Always clean the flux off the soldered joints afterwards. The flux eventually eats through the copper as it's normally acid based. Plumbers often leave it on so in the future they can charge you for the repair of a leak.
That is really impressive! I've played with the idea of having a solenoid-controlled pin inside the extrusion nozzle to stop flow, instead of retraction. Maybe having a long pin-end on the auger could work like that in this design?
Thanks! I had mentioned having a steel tip on the screw that dives into the nozzle and so shots it down in one of the previous videos, but haven't implemented, something like that yet. One step after the other, constant extrusion first. Stay tuned!
@@HomoFaciensConventional extruders want to have a larger hot area to let the plastic melt more completely. This is done to increase flow rate and have stronger parts. Usually done either of two ways: Volcano style with the longer nozzles or CHT style with the split paths or a combination of both.
Yes, but in principle it is the larger volume of plastic that is wanted for high flow rates. The granule extruder has a rather large diameter of 6mm compared to 1.75mm filament. With that you get a high volume of molten plastic even in a short tube. More on that when I start experimenting with flow rates. Stay tuned!
@@HomoFaciens it will be interesting to have a look at the cross section of the extruded filament out of the nozzle. It should be homogenous if all the granules are completely melted instead of just squished together in a semi molten state.
That's a good idea. I will have a look at the extruded plastics under the microscope when talking about throughput in one of the coming videos. To keep things methodical, I'll continue to investigate one parameter at a time. Be patient, stay tuned!
Great work! Love following your progress! If you do a modern conversion can you use an Ender 3 as a base? These are the most widespread printers around and are very mod friendly!
Thanks! The more open source Hard- and Software, the more mod friendly. And in those terms the Prusa MK4 I have ordered is a way better choice. More on this in the next but coming video. Stay tuned!
I would say this is quite good result but imo you need little less extrusion. And you neeeeeeeeeed a fan. Or is it a project for the future? :) I was wondering if a silicone sock would help you? may be a good idea to make one
Eagle eye ;-) Yes, the extrusion width is set to a ridiculous value in terms of getting a perfect print (0.7mm for the perimeters). The current videos are all to optimize the extrusion process, not to get the best overall prints. Same is for the part cooling or a silicone sock: both will be implemented in the near future when I convert a modern printer to granule printing. A Prusa MK4 is already ordered. Stay tuned!
Put this on a quantum delta not an i3. No impact on kinematic speeds, you can print as fast as you can get it to flow (and make it as big as you need it to achieve that flow).
Well, moving the print bed means moving more mass around than moving the extruder. All printers have their pros and cons. The i3 mechanics is the best you can have to record the printing process on video. The print head only moves in the focus plane. Watching the extrusion process is important for the further development of the extruder.
@@HomoFaciens The modern quantum deltas I've seen have lower total bed mass than even a typical bowden effector. Some sub-100g. Of course you have to add print mass, but even if you printed like half a spool, it's still less than a lot of printers move.
These deltas are definitely an interesting type of mechanics. I'll keep that in mind for eventually a future project.. For a first conversion of a modern printer I have ordered a Prusa MK4
much ado for nothing... May I suggest a way better pellets 3D printer, from a young German www.youtube.com/@greenboy3d ? Efficiency and... youth actually make the difference.
your results are very impressive! congratulations
Always clean the flux off the soldered joints afterwards. The flux eventually eats through the copper as it's normally acid based. Plumbers often leave it on so in the future they can charge you for the repair of a leak.
...it will eat through only days after warranty has expired ;-)
You are right, I was too lazy.
Superb! Well done on the great progress.
That is really impressive!
I've played with the idea of having a solenoid-controlled pin inside the extrusion nozzle to stop flow, instead of retraction. Maybe having a long pin-end on the auger could work like that in this design?
Thanks!
I had mentioned having a steel tip on the screw that dives into the nozzle and so shots it down in one of the previous videos, but haven't implemented, something like that yet. One step after the other, constant extrusion first. Stay tuned!
It's working very well. It seems like your primary concern is to keep the melt zone very short? That is surprising
Yes, but why does that surprise you?
@@HomoFaciensConventional extruders want to have a larger hot area to let the plastic melt more completely. This is done to increase flow rate and have stronger parts. Usually done either of two ways: Volcano style with the longer nozzles or CHT style with the split paths or a combination of both.
Yes, but in principle it is the larger volume of plastic that is wanted for high flow rates. The granule extruder has a rather large diameter of 6mm compared to 1.75mm filament. With that you get a high volume of molten plastic even in a short tube. More on that when I start experimenting with flow rates. Stay tuned!
@@HomoFaciens it will be interesting to have a look at the cross section of the extruded filament out of the nozzle. It should be homogenous if all the granules are completely melted instead of just squished together in a semi molten state.
That's a good idea. I will have a look at the extruded plastics under the microscope when talking about throughput in one of the coming videos. To keep things methodical, I'll continue to investigate one parameter at a time. Be patient, stay tuned!
maybe a ender 3 conversion would be good as it's widely adpoted by the community - you can get one second hand for 50$
I have ordered a Prusa MK4 instead. More about my choice in a coming video. Stay tuned!
Great work! Love following your progress! If you do a modern conversion can you use an Ender 3 as a base? These are the most widespread printers around and are very mod friendly!
Thanks! The more open source Hard- and Software, the more mod friendly. And in those terms the Prusa MK4 I have ordered is a way better choice. More on this in the next but coming video. Stay tuned!
Nice, using the mk4 is basically insuring any issue comes from the print head and extruder alone.
Yes, no more excuses, I have to deliver best print quality ;-)
I would say this is quite good result but imo you need little less extrusion.
And you neeeeeeeeeed a fan. Or is it a project for the future? :)
I was wondering if a silicone sock would help you? may be a good idea to make one
Eagle eye ;-) Yes, the extrusion width is set to a ridiculous value in terms of getting a perfect print (0.7mm for the perimeters).
The current videos are all to optimize the extrusion process, not to get the best overall prints.
Same is for the part cooling or a silicone sock: both will be implemented in the near future when I convert a modern printer to granule printing. A Prusa MK4 is already ordered. Stay tuned!
👏👏👏👏👏👏
Put this on a quantum delta not an i3. No impact on kinematic speeds, you can print as fast as you can get it to flow (and make it as big as you need it to achieve that flow).
Well, moving the print bed means moving more mass around than moving the extruder. All printers have their pros and cons.
The i3 mechanics is the best you can have to record the printing process on video. The print head only moves in the focus plane. Watching the extrusion process is important for the further development of the extruder.
@@HomoFaciens The modern quantum deltas I've seen have lower total bed mass than even a typical bowden effector. Some sub-100g. Of course you have to add print mass, but even if you printed like half a spool, it's still less than a lot of printers move.
These deltas are definitely an interesting type of mechanics. I'll keep that in mind for eventually a future project.. For a first conversion of a modern printer I have ordered a Prusa MK4
@@HomoFaciens Sounds good. I know the folks building these things are excited about possibility of putting pellet extruders on them.
much ado for nothing... May I suggest a way better pellets 3D printer, from a young German www.youtube.com/@greenboy3d ? Efficiency and... youth actually make the difference.
In what way do you call the greenboy extruder better? The print quality is horrible compared to my demo prints..