My 2012 CR-V is at the Honda dealer right now for this repair. Wish I had come here first, bc they had a hard time getting it to replicate the noise! After watching your video, I understand why it's costing quite a bit. Thank you.
@@kirkandkaylaglaser2922 I had to remove all the bearing caps and put a bunch of worn towels on a bench. I had someone hold the 23mm wrench with a cheater bar so it's easy for them to hold while I used the impact gun
Great info and thanks for the sound the engine made I have a Wrx that is making the same noise and the dealership won’t warranty my clients vehicle after we found the same issues with his car. This vid made me remember when you first started making vids they were full of info and great tips which for a person like me who at the time had 0 knowledge of cars had just begun as the advisor at my dads shop after the previous one left in a hurry helped a lot. The one thing I remember you had said back then was that if someone wanted to be in the top 50% of techs all they needed to do was simply read the repair manual before doing the job. This has been not only true but countless times been the reason I was able to help my guys in a repair that frustrating them. This has also allowed for myself to find success in learning to do programming as it is very specific, but at the end it’s just following directions. Thanks for your efforts Keep it up man glad to see you are doing well take care
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejo I just did this chang-out myself, plus vtc solenoid and chain tensioner. BUT…. When I turn the engine by hand, I get a clicking coming from the timing chain just before TDC on #1 cylinder. Watching the tensioner, the little lock arm moves when the noise happens and also the timing chain between the two cam sprockets develops a slight amount of slack and then slaps up against the to top chain guide/pad…. Is this normal? Have you seen this before on your jobs? Thanks for your time.
Great video and information. FYI, you can remove the vtc without removing the cam. Follow these instructions but knock the cam bolt loose and pull the vtc off the end of the cam
Buddy this is such a high quality video. Your step by step explanation was amazing. I hope you and your business have even more success in 2021. Keep at it bro
Your video covered everything that I needed to feel confident in doing this on my CRV. I enjoyed the video very much and the only thing that you might be able to improve on is the lighting. I can also tell that you take pride in your work and give the customers a great quality job without the worries of whether it was done correctly. Watching your video would make me also feel confident to bring my vehicles to you for repair. You are a great mechanic that I would definitely trust. Do you have any videos on oil leak repairs that aren't apparent on a 2017 Honda CRV?
I’ve had several customers come in with this noise but they usually don’t want to fix it due to the price. One was a 2012 CRV with as low as 30k miles, so I sent her to the dealer for warranty repair. We’re going to be doing this job Monday so it helps a lot to see a human do it vs the TSB. Thanks!
As far as I have read, people continue to drive with no problems other than the noise. I’m sure at one point or another after long enough the timing chain can jump some teeth. If you jump enough teeth you can bend some valves. I really don’t think it’s that expensive considering it should be roughly $900-$1500 depending where you go.
Thanks for the video. I have the confidence to do this myself. I have a 2012 CRV that I purchased new. It’s been doing the start up noise for about 6 months. Only during the winter months. If it gets worse I will replace the VTC actuator, but I will replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner as well. I heard that the noise does not really affect anything. I also heard that the noise can stretch your timing chain little by little once that happens it will throw a engine code. Camshaft position sensor code I believe. Some people been living with the start up noise for years and they are fine... others Changed the VTC actuator and noise came back...
Hello, so this noise is just the noise that does not affect the engine? Would you recommend that I wait for the replacement work till the check engine comes on? Or should I replace it? My mechanic would charge me $800 for that job. Thank you
@@dakotap1488 the vtc actuator has internal wear the part that rest on chain is still ok, also if it's at that point of failure other components will show fail point I can send you the service bulletin about the actuator if u want peace of mind
Great video with all the important points highlighted. I looked at some other videos and yours if by far the best. I just completed this on my 2012 CR-V with 154K miles and went exactly as planned. I took it slow and everything went back together well but I decided not to adjust the valves for now since selling and no detectable noise. I have a local shop give me a rough quote of $2.5K which is crazy since the sprocket cost me about $100.
At about the 9:52 mark you mentioned that the side marks on the VTC actuator and the exhaust sprocket were not perfectly aligned, so you turned the crankshaft slightly until they were. Does this not throw the number 1 piston off of top dead center? If so, do two of the three have to line up (Arrows and side marks on actuator) as opposed to crankshaft? Please advise. Thank You.
Had the VTech actuator, timing chain, and tensioner replaced by a good mechanic on a 2013 CRV with 150k miles. Same cold startup rattle has returned after 1.5 years/30k additional miles. Synthetic 5k oil and filter changes every 5k miles. Is another $1000 job (2hrs labor) needed every 30k miles?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the loosening sequence of the cam caps be the opposite of the tightening? That is, start from the outside and work your way towards the middle? Thanks for the video, doing this job on my 2014 soon to get it ready to sell.
Appreciate the video. I think once you have done your first one and build your confidence, not such a hard job. I found it much easier to work with once I took out the tensioner. It gave me a ton of room to fine tune the alignment of the cams.
Great work. You are very conscientious about your work. That's a sign that you care about what you are doing, and making sure it's done right the first time. 👍🏻
Hi my friend l like the video l like the mechanic job l learning about the new technology this is Avery good video thank you for teaching congratulations 😅
Cool video, next time, just take the timing cover off. Its not worth the chain moving a tooth. Stock motors dont have a timing guide for the bottom crank pulley and the chain moves very easily over the teeth; take it from someone that has done this thousands of times at this point. Also, you dont have to keep the VTC unlocked, there is a pin tht centers the fixed portion of the gear.
