda and aftermarket. 30 years of conflicting information from reliable sources. There will never be a consistent answer to GL4 or GL5 for the gearbox.
I guess somewhat the nature of any industry, there's going to be a variety of opinions and changes in technology/materials that may also influence peoples views. But I've generally seen Mazda's MX5 manuals to be consistent.
My 92 NA says "GL4/GL5" but I've seen other NA and NB manuals which say just GL4. I decided to use GL4 😅 It seemed good to do a flush anyway, the GL5 I initially put it was black after literally 3 minutes of driving. This car had sat for a while before I recently bought it.
How often should you service your car? I guess that depends on the owner and the type of driving. But roughly every 7,500kms or 4,000miles or at least every 12 months.
I think you are screwing with people re Blinker Oil....I never change my blinker oil and have never had a problem in hundreds of thousands of miles....So see! You do not need to change it!....Well maybe racing, I can see where that could be a whole lot of lane changes ....but for most normal MX=5 drivers? Heck I hardly even use mine anyway! Just dumb to give away one's intentions if you ask me.... around civilians anyway....these little guys already lack passing power to begin with so stealth is super important! BTW old school blinkers used a stinky dashpot fluid unlike modern units using long chain digital oil... for the old vehicles though best to stick with Allen-Bradley 810-N9C High Viscosity Dashpot Fluid....but good luck finding the digital fluid for MX5s! Since the pandemic that stuff is so hard to find....and if you do decide to change the digital fluid? Make sure NOT to get any on your skin!!
Hi David, Sadly the video is what is it is now and I cannot really change the music, you can always dial the volume down, and/or turn turn on the subtitles. Thanks for watching.
I grovel in jealousy that ausies and americans get amazing autostores and here in the UK we have Halfrauds which serve us no options and crap stuff at double the price
Damn, sorry to hear Nicolas, I would've thought UK would at least have a similar offering to AU... particularly given the population density is in your favour.
@@Bbeavis yeah well you get the drift...I happen to have an automatic 2001 Miata and it's easily the best car I have owned, and quite frankly I love the fact it's an automatic, I was born and raise in a country where stick shifts were all we had, and Ive owned them all my life, it's a pleasure not having to deal with driving stick.... just my opinion, and I was disappointed with the lack of info...
BEAVIS Motorsport, I know it’s a joke. A funny one too. You can say anything you want and I can give thumbs up, or not... Anyway, blinker fluid was Chris Fix’s joke...
I don't want to be a debbie downer but i feel the background music was really distracting. I kept thinking it was my own, but having music with lyrics was hard for me to concentrate on your speaking. just my 2 cents
You know you are actually right, its funny how I watched this video back 100 times when making it and never noticed, but in hindsight its probably not the right background music for the video.
Lol debbie downer... True the music was distracting
"Sorry we don't serve your kind here. You'll have to wait outside."
lmao
Glad you like! Thanks for watching James!
Yeah, that made me laugh too.
Also, to those who want an easier shifting trans in the cold, I've had great luck with the Motorcraft XT-M5-QS fluid. After 20K miles, my trans still shifts like butter. Previously, I was using Redline's MTL fluid which is good, but found the 1st-2nd shift to be a bit notchy in the cold and during hard driving.
Thanks for the info Dylan! :)
Dylan Lewis for a na or nb
You may have uncovered the reason for a lot of grinding synchros! The NB owners manuals in the USA call for GL4 OR GL5 for the transmission since most of our gear oils are GL-5 rated (thanks to our illustrious EPA!) and GL-5 has too many friction modifiers for the synchros! Thanks! I just picked up some synthetic GL-4 and hope it helps!
Thank you, I hope your car enjoys its new Oil :-)
The 8 dislikes are automatic miata owners
Lol! :-P
Nothing wrong with automatics ,my wife's Rf club is her daily driver to work everyday. She gets 37 mpg and doesnt have to wear her arm out during an 80 mile commute. That's very important when working in the dental field to keep a steady hand.
Auto miata driver here, cannot WAIT to swap it.
In their defense I will say that when I get too old to shift I may switch to an auto. But at 67 I still have no problems
@@Bbeavis WHAT ABOUT THE SHIFTER OIL ?
As my wife and I each drive several vehicles, from a 1968 Mustang to a 2010 Challenger SRT, (Manual) and didn't want to spend too much effort in having to adjust to an unfamiliar seldom driven car we chose to purchase a Miata with an automatic.We have great fun, and the ride is always a reminder of how we enjoy each other's company. I do my own fluid changes, and was disappointed in your not including automatic service fluid in your dissertation.
No problem, thanks for watching.
I really like the information on the blinker fluid! Its hard to turn when you run out.
Thank you Todd... glad your blinkers are being cared for!
I subscribed and knew I had to do so to stay up to date with blinker fluid tips.
