NEVER Buying a Bike With THIS Again
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- This should have been a lot easier.
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Just skip the floss part… once you have the cable in the bike just feed the housing using that cable as a guide. When the housing is all the way through just remove the cable and put it in the proper way.
I was about to say the same thing. You made more work and frustration for yourself.
100% this … had me yelling at the video 😀
Yep, cable is more manueverable than housing. Sometimes electrical wires will work nicely as well if you can find a decent size if in a pinch.
Also, start by leaving the cable in place to begin with and it will be your guide without having to take it out in the first place. I've run plenty of dynamo wiring in this fashion. Another neat trick, if your cable is not in already, is to run a headless derailleur cable, find the hole and then use shrink tubing over the end of the cable . Use the same shrink tubing to attach whatever you're guiding through the frames -- in my case dynamo wires. Works every time. Finesse not brute force. But it helps to play Death Metal-something while doing this just in case having that der. cable find the hole is a little, um, tedious.
Yes, another thing I've used is a piece of plastic weedeater line; it's flexible, but stiff and it can be bent and sorta holds the bend. I use it for routing dynamo light wires through the fork.
I typically leave the old housing in and remove the old cable first. Then I run the new cable through the old housing. Then I remove the old housing and use the new cable as a guide for the new housing.
I feel you on the internal routing. 🙌🙌🙌
hello gangster 🙌🏼
I was saving for this frame for a couple years when it was still an external route version, sigh
Looks good but buried cables a pain
I was going to mention your method to get that hole a little bigger! 😁😁😁😁😁
I actually bought the Park Tool internal routing tool for my school shop after watching your video. One of the things that I am trying to teach my students is how to research, beforehand, to know what tools that you are going to need for a particular job. Having the right tool is almost as important as having the right know-how.
I ride a 2x and have been pressured by my bike buds to "get modern!" After all the riding I've done through the mountains of Baja, I will keep the 2x. I love the range. Don't mind the extra derailleur. I love those cranks!
My 2x has the equilavent of a 32 front 61 tooth rear for climbing. Id like to see a rear cassette with 61 teeth🤣
@@johndef5075 Careful what you wish for, 50t cassettes were unthinkable just a few years ago.
@@johndef5075 I'd just get off and walk. Would probably be faster at that point.
I run the cable through, then push the housing onto the cable, using the cable as a guide. Basically the brute force method, but the cable is a guide, rather than a pulling device.
I did the same! Much easier to finish the job.
This works. Bravo.
I saw a GCN video a while back where the mechanic ran the cable in to the frame and fished it out of the other side using an piece of brake cable housing with the wire unraveled a bit so it could be used as a hook. I've never had to run an internal cable but that seems like a good way to do it. Is this what you did? Or do you recommend a different way?
@@dhammittify if nothing works this can be a solution but I'd try using the cable as a guide first. Just put the housing on the cable and push it till it exits on the other side.
I didn't buy this bike because of the internal routing change last year, I've had this nightmare with other bikes, never again! Glad you finally got it! Don't know why we just can't keep things external....
I’ve found that I only need to be 10% smarter than the bike I’m working on. You clear that margin easily! Thanks for sharing your humility and more great content!
I just love it when those little twenty minute jobs turn in to 20 hours/days/weeks! Honestly, I could feel your pain and while you may have done some "creative editing" to cut out some parts, you did pretty well at staying composed!
Would recommend putting grease on BB threads instead of loctite, it's something you want to be able to remove in the future and when torqued correctly they won't ever rattle loose. With the internal routing, you would have been better off feeding the housing through the initial cable you put through rather than the floss, the stiffness off the cable helps the housing wiggle around the bends of the exit port more easily. Build is dope though
Absolutely. I've never seen Loctite put on a bottom bracket before. They're hard enough to remove, even if grease was used.
Yup was wondering why loctite given the LH/RH thread setup should prevent any loosening.
@@larrygross1248 External Shimano BBs come with Loctite pre-applied. And I've actually ran into an issue on an MTB, where I transferred all components from one bike to another and the BB would always get loose in a couple of weeks and I installed it with anti-seize first, later generic grease and It just wouldn't hold until I got Loctite on it.
