EPOXY FAIL | Don't Make This $1000+ Mistake
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
- When working with epoxy, it's easy to make a costly mistake. We've made our fair share of mistakes and we want to share them with you so you can avoid them.
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Here's What We Used:
WOOD: Live Edge Walnut River Sets
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FORM: 24" by 48" No Seal Form
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EPOXY: Ecopoxy FlowCast
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PIGMENT: Black Diamond Pigments "Dragons Breath"
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WOOD FINISH: Rubio Monocoat Pure 2C Oil
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SHOP WOODWORKING SUPPLIES @ www.JeffMackSupply.com
Let us know if you have any questions or suggestions for future videos.
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As a sidenote, it's really good that you upload a video on a failed project. RUclips generally paints an overly optimistic image of these epoxy projects. Thanks for sharing this valuable lesson.
After all that time and money wasted they at least deserve some views 😁
Yeah this peice is still too nice not to share
It's sad that epoxy is used at all.
@@D-Vinko the side without the epoxy was far more intresting than epoxy side.
My sister started working by with epoxy and was surprised how mainly fails she had
Easy... Four tapered legs, 60s style, that go through the epoxy/wood (curved upwards, like a bowl) , that support a glass table top above. So you use the curved piece here as a magazine/remotes shelf, with a functional flat (tempered) glass table above that you can still see the cool effect!
👍🏼 good idea
simple yet elegant solution!
Hmmm... Sounds good but do you think he should reinforce the bow from underneath eth so as to prevent further bending and an eventual SnAP!?
@@jamesmm1124 Yeah I think this one is just going to keep warping
@@jamesmm1124 good point, I would get some black steel banding between opposing legs on the long edge.
Pour a slim layer of epoxy over wood side to prevent future warping and a clear layer over top to level it (you can even do some cnc 3d waves on that red epoxy to make it pop more beneath clear epoxy).
the colour is gorgeous. I'm late to the party but I can see it as a really cool headboard for a bed. Be great to know what you ended up doing with the piece
I would flip it on edge and use it as the fantastically, awesome, curved front to a bar. Add a bar top and some shelving bolted to the back of it and it would look incredible. You could even possibly repeat your "mistake" on a smaller scale to make some matching bar stools which should have the curve.
You saved me from writing the same thing. I think it looks good curved.
Yes! I'd even try to curve it a bit more, but that's a good idea
I was thinking the same
👍
It’s not that curved
I've had similar bad results with a table top made out of many glued up pieces which would later bend due to regular heat and humidity. Solution was to fill up a tub with hot water, leave it on top of the tub and weigh it down flat (not immersed in the water, just exposed to vapor), and cover the whole thing with a shower curtain. Left as-is for a few hours. Then removed, and weighed down flat on the floor with heavy objects. The following day I carved two notches in the back (across the pieces) and installed angle iron pieces (pre-drilled for counter sunk screws) across the piece. Have had no more issues after this.
Yes, this is best and fast way to fix this project!
Unfortunately this can't be done due to the sealing with epoxy. It won't "give". There are too many uneven spaces between the boards as no pressure was applied with clamps to keep the project flat to begin with.
@@penelopelgoss2520 Steaming the wood is where the "give" is supposed to happen I think. I understood that the function of the epoxy being down was for the sake of getting the true side flat. I also would think this is the reason for the slow and frequent method is to not crack the epoxy in flex-back. I have seen people straighten finished guitar necks in a tension method similar described. Any thermoplastic may be leaned into a warmed enough state to flex in gentle manners. I looked up the info on the product page and it has an NA for the data that would make you state that it doesn't give or flex. I would actually love to see the info that shows the shearing and tensile strengths as it would be helpful in determining if I would invest in this for some projects I have planned.
Seems like in this case it wouldn't likely "give" easily. I imagine the force would probably cause the epoxy side to act as a fulcrum and the wood pieces will separate/crack. Heating up the resin side gently with weights on top may allow the cured resin to soften, making the flattening process safer.
@@penelopelgoss2520 The piece warped after the epoxy had cured, so it should be able to "warp" back. You can see it was flat when they sanded it.
Use it as wall decor. Put a florescent tube on the back, using the curve to direct light from the top and bottom.
This is exactly what I was thinking!
