Subscribed, I have a 1989 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 4wd. Currently replacing all brake systems. Everyone was telling me to quit on it or sell it... nope my daddy and grand daddy had old trucks and I will do the same. Best trucks ever made and hands on fixing! I'll be following cause this helped me today to be confident!
I'm amazed you were able to do these hoses and not break the brake lines like I did. Mine is also a 1995 but with 4wd. Not nearly as rusty as yours. The flare nuts were rusted to the lines, and broke upon removal. Tried soaking them first, than heated them...Ended up replacing them both lines and hoses!
I like that you not only replaced this line clearly, you left in that you broke off the bleeder, reminds us that, " Hey , Shit happens . … " Great video.
I have an old 1979 F350. Today I took both front tires off to check on the front brakes, to see if I have plenty of pad left. They look good yet. But holy cow the tire/wheel weighs so much, AND I had 8 lugs to take off/ put on. A lot more work than I'm used to since I usually only work on cars lol. I barely was strong enough to lift the tire on back to the wheel. Gonna have to make a jig of some sort for next time
I’ve had this problem multiple times, on my 93 hardbody and my 89 bronco. Tell tale sign for me is when you feel one side grabbing. Then when you go out and spit on your wheel it turns to steam. On my 93 it would happen maybe once a week, I’d have to take off the tire, let it cool, then pry the pads apart. It would be fixed for a little while. Changed out this hose and fixed it right up. Happened on my bronco a few years back, now it happened again on the other side. Thanks for the video.
Got one of these to do tomorrow, thanks for the thorough explanation. Awesome that you kept that broken bleeder screw... it's a farmers truck I'm working on so it might go the same as your bleeder lol
Man thank you we were wondering what was grinding on the left side and the hose broke and then the brakes went out thanks for giving a totarual on how to fix it
Huh. Similar to my 97 cougar of over 10yrs now. I 💘 my merc. I'm getting ready to replace my left f cal and that tube. That wrench is awesome. Unfortunately I'll be using my 1/2 line wrench. Great video👍
Thanks for you & video, I'm gonna try & tackle my 97 f150,I have no brakes my hose broke where metal line meets rubber line off caliber. You truck looks a lot like my model. Thanks a lot. Video very understandable & clear & I a dummy!
I have the same problem, and I have the left side in, but the right side will not go in. Feels like the fitting is to big. But it's the same as the other side. So I don't know what to do
Thanks for the video. Love your brake spanners. I just ordered a line spanner, so i will c if that works first before ordering your type. Thanks again. From Cyprus
I was about to lose it, because my new brake line is different... 🤯 Then realized I'm replacing the passenger side brake line. There isn't that side screw. It's end on! Tackling this chore tomorrow morning! Wish me luck! '91 F-150 2wd
Another good one Boss. I went to replace a turbine engine, small, in Kansas and every fitting broke that I put a wrench to. Old age and whatnot. It was replace all the tubing, hoses etc, a whole week Two questions: 1. did you think you might could remove that bleeder with an easy out and what made you change your mind to the whole caliper swap? 2. Are you thinking about doing battle with the undercarriage rust and if so, what would be your strategy? I have a few dry weather vehicles about, but we now live in a cold/road salt weather in the wintertime place and welcome the input. Thanks!
turbotek 2014 Thanks for the comments,, I half heart attempted an easy out and it snapped off, I didn't really care because I warrantied(LIfetime) the whole caliper. As far as the rusty frame and such, I'm just letting it live out it's life. I don't think there will be any more serious rust thru but, If it does I'll address it them with either new parts or new truck. If you have good clean vehicles and you have to drive them in the salt, you may want to try undercoating or oil sprays to save them as long as you can.. My truck looks so ruff because the previous owner(2nd owner ,I'm 3rd) let it sit for two years in a wet grassy lot.. Then to make it worse ,I park in a poor drainage, almost always wet gravel driveway. I have seen more cars fall apart from sitting then anything else. When a car is driven regularly, It heats up all the components and allows it to "dry" itself.. letting it sit in a damp area is fast death.. Good luck with the rust battle!