When I was 14 I bought a used norco and the bottom bracket fell out on the second ride
Really great video, Russ. Thanks for posting. I appreciate that you show how a normal guy who is an experienced mechanic may still need to really persevere to accomplish certain jobs. Too many videos leave out the struggle.
It's also great to see how people try to outsmart the old ways, and then come back to them after suffering. Industry told us that 1x and internal routing were the way to go, many people believed them, and then over time, we see why people who pedaled at party pace had eschewed them all along.
Pro tip: Pull the shift cable through the frame first, then slide the housing onto the cable and through your frame.
Bikes in the last 4 years seem not allow a front mech. Designed that way or to allow bigger 27.5/29er wheels perhaps. I personally not sold on 1x. I'm not ashamed to ride steel framed vintage mountain bikes. 3x7/3x8 even a 3x9. It works
I standardized on 3x8 with Ergos managing the FD. 8 speed chain on the side on a MTN in Peru, NO problem.
Not ashamed? I am proud to ride my old, steel framed bikes......with 3x7/8. And I suspect you are too.
Agreed, Joe N. I was insistent that my most recent bike purchase was a 2x GRX. In just a few years, folks might be looking back at the current 1x trend, and shaking their heads...
If it works, don't try to fix it!😉👍🏻
Those BB's come with a plastic ring that adapts a standard HT2 tool to work on them.
I was thinking the same thing. Then the Feedback Sports BB wrench works great.
What's worth having in the home shop is a length of the thin ptfe lining from a scrap piece of shifter housing. Just cut the housing open and pull it out. Use the lining to guide the cabling in and and back out of the frame.
Hey Russ, I feel the internal routing hate. For your BB you should use a healthy amount of anti seize paste on the threads. Alu BB cups and Ti frames can be a nightmare to remove without it
I very much appreciate you're not blindsided by what is currently fashionable.
Kudos to you for your patience. Internal cable routing: no thanks. Totally worth swapping in the 2x; my Silver 32-22 double is truly great for spinning up the hills. 👍🏻
I have a late 80’s cross bike and it has a guided top tube internal brake line. If they were able to do it back then, we should be able to do it now! Haha
The worst is internal routed bars and stem.
The worst bike I ever had to route cables through when I was a mechanic was a Cervelo tri bike. Total nightmare and took almost a whole day of frustration.
@@justin10054 tri bikes are the worst!!
100% agree on internal routing. The clean look of it all is nice, but I would much rather have it all as accessible as possible. I love to tinker, and I want as few obstacles as possible for when I swap components around when I am diving deep into the cave of bad ideas.
This channel has been great for me and my Midnight Special. I hacked my Rival drivetrain with a GX Eagle and 11-50t cassette. Also I run a manual 2x for times when I really need lower gearing. I wax my chain so it's quick and clean to move the chain to a smaller front chainring without a front derailleur. Thanks for everything you do Russ and Laura!
Take two pieces of floss. Pull one down from the top port to the bb with shop vac. Secure it for the moment. Pull second floss from lower cable port to bb with shop vac. Tie ends of floss together and then you have it threaded between both cable ports
My 2x mullet setup, 50-36 and 11-40 using Ultegra STI and FD, with a GRX RD and a Wolftooth Goatlink. Set up to safely run big/big, using semi-syncro shifting with Di2 takes care of making sure I never run small and too small and lose chain tension. I've got the range to go up to a 42 or 46 on the cassette if needed, and could swap chainrings if I needed even more climbing power. 2x is too versatile to ignore, and Di2 takes it even further safely.
you should change your cassette to use a 10-38 or 10-36 even and then size down both your chainrings and then you can get away with a large spread easier using a 10t cog.
@@chrisprice5806 I could, but I have specifically geared the bike so in routine riding I generally only land in the 11 tooth going downhill, or with a big tailwind, and only land on the 40 going up a steeeep hill, or loaded down. I'm heavy and try to extend chain and cassette life by minimizing how small a cog I turn.
