FOOTNOTE THE SMALL TENSION PULLEY IN THE FRONT IS MADE OF SOFT ALUMINUM. IF YOU ROUND OUT, LIKE I DID, USE A LARGE SLIP JAW PLIERS THERE IS A TAB ON THE TENSION PULLEY; USE IT AND THE NOSE OF THE ARMATURE AND YOU CAN SLIP ON THE BELT. PUT THE BELT AROUND THE CRANKCASE PULLEY 1ST AND THEN SLIP IT ON THE OTHER PULLEY.
Hey, I wanted to add a few more things to my last question. First, thank you so much for your feedback, I greatly appreciate your in depth answers and willingness to try to help me get it running. The most important thing I guess I feel like I should say is, the car ran fine, the belt broke one day, I had it towed back to my place. My friend went and got a tensioner pulley from a turbo which was slightly different, and when we tried to start it without knowing, it went into ‘a vehicle shutdown mode’ which it said on the dashboard when I tried to start it. I only have a remote to unlock the car and everything was disabled even that. I couldn’t unlock the doors or anything. So, we finally got the right tensioner pulley, got the belts on exactly like you did, and it struggled to turn over. I’m going to upload a video of what it sounded and looked like on my channel so you can see. Again, thank you for everything sir. I believe truly that it’s a small fix. The battery is drained somewhat from sitting for a long time, but it’s brand new. The video I’ll upload now and look forward to your comment. Thank you again sir.
Your problem might be the same one I had a long time ago. On your passenger side lay on the floor and look up under the dash. If the felt sound deadening material is in place remove it to get to the fuse panel. Now looking at the panel you'll see some wire looms going into it. The connectors on the wire looms have a latch that holds them tight into the fuse panel. Bumps or even someone accidentally kicking their foot up under the dash can knock these loose even though they look like that are in securely one of them might not be. The slightest little bit loose it will lose connection and your car will have the problems you described. Similar problems I had and I secured one latch and my car started right up everythingwas working again. Check to see if all the latches are secured and then try starting your car again. Let me know how you make out.
Don't waste your time trying to install the belt if the t50 is broke, It's almost impossible. You'll just hurt yourself or break something else trying to pry against something and also there isn't any room to pry in there. You don't realise how much force the spring in the tensioner puts on the belt. It's a lot more than you can apply anywhere on the tensioner to get it to move enough to get the belt on. The tensioner is easy to unbolt and replace. Rockauto.com is probably one of the cheapest places to get a replacement tensioner or Call your local auto parts stores to get it sooner. I'd say get one cheap out of a junkyard but the pulley is non- replaceable so if the pulley goes bad you are right back where you started. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question and good luck.
So my buddy and I replaced the tensioner, and got both belts on, but car won’t turn over now. Tries to start but check engine light comes on. Car fights to turn over but won’t start up
@@lukechambery3135 Was the car running before you changed the tensioner? Did you drive or run it without the belt on? The inside belt runs the alternator, without the belt it doesn't charge the battery. Sounds like you could've ran the battery dead or maybe left the key on to run it dead. Start with the easy stuff first. If you've got a volt meter, check the battery, should be 12.6 volts or higher. If it isn't at the minimum 12.6 volts put it on charge to bring the voltage up. Or get jumper cables and jump start it.
I was driving the car and the belt broke. When we went to change the tensioner, previous owner or someone had broken T-50 torch site. Changed out tensioner, belts on properly, but doors had been open with dome lights on to where it might’ve slowly killed the battery. But the battery is brand new. I just bought a couple weeks ago
Hey, I was wondering what the specs are on the belt for the late model 2004 S40, because I have been given the wrong belts for certain pulleys. I’m gonna go step by step again on your video and try to figure it out. But if you wouldn’t mind disclosing the belt sizes, saying front belt, back belt, I’d appreciate it
Easier yet would be go to www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ Look up you car and you should be able to find the correct belts and use that info to get the correct belts wherever you bought yours.
