Really helpful. I sort of forgot a few steps on how to calibrate the HW ESC, but thanks to your helpful vid it all came back to me. Nice setup on how you do the throttle hold/cut, I’ll see if I can do the same with my 14SG. Regards and happy flying
I actually got it that way. But it's done with decals. I don't know who made them but I could probably find out. I'm sure there are a few places that make or made them.
Hi, I don't recall having seen in my Vcontrol a throttle curve for the hold mode. Does it mean I won't be able to setup a 30% throttle curve for the throttle hold recovery on Vcontrol? Thanks.
Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the Vcontrol. But if it don't show a hold value in your throttle curves. Perhaps there is a %% value in the settings somewhere?
could i ask , how do you find the 130 esc on your gaui , does it ever struggle or is fine . id want to use the bec if i went with this esc .thanks karl
In my T-REX 760 I use the Hobbywing Platinum HV-160A ESC. During acceleration, the acceleration is interrupted for a few seconds (the motor no longer accelerates and the speed remains constant) and then he accelerates smoothly further to the set constant throttle value (60% in idle 1). When restarting within the set time window, after activating the auto-rotate switch, the motor accelerates in the same way as described above and does not accelerate again in the set 2 seconds restart acceleration time. The trottle value in my autorotation mode = 30% Hold, idle1 en idle 2 are set one one three-position switch. Autoration is set on another two position switch. Whether I switch from hold mode or from autorotation mode to idle 1, my controller responds identically in both cases. Slow start-up with acceleration interruption. How do I tell the controller to restart restarted from autorotation mode, preferably without acceleration interruption. My transmitter is a Jeti DC-24. I see in the video that it works for you. Please do you know the cause of these problems and how to fix them. What am I doing wrong? Many thanks in advance for your reply,
Hi. I don't know if you figured this out yet. I don't know much about Jeti setups. But with Spektrum I typically have a separate switch for throttle hold, throttle cut, and flight mode. So my flight mode basically changes between 3 RPM settings. My throttle hold is typically the auto rotation bailout switch for full speed spool ups. My throttle cut is usually for slow spooling to take off. Perhaps your TX setup and having the hold on the flight mode switch are causing some issue. Like I said, I don't know Jeti enough to really say. Also, just a thought. But you might try adjusting lower than 30% to enter the auto rotation bailout "window". Since your using a Jeti and I'm using a Spektrum. The ranges might be different and you might have gone past the "window" where the heli should spool back up quickly once throttle is restarted. Hopefully this will help if you didn't get it working already. Let me know if you figure it out. Good luck.
@@IntegrityRC Thank you for your response and your explanation. Without going into detail, I've tested and tried just about everything. The controller does not understand that if there is a start-up signal with a throttle value between 25 and 40% it must start up faster until the throttle value of 60% (set in idle1) is reached. The controller controls the motor always to wind up slowly. I'm going to throw out the Hobbywing ESC and try again with a Kontronic Jive 120HV. If this works I am sure it is the controller that is not compatible with the Jeti DC-24 transmitter. Thanks again and when it will or will not work with the Kontronik I post it here.
That looks like a pain. I like Castle because I can just type in exactly what rpm I want and click save. I'm looking at a a Hobbywing ESC for my new heli but this governor setup is a turnoff
Yeah, I hear you. It is a bit of a learning curve. But thankfully you only have to set it once, usually. I like that about Castle's programming also. However, on a personal level. I went through 3 160HVFs in just a couple years due to them bursting into flames. Usually at some random point in its life when turning off throttle cut to spool up for a flight. So thankfully it didn't usually damage anything else (i did catch this on video at least once ruclips.net/video/UfyB9FQlpxQ/видео.html). This is not an issue I've had with smaller models. I have 450s, 550s, and other kinds of models running Castle with no issue for hundreds of runs. So I gave this a shot instead for my 700. There is just this thing about doing something over and over and expecting a different result, ya know? So for me the Hobbywing has worked out well so far and definitely this 130HV runs much cooler than my Castle 160HVF does during the summer when it's like 100°F outside. I don't think I've ever seen it go over 130°F. While the Castle 160HVF in my other X7 can hit 160° pretty quickly and without the fan running it will go a lot hotter. So I'm happy with that result since I live in Florida. Though the other X7 with the Castle has been holding up okay also, I suppose. Probably because I installed a capacitor pack this time. But admittedly I haven't been flying my helis as much lately. So it's hard to say. At the end of the day every pilot's situation will be different. So you have to do what works for you. If you don't smack it around hard. I doubt these would be issues most people have.