@@mrhankbotful i once thought the same about the 11 vs 10, regarding chain life but then i bought a pack of 3 10t cogs.
also i use wd-40 and a park tool chain cleaner (they break, they are not really great, someone else im sure does better) regularly and that keeps metal particles from grinding my rollers down. oh.. i run like 120-something rollers because i added a masterlink and some rollers because i use a 54t chain ring with a 32t cog and also becasue of chain life and the respective profile [of the longer wearing chain] wear on the cogs/chainring.
@@chrisprice5806 I've been using the Park Tool chain cleaner for about 5 years. It does an OK job if you do 2 passes and hose the chain off between. I generally use Finish Line Dry lube, but am just now trying out a new ultrasonic cleaner and going to full on hot wax a couple chains for my gravel bike and see how that performs. I'd like to cut down on cleaning and lubing after every dusty ride (basically almost every ride in Nebraska 9 months of the year). Extended chain and cassette life are claimed perks of hot waxing the chain.
I don't have any complaints about my gearing, I'm used to running 52/36 and 11-32 on my old gravel bike, so 50/34 and 11-40 is a huge range, with plenty of speed AND climbing ability. I have an 11-34 cassette on my carbon wheelset, and a Di2 Ultegra RD if I want to run lightweight, close ratio, and am not climbing and super steep hills.
Plus, I'm not keen to swap out my freehubs to microspline and buy new cassettes.
@@mrhankbotful im bothered by how the two cleaners ive had the first brush doesnt roll often and thats the one that kicks up a substaintal part of the cleaner
I recently ordered a new frame that's offered with external or internal routing. Thank you for validating my decision to go external.
You just helped me stick with my 2x and 3x (3x 6spd freewheel) drivetrains and good old external routing. Really appreciate your candor and patience or did you edit all the cussing out.
Love that 38/24 crank which is just what I've been contemplating. Let's us know how it works for you.
6 speed freewheel? that's not just archaic but bad engineering; at least go 7 speed cassette.
@@petesmitt attached to Shimano Dura Ace hub and Magic open 4cd rims. It works and it stays. Just fine for commutes, exploring and grocery shopping.
+1 on that. I have steered away from internal anything for a long time. I recently got a replacement fork from Whisky that had internal routing and I said NOPE and taped/zip tied that sucker onto the outside of the fork. No fucking time for that shit!
Good effort! I used to enjoy being a bike mechanic, but internal routing really makes it much less fun; routing through bars, stem, and headset has really been the nail in the coffin for my passion for being on the tools.
I feel your pain. While internally routed cables make for a clean tidy look, I hate working on them. (Shakes fist in the air.)
Just a quick tip: the ball end on the shifter or brake cable isn't steel, it's usually zinc or something similar and, more importantly, non-magnetic. The cable itself is a good magnetic steel though, so you will often have better luck fishing the cable through small-end first rather than big-end first.
Also a set of o-ring picks can be very useful for getting the cable housing to come out that last tiny bit through the hole.
Hey Russ - The Park IR-1.2 cable routing kit works awesome! It comes with fittings for about any internal cabling job. You do a fair amount of bike builds so for $68 maybe worth it?
Whole heartedly second this! Cable routing kit makes this issue so easy to deal with
Or a generic one for like $15-20
@@WordupG i used a small bearing taped to a string, and used a magnet
We have all been at this point with internal cabels. I am very glad you shared the frustration and the real joy when suddenly the b.... cable comes out the right hole - yipeee!
Cheap and Green way to get a low gear double crankset: buy a used triple crankset and replace the large outside chainring with a bash guard. You can find them in all kinds of gear combos. 50/42/30 for standard road triple, all the way down to 46/36/24 for standard mountain. Take off the large chainring on each and you have either a 42/30 or 36/24. This reduces waste since you're reusing something that someone else doesn't want. There's loads of triple cranks on Ebay.
The nice road ones ain't usually cheap, but there seem to be more mountain cranks available for reasonable deals.
Was out on a fast group road ride once, and couldn't shift up into the big ring. I could tell by the shift lever action that there was a problem with the cable. So I reached down to the left side of the down tube, yanked on the exposed cable, and it shifted up perfectly. The housing under the BB shell had gotten dirty. Some will argue that the exposed cables created the problem, but I have exposed routing under the BB on my internally routed bike as well. Having access to the cable meant the problem was a non issue and didn't end/ruin my ride. Zen and the Art, baby. Zen and the Art...
