TIPS For Long Term Classic Car Storage Episode 184 Autorestomod
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2014
- This week we’re in Ocala, Florida to chat about best ideas for long tern classic car storage with Larry Galyean, the man that maintains the National Parts Depot museum’s fleet of 200 cars-all of which are, theoretically drivable.
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Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com
Sponsor:
www.nationalpartsdepot.com
Parts:
www.amazon.com/
Dry Packs 20105800 112gm 4-Pack Silica Gel Desiccant Packet, 5 by 3.25-Inch
carcapsule.com/
Various styles available.
Tools:
Standard tools 
Хобби
Great video ! I live in Canada, so I'm preparing my car for a 6 month long storage, and this video will be very useful, thank you :-)
I believe what he said about Fords being more prone to valves sticking from non-use, and bending push rods as a consequence. Happened to two old FoMoCo cars I have, one from the '50's and one from the '60's. The old Chrysler, Plymouth and Oldsmobile I had never did that. I will say that Marvel Mystery Oil through the gas seemed to cure the problem and I haven't had that issue in many years. MMO can also help reduce the need for a lead additive in an old engine, though some folks say that lead add. may not be necessary anyway. I don't put MMO in in every tank of gas...only a few times a year. Driving the car at least a few hundred miles every year is also a big help.
i have a vehicle that's been in storage for almost 30 years, what's the first thing i should do before attempting to start it?
One pointer on those silica absorbent bags is They need to be removed from the vehicle every 30 days and allowed to dry or they will eventually saturate and start to mildew themselves. How do I know this? I had a customer who put a half dozen large ones (the size of a stuffed tube sock) in his car for winter storage here in Ct and come spring they had sucked up so much moisture that the entire interior looked like a cotton field!
Good point!
Good tips, that moth ball smell... WHEW! lol
LOL we now know why everybody built streetrods out of the '40's cars...to get rid of that mothball smell....
I want his job!
When I get my '65 Falcon going l intend using non-ethanol fuel in it. Will the rare use of ethanol fuel cause problems for the carborator?
No. Should be fine, and you can add a GOOD fuel stabilizer to it when you do to further mitigate any issues.
what are your thoughts on the car capsules? for storage
They work very well.
I can't believe an "expert" would agree that starting the car and running it for a little while every month is a good suggestion! Those of us who store our cars half the year due to snow, know that's about the worst thing possible. Unless the car is actually driven under load, it never warms up enough to boil moisture and contaminates out of the oil. Compounding this, the short runtime tends to force those things into the oil. It's not at all unusual to find rust in the oil pans of vehicles treated like this. And if you have one of those crazy piston engines, rust will end up under the valve covers as well. If you are going to store a car, then STORE IT. Fog the cylinders and prep it properly. Running the vehicle is not storage.
U can run them just fine , just let them get to operating temperature , 20 min is good
@@totljag1 That is not true, Your exhaust system will fill with condensation but will not get hot enough to evaporate it just by idling for 20 minutes! Stop spreading false information, I’ve been a Mechanic for over 27 years and I guarantee that you are wrong, I have seen countless exhaust systems rotted from the inside out on customers vehicles that only get driven a few miles each day to work and back!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 don’t be a freak , run it for 20 min before u shut down press on brake and clutch 20 x and hold throttle At 2000 rpm for 2 min u be fine , I been doing this for 35 years and all my cars are mint !
For those living in Florida who need to store their cars while away for long periods of time:
I am a 25 year old from NE Florida with a completely clean driving record and currently employed by a local county sheriff's office. I also have extensive experience with classic cars, working on cars like a 1947 Cadillac limo and currently restoring a 1972 MGB. I would be happy to drive to your storage facility, prep your car, and take it for a short drive to keep it fully functioning for no more than the cost of getting to your location. I also have access to ethanol free fuel! If you would like more info, feel free to contact me!
Ehhhh...
So I just bought a barn find.. 1957 Bel Air in mint condition that I got for only $3000 I’m 19 and I can not afford to insure the car. I just want to set it in my pole barn.. maybe lay a concrete pad (because I know gravel holds moisture that can rust the underside of the car) The car already smells like mice inside.. break lines already need to be replaced.. carb already needs to be cleaned and fuel tank is empty.. for us that are not able to drive the car I’d like to know what to do. Maybe some of y’all in the comments can help me out. I want to store the car for years. I got it for $3000 the thing is worth $30000 and I want to just keep it till it’s with even more and hopefully some day sell it to put my kids through school. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you
Contact Heacock Insurance heacockclassic.com. You really DO need to have the car insured. It isn't as bad at regular insurance and you can get coverage for how ever the car is being used.
Great stuff, wish I could find info like this for my german 'modern classic' cars, but most of it applies just the same - just with more fuel injection related issues - making the fuel problem worse because fuel injection systems are more sensitive than carborators.
+Larry Velez yeah, though the closed nature of some of these systems makes it easier than a carb too unless you are storing it super long term. We may revisit this for EFI in the future. Thanks for the kind words.
Actually feel injection is not more sensitive than carburetors, Have you ever rebuilt a carburetor and noticed how small and how many passages there are! It is much easier to clog a carburetor with bad fuel than it is fuel injection! But either way the fix is very simple! I live on the East Coast of the United States, Which means my boat sits on the trailer for 8 months out of the year! My boat has a GM 4.3L V6 with a Rochester Quadra jet and my fuel tank holds 140 gallons of fuel, Before storing my boat for the winter I usually fill my fuel tank all the way with ethanol free fuel but sometimes I have to use fuel with ethanol! If I happen to get ethanol free fuel then all I do is add fuel stabilizer to my tank before filling, If I have to use fuel with ethanol then I will use an additive for the ethanol along with fuel stabilizer before filling! Then when I get the vote home I will do all my maintenance while I let the engine run for about 20- 30 minutes making sure that the new treated fuel is circulated throughout all fuel lines, filters, fuel pump and carburetor! Then I will spray fogging oil into the engine through the carburetor until the engine stalls, Then I remove all my spark plugs and spray fogging oil into all cylinders! I have never had an issue starting my boat in the spring, The engine will usually fire up after cranking the engine for about 15 seconds on the third try! I have been doing this for the past 27 years and my engine is still like brand new! The reason for filling my fuel tank all the way is to prevent moisture from accumulating in the fuel tank due to temperature fluctuations throughout the winter! About 10 years ago I needed exhaust manifolds for my boat but they were on back order so my boat actually ended up sitting for three years! I was tired of waiting so I found a company called Hi-Tek in Australia that made direct replacement headers, So after sitting for 3 years I installed the headers and once again my engine fired up and idled and ran perfectly after a few minutes! Ethanol fuel is extremely bad for older vehicles due to the fuel system not being compatible with the alcohol in the fuel, I actually had to re-jet my carburetor and install an accelerator pump that was resistant to ethanol fuel! Not to mention I had to install a fuel pressure regulator to lower my fuel pressure a couple pounds because older carbureted engines do not like ethanol fuel! Everything I have said is 100% true and has been proven over and over again, Not to mention I have been a Mechanic for over 27 years! Here is a video explaining the problem with ethanol fuel! ruclips.net/video/wdGJwFpQBiI/видео.html&feature=share
I'm thinking about this for my Hellcat, long term storage, I seldom drive it as I bought a new Tesla S...the Hellcat has got only 1500 miles on it, I don't want to sell it and its in showroom condition, this video didn't help much...I'm thinking there is no way around driving it but want to keep miles off it. I will check with dodge on how to do this long term, if its not possible I probably will just sell it.
whenever i know i'm not going to use my 1975 Ford Capri for a while ( at least a few months ) i will drain the motor oil , fill the gas tank and wash , wax the car and disconnect the battery when i take i use it again i just put fresh motor oil in it and that's it really, i wouldn't reccomend running the car for a while from time to time unless the engine gets to operating temperature for a while, running the engine for short periods of time creates a ton of carbon and forms acids in the oil
How about permanently storing a car?
Completely drain it of all fluids.
Damn!!!! Larry you one lucky some bitch!!!! Is vinnie on another black op? Should've taken him with you. If i could have your jobs I don't know who Id bump off. Another great vid with loads of information.
I used to own airplanes and yes, avgas. If you can't get it use Premium but NEVER store with cheap Regular.. Never.
On and On and On and On man are these guys slow
But we're pretty.