@@IntegrityRC Came back to this video yet again because I am setting up my 12s Kraken 580 with a Platinum Pro 130a. It appears my original comment didn't age well as all my helis have Hobbywing ESCs lol
I'm not 100% sure. But I believe it should work for all of the newer Hobbywing ESCs. For air models anyway. There is a windows program you can download and use with the control box via USB, instead of using the LCD screen on the box. But the software and programming method isn't like a Castle Creations or anything like that. Though it has uses still.
in this case, after the setup is complete. You would set them all to 50% or 50% to 85% (depending on what head speed you want) for flying. That would create a flat line "throttle curve" that is 50% throttle output no matter where the stick is positioned. But for doing the setup, it depends on which part of the setup your doing. For throttle calibration you would do 0 to 100 like I explain in the video. This is so you have 0% throttle at the bottom and 100% throttle at the top. Once you let the ESC know where 0 and 100 is on your transmitter. Then you need go back to a 50% for all of them, flat line throttle at 50% to do the RPM calibration part.
@@IntegrityRC Castle creations esc's have a adjustment for the pulse width modulation (aka) pwm. I noticed that my Hobbywing has no such adjustment? Maybe the processing chip in these Hobbywing esc's does it automatically?
@@olinsrc3841 Oh, sorry. I've had jets on the mind lately so I was thinking of the wrong thing thing when you said PWM. You meant PWM for the motor. For some reason I thought you meant PWM control through the aux channel for some other function or adjusting the throttle PWM input. Anyway, I don't know why they don't have a PWM adjustment for the motor. Their website says its set to 18kHz. I know Scorpion motors like to run at like 8. But many manufacturers don't ever list what PWM to run their motors. All I know is that my HW130 V4 runs much cooler during the summer months, without a fan on it, than my Castle 160 HVF (with fan) does. After 3 minutes of whomping on it. The HW130 is almost never hotter than 120°F. But my Castle 160HVF sets off my telemetry warming over 160°F after just 1 minute of flight. Plus I had about 3 Castle 160s in about 4 years that burst into flames while spooling up. So I haven't regretted it. But to be fair, it's also using a Savox motor. Not a Scorpion. But the wattage ratings are the same, and I do still have a Castle powered X7. I just rarely fly it.
If i want a lower headspeed than the one at 50% throttle, do i just lower the throttle curve down as far as i need to go? I am looking for around 1250rpm. I was not sure what the rpm was in your video at 50%, 122*1000, ??
The ESC does not tell you the RPM of the rotor, it goes by the RPM of the motor. But, in-fact, as far as I know. Either the display of the RPM (122*1000) is bugged or Hobbywing just hasn't provided a method to interpret it. As stated in this HF thread: www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=763105 So to know your actual head speed. I would recommend using another method. Optical tachometers are not very expensive. You can also get a rough idea with audio analyzing phone apps or other methods to determine head speed. Either way, I believe the ESC only spools up after detecting 40% or higher throttle signal. So, if the RPM is to high for you at 50% throttle after the standardization is completed. Then I would recommend changing out your motor or pinion to get as close to the RPM you want. My RPM and settings could be very different from what you end up with due to different motor and pinion setup. You can also try using the RPM calculator mentioned in the video to try to determine what RPM you'll end up with based on your motor and pinion, etc. But a optical tachometer is going to be more accurate.
Just to clarify, does the initial rpm setup at 50% throttle train the governor what is full speed or 50% speed.? Logically it should be 50% of full motor speed but i have read it actually runs the motor at full speed to set the rpm.
The initial RPM standardization is so the ESC knows what kind of motor and what kind of RPM range it can produce using that motor. It is certainly not going to full speed at 50% throttle during the standardization. Because then there wouldn't be any way to raise to RPM to what most people consider viable RPM ranges. Typically, after RPM standardization. A 50% throttle is very slow for most people.
IntegrityRC Yes agreed that is what i thought too, my confusion was caused by a forum post i read about the subject. Step #7 on this link www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=620816#/topics/620816
Yes, at 7:36 or so you'll see mine says 122*1000RPM. Your gearing or motor or something may be different than mine so you got a different value. But that should be okay.