That would make a GREAT bench! There are a lot of dual sided benches in areas where people can sit all the way around it and enjoy conversation or stretch out to read a good book.
A 1" brushed stainless riser in each corner supporting a nice piece of glass, some 4" feet underneath, and you've got an amazing coffee table
Smart idea!
I would rip it down the middle and create 2 “curved” benches. Make a base or some legs that incorporate curves in them as well and it will look like the curved top was intentional.
That's not a bad idea to turn this fail into something useable. I like your thinking!! 👍
That’s exactly what I was thinking. Some nice entry way benches
Great idea!
Good idea but tough to make it look intentional after they already made a whoopsie video 🤣
I think we have a winner.
Idea for curved piece: Make it into a hanging light. Make recesses from the wood side almost all the way through (or all the way if you prefer), install the lights in those recesses, then suspend it from the ceiling using metal wire. would be a very impressive, unique lighting fixture that also illustrates how you respond to "failure".
Wouldn't it be way too heavy for a light fixture?
@@lindab424 the weight is certainly a concern, but more of a technical challenge than a hard limit. With the right suspension cables, it could absolutely work. Excellent point to consider tho.
That is one gorgeous piece of wall art! Absolutely beautiful "fail"! Every "fail" is someone's beauty!
That's a nice gentle curve. It would really pop as a front panel for a reception / cash desk in a business where you don't need a big desk. Put some recessed lighting over it so you can really see the depth and colour.
This! It would make an interesting wall piece of some kind.
It's interesting that RUclips's algorithm kicked this video out 9 months after its creation.
If you still have the tabletop sitting around, here's an idea: slice it lengthwise into strips 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x 48". Turn the strips sideways and then laminate them back together to create a gently curved tabletop. The top surface of the new top will consist of cross-sections of the original top which could create a really interesting striped/arced pattern. I'd suggest leaving the curve instead of squaring it up and making it into a coffee table or something else that will primarily see use from one side.
same here
Why not to make it as a wall light/art piece.
@@blankblank9904 and here
gametable ... table bowling... just leave it as is...
You can probably still correct it by heating it and applying epoxy again on the other side to correct it.
Then use clamps and bolts.
Otherwise just use it as a fence or something.
I’d create an outside edge frame made of a metal that either is, or closely resembles a vintage cast iron. I’d also run a center brace across the underside (length wise) for support. I’d hide the screw holes by using a vintage pop-riveting looking cap, with a brass or copper coloring. That just might heavily increase this piece’s value to a much higher amount. 👍
Easier fix and more cost affective.
I believe the reason why the table began to bend is because you have the natural curvature of the log on the same direction.
You have placed each piece with the ring of the tree facing down. Meaning it will naturally want to curve again.
To fix. Place one peace facing down and the next facing up.
I would use it as a headboard and just live with the unique warping , I love it 😀
Would be cool mounted in an office too
Yes! Great idea. Mount it into a large oak headboard.
@@TheCentralflorida if it got mounted to a headboard it might stick out too far from the wall. If you got a TV wall mount that should be able to hold the weight of it and it'll look like since nice 3d wall art
@@annecantgame I pictured it as an inset piece. But probably crazy heavy for that.
I first imagined an art piece as well.
Great idea. I think it would work either way around.
That could be a decent wall mount or even a backdrop for a company logo. Some stainless steel lettering and lights would look dope!
Yes!
That’s a very nice idea
exactly what i thought! i would drill some holes on the woodside for some led light... imagine what it does with this dragoncolor stuff
Ya, its definitely not scrap
i 100% agree with THIS ^ company sign
Fix suggestion: Cut curved slab accross short dimention so you have 4 equal sections. Then use a router sled like a thickness planer to make 4 pieces truly flat. Resand and polish. Then add various uprights of any material (wood, metal, stone, PVC or whatever) to create a freestanding book shelf. Either perfectly align all shelves or offset them all for continuing the freeform look of the wood in your slab. Remember - NOTHING is trash till you put it IN the trash!
I will suggest to fill the top part with more epoxy to straight it up. And put some epoxy on the under part just to prevent it from curving again.
I would use the current curve as decorative feature
Put an offset/floating glass table top over it. You'd still be able to see the piece but also have a flat surface.