It's that quality mechanical detail that you know I am here for.
I ran royal purple recently in my 90 miata and it made a huge difference. In idle quality and start up and everywhere. And im in pa where it goes from 15-75 degrees in 8 hours
Thanks for sharing GameMoments!
@@Bbeavis Ive also found that taking my ND 1.5l to Mazda dealerships to get it serviced and they used 10w 30. So Im not sure to be worried haha. so Ive recently just serviced it with 5w 30 my self.
From Australian dealerships
You may want to warn people that there is a plug on the transmission that looks like the oil fill/level plug, but isn't. If by accident it is unscrewed then internal selector parts fall into the gearbox and you will have to take the entire gearbox off the car and apart to fix it!!
So make sure you locate the correct fill/level plug when doing this.
Good tip - people should probably look up the details of how to perform an oil change before they go and make mistakes. Thanks for watching Roger!
BEAVIS Motorsport ; was
Roger Crier, Yes, I had a Ford truck years ago and an oil change shop did just that...
+Roger Crier Just wanted to add that, from what I can gather, this is only for the 6-speed boxes.
4:51 goes for EVERY SINGLE CAR BRAND. Owners always seem to forget this 😣😣
Sometimes people don't like to follow instructions. :P
Some info about shifter rebuilds:
You’ll see a lot of threads mentioning that you need to syphon out and replace the oil in the turret. This is only for the 5-speed. The 6-speed is “self lubricating” and doesn’t need to be filled.
Source: idk but it took me like 4 hours of research to find this info online after I discovered my turret to be wet with oil but nothing to syphon out lol
Good tip, thanks Uriah.
Excellent Video; however, I had trouble finding info on Automatic Transmission fluid changes (especially for 2006-2009 Miata NCs). On the Manual Trans. there are Fill and Drain bolt (top-Bottom 23mm and 24mm) BUT on an Automatic Transmission there is a 24mm Top fill bolt (on the side) and a regular Transmission Pan drain plug "under" the transmission with a 9/16 bolt. Also the Side Top Fill bolt has a "rubber" washer gasket (NOT a crush washer) so just snug it to keep it drain coming out (wouldn't torque it hard). My 2007 Car Manual calls for JWS-3309 Trans fluid and I found three types on EBAY/Amazon...Mazda Fluid, Aisin ATF-OT4 and Idemitsu ATF Type M. Also the Automatic Transmission takes three and 1/2 quarts to fill. The rear Differential has two bolts 23mm fill and 24mm drain (both with crush washers and torqued to 25-33 ft lbs). I used Redline 75w90 gear oil..took less than 1 quart.
Thanks for sharing ;-)
I ran a quart of ATF and took care of like two oil leaks on my car and switched from rotella T6 (the holy grail apparently) to 10W30 and it hasnt made any noise since. 150k mile 1.6l
Cool, thanks for sharing Clayton.
I have found these gearboxes to be quite sensitive to cold temperature viscosity. There can be a huge difference in cold temperature performance for a bunch of different 75W90 oils. Penrite Pro-Gear 75W90 GL4 for example is very thick @ 40C which means it will be incredibly thick on cold sub 10 degree C mornings. Redline MT90 is thinner @ 40C than the Penrite oil.
I had Penrite in my gearbox and it was super stiff just moving out of first, and it felt like there was a physical barrier blocking 2nd until I drove for a bit.
Nulon 75W85 has excellent cold shift performance and feels good at operating temp.
The Ford/Motorcraft oil is only slightly thicker than the 75W85 at cold temps but is thicker at operating temps, so should offer a bit more protection.
If cold shifting is an issue where you live then it would pay to look at a few different gear oils product data sheets and look for an oil that has a relatively low viscosity @ 40C but sufficient high temp viscosity for protection depending on what kind of driving you do. If you do a lot of track driving cold shift performance might not bother you or you can deal with it. But for a daily driver/commuter I would avoid the super high viscosity stuff.
Thanks for sharing this information Jake.
Definitely over the years I have seen/heard many people describe similar experiences to yours, different oils present varied experiences for the gearbox. The box does appear to be quite sensitive to oil choice.
I've recently tried some Amsoil GL4 stuff and it's been rather nice.
@@Bbeavis I have got some of the Motorcraft oil on the way for my ND, at 40C it is only slightly more viscous than the thinner Nulon 75W85, but is thicker at 100C so in theory should offer better high temp protection with a minimal difference in cold temp shifting.
I think there are also differences in the tolerances in each gearbox as some people have said their ND gearbox has always been 'butter smooth' and others have said it's always been notchy, almost to the point of crunchy, although this could also be due to the ambient temperature where people live. One person might closer to the equator and keep their car garaged, so the gear oil is never that cold and as such is closer to an optimum temp for smoother shifting. Someone who lives in a colder climate and keeps their car outside overnight could experience stiff shifts even with lighter oil.
