Nice device, but you should not connect hot and cold radiators with steel screws. Heat will goes through it and efficiency will decrease. It is a common mistake:)
Since I'm seeing this after 5 years. I'm give some context. Most of the point of heat in a dehumidifier is to expand the air, which makes the existing vapor spread out. Which allows the air to absorb additional moisture from surrounding air. (Like a vacuum for moisture.) Then when it hits the cold, it then loses that extra space. And so the water is pushed back out of the air. Along with additional moisture it might have at ambient temperatures. I don't think those screws have much of an effect on efficiency. Plenty it's already wrong with it. IE using peltiers to begin with... there should be some space between the hot and cold radiators, which you can't do with peltiers. And they already use a lot of power, for what they do. (I'd argue that most home dehumidifiers are made too compact. But that's me nitpicking.) This though, is good for learning how things work. And a fun project you can do on your own... without learning how to hook up condensors.
@@platinumsky845 "A dehumidifier works by drawing warm air currents into its coils via a fan. The warm air contracts as it's fed through the refrigerated coils of the machine, and condensation is left inside the dehumidifier." straight from Google, that is exactly how they work lol.
The additional amount of thermal paste is to compensate for the lack of pressure being placed on both heat sinks, where in a computer, the heatsink mount puts pressure on the CPU and heatsink, spreading out the thermal paste. EDIT: Just watched the entire video, I though he put two pea sized blobs, not a freaking giant blob. That is too much thermal paste.
Your fan is blowing the air in the wrong direction, from the hot side to the cold side, making it very inefficient. You want the air to first pass the cool side, where the temperature drop will condense the water, and then the hot side, where the cooled air helps lowering the temperature, increasing efficiency. For maximum efficiency you'd want all the air passing both heatsinks (with perhaps extra ambient air passing only the hot heatsink). With the air blowing from hot to cold side, that would result in no condensation at all, because the air would be heated for example from 20°C to 60°C and then cooled to 40°C. With the air blowing in the other direction, it would first be cooled from 20°C to 0°C, causing condensation, then heated to 40°C at the hot side.
That's the major downside of Intel stock cooler. The fan blows air into the heatsink instead of blowing it out onto the surroundings. And also it has small surface contact. So it doesn't transfer the heat very well. And he's putting way too much thermal paste in it as well. You could try to grab one of those heat pipe based cooler like deepcool ice edge 200M ( the only cooler I know that heat pipe based ) for the hot side so that it'll has less interference with the cold side...
@@atalakeanumonarshi129 You know you can just turn the fan around, right? I've done this on a few personal PC builds and it works as well if not better than the standard arrangement.
This is a great project. Just for future reference, the Pelter has a lot of little metal blocks of PNP & NPN material in a checked pattern that has gaps between the blocks. They are joined in series with copper tracks and attached to the two ceramic plates on each side. The hot ceramic plate side needs to be completely covered by the heat sink or a heat spreader (with added Thermal transfer compound), then attached to the heat sink, so no ceramic area is uncovered, or you will burn out the Pelter as the exposed blocks overheat and the whole (Thermal electric Cooler(TEC) will stop working.
Pro tip, if you have an old desktop computer (A laptop might work too) that you don't ever use and you are alright taking apart you can take the heat sync for the hotend off of the old cpu and if you have that really cheap gpu you can use that as the other or any small heat sync for the cold end
i want to make a refrigerator using peltier, do you have an idea how to design the case so it have a compartment to collect all the condensation inside ? as you know damp stryrofoam Will smell bad overtime
Hello !! What could you suggest me to recover humidity from a little greenhouse in condition of 35 to 45 degree (celsius) and a humidity (hygrometry) about 95 to 99 % ? Thank you for your answer !!