Genius idea.
This!
So why not just pour another clear layer to level it off . How mych would that cost
@@Cr1tical86 I personally think the wood side looks much better anyway...
I imagine the dust would be pretty terrible
Put it back into the mold and cure it at 60* Celsius in an oven for about 6 hours. The epoxy will get soft and it will bend in its original shape. After that process the table will have greater physical properties than a not cured one.
You should add metal rails to force it to keep it shape also
THIS
I doubt anything will stop the problem from reoccuring with fluctuations in humidity. It's genuinely difficult to appreciate just how much force wood can generate in expansion and compression. More than likely I believe it would just crack the cured epoxy instead of bending the piece.
@@M3rVsT4H You put the rails on the unit while it’s hot when you’re able to flex it back into position chances are you will have to refinish the top but it should work good when you get through it.
On a CNC, cut thin (wavey?) lines into the wood side (about 90% of the way through) Clamp it flat. Pour resin over the wood side. (like a small amount)
Idea for next attempt that will save money and time.
I believe the reason why the table began to bend is because you have the natural curvature of the log on the same direction.
You have placed each piece with the ring of the tree facing down. Meaning it will naturally want to curve again.
To fix. Place one peace facing down and the next facing up.
Pretty! I'd suggest slicing it in thin strips the length of the slab, lay the strips side by side and glue them together, reinforce, cut sides to desired rectangle shape, seal, add legs -M
“We wanted a unique piece.” Well.... you got it.
Smartest comment ever, seriously someone give a medal to this ape.
🤣🤣🤣
I had same problem with one I did years ago. Moisten the bottom with some water and put it upside down in sun and it will flatten. Then coat the bottom with clear epoxy.
Exactly what I was thinking!
Take .5 inch off bottom then add .5 epoxy on. Top of wet and sun unwarp
Bam they should pay you to supervise their work. I deal with warped wood all the time and water and clamps will do amazing things.
You are right
I’ve done the same thing as well. Should work.
Hi! out of curiosity, would it have been possible to sand the wood and steam press it back to straight? or humidify it to have it expand until the table was true again? then coat with epoxy?
Also I would like to know what you actually did with it?
Someone probably already mentioned, add moisture with wet rag and iorn to wood. Where it almost flat. Then seal with clear epoxy, probably will be best to build a very supportive base underneath to attach to help it stay flat
Doing that would crack or break the epoxy on the other side .
Say it was designed like that, and sell it for twice the price.
This is actually a smart idea.
This was my exact thought, and the truth is I bet someone would pay it to.
Exactly. I grew up in my dad's wood shop. One of his favourite sayings was. If you cannot hide something, make it a feature.
Yeah, modern ""art""
Right!!Maybe 69,Eminem,50Cent or some rapper could buy it for 5000 dollars or even more!!
Rip it into smaller sections between the boards, run the pieces through a planer to flatten, rejoin them and finish the wood side with clear epoxy layer to complete the table as intended.
Alternative wood side up and epoxy side up for next pour
This solution is very labor intensive, but I think would provide the best finished piece. It's basically building 2 tables and getting 1, but it would save the project with the closest finished product to the intended one.
This is the way. This is what I’ve had to do myself.
Or don't rejoin them & make some funky looking arty shelving!
why not just flatten the table with their cnc planer?\ it would be thinner but straight
or he could just pour more epoxy using a mold thats glued to the edges of the table
I would mount a glass on top of it with around 10cm space from glass to the epoxy finish. It would look nice if you ask me
There is so much I'd love to do w/tht. You've got plenty of beautiful options. But yes thank u fr,"What not to do's!"
Really good of you to upload a failed project and show both sides of the creative process.
My thoughts for re-purposing would be potentially using it as a wall-mounted sign. Perhaps for a local bar / restaraunt who could carve some slogan or name into the front or back of it.
As a retired furniture maker(18th century reproductions) I could see the problem when they loaded the wood into the form. NOTE: air dried finishes such as spirit varnishs, polyurethane, tung oil and the like will allow moisture through the film. It may take while but they will. Epoxy is an impermeable film. ( Polyester IS NOT by the way. Ask any boat owner.) Having only Oil on the under side was a massive mistake. I would have cast some epoxy sticks to support the wood then add the epoxy.
