Mine was exactly as described here. Easily removed without disconnection of pipes or connectors, washed all areas, particularly wheel, shaft and return pin with ethanol both clean and dirty side. Reinserted and has been working perfectly for 9 months. Cars performance is fully restored and mpg much improved. cost zero, time 30 mins. E71 N57 2013.
@@pea-dub so on the BMW X6 I remove the plastic engine cover by pulling off. Eased off the air intake to make space , just pulls out of the filter and unscrews at the jubilee connector, careful of the mass airflow sensor on the intake , either unplug the connector or move carefully to one side. The EGR value has a pull off black plastic cap, nothing holding it in but is tight , eased off with a flat head screw driver. That exposes the value return mechanism, which can be cleaned up with egr cleaner or ethanol or similar. Two hex bolts hold the egr exhaust side in place , if you remove the bolts the whole valve will wiggle out of the exhaust with a bit of patience, I cleaned it like new with some egr spray. Can be cleaned in situ without and need to drain down coolant. No issues with the value since cleaning it up. Car was stalling and failing to start prior.
@@pea-dub good luck , if you do remove the air intake stick a rag in to block it. Sod’s law guarantees you’ll drop one of the hex bolts from the egr valve straight down the open intake.
Noticed a EGR control deviation fault in ISTA and popped the plastic cap off in situ, true enough the roller wheel was jamming in the actuation arm. Little clean with a scuff pad to remove the gunk off the wheel and arm till it was moving smoothly, lubed with some high temp lithium grease. Car drives great now, must have been bad for a while.
Now this is a proper instructional video! Great explanation of how the valve works, what can go wrong, and even how to easily detach the casing without damaging it to test the issue by yourself. Very informative, thanks!
I tried getting the plastic cover off and it got damaged. I now have a little Hole in the plastic thing, do i need to get a new one or does it work if i glue the piece back?
A very useful video! 2 questions (on N57): 1. I can see how mechanical stiction can cause the valve to remain open, but is this fault detectable via Ista? 2. Will this stiction effect be influenced by temperature of the valve? My BMW dealership is not detecting any error codes, but I am convinced the EGR valve has been failing to close fully, for ages. A thoroughly gummed up intake manifold is the result. I would guess that they only test for error codes in the workshop, where exhaust system temperatures will be lower than they are at operating speeds on the motorway. My car has a full, comprehensive BMW warranty, which should cover "wear and tear" but the dealer is refusing to put in a claim.
Same valve on all the 2.0 Diesel engines as well. Had good results with polishing the the contact surface on the arm with a small polishing pad on a dremmel. Even new out of the box they feel a bit sticky in my opinion. It may be a luck of the draw scenario as to getting a good one. I’m also thinking the spring tension may lessen over time.
Yeah the n47 has the same valve. I agree the polish idea sounds to be the go. Definitely something i plan on carrying out my own tests on for sure. Cheers for your input mate.
I knew I did something wrong. I only cleaned the botten part of the egr. Never thought about the moving part aswell, may consider looking at this to see if mine opens n closes smoothly.
Great bit of advice i have been plagued with hesitation at full throttle. I have changed the Maf and Map sensor on my f30 320D and still having issues and im now convinced this may be the problem
You can modify the EGR Valve mechanism -polishing the surface -correct the spring position i have tested this many times.An example the egr valve failed at 40.000 miles and now its working still fine at 150.000 miles.
Thank you for that information. I have heard mixed results of cleaning and applying lithium grease, and in this case the customer opted to replace the unit. But I will try that method on another as soon as I find someone happy to go that route.
I managed to change the EGR without taking the cooler out. The space around the EGR was tight and the coolant hoses to thr EGR was very short. I asked a BMW technician and he said that the new EGR will adapt to the car after driving it a while.
You don't need to remove the cooler. And yes it will adapt in time. Just good practice as mechanic to carry put the adaptations before giving it back to the customer.
I had my intake removed and cleaned, they said they also done the EGR cooler as well but I still get the same codes 49CF & 49CE Going to pull the EGR off to take a look as I don't trust the very young mechanic who did the messy job of removing and cleaning the intake manifold actually knew what he was actually doing with the EGR
So I've just gone to inspect my egr valve on a 320d engine, n47 is it?. The plastic egr pipe was actually snapped at the bottom. I touched it lightly and the whole thing broke off! Started better afterwards without the exhaust gases. But the actuator underneath is going in and out repeatedly. So best sort properly at some point. Or do I just forget about and get on with my life? Probably...