Also I was wondering if there is a way to adjust the tensioner pulleys tightestness. Because car was working fine, then belt broke. Replaced tensioner pulley due to T-50 broken off. Now car struggles to turn over. Very close, but won’t turn over
No there isn't any way of adjusting the tensioner puller. If you've run your car any sort of time without a belt is sounds like the alternator belt is the one that broke. Everything on volvo is electric, fuel pump, ecm, powersteering etc etc. Running your car a short time without a belt can still kill your battery. Sounds like that's the reason it won't turn over, your battery needs to be charged or get a jump start.
I made a similar reply a few months ago and I think that you’re somewhat right. Except the battery is brand new. That’s why I was asking about the specs on the belts. Because there was 2 S40’s released that year and the guys at Napa or O’rielllys auto parts have sold me one belt when I told them I needed the other. And they are so close in size, that the car would still turn over if the wrong belts were on the wrong pulley. Although quickly obvious it was the wrong belt. I live in Oregon so it rains here a lot and the next day it’s dry I’ll go step by step like thru your video and see if I can figure it out. I greatly appreciate your help sir, and I’ll let you know.
Do you have a voltmeter? Hook one up to the battery terminals. The voltage of a battery is a good way to determine the state of charge. Here's a breakdown: State of ChargeVoltage 100% 12.7 - 13.2 75% 12.4 50% 12.2 25% 12.0 Discharged 0 - 11.9 If your battery is: Reading 0 volts, chances are the battery experienced a short circuit Cannot reach higher than 10.5 volts when being charged, then the battery has a dead cell Fully charged (according to the battery charger) but the voltage is 12.4 or less, the battery is sulfated Sulfation is the natural byproduct when the battery discharges. Naturally, re-charging the battery will reverse the sulfation crystals and turn it back into electrolyte, ready to produce power again. But if a battery sat, uncharged, severely discharged, and/or drained for extended periods of time, the sulfation will increase in size and harden onto the plates. This covers the surface area of the plates, removing the chemicals needed to produce power. Sulfation decreases the potential to reach a full charge, and it self-discharges the battery quicker than normal. Charging a sulfated battery is like trying to wash your hands while wearing gloves. At this point, charging alone will not restore the battery to a healthy condition. The majority of replacement battery purchases occur when the original battery has reached this point. I hope this helps.
A serpentine belt breaking should not in any way stop the engine from starting and running. The volvo engine can run without them, the serpentine belts run the air conditioner and the alternator to keep the battery charged. Without the belts the air conditioning won't work and if you keep running it. The battery will die because it won't charge without the belt. What caused the belt to break In the first place? Serpentine belts are very tough to break, was it an old belt? There's a possibility that when the belt broke that it damaged a wire or a connector while it was spinning around and that could be why your car isn't starting. Check for damage to wires or connectors in the areas around the serpentine belt. Or When it broke did the belt wind itself up around anything, like the crank pulley? There's also a possibility if the belt wound itself around something, the engine could have stopped suddenly and damaged the timing belt. Pull the timing belt cover off the top of the engine and make sure it's rotating. If it isn't you're going to need a lot more than a timing belt. If it is you should check to see if your timing belt jumped time. It doesn't take much to tear the rubber teeth off the timing belt. These are my guesses and It's hard to diagnose over the internet without looking at the car. I hope this helps and good luck.
Zero Fuel Required it was a new belt routine maintenance and new alternator... it started fine then it just broke but ok I’ll check for other damages the broke belt may have caused
Mine has actual chunks missing out of it, from engine oil pissing all over it, due to the myriad of leaks I have which are likely being caused by the PCV system being totally plugged-up.
I wonder if I can message you somehow. I took a video of my car, after replacing the belts. Car struggles but won’t turn over. Even with a jump. It’s only a 40 second video. Let me know. I’d greatly appreciate it
How many miles are on your car? That will give me an idea of the age of the starter. Is the battery fully charged? If you had a battery load tester you could check the condition of your battery. Harbor freight the y are cheap or take your battery to the local auto parts store they should be able to load test your battery to tell you if it's still good or not. If you ran the car any time without the belts the batter could be dead. The Volvo is an electric hog with electric power steering and will. Kill a battery quick without an alternator charging. Check the cheap stuff first' charge the battery, clean the battery terminals, load test the battery. If the battery checks out good it should turn the car over easy and start. If not then there is a poasibility the starter is going bad. Go to the "about" section on my channel. You can view my email. Send the video to my email. You might have to send it in 2 parts a lot of emails will only send 20 seconds or less. I hope this helps.