It looks like you wood had moisture in the wood and then it dried and shrunk causing the warp. Try milling out the back side a bit. Make some strong backs and clamp them to the top to add a little straightening pressure. Place in a sealed plastic enclosure with a pale of water for starters. Paint the wood with water from time to time. You need to slowly compress the epoxy as well as stretch the wood. If the clamps come loose add more pressure. Good luck.
No u couldn't
@Light Roast Coffee lmao
Yeah epoxy is a non convertible coating.
I dono if he gonna be able to mill that out.
Along with my other comment, I don’t fully understand how this happened still. Ive seen hundreds of table that only have epoxy on the top, with solid wood on the bottom. Nobody has reported this as an issue.
Right now I’m messing with an extra piece of pine I might install as a floating console table at the entrance of my house. I routed a river pattern out, but only about an inch deep. The bottom is solid wood. So, this is likely to happen if I filled the river in with epoxy?
it would be an awesome railing as a center piece looking over a living room!, also you could try longitude C channels, heat up the wood and resin and see if you can bend it enough for the C channels to be screw in and hold it in place
Build a coffee table with a framed top that would hold this art piece so that it can float inside the frame and then either have a glass piece sitting on top of the frame or have pegs in this top for the glass to sit on.
And then let the marble run back and forth so you can see it through the glass !
@@nicolasfredette8564 have a hole in the lowest point on one side so it can exit. Kinda like a reverse foosball table. I'd love doing that over and over again
Use the same idea from above (i.e. the floating table in a table), swap out the marble with a steel ball, and incorporate some magnets/ electromagnets to create perpetual motion with the steel ball where it rolls back and forth perpetually.
Great idea...Use black pegs or Glass pegs to level out the glass...:)
It's awesome that you show your fails. It's in our defeat that we learn the most. Most RUclips videos are so edited that it never showed a fail. Helps people learn. I would personally make it a bench.
that iridescent red is incredible. just curious... if you did this a second time around what would you have to do differently to have it remain flat?
Have you considered flipping the table top over and applying epoxy to the back side and running it through a surface planer on both sides until it returns to a plane shape?
Make about 5 Guitar Bodies from it, would be killer!
Everybody is getting coasters for Christmas the year
My thoughts exactly
At this point, I would install some stainless steel stilts, maybe 3" tall and have a glass top made for the piece. The "floating" glass would make the table surface flat and usable.
glass sucks
This is an excellent idea
That’s what I was going for an elevated clear top and finish it as a coffee table
sit it up on its side and it can become a nice bottom facia piece for the backside of a desk. Walking into an office and seeing this in front of the receptionist's desk would speak volumes about the caliber of the place.
Okay I am a year late and a few dollars short, but the 'mochine popped up.....
Interesting concept from the start, and I think a curved bench with matching Curved back could be very cool! ( I have no idea what happened as yet!...lol)
If I understand, correctly, if the back/bottom was also sealed in/with say, 3/8" clear and then the translucent then poured over the top and ALL allowed to cure, it might not have warped...?
Okay, OOPS! IT'S a fail, let's make that lemonade from it!!!! Lolol 😂😂
Turn it into a pub game : counter sink holes on one end of the table at different depths, the deepest being the lowest score and the shallowest being the high scores.
Yes! But you should basically hit the hole on your return! - so put the ball down, it rolls downhill, hits the peak, rolls back, and then on the return roll back toward the other side of the table, you need to hit the hole. :)
I was thinking about Chinese Checkers type of game before reading your comment. 😏
I've had this happen to me once on a pour, as it happens to me as well when I'm making samples on Masonite. This is what happens, because resins are Exothermic and create tons of heat, the will cause whatever wood in any fashion to absorb the heat, and warp during cure or during the cooling off period. With the wood strips having been placed in the box form, there wasn't anyway for the epoxy to coat the underside, which would help prevent some if not all of the warping. When I'm not coating the underside of my project tabletops, I will anchor 2 pieces of angle iron to the length of the table to stop further warping. Length of pieces TBD as needed for you likens.
Anyway, when my tabletop warped like this, I put it in the direct sunlight, warped side up or arched side up. Once it became a certain, which was well over 100 degrees, and took about 6 hrs to do so. It became pliable to a degree. I was able to site a ton of weight on it in a shaded cooler area and it pulled it down about 80%. So I then used the angle iron to pull it down even further. Plained it down again and walla.