Once mine is warm, with either the 75W85 or 75W90 its a firm shift with a bit of tactile notchiness and a fun sounding gear whine when accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear.
I daily drive mine with the occasional country road blast here in NSW, so I'm happy with the protection of a 75W85 for now but would be happier with a 75W90 that has good cold shift performance.
I am starting to believe the factory fill, Mazda's special long life gear oil IS is actually a 75W80 or a 75W85 but have yet to find a data sheet for it. The factory fill diff oil is the Hypoid gear oil SG1 which is a 75w85 oil.
The thinner oils seem to be in line with the thin 0W20 they spec in the engine for fuel economy.
Some good points.
Agree 100% that weather and driving style impacts this.
I ended up moving to a sightly thicker 5w30 engine oil from my ND, as we have some pretty cold weather in Melbourne.
A lot of times you are better off using 5w30 over 5w20 because the mfg recommendation is just to get that extra 0.05 mpg to help meet economy standards, not because it's better or even as good at lubricating engine parta. Not sure if that's the case with the NC recommendation but probably.
Thanks bubba, probably true, similar for ND and their rather thin oil ratings.
Very helpful just got a nc3 mk3 2015 mazda mx5 just the sport 5 speed silver black soft top
Nice hope the car treats you well!
@@Bbeavis thank you
the best trasmission oil for NA and NB 5 or 6 speed still the Ford GL4 transmission oil. US part number is : XT-M5-QS, in AU/NZ its : WSD-M2C200-C
Thanks for sharing Yuchen :)
BEAVIS Motorsport No problem, and it’s also called “the magic juice” in Miata community
I'd like to warn everyone about using Royal Purple in your Transmission. A couple people I know (myself included, NB) that have grinding noises after using Royal Purple. Maybe we're just unlucky, but I'd steer clear of using it!
FungiSoup thanks for the feedback, do you know ehat royal purple product it was in particular?
If I still have the bottle (and I can find it) I'll let you know! I'll look for it tomorrow.
legend says he's still looking for that bottle till this day
Good to know, Thanks
I've heard the same from others who have used Royal Purple in other makes of car trans.
I've used Red Line MT90 75-90, GL-4 synthetic in my 2008 NC 6 speed for 10 years and have smooth shifts.
Good video, the music volume and it overlapping with the other music was a bit distracting.
Thanks for watching.
Damn you triggered all the automatic drivers.. you daredevil! Question tho, I've changed my blinker bulbs to LED ones and I can't find the right fluid! What should I do?
You're in luck my friend, LED bulbs don't need blinker fluid! :-D
Thanks man! I was so worried.. I got DOHC ones you know.. can't have them running lean!
Hello... I drive an 94 MX 5 NA Miata 1.8L (only when the weather is nice), now 30 years old and has done 160,000 km. What kind of engine oil would you recommend? Thanks, Hardy
Assuming it is driven on the street only, then a quality brand 5W-40 synthetic.
The dislikes are for the loud music with vocals, still though an informative vid.
Thanks Jack, I tend to avoid adding music in the videos a lot more these days.
Interestingly, none of the major oil producers quote a gearbox oil for a manual MX5 NC gearbox. They only quote engine and diff oil. GL4 is widely available and I have seen that using it as gearbox oil in the MX5 will result in sluggish gear changes when cold. What specific oil - brand/type, does Mazda quote in their service schedules? Also, the gearbox change lever turret requires the (separate) oil change that can only be accessed from inside the car.
The owners manuals don't seem to dictate oil brand/type for the NC transmission, only the replacement interval, which depending on the model is around 60,000miles/100,000kms. Certainly specs are GL-4 75w90 for the trans, GL-5 75w90 for the diff.
@@Bbeavis As far as I understand, GL4 is suitable for bush bearing gearboxes and GL5 for more modern needle roller/ball bearing 'boxes although GL 4 can be used for those also, GL5 should not be used in gearboxes that specify GL4. That implies that the GL4 oil is formulated for good shear performance and GL5 for adhesion and maybe that is the source of 'stickiness' experienced by some. The problem is exacerbated by various top brands only prominently displaying the viscosity index i.e.75W-90 in the same manner on both versions and leaving the GL4/GL5 identity for the small print. I doubt many garages/parts department/oil vendors even know or care about the subtle difference between the two versions so its not surprising that confusion and bad experience abounds. As said, none of the premium brand product selectors quote the transmission oil for the gearbox, which adds to the uncertainty.
I started using Rotella T6 engine oil in my 1995 NA, and it has never run better. The ticking sound completely went away.
Great, thanks for the suggestion Adventure Mazda.
My mechanic (official Mazda mechanic in my country) started using 10w60 in my nb. I only burn noticeable amounts of oil above 4500rpm. 230k km. should I keep using 10w60?
