Hi Jeff, weather predicters were wrong again in central Mn. Fertilizer is down and now no rain today. It was forecast to rain yesterday and today now I am not sure what my next step will be if there is no rain in the near future. Thanks for the video Jeff.
We got all your rain today and last nite here in Indiana. But, it got me off schedule! Glad to have the rain obviously and calling for rain end of next week and weekend. I'm in pretty good shape on most plots, but definitely going to use this method soon as it dries up enough to get back in there.
Put down clover chicory blend into buckwheat yesterday rolled it down sprayed the property i could and gonna put out some forage oats later 2 weeks waiting of a definite forcast of rain then im gonna hit it with fertilizer
I Do a two day weekend process...With Ideal soil conditions...Saturday Ill mow and spray roundup. Next day Ill throw down beassica turnip blend, with rutabaga and sugar beat... then cultipack it... then throw down urea fertilizer...And let it go...A month later Ill throw down another dose of urea... By the opener september 15th its been a couple weeks for everything to settle down a bit. It works great😄
I definitely made that mistake this year with the herbicide seeding... I used Triclopyr and glyphosate because we had poison ivy taking over a little over 2 acre plot. (Been hitting with lime) I just learned that the Triclopyr can stay in the soil for 30 days!! Needless to say, I'll have to layer winter rye now in that plot. EDIT: I add ladino clover in with my rye so it'll be gorgeous next year.
I sprayed glyphosate and a slightly lower rate of 24d. (1 quart on 3 acres) on the 30th of july. I tilled the entire field on the 31st and then I planted the whole field to brassica on the 2nd of august. Am I completely screwed? Or since I tilled will the 24d come out the ground faster than 10 days?
Hi Joe! Honestly all I've ever done is wash it out with clean water...usually 5 gallons or so. Always had great luck. We re placed the Pump on the Fimco this year, but it lasted thru at least 400 acres...
I'm a little confused on something. I have already sprayed gly and 24d last week And I planned to spread seed and fertilizer and then mow it down to create a thatch layer on top for moisture and protection from turkeys and birds. In the video you said dont do that, 1 reason is because of lack of sunlight. I'm confused as to why in the ultimate no till with buckwheat, that is it OK to roll/crimp that down over top of the seeds. Wouldn't it create the same situation in regards to sunlight? I thought I understood that creating that thatch layer on top was an important piece to the puzzle in no till plots.
The great thing about the buckwheat is that at 50#s per acre there is a stem about every 4". Also, buckwheat is about 80% moisture. Also when you roll (a crimper is never needed or preferred) the buckwheat lays down evenly. So an even coverage with rolling buckwheat and a high moisture content means that sun gets to germinating seeds within a week. Since seed won't germinate for several days at best...this is perfect. Mowed thatch on the other hand is a completely different story. Depending on the height of the weeds the thatch can be too thick to allow sunlight to the ground. Because the thatch of weeds and grasses is a very low moisture content it does not breakdown for months...or more. Also, the thatch of rye, for example...can carry millions of seeds that now become variable for germination, ultimately outcompeting your actually food plot seed. In some cases mowing is ok...for example on 12-15" high rye in the spring over beans, but in most cases it is a very bad, risky practice only used it recommended by food plotters lacking the experience to know better. No offense to you...but so many are steered poorly by online hacks. Also, while some seeds like beans and please can break thru thatch depending on the volume of thatch...even those larger seeds have their limits under clumped and uneven cuttings. And smaller seeds like clover, brassica, chicory, alfalfa, bird's-foot trefoil, etc...can't survive if th thatch is a 1/4" under the thatch or more. The results become unpredictable and never great, and in some cases will be a total failure. The best you can hope for us "ok", and even then that will happen a low % of the time. When you comsider the fact that some of the thatch will have weed seeds that pop with your food plot seed now that it had been mowed and released onto the ground, your potential for a good food plot via mowing thatch on top of your seed is marginal at best.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 This makes sense Jeff, thanks for taking the time to explain it. Last year my field looked like the one in the video. I mowed it, waited 10 days and sprayed gly and 2-4d. Planted my mix and had very mediocre results as you described above. I let time get away from me again this year and the field looked like this again, 4 ft tall of weeds. I bush hogged it 2 weeks ago. Sprayed it last week with gly and 2-4d. It's currently about 15" tall of new growth, which is what I just sprayed. My plan was to seed and fertilize it in the next week or 2 (W. TN area) and then mow again for the thatch over it. Obviously I am rethinking that now. So knowing what state I am currently in with this thing, what do you think the best chance of any success will be to get something established for us to hunt over? I was going to just plant rye, oats, peas. I don't have an option to burn the thatch that's there. I do have access to a tractor, box blade, bushhog, or tiller. No disc. Thanks again Jeff
I have a 1gallon sprayer, shoulder strap spreader, and lawn mower with a pull behind aerator. How do I make sure I get the right chemical coverage with a hand sprayer? And would it be a good idea to use the aerator prior to spreading seed?