If you a kiln, or big even commercial oven, that may help speed it up or control it better. Good luck.
Viola
@@carrieeloff2220 Voila
@@robertedmonds9396 lmfao I hate when I do that
I have a question here; Would it still wrap if the wood pieces were nailed with each other instead of hot glue/silicon onto the table mold?
Could you use this as a bar front? Could light be shown through it? Thanks for the educational video. Edison discovered a 1000 way on how not to create a light bulb first.
Mount a company logo on it with some nice LED's And wall mounts. I'd use it in a recording studio design.
I think stools might be a cool idea with these, as you could potentially get a set of 4 of them out of it, another interesting idea might be cutting it into straps and making a bench? Well either way have fun and good luck!
Chairs might be possible as well. Curved seat and back
Or they could have it be the front of a whole kinda shelf, aka tv stand. Kinda like the front of a home theater setup.
Why not a bench?
Thank you for being brave and sharing.
What would happen if instead of one big table you made it into smaller tables? Less room to warp. Smaller areas to support, a better foundation. Or here is another thought. Scrapes for new a table as small accents to that tables river? Or even a multi layer side table or coffee table. Does it have to be a table?
Or even shelving in general.
Or even turn it into unique chairs for another table. But test, obviously. You know the material. Even our biggest mistakes can be turned around for the Good and be made beautiful. I hope this helped you.
you need to leave it somewhere with higher humidity to flatten it then when it's flat cover the exposed wood with a clear epoxy to prevent it drying out and warping again. Either than or you could cut it into short sections square these pieces on a jointer/planer then glue it back together and again cover the whole thing in clear epoxy to stop it warping again.
The back wall of an entertainment system would look sick with the curve coming out 👍🏼
A bit late to ask but what type of finish did you use that you can apply on wood as well as epoxy as I’m doing a project for myself soon
Beautiful little bridge in the right setting!
Clear coat the bottom to level it.
Love the humility to show mistakes... It speaks a lot to your character! Good on you!
Some people might be fascinated by having a " marble rolling table"
Problem is the epoxy finish, which is the color interest of the table... would be out of view.
So from what im seeing could of this been prevented if there was a small layer of expoxy poured before placing the wood ?
Do you think that it would not have warped if the wood pieces were glued and clamped first? Thanks for sharing this video.
just cut it into longitudinal pieces, then flip it and add epoxy to the part where it is 100% wood and then level it so wood is almost in the middle. then you get a piece with wood in the middle that isn't wrapped
but that would make the cost of epoxy higher
@@alexmax612 increased costs is pretty much inevitable when it comes to fixing mistakes. One of the main reasons people don’t generally like making them.
@@alexmax612 cheaper than trashing the whole piece
@@birgittabirgersdatter8082 well said
Some great ideas here, I like the one with the glass on top with supports at the ends of the curve, but since you guys love your epoxy, what about pouring a layer of clear epoxy on top to flatten out the curve but leave the bottom curved, just like you intended it to be ;-)
The problem with that is any epoxy on the top will want to flow to the low point of the table.
Wich wouod be perfect to even it out lol
mucho material y aumentaría mucho su costo
@@steeghs1 Yeah... That's how gravity works. Either way, since the curve is so big, they would need a ton of epoxy and the middle would have to be a few inches deep just to cover the whole thing to the point where it's flat.
Not if it keeps warping.
You could use it as a beautiful bench! That’d be a gorgeous statement piece in an entryway, maybe with shoe storage under it? And the curvature of it would only add to its usefulness!
Love the video. You guys didn't fail. Cut it in half length wise ad some legs and just turn it into a couple of benches for indoor use or outdoor.
First video I’ve watched of yours and much respect to you to show that even the big leaguers make mistakes and are willing to own up to them, but with a CNC machine I’m sure you could make some really cool wall art
I'd love to have a curved table. Imagine spilling a drink and it just all goes to the middle of the table and not on the floor or a sitting person
epoxy side is supposed to be up so it would spill and not stay in the middle
Well, you would have a lot of drinks spilling since they would not have a flat surface to sit on.
