Q41 - Outlander PHEV's AUX battery charges while parking!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Voltage of the 12V battery raises during parking while supplying the car's standby power! Quite obvious a charge, right?
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creativecommon...
Andy your car is possessed.
The auxiliary battery needs 12v min to power the system up without the enitial power you'll experience system failure and a host of error and service messages on the dash if you park up and sit with heaters on or air con the auxiliary battery will drain. The drive battery charges the auxiliary while the ignition button is in blue mode, I have had two such incidents the auxiliary battery is from 2014 so I think requires replacement....
Hi. Today I made a test too. The conclusion is that aux battery charges when PHEV is charging too or when PHEV is ON. I try to put volt meter always connected and a camera pointed to him to register the values when PHEV is OFF and no charging because, like I sayed, I suspect that aux battery can also charges sometimes when car is OFF. I pluged also a digital clamp meter to the negative battery cable and I confirmed that, in that specific moment there isn't pratically any current flows but when I turn on the interior 3 roof lamps I get 3.5A draw. When PHEV charges, I Saw also around 6A flow. Like with volt meter, the digital amo meter has auto Power off function to 15min and I couldn't turn this function off. Andreas, you must mesure the battery with clamp meter...
Thanks for testing Sérgio, much appreciated. I've put something together and will show this in the next episode this week. It's very interesting you will find. The auto pwer off is a problem with all these devices. They are not made for long term testing...
I've another digital voltmeter and I'll check if it has the auto power off function too. I'll try to use the positive plug in aux battery. If I use it, I can check volt and amp in the same space and it's more easy to check and register data.
If you press the power without the brake 1 time it goes to basic aux mode - mmcs only. Press power again with no brake it goes to enhanced aux mode - fully switched on except the motor.
Also consider if the car starts in Aux mode as Andy did here, then the electric vac pump doesn't turn on also thus making the break pedal very hard to depress...may be why he couldn't turn it off till he pressed hard on the pedal..hope this helps also...
I didn't start in Aux mode. I pressed the brake pedal and then Start with the result shown. I know how to cycle through the Aux/Full Aux/ Full On ...
The brake pedal was very hard to press for some reason (no vacuum for the booster?) and I thing I didn't press hard enough to trigger the brake light switch. Weird anyways as the car also did not turn off any more...
Maybe Have another look at your raw footage...there was no "ready" light on the LHS econo meter in the first scene but other dash lights were on...somehow you were in Aux mode OR a failed ready mode...either way the break pedal would be hard as a rock with no vac pump cutting in... I have had this before...really have to stamp on the break pedal to reset press power ...ready light comes on ..good to go!..even have had this on a diesel Triton with button start. cheers...
Hi Andy,
The voltage rise, was definitely something weird, and also being low after you drove was also.
Maybe you are on to something there, wouldn't it be great if it was something easy to replace that would fix
all the woes.
I have had the EXACT same issue a couple of times with the car not powering on/off properly....the exact scenario.
I find that if I hold the Power button down until it goes off it generally "resets" and starts and runs OK afterward.
I'm a computer technician with my normal job, so can imagine its bootup process just like "Windows" has a fail
once in a while.
Happy Measuring....Andy :~)
The weird thing was that the break pedal was hard as concrete to press, there was no vacuum available for the booster. I think that was the problem as I could not step onto it far enough to operate the brake light switch which gives the signal to the ECU to start the car. Strange enough that I could not turn it off either though...
Same with me, though I'm pretty sure the brake pedal only takes the smallest of movement to operate the brake light and signal ECU, I tend to think
it's more of a software glitch, luckily its recoverable, hate to get stuck on the side of the road with that issue !!!
Hi Andy, my and wife was invited by our friends to join them celebrate their wedding anniversary on the Saturday with some other Filipino friends with their kids . I drove up to this place from 6:45am till 10:45am. In the afternoon my friend wants to see the inside of the car and when I turn it on, it won’t turn on. It is a PHEV 2014. Because it was a very hot day I opened the windows all day but the car was definitely switch off obviously. We were just next to the car all day from 10:45 am and when I tried to switch it on at 14:00 it refused to switch on. My friend said just let the car key next to switch engine which I did and press the button for about 10 seconds and it has turn on and I was relieved but then it has died once again . I called for a recovery which he did managed to turn the engine back on and I tested it by driving around and it looks promising as i drove for about good 3 minutes until there was no power to pull the car. The dashboard was still on but NO POWER to pull the car. I reversed the car but it only reversed for few meters and then NO MORE POWER. The recovery guy suggested to keep it in neutral and keep it on and call for a direct recovery. So basically, it did not till Monday at the garage. Our friends stayed till about to get really dark because of the kids. My wife and I alone in the remote area. It was a very traumatic weekend because we end up waiting the recovery but pick us at 00:30 by taxi. I have lost my trust with the car. This should not have happened. I don’t know why Mitsubishi will NOT recall this issue. The garage said there was NO CODES error it was a 12v battery went flat. But the recovery guy has jumpstarts the car and the dashboard was on but it’s NOT PULLING. I press the charge button to charge the battery while it was on but it was NOT CHARGING at all. The garage said all they have to do is charge the 12v overnight. The 12v is healthy they said as and the alternator. My warranty could not cover the battery so it was on me. So this is definitely is an issue. The 12v in my case has been used up by simple leaving the doors and windows open while the car was switch off?