Great video on this but I did get a laugh looking at that clip. I did mine last night and the clip installed had solid pieces on each side. Best guess is that is was put on some how at the factory because it was a circle on the hose. I was looking at your clip and appears that the cutting tools found it too; so I chuckled
Good clear instructions and filming...I have a problem with the Banjo bolt not seating in a new caliper...Old bolt, new caliper, have to replace the bolt too....Still, this is good instruction.
Driver Side Front Wheel as shown here on video, with the wheel straight, the only way to install this brake hose is to twist it one quarter turn to the right to meet with the brake line that comes down from the master cylinder. I almost want to redirect that line coming from the master cylinder to face down, so that the brake hose does not have any tension, and even more tension with the wheel turned to the left. My truck is exactly like this, but I had to purchase longer brake hose due to truck being lifted. Is there a reason why it is like this? Before I do something stupid, is it to prevent tire rub? See the video from 9:37 - 10:21 for reference. (You can click on 9:37 to take you directly to what I'm talking about)
Great video, I have a 95 straight 6 A arm broke on mine too! Did you end up torquing the bolt for the line on the caliper? The one with the copper crush washers. I'm replacing mine and cant find any torque specs on it.
I just got a leak on my truck tonight in the front line. I didn't press the brake anymore so as not to lose more fluid. Are both rear brakes on a separate circuit line and would those still work if I needed to brake? Not talking about the E-brake, but the fluid line going to the rear.
I was going to do this myself but decided I didn't want to deal with bleeding the system, so I had a shop do it now there trying to change me $430! For just those 2 little front break lines replaced
Good video ..Oddly enough I had ball joints put on.. Seems I have couple brake hoses starting to go. I had bought the truck off an old man who's father had drove the truck for years 2nd owner. So been having to replace so stuff just due the miles 175k. Little less rusty then yours seems. Anyways have a good one. o/
101spacecase Thanks.. Mine is really rusty, 2nd owner let it sit 2 YEARS in a field. I have parked it for the last 8 years in a gravel drive that has a tendency to hold water,so I have not been doing it any favors.. Im just under 196K on the original engine(sans one junkyard head. i drilled into a water passage trying to extract bolt for headers) I love this truck..just wished it wasn't rusty.. That and the fact I need a Big Block for towing now. Oh well, beggars can't be choosers.. take it easy!!
Hello sir, what is the name of those type of pliers you used on your brake line? The 10mm nut on my fitting is stripped. Going to use a vice grip tomorrow
I have seen this method of releasing caliper pressure ( prying with a screwdriver or whatever ), but I always wondered whether this would scar the rotor. Apparently not or you wouldn't have done it. How does that work?
I'm pretty careful not to scratch the rotor however even if I was able to scratch the rotor it would be superficial. Those rotors are pretty hard it's difficult to get a screwdriver to scratch it and almost impossible to scratch it to where there's any ill effects.
Plus check the main bearings bleeder valve and clean the brake bleeder valves . if there full of dirt you wont be bleeding the air out of the brakes I made that mistake
Santiago Dunbar It is a U-shaped slide.. With a long screwdriver and hammer tap it out of position.. When you have your new hose you can see how it works..
At 8:10 you said you loosened nut. I stripped mine. Did you loosen the nut pushing down or up with wrench from that view. Thanks. I would think down which is counterclockwise. Please help anyone
Everybody wants something different.. I have had multiple request for me to show all the work involved with a repair. There's a difference between "parts changers" and mechanics.. I go into detail to promote the latter of the two.
Matt Perez noise on bumps could be a whole bunch of things... best to Jack up the truck and move everything by hand or pry bar to see what moves and how much.. good luck..