Thanks for the vedio ... can you Advise to make large dehumidifier for the agricultural. because day by day in our village farmers are facing Water shortage due low rine.....if it is simple concept we can also to teach them to grow agricultural.... #share the knowledge# Solar power+dehumidifier= water
You can use a freezer powerd with solar to cool water down, pump this water with an electric water pump through cooperpipes (outside of the freezer in a shady place) and back in the freezer. Through this circulation, colling water down, pump it through an cooperpipe outside of the freezer, back into the freezer and if you manage to finde the perfect pumping speed and freezer temperature, you can create water drops on the surface of the cooperpipes, collect them and you have drinkable water.
There are thousands of dehumidifiers on the market. To condense more water using less electricity you would use a heat pump dehumidifier not a thermometric dehumidifier. But even with heat pumps you will still needs A LOT OF ELECTRICITY and it will not work in COLD places.
But what do I do with the condensation? Dry cabinets somehow magically make the water disappear. Do they collect it and heat it up again? I also wonder whether it is possible to channel that water towards the top heat sink, obviously not in this configuration, but is it worth it?
Awesome video Simon Sörensen......Can you please tell me clearly what were the three things you have attached after 'SWITCH' . And what was the green light at the last...
what is the link to buy that specific type of large heatsink you attach the fan to? The heat sink you provided a link for will not allow airflow through it to the panel and sink below it
Additionally, I have found circular heat sinks, but none with the round copper plate attached, is that something you purchased separately and attached? Or were you able to buy one with it already on there? Thanks!
Some of those circular CPU heat sinks have a copper middle and some of them are just aluminum. depends on which one you get, when it was made, and what company you buy it from. I can't tell you which companies sell which. The ones with the copper slug in the middle, cool a little better but not by much. most companies just make them completely aluminum to cut down cost but if you find one that has the copper slug in the middle you should spend a little more to get it if you care about performance. The best thing you can get are CPU heat sinks with heat pipes because the copper heat pipes spread out the heat to the fins more evenly and quicker. If you want to spend more money and/or are doing this for a permanent project, you can get AIO units with are cheap and easy water cooling devises which work a little better than the air cooling setups and are generally easy to install.
I have tried building this one. It produces some moisture over time, and after 30 minutes, the first drop falls off. After that, it leaves about 5-7 drops of water every hour. (tested at 25°C/69% humidity) If I turne it on in a room below 21°C, the cold side freezes to ice, and nothing more happens. What am I doing wrong?
there are a few flaws in the project: 1: the peltier is not coller properly, the round cooler surface does not cover the complete square surface of the peltier, making the peltier run warmer and become less efficient. so make sure the cooler covers the complete surface of the warm side of the peltier. his can be solved by attaching an alluminum or copper plate between peltier and the round cooler. 1.1: use a bigger heatsink on the hot side, the more heat you are able to get rid of the more effiient your peltier cooling. so use a CPU heatsink with at least 95 watts of cooling rating. 2: even if you cover the complete surface of the peltier, the peltier may actually be to cool for water condensation, instead the water drops may freeze. one possible solution would be to increase the surface area of the cool side or attach a small fan, to keep the cool side from freezing but maintaining a minimal temp. to allow condensation p.s. make sure you don't make the cool side to big either, in that case you may not achieve the condensation temperature. 3: allign the cooling alluminium finns in vertical position. gravity is going to help you to form bigger drops, which are going to run down faster and allow more surface to exposed to the cool side. (accumulation of water drops works more or less as an insulator and keeps the moisture from condesation on the cooler). 4: use a power supply for the Peltier., batteries are sometimes to wea give enough current in order to power the system properly, and if the do, they will be dry after 10-30 minutes and need to recharged. thefore not the best solution if you want to power the system for more than 1h. use a normal 12V 6A power brick that should cover the most common peltiert types (such as 12706) and their required cooling. 5: peltiers are ineffizient AF, it's cool as a learning project or to make your own small DIY fridge etc. but they are really ineffcient. and if you use cheap peltier elements then they are even worse. but for learning they are awesome! 6: humidity. if the humidity in your room is low but temperatures are high, then your little small peltier dehumidifier will not work. its because the relative water content in the air is low. instead if the temp. in the room is low and the humidity is high then you are able to condensate a lot of water. but in generall, the higher the moisture in the room the better works the dehumidifier, but also the higher the risk for getting mould ;-) 7: thermal grease: thermal grease is primary made to get warm, not cold. it becomes more rigid when it cold and is less conductive. looking for special thermal grease which supports up to -20°C is one way to make it more efficient. the hot side is not an issue at all for the grease hope it's going to support you in your future projects!