It was worth watching this very frustrating process just to hear Russ giggle when he succeeded! Thanks for another great video.
I know that internal routing has some nice benefits. But I find it unnecessary. For a knuckle dragger such as myself, I'm much happier to replace the cables if they get wartled.
Thats just my own preference.
Great video. I love to watch other people work on bikes while I'm sitting here with my feet up. 🙃
This was real informative. I love the way you talk through your reasoning for doing this or that. These are points to consider when deciding what to buy. And, I’d consider you a pretty advanced bike mechanic with some of the projects you tackle!
Working on internal cabling isn't so bad, but working with internally routed hydraulic brake hosing is the worst! Especially if you're swapping over components from another frame. It's probably a good idea to leave a little extra hose length just in case you mess up on the barb and olive...which I did like 3 times! After it's all done, it does look really slick with no exposed cabling!
That's the dumbest decision possible. If you need to do any maintenance it becomes a tedious (if you diy) or expensive. The ideal is the brake line running outside the frame. Not as visually slick but better on everything else.
@@hugosantana7253 My current gravel frame is designed to be internally routed. I also did try leaving the brake line externally routed for a time, but using 3M cable guides and zip ties didn't look all that great. I did consider swapping my brake/shifter components to mechanical, but it wasn't worth losing the advantages of better hydraulic brake performance.
Most of my bikes are internal and it brings me great joy to use the park tools internal kit after hours of struggling with a vacuum and floss
I enjoyed this video. When working on my bike I'm always misplacing the small parts and spend a large percentage of my time searching for them.
Internal routing is great. Until you need to change cables.
I'm lucky my bikes have very large holes with rubber stoppers for internal routing, mainly for the factory workers to do it faster.
The magnet method is actually what most of us do. One of my friends uses a fishing line with a magnet at the end, threads it through, pulls it out the other end with another magnet, removes the magnets, ties it to the cable housing and pulls it through.
Going 2x is a great choice in your case especially, let's face it, the weight difference is negligible with all the equipment you carry with you.
The advantage that the lower ratio provides greatly overweighs whatever weight disadvantage there is.
I was given a Klein road bike that has internal routing of the cables and like a dummy I removed the cables and housing when I changed the integrated shift/brake levers from Shimano to Campagnolo. The rear brake cable, with housing, went straight in without any fuss, like I literally pushed the cable housing with cable in one hole and it popped out the other. Then I realized that I hadn't routed it through the handlebars (also internally routed) so I had to pull it out and start over after running the housing through the handlebar. The second time I was not so lucky but I found that a neodymium magnet was able to attract my steel braided brake line and guide it to the hole. For the derailleur cables one went straight through the exit hole while the other took a bit of finagling and using a magnet but I was able to do it, eventually. It's not difficult, just tedious. I almost resorted to the floss and vacuum trick but was able to do it without needing to do that. A lot of it has to do with luck and some of it has to do with prep.
The best way is to plan ahead. When you want to or need to replace the cable and the casing Don't Pull the Cable and Casing out in a single action. Release the anchor binder on the cable. Do not cut the cable or the casing. If the open end of the cable is frayed, trim it down a little to remove the rough end. Hold the mushroom or barrel head end of the cable and pull the casing out with the cable still in the frame. Leave that cable in place. You can use that casing as a guide to the new casing length. Put your new casing onto as much of the exposed original open cable as you can. If you hold the head of the cable, you can sometimes get the new casing to slide over the old cable until it comes out of the frame. If the casing stops before it gets out of the frame, release your grip on the head. Now, push the casting all the way through with the cable guiding it out the exit.
So happy that my mountain bike is externally routed. Was honestly a big selling point for me.
Heat shrink wrap the end of the old cable to the end of the new cable. Make sure there's plenty of overlap with the shrink wrap and just push the new housing in. No magnets, no Bs.
An expensive titanium bike spoiled by the manufacturer economizing by using a 1x drivetrain. Internal cable routing looks good but as you say makes simple jobs complicated (and soaks up some of the weight advantage of titanium?). Drop bars are your other source of complexity.