His clip looked like it had been (fixed ) I mean broken in half, a good clip will only come off after the line on the back side has been taken off. You will have to lift the clip over the fitting and then pull the clip out. His was just half of the clip.
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Subscribed, I have a 1989 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 4wd. Currently replacing all brake systems. Everyone was telling me to quit on it or sell it... nope my daddy and grand daddy had old trucks and I will do the same. Best trucks ever made and hands on fixing! I'll be following cause this helped me today to be confident!
I'm amazed you were able to do these hoses and not break the brake lines like I did.
Mine is also a 1995 but with 4wd. Not nearly as rusty as yours. The flare nuts were
rusted to the lines, and broke upon removal. Tried soaking them first, than heated
them...Ended up replacing them both lines and hoses!
Best vid on this procedure I've found on RUclips. Very inclusive. Wish someone would show the same with a 2000 Ranger XL.
👍😁
I like that you not only replaced this line clearly, you left in that you broke off the bleeder, reminds us that,
" Hey , Shit happens . … " Great video.
R Scott 👍😁
I have an old 1979 F350. Today I took both front tires off to check on the front brakes, to see if I have plenty of pad left. They look good yet. But holy cow the tire/wheel weighs so much, AND I had 8 lugs to take off/ put on. A lot more work than I'm used to since I usually only work on cars lol.
I barely was strong enough to lift the tire on back to the wheel. Gonna have to make a jig of some sort for next time
I’ve had this problem multiple times, on my 93 hardbody and my 89 bronco. Tell tale sign for me is when you feel one side grabbing. Then when you go out and spit on your wheel it turns to steam. On my 93 it would happen maybe once a week, I’d have to take off the tire, let it cool, then pry the pads apart. It would be fixed for a little while. Changed out this hose and fixed it right up. Happened on my bronco a few years back, now it happened again on the other side. Thanks for the video.
Got one of these to do tomorrow, thanks for the thorough explanation. Awesome that you kept that broken bleeder screw... it's a farmers truck I'm working on so it might go the same as your bleeder lol
Hey guy thanks, I'm tackling my '98 f-150 tomorrow, thanks for a CLEAR view of what I'm up against
Good luck..
Thank you. Excellent video. I am going to be replacing the brake hose tomorrow on my 92 F150.
Man thank you we were wondering what was grinding on the left side and the hose broke and then the brakes went out thanks for giving a totarual on how to fix it
Thank you sir. I took possession of The Grandpa Truck in December and blew a brake line pulling out of the driveway over the weekend 😮
Very detailed video hope this helps me get my bronco hose off tomorrow didn't know about clip thanks
Thank you for the detailed video helped me get my 98 Lincoln navigator back on the road
Huh. Similar to my 97 cougar of over 10yrs now. I 💘 my merc. I'm getting ready to replace my left f cal and that tube. That wrench is awesome. Unfortunately I'll be using my 1/2 line wrench. Great video👍
Thanks for you & video, I'm gonna try & tackle my 97 f150,I have no brakes my hose broke where metal line meets rubber line off caliber. You truck looks a lot like my model. Thanks a lot. Video very understandable & clear & I a dummy!
👍😁
I have the same problem, and I have the left side in, but the right side will not go in. Feels like the fitting is to big. But it's the same as the other side. So I don't know what to do
Very good video. Answered things I was thinking as he went along on the job.
Thanks for the video. Love your brake spanners. I just ordered a line spanner, so i will c if that works first before ordering your type. Thanks again. From Cyprus
I was about to lose it, because my new brake line is different... 🤯
Then realized I'm replacing the passenger side brake line. There isn't that side screw. It's end on!
Tackling this chore tomorrow morning! Wish me luck!