It's not pulling water from the air it's get cold it's just like a mini refrigerator . When you have them running it gets water vapor inside. Getting cold makes condensation that does not pull condensation out of the air
I looked into it a little farther yesterday and determined that the cost to build a dehumidifier using this technology would be at least 10 times the cost of a consumer level dehumidifier with the same performance. That aligns well with the inefficiency you mentioned. Thanks for posting.
@@RcLifeOn hello, i was wondering if you came up with a more efficent model i would like to run off a solar pannel and only need to collect approx 100ml 1/4 a pint in 24 hours
@@Marc9889 hello, i was wondering if you came up with a more efficent model i would like to run off a solar pannel and only need to collect approx 100ml 1/4 a pint in 24 hours
short, unfortunatelly. the battery he is using has a capacity of 11,1V*2,2Ah=34Wh, the peltier consumes between 40-60w per hour, thefore the battery is going to last between 20-45min use a 12V 6A power brick instead. cheaper than a battery and way easier to take care of. plus you can run it for muliple hours without worring about the current state of the battery
I thing the result would be better if the air pass before the cold side of heatsink, and after on hot one. Your Fan push the air on the hot side and after on the cold side. The air lose Humidity when it's temperature decrease, beause it's capacity to tolerate humidity depends on the temperature. Higher is the temperature, more humidity the air can tolerate. If you warm up the air , and next you cool it(bringin it to almost the same starting temperature), you make it capable to tollerate more humidity and next to tollerate the same humidity that it tollerated at the start of the process. Instead if you cool the air and next worm up it, when the temperature goes under the Environment temperature, it lose a lot of humidity, next when it warm up , it has the same temperature of Environment but a lot less of Humidity
It's not that it doesn't work at all how you made it in the video, but the idea of a dehumidifier is (1) cooling air under its dewpoint, (2) discharge the water and (3) heat the same air with the heat you detracted while cooling, so that the warm dry air can absorb more water after leaving the humidifier.
Is there a heatsink on the hot side? A peltier cooler will not work correctly without a heat sink. By the law of conservation of energy, you cannot remove heat without moving it somewhere, in other words, you cannot get one side to become cold without pulling enough of the heat away.
Hi, beautiful project! One question... Can you please confirm if the thermal trease you used in your project also allows to permanently fix the heat sink to the peltier? because I tried with a normal thermal grease that does not fix the peltier to the heat sink so it goes down everytime. I would like to have the heat sink permanently fixed to the peltier (the cold side), so I can move it without any problems. Thanks for all.
the higher the humidity the more effective the condensation, the more water you are able to get from the air. but this construction has a few flaws. 1. Battery powered, the LiPo is expensive and difficult to handle 2. the peltier is very inefficient when it comes to cooling but is awesome when you don't need massive cooling power, as well when you lack space 3. use a simple 12V 75W AC adapter to power this thing;-), the most common peltier unit (12706) uses 6amps of power better buy a normal dehumidifier at the local hardware store or even better a transportable air conditioner. i use a suntec in my apartment when the moistiness is breaking the 85% mark and it really sucks the water out from the air.
What were the other items, and where does the water drop to? I'm guessing 12v, but at what amps were you running the 1205tec? Not much in the way of explaining mate. Maybe you'll do better next time. If I just wanted to see someone attach a tech between to heat sinks, I've done that 100s of times. Wanted to see how you built the rest, and you were just silent thru it all...
