If you do not have a transmission jack, the other option is to use a horizontal engine support bar (over the entire engine). This can hold up the engine. But you can also use straps or chains to support the transmission (that also go over the engine bar..and can slide left or right). Using straps with an engine bar is harder than a transmission jack, but doable. Also, the trickiest part of a transmission job is getting the transmission lined up. One trick is to go to hardware/autopartstore and get the same diameter/thread bolts that are twice or three times as long as the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. 3 will usually do, but match the top most ones first (sometimes the top bolts of the transmission to engine bolts are bigger than the bottom and side bolts, I don't know specifically on this car). CUT THE HEADS OFF. Insert then on the transmission side (into the engine) and use them a guide bolts. This poor-man's "install kit" has helped me (at home shade tree mechanic) several times. Then use (some of) the original bolts to slowly draw the transmission to the engine. Keep an eye on the "open space" between the engine and trans. It has to remain the same, or you will bind. Usually after I get 2-3 of the originals bolts installed and the transmission is fully next to the engine, the temporary homemade guide bolts will unscrew by hand.
NEWBIE Advice. When you remove any bolts/nuts, try to put them back in their homes immediately. Kinda like he did with the slave cylinder bolts. Good candidate here would be the 3 bolts that hold the "top" transmission mount to the trans (under the battery box area). Sometimes these bolts are different lengths. Try to avoid "I'll just remember" syndrome. Elin is not a newbie. But newbies, you'll be thankful the bolts are in their homes with reassembly.
Thanks for the great video, doing the same for my 2006. Have to change some bushings and wheel bearing too, so a little more disassembly and swearing... :)
Great video. I just bought Mazda 5, 2.0 Diesel, 105kw. The clutch goes very hard, and at some point in the middle it breaks though more easy. Should I change clutch set + flywheel or just clutch set. How do I know if flywheel is up for a change too? When I go low RPM in 2nd gear, the car gets a bit soft stuttering. It's not shaking too hard but I can feel it back and forth a bit.
Agreed. Future readers, at the 21:23 time mark, the quarter ($.25) diameter bearing (or maybe tad bigger) right in the middle of the flywheel should also be replaced. It will usually be in the "clutch kit" you purchase.
Hi I have a Mazda 5 sport diesel, loved your video, big help thanks, I am having a issue , my car will tick over lovely , but will not rev over 1000 rpm , could it be a transmission problem, thanks if you can help..
The reason the control arm did not "drop" aka "go down" enough (earlier than later) to separate from the hub ... is because the strut is fully extended. Some people (more dangerous, you've been warned) compress the strut with a jack pushing up on the hub (round part that holds the 5 studs for the lug nuts). This is more dangerous.
Most likely the synchro ring inside the gear box. If it was the clutch it would be on all gears. Also when the clutch gets worn it does not engage anymore. Not the opposite
My question is how in the fuck in the a and w ad do they have the burger already befire they get into the drive thru like wtf wheres the common sense in that
If you do not have a transmission jack, the other option is to use a horizontal engine support bar (over the entire engine). This can hold up the engine. But you can also use straps or chains to support the transmission (that also go over the engine bar..and can slide left or right). Using straps with an engine bar is harder than a transmission jack, but doable. Also, the trickiest part of a transmission job is getting the transmission lined up. One trick is to go to hardware/autopartstore and get the same diameter/thread bolts that are twice or three times as long as the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. 3 will usually do, but match the top most ones first (sometimes the top bolts of the transmission to engine bolts are bigger than the bottom and side bolts, I don't know specifically on this car). CUT THE HEADS OFF. Insert then on the transmission side (into the engine) and use them a guide bolts. This poor-man's "install kit" has helped me (at home shade tree mechanic) several times. Then use (some of) the original bolts to slowly draw the transmission to the engine. Keep an eye on the "open space" between the engine and trans. It has to remain the same, or you will bind. Usually after I get 2-3 of the originals bolts installed and the transmission is fully next to the engine, the temporary homemade guide bolts will unscrew by hand.
NEWBIE Advice. When you remove any bolts/nuts, try to put them back in their homes immediately. Kinda like he did with the slave cylinder bolts. Good candidate here would be the 3 bolts that hold the "top" transmission mount to the trans (under the battery box area). Sometimes these bolts are different lengths. Try to avoid "I'll just remember" syndrome. Elin is not a newbie. But newbies, you'll be thankful the bolts are in their homes with reassembly.
This lies ahead for me as well. Great heads up for what is needed!!
Thanks for good video!
Welcome back Elin. You have been missed.
Thank you Elin! Good video. Hearing you talk through things helps out.
Nice job. What a lot of work that was. I hope she appreciates you. Thanks for the video.
They've since split up, but during the time course of the video, he managed to clap her cheeks several times.
It is what it is! 🤷♂️
Are you 13 year old?
Now you can pick up the kids from soccer practice again 😎
Thanks for the great video, doing the same for my 2006. Have to change some bushings and wheel bearing too, so a little more disassembly and swearing... :)
Another neat video! Looking forward to watching
Great video.
I just bought Mazda 5, 2.0 Diesel, 105kw.
The clutch goes very hard, and at some point in the middle it breaks though more easy.
Should I change clutch set + flywheel or just clutch set.
How do I know if flywheel is up for a change too? When I go low RPM in 2nd gear, the car gets a bit soft stuttering. It's not shaking too hard but I can feel it back and forth a bit.
I hope the transmission has oil again inside?
You really should have changed the small spigot bearing in the flywheel for the gearbox shaft, while it was apart.
Agreed. Future readers, at the 21:23 time mark, the quarter ($.25) diameter bearing (or maybe tad bigger) right in the middle of the flywheel should also be replaced. It will usually be in the "clutch kit" you purchase.
Hi I have a Mazda 5 sport diesel, loved your video, big help thanks, I am having a issue , my car will tick over lovely , but will not rev over 1000 rpm , could it be a transmission problem, thanks if you can help..
Don't think so the transmission just transfers the power to the wheel. It sounds more like a sensor acting up.
Question: taking out the lower ctrl arms will require a wheel alignment, correct?
No, I don't think so.
Thank you, thank you! Just what I needed!
Is this the G5m transmission?
What happened to the final part of the Ford truck transmission rebuild ?
The reason the control arm did not "drop" aka "go down" enough (earlier than later) to separate from the hub ... is because the strut is fully extended. Some people (more dangerous, you've been warned) compress the strut with a jack pushing up on the hub (round part that holds the 5 studs for the lug nuts). This is more dangerous.
HOW DID YOU REMOVE THE ECU from battery cover ???
how long to finish the job?
i have a 2007 Mazda 5 with 191,000 miles on it and has started to grind when I shift from 1st to 2nd gear... Do you think the clutch is going bad?
Most likely the synchro ring inside the gear box. If it was the clutch it would be on all gears. Also when the clutch gets worn it does not engage anymore. Not the opposite
@@RustyBeauties Do you have any idea what it would cost to have the 2nd gear synchro ring replaced?
A (1 1/4 inch) socket (one inch and one quarter inch socket) will work in a pinch.
Ontario stand up
Excellent job.
Would like to see you work on your clutch so I can do my daughter clutch think you
Is it a lot of trouble to do should I take to a dealer
thank you very much
I pulling a motor out of one these,they are horrible things..
My question is how in the fuck in the a and w ad do they have the burger already befire they get into the drive thru like wtf wheres the common sense in that
so thats what ya been doing chasing chicks lol
Also how you jacked that car up does not look safe but I’ve done worse lol.
Omfg... i need take apart half car to take off that sh*t??😮