Thanks for the vid! I did this with my new Goblin 420. Throttle cal worked (with beeps). Spooled up to 50% per your vid for like 30 sec at least. When I checked the RPM using the HW readout and pressing R/P button twice, but got no RPM. It just said, Profile0_esc0. Any ideas? Thanks again.
Yep. This is my first build, so I'm a green horn. Looks like you have another input to the program box at around 7:35. Is this need for speed? I do think my RPM std worked b/c I set FM1 at 70% throttle with pitch at 48% to keep her on the ground and switched from normal mode to this. RPM did increase, just don't know what speed it was running. She hovers like a dream though...can't wait to put her thru the paces.
The other input to the program box is my 2S lipo for power. Big helis like the one I am setting up in this video don't always have a built in BEC. So power has to be supplied to the RX, servos, and in this case the programmer, in another way. I don't remember completely, but I'm pretty sure you don't have to do this for the smaller controllers or ones with BECs built in. Just the OPTO ones(without BEC), because I think otherwise the built in BEC powers the program box for you. It sounds like you might have it working. Though it may or may not be calibrated properly. But as long as your getting a consistent RPM out of it. It should be fine, especially if your still just learning and your not going to be constantly loading the motor down with 3D and stuff. Just adjust the flat line throttle to get a RPM your comfortable with and you should be fine for now. But you can always plug your programmer in and check what it says for Max RPM. If you still have nothing listed there, you can go back to the Flight mode menu and check that its on StoGov mode. If not, select StoGov, save it and go about doing the spool up calibration right away. If it is in StoGov mode. Change it to something else, save, reset the power, change it back to StoGov mode, save, and then go about doing the spool up calibration right away. Afterwards you should be able to see a MAX RPM value listed.
Thanks for the detailed response...much appreciated. I have it set to StoGov mode. I posted something on HeliFreak and the response was b/c I had "V3", not V4...what do you think? Anyway, I borrowed a hand tach from work and I'm within about 5% on headspeed at 50%. I think I'm good then (I did have some negative pitch when checking to hold her down due to wind, so could account for the 5%). Did maiden hover in the yard and looks like she sitting on a shelf. Good feeling to have things come together for your first build. Hopefully can actually fly her soon...too windy. Cheers!
It is certainly possible that things are a bit different with the V3. Especially the menus in the programmer and how it displays the info. But like i said, if you get stable head speeds when flying you should be okay. So congrats on your first build and good luck on your actual maiden flight.
Sorry man. But I'm confused? Do you mean FBL governor or something else? Anyway, someone else told me they were having problems following my instruction here and it turned out that they had a V3 instead of a V4 ESC. Not sure if that might be part of your trouble here? Anyway, if you did mean FBL governor. It seems a lot of people tend to prefer those kind over ESC governors. But I've never used the FBL type so I can't say. Though either should be fine unless your doing super smack 3D or some kind of hard flying.
god I just am 2 stupid to do this I can't take it anymore can I please just pay you 2 set up my heli i have owned helis for 4 years and I've never flew once because I'm just 2 stupid to figure it out
Where do you live? Do you have a RC club nearby? There might be someone there that can help you? Otherwise, yes I have done builds and electronic setups for people in the past. But shipping might be more than you'd like. However, yes, I am willing to look at your heli, if that is what you want to do. Do you have a RCgroups.com account? If you contact me over there it would be easier to share private information in a private message.
Looks complicated all I want to do is reset my max and min throttle to work, pity your camera wasn't mostly showing what you were doing. Too complicated for me as a beginner.
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Really helpful. I sort of forgot a few steps on how to calibrate the HW ESC, but thanks to your helpful vid it all came back to me. Nice setup on how you do the throttle hold/cut, I’ll see if I can do the same with my 14SG. Regards and happy flying
Great video, have now set up my Align RCE BL130A ESC on my Trex 700 for Autos. Thank you.
thnx !! great video ,working on my oxy3 with 50a hw esc /dx8 gen2
122000 RPM. Great headspeed!
great video thank you
Very impressive video. Please tell me how you did the color on the DX9 remote
I actually got it that way. But it's done with decals. I don't know who made them but I could probably find out. I'm sure there are a few places that make or made them.
@@IntegrityRC thanks
Hello I set my AR Time to 90 seconds but my spool up is still slow after hitting throttle hold. How can I over come this?
What esc plugs you running?
Hey, nice video! help me a lot!
