Thanks so much Wes! Using this knowledge I basically got twice as much fertilizer for half the price of triple 19. Combining two bags and I have 18-46-60. The DAP and Potash weren't even in the retail space at the feed store I visited. I would never have asked if it weren't for this video.
For my high ph soil I’m using a 50% blend of MAP and 50% MOP which comes out to a 5.5-26-30 analysis and throw in a Micro Nutrient Package for my soybean and Deer Vetch plots. And for my fall cereals I’m using Sulfate which is 21-0-0 that has a good amount of Sulfur that crops need. Plots do extremely well. Enjoy the videos!
Like to seen you talk about cec alot of guys miss this big help and really helps you go farther and save a buck to.Looks like the cec is around a 9 so your only gonna hold around 90 lbs of N at any given time.
If you have a very low CEC (Cation exchange capacity) for your soil (like very sandy soils), the P & K will definitely go "someplace" - it leaches out and is gone. It will not be "stored"! I am in the Sandhills area of South Carolina (aptly named because we have sand, not "dirt") and my CEC measurements are typically about 1-2%, and have to add several hundred pounds/acre of 0-46-0 and 0-0-60 EVERY YEAR. Ditto on lime - 1000 lbs+/year, unfortunately. With the post-Covid increases for fertilizer and lime costs, I have had to significantly reduce the size and number of my food plots. I am even trying to encourage native forbs like pokeweed and ragweed to grow in some of the areas and skip any fertilizer and lime inputs there.
Straight sand can be really tough as a balance of sand silt and clay is the best combination of soil. Sand as I’m sure you’re aware, is amazing at draining, but at the same time that is one of sands major downfalls….very little moisture holding capacity. Can be very difficult to achieve but increasing soil organic matter can help with the moisture retention. Thanks for watching.
Wes, at what point in the food plot process do you fertilize, before planting, same time or after a certain # of days after germ... Planning on a soybean, cow peas, sunn hemp, sorghum, millet, sunflower blend in FL...with soybean and cowpea inoculant.
You don’t need any nitrogen for that system, all you need is p and k. I like to put it down a week or so b4 planting. Also if you are going to till the soil, put it down b4 you till, if your no tilling just throw it on top of the ground.
@DIYfoodplotpro the curremt location is kind of overgrown and needs a major bush hogging first. Do you think this mix would do okay in a no till situation.? I would think the seed needs to be covered, no?
Where do you get your soil tests done with the graph? I've been using the UofM and the test does confuse me with just the numbers. Thanks for the great info.
You prolly have enough nitrogen from the clover to supply nitrogen to the brassicas, generally clover is a heavy fixer of nitrogen. Usually I plant brassicas in the late summer/early fall….generally 60-90 days before the first frost. As far as your phosphorus and potassium goes, I would refer to the soil test. Thanks for watching
Carol thanks for sharing you experiences. I 100% agree that micros can be a major issue. I typically spray them on with my sprayer. Thanks for watching
So Wes, I did not inoculate my cow peas and I used 14- 4-14, they look great after 3 weeks, So the rule is, if you do not inoculate you need some N correct?
So the bacteria can and often is present in the soil….i always recommend inoculant on every field I plant, it’s cheap and it’s good insurance. Have you ever raised cow peas in that plot b4? I’d say as of right now the peas are using the 14 lbs of nitrogen that you put down. Thanks for watching
That is a great question! Yes they will, clover is one of the best crops at this and can leave over 100LBS of nitrogen in the soil. Typically with soybeans we figure on around 40LBS leftover after the crop has matured. Thanks for watching
Some would leach out but also some would become immobile as the plants are breaking down….and would be slowly releasing the nitrogen. Where I have soybeans the years prior I always cut my rate on the nitrogen for the following year, when planting corn, usually 30-50LBS per acre…not much but definitely some , as I said soybeans don’t have large amounts available typically 40lBS
Thanks dude, awesome knowledge You're sharing. Appreciate it very much! But it's called soil, like soooiiiil. Too funny, you southerners. Won't hold it against you, no worries, anyways, thanks for the education.😊
Thank you Matthew!! Haha you’re not the first that has wanted to watch my videos in closed captioning. Haha. Thanks for watching and good luck with the plots
Thanks so much Wes! Using this knowledge I basically got twice as much fertilizer for half the price of triple 19. Combining two bags and I have 18-46-60. The DAP and Potash weren't even in the retail space at the feed store I visited. I would never have asked if it weren't for this video.
That is wonderful news!!! Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching
Jam packed with great info! Good stuff~
Thank you sir! I appreciate you watching!
He should have 100k subs with this type of info! I share these videos with my fellow food plotters all the time.
Maybe one day I’ll get there…thanks for the support, I really appreciate it!
thank you , great info, new to farm planting
Good luck with the new food plots! Thanks for watching!
Suuper informative .. breaking down things soo we can understand n simplify !! Great Job thx 😎
Thank you sir, glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching
For my high ph soil I’m using a 50% blend of MAP and 50% MOP which comes out to a 5.5-26-30 analysis and throw in a Micro Nutrient Package for my soybean and Deer Vetch plots. And for my fall cereals I’m using Sulfate which is 21-0-0 that has a good amount of Sulfur that crops need. Plots do extremely well. Enjoy the videos!
Sounds like a great plan! I appreciate you sharing your experiences! Thanks for watching! I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos!
we used a blend of 5 10 15. its what the soil sample called for what we planted.
Sounds good! Good luck with your food plots and thanks for watching!
Love your channel Wes ! I need to come hunt your place next season 💪🏽
Thanks for support! I really appreciate you watching!