For most purposes steel frame, 3x drivetrain, flat bars, MTB tech with separate (hydraulic) brake and gear levers, external cables, go together to make life simple reliable and inexpensive.
Once you get brake cable in you can shove it into shift housing, rather than tie a knot
My Lynskey has a "tube in the tube" arrangement. It's a welcome feature.
Great work as always Russ. I really want to see you experimenting with some REALLY weird bikes though - get your ass out on a Bike Friday, a tandem, a recumbent, a tall bike..... the possibilities are endless. Lets see you renovate a classic bike from the 80s!
Yep. Internal routing is for looks only. Maybe slightly more aero on a road or tt race bike. I have had a couple bikes with internal routing and I’ve figured out how to reroute housings, but I tend to leave cable replacement too long because I dislike changing the housing out immensely. Plus sometimes internal routing has more bends than external and cable friction is higher. And you also need some way to keep the cable housing from rattling inside.
"I'll be doing this all night" is the same thing I said to myself last time I worked on an internal routed bike. It's all external routing now after I nearly threw a carbon Felt full-sus over a balcony dealing with that crap. Plus those things rattle like hell if they have full internal housing. I even got to the point of buying foam pipe insulation from home depot and stuffed it into the downtube to stop the housing from rattling. lol.
😆
I laughed, I cried, I cheered! Great video
I feel for you. I hate internal routing. Retro grouch in me says there is nothing wrong with external routing. Makes maintenance a heck of a lot easier.
Regarding internal routing I striped back some data cable and it worked great. I used two cores. I fed one core in from the bottom and hooked it out from the top with the other.
Yeah, internal cable routing can be hell depending on how it's implemented. Also love how everything old is new again... front shifting for the win.
I have the same bike. I kept the original hard wire housing guides. I curved them a little and have been able to get them through a couple of times. Then I basically inset the housing into the wire and pull the wire+cable through the frame. Also I agree the chainstay exit sucks. I struggled for hours to do the rear brake with Yokozuna housings because the housings are too stiff
Most of my internal routing has been aided by using a spare spoke as a hook to fish out one end. Still a giant PITA, but it got the job done.
oh man all you need is the right technique. you need to tape the new housing on the floss. the ends of the new housing covered in tape also makes it so the tape will shape into a "funnel" (somewhat) and as you pull the floss, it brings out the tape progressively until eventualy the housing comes out. just about 2in of tape should do it. tape is the key
Amen! Down with internal routing..I shudder to think what *problem* the industry will try and fix next
I feel your pain. Even working as a mechanic sometimes you have those days when you lose the cable or housing in the frame… and your heart sinks and you think “there goes at least a half hour of my life.” And now add e-bike cables in the mix, which you can’t push. Liners are your friend!
My trick is to hook the cable using the smallest hex wrench you have. Only takes around two to three sweeps.
Remember copper grease on those aluminum BB cups! Its a TI frame, it will not only seize but chemical weld!
Try floss with a 1/4 cotton ball tied on it, tape non cotton ball end to the frame so it doesn't all come thru, use vacuum to suck the cotton thru the other hole, run the cable first by tying onto floss, then pull housing onto the cable
F that. I sold it and never looked back.
If it were me, I'd rather get a Shimano 2x hollowtech crankset than a crank that involves aluminum arms and square-taper bottom brackets. I hate dealing with crank pullers and stripped aluminum threads.
Also, Shimano has gotten the tech sauce right when it comes to smooth front shifting, so Shimano chainrings all the way!
Lastly, adjusting 2x is waaaaay easier than 3x. You just need to set the lower limit screw, get the cable bolted around the ballpark, then index the higher gear via the barrel adjuster. The limit screw decides the lower gear index, and the cable tension decides the higher gear index. Each adjustment dealing with 1 chainring, so pretty easy to deal with.
Internal routing is something where the right tool just makes it a breeze ether the park tool or jag wire kit both work great
I’ve been working bikes for (ahem…makes me fee old) 50 years. I’ve found that there is a formula for buying tools.