So my buddy has a DTC reader and while I had it in auxiliary it came up as P1719 Severity:low Powertrain, MFG, Transmission fault:19 However, the batter is brand new but as sat a decent portion of the summer, albeit has run hear and there. But the belt broke and we go to change it, and we notice the T50 torx on the bottom of the pulley has broken in half. So because my friend in all of his -‘I know how to do everything infinite wisdom’- ended up getting the wrong belt tensioner for my Volvo. I figured that out very simply because they’re completely different than the Turbo! So that was the reasoning behind it struggling but not turning over. I ordered the CORRECT pulley, followed your directions to the tee, and nothin. I should say the whole we with we were we On the car we were charging it the whole time with his car so I don’t think the battery is dead. The starter has always been fine. I mean it sit During summer while I ride my motorcycle, but other than that I get you somewhat regularly My Volvo is the 2000 for late model 2.4 L with 146,734 ODM
P1719 is a generic fault code. It translates to TCM-0A31, which is for communication with the ECM to the TCM. All of those codes translate to a similar code. There is a communication problem between the ECM and TCM. I have seen a few TCMs on those cars fail. A more advanced scanner will be needed to sort this out. A dealer will be needed anyway to program the new module if it winds up needing an ECM or TCM. P1719 corresponds to TCM-0A31. P0600 can correspond to either , TCM-0A01, TCM-0A30 or TCM-0A31. P0725 corresponds to TCM-0A30. All of these regard communication with the ECM. The system used to properly scan and diagnose the Volvo is called VIDA. It is is computer software that uses a communication tool called the DiCE to communicate with the car. There are almost certainly more communication codes that will help narrow this down, but you'll need VIDA and a DiCE About the best you can do at this point is check the fuse for the TCM (F23 under the hood, 10 amps) If the ECM and TCM are not communicating, then the car won't start. The ECM is located under the black plastic cover on the air box assembly, between the radiator and the engine. The air filter is on the passenger side of the air box and the ECM is on the driver's side If it needs an ECM, you'll just need the VIN for the dealer to look it up. They will need the car to program it though anyway I would strongly having it diagnosed by them, however. The ECM is not a very common failure and would be a pretty expensive. And the ECM is programmed to the car so a used one won't work. Without seeing all the codes in the network, I can't say for sure but based on experience, the TCM is more common of a failure. I have not seen an ECM fail on these cars. The TCM is also programmed to the car, but a used one may still work. I've never tried a used one though. TCM is right on top of the transmission, where the shift cable connects. Please keep in mind that this is not likely something that will be easy to fault trace over the internet without the proper OEM equipment though, it's a slim possibility that this fault code originates from a dead or dying battery.
Before you spend the money at a dealer. Start with the cheap stuff first, check the fuse, Double check that your battery is still good and is putting out at least 12.6 volts, anything less it needs to be charged(anything less than 11 volts the battery may be bad). Your friends car may not have a good alternator and might not put out enough of a charge to charge your car and his. Buying a cheap battery load tester for your tool box amzn.to/2D7ftrT - (affiliate link) will help you diagnose if your battery is still good or not. Also a cheap battery charger will have the battery fully charged instead of guessing if it's charged or not amzn.to/35uFCNR -(affiliate link) this charger will charge and maintain your battery by leaving it plugged in, if you aren't using you car or motorcycle for long periods of time. If you just bought your battery in the summer. The auto store where you bought it should be able to load test the battery to verify if it's still good and if not they'd be able to replace it under warranty. I hope this helps.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
FOOTNOTE THE SMALL TENSION PULLEY IN THE FRONT IS MADE OF SOFT ALUMINUM. IF YOU ROUND OUT, LIKE I DID, USE A LARGE SLIP JAW PLIERS THERE IS A TAB ON THE TENSION PULLEY; USE IT AND THE NOSE OF THE ARMATURE AND YOU CAN SLIP ON THE BELT. PUT THE BELT AROUND THE CRANKCASE PULLEY 1ST AND THEN SLIP IT ON THE OTHER PULLEY.