'91 F-150 2wd
Another good one Boss. I went to replace a turbine engine, small, in Kansas and every fitting broke that I put a wrench to. Old age and whatnot. It was replace all the tubing, hoses etc, a whole week Two questions: 1. did you think you might could remove that bleeder with an easy out and what made you change your mind to the whole caliper swap? 2. Are you thinking about doing battle with the undercarriage rust and if so, what would be your strategy? I have a few dry weather vehicles about, but we now live in a cold/road salt weather in the wintertime place and welcome the input. Thanks!
turbotek 2014 Thanks for the comments,, I half heart attempted an easy out and it snapped off, I didn't really care because I warrantied(LIfetime) the whole caliper. As far as the rusty frame and such, I'm just letting it live out it's life. I don't think there will be any more serious rust thru but, If it does I'll address it them with either new parts or new truck. If you have good clean vehicles and you have to drive them in the salt, you may want to try undercoating or oil sprays to save them as long as you can.. My truck looks so ruff because the previous owner(2nd owner ,I'm 3rd) let it sit for two years in a wet grassy lot.. Then to make it worse ,I park in a poor drainage, almost always wet gravel driveway. I have seen more cars fall apart from sitting then anything else. When a car is driven regularly, It heats up all the components and allows it to "dry" itself.. letting it sit in a damp area is fast death.. Good luck with the rust battle!
Great video on this but I did get a laugh looking at that clip. I did mine last night and the clip installed had solid pieces on each side. Best guess is that is was put on some how at the factory because it was a circle on the hose. I was looking at your clip and appears that the cutting tools found it too; so I chuckled
Good clear instructions and filming...I have a problem with the Banjo bolt not seating in a new caliper...Old bolt, new caliper, have to replace the bolt too....Still, this is good instruction.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
👍😁
Driver Side Front Wheel as shown here on video, with the wheel straight, the only way to install this brake hose is to twist it one quarter turn to the right to meet with the brake line that comes down from the master cylinder. I almost want to redirect that line coming from the master cylinder to face down, so that the brake hose does not have any tension, and even more tension with the wheel turned to the left. My truck is exactly like this, but I had to purchase longer brake hose due to truck being lifted. Is there a reason why it is like this? Before I do something stupid, is it to prevent tire rub? See the video from 9:37 - 10:21 for reference. (You can click on 9:37 to take you directly to what I'm talking about)
You make the best videos. Thank you so much!
👍😁
Great video, I have a 95 straight 6 A arm broke on mine too! Did you end up torquing the bolt for the line on the caliper? The one with the copper crush washers. I'm replacing mine and cant find any torque specs on it.
Thank you, I wish others had so much detail like this.
Man! Thank you. good watch! very informative look at the issue. Looking forward to more of your vids, Syd
I just got a leak on my truck tonight in the front line. I didn't press the brake anymore so as not to lose more fluid. Are both rear brakes on a separate circuit line and would those still work if I needed to brake? Not talking about the E-brake, but the fluid line going to the rear.
Excellent content I appreciate the tips on tools and bleeding too.
👍😁
I was going to do this myself but decided I didn't want to deal with bleeding the system, so I had a shop do it now there trying to change me $430! For just those 2 little front break lines replaced
Thanks for the video very helpful
Very Informative, and a Great Video
Gary T 👍😊
Great video sir!
🇺🇲
Great video, you won't believe it, but I have to do the same thing on my E350 rv brake line both sides. thanks for sharing.
Rusty Nail Thanks... Always something to do on these older vehicles..
I know it never ends.
Great explanatory video, thanks so much
Well done. Thanks for the articulate explanation.
Awesome vids homeboy
What about the bolt the fluid flows through is there a certain way it should be in so the fluid will flow?
