Boy I can definitely relate to how you feel. Working out in a cold garage, snot dripping down your nose, all out of breath frustrated as hell, but determined to get the job done. I tell you though.. I've had some tough drums and rotors. I've even broken a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on a stubborn axle nut, but this video definitely takes props. Well done sir!
Hears a tip. When the bolt on the puller gets tight put on a doner socket over the forcing screw and hit it with a hammer. That goes with anything using a puller or press.
Many thanks to you Sir! I'm about to push the Amazon button on an OTC hub puller. I am the original owner of a 1998 F150 4WD Lariat Flareside std cab pickup with the right CV axle seized in the hub assembly. Discovered this issue in the course of replacing upper & lower ball joints on this vehicle with 111K miles. Got both uppers and left lower changed, but the right lower ball joint change prevented by the seized axle. I tried the local auto parts stores' loaner hub puller tools and they were all utter schitt, so now I'm buying the highest rated hub puller I could find. This has got to be the finest testament to an OTC tool ever committed to video. OTC should pay you for this wonderful advertisement! This is real gem of a YT video. Thanks again Joe.
You've got my vote on not giving up well done sir other than the frustration of buying/ordering hard to find tools and parts you have gained very valuable knowledge on this repair
I had to keep watching just to see if he got it. How many of you mechanics were feeling more anxious the longer it went? 14:29 is like a mechanical orgasm !!!! Way to hang in there dude!!! I would have been cussing up a blue storm around the 10 minute mark, then danced a little jig once it finally came loose. (Proven fact, the more you swear, the faster the hub ....bolt, nut, screw .... whatever.... breaks loose.)
I had a seized axle finally got it out with a hub puller like u did. But the problem was that in my effort to remove it nicked one of the splines inside the hub. So now I had to get a new hub, but than I questioned if while pulling the hub off, the race on the bearing comes out, I'll have to replace the bearing too so than I got a new bearing.....an easy job turned into a nightmare for me
Food for thought. When removing anything with a puller or press, find a spot on the hub face, knuckle, or whatever that is holding the part captive and after you have pressure on the part to be moved, smack that hub face, knuckle, etc like it owes you money. Apply more pressure and smack it again. Some people even smack the end of the forcing screw. Minimum two pound hammer. Penetrating oil on the part to be moved and the forcing screw also helps. I like watching these videos where people overcome challenges.
I tried a hammer drill that worked five years ago on the passenger side cv axle. It did not work on the driver’s side cv axle today. Gonna order the hammer wrench as a last resort. Great video!
Bro, I went through every emotion watching this video. I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearings and I had the unfortunately realization that I don't have the right tool to pull the hub assembly off the axle. Thanks for this full walk through and the details of your experience removing the hubs!
Thank you so much for this! It helped tremendously and save me a ton of money. It took me about an hour to get it out with this method after spending a couple days on it. I was able to save the axle too.
I remember when wheel bearings were simple and took, maybe, half an hour to replace. Including the inner races. I guess this is what "progress" looks like. I just wish that progress wasn't so difficult, time consuming, and much more expensive.
Those axles sure can become tight and extremely difficult to remove. However, in the video on this particular occasion, the main problem was the wrong choice of tools and method of removal. The puller is absolutely necessary, of that there is no question. This was the only correct decision. The first mistake was failure to heat the axle housing. Not supporting the lower control arm was the second mistake. This allowed the suspension to move with each strike of the hammer. This absorbed much of the shock, which operation of this type relies on. The third mistake was to use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar, together with a cheater bar. The correct hand tools to use would have been a 3/4" impact socket installed on a short 3/4" extension, together with a solid 90 deg, bend handle, extended with a suitable cheater bar. The short extension would be needed so the tool string could be supported by a jack stand in order to reduce tendency for the socket to tilt on the pulling screw. The remover pulling screw itself would be required to be liberally lubricated with a suitable heavy duty grease. (NOT WD 40 or any other similar product). This is to prevent galling of the thread on both screw and puller body. Had methods as outlined above been utilised, the job would have been much simpler, faster and definitely considerably safer. One more very important aspect. He was kneeling in direct line of the pulling screw, while the tool was under extreme strain and loading. In the unfortunate event of a component failure, the result would have been devastating. Apologies for a long posting. Cheers from a D. Eng. in Indonesia.