$t x 1 > $s x n = don’t purchase tool
$t x 1 < $s x n = purchase tool
$t: price of tool.
$s: Price that a shop will charge.
n: how many times you estimate you’re going to need tool.
Example: Tool cost $70. Shop cost $35
You’re going to do repair once: $70 For tool $35 for shop. don’t buy tool.
You’re going to do repair ten times: $70 for tool $350 for shop. buy tool.
I lucked out on my new to me Kona Jake the Snake frame as it has internal routing with bosses on each end so all you do is cut your housing like a bike with normal bosses and then just stick the cable through and it's all pre guided inside the bike, very handy. That said it's not my first bike with any sort of internal routing, my late 80's Trek 1200 and 2500 all have the rear brake housing internally routed, though it's an extremely easy route to run.
It took me ages to re-cable my internally routed frame. I mounted it vertically in the stand, fed the housing in from the highest point and hooked it out of the lowest point with a pick.
I love the clean look of internal routing but there's a lot of plus points to external routing when it comes to maintenance.
This is how I do it, too, though I usually use the j-bend end of a spoke
Thanks man, I have the same problem with my bike and you have shown me the way!
I have 3 mountain bikes all 1 by and recently purchased a gravel bike with a 2 by would never think about changing it to a 1 by. The 2 by 10 is simple and so much better on my road / trail rides.
The answer is SRAM AXS lol. GRX semi-wireless 12 speed coming in 2023
I’m meh on e shifting.
Yup, been there. I think internal routing of mechanical cables is a questionable idea on most bikes, but internal routing on a touring/bikepacking bike is particularly annoying, pointless and counter-productive.
But it does mean you don't have the cables rubbing against a frame bag
Internally guided cable housing is fine though, never had any issues on my Salsa Beargrease, just depends on the bike. Having a failure out on a bikepack trip without internally guided cables sounds like the stuff of nightmares though...
That's the best part of riding a high spec 90s titanium hardtail monstercross conversion -- internal routing isn't an option, so I've saved days of time! 🙂
Also, with a tough one you want to thread it in through the smaller hole and receiving it on the large hole end
OMG, it happened! It happened! I totally understand that exclamation.
I would have slide the housing half way up the cable, then feed the cable AND housing into the entry port. Once its all in there, use the magnet technique to get the cable out, and then push the rest of the housing in. Thats what I end up doing and its been working just fine.
Feed the cable in, use a flashlight at the bottom of the tube to see where the end of the cable when it bottoms out. Fold a zip tie in half and stick it through the hole, capture the cable end in the zip tie, pull through the hole, OR use a pair of HEMOSTATS to grip the cable. Feed the housing over the cable. It will guide itself through. The process takes 5 minutes.
Like I said. I'm a pretty shitty mechanic.
FYI if no one already said it, it's not a GRX BB cup thing, Shimano changed the size on ALL of them so the older tools don't work. Most of the newer cups come with a plastic adapter to use with the older larger tool.
Deore and XT are still the larger size. Only the road oriented ones shrank.
Yep. Working on many bikes with various internal routings does get easier with experience. However still can’t see why designers of expensive bikes can’t come up with a simple solution. Biggest headache though is brake hose through headset,so replacing headset bearing involves stripping brake hose,bleeding etc..
Gotta say, after you mentioned the internal routing being a bear when you bought it, I made sure to get the Park Tool internal routing magnety thingy when I picked up my Bearclaw. The cable paths and ports are definitely the biggest gripe I have.
I have a 2x with no front derailleur. I manually put the chain on a different cog. 99% of the time I never have to leave the big ring, but for that other 1% of the time it sure comes in handy.
Had the same trouble with a Kona CX bike. I tried hanging the frame upside down on the stand, tilted to the side... and it worked. On this bike just the cable going through the frame not the housing.
Shame that Bearclaw changed the design. My Thunderhawk is all external with zip-tie fittings. Purchased in June of 2020.
Glad my 2019 Thunderhawk is externally routed. The newer frame’s geo may be but more up to date, but the internal routing is a regression IMHO.