Hi, I don't recall having seen in my Vcontrol a throttle curve for the hold mode. Does it mean I won't be able to setup a 30% throttle curve for the throttle hold recovery on Vcontrol? Thanks.
Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the Vcontrol.
But if it don't show a hold value in your throttle curves. Perhaps there is a %% value in the settings somewhere?
could i ask , how do you find the 130 esc on your gaui , does it ever struggle or is fine . id want to use the bec if i went with this esc .thanks karl
In my T-REX 760 I use the Hobbywing Platinum HV-160A ESC.
During acceleration, the acceleration is interrupted for a few seconds (the motor no longer accelerates and the speed remains constant) and then he accelerates smoothly further to the set constant throttle value (60% in idle 1).
When restarting within the set time window, after activating the auto-rotate switch, the motor accelerates in the same way as described above and does not accelerate again in the set 2 seconds restart acceleration time.
The trottle value in my autorotation mode = 30%
Hold, idle1 en idle 2 are set one one three-position switch.
Autoration is set on another two position switch.
Whether I switch from hold mode or from autorotation mode to idle 1, my controller responds identically in both cases. Slow start-up with acceleration interruption.
How do I tell the controller to restart restarted from autorotation mode, preferably without acceleration interruption.
My transmitter is a Jeti DC-24.
I see in the video that it works for you.
Please do you know the cause of these problems and how to fix them. What am I doing wrong?
Many thanks in advance for your reply,
Hi. I don't know if you figured this out yet. I don't know much about Jeti setups. But with Spektrum I typically have a separate switch for throttle hold, throttle cut, and flight mode. So my flight mode basically changes between 3 RPM settings. My throttle hold is typically the auto rotation bailout switch for full speed spool ups. My throttle cut is usually for slow spooling to take off. Perhaps your TX setup and having the hold on the flight mode switch are causing some issue. Like I said, I don't know Jeti enough to really say. Also, just a thought. But you might try adjusting lower than 30% to enter the auto rotation bailout "window". Since your using a Jeti and I'm using a Spektrum. The ranges might be different and you might have gone past the "window" where the heli should spool back up quickly once throttle is restarted. Hopefully this will help if you didn't get it working already. Let me know if you figure it out. Good luck.
@@IntegrityRC Thank you for your response and your explanation.
Without going into detail, I've tested and tried just about everything.
The controller does not understand that if there is a start-up signal with a throttle value between 25 and 40% it must start up faster until the throttle value of 60% (set in idle1) is reached. The controller controls the motor always to wind up slowly.
I'm going to throw out the Hobbywing ESC and try again with a Kontronic Jive 120HV. If this works I am sure it is the controller that is not compatible with the Jeti DC-24 transmitter.
Thanks again and when it will or will not work with the Kontronik I post it here.
That looks like a pain. I like Castle because I can just type in exactly what rpm I want and click save. I'm looking at a a Hobbywing ESC for my new heli but this governor setup is a turnoff
Yeah, I hear you. It is a bit of a learning curve. But thankfully you only have to set it once, usually. I like that about Castle's programming also. However, on a personal level. I went through 3 160HVFs in just a couple years due to them bursting into flames. Usually at some random point in its life when turning off throttle cut to spool up for a flight. So thankfully it didn't usually damage anything else (i did catch this on video at least once ruclips.net/video/UfyB9FQlpxQ/видео.html). This is not an issue I've had with smaller models. I have 450s, 550s, and other kinds of models running Castle with no issue for hundreds of runs. So I gave this a shot instead for my 700. There is just this thing about doing something over and over and expecting a different result, ya know? So for me the Hobbywing has worked out well so far and definitely this 130HV runs much cooler than my Castle 160HVF does during the summer when it's like 100°F outside. I don't think I've ever seen it go over 130°F. While the Castle 160HVF in my other X7 can hit 160° pretty quickly and without the fan running it will go a lot hotter. So I'm happy with that result since I live in Florida. Though the other X7 with the Castle has been holding up okay also, I suppose. Probably because I installed a capacitor pack this time. But admittedly I haven't been flying my helis as much lately. So it's hard to say. At the end of the day every pilot's situation will be different. So you have to do what works for you. If you don't smack it around hard. I doubt these would be issues most people have.
@@IntegrityRC I decided I am still going with hobbywing as I forgot I can always just use the governor on the Ikon 2 and the HW has a rpm signal wire.
@@RemedyTalon This is true. Some say the gyro based governors work better. But I don't know if that is true or not.
@@IntegrityRC Came back to this video yet again because I am setting up my 12s Kraken 580 with a Platinum Pro 130a. It appears my original comment didn't age well as all my helis have Hobbywing ESCs lol
is it the same setyup for the HW 100 v3?
thanks
How many mah are your batteries
I think the ones in the video are 5500mah. But I've ran everything from 5000mah to 6250mah.
does that program box work for all hobbywing like xrotor hv pro esc?
is it only way to setup esc? or can do usb
I'm not 100% sure. But I believe it should work for all of the newer Hobbywing ESCs. For air models anyway. There is a windows program you can download and use with the control box via USB, instead of using the LCD screen on the box. But the software and programming method isn't like a Castle Creations or anything like that. Though it has uses still.
can you please explain the throttle curve I don't understand I set them all to 50 percent or do I change 100 to 50 percent
in this case, after the setup is complete. You would set them all to 50% or 50% to 85% (depending on what head speed you want) for flying. That would create a flat line "throttle curve" that is 50% throttle output no matter where the stick is positioned. But for doing the setup, it depends on which part of the setup your doing. For throttle calibration you would do 0 to 100 like I explain in the video. This is so you have 0% throttle at the bottom and 100% throttle at the top. Once you let the ESC know where 0 and 100 is on your transmitter. Then you need go back to a 50% for all of them, flat line throttle at 50% to do the RPM calibration part.
IntegrityRC ok I get it now thank you
Why is there no pwm adjustment? Thanks
PWM adjustment for what?
@@IntegrityRC Castle creations esc's have a adjustment for the pulse width modulation (aka) pwm. I noticed that my Hobbywing has no such adjustment? Maybe the processing chip in these Hobbywing esc's does it automatically?
@@olinsrc3841 Oh, sorry. I've had jets on the mind lately so I was thinking of the wrong thing thing when you said PWM. You meant PWM for the motor. For some reason I thought you meant PWM control through the aux channel for some other function or adjusting the throttle PWM input. Anyway, I don't know why they don't have a PWM adjustment for the motor. Their website says its set to 18kHz. I know Scorpion motors like to run at like 8. But many manufacturers don't ever list what PWM to run their motors. All I know is that my HW130 V4 runs much cooler during the summer months, without a fan on it, than my Castle 160 HVF (with fan) does. After 3 minutes of whomping on it. The HW130 is almost never hotter than 120°F. But my Castle 160HVF sets off my telemetry warming over 160°F after just 1 minute of flight. Plus I had about 3 Castle 160s in about 4 years that burst into flames while spooling up. So I haven't regretted it. But to be fair, it's also using a Savox motor. Not a Scorpion. But the wattage ratings are the same, and I do still have a Castle powered X7. I just rarely fly it.
If i want a lower headspeed than the one at 50% throttle, do i just lower the throttle curve down as far as i need to go? I am looking for around 1250rpm. I was not sure what the rpm was in your video at 50%, 122*1000, ??
The ESC does not tell you the RPM of the rotor, it goes by the RPM of the motor. But, in-fact, as far as I know. Either the display of the RPM (122*1000) is bugged or Hobbywing just hasn't provided a method to interpret it. As stated in this HF thread: www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=763105
So to know your actual head speed. I would recommend using another method. Optical tachometers are not very expensive. You can also get a rough idea with audio analyzing phone apps or other methods to determine head speed. Either way, I believe the ESC only spools up after detecting 40% or higher throttle signal. So, if the RPM is to high for you at 50% throttle after the standardization is completed. Then I would recommend changing out your motor or pinion to get as close to the RPM you want. My RPM and settings could be very different from what you end up with due to different motor and pinion setup. You can also try using the RPM calculator mentioned in the video to try to determine what RPM you'll end up with based on your motor and pinion, etc. But a optical tachometer is going to be more accurate.
IntegrityRC thanks for your reply. 😀
Just to clarify, does the initial rpm setup at 50% throttle train the governor what is full speed or 50% speed.? Logically it should be 50% of full motor speed but i have read it actually runs the motor at full speed to set the rpm.
The initial RPM standardization is so the ESC knows what kind of motor and what kind of RPM range it can produce using that motor. It is certainly not going to full speed at 50% throttle during the standardization. Because then there wouldn't be any way to raise to RPM to what most people consider viable RPM ranges. Typically, after RPM standardization. A 50% throttle is very slow for most people.