If you drive the car in a warm climate, or perhaps a lot of spirited driving such as track days... and/or if you trust your mechanic - then 10w60 might be appropriate for you.
I'd usually only use something like 10w50 or 10w60 for a track-dedicated car that sees high temperatures.
@@Bbeavis thank you so much! Greece I’d say has a pretty warm climate and the mechanic should be the best there is for miatas around here.
Apparently the recommended oil weights vary from country to country as my 97 engine in America is 10W-30 and my manual tranny takes 80W-90. This is how it comes from the factory in Hiroshima, Japan, what it says in the manual, and according to Moss Miata (which I trust).
That is true, they do vary, always best to use your better judgement and often for warmer climates or older engines, a thicker weight oil is recommended.
Just so you know, we always buy a Miata with an automatic. They are the best! Wouldn't have a manual. Of course I only have my one right leg, so it would be tough doing a clutch, but even if I had two good legs, I would still get the automatic, you know, so my wife and niece can drive it!
I am in a somewhat similar position. I have an automatic ND MX-5 so my wife can enjoy the car everyday.
5w30 is a bit light for an NA. Specs indicate 10w30 to 30deg c, 10w40 or 50 over that.
5w30 is for really low temps, sub zero in an NA.
According to manufacturer specs.
The specific values can vary depending on where the vehicle was sold, always best to use your better judgement and refer to the manual supplied with your vehicle... and often for warmer climates or older engines, a thicker weight oil is recommended.
ditto '99 NB - factory manual calls for 10-30 above 32*F
everybody ive spoken to recommends rotella t6 15w-40 for engine oil. whats your opinion on this? have you heard it before aswell?
Personally I wouldn't fuss too much about a specific brand name. Provided the specs are correct, and the brand is reputable (i.e not some no-name brand with questionable quality) then you should be safe. Any new oil is better than old oil.
Just change my ND gearbox oil with Penrite Pro Gear Full Synthetic 75W-90 as recommended by Repco. It's now a bit notchy when cold. What viscosityis the Mazda long life oil recommended in the owners manual? Are you doing a video on piston return springs?
According to the manual: "If Mazda Original Long Life Gear Oil IS cannot be obtained, use standard oil (API Service GL-4 (SAE 75W-90))" So in theory as long as it's a quality GL4 to the spec weight, it should work well. From memory, Penrite does a GL5, but not sure they do a GL4.
Probably need to check out a different channel for piston return springs, perhaps "ChrisFix", sorry John.
Nice videos! The diff guide was great as well! What's your opinion on Rotella T6? Thanks
Hey, Not sure on the Shell Rotella, it's not common here in Australia, certainly hard to find it at our typical Auto stores. I'm sure it'd be suitable though - it's a modern synthetic. Thanks for watching Mad Miata!
Nice, I appreciate the response!
something not covered:
what oil belongs in the tochigi fuji diffs? are oils with friction modifiers preferable?
I am sorry Mr Waffles, but I'm not sure what oil is ideal for the TFS differential centre. If you have your mazda owners manual, perhaps it states the ideal product to use. Otherwise try your local mazda dealer for a suggestion.
Under the hood of my 92 it says for trans fluid 75W90 GL4 or GL5.
Yep that more or less matches this videos suggestion also.
nice. on my haynes manual it says i can use GL4/5 on my NC 5 spd thou. But the 6 spd says GL4 specifically
NC's are a mystery.
@@Bbeavis Local garage refreshed my NC3.75 turbo 6 speed gearbox with, it turns out, a generic semi-synthetic 75/90 which "works" for GL4/5. Brendan says FULLY synthetic and GL4 ONLY (5 speed may be different). The gearbox failed on the next track day. To be fair to the box I had a new driver with me who didn't rev match and just dumped the clutch, and I have a feeling the car may have had a (weaker) NC1 box put in it at some point, and we did thrash it all day, keeping up with cars with the same power but better suspension and grip. PUT THE RIGHT FLUID IN PEEPS. Don't let your local garage or their motor factor guess what's best.
Is a Mobil 1 equivalent available for the blinker fluid? And how about for the OEM muffler bearings? My NB is still 100% stock.
Ohhh, I've never replaced my muffler bearings!!!!
I've been using 10W-30 in my 1.6 NA, 190,000km. it's winter where I live right now, about 16c. Is the cold viscosity too thick and hot too thin?
That's certainly not a bad choice. And for an older 1.6 a slightly thicker cold viscosity like you are using might be necessary. But if its only 16c in winter then you probably live in a warmer climate (what are your summer temps like?) as such a thicker hot viscosity may help, maybe try a 10-40 next time?