Thank you so much.. ive been gettinf a drive train error ans the cars running rich. I will pull this out later and test it. Do you think the cooler needs to be changed too if this is an issue. The diagnostics are showing egr/cat converter.
My EGR valve had the same wear like this, I've just replaced my EGR valve, but when it runs for a short while the car begins to shake & vibrate!.... is this similiar to issues you were having with the pierburg models? I have the feeling its defective or maybe partially open. No warning lights on dash.
Great video. I am getting lumpy running when cold, occasional hesitation and fault codes which suggest EGR faults. I took the cover off and my valve is also sticking. There seems to be side to side movement in the pin with the wheel on top which is causing it to jam. The dilemma I have now is do I replace the valve or simply get it mapped out when I have my remap done...
When changing the EGR. Can you just clamp the two cooling hoses, replace the egr and install the ends of the hoses to the new one without bleeding the system? Update: I have looked at the EGR and hoses, and it seems to be a bit hard using clamps on the cooling hoses as they are very short and the space around them are minimal. I did take the cover off the EGR and when trying to move the mechanism to the open position it sticks.
Hi Problem solved easy without removing the egr ! Just take the plastic cap of from egr and spray some w40 ,do some manual movings will be like brand new again !
Hi mate I've cleaned up the egr 2 or 3 times now the engine light goes off then a few days/weeks later same problem. I then check the egr and its sticking again the car seems to be jumpy in low end gears and pulling off is my only other option to replace the egr now thanks
Hi my x6 seems like it's sucking back through the engine my car is o8plate and EGR VALVE is just vacuum can you do vid on x5 x6 plz and what do you think about my car thanks
Sucking back through the engine? What do you mean by this? If your egr valve is vacuum only, it is an m57 diesel engine. Yes i can do a video on this engine. If you explain more what is happening maybe i can help. Thanks.
How much it should be labour to put new ERG valve plz help. Is it worth to put seconds egr vale or not if i can't afford kindly give me your advice thank you.
You are supposed to calibrate it yes. But tbh I have had people replace them in the past without calibrating them and had no issues. I personally would calibrate it.
my N57-engine with 245hp shows me the check-engine light with the Error Code 257E00. Do you think cleaning the EGR-Valve will fix the problem. Because the Error code locks more like a electronic error than a mechanical error. Also our glow plug und glow plug controls unit shows some errors even after replacing all 6 glow plugs and the controls unit. I already invest 600€... Its so depressing when you put money in and the mechanic gives you a not fixed car back.
When you install new ones, do you activate them to open and then install them? I’ve heard from various places that that’s way to install the BMW electronic EGR valves otherwise they’ll over extend and become damaged.
That is correct for a lot of bmw ones. They are in the extended position out of the box, and need to be retracted to stop them being damaged as they'd bottom out on the housing
Hi, would a faulty egr valve cause high pressure before the dpf, the reason for asking is I have an egr fault, bogging down on power. I have high exhaust back pressure before the dpf. Car is a 2010 BMW 318D M Sport. Thanks
Sounds like a blocked dpf. An egr fault will prevent regeneration of the dpf and allow it to block up. The egr needs to be fully operational and is driven to the closed position during dpf regeneration to maintain heat in the engine.
@Four Rings Auto Hi, yes the dpf was blocked @ 1000 mb at idle. I sorted the egr valve and fitted a new BMW dpf back pressure sensor, but it gave the same readings as the original sensor. 😀. Tried various dpf cleaning via the fuel tank, a slight improvement, but I'm going to spray wynns off car dpf cleaner down the back pressure sensor tube and leave over night and see if that makes a difference.thanks for responding..
My problem is after removing both bolts, the EGR will not detach, its completely seized to the lower half, tried hammers, levers, wd 40 and nothing will release it, i presume the built up carbon between the two surfaces it acting like a super glue, any ideas?
I found this when removing mine to give it a clean, I used a small hammer to gently tap the top section on the side , first one way then the other , once it started to move around, I positioned it so the holes were off set then I used the screws that hold it together and put them in from the underside and as I tightened them a turn on each one at a time they slowly helped to push the top part upwards making it easier to take the top section off
Also carbon getting along the valve stem and binding it. But yes i agree, you can usually see noticeable wear on the arm. I have tried polishing and white lithium grease which makes it smoother, but for how long?
Hi in my n57 I have faced 4CAE fault code, I have replaced EGR for PIERBURG(old one was WAHLER) after a month new error occured 40E9, new valve works smothly. Is there any more parts afecting to EGR,? Could You please advice?
Had this issue. Only use Wahler Borg Warner. The peirburg ones have been coming back. Had 3 in a row, no more pierburg being fitted here for egr valves. Have fitted wahler for past couple of years and never had an issue.
The pierburg casting looks poor too. Definitely not the usual quality from them. Try to stick to the OE manufacturer. BMW fits Wahler, so Wahler goes back in.
@@FourRingsAuto hello thanks for your comment! I've ordered yesterday a Pierburg on Amazon for 150€ (15days delay). And a Wahler was at 110€ 4 days delay. I canceled the pierburg one !
@@FourRingsAuto Hello again! I changed the valve with the Wahler one. But now I have a fault code 40D4 Exhaust gas recirculation actuator, position control, which still comes. I did reset the adaptation in service function, reset EGR adaptation. But still here. Could the egr is wrong? Or the EGR needs time to adapt? When I do the EGR test it goes to 95% easily. Thanks a lot
Mine was exactly as described here. Easily removed without disconnection of pipes or connectors, washed all areas, particularly wheel, shaft and return pin with ethanol both clean and dirty side. Reinserted and has been working perfectly for 9 months. Cars performance is fully restored and mpg much improved. cost zero, time 30 mins. E71 N57 2013.
I can't find a video anywhere of how to remove the cap to clean actuator without removing the whole unit from the car
@@pea-dub so on the BMW X6 I remove the plastic engine cover by pulling off. Eased off the air intake to make space , just pulls out of the filter and unscrews at the jubilee connector, careful of the mass airflow sensor on the intake , either unplug the connector or move carefully to one side. The EGR value has a pull off black plastic cap, nothing holding it in but is tight , eased off with a flat head screw driver. That exposes the value return mechanism, which can be cleaned up with egr cleaner or ethanol or similar. Two hex bolts hold the egr exhaust side in place , if you remove the bolts the whole valve will wiggle out of the exhaust with a bit of patience, I cleaned it like new with some egr spray. Can be cleaned in situ without and need to drain down coolant. No issues with the value since cleaning it up. Car was stalling and failing to start prior.
@@huckles5772 that's great info mate! Thanks a lot👍
@@pea-dub good luck , if you do remove the air intake stick a rag in to block it. Sod’s law guarantees you’ll drop one of the hex bolts from the egr valve straight down the open intake.
Noticed a EGR control deviation fault in ISTA and popped the plastic cap off in situ, true enough the roller wheel was jamming in the actuation arm. Little clean with a scuff pad to remove the gunk off the wheel and arm till it was moving smoothly, lubed with some high temp lithium grease. Car drives great now, must have been bad for a while.
Now this is a proper instructional video! Great explanation of how the valve works, what can go wrong, and even how to easily detach the casing without damaging it to test the issue by yourself. Very informative, thanks!
Thank you for your feedback. It's much appreciated and glad to help. Hit subscribe if you haven't already. Cheers
I tried getting the plastic cover off and it got damaged. I now have a little Hole in the plastic thing, do i need to get a new one or does it work if i glue the piece back?
A very useful video! 2 questions (on N57): 1. I can see how mechanical stiction can cause the valve to remain open, but is this fault detectable via Ista? 2. Will this stiction effect be influenced by temperature of the valve?
My BMW dealership is not detecting any error codes, but I am convinced the EGR valve has been failing to close fully, for ages. A thoroughly gummed up intake manifold is the result. I would guess that they only test for error codes in the workshop, where exhaust system temperatures will be lower than they are at operating speeds on the motorway.
My car has a full, comprehensive BMW warranty, which should cover "wear and tear" but the dealer is refusing to put in a claim.
Same valve on all the 2.0 Diesel engines as well. Had good results with polishing the the contact surface on the arm with a small polishing pad on a dremmel. Even new out of the box they feel a bit sticky in my opinion. It may be a luck of the draw scenario as to getting a good one. I’m also thinking the spring tension may lessen over time.
Yeah the n47 has the same valve. I agree the polish idea sounds to be the go. Definitely something i plan on carrying out my own tests on for sure. Cheers for your input mate.
I knew I did something wrong.
I only cleaned the botten part of the egr.
Never thought about the moving part aswell, may consider looking at this to see if mine opens n closes smoothly.
Great bit of advice i have been plagued with hesitation at full throttle.