IntegrityRC Yes agreed that is what i thought too, my confusion was caused by a forum post i read about the subject. Step #7 on this link www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=620816#/topics/620816
I did this i can get it to work
My program box says 129*1000RPM after calibration. OK?
I have a Trex700e V2
Yes, at 7:36 or so you'll see mine says 122*1000RPM. Your gearing or motor or something may be different than mine so you got a different value. But that should be okay.
do I turn gov off if I'm using fbl gove
Yes, I think so. You don't want the ESC governor working if your using a FBL governor.
Thanks for the vid! I did this with my new Goblin 420. Throttle cal worked (with beeps). Spooled up to 50% per your vid for like 30 sec at least. When I checked the RPM using the HW readout and pressing R/P button twice, but got no RPM. It just said, Profile0_esc0. Any ideas? Thanks again.
Humm, did you change the flight mode to Heli StoGov before trying to spool up?
Yep. This is my first build, so I'm a green horn. Looks like you have another input to the program box at around 7:35. Is this need for speed?
I do think my RPM std worked b/c I set FM1 at 70% throttle with pitch at 48% to keep her on the ground and switched from normal mode to this. RPM did increase, just don't know what speed it was running. She hovers like a dream though...can't wait to put her thru the paces.
The other input to the program box is my 2S lipo for power. Big helis like the one I am setting up in this video don't always have a built in BEC. So power has to be supplied to the RX, servos, and in this case the programmer, in another way. I don't remember completely, but I'm pretty sure you don't have to do this for the smaller controllers or ones with BECs built in. Just the OPTO ones(without BEC), because I think otherwise the built in BEC powers the program box for you. It sounds like you might have it working. Though it may or may not be calibrated properly. But as long as your getting a consistent RPM out of it. It should be fine, especially if your still just learning and your not going to be constantly loading the motor down with 3D and stuff. Just adjust the flat line throttle to get a RPM your comfortable with and you should be fine for now. But you can always plug your programmer in and check what it says for Max RPM. If you still have nothing listed there, you can go back to the Flight mode menu and check that its on StoGov mode. If not, select StoGov, save it and go about doing the spool up calibration right away. If it is in StoGov mode. Change it to something else, save, reset the power, change it back to StoGov mode, save, and then go about doing the spool up calibration right away. Afterwards you should be able to see a MAX RPM value listed.
Thanks for the detailed response...much appreciated. I have it set to StoGov mode. I posted something on HeliFreak and the response was b/c I had "V3", not V4...what do you think? Anyway, I borrowed a hand tach from work and I'm within about 5% on headspeed at 50%. I think I'm good then (I did have some negative pitch when checking to hold her down due to wind, so could account for the 5%). Did maiden hover in the yard and looks like she sitting on a shelf. Good feeling to have things come together for your first build. Hopefully can actually fly her soon...too windy. Cheers!
It is certainly possible that things are a bit different with the V3. Especially the menus in the programmer and how it displays the info. But like i said, if you get stable head speeds when flying you should be okay. So congrats on your first build and good luck on your actual maiden flight.
Watching over and over again, but not clue at all how to get it right with my HW ESC. Just give up and back to fbl settings...
Sorry man. But I'm confused? Do you mean FBL governor or something else? Anyway, someone else told me they were having problems following my instruction here and it turned out that they had a V3 instead of a V4 ESC. Not sure if that might be part of your trouble here? Anyway, if you did mean FBL governor. It seems a lot of people tend to prefer those kind over ESC governors. But I've never used the FBL type so I can't say. Though either should be fine unless your doing super smack 3D or some kind of hard flying.
god I just am 2 stupid to do this I can't take it anymore can I please just pay you 2 set up my heli i have owned helis for 4 years and I've never flew once because I'm just 2 stupid to figure it out
Where do you live? Do you have a RC club nearby? There might be someone there that can help you? Otherwise, yes I have done builds and electronic setups for people in the past. But shipping might be more than you'd like. However, yes, I am willing to look at your heli, if that is what you want to do. Do you have a RCgroups.com account? If you contact me over there it would be easier to share private information in a private message.
IntegrityRC thank you I live in ky and I have a helifreak account
Looks complicated all I want to do is reset my max and min throttle to work, pity your camera wasn't mostly showing what you were doing.
Too complicated for me as a beginner.