Got a question. I’ve heard that in miatas switching to synthetic isn’t really necessary, but I like synthetic oils since they’re definitely superior. I went from a Mercedes to a Miata and like the idea of switching to synthetic but is it really worth it??
In my opinion there is no downside to using synthetic oil, other than the small cost premium. Yet there are a variety of benefits. I see no reason not to use at least a reputable semi-synthetic that best suits your environment and car/driving style.
What kind of blinker fluid would ya recommend for my car
I literally showed that in the video.
What about cooling oil??? NAT ,OAT, or HOAT ??
Sorry I don't know what those acronyms(?) mean. But i am sure there's lots of good discussions on miataturbo.net around oil coolers that you can get your teeth stuck into.
Which one is the best choice for 3.90 torsen ,motul lsd 75w 90 or motul 75w140?
Thanks
A torsen centre should use a 75 90 weight oil.
Great Vid :) I take it 15w-40 is was to heavy for a 1.6 miata then
Yeah maybe a bit thick heavy when cold. If you aren't living somewhere really hot, try a 5-40 next time.
I have an NB Miata with a built engine running aprox 310HP on the engine.
I run 15W50 ( Fuchs Titan Race Pro ) for the engine and Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the Gearbox as well as the Diff (Torsen 2, 3.9 )... And I live in the Netherlands...
It have always run this combination of oils (also in my RB26, R32) with no issues.. But when i watch this video you're saying i'm using the wrong oils :p So Am I ?
Hey if it's working for you, then all good! I'm not saying you're running the wrong oils, this video offers the most common suggestion. Maybe you could run a lower winter weight in the engine , like a 5W-50 ?
Samm Dijks 310HP??? Man I bet it pulls nicely, did you put the car on a diet as well?
Great video !
Thanks Clinton!
I've just bought someone else's unfinished project. It's a 89 1.6 with a T25G running 9psi. It's only going to see track work, should I still stick to 5W30? There's talk online of 15w50 which seems high but this is my first track car and I absolutely DO NOT trust the old owner
Given it's a track car & turbo - I'd suggest a high quality oil with a weight of 5w40 or 5w50. It's likely to get hot on track so a 5w50 is a good idea.
Any brands you suggest? I was aiming for penrite 10tenths but the closest they do is 10-40 :/
Castrol Titanium do a 5w40 which I wouldn't hesitate to use in my car. For my track NB i run 10w50 Penrite
Good video! May i know why you shown the gearknob crooked alignment when talking about using wrong gearbox oil? Is that a sign of failing gearbox? Mine wiggles around anticlockwise about 45 degrees
The one in the video just needed to be tightened up. If it moves around, it's probably worn bushes inside the gearbox shifter turret.
Hahaha blinker fluid, actually had a guy pull that on my girlfriend, she laughed in his face and said sure find me some and I will buy it!
Haha, thanks for watching Nick! Sounds like you've got a clever girlfriend.
She sounds like a freak.
Love the savage Star Wars reference :)
Thank u :)
I’m new to the Miata life with my 2001 miata, so my question is does it usually that long for the car to fire up? (About 2:20 in your video) seems unusual to me. I’m doing some maintenance and checking everything to make sure the Miata will have a long happy life
A stock engine with OEM ecu will usually start much quicker and easier. That was footage of the freshly built turbo engine starting for the first time. So, its not unusual for it to be a bit slower to start.
Great video, thanks!
My pleasure!
I have a bottle of 75w 90 gear oil but with friction modifier. label says to be used in clutch tpye LSD. Can I use it in nd LSD diff?
Hi David, without knowing more specifics on the oil you have I believe as a generalisation that would be safe to use.
These are the specs as specified by Mazda:
Rear differential oil - Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1 75W-90
Rear differential oil capacity (approx. quantity) - 0.6 L {0.6 US qt, 0.5 Imp qt}
@@Bbeavis Thanks a lot
Short and simple video! Great job. Would you recommend going fully synthetic for a 1993 NA 1.6L? I have a very slight lifter tick on cold startups and long idles. And what would your thought be on using an engine flush additive?
I'm no mechanic so cannot say for sure, but personally see no reason why you wouldn't choose a synthetic. I don't have much experience with engine flush products, personally if you keep oil change frequency up then you should be fine without the need for a flush.
So should I use 5w-30 for a turbo miata on 7psi of boost?
I'd usually run a slightly heavier weight on a turbo car. 5-40 or 10-50 maybe
Im running 1996 1.8 miata. all original(except valve cover gasket and small other things), nothing fancy. Best oil for me is a semi-synthetic high mileage oil. 5w-30. I tried full synthetic and its too thin for the rubber gasket. It make the engine swet. The car have 137 000 KM. Never winter driven.
I have heard stories of situations with older motors with seals that have "worn in", where they have changed the type of oil used in the engine, and the difference in minerals/additives is enough of a shock to the seals that it causes leaks.