I have changed the Maf and Map sensor on my f30 320D and still having issues and im now convinced this may be the problem
You can modify the EGR Valve mechanism
-polishing the surface
-correct the spring position
i have tested this many times.An example the egr valve failed at 40.000 miles and now its working still fine at 150.000 miles.
Thank you for that information. I have heard mixed results of cleaning and applying lithium grease, and in this case the customer opted to replace the unit. But I will try that method on another as soon as I find someone happy to go that route.
How can you modify the ERG Valve mechanism? You mean electric the actuator ?
i have also stacking egr, coper spray helped in my case, not sure how long
@@mikkifreeky be good to get some feedback down the track.
where to apply? in the spring of on the valve? where?
I managed to change the EGR without taking the cooler out. The space around the EGR was tight and the coolant hoses to thr EGR was very short. I asked a BMW technician and he said that the new EGR will adapt to the car after driving it a while.
You don't need to remove the cooler. And yes it will adapt in time. Just good practice as mechanic to carry put the adaptations before giving it back to the customer.
if you have the right software you can delete the adaptations from the memory (before starting the car with ne EGR)
@@relaxat1732 I guess you would need INPA with network capability (F-series cars)? Or are there cheaper alternatives?
@@berntjonassen2396 yes you need software like that
Got this issue on my e91 320d too I think.
Thanks for the help mate
I had my intake removed and cleaned, they said they also done the EGR cooler as well but I still get the same codes 49CF & 49CE
Going to pull the EGR off to take a look as I don't trust the very young mechanic who did the messy job of removing and cleaning the intake manifold actually knew what he was actually doing with the EGR
So I've just gone to inspect my egr valve on a 320d engine, n47 is it?.
The plastic egr pipe was actually snapped at the bottom. I touched it lightly and the whole thing broke off!
Started better afterwards without the exhaust gases.
But the actuator underneath is going in and out repeatedly. So best sort properly at some point.
Or do I just forget about and get on with my life? Probably...
Thank you so much.. ive been gettinf a drive train error ans the cars running rich. I will pull this out later and test it. Do you think the cooler needs to be changed too if this is an issue. The diagnostics are showing egr/cat converter.
My EGR valve had the same wear like this, I've just replaced my EGR valve, but when it runs for a short while the car begins to shake & vibrate!.... is this similiar to issues you were having with the pierburg models? I have the feeling its defective or maybe partially open. No warning lights on dash.
Great video. I am getting lumpy running when cold, occasional hesitation and fault codes which suggest EGR faults. I took the cover off and my valve is also sticking. There seems to be side to side movement in the pin with the wheel on top which is causing it to jam. The dilemma I have now is do I replace the valve or simply get it mapped out when I have my remap done...
Rouch cold running can also be down to carbon in the inlet manifold. I have a video showing that too.
Thank you, I will check that out as well.
When changing the EGR. Can you just clamp the two cooling hoses, replace the egr and install the ends of the hoses to the new one without bleeding the system?
Update: I have looked at the EGR and hoses, and it seems to be a bit hard using clamps on the cooling hoses as they are very short and the space around them are minimal. I did take the cover off the EGR and when trying to move the mechanism to the open position it sticks.
Hi
Problem solved easy without removing the egr ! Just take the plastic cap of from egr and spray some w40 ,do some manual movings will be like brand new again !
I prefer to remove and soda blast. But the main thing is it works for you. Great result.
Does that could cause oil heat goes over 100 degrees some times?
Gona check mine, very helpful video sir
I have an AIR MASS to EGR fault, air mass to high. I did a smoke test and couldn't find any leak. Is this related to EGR like what you discuss? Thanks
Hi mate I've cleaned up the egr 2 or 3 times now the engine light goes off then a few days/weeks later same problem. I then check the egr and its sticking again the car seems to be jumpy in low end gears and pulling off is my only other option to replace the egr now thanks
Will this also cause my 2011 e87 118d to run rough on a cold start up but then clears after 45 ssconds?? 👍
Hi my x6 seems like it's sucking back through the engine my car is o8plate and EGR VALVE is just vacuum can you do vid on x5 x6 plz and what do you think about my car thanks
Sucking back through the engine? What do you mean by this? If your egr valve is vacuum only, it is an m57 diesel engine. Yes i can do a video on this engine. If you explain more what is happening maybe i can help. Thanks.
Top man very helpful 👍
How much it should be labour to put new ERG valve plz help.
Is it worth to put seconds egr vale or not if i can't afford kindly give me your advice thank you.