The problem is you would kinda allways spill your drink haha
It would still go on the floor, it would just run to the middle then off the sides.
Can also pour a big pot of soup in it and the whole fam can have a community soup bowl lol.
How long was the curing time for this epoxy? If it's too quick it's bound to warp
Could you not gave put it under the sun as you were finishing it to warm up the epoxy some and to get it to un warp?
I agree with others on two things: thanks for posting a "fail" it's great to see process that ends with something less than what you expect. And second I would love a table like this. The curve could be really cool.
Why not build a base for it that corrects for the warp? Something like rails on either long side might be able to pull it back to shape and add some form to the piece
Epoxy hardens too much.. if you try to bend it back you'll crack the epoxy.. better off shifting plans and do something else..
You can also make a dozen cuts across the table and inlay a red oak or red maple strip to flatten the top and give it a very unique look
Remove the finish on the 100% wood side, bath it in water and then put some weight on.
The water filled wood should take the new shape.
Then re finish the all wood side with a clear epoxy to balance it out so that it doesn't warp again but still retains the look.
Isn't it going to warp back the same when it dries out? Or are you suggesting to seal the water in with the epoxy finish? I'm not a woodworker, but that doesn't sound right
@@sourcererseven3858
Wood fibers are very elastic, that's how we made furniture and musical instruments.
I'm in no way an expert, and probably it depends on the kind of wood and the treatment, but I think you can force it in a specific shape.
The resin is between the wood pieces, filling the gap between them, and filling holes in the wood itself. The resin, unlike the wood, is not flexible and will not absorb moisture now that it has fully cured. Unfortunately they would never be able to straighten this piece without breaking or cutting the resin.
@@cartouchator
According to the sources I can find, epoxy resin should be flexible enough.
Thanks so much to show us this.
The colour looks amazing
Moisten the bottom, it will straighten. Shoot on cnc 2-3 mm. Fill with epoxy.
That or leave as is for beer pong table.
Put it in the sun to slowly heat the epoxy, with a little weight on the ends, after it flattens out bring it back inside, and sink some steel bars in channels going length-wise and seal the bottom with epoxy.
My thoughts exactly
Same thought
I was thinking the same but i would put a length of cornersteel in. This is a verry tough. You can even use it te straigten it. I used this on my oak table and with just turning the bolts the table straigtent out. And thats al lot of fors.
Sorry for mij my english ;)
I am sure you've done something with it by now but I had a few ideas:
1. Slice the whole thing length wise, add some metal supports. (Securing it to metal from underneath should take out the curve.) Add a live edge river back with the same red epoxy for a couple awesome entryway benches.
2. Epoxy finish the other side so it won't warp any further. Cut it into smaller end table or coffee table sized sections. Joint/plane them off flat. Build bases and done.
3. Build a headboard out of it and make a matching shorter footboard.
Hope it helps. If not on this one hope it gives you ideas for others that don't meet QC. I screwed up some major projects myself and had to find ways to make it work.
I can use this table to prepare curved pieces (gluing,pressing ,curved edge preparation etc).In auto interior design this thing is useful
Do another in a coordinating color, cut them back into strips and lay them back in molds other way down in herringbone pattern, coat the other side of the wood with clear epoxy.
Woah. This is the one they should do.
Agreed this is the best idea I've seen so far to salvage it
Yeah! Treat it like an endgrain cutting board project!
Nice idea. They wouldn't even have to cut completely through, just a series of cuts 4/5th of the way through from the wood side. That would allow them to put it back in the form epoxy side down, clamp ends down so it's flat, then backfill with epoxy.
Maybe just glass over the top. The curve could be like a suspension bridge.
Dig this idea. Could even have some supports/legs coming up through the top to help support the glass towards the middle.
Not a good plan
Only thing is the epoxy would be on the bottom side...
@@bryanedwards7623 I was actually envisioning the opposite effect. Have the supports on ends, epoxy side up. Like an old bridge across a small creek.
With a mid height shelf that looks as though it is a small creek (in epoxy of course)
Nice wall hanger art piece
It would be great for a sailboat hatch, at the entrance of the cabin, the one that slides back. Those have to have a curved top so the rain runs off it. It might be a little wide but could be cut down to size, or used on a big sailboat, which would need cutting down.