Mobil 1 claims to have synthetic oil with additive to help gaskets from leaking...
Then, what's the brand oil you use ?.
hi, i live in switzerland, just bought my mazda mx5 1.6liter NB 1999. so our temps in winter is max -30 celsius and max +35 celsius. i want to drive it the whole year. i want to drive it to work (short distance only 10min drive but 6times a day and at the weekends hard and sometime cruising. for long distance i have a diesel to save money... so my question is wich oil you recommend? can yo help me please :) i will post a video from my MX5 later, than i will edit this comment if you want :)
Hi Gowsiganaudio, this video answers your question, 5w-30.
What blinker fluid is used for the na miata? 😂😂 nah I’m just joking that was funny.
The one with the glitter in it :)
Thanks Brendan!
I used the Penrite 75-80 in my NC 6 speed gearbox but the changes have been between "notchy" and "difficult", especially when it's cold. I want to try something different.
People sing the praises of Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS (I've no idea what the "weight" of the oil is) which used to be on Ebay but not now. Because the changes are slightly better when it's warm I've been told to use a thinner oil and Dex 3, the automatic transmission fluid was suggested.
Besides Ford Motorcraft, one of the forums these were suggested:
Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL-4
Amsoil MTG 75W-90 GL-4
Motorcraft XT-M5-QS 75W-90 GL-4
Any ideas???
I've been using a Fuchs 75W-90 oil in my trans and have found it nicer than the penrite I was using previously. Try that next time perhaps?
@@Bbeavis
UPDATE:
My cousin suggested Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 and it has made a massive difference to my NC 6 speed!!
After 200ks, l can say that 1-2 is HEAPS better and the rest (which weren't that bad) are also better. I'M STOKED and hoping there's more butter coming.
While it was on stands l put 5W-30 Castrol Edge in the motor and now it starts easily, idles smoothly and sounds lubricated.
Cheers
Eric
Hey, I just bought a 1992 na 1.6(about 160000km), the car is previously in Sydney and the owner use 15w40, I'll bring the car to Melbourne which should I use? 5w40 or 10w40? Thanks.
Hi Yue, 10w40 might work better for an older 1.6 engine.
@@Bbeavis Thanks a lot! Cheers!
@@Bbeavis how about a 1994 w/ 60k miles, (1.8)?Texas weather here (summer 80-100, winter 34-67)
@@Nicole-ju8fd As per the video xKimika
We don't serve your kind in here had me dying
:-D
Hey Beavis how come you chose the Penrite 75w-85 instead of the Penrite 75w-90 pro gear or trans gear oil, was it purely because the 75w-85 was GL4?
Yes, that is exactly why. The penrite 75-90 'trans-gear' (semi synth) and 'pro gear' (full synth) are both GL5.
BEAVIS Motorsport Cheers, thanks for the reply. So for a stock 1.6 the pro gear would be suited for an open diff then?
Yeah that'd be perfect.
BEAVIS Motorsport Sweet thanks a lot for the help
Anytime!
What about NBFL Tochigi Fuji diff?
Good question, owners manual still seems to indicate the same 75w-90 GL-5 as per the torsen or open differentials.
Should I change from the 0w20 on a Supercharged ND? (daily driver)
Run whatever you think makes sense, you've supercharged your car so the suggestions of the owners manual are kind of moot now.
Hi Brendan, what's the benefit of 75W-85 in your transmission instead of the 90? Is there any difference in shift feel?
Hi Bryce, I opt for the Penrite synthetic because it is a premium product, high quality, and mostly matches the spec required for the Transmission. I change it frequently and believe the 85 vs 90 is negligible in this case.
2019 ND in the UK: Mazda manual says "recommended oils "Mazda original supra 0w-20 & Mazda original ultra 5w-30"
If you could, please could you explain the difference between the two/why they recommend two different types.
And what you would recommend for the UK, low's of -5c + or - and highs of 30c + or - if we're lucky.
Used as a "nice day" car, so mostly driven in the warmer months, but not ruled out driving in colder months if the weather was fine.
Also, is the "Mazda original supra 0w-20 & Mazda original ultra 5w-30" the same as other brands? I'm assuming the oil viscosity is the only thing that matters here, not if it's a different brand, right?
Many many thanks!
I cannot say why Mazda chooses to recommend certain oils. That is for their engineers/experts to explain.
Perhaps the oil suppliers pay a royalty to have their brand in the owners manuals?
The general consensus is the colder the climate, the "lower" numbers you you can with your oil, so likely for the cooler weather of the UK, 0-20 would be more suitable I would presume.
Differences in brand are mostly negligible, provided they meet the same specs and weight as specified by the manufacturer. So, use Castrol, Mobil, Shell, whatever oil brand your parts store sells, as long as the specs on the bottle match your owners manual.