@@Greg18m7 Nah no flat rates over here. Gotta make sure were paid by the book. Cant afford to make a mistake, my reputation is everything. My guys are paid to get it done the safest way possible. We are a slower shop, keeping the complaints at a minimum and not having to see the same car for FREE labor is always worth it. BTW it doesnt take too much longer to remove the timing cover. Its not like a Nissan 2.5 LMAO -if you know you know.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2015 Dream 2.4. The actuator is on the other side. Do I still have to remove the cam or do I just replace it while on the cam? (That’s what I’m did) Might a stupid question but I did mine earlier and the timing was off. When I started it, it sound like it had an after market cam. A little frustrated. I have till tomorrow to get it running for Monday. Any help will be appreciated. Thnx
Check you are using 0w30 oil before spending time and money, i found out with 5w30 oil change the noise started and got worst with 10w30 used in next change. This made me think cold start oil thickness might be the problem, and it was. I canged to 0w20 (not very hot down here) and it stopped making noises for two weeks now.
So, is it super bad that i was able to unlock mine simply by turning it? im in the midle of amajor teardown and inspection of my timing system because of a drivability issue, and i remember just one time thath mine made the cold start grinding noise many months ago. Perhaps my lock pin is rounded and therefor not locking when its suppposed to. My analysis of it with my eyes and brain suggests that the lock is there to stop it rotating until there is oil pressure, so as to stop the cold start rattle and also to stop it form moving out of time while there is no oil pressure to hold it in time. I was undoing the little torx bolts to inspect it, (without the chain) and it just slipped, then i realised i could lock it again by turning it back, thne give it a hit with my palm and i could unlock it. Now im wondering if this is happening randomly causing my stuttering at idle, and maybe even the reason for my lack of power and code p0341, which i thought was a stretched chain.
rr v/c loosen gear bolts, I find remove and replace tensioner ( easily damaged if not retracted properly)and balancer. rr crk seal and mark links paint. shove rag under chain at crk sprocket so chain doesn't jump. No need to remove cam shaft
Hello ! Thanks for your usefull video. Maybe "wrong marks" on crankshaft pulley indicate the moment you can secure the tensioner using the pin or am I wrong ?
if by accident the pin on the tensioner fell off.....as long as you mark down the chain on exhaust sprocket and vtc actuator at TDC...remove the chain tentioner. while outside, lift the lock.push the tensioner in then put the lock pin on the hole and put tensioner back.
do believe your supposed to remove the cam cap bolts in reverse sequence of the original sequence. I see you show to remove them from the inside out it should be opposite, outside working your war to the middle?
Thank you for the great video. I watched as my 2014 CRV has the same noise when cold start since last few months. Now I have check engine light and couple of other light too like traction & steering so I took it too auto parts store for a quick scan and I have P0341 code for Camshaft position sensor but today I took it too Honda dealer for second opinion and I am told that I need VTC Actuator, tensioner, guide and timing chain but not camshaft sensors. Now I am really confused if I should just replace position sensor as per my scan or should I replace everything asked by dealer which is almost CAD $1500. Let me know if anyone has any suggestion. Thank you!
Thanks for the info. Just about your lighting - please just go get yourself some LED tubes and just hang the whole assembly over the work area for some even, soft and very bright lighting. Will improve the video quality no end.
I have the exact same issue on my 2012 Crv and it's been almost 10 years. Didn't notice anything worse, is it bad if i don't fix it or should get it done?
Besides the noise it was making what are the other symptoms? This would be my last part that could be causing the code. I have replaced…..Oem timing chain, new tensioners, new guides, new vtc solenoid, new vtech solenoid, new cam position sensors on both both exhaust and intake. Crv runs fine at high speeds but stutters on build up rpm’s. Code P0341 2002 crv
I want to start a career as an auto mechanic but i dont know where to start. I dont want to be in debt for the rest of my life but i also dont want to pay for some school that wont get me proper training. Do you have any advice on where i should start looking. I have been working on family cars my whole life, would i be able to use that as experience?
Shon Glasgow go to any auto repair shop and ask them for a job. Have your resume ready and your pitch. “Hi, I’m ready to work and be as helpful as possible. I’ll do what ever it takes to work with you. What can I do to get a job here.” Say it with confidence. Just go and ask for jobs my man. Start off doing basic stuff and get in the door, once you do that, come and ask me what to do next.
That sounds very similar to what my 2014 CR-V has started doing. I have 98,000 miles on it. I hope this isn't the problem. I was thinking a fan issue. It rattles on start up and initial acceleration when first running. 😒
My Honda 2.4 2013 CRV just started making that noise when I started up in the morning, the dealership where I bought it said it’s not sending a code so we can’t fix it. Is it supposed to send the code can you tell me please thank you
I have a crv 2013 just purchase it and noticed the sound next day... because it only comes up when the car is cold. i took to a mechanic and there was a loose screw that couldn't get tightened so he said ok lets replace the pulley and tensioner with original ones, that was were the screw was. so that's done. I pick the car go home next day turn on the car... there it goes still a rattling sound. so I took to another mech and we realized it was inside the motor maybe the chain or the actuator but he said the car has no lights on and runs perfectly so it was not an emergency. what could happen if I leave this on ? could this damage the engine later on? how do I know a mechanic has experience doing this repairing?
Nