One of many reasons why I would hate a unit in the attic. Here in my part of the country, midwest, units are not installed in the attic. Main floor or basement mostly.
Looked like they put glue on the coupling and not on the pipe. The problem is the guy that glued the pipe in the attic glued the pipe in the wall as well.
With WATER in a attic.. the smartest thing you did was cut the whole thing out and replace with new. When you found that second bad fitting it became a no brainer, let me replace the whole thing or get me out of here.. Goog Job as always :)
Having the air handler in the attic is the problem. I'm glad mine is in a closet. It might get the carpet wet if it leaks. I don't have any glue on my pvc.
That is definitely a situation where I would rebuild that drain from that 90 back to the coil and add straps to support it to keep pressure of the fittings.
Those are the calls that make you feel bad as a business owner yet you get to make some money from it. I wouldn’t have done anything differently once you found that second joint with water. Take all risk out of it.
Ted....I do agree with you about running a new drain all the way back but I am wondering why you do not a union at the evaporator coil? I put them in to clean the coil pan drain and to vacuum from that end if I have a bad clog. I would like to hear your reasoning on this. Thank you for another great video.
So, I think the drain line comes out of the compressor unit, why is it insulated? Will it be running in the winter time? If there is a heat exchanger perhaps???
Why didn't you use primer on the joint you glued? Did you use some type of all-in-one? Otherwise, I understand that primer is required to chemically bond the glue and pipe. Thoughts?
Ted, would it be possible to get a 20ft stick of 3/4 pvc from your supply house? It would minimize the amount of joints (hopefully spanning from the 90 that goes down the wall to the unit.)
That elbow probably also has a lot of stress on it being one pipe is bent up at 30 deg or more. And being in the attic probably has a lot of thermal stress on it too.
That Oatey One Step is also my favorite brand of glue for PVC flue and drain lines. Basically anything not under pressure. For water lines, I'd use purple primer and glue, code here doesn't allow one step, but hardly any PVC around here for cold water lines, sometimes it's in houses that are on a well system, but it's rare I come across PVC on pressurized water lines.
I think the light blue is rain or shine and the dark blue is the "lava" fast style. Wondering if they glued but didnt push together fast enough and it just did not truly weld properly
Clearly the drain pipe work needs to slope to allow the water to drain but surely it should be clipped/supported to avoid the strain on the connectors.
I'm gonna say the original installer was lazy/cheap and just "wiped" glue on the outside of all the joints to make it look like they were glued! I've seen this before cheap companies or lazy workers or both! Cut costs at any expense! By the way, you said there was glue inside that joint, but from what I could see, there wasn't any and I watche'd it 3 times to be sure!
Some people don't know that crap happens. And sometimes people cause the crap that happens and want to place the blame eleswhere. I get the covering of your bases. Do you have camera glasses?
The people that dry the house can cause big problems. I found 4 of the dryer's running inside a 2 level home, inside the home the temperature was 85 degrees. House was 3400 sq ft with zoning and a 5 ton AC with gas heat. It was Aug of 2021 The AC should have not been running the contractor that was trying to dry out house had big space heaters running and 5 dehumidifiers. But he caused a rain storm inside the entire duct system. They told me that the AC was just cut on just 3 days ago. Problem was the the doors to the furnace were taken off in the attic causing draft the inside of attic cause all the ducts to pull 110 degrees from the heaters running. I pulled off to ducts and showed the home owner black thick mold. Told him It would cost $80,000.00 to put in new furnace and duct. Just to get out of that nightmare. No charge free Estimate. I wish I could get back to service and sales. This business can make you old to soon. Make all you can now. Money goes fast when you stop working.
very likely, no cleaner/primer and just a small whiff if glue (on repair/unclogging). without cleaner(dyed primer for inspection purposes) lol. it will 95%+ not soften the pipe surfaces enough for them to bond together.
Original contractor should have secured the condensate line as per code, then stress would not have caused that last joint to fail. New construction inspector also failed to catch that the lines where un-secured.
Nobody's gonna catch that when they are changing a coil. Realistically Not much you can really do to prevent that from happening. Just a shitty situation for everyone
So did the homeowner file a claim with his insurance to have the companies pay for the water damages and replace, paint, the sheetrock? When gluing pvc I prime n glue it, hold the socket s together for about a minute or two to let glue dry. It will pull apart by itself. To me looks like the original company did glue 90. But 2nd company should've done a more thorough analysis on the drain and check for water leaks, IMO. THEY can be expensive and trouble. Glad ya got that straight for the homeowner.
35yrs of gluing pvc together for golf course irrigation....joints cannot just fall apart if glued and PRIMERED properly. yes primer... Also when it was first installed...likely moving the pipe around before it sets would cause a bad joint. "glue" is a bad term...you are solvent welding. Not just an irrigation guy...HVAC and plumber.. journeyman.
Normally love your videos and your approach was good in this one, but there is a ZERO percent chance i would reuse a piece of pvc that caused that much damage, save yourself the chance of disaster and just recut that 90 and replace it, even if its only for a couple of days. It would only cost you a couple bucks and 2 extra minutes. PVC cement literally melts the pvc together and if it comes apart it is no longer a reliable, reusable plastic.
One of many reasons why I would hate a unit in the attic. Here in my part of the country, midwest, units are not installed in the attic. Main floor or basement mostly.
Your honest and unbiased approach in dealing with this type of situation makes you stand out in the hvac business.
Looked like they put glue on the coupling and not on the pipe.
The problem is the guy that glued the pipe in the attic glued the pipe in the wall as well.
Detective Cook solves another cold case, after examining the three PVC colored glues. Very nice case of deductive logic in action. 😎
Loved the investigation uncle ted.
With WATER in a attic.. the smartest thing you did was cut the whole thing out and replace with new. When you found that second bad fitting it became a no brainer, let me replace the whole thing or get me out of here.. Goog Job as always :)
And this would be a perfect example why you shouldn’t use pressure to clear a drain line!
Good job on your persistence and being thorough.
Having the air handler in the attic is the problem. I'm glad mine is in a closet. It might get the carpet wet if it leaks. I don't have any glue on my pvc.
That is definitely a situation where I would rebuild that drain from that 90 back to the coil and add straps to support it to keep pressure of the fittings.
Those are the calls that make you feel bad as a business owner yet you get to make some money from it. I wouldn’t have done anything differently once you found that second joint with water. Take all risk out of it.
Ted....I do agree with you about running a new drain all the way back but I am wondering why you do not a union at the evaporator coil? I put them in to clean the coil pan drain and to vacuum from that end if I have a bad clog. I would like to hear your reasoning on this. Thank you for another great video.
So, I think the drain line comes out of the compressor unit, why is it insulated? Will it be running in the winter time? If there is a heat exchanger perhaps???
Why didn't you use primer on the joint you glued? Did you use some type of all-in-one? Otherwise, I understand that primer is required to chemically bond the glue and pipe. Thoughts?
What was the brand of glue you were using?
Where I'm from.Our inspector's won't even let PVC pass.With out seeing Purple primer. On glued PVC. No Way ...
Nice work Ted. Good decision on the repipe.
Kilz will cover the water damage. Then top coat with a good quality flat latex. Repipe was the best solution to prevent further damage.
Ted, would it be possible to get a 20ft stick of 3/4 pvc from your supply house? It would minimize the amount of joints (hopefully spanning from the 90 that goes down the wall to the unit.)
why did you let the glued joint slide out ~1/8" after gluing? @11min 15 sec
Mr .T Would you ever us the poly pipe to not have but 1 joint.
That elbow probably also has a lot of stress on it being one pipe is bent up at 30 deg or more. And being in the attic probably has a lot of thermal stress on it too.
I agree with you, all that drain needs to be replaced and done right.
Good job on flipping the repipe. Water on the coupling could’ve been condensation due to lack of armaflex causing dew point to be reached
Light glue and no primer? got to do both for the joint to make a good connectin. Doing it the right way is hard. good job. NCISTed
That Oatey One Step is also my favorite brand of glue for PVC flue and drain lines. Basically anything not under pressure. For water lines, I'd use purple primer and glue, code here doesn't allow one step, but hardly any PVC around here for cold water lines, sometimes it's in houses that are on a well system, but it's rare I come across PVC on pressurized water lines.
I think the light blue is rain or shine and the dark blue is the "lava" fast style.
Wondering if they glued but didnt push together fast enough and it just did not truly weld properly
why dont you like using unions?
Clearly the drain pipe work needs to slope to allow the water to drain but surely it should be clipped/supported to avoid the strain on the connectors.
As soon as you repair it, it’s yours! Good move to replace the entire line.
Nice Detective work Ted 👍 Au
The second I saw the unwrapped suction line at the coil, I knew anything else they touched was going to be a disaster. Did you insulate that?
That original glue job looks like it was done in haste.
Great catch Ted
Nice find & film the final results so tech's can see how it's done right ... Thx
The lack of primer is the main problem!
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. I'm looking for to watch part 2
You are doing the right thing by replacing all the pipe. It’s the safest option to do.
Ted, a completely new PVC pipe is the best solution.
Also, the wrong kind of flexes in that attic, gotta love new construction
Happened to me in my own house . Forget to glued elbow fron bathroom sink on a 2- nd floor. No glue at all. Survived 10 years. My own doing.
I'm gonna say the original installer was lazy/cheap and just "wiped" glue on the outside of all the joints to make it look like they were glued! I've seen this before cheap companies or lazy workers or both! Cut costs at any expense! By the way, you said there was glue inside that joint, but from what I could see, there wasn't any and I watche'd it 3 times to be sure!
Usually PVC fittings go together pretty tight without Glue.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle might have written that tale. Interesting., and unfortunate, as you say. It's not as if there was no glue used.
Some people don't know that crap happens. And sometimes people cause the crap that happens and want to place the blame eleswhere. I get the covering of your bases. Do you have camera glasses?
Ted I agree with you make it new 👌
I CAN'T WAIT FOR PART 2
Didn’t look like there was any sufficient amount of either primer (clear?) or glue was used as evidenced in the 90 which Ted repaired
There is no float safety switch on the coil it would absolutely have installed one if I touched that drain and a pan switch as well.
The people that dry the house can cause big problems. I found 4 of the dryer's running inside a 2 level home, inside the home the temperature was 85 degrees. House was 3400 sq ft with zoning and a 5 ton AC with gas heat. It was Aug of 2021 The AC should have not been running the contractor that was trying to dry out house had big space heaters running and 5 dehumidifiers. But he caused a rain storm inside the entire duct system. They told me that the AC was just cut on just 3 days ago. Problem was the the doors to the furnace were taken off in the attic causing draft the inside of attic cause all the ducts to pull 110 degrees from the heaters running. I pulled off to ducts and showed the home owner black thick mold. Told him It would cost $80,000.00 to put in new furnace and duct. Just to get out of that nightmare. No charge free Estimate. I wish I could get back to service and sales. This business can make you old to soon. Make all you can now. Money goes fast when you stop working.
very likely, no cleaner/primer and just a small whiff if glue (on repair/unclogging). without cleaner(dyed primer for inspection purposes) lol. it will 95%+ not soften the pipe surfaces enough for them to bond together.
That lighter blue glue looks like pipe dope 😅
Original contractor should have secured the condensate line as per code, then stress would not have caused that last joint to fail.
New construction inspector also failed to catch that the lines where un-secured.
Stay away from the blue "hot" glue. It sets brittle and doesn't hold up well at all. Purple primer and glue = plastic weld for the win.
Good idea. Take it out and redo it!!
Nobody's gonna catch that when they are changing a coil. Realistically Not much you can really do to prevent that from happening. Just a shitty situation for everyone
I could be wrong but I can't see that much water damage unless the pipe was plugged
So did the homeowner file a claim with his insurance to have the companies pay for the water damages and replace, paint, the sheetrock? When gluing pvc I prime n glue it, hold the socket s together for about a minute or two to let glue dry. It will pull apart by itself. To me looks like the original company did glue 90. But 2nd company should've done a more thorough analysis on the drain and check for water leaks, IMO. THEY can be expensive and trouble. Glad ya got that straight for the homeowner.
Hard working guy
35yrs of gluing pvc together for golf course irrigation....joints cannot just fall apart if glued and PRIMERED properly. yes primer... Also when it was first installed...likely moving the pipe around before it sets would cause a bad joint. "glue" is a bad term...you are solvent welding. Not just an irrigation guy...HVAC and plumber.. journeyman.
Nobody ever holds the pipe inside the fitting long enough. Watch it push right out
I had such bad luck with leaking drains that when I replaced my heat and air all in the attic I went with a outside package unit........no more leaks
Amazing catch😊😊
that trap will never hold water at that pitch
Wanting to find a escape goat not right
WOW 😊 I'm the First to Comment. I wish I Can be Calm and talk like Him. Very patient man👍
takes one rooky mistake to mess things up and leave someone to deal and fix it later.
How does one not notice that before the water damage gets that bad
Sup mr ted!
👍🏻👍🏻
Normally love your videos and your approach was good in this one, but there is a ZERO percent chance i would reuse a piece of pvc that caused that much damage, save yourself the chance of disaster and just recut that 90 and replace it, even if its only for a couple of days. It would only cost you a couple bucks and 2 extra minutes. PVC cement literally melts the pvc together and if it comes apart it is no longer a reliable, reusable plastic.
Entire drain system cut out and replaced a few days later.
9 years is a long time. Looks to Me like it would have leaked before now.
Helicopter 🚁
First ? 🤷🏻♂️