Like to seen you talk about cec alot of guys miss this big help and really helps you go farther and save a buck to.Looks like the cec is around a 9 so your only gonna hold around 90 lbs of N at any given time.
Thanks man! I appreciate you watching!
If you have a very low CEC (Cation exchange capacity) for your soil (like very sandy soils), the P & K will definitely go "someplace" - it leaches out and is gone. It will not be "stored"! I am in the Sandhills area of South Carolina (aptly named because we have sand, not "dirt") and my CEC measurements are typically about 1-2%, and have to add several hundred pounds/acre of 0-46-0 and 0-0-60 EVERY YEAR. Ditto on lime - 1000 lbs+/year, unfortunately. With the post-Covid increases for fertilizer and lime costs, I have had to significantly reduce the size and number of my food plots. I am even trying to encourage native forbs like pokeweed and ragweed to grow in some of the areas and skip any fertilizer and lime inputs there.
Straight sand can be really tough as a balance of sand silt and clay is the best combination of soil. Sand as I’m sure you’re aware, is amazing at draining, but at the same time that is one of sands major downfalls….very little moisture holding capacity. Can be very difficult to achieve but increasing soil organic matter can help with the moisture retention. Thanks for watching.
What great info
Thank you Steve!!
Wes, at what point in the food plot process do you fertilize, before planting, same time or after a certain # of days after germ...
Planning on a soybean, cow peas, sunn hemp, sorghum, millet, sunflower blend in FL...with soybean and cowpea inoculant.
You don’t need any nitrogen for that system, all you need is p and k. I like to put it down a week or so b4 planting. Also if you are going to till the soil, put it down b4 you till, if your no tilling just throw it on top of the ground.
@@DIYfoodplotpro thank you so much. Very helpful!
You’re more than welcome!
@DIYfoodplotpro the curremt location is kind of overgrown and needs a major bush hogging first. Do you think this mix would do okay in a no till situation.? I would think the seed needs to be covered, no?
Just got my lime and fertilizer down on my Ohio property this week.
Nice! Can’t wait to see what you haul in over there!
Any recommendations on places to mail in soil tests that provide that graph?
Waters agriculture laboratories is what I use. Thanks for watching
@DIYfoodplotpro wow, they have alot of options. Which of their tests do you suggest?
Where do you get your soil tests done with the graph? I've been using the UofM and the test does confuse me with just the numbers. Thanks for the great info.
Waypoint is where I get mine done at. Thanks for watching
I have a 50/50 mix of clover and brassicas growing. Planted about 2 weeks ago and it's coming to good. What would you add and when?
Also it's worth noting last year it was just clover and when I tilled it this year it was mostly clover.
You prolly have enough nitrogen from the clover to supply nitrogen to the brassicas, generally clover is a heavy fixer of nitrogen. Usually I plant brassicas in the late summer/early fall….generally 60-90 days before the first frost. As far as your phosphorus and potassium goes, I would refer to the soil test. Thanks for watching
@@DIYfoodplotpro thank you
We usually use 6-24-24, which is a soybean fertilizer.
Micronutrients are the hardest part to get done.
Carol thanks for sharing you experiences. I 100% agree that micros can be a major issue. I typically spray them on with my sprayer. Thanks for watching
@@DIYfoodplotpro If you spray them on remember to keep them agitated I use two pumps one to keep the wetable powders in solution and one to spray.
Great information! Thanks for sharing
Great video! What blend would you recommend for WGF sorghum? Heavy clay soil - 33 CEC.
Thanks for the support, I’d recommend fertilizing for p and k per the soil test, and around 100lbs per acre of nitrogen. Good luck with the plots!
So Wes, I did not inoculate my cow peas and I used 14- 4-14, they look great after 3 weeks, So the rule is, if you do not inoculate you need some N correct?
So the bacteria can and often is present in the soil….i always recommend inoculant on every field I plant, it’s cheap and it’s good insurance. Have you ever raised cow peas in that plot b4? I’d say as of right now the peas are using the 14 lbs of nitrogen that you put down. Thanks for watching
@@DIYfoodplotpro yes I've planted peas in this plot before but it's been mainly a chufa plot for the last few years
The bacteria could be in the soil or may not be….keep an eye on them, if they start to turn yellow, roll some urea to em!
Will a legume crop store Nitrogen to be used next year by non-legume, say brassica? Thank You Wes
That is a great question! Yes they will, clover is one of the best crops at this and can leave over 100LBS of nitrogen in the soil. Typically with soybeans we figure on around 40LBS leftover after the crop has matured. Thanks for watching
No you would have plant as soon as the Legume dies, to make use of the Nitrogen before it leaches out of the soil.
@@DIYfoodplotpro It leaches fast Wess usually down by 1/2 in 6 months, so it's best to directly follow, with a brassica or grain crop.
Some would leach out but also some would become immobile as the plants are breaking down….and would be slowly releasing the nitrogen. Where I have soybeans the years prior I always cut my rate on the nitrogen for the following year, when planting corn, usually 30-50LBS per acre…not much but definitely some , as I said soybeans don’t have large amounts available typically 40lBS
@@DIYfoodplotpro Cowpeas or sun hemp can add upto 400 pounds of Nitrogen per acre, so if they do well no Nitrogen is needed.
we buy from a farm supply.
Thanks dude, awesome knowledge You're sharing. Appreciate it very much! But it's called soil, like soooiiiil. Too funny, you southerners. Won't hold it against you, no worries, anyways, thanks for the education.😊
Thank you Matthew!! Haha you’re not the first that has wanted to watch my videos in closed captioning. Haha. Thanks for watching and good luck with the plots