I bought a used bike with internal routing, never again. I consider myself an experienced self-taught bicycle mechanic, I have built up several bikes and all function nice, but the internal routing bicycle I could not for the life of me get the rear to shift right despite hours of troubleshooting, out of frustration I took it to a LBS and they couldn't get it to shift correctly. Finally, I stripped it of its components and put them on an externally routed frame and it worked like a dream, so it was the frame, no the components. The frame is in a box and up in the attic.
Bravo Russ!!! I'd never even consider attempting that! 😅 I let the professionals take care of my bikes. Love the channel ❤
I’m about to replace some worn out housing and cable on my internally routed MTB soon and I’ve put it off mostly out of a desire to not struggle with it 😆
This is cool though, glad the hard part worked out for ya!
The smart way is to pull the string (or small diameter plastic tubing) through using the existing cable - just attach it to the existing cable before you pull it out!
Takes patience to another level. Well played...👏👏
I converted my sutra ltd 22 model to a 2x and it was a bear to figure out. There were essentially no guides for a FD, a dropper post port that I had to work around and spacing issues galore! Once I threw on a deore 24/38 crankset I was in the clear and have loved the range I get with that and an 11-40 rear cassette. It's especially handy when I'm carrying alot of gear on mixes terrain.
It's good to see once in a while someone like me having difficulties and not editing to look good in the picture. I do share your opinion. Good video.
We use a variation of the magnet trick all the time at the shop I work at which is why internal routed steel frame bike are the worst thing I have ever encountered.
Rocking a 36/22 with 11-46 here! 🤘
i have a 95 klein pulse [built with same torture method] - luckily was able to hold my tongue just right when necessary
Anti seize everything on a Titanium frame. And then turn every bolt or reapply at least once a year. Titanium and dissimilar metal are prime for seizing up.
Shimano has, at a minimum, three different diameters for their Hollowtech BBs
"cheap" BBs have the "big" diameter most tools are built around
XT standard
and DuraAce standard, that is so similar to the XT you will assume they are the same when buying online, but no, it will require one extra step-down adapter.
About 3:15 seconds in and my anxiety level is through the roof! Good persistence! -Greg
Russ, couldn't you have just slipped the housing over the already-routed cable, and slid it down its length to guide it through?
Sounds like it was a 1x setup before, so no derailleur cable was routed.
@@weltron3030 but... he put a cable through. Could have just eliminated the floss step.
not enough tension when JUST using the cable. Did you watch the video?
@@weltron3030 Yes, but then he managed to get a shifter cable through - why go through all the riggamaroll with the floss rather than sliding the housing down the newly-routed cable?
@@PathLessPedaledTV Yup. Having just done that job myself a couple of weeks back, I could relate, but seemed to me there were extra steps in there. I wasn't there, so... glad you managed to get it done, anyway.
aproach: IFFF it is not a steel bike: put the shifting/brake cable into the frame and guide it through with a strong magnet. After the cable is through the exit you can put the housing onto the wire the other way. shabaz, cable and housing on.
i feel you on the newer thinner BBs tho, i needed to use a pipe wrench last time
The 1x1 never made sense to me, because having a double in front, gives you much lower gearing AND a bigger range. I only would prefer someting like 42x26. BTW, if you thought this was complicated, try building up a modern carbon bike, with internal routing, where the cabling also goes through the headset and stem internally. Great fun!
Don't you need a longer chain when adding that double? You may max out the rear derailleur with that setup. The chain must fit big-big. Don't worry about the small-small slack.
@@janeblogs324 I agree. However, the possibility still exists that you may shift into it accidentally. With the chain too short, expensive damage will result.
It’s sad that other than a few outliers like Rivendale, technology design improvements have lost the beauty of simplicity and reliability. It’s a badge of honor to have these beautiful vintage designed components on our bikes.
I run a GRX 400 2x10 with a 11 36 cassette. If my numbers are correct this gives a 500% gear range and 13 different gear rations. Replacement parts are affordable. As I recall it's about 300 grams heavier than the more expensive stuff. The bigger gear range seems to be far more useful. I am absolutely certain I am faster than GRX 800 1 x 11. Maybe it's different for a pro. The question is why aren't there reviews that explain this???