Do you need to calibrate or somehow pair the newly installed egr unit to the car or can you replace it by yourself?
You are supposed to calibrate it yes. But tbh I have had people replace them in the past without calibrating them and had no issues. I personally would calibrate it.
@@FourRingsAuto How can I reset EGR adaptation using ISTA? have you found any manuals?
How did you remove it from radiator cooling?
my N57-engine with 245hp shows me the check-engine light with the Error Code 257E00. Do you think cleaning the EGR-Valve will fix the problem. Because the Error code locks more like a electronic error than a mechanical error. Also our glow plug und glow plug controls unit shows some errors even after replacing all 6 glow plugs and the controls unit. I already invest 600€... Its so depressing when you put money in and the mechanic gives you a not fixed car back.
Ever get around to sorting this mate ? Having same issue
When you install new ones, do you activate them to open and then install them? I’ve heard from various places that that’s way to install the BMW electronic EGR valves otherwise they’ll over extend and become damaged.
That is correct for a lot of bmw ones. They are in the extended position out of the box, and need to be retracted to stop them being damaged as they'd bottom out on the housing
It's true for older types of EGR, not this one
Hi, would a faulty egr valve cause high pressure before the dpf, the reason for asking is I have an egr fault, bogging down on power. I have high exhaust back pressure before the dpf. Car is a 2010 BMW 318D M Sport. Thanks
Sounds like a blocked dpf. An egr fault will prevent regeneration of the dpf and allow it to block up. The egr needs to be fully operational and is driven to the closed position during dpf regeneration to maintain heat in the engine.
@Four Rings Auto Hi, yes the dpf was blocked @ 1000 mb at idle. I sorted the egr valve and fitted a new BMW dpf back pressure sensor, but it gave the same readings as the original sensor. 😀. Tried various dpf cleaning via the fuel tank, a slight improvement, but I'm going to spray wynns off car dpf cleaner down the back pressure sensor tube and leave over night and see if that makes a difference.thanks for responding..
Top man
My problem is after removing both bolts, the EGR will not detach, its completely seized to the lower half, tried hammers, levers, wd 40 and nothing will release it, i presume the built up carbon between the two surfaces it acting like a super glue, any ideas?
Yep happens. Have to try rotate it. Usually penetrating oil and hammer and punch to try rotate it.
I found this when removing mine to give it a clean, I used a small hammer to gently tap the top section on the side , first one way then the other , once it started to move around, I positioned it so the holes were off set then I used the screws that hold it together and put them in from the underside and as I tightened them a turn on each one at a time they slowly helped to push the top part upwards making it easier to take the top section off
Brilliant
Just put a drop of engine oil, onder the plastic cap on the pin that moves down. Problem solved.
It doesn't always work, the jamming is caused by wear on both the pin which goes up and down and the arm which the wheel runs in.
Also carbon getting along the valve stem and binding it. But yes i agree, you can usually see noticeable wear on the arm. I have tried polishing and white lithium grease which makes it smoother, but for how long?
Hi in my n57 I have faced 4CAE fault code, I have replaced EGR for PIERBURG(old one was WAHLER) after a month new error occured 40E9, new valve works smothly. Is there any more parts afecting to EGR,? Could You please advice?
Had this issue. Only use Wahler Borg Warner. The peirburg ones have been coming back. Had 3 in a row, no more pierburg being fitted here for egr valves. Have fitted wahler for past couple of years and never had an issue.
The pierburg casting looks poor too. Definitely not the usual quality from them. Try to stick to the OE manufacturer. BMW fits Wahler, so Wahler goes back in.
@@FourRingsAuto hello thanks for your comment! I've ordered yesterday a Pierburg on Amazon for 150€ (15days delay).
And a Wahler was at 110€ 4 days delay. I canceled the pierburg one !
@@FourRingsAuto Hello again!
I changed the valve with the Wahler one. But now I have a fault code 40D4 Exhaust gas recirculation actuator, position control, which still comes. I did reset the adaptation in service function, reset EGR adaptation. But still here.
Could the egr is wrong? Or the EGR needs time to adapt?
When I do the EGR test it goes to 95% easily. Thanks a lot
@@adrienbadts5013 How did you get on with this - i have the same problem - position errors after fitting new Wahler EGR and resetting adaptions.
Would this cause a drive train issue alarm coming on temporally?
Possibly. Lot's of engine codes can do that.
Steven Pitt mine did mate
How many times can you repeat the same info? Oy!