Heat is moved from the cold side to the hot side, so the difference is zero, if it was 100% efficient, which is impossible. In reality, electrical resistance adds additional waste heat, but that is basically negligible.
You can look at it two ways, it collects water from the air or it removes water from the air. Basically it could be a cool device in certain situations where you need to find water, or if you wish to remove water in order to "dry out" the air.
What are you dehumidifying? A shoe box? I know that you have to keep coming up with ideas but this is an absolutely useless device. Add a second fan to the cool side and enclose it to make a portable cooler and you've got something somewhat useful.
Heck yeah! Just what I needed to see I need to build a dehumidifier to keep my filaments dry! Thanks again!
Nice device, but you should not connect hot and cold radiators with steel screws. Heat will goes through it and efficiency will decrease. It is a common mistake:)
Did you know that steel has a very low thermal conductivity?
Since I'm seeing this after 5 years. I'm give some context.
Most of the point of heat in a dehumidifier is to expand the air, which makes the existing vapor spread out. Which allows the air to absorb additional moisture from surrounding air. (Like a vacuum for moisture.)
Then when it hits the cold, it then loses that extra space. And so the water is pushed back out of the air. Along with additional moisture it might have at ambient temperatures.
I don't think those screws have much of an effect on efficiency. Plenty it's already wrong with it. IE using peltiers to begin with... there should be some space between the hot and cold radiators, which you can't do with peltiers. And they already use a lot of power, for what they do.
(I'd argue that most home dehumidifiers are made too compact. But that's me nitpicking.)
This though, is good for learning how things work. And a fun project you can do on your own... without learning how to hook up condensors.
@@josholin31 that's... Not how dehumidifiers work...
@@platinumsky845 I checked what I typed. Are you misunderstanding it?
@@platinumsky845 "A dehumidifier works by drawing warm air currents into its coils via a fan. The warm air contracts as it's fed through the refrigerated coils of the machine, and condensation is left inside the dehumidifier." straight from Google, that is exactly how they work lol.
way too much thermal paste
I know right
he should watch linustechtips
linus shows the correct way to use thermal paste
well i like his content (apart from the ads)
40% of the video runtime is sponsor ads that have nothing to do with the video
The additional amount of thermal paste is to compensate for the lack of pressure being placed on both heat sinks, where in a computer, the heatsink mount puts pressure on the CPU and heatsink, spreading out the thermal paste.
EDIT: Just watched the entire video, I though he put two pea sized blobs, not a freaking giant blob. That is too much thermal paste.
Google
looks really good, could you provide some details on how much water it removes in a hour and how much space its ideal for, and total power consumption
Your fan is blowing the air in the wrong direction, from the hot side to the cold side, making it very inefficient. You want the air to first pass the cool side, where the temperature drop will condense the water, and then the hot side, where the cooled air helps lowering the temperature, increasing efficiency. For maximum efficiency you'd want all the air passing both heatsinks (with perhaps extra ambient air passing only the hot heatsink). With the air blowing from hot to cold side, that would result in no condensation at all, because the air would be heated for example from 20°C to 60°C and then cooled to 40°C. With the air blowing in the other direction, it would first be cooled from 20°C to 0°C, causing condensation, then heated to 40°C at the hot side.
That's the major downside of Intel stock cooler. The fan blows air into the heatsink instead of blowing it out onto the surroundings. And also it has small surface contact. So it doesn't transfer the heat very well. And he's putting way too much thermal paste in it as well. You could try to grab one of those heat pipe based cooler like deepcool ice edge 200M ( the only cooler I know that heat pipe based ) for the hot side so that it'll has less interference with the cold side...
@@atalakeanumonarshi129 You know you can just turn the fan around, right? I've done this on a few personal PC builds and it works as well if not better than the standard arrangement.
This is a great project. Just for future reference, the Pelter has a lot of little metal blocks of PNP & NPN material in a checked pattern that has gaps between the blocks. They are joined in series with copper tracks and attached to the two ceramic plates on each side. The hot ceramic plate side needs to be completely covered by the heat sink or a heat spreader (with added Thermal transfer compound), then attached to the heat sink, so no ceramic area is uncovered, or you will burn out the Pelter as the exposed blocks overheat and the whole (Thermal electric Cooler(TEC) will stop working.