Hey, I wanted to add a few more things to my last question. First, thank you so much for your feedback, I greatly appreciate your in depth answers and willingness to try to help me get it running. The most important thing I guess I feel like I should say is, the car ran fine, the belt broke one day, I had it towed back to my place. My friend went and got a tensioner pulley from a turbo which was slightly different, and when we tried to start it without knowing, it went into ‘a vehicle shutdown mode’ which it said on the dashboard when I tried to start it. I only have a remote to unlock the car and everything was disabled even that. I couldn’t unlock the doors or anything. So, we finally got the right tensioner pulley, got the belts on exactly like you did, and it struggled to turn over. I’m going to upload a video of what it sounded and looked like on my channel so you can see. Again, thank you for everything sir. I believe truly that it’s a small fix. The battery is drained somewhat from sitting for a long time, but it’s brand new. The video I’ll upload now and look forward to your comment. Thank you again sir.
Also, my Volvo is a 2004 2.4L late model. Not 2000 like I said in other comment
Your problem might be the same one I had a long time ago. On your passenger side lay on the floor and look up under the dash. If the felt sound deadening material is in place remove it to get to the fuse panel. Now looking at the panel you'll see some wire looms going into it. The connectors on the wire looms have a latch that holds them tight into the fuse panel. Bumps or even someone accidentally kicking their foot up under the dash can knock these loose even though they look like that are in securely one of them might not be. The slightest little bit loose it will lose connection and your car will have the problems you described. Similar problems I had and I secured one latch and my car started right up everythingwas working again. Check to see if all the latches are secured and then try starting your car again. Let me know how you make out.
great video, clear and concise, camera on a tripod. very useful thank you. liked for sure
Cool video!. My crankshaft pulley seems to be wobbling as well. Should i replace that too?
Thanks for this Video. Are they using the same size of Torx driver(T60)?
Wait you found your 10mm socket? Amazing! Can i borrow it? I will put it back when I'm done..
can you do a video on the timing belt please
Thank you wery much! Dat work is good for everyone piople
I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Thank you. No accurate belt diagrams can be found online
Hey, I went to go change me belt and the T50 on the second belt you pulled off is broken. Any chance you can get the pully back by hand?
Don't waste your time trying to install the belt if the t50 is broke, It's almost impossible. You'll just hurt yourself or break something else trying to pry against something and also there isn't any room to pry in there. You don't realise how much force the spring in the tensioner puts on the belt. It's a lot more than you can apply anywhere on the tensioner to get it to move enough to get the belt on. The tensioner is easy to unbolt and replace. Rockauto.com is probably one of the cheapest places to get a replacement tensioner or Call your local auto parts stores to get it sooner. I'd say get one cheap out of a junkyard but the pulley is non- replaceable so if the pulley goes bad you are right back where you started. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question and good luck.
If the belt is still on and you're replacing the belt. The t50 slot is broken, just cut the belt to get it off instead of fighting with the tensioner.
So my buddy and I replaced the tensioner, and got both belts on, but car won’t turn over now. Tries to start but check engine light comes on. Car fights to turn over but won’t start up
@@lukechambery3135 Was the car running before you changed the tensioner? Did you drive or run it without the belt on? The inside belt runs the alternator, without the belt it doesn't charge the battery. Sounds like you could've ran the battery dead or maybe left the key on to run it dead. Start with the easy stuff first. If you've got a volt meter, check the battery, should be 12.6 volts or higher. If it isn't at the minimum 12.6 volts put it on charge to bring the voltage up. Or get jumper cables and jump start it.
I was driving the car and the belt broke. When we went to change the tensioner, previous owner or someone had broken T-50 torch site. Changed out tensioner, belts on properly, but doors had been open with dome lights on to where it might’ve slowly killed the battery. But the battery is brand new. I just bought a couple weeks ago
Hey, I was wondering what the specs are on the belt for the late model 2004 S40, because I have been given the wrong belts for certain pulleys. I’m gonna go step by step again on your video and try to figure it out. But if you wouldn’t mind disclosing the belt sizes, saying front belt, back belt, I’d appreciate it
Easier yet would be go to www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/
Look up you car and you should be able to find the correct belts and use that info to get the correct belts wherever you bought yours.