I use a 4gallon backpack sprayer. You can buy a dye that goes in with your chemicals and it'll show you what you've sprayed. Very helpful to let you know what you've got covered and what you don't.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
0:05
“And you have done nothing.”
Those be fight’n words Jeff. 😂😂😂
🤣
Priceless information jeff. I love to learn from other's mistakes. saves me time, money and frustration, i hate weeds and rocks
I love watching your posts, they have taught my brother & myself a lot.....Thanks and keep doing what you're doing!
I really appreciate that Jeff...best of luck to you guys this Fall. Coming SOON!!
Doing my fall food plots this coming week!
Excellent, in Texas wait two months, it’s still hard drought and 100-110 every da-n day.
Amen to that!
Good to know oats can survive 24d, got a fresh crop of ragweed, hitting it today will plant in a week or so. Thanks Jeff
For sure!
Hi Jeff, weather predicters were wrong again in central Mn. Fertilizer is down and now no rain today. It was forecast to rain yesterday and today now I am not sure what my next step will be if there is no rain in the near future. Thanks for the video Jeff.
Hi Art...man, what I've been seeing all day is rain coming on the radar for much of MN
I hope it hits you!
Hi Art, I’m in the same situation as you! I live south of St. Cloud
We got all your rain today and last nite here in Indiana.
But, it got me off schedule!
Glad to have the rain obviously and calling for rain end of next week and weekend. I'm in pretty good shape on most plots, but definitely going to use this method soon as it dries up enough to get back in there.
Put down clover chicory blend into buckwheat yesterday rolled it down sprayed the property i could and gonna put out some forage oats later 2 weeks waiting of a definite forcast of rain then im gonna hit it with fertilizer
??? Hay grass previous. Mowed 3 -4 weeks ago .
Still spray w/ glysophate and 24d . Then oats/peas. East central Texas. Steve
I Do a two day weekend process...With Ideal soil conditions...Saturday Ill mow and spray roundup. Next day Ill throw down beassica turnip blend, with rutabaga and sugar beat... then cultipack it... then throw down urea fertilizer...And let it go...A month later Ill throw down another dose of urea... By the opener september 15th its been a couple weeks for everything to settle down a bit. It works great😄
Hi Jeff I appreciate your videos! Can I mow and rake up the thatch and then seed and spray to get a better kill with seed to soil contact? Thanks!
Mowed previously but grown over now. Still use your “menu”
Need rain in the forecast before i broadcast fall plot blends. Today's rain forecast did not pan out 😢. Getting late for central WI 😰
You are still good if there is rain in the next 10 days+ 😊
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Thanks
I definitely made that mistake this year with the herbicide seeding... I used Triclopyr and glyphosate because we had poison ivy taking over a little over 2 acre plot. (Been hitting with lime) I just learned that the Triclopyr can stay in the soil for 30 days!!
Needless to say, I'll have to layer winter rye now in that plot.
EDIT: I add ladino clover in with my rye so it'll be gorgeous next year.
If you can not spray three times and only once during planting due to distance to the property, what is the best option to keep weeds at bay? Thanks!
I love the show you guys do a great job keep up the good work. Quick question is it too late to grow something in hardwoods area?
We are planting in the RAIN Today!!