@@Bbeavis okay thank you very much for the response!!
so what temps would you be recommending 5w-30?
as that is in the recommended spec/weight section along side 0w-20
many thanks! :)
@@TheShubbah I cannot definitively say "XX temp = YY oil viscosity", that's Mazda's decision I suppose. I personally think if your weather rarely hits over 30degC, and commonly is in the low teens, then 0-20 makes more sense. If you see high 30's-40degC, then 5-30 would be more suitable for the ND engines at this point.
@@Bbeavis thank you for your insight master yoda!
have a nice day :)
How about 10w-40 vs. 10w-30 for California year round daily driving a 1999 1.8?
10-40 would be fine, particularly on a higher milege car, or in a warmer climate.
@@Bbeavis Thank you for the information! Much appreciated!
my '99 factory shop manual calls for 10-30 for temps above freezing page 01-50...
Hey mate, what is your opinion on Penrite 10tenths “racing” oil? I want my engine to last forever and don’t mind spending a bit more if it’s worth it.
I have used the 10tenths in the past, however personally I change my oil very regularly, and find that a slightly less expensive but still premium grade oil is good enough for me. My engine isn't overly exotic and the additional cost seems unnecessary for me given the 'normal' 10-50 full synth from Penrite is ~30% cheaper.
BEAVIS Motorsport tend to agree. Cheers mate
sad, I needed info about the AT, good video thou
Sorry Lobi I don't have any specific information for the auto trans in this case.
Lobi Perez sell it and buy one with a manual shifter, makes a lot more fun 😉
I just installed forge pistons and rod, what kinda oil should I use ?
In that case, speak with your engine builder to find their recommendation on the right oil for your specific application. When you start building an engine for performance, the Mazda recommended OEM spec oil may no longer be ideal.
With the rear Torsen type 2 diff do you need to have an lsd additive
No it takes the same oil as a standard MX-5 open differential.
Mazda ND: what do you thing about Mobil 1 0W-40? Always my prefered fully synthetic motor oil in other cars. Unfortunately it doesn't have approval by Mazda ... :-/
I think that would be fine although potentially a little thick when hot? Probably OK if you live it a hotter area where your oil is always heating up quickly.
Thanks for your answer! I'm living in Germany were we have moderate cold winter times and during the last few years relatively hot summers. 0W-40 is covering a broad range of temperature. That's why I wondered when I read that Mazda recommends a 0W-20 oil for the ND. I don't want that ... :-)
Modern engines have tight tolerances, so they need thinner oil. Go with what Mazda says. They have tested their engines to the max...
Anyone else having issue's with their 2017 mx5 burning the extremely thin 0w20 mazda oil? It's burning about 1 qt every 5000 miles!
If you are in a hotter climate, the suggestion from Mazda as per the owners manual is a 5w-30 or 5w-40 oil. That is what I usually use as we get rather hot summers, and rarely freezing temperatures.
@@Bbeavis we get about mid 90s sometimes right at 100° with high humidity in NC around summer. I'll go with 0w20 this time since its winter and switch to 5w30 around spring next year.
@@ryanchristensen1799 Good choice. Good luck!
You got a like at 3:40!
I hope you are a Star Wars fan 82 :-)
Does it matter if I use EP or not?
Sorry, EP?
Doesn't synthetic oil damage the rotary engine because its less flamable and therefore leaves far more deposits? Or is it just a mith?
I'm not sure about it being "less flamable", but yes my understanding is that the choice of oil for a rotary engine is important, and that typical synthetics are not the best option.
Blinker fluid heh nice.
:-D :-D
10W-40 on BP4W in Greece because of warm climate.
Yep sounds like a good decision :-)
Woah they made a 99 na? I forget that the uk has a nb with the 1.6 na motor in it🤦
Some markets around the world received the option of a 1.6lt engine in the NB.
Many have GL4/5 can i use this in both transmission and diff
Yep often some oils meet both standards.
I think 0w20 is too thin for Australia summer Mazda au never recommended 0w20. 5w30 is a better choice.
0w20 is Mazda's recommendation for most markets. Climate and the type of driving (or how hot the engine gets) should effect the choice of oil. I think 0w20 is acceptable for the winter months here in Melbourne where it's rather chilly. And wouldn't hurt to move to 5w30 for Summer.
@@Bbeavis In Germany Mazda dealers use both engine oils for the ND. Some fill in 4W-30 others 0W-20. Even though it does get very hot here all that often (and not as hot as in AU anyways).
@@Noxoreos Thanks for your feedback.
I hope Afra hasn't seen the comment about autos?!
She SHOULD see it, to learn of her mistakes.