Also I was wondering if there is a way to adjust the tensioner pulleys tightestness. Because car was working fine, then belt broke. Replaced tensioner pulley due to T-50 broken off. Now car struggles to turn over. Very close, but won’t turn over
No there isn't any way of adjusting the tensioner puller. If you've run your car any sort of time without a belt is sounds like the alternator belt is the one that broke. Everything on volvo is electric, fuel pump, ecm, powersteering etc etc. Running your car a short time without a belt can still kill your battery. Sounds like that's the reason it won't turn over, your battery needs to be charged or get a jump start.
I made a similar reply a few months ago and I think that you’re somewhat right. Except the battery is brand new. That’s why I was asking about the specs on the belts. Because there was 2 S40’s released that year and the guys at Napa or O’rielllys auto parts have sold me one belt when I told them I needed the other. And they are so close in size, that the car would still turn over if the wrong belts were on the wrong pulley. Although quickly obvious it was the wrong belt. I live in Oregon so it rains here a lot and the next day it’s dry I’ll go step by step like thru your video and see if I can figure it out. I greatly appreciate your help sir, and I’ll let you know.
Do you have a voltmeter? Hook one up to the battery terminals. The voltage of a battery is a good way to determine the state of charge. Here's a breakdown:
State of ChargeVoltage
100% 12.7 - 13.2
75% 12.4
50% 12.2
25% 12.0
Discharged
0 - 11.9
If your battery is:
Reading 0 volts, chances are the battery experienced a short circuit
Cannot reach higher than 10.5 volts when being charged, then the battery has a dead cell
Fully charged (according to the battery charger) but the voltage is 12.4 or less, the battery is sulfated
Sulfation is the natural byproduct when the battery discharges. Naturally, re-charging the battery will reverse the sulfation crystals and turn it back into electrolyte, ready to produce power again. But if a battery sat, uncharged, severely discharged, and/or drained for extended periods of time, the sulfation will increase in size and harden onto the plates. This covers the surface area of the plates, removing the chemicals needed to produce power.
Sulfation decreases the potential to reach a full charge, and it self-discharges the battery quicker than normal. Charging a sulfated battery is like trying to wash your hands while wearing gloves. At this point, charging alone will not restore the battery to a healthy condition. The majority of replacement battery purchases occur when the original battery has reached this point.
I hope this helps.
I did that ... car started then one if the belts broke and now it crank but won’t turn over ... please advise
A serpentine belt breaking should not in any way stop the engine from starting and running. The volvo engine can run without them, the serpentine belts run the air conditioner and the alternator to keep the battery charged. Without the belts the air conditioning won't work and if you keep running it. The battery will die because it won't charge without the belt. What caused the belt to break In the first place? Serpentine belts are very tough to break, was it an old belt? There's a possibility that when the belt broke that it damaged a wire or a connector while it was spinning around and that could be why your car isn't starting. Check for damage to wires or connectors in the areas around the serpentine belt. Or When it broke did the belt wind itself up around anything, like the crank pulley? There's also a possibility if the belt wound itself around something, the engine could have stopped suddenly and damaged the timing belt. Pull the timing belt cover off the top of the engine and make sure it's rotating. If it isn't you're going to need a lot more than a timing belt. If it is you should check to see if your timing belt jumped time. It doesn't take much to tear the rubber teeth off the timing belt. These are my guesses and It's hard to diagnose over the internet without looking at the car. I hope this helps and good luck.
Zero Fuel Required it was a new belt routine maintenance and new alternator... it started fine then it just broke but ok I’ll check for other damages the broke belt may have caused
is this the d3 d4 d5 engine ? thanks
It's a 2009 2.4L
Have you seen the condition of my serpentine belt? Head on over!
Time for a new one. Luckily it didn't break And leave you stranded somewhere.
Mine has actual chunks missing out of it, from engine oil pissing all over it, due to the myriad of leaks I have which are likely being caused by the PCV system being totally plugged-up.