Sounds like the DC-DC inverter is not charging the 12V battery. Get this checked if you haven't got a multimeter yourself. Voltage should go up when the engine runs.
They have tested everything and they found nothing. In fact they said all they to do is chart the battery all night and remove every error codes . The reason the engine did not switch on is because of the error presented by the car it should be clear first they said before it gets to work again. Despite fo the fact they said 12v auxiliary is healthy and alternator is generating good power. I am wondering why the battery has flattened just like that from 10:45 till 14:00hrs. I have opened windows with engine switch off. This is my question that no one knows. But The garage also mentioned that if I am next to the car all day (which they asked me how far I was from the car all day) which in my case I was, the key and the car was in constant communication. They said the car is thinking and always waiting for my action what I’m going to do with it. They said I should try to be outside the bubble of car-key wireless communication if I’m not using the car. Which to me looks make sense but at the same time doesn’t because i felt like there is no freedom of what I want to do. Like if I want to stay in the car all day while the car is at parked/idle. Don’t know if you have anymore idea though so Iv am mention it to the garage guys. Thanks Andy.
I left my 2018 PHEV unplugged overnight.
Pressed Start button without pressing brake pedal to into Acces Mode.
At 12v port I had 12.3vdc.
Started by pressing brake pedal and start button. Charging at 14.5 vdc
That's how it should be! Clearly aux charging works on your car :D
Same thing happened to me this morning and they say it's the aux battery that disables everything. The mechanic says the best thing is to replace it.
Crickey they must have changed the indicator noise on the new one to make it less annoying.
Do you have something plugged into the OBD port? If so, it will draw from the 12v battery. I had a Garmin OBD device that would drain my 12v each night, whereas the Scangauge I now use has only a minor effect.
My Bluetooth adapter is plugged in to the OBD port all the time to connect to the PHEV Watchdog. I've tested as well with nothing plugged in with the same result. The adapter goes to sleep after a few minutes and does not draw any energy until the car is turning on again.
The hood open should have been fine. Sorry to see the car is not starting correctly. If you show Mitsubishi your video, you might not want to mention the forbidden Tesla charger test you did.
I charged from Tesla a few time already. No problem ;)
Just wondering if the rise to 12.9v during parking was simply battery chemistry at work ?
Although mine seems to lose that same amount of Ah when my car charges overnight ans it's not plugged in.
Is it possible the non wi fi cars just pump .6Ah in to the Aux battery after every start , turn off cycle ?
sendtobarry I Concur with your thoughs....as with the drive batteries if you have a cooling battery, i.e. hours after charging. The volts will rise a little.. just millivolts..as was seen...untill he turned the car on again...charged for a few minutes from the drive batteries.but also firing up all the computers /waterpump etc.again probably for 20mins before they went back to sleep..but he only charged for a few mins?? I would certainly expect a drop.keep in mind also when phev is on ac charge the aux 12v gets charged also..lets get back to basics..lead acid cell are flat at 1.75v and full at around 2.2v hence with 6 cells any lower then10.5v is we would call stuffed! ...13.4 v is 100% as you need atleast 13.8v to charge...now if you dont let battery get below say 12v the you life expectancy gets to >5years but 1-2years if you run flat all the time...like you do when starting a conventional ice..however that is not happening here..the ice starts from the generator powered from the drive batteries not the 12v...so unless you like parties in the beach running the 12v down with the lights on and music blasting for hours! This battery should last for 5-7 years with good maintenance. ..but unfortunately they are sealed so we can't top up with distilled water as easy AND as they are charged on driving and charged on 240v...they can acctually boil dry...even SLA types..so if you can.. check the fluids in them but as with any manufacturer these days they want you to buy new!
As always the best test for fully charged battery capacity is to have a known load resistor say 12ohm thus drawing 1amp and count the hours..if it is within 20% of the ah written on the side then should be good...another way is to measure with volt meter under load and if it falls quickly to 10v ie less than an hour then there is a dead cell .....Hope this helps here is a link for bat%..
goo.gl/images/Agb9zm
The aux battery has a certain load for the alarm system, central locking radio receiver and other stuff while the car is parked. Even if this load is only small, it should make the battery voltage go down.
Thank you! Good knowledge about the car and how it charges the two batteries, eh?
I have a feeling my (2014) is doing something similar. Park it with 19kms, come back later it has 11kms left etc.. Need to check the real data...
Oh, that's not good. Yes, please do some testing and report back. If you don't mind, please note all the dates, times and km for a week and let me know... Thanks.
You could get one of these to monitor the aux bat voltage while you go along. Its a cigar socket type digital voltmeter. They are as cheep as chips in the UK eBay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-LCD-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Panel-Meter-Volt-Voltmeter-Monitor-Car/311431469232?epid=1732105173&hash=item4882c318b0:g:msUAAOSw3ydV2yWb It will allow you to monitor/measure the aux battery voltage easily from inside the car.
Yeah, I thought about that. It turns off with the car though. While the car is running the PHEV Watchdog shows the BMU voltage which is the 12V battery voltage. I would need something more......... I don't know yet ;)
BTW the suspense is killing me. (Still at 99.2%)
After 5 days I was down to 98.9% and 37.6Ah. Don't look at the Dog any more :D
Andy I hope Dejanseo is not who you work for. (Note pad)
No, I'm not. Don't know where this note pad is coming from.