I have worked on my 2009rav 4 rotors and hub bearing. Each one has been a beast to work on. The front pasenger axle and bearing seperation is testing me. Good video. Thanks
We've all been there!! I like the logic, buy tools and risk wrecking something yourself before you pay the mechanic to wreck it for you. Then you have the tools for next time.
Sounds like you need lube on the tool. 3 feet should work, one on every other lug puts you in the center. Another aid, hit the screw of the tool every so often to pop the axle some and remove the pent up stress.
next time you get a seized axle like that, DO NOT hit handle with sledge hammer, you will bend the center screw, or something else, the best way i do it, is use a impact gun, until it tightens up, then hit it right on top of the center screw with a 4 pound hammer,, and it will loosen, repeat steps, impact gun, then hit with hammer on drive screw/bolt.. works every time, says a mechanic 32 years exp.. nice try
Wow, good job, sick and everything. I would have given up and removed the knuckle. Either put that on my 20K press or removed the axle with the bearing and replaced both.
That is a very difficult job but an impact gun and a air hammer makes it much easier. Turning the bolt on the puller with an impact helps to jar the bond apart. Also occasionally go in between the fingers of the puller with an air hammer and jar the end of the axle
Same situation but in my case I Replaced The axel the knuckle the hub and bearing as a whole piece before That you, have to disconnect the entire knuckle from the car then pull the axel grabbing the knuckle without removing the axel nut . Then install a used but good conditions axel,knuckle ,hub ,bearing, as one piece From a junk yard cheap solution less headache less stress. I live in a apt building so I can’t do mechanic job also working in the streets you may get a ticket so I just adjusted to my situation and I found it easy
I've had many stuck bearing hub assembly's.First make sure all the bolts that hold the hub on are removed. (Usually there's 3) Then Remove the axle nut and soak the splines with PB Blaster. heat the front of the hub with a propane/map/acetylene torch in a circular motion around the axle shaft. if it doesn't come off repeat. I have soaked them and heated for 2 days on and off but they always break loose. Patients! Also no expensive puller is needed, I flip the brake rotor over and beat on it with a lead hammer. Hope this helps.
Does that put undue stress on the pinion, and carrier gears? I would have used my Makita cutting wheel and sliced that hub down the middle just before it would start to cut the axel. That hub would have come off like butter. Cudos on your repair though. Lots of elbow grease. Another thought would to use a blowtorch, turn that hub glowing red and then use the puller.
All that work you could have just removed rear assembly then pulled it as one unit taken it a work bench with a vice then use a drift punch and pound it out if you own a press you could also do it that way.
Did not use any WD 40 ??? That normally helps You are right about the jack .under the hub for support ...remove the spring in the hammer stroke Good job . you krpt at it .
you can rent hub pullers $10 a day. or free from O'Reilly's and AutoZone. also when it's tight hit the end of the puller bolt . that shocks it personally I like heat and beat method
Could've also spent $25-30 on impact sockets if you had an impact gun if not you could've used a ratchet with a cheater bar as well, would've made that job a lot easier.
Thanks for the video I appreciate it I have the HD version but have yet to use it but you gave me the idea to buy the other set thanks again also good job this axles can really be a pan in the ass
Really good video! I was removing my hub on a 2003 Dodge 3500 4 x 4 using the same puller you used in your video. The hub came apart at the bearing leaving the piece with the 4 bolt holes still tightly connected to the knuckle. Can I use the bolts and the front axle to pull out the remainder of the hub with out damaging anything?
Nice video man. Fuck the haters. People don’t realize how stuck some of them can really be... especially with the chemicals they put on the roads these says... But I do have some advice for you.. just safety wise- please keep your face and upper body, and your body in general(don’t get in the floor with it) away from that contraption.. it could go at ANY moment and trust me they can really fly off when they do. But otherwise thank you for sharing!!
I've had the axle & hub assembly taken out together and even in a 20 ton press the corrosion just laughed in it's face. A compressor would blow up before an air hammer would ever touch some of these.
The hammer wrench is a gimmick, that's why it's not inc w/ the HD version. Once you have max tension your supposed to strike the hex directly with the sledge to shock it. Add tension and repeat. And this is where you need 3/4" drive tools, especially when you need a cheater bar that size.
Yeah if I do a rough calculation it looks like your probably imparting anywhere from 1500 Ft lbs of torque probably up to 3000 ft lbs of torque on some hits. The best 1" can probably hit at 1900 ft lbs of torque if properly plumbed, oiled and new. Yet again for you to lift that hammer and hit it again and again it takes you a lot longer than what and impact gun can do. I'd assume it could do the job. But unless your job is automotive repair your not dropping $400 on a impact gun your buying the sledge hammer and anvil as you did. Good work!
@@ClaudRasberry Lets say at best from the axel center to the hitting point is 6 inches. Therefore whatever impact force is hit at the anvil is divided by 2 to equal the foot pounds imparted. The impact gun 1 inch can impart 1900 Ft Lbs. Therefore, he has to impart near 4,000 pounds of impact force to the anvil to equal the 1" impact gun. it is the same as dropping the 10" hammer 2 meters onto the anvil. So yea hitting that anvil with over 4k lbs of force is probably doable.
@@kartboarder22g17 am actually a mobile Mechanic for yourmechanic.com and I never figured I would need a 1 inch impact until now. Am in the north and spent hours hitting shit, and walking away from a job I couldn't complete. So I will be investing in the Milwaukee 2867-20 , but may still wait for a gun with more power....might just use it 2 to 4 times a year....but I just rather have the tools I need.
Boy I was cringing when you were right in front of that thing under so much pressure, especially when you were lined up with the family jewels. Good job getting it done but please be more careful
Step one: take out all bolts. Step two: press axel shaft out of wheel bearing while pulling the wheel bearing out of mount. Some times you have to let other people save you from your self.
... Priceless
In the future, grease up the threads of your hub tool; it'll perform better and last longer
Thanks for your contribution
Boy I can definitely relate to how you feel. Working out in a cold garage, snot dripping down your nose, all out of breath frustrated as hell, but determined to get the job done. I tell you though.. I've had some tough drums and rotors. I've even broken a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on a stubborn axle nut, but this video definitely takes props. Well done sir!
This is one of the most painful videos I've ever seen in my entire life....definitely not an easy task.!!
Hears a tip. When the bolt on the puller gets tight put on a doner socket over the forcing screw and hit it with a hammer. That goes with anything using a puller or press.
The hex is actually machined to be able to strike it.
After a lot of striking it would have to be re ground. To get the socket back on.
Many thanks to you Sir! I'm about to push the Amazon button on an OTC hub puller. I am the original owner of a 1998 F150 4WD Lariat Flareside std cab pickup with the right CV axle seized in the hub assembly. Discovered this issue in the course of replacing upper & lower ball joints on this vehicle with 111K miles. Got both uppers and left lower changed, but the right lower ball joint change prevented by the seized axle. I tried the local auto parts stores' loaner hub puller tools and they were all utter schitt, so now I'm buying the highest rated hub puller I could find.
This has got to be the finest testament to an OTC tool ever committed to video. OTC should pay you for this wonderful advertisement! This is real gem of a YT video. Thanks again Joe.
You've got my vote on not giving up well done sir other than the frustration of buying/ordering hard to find tools and parts you have gained very valuable knowledge on this repair
might want to invest in some air tools!!! I have one of those pullers and the impact was a lifesaver
THAT job would make a Preacher cuss LOL
I had to keep watching just to see if he got it. How many of you mechanics were feeling more anxious the longer it went? 14:29 is like a mechanical orgasm !!!!
Way to hang in there dude!!! I would have been cussing up a blue storm around the 10 minute mark, then danced a little jig once it finally came loose.
(Proven fact, the more you swear, the faster the hub ....bolt, nut, screw .... whatever.... breaks loose.)
Thanks. I've been building a 99 grand prix with over 290,000 miles and am at that point. The hub just stares at me. Glad you've crossed that bridge.
I’ve been in that boat with my 02 impala. Wheel bearings are the next and hopefully final project
I had a seized axle finally got it out with a hub puller like u did. But the problem was that in my effort to remove it nicked one of the splines inside the hub. So now I had to get a new hub, but than I questioned if while pulling the hub off, the race on the bearing comes out, I'll have to replace the bearing too so than I got a new bearing.....an easy job turned into a nightmare for me
Food for thought. When removing anything with a puller or press, find a spot on the hub face, knuckle, or whatever that is holding the part captive and after you have pressure on the part to be moved, smack that hub face, knuckle, etc like it owes you money. Apply more pressure and smack it again. Some people even smack the end of the forcing screw. Minimum two pound hammer. Penetrating oil on the part to be moved and the forcing screw also helps.