If you were able to cut it the into two sheets with a straight boundary, theoretically you could the glue is back together with the top on the bottom to make a flat surface. It might even have a really cool aesthetic from the process after cleaning up the likely misaligned edges with some more trimming.
this is what i was thinking about
I would make a bar table with this as the base. The curve can be left as is.
or this as the vertical front to a bar would look cool too
@@kanedNunable that is what I meant by making it the base. Turn the table onto one of the long sides and use it as the base.
agreed, that would look wicked cool.
Thinking the same thing! Great idea
Wall art. It's stunning 😍
Honestly that warp table would be a very awesome artistic piece with proper supports and some really cool angled legs under it and then you just design like a clear coat to like trap it in its current warped position
As for ideas on what to do with it, my initial reaction was that it sort of looked like a bed, or one of those beach chairs that you can lay upon.
Maybe you can convert it into a bench or chair for outdoors.
Maybe even divide it into multiple sections to make multiple chair seats.
As from the looks of it the warp looks incredibly even.
Looks so good I would put that on my wall as art work.
You could make an awesome indoor gate with it, to stop toddlers and dogs from going into some area where you don't want.
I too, think that the solution to a flat table is to increase the moisture content of the underside. I would resort to steam and not a water bath. Once it is relatively flat, machine a couple of dove tail slots and finish it with an epoxy finish(protecting the slots) then add the rails on the underside to hold it in position. They should be 3" wide vertically and can be reduced at a later date when the moisture release settles. Just sayin' -- that's how I would attempt to salvage it.
I believe that problem is in that you didn't glued all those wood planks together before you poured epoxy resin on top . You could pour epoxy on the bottom part , after that make a mould for the top and pour epoxy resin to flatten the surface . Table will be thicker than you wanted originally but still useable and your next wideo will be "How I saved 1.000 USD" :)
Exactly! When I saw they use silicone instead of wood glue in the beginning, I immediately thought: there is your problem...
Some people just like to take shortcuts I guess...
I don't think this is a relevant issue, the resin will serve as the binder instead of PVA and epoxy is usually a much stronger adhesive
@@kestekrafts1580 1 silicone is flexible when it dries out, 2 if it was glued properly, wood would act as a single solid piece. The way they did it left it with too much air. It’s physics mate. Not clamping it properly made it even worse.
@@yafmaverick the silicone plays no role in gluing, it just temporarily holds it in place for the pour, the resin will seep between the gaps and act as a glue, from my experience most epoxy resins will seep through cracks that are too tight for water to get through (when still fresh of course)
No it has to do with the water the wood takes out of the air. Same with veneer
Always do both sides otherwise it'll warp...
I feel like the table is still totally usable, just as more of a decorate table, rather than functional.
Yes, I would just put glass on it.
@Nobody Pictures on your wall are a waste of space too. As is paint. Or a vase of flowers. Or plants in general. Or literally anything else that isn't functional.
With the bow in it you could cut some width-wise channels in it from the back (wood side) to allow light to shine through the epoxy on the front. Then connect some lighting to the back and to it into a wall art piece. The bow and the channels would allow the light to shine out and create a pretty cool effect with the epoxy and would imho. Regardless, thanks for sharing and discussing your lessons learned.
I'm curious was the wood DRY enough? because I've heard if it has moisture it will bend
Rip it into 1" to 2" inch strips, flip every other one, then pour it again, in maybe clear.
...and double the amount (or more) of resin already used.
Yeah make it a $2,000 mistake
The "wood-side" is a great background of a curved tv🙌
Yup, i had the same thought
Then it would be the wrong way
i will cut that table into smaller pieces and make another disign with it !!love the colour man !!
You could likely save at least.5” and use it as an inset for another piece. Otherwise, the radius might match a curved monitor for a computer desktop backing.
It would look amazing suspended shelving for books. Or as a headboard for a bed. Maybe a table for children to play with wheeled toys. There are tons of uses.
Probably too late to help, but this would make a GORGEOUS table to display the right bonsai trees.
Is there no way to re-heat the central area, then press the table down until the table fully cures again?
Seams like it would make either a good headboard for a bed or a cool wall art piece if you can attach some heavy duty hanging brackets to it.