I wonder if I can message you somehow. I took a video of my car, after replacing the belts. Car struggles but won’t turn over. Even with a jump. It’s only a 40 second video. Let me know. I’d greatly appreciate it
How many miles are on your car? That will give me an idea of the age of the starter. Is the battery fully charged? If you had a battery load tester you could check the condition of your battery. Harbor freight the y are cheap or take your battery to the local auto parts store they should be able to load test your battery to tell you if it's still good or not. If you ran the car any time without the belts the batter could be dead. The Volvo is an electric hog with electric power steering and will. Kill a battery quick without an alternator charging. Check the cheap stuff first' charge the battery, clean the battery terminals, load test the battery. If the battery checks out good it should turn the car over easy and start. If not then there is a poasibility the starter is going bad. Go to the "about" section on my channel. You can view my email. Send the video to my email. You might have to send it in 2 parts a lot of emails will only send 20 seconds or less. I hope this helps.
So my buddy has a DTC reader and while I had it in auxiliary it came up as
P1719 Severity:low
Powertrain, MFG, Transmission fault:19
However, the batter is brand new but as sat a decent portion of the summer, albeit has run hear and there. But the belt broke and we go to change it, and we notice the T50 torx on the bottom of the pulley has broken in half. So because my friend in all of his -‘I know how to do everything infinite wisdom’- ended up getting the wrong belt tensioner for my Volvo. I figured that out very simply because they’re completely different than the Turbo! So that was the reasoning behind it struggling but not turning over. I ordered the CORRECT pulley, followed your directions to the tee, and nothin. I should say the whole we with we were we
On the car we were charging it the whole time with his car so I don’t think the battery is dead. The starter has always been fine. I mean it sit During summer while I ride my motorcycle, but other than that I get you somewhat regularly
My Volvo is the 2000 for late model 2.4 L with 146,734
ODM
P1719 is a generic fault code. It translates to TCM-0A31, which is for communication with the ECM to the TCM. All of those codes translate to a similar code.
There is a communication problem between the ECM and TCM. I have seen a few TCMs on those cars fail. A more advanced scanner will be needed to sort this out. A dealer will be needed anyway to program the new module if it winds up needing an ECM or TCM.
P1719 corresponds to TCM-0A31. P0600 can correspond to either , TCM-0A01, TCM-0A30 or TCM-0A31. P0725 corresponds to TCM-0A30. All of these regard communication with the ECM.
The system used to properly scan and diagnose the Volvo is called VIDA. It is is computer software that uses a communication tool called the DiCE to communicate with the car. There are almost certainly more communication codes that will help narrow this down, but you'll need VIDA and a DiCE
About the best you can do at this point is check the fuse for the TCM (F23 under the hood, 10 amps)
If the ECM and TCM are not communicating, then the car won't start. The ECM is located under the black plastic cover on the air box assembly, between the radiator and the engine. The air filter is on the passenger side of the air box and the ECM is on the driver's side
If it needs an ECM, you'll just need the VIN for the dealer to look it up. They will need the car to program it though anyway
I would strongly having it diagnosed by them, however. The ECM is not a very common failure and would be a pretty expensive.
And the ECM is programmed to the car so a used one won't work. Without seeing all the codes in the network, I can't say for sure but based on experience, the TCM is more common of a failure. I have not seen an ECM fail on these cars. The TCM is also programmed to the car, but a used one may still work. I've never tried a used one though.
TCM is right on top of the transmission, where the shift cable connects.
Please keep in mind that this is not likely something that will be easy to fault trace over the internet without the proper OEM equipment though, it's a slim possibility that this fault code originates from a dead or dying battery.
Before you spend the money at a dealer. Start with the cheap stuff first, check the fuse, Double check that your battery is still good and is putting out at least 12.6 volts, anything less it needs to be charged(anything less than 11 volts the battery may be bad). Your friends car may not have a good alternator and might not put out enough of a charge to charge your car and his. Buying a cheap battery load tester for your tool box amzn.to/2D7ftrT - (affiliate link) will help you diagnose if your battery is still good or not. Also a cheap battery charger will have the battery fully charged instead of guessing if it's charged or not amzn.to/35uFCNR -(affiliate link) this charger will charge and maintain your battery by leaving it plugged in, if you aren't using you car or motorcycle for long periods of time. If you just bought your battery in the summer. The auto store where you bought it should be able to load test the battery to verify if it's still good and if not they'd be able to replace it under warranty. I hope this helps.