I like watching these videos where people overcome challenges.
You have no idea how much this video helped!! Had the same problem and couldn't figure it out. Thank you 🙌
That axle coming loose is like winning the lottery lol.
Bro I’ve tried everything to get this mother fucker out. So if it ever comes out I believe it.😂
I tried a hammer drill that worked five years ago on the passenger side cv axle. It did not work on the driver’s side cv axle today. Gonna order the hammer wrench as a last resort. Great video!
Bro, I went through every emotion watching this video. I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearings and I had the unfortunately realization that I don't have the right tool to pull the hub assembly off the axle. Thanks for this full walk through and the details of your experience removing the hubs!
I really do appreciate your video and non stop footage.
Never could understand why the auto makers would not use an anti seize compound during assembly. On key parts e.g. Hubs, bleeder screws & the like.
Thank you so much for this! It helped tremendously and save me a ton of money. It took me about an hour to get it out with this method after spending a couple days on it. I was able to save the axle too.
I remember when wheel bearings were simple and took, maybe, half an hour to replace. Including the inner races. I guess this is what "progress" looks like. I just wish that progress wasn't so difficult, time consuming, and much more expensive.
great workout and i know for sure you're glad you saved that extra money, must feel good.
Why not put a pipe over the hammer wrench?
Those axles sure can become tight and extremely difficult to remove. However, in the video on this particular occasion, the main problem was the wrong choice of tools and method of removal.
The puller is absolutely necessary, of that there is no question. This was the only correct decision. The first mistake was failure to heat the axle housing. Not supporting the lower control arm was the second mistake. This allowed the suspension to move with each strike of the hammer. This absorbed much of the shock, which operation of this type relies on. The third mistake was to use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar, together with a cheater bar.
The correct hand tools to use would have been a 3/4" impact socket installed on a short 3/4" extension, together with a solid 90 deg, bend handle, extended with a suitable cheater bar.
The short extension would be needed so the tool string could be supported by a jack stand in order to reduce tendency for the socket to tilt on the pulling screw.
The remover pulling screw itself would be required to be liberally lubricated with a suitable heavy duty grease. (NOT WD 40 or any other similar product). This is to prevent galling of the thread on both screw and puller body.
Had methods as outlined above been utilised, the job would have been much simpler, faster and definitely considerably safer.
One more very important aspect. He was kneeling in direct line of the pulling screw, while the tool was under extreme strain and loading. In the unfortunate event of a component failure, the result would have been devastating.
Apologies for a long posting. Cheers from a D. Eng. in Indonesia.
You're totally right
Nice 👍🏼 !
Hey, man , I am going to take off my 92 Honda captive rotor soon and I thought it is tough before seeing yours! Thank you.
That was like watching a good suspense movie!
I have worked on my 2009rav 4 rotors and hub bearing. Each one has been a beast to work on. The front pasenger axle and bearing seperation is testing me. Good video. Thanks
We've all been there!! I like the logic, buy tools and risk wrecking something yourself before you pay the mechanic to wreck it for you. Then you have the tools for next time.
be sure to apply anti-seize to the splines when re-installing in case you have to replace the hub again so day
Sounds like you need lube on the tool. 3 feet should work, one on every other lug puts you in the center. Another aid, hit the screw of the tool every so often to pop the axle some and remove the pent up stress.
He starts working at 6:29
I know, I was like, is this guy going to talk me to death or what?!! Lol
That ... was ... AWESOME !!! Thx.
i have same one, you have to use iumpact gun, then wack it with a hammer on the stud of the puller
next time you get a seized axle like that, DO NOT hit handle with sledge hammer, you will bend the center screw, or something else, the best way i do it, is use a impact gun, until it tightens up, then hit it right on top of the center screw with a 4 pound hammer,, and it will loosen, repeat steps, impact gun, then hit with hammer on drive screw/bolt.. works every time, says a mechanic 32 years exp.. nice try
Wow, good job, sick and everything. I would have given up and removed the knuckle. Either put that on my 20K press or removed the axle with the bearing and replaced both.
That is a very difficult job but an impact gun and a air hammer makes it much easier. Turning the bolt on the puller with an impact helps to jar the bond apart. Also occasionally go in between the fingers of the puller with an air hammer and jar the end of the axle
How would you jar the end of the axle with the forcing screw already pressed against it. Did you even watch dummy.
Same situation but in my case I Replaced The axel the knuckle the hub and bearing as a whole piece before That you, have to disconnect the entire knuckle from the car then pull the axel grabbing the knuckle without removing the axel nut . Then install a used but good conditions axel,knuckle ,hub ,bearing, as one piece From a junk yard cheap solution less headache less stress. I live in a apt building so I can’t do mechanic job also working in the streets you may get a ticket so I just adjusted to my situation and I found it easy
I've had many stuck bearing hub assembly's.First make sure all the bolts that hold the hub on are removed. (Usually there's 3) Then
Remove the axle nut and soak the splines with PB Blaster. heat the front of the hub with a propane/map/acetylene torch in a circular motion around the axle shaft.
if it doesn't come off repeat.
I have soaked them and heated for 2 days on and off but they always break loose. Patients!
Also no expensive puller is needed, I flip the brake rotor over and beat on it with a lead hammer.
Hope this helps.
Just buy a wheel bearing press kit and... Out she goes!! Lol
How does that work with axle in the hub splines dum ass@@thomasbergman442
i did my wheel bear hub a few months ago using a puncher and hammer to lossen it then a gear puller with an impact wrench to do the rest.
Buy a Press Machine and take out the Knuckle and put it under the press , it is very easy that way .
You created a mechanical impact wrench
I knew he's no quitter.
Bought hub buster - $110 i spent is really worth it - i hit it with 5lb steel mallet 5x and hub goes off .
I do appreciate you for this video
It's the video I spent 11/2 hrs looking for
I'm calling for a ride home thank you
Does that put undue stress on the pinion, and carrier gears? I would have used my Makita cutting wheel and sliced that hub down the middle just before it would start to cut the axel. That hub would have come off like butter. Cudos on your repair though. Lots of elbow grease. Another thought would to use a blowtorch, turn that hub glowing red and then use the puller.
For quicker job, Torque Multiplier is your friend. Not to mention a bigger impact airgun would make short work of this.
The right tool formula
Pb Blaster and a slide hammer with a hub adaptor
Hub shocker would win easily
Lol, been a licensed mechanic for years. When you got a cheater bar that big you're in trouble lol!
Thank you very detailed
i wonder how a 1 inch drive would fair though... as opposed to the typical 1/2 inch drive
My heart is with you I cannot get this rear yaris hub off. If I kept hammering the neighbours will complain.
If you're not working late at night, tell your neighbors to pack sand where the sun don't shine.
All that work you could have just removed rear assembly then pulled it as one unit taken it a work bench with a vice then use a drift punch and pound it out if you own a press you could also do it that way.
Did not use any WD 40 ???
That normally helps
You are right about the jack .under the hub for support ...remove the spring in the hammer stroke
Good job . you krpt at it .
Thanks for sharing this video.
you can rent hub pullers $10 a day. or free from O'Reilly's and AutoZone. also when it's tight hit the end of the puller bolt . that shocks it personally I like heat and beat method
Always hard is good job, well done, I hope you are well
Good deal...your persistence paid off!!
Get a hub buster. Wroks great
thats a strong tool to take that hammering
All you need was the otc puller and a cp 3/4 impact. And you could you pull anything off.
Not always
Persistence is ones' greatest attribute. Well done!
awesome video, I wanted to see the whole hub com out, oh well.
Respect your energy and willpower but there are breaker bars with a 3/4" drive. Would likely be better than hammering the tool.
Good job man!!
Guess no one told him about air hammers
Could've also spent $25-30 on impact sockets if you had an impact gun if not you could've used a ratchet with a cheater bar as well, would've made that job a lot easier.
Thanks for the video I appreciate it I have the HD version but have yet to use it but you gave me the idea to buy the other set thanks again also good job this axles can really be a pan in the ass
I can feel the frustration
Really good video! I was removing my hub on a 2003 Dodge 3500 4 x 4 using the same puller you used in your video. The hub came apart at the bearing leaving the piece with the 4 bolt holes still tightly connected to the knuckle. Can I use the bolts and the front axle to pull out the remainder of the hub with out damaging anything?