Pro tip, if you have an old desktop computer (A laptop might work too) that you don't ever use and you are alright taking apart you can take the heat sync for the hotend off of the old cpu and if you have that really cheap gpu you can use that as the other or any small heat sync for the cold end
Very cool vid! Dig the music too. Nicely done :)
I love your videos!!!!!!!
i want to make a refrigerator using peltier, do you have an idea how to design the case so it have a compartment to collect all the condensation inside ? as you know damp stryrofoam Will smell bad overtime
thx now i know how it work so now I can make one at home
Hello !! What could you suggest me to recover humidity from a little greenhouse in condition of 35 to 45 degree (celsius) and a humidity (hygrometry) about 95 to 99 % ? Thank you for your answer !!
Lowers humidity while raising room temperature. Any possible way to make an AC with many peltier chips (that takes hot air out of the room?
peltiers are WAY too inefficient to be used as an air conditioning device.
Thanks for the vedio ...
can you Advise to make large dehumidifier for the agricultural. because day by day in our village farmers are facing Water shortage due low rine.....if it is simple concept we can also to teach them to grow agricultural....
#share the knowledge#
Solar power+dehumidifier= water
You can use a freezer powerd with solar to cool water down, pump this water with an electric water pump through cooperpipes (outside of the freezer in a shady place) and back in the freezer. Through this circulation, colling water down, pump it through an cooperpipe outside of the freezer, back into the freezer and if you manage to finde the perfect pumping speed and freezer temperature, you can create water drops on the surface of the cooperpipes, collect them and you have drinkable water.
There are thousands of dehumidifiers on the market. To condense more water using less electricity you would use a heat pump dehumidifier not a thermometric dehumidifier. But even with heat pumps you will still needs A LOT OF ELECTRICITY and it will not work in COLD places.
But what do I do with the condensation?
Dry cabinets somehow magically make the water disappear. Do they collect it and heat it up again?
I also wonder whether it is possible to channel that water towards the top heat sink, obviously not in this configuration, but is it worth it?
What an cool project ! You could improve it as well if you want to.
How? How do you maximise the water pull?
@@japreet_kah build 50 of them :)
Hey man, this can also work as a water collector from the atmosphere.
Thats wat it is 😂🤣
You are not the only one who has thought of that. When you live in the desert you start getting creative
you can add a drip pan for long term use and just empty it out every once in a while.
Or install a drainage tube that leads to a wasteway. No need to remove and service the drip pan that way.
very instructive ... well done!
Awesome video Simon Sörensen......Can you please tell me clearly what were the three things you have attached after 'SWITCH' . And what was the green light at the last...
Hey thanks! I connected the LED lights, peltier chip and the electric fan.
Nice idea, but aren't Peltier units rather inefficient?
I guess a better option would be a heat-pump?
Like my Facebook page for more awesome stuff: facebook.com/rclifeon/?fref=ts
what is the link to buy that specific type of large heatsink you attach the fan to? The heat sink you provided a link for will not allow airflow through it to the panel and sink below it
Additionally, I have found circular heat sinks, but none with the round copper plate attached, is that something you purchased separately and attached? Or were you able to buy one with it already on there? Thanks!
Some of those circular CPU heat sinks have a copper middle and some of them are just aluminum. depends on which one you get, when it was made, and what company you buy it from. I can't tell you which companies sell which. The ones with the copper slug in the middle, cool a little better but not by much. most companies just make them completely aluminum to cut down cost but if you find one that has the copper slug in the middle you should spend a little more to get it if you care about performance. The best thing you can get are CPU heat sinks with heat pipes because the copper heat pipes spread out the heat to the fins more evenly and quicker. If you want to spend more money and/or are doing this for a permanent project, you can get AIO units with are cheap and easy water cooling devises which work a little better than the air cooling setups and are generally easy to install.