I sprayed glyphosate and a slightly lower rate of 24d. (1 quart on 3 acres) on the 30th of july. I tilled the entire field on the 31st and then I planted the whole field to brassica on the 2nd of august. Am I completely screwed? Or since I tilled will the 24d come out the ground faster than 10 days?
the field was already mostly dead from previous spraying but just wanted to kill everything before I planted with another spraying
Jeff ,,, how do you clean your FIMCO tank and protect the pump ??
Hi Joe! Honestly all I've ever done is wash it out with clean water...usually 5 gallons or so. Always had great luck. We re placed the Pump on the Fimco this year, but it lasted thru at least 400 acres...
Gosh , you are lucky !! ,,, if I use anything other than plain Gly , ( surfactant or 24d or Remedy ) the pump valves and pressure are damaged ,,,
I'm a little confused on something. I have already sprayed gly and 24d last week
And I planned to spread seed and fertilizer and then mow it down to create a thatch layer on top for moisture and protection from turkeys and birds. In the video you said dont do that, 1 reason is because of lack of sunlight.
I'm confused as to why in the ultimate no till with buckwheat, that is it OK to roll/crimp that down over top of the seeds. Wouldn't it create the same situation in regards to sunlight? I thought I understood that creating that thatch layer on top was an important piece to the puzzle in no till plots.
The great thing about the buckwheat is that at 50#s per acre there is a stem about every 4". Also, buckwheat is about 80% moisture. Also when you roll (a crimper is never needed or preferred) the buckwheat lays down evenly. So an even coverage with rolling buckwheat and a high moisture content means that sun gets to germinating seeds within a week. Since seed won't germinate for several days at best...this is perfect.
Mowed thatch on the other hand is a completely different story. Depending on the height of the weeds the thatch can be too thick to allow sunlight to the ground. Because the thatch of weeds and grasses is a very low moisture content it does not breakdown for months...or more. Also, the thatch of rye, for example...can carry millions of seeds that now become variable for germination, ultimately outcompeting your actually food plot seed.
In some cases mowing is ok...for example on 12-15" high rye in the spring over beans, but in most cases it is a very bad, risky practice only used it recommended by food plotters lacking the experience to know better. No offense to you...but so many are steered poorly by online hacks.
Also, while some seeds like beans and please can break thru thatch depending on the volume of thatch...even those larger seeds have their limits under clumped and uneven cuttings. And smaller seeds like clover, brassica, chicory, alfalfa, bird's-foot trefoil, etc...can't survive if th thatch is a 1/4" under the thatch or more.
The results become unpredictable and never great, and in some cases will be a total failure. The best you can hope for us "ok", and even then that will happen a low % of the time. When you comsider the fact that some of the thatch will have weed seeds that pop with your food plot seed now that it had been mowed and released onto the ground, your potential for a good food plot via mowing thatch on top of your seed is marginal at best.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 This makes sense Jeff, thanks for taking the time to explain it. Last year my field looked like the one in the video. I mowed it, waited 10 days and sprayed gly and 2-4d. Planted my mix and had very mediocre results as you described above.
I let time get away from me again this year and the field looked like this again, 4 ft tall of weeds. I bush hogged it 2 weeks ago. Sprayed it last week with gly and 2-4d. It's currently about 15" tall of new growth, which is what I just sprayed. My plan was to seed and fertilize it in the next week or 2 (W. TN area) and then mow again for the thatch over it. Obviously I am rethinking that now. So knowing what state I am currently in with this thing, what do you think the best chance of any success will be to get something established for us to hunt over? I was going to just plant rye, oats, peas. I don't have an option to burn the thatch that's there. I do have access to a tractor, box blade, bushhog, or tiller. No disc. Thanks again Jeff
I have a 1gallon sprayer, shoulder strap spreader, and lawn mower with a pull behind aerator. How do I make sure I get the right chemical coverage with a hand sprayer? And would it be a good idea to use the aerator prior to spreading seed?
I use a 4gallon backpack sprayer. You can buy a dye that goes in with your chemicals and it'll show you what you've sprayed. Very helpful to let you know what you've got covered and what you don't.
When do I fertilize?
At time of planting. Without a soil text I would spread 159#s of 19-19-19, and 1 jug of Plot Start per scre
Got to rain
End of july old video
Shot end of July, for early August 😉
First
I believe so Kurt 😊