Been there done that better off replacing the axle with the Hub if it's that badly stuck and seized won't be long in that axle be going out
Going thru the same mess with my truck smh this might be the answer i been looking for
Less talk more action
Nice video man. Fuck the haters. People don’t realize how stuck some of them can really be... especially with the chemicals they put on the roads these says...
But I do have some advice for you.. just safety wise- please keep your face and upper body, and your body in general(don’t get in the floor with it) away from that contraption.. it could go at ANY moment and trust me they can really fly off when they do. But otherwise thank you for sharing!!
I'm 58,had a bunch of vehicles. None of them have ever been this bad. Guess I'm lucky.
In the northeast this is common.
holy crap...that thing was stuckkkk
Should have put the pipe over the hammer wrench
That is nuts, hope you lubricate that screw too yikes!
Did you try spraying it with BP blaster 1st
Is it coming off or not?
You didn't do anything but jibber jabber. You said it was coming off so, take it off!
Wow all that when you could have just used an air hammer to get that axle loose. I thought you were trying to pull the hub off?
I've had the axle & hub assembly taken out together and even in a 20 ton press the corrosion just laughed in it's face. A compressor would blow up before an air hammer would ever touch some of these.
Yes, it's a car that pulls from behind, so you have to disassemble the differential to remove the complete bar, it doesn't work like that.
put a floor jack under it and lift it
Heat the axle with a torch on the outside and hub been there done it and a HD slide hammer live and learn
The hammer wrench is a gimmick, that's why it's not inc w/ the HD version. Once you have max tension your supposed to strike the hex directly with the sledge to shock it. Add tension and repeat. And this is where you need 3/4" drive tools, especially when you need a cheater bar that size.
Have you try using rattle gun instead of sludge hummer.
Pipe wrench big one and that hammer would do job faster and cheaper
Well done!
wow stubborn, hope mine wont be that bad
I bought that excact tool years ago for my car.Almost $300 for a tool that's I rarely used 😢
Honestly you would maybe need the 1" impact gun for this one.....
Am sure the hammer is applying more force than the gun could possibly ever can
Yeah if I do a rough calculation it looks like your probably imparting anywhere from 1500 Ft lbs of torque probably up to 3000 ft lbs of torque on some hits. The best 1" can probably hit at 1900 ft lbs of torque if properly plumbed, oiled and new. Yet again for you to lift that hammer and hit it again and again it takes you a lot longer than what and impact gun can do. I'd assume it could do the job. But unless your job is automotive repair your not dropping $400 on a impact gun your buying the sledge hammer and anvil as you did. Good work!
@@ClaudRasberry Lets say at best from the axel center to the hitting point is 6 inches. Therefore whatever impact force is hit at the anvil is divided by 2 to equal the foot pounds imparted. The impact gun 1 inch can impart 1900 Ft Lbs. Therefore, he has to impart near 4,000 pounds of impact force to the anvil to equal the 1" impact gun. it is the same as dropping the 10" hammer 2 meters onto the anvil. So yea hitting that anvil with over 4k lbs of force is probably doable.
@@kartboarder22g17 am actually a mobile Mechanic for yourmechanic.com and I never figured I would need a 1 inch impact until now.
Am in the north and spent hours hitting shit, and walking away from a job I couldn't complete.
So I will be investing in the Milwaukee 2867-20 , but may still wait for a gun with more power....might just use it 2 to 4 times a year....but I just rather have the tools I need.
Of course these don't work for non-driven hubs. The struggle is real.
26" pipe wrench and the sledge hammer 2 good whacks and out she comes.
Boy I was cringing when you were right in front of that thing under so much pressure, especially when you were lined up with the family jewels. Good job getting it done but please be more careful
GEEEEZZ, after watching this, I would charge $2000.00 LOL, you want to sell that setup @ a discount???
that tool bounces on every blow - lower the rotor to the slab
I would have supported the puller with a jack.
hey take the sock you have broke off then use high impact wrenches come right off
use heat on it then hit the axel in and it well get lose
Step one: take out all bolts.
Step two: press axel shaft out of wheel bearing while pulling the wheel bearing out of mount.
Some times you have to let other people save you from your self.
didn't you lube those threads?
I'm sure he did.
I would recommend adding lube after every turn of the nut (you've exposed new threads for the fluid to penetrate)
I just use a pipe wrench for $6.99 and a $14.97 sledgehammer. 3 whacks and it was off