RCLifeOn donkeys
RCLifeOn is my favourite video
Wow! That was cool! Thanks!
I have tried building this one.
It produces some moisture over time, and after 30 minutes, the first drop falls off. After that, it leaves about 5-7 drops of water every hour. (tested at 25°C/69% humidity)
If I turne it on in a room below 21°C, the cold side freezes to ice, and nothing more happens.
What am I doing wrong?
there are a few flaws in the project:
1: the peltier is not coller properly, the round cooler surface does not cover the complete square surface of the peltier, making the peltier run warmer and become less efficient. so make sure the cooler covers the complete surface of the warm side of the peltier. his can be solved by attaching an alluminum or copper plate between peltier and the round cooler.
1.1: use a bigger heatsink on the hot side, the more heat you are able to get rid of the more effiient your peltier cooling. so use a CPU heatsink with at least 95 watts of cooling rating.
2: even if you cover the complete surface of the peltier, the peltier may actually be to cool for water condensation, instead the water drops may freeze. one possible solution would be to increase the surface area of the cool side or attach a small fan, to keep the cool side from freezing but maintaining a minimal temp. to allow condensation
p.s. make sure you don't make the cool side to big either, in that case you may not achieve the condensation temperature.
3: allign the cooling alluminium finns in vertical position. gravity is going to help you to form bigger drops, which are going to run down faster and allow more surface to exposed to the cool side. (accumulation of water drops works more or less as an insulator and keeps the moisture from condesation on the cooler).
4: use a power supply for the Peltier., batteries are sometimes to wea give enough current in order to power the system properly, and if the do, they will be dry after 10-30 minutes and need to recharged. thefore not the best solution if you want to power the system for more than 1h. use a normal 12V 6A power brick that should cover the most common peltiert types (such as 12706) and their required cooling.
5: peltiers are ineffizient AF, it's cool as a learning project or to make your own small DIY fridge etc. but they are really ineffcient. and if you use cheap peltier elements then they are even worse. but for learning they are awesome!
6: humidity. if the humidity in your room is low but temperatures are high, then your little small peltier dehumidifier will not work. its because the relative water content in the air is low.
instead if the temp. in the room is low and the humidity is high then you are able to condensate a lot of water.
but in generall, the higher the moisture in the room the better works the dehumidifier, but also the higher the risk for getting mould ;-)
7: thermal grease: thermal grease is primary made to get warm, not cold. it becomes more rigid when it cold and is less conductive. looking for special thermal grease which supports up to -20°C is one way to make it more efficient.
the hot side is not an issue at all for the grease
hope it's going to support you in your future projects!
Mads Bekker this is depends upon the RH value.....
you can make 10 of them use them as one unit and that will be a great dehumidifier .
Amazing dude
Hello, what are the battery and the computer fan Volts and amps ?
whats side of peltier get cold in your project ?
Nice video
Thanks for commenting :)
please for the sake of all parts... Less thermal paste!!
1/5th or even 1/10th of what he used would be better tbh.....
i do really need something like this
good work. People please can i adapt this to extract and condense water water out of food in a closed airtight container?
what the use of heat sinks and paste and what are the alternatives
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍your amazing
It's not pulling water from the air it's get cold it's just like a mini refrigerator . When you have them running it gets water vapor inside. Getting cold makes condensation that does not pull condensation out of the air
Great! And simple!
Thanks for watching!
Gonna sound stupid but this should work with two of the same sized heat syncs right? Like two of the computer ones (the big one in this video)
No it doesn't work
3:34 what is the name of this chip and what is the use of this ... anyone tell me please
I would be interested to know the volume of water collected in a specific amount of time. Have you collected any performance data?
Sorry, I have no data regarding performance. I scrapped the project due to the inefficiency.
I looked into it a little farther yesterday and determined that the cost to build a dehumidifier using this technology would be at least 10 times the cost of a consumer level dehumidifier with the same performance. That aligns well with the inefficiency you mentioned. Thanks for posting.
@@RcLifeOn hello, i was wondering if you came up with a more efficent model i would like to run off a solar pannel and only need to collect approx 100ml 1/4 a pint in 24 hours
@@Marc9889 hello, i was wondering if you came up with a more efficent model i would like to run off a solar pannel and only need to collect approx 100ml 1/4 a pint in 24 hours
May i know what battery that you used?
Great, now can you do a DYI project that will dry my cannabis flower slowly at 60 degrees and maintain 60% humidity? Say in a small wine cooler?
How long will this dehumidifier work for a 12v battery
short, unfortunatelly.
the battery he is using has a capacity of 11,1V*2,2Ah=34Wh, the peltier consumes between 40-60w per hour, thefore the battery is going to last between 20-45min
use a 12V 6A power brick instead. cheaper than a battery and way easier to take care of. plus you can run it for muliple hours without worring about the current state of the battery
Is the fan throwing air toward heat sink or outside?
Preferably outside. Otherwise, the hot air will hit the cold section, decreasing its efficiency.
Which side of the peltier is attached to the large heat sink(fan side)?
hot side, you want the hot side to be cooled as best as possible
I thing the result would be better if the air pass before the cold side of heatsink, and after on hot one. Your Fan push the air on the hot side and after on the cold side.
The air lose Humidity when it's temperature decrease, beause it's capacity to tolerate humidity depends on the temperature. Higher is the temperature, more humidity the air can tolerate.
If you warm up the air , and next you cool it(bringin it to almost the same starting temperature), you make it capable to tollerate more humidity and next to tollerate the same humidity that it tollerated at the start of the process.
Instead if you cool the air and next worm up it, when the temperature goes under the Environment temperature, it lose a lot of humidity, next when it warm up , it has the same temperature of Environment but a lot less of Humidity
Can you make a home air conditioner with this thermoelectric cooler? I'm living in the third floor and in summer it gets very hot in there :D
having some comments on what the heck you are doing would be of much help
Perfect for emergency clean water
It remains unclear to me where does collected water go.
Sorry about that! Place a piece of paper or plastic container underneath to collect the water.
how many links are broken. Can change the links?
It's not that it doesn't work at all how you made it in the video, but the idea of a dehumidifier is (1) cooling air under its dewpoint, (2) discharge the water and (3) heat the same air with the heat you detracted while cooling, so that the warm dry air can absorb more water after leaving the humidifier.
where is dehumidifier.. .....???????
dehumidifiying means taking out the humidity by condensing the air the water droplets that formed means its a dehumidifier
Which side of the chip goes to which heat sink?
Can you please tell current and voltage used to run this equipment thanks
12 volts?
my peltier is not work truly. its hot side is monstrous hot but cold side is not cold enough. do you have an idea for that??
Is there a heatsink on the hot side? A peltier cooler will not work correctly without a heat sink. By the law of conservation of energy, you cannot remove heat without moving it somewhere, in other words, you cannot get one side to become cold without pulling enough of the heat away.
can it make the entire area cool ?
It doesn't change the temperature, it only removes moisture from the air.
hey :) your peletier chip link is not working.
Hi, beautiful project! One question... Can you please confirm if the thermal trease you used in your project also allows to permanently fix the heat sink to the peltier? because I tried with a normal thermal grease that does not fix the peltier to the heat sink so it goes down everytime. I would like to have the heat sink permanently fixed to the peltier (the cold side), so I can move it without any problems.
Thanks for all.
There are heat sink compounds that also works as glue.
this is so amazing
Pretty cool man! But how well does it work? I live in an area and sometimes we can reach 90% humidity
Thanks dude! It will work fine, though you probably need a bigger one if you are gonna use it in big rooms.
the higher the humidity the more effective the condensation, the more water you are able to get from the air.
but this construction has a few flaws.