But you forgot to mention where should we add blincker oil! For those who are searching it like me: add it to your battery, if workshops around you are bunck of chimps who cannot stop laughing if tou mention blinky oil, you can make it yourself!: 1x engine burnt oil(solid grade, 50) 3× hydraulic pump oil/fluid finalli 2x holy water(boil it in your refrigerator, then put it back into liquid, using foreskin of a jewish priestess (the more you add, more orange color reveals!). Then pour all of it into all 7 battery holes, if you have only 6 holes in your battery, go and find the battery dealer, then pour the liquid in his hole!
Please share, shall the signal ticket and jewish priest extinc togather! 😅😅😅😅😂
C'mon it's Just a joke!
Haha, thank you for the recipe.
30 years of conflicting workshop manuals from Mazda and aftermarket. 30 years of conflicting information from reliable sources. There will never be a consistent answer to GL4 or GL5 for the gearbox.
I guess somewhat the nature of any industry, there's going to be a variety of opinions and changes in technology/materials that may also influence peoples views. But I've generally seen Mazda's MX5 manuals to be consistent.
My 92 NA says "GL4/GL5" but I've seen other NA and NB manuals which say just GL4. I decided to use GL4 😅 It seemed good to do a flush anyway, the GL5 I initially put it was black after literally 3 minutes of driving. This car had sat for a while before I recently bought it.
You didn't say how often.
How often should you service your car? I guess that depends on the owner and the type of driving. But roughly every 7,500kms or 4,000miles or at least every 12 months.
Decent video. .but background music is anoying and distractin during naration..
Thanks for watching Dennis. I'll try to dial back the music for the future :)
Blinker fluid, haha!
Glad you enjoyed!
my 300k miles 1.6 gets what 20w50
Yeah, older engine - leakier - thicker oil.
Whoever doesn't like this drinks plain LeCroix
I concur! thanks brad.
What can I say when we don’t have MT nc in China. That’s stupid.
Sorry to hear that!
I think you are screwing with people re Blinker Oil....I never change my blinker oil and have never had a problem in hundreds of thousands of miles....So see! You do not need to change it!....Well maybe racing, I can see where that could be a whole lot of lane changes ....but for most normal MX=5 drivers? Heck I hardly even use mine anyway! Just dumb to give away one's intentions if you ask me.... around civilians anyway....these little guys already lack passing power to begin with so stealth is super important! BTW old school blinkers used a stinky dashpot fluid unlike modern units using long chain digital oil... for the old vehicles though best to stick with Allen-Bradley 810-N9C High Viscosity Dashpot Fluid....but good luck finding the digital fluid for MX5s! Since the pandemic that stuff is so hard to find....and if you do decide to change the digital fluid? Make sure NOT to get any on your skin!!
"Allen-Bradley 810-N9C High Viscosity Dashpot Fluid" - you are a funny chap Nigel.
@@Bbeavis Yes but like I say Newer vehicles would use digital blinker oil
And the US has some weird recommendation for some runny shit.
I guess because they can have some cold temps in winter?
@@Bbeavis it's for Cafe ratings, also 0-20w really isn't going to make the difference in cold weather.
arse biscuit im waiting outside for you
Ohhh.
Take the music out of the background.....
Hi David, Sadly the video is what is it is now and I cannot really change the music, you can always dial the volume down, and/or turn turn on the subtitles. Thanks for watching.
I grovel in jealousy that ausies and americans get amazing autostores and here in the UK we have Halfrauds which serve us no options and crap stuff at double the price
Damn, sorry to hear Nicolas, I would've thought UK would at least have a similar offering to AU... particularly given the population density is in your favour.
I can't believe you refused to talk about what ATF fluid to use.... you can be very sure I won't subscribe... talk about "professionalism"...
Ok, its just a youtube video mate, calm down.
@@Bbeavis yeah well you get the drift...I happen to have an automatic 2001 Miata and it's easily the best car I have owned, and quite frankly I love the fact it's an automatic, I was born and raise in a country where stick shifts were all we had, and Ive owned them all my life, it's a pleasure not having to deal with driving stick.... just my opinion, and I was disappointed with the lack of info...
@@Bbeavis ruclips.net/video/-l2FM8C9PcU/видео.html
@@schlippery1 Yeah, but you're complaining about the "professionalism" of a kid who made a RUclips video in his bedroom... how immature are you?
I was going to give you a thumbs up until the blinker fluid...
Awwww... I hope he video was helpful none the less! Thanks for watching classic... Hope I still deserve that thumbs up!!!?
BEAVIS Motorsport, Yes you did a good job on this video.
I just don’t see the need to make people feel dumb...
Please don't consider it making people feel dumb, it was just a joke! Perhaps Aussie humor isn't translated well to your part of the world?
BEAVIS Motorsport, I know it’s a joke. A funny one too.
You can say anything you want and I can give thumbs up, or not... Anyway, blinker
fluid was Chris Fix’s joke...
BEAVIS Motorsport, It was helpful to some, I guess...