Good video ..Oddly enough I had ball joints put on.. Seems I have couple brake hoses starting to go. I had bought the truck off an old man who's father had drove the truck for years 2nd owner. So been having to replace so stuff just due the miles 175k. Little less rusty then yours seems. Anyways have a good one. o/
101spacecase Thanks.. Mine is really rusty, 2nd owner let it sit 2 YEARS in a field. I have parked it for the last 8 years in a gravel drive that has a tendency to hold water,so I have not been doing it any favors.. Im just under 196K on the original engine(sans one junkyard head. i drilled into a water passage trying to extract bolt for headers) I love this truck..just wished it wasn't rusty.. That and the fact I need a Big Block for towing now. Oh well, beggars can't be choosers.. take it easy!!
Good stuff here sir!
Hello sir, what is the name of those type of pliers you used on your brake line?
The 10mm nut on my fitting is stripped. Going to use a vice grip tomorrow
Auto Parts stores sell them
@@Foxboss9 just bought a clench wrench online. Ain't no auto parts store where I live. Thanks for the video
Liked and subscribed. Thank you for your help!
Thanks! Glad it helped..
I have seen this method of releasing caliper pressure ( prying with a screwdriver or whatever ), but I always wondered whether this would scar the rotor. Apparently not or you wouldn't have done it. How does that work?
I'm pretty careful not to scratch the rotor however even if I was able to scratch the rotor it would be superficial. Those rotors are pretty hard it's difficult to get a screwdriver to scratch it and almost impossible to scratch it to where there's any ill effects.
Thanks Boss
Plus check the main bearings bleeder valve and clean the brake bleeder valves . if there full of dirt you wont be bleeding the air out of the brakes
I made that mistake
Nice video.
Awesome job
How did you pull the retaining clip off the back of the hose mount?
Santiago Dunbar It is a U-shaped slide.. With a long screwdriver and hammer tap it out of position.. When you have your new hose you can see how it works..
Thanks, I understand now. I was unclear at first.
Very helpful thank you
Thank You
Very Good video thanks
☑😁
Good video! Great tips ..
Mustang 347Stroked thanks.😀
At 8:10 you said you loosened nut. I stripped mine. Did you loosen the nut pushing down or up with wrench from that view. Thanks. I would think down which is counterclockwise. Please help anyone
It's a regular threaded. So, if it's directly in front of you and you are looking straight on at it ... left would be loose
@@Foxboss9 Thanks now I need to buy that special wrench you have.
You r the best- thanks
😊
nice video thank
Would hv helped if u show how the clip came of. Doesn’t the brake line have to go through the clip and then u connect the brake line
Googled the clips and i indeed see two of the four clips (front and rear) are not u shaped!
Tank you God bless you
:-)
Thanks!
😁
Good video...thanks
+Jimmie ALLEN :-)
Its nice that you take the time but the video is titled brake hose and you dont touch the brake hose till 3 quarters into the vid.
Everybody wants something different.. I have had multiple request for me to show all the work involved with a repair. There's a difference between "parts changers" and mechanics.. I go into detail to promote the latter of the two.
tnks
That brake fluid! 🤣
What is the yellow bar to the right of the suspension?
Are you referring to the shock absorber?
Foxboss9 possibly. I have some kind of metal on metal noise when I hit bumps at higher speeds. Trying to figure out what it is.
Matt Perez noise on bumps could be a whole bunch of things... best to Jack up the truck and move everything by hand or pry bar to see what moves and how much.. good luck..
going though the fame you did,nt show that the hose going to the other side that one is not fun to get at , correctI have 96 with no give in it
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how do I remove the clip from the back, that's the part I'm stuck on??
Screwdriver,prying,pb blaster,whatever it takes..sometimes they are difficult
Foxboss9 thank you!
His clip looked like it had been (fixed ) I mean broken in half, a good clip will only come off after the line on the back side has been taken off. You will have to lift the clip over the fitting and then pull the clip out. His was just half of the clip.
Banjo fitting. Not a bolt. Copper washer. Not a crush washer. Good video though
Zero help on how to get the clip out
Skip to 4:25 for the start
What is the name on the tools
amzn.to/1QTRPCi
Thanks :-)
tackle this next!!
👍
i stripped it :(