1. Battery powered, the LiPo is expensive and difficult to handle
2. the peltier is very inefficient when it comes to cooling but is awesome when you don't need massive cooling power, as well when you lack space
3. use a simple 12V 75W AC adapter to power this thing;-), the most common peltier unit (12706) uses 6amps of power
better buy a normal dehumidifier at the local hardware store or even better a transportable air conditioner.
i use a suntec in my apartment when the moistiness is breaking the 85% mark and it really sucks the water out from the air.
thanks for the video but you should show proof of concept, show us how much water it can make in a specific time
I.. will do dis!
hola buen vídeo, se podría usar en un camping para recolectar agua del aire o abría que hacer alguna modificación, espero tu respuesta, saludos
Ponerle paneles solares en lugar de la bateria
what sise is that heat sink
Ha pára mentesítőt akarsz építeni akkor a hideg oldalra is akkora hűtő borda kel mint a meleg oldalra csak vastagságban fele akkora
What were the other items, and where does the water drop to? I'm guessing 12v, but at what amps were you running the 1205tec? Not much in the way of explaining mate. Maybe you'll do better next time. If I just wanted to see someone attach a tech between to heat sinks, I've done that 100s of times. Wanted to see how you built the rest, and you were just silent thru it all...
what are the advantages of dehumidifying the ambient? why invest in a dehumidifier?
What is the temperature difference form hot to cool?
Heat is moved from the cold side to the hot side, so the difference is zero, if it was 100% efficient, which is impossible. In reality, electrical resistance adds additional waste heat, but that is basically negligible.
Is it better than old compressor cooling systems?
nope. peltiers have roughly half of the efficiency of compressor cooling
their benefits are: no moving parts and their small size
i love you
12v source but doesnt need a 12v battery?
I Will give you a link for 3d print will you accept???
Vart köper du foamboard?
Jag brukar köpa från detta ställe: www.epp-versand.de/
Dock är det depron och inte foamboard.
is it okay if i use the water droplets and filter it to use that for water harvesting?
I was going through the same thing on instructables
+Prashant Sharma Awesome, thanks for watching!
More explanation would be cool…
Best thermo conductive metal is silver. It is much more expensive.
now make a humidifier
Go to wood prix if you'd like to build it yourself.
The blue cab uns rews from thermal syringes
2:26
ffs, use a cutting mat.
DONT EVER PUT PELTIER ON ROUND HEAT SINK THEY WILL BROKE YOUR DEVICE
2 much paste heatsink insufficient module won't last long bad build.
peter allridge These modules are almost indestructable in that regard.
it's IP2X
dehumidfier decrease the humidity
too much thermal paste on the small heatsink
so these create water it is realy
You can look at it two ways, it collects water from the air or it removes water from the air. Basically it could be a cool device in certain situations where you need to find water, or if you wish to remove water in order to "dry out" the air.
really badly explained
Insolated it with paste
What are you dehumidifying? A shoe box? I know that you have to keep coming up with ideas but this is an absolutely useless device. Add a second fan to the cool side and enclose it to make a portable cooler and you've got something somewhat useful.
cold water bottle can dehumidified the air much than this
Cool and everything but please stop the "HOOOKH" thing.
+Maged EWilliam The "HOOOKH"?
the awesome sound effect you use to transition between takes :D
You don't like it? Alright, got it :)
Just a gimmick..
This idea sucks ,cold side dehumidifies while the hotter side acts as humidifier... So net effect is zero
All bull sheet
Really enjoy it. Let's check Avasva plans also
Yep you built something just for theory . Details matter. How many milli liters does this remove per day.
We dont build just for youtube views.
Just open a window ffs
Outdoor humidity is often too high. Optimal relative humidity is said to be between 45% and 55%.
under 30 dollars? LOL $19 bucks at Walmart LOL LOLOL what a waste of time.
why are you making sound effects with your mouth 0:40 and 4:20
Pointless. This is still open to the surrounding air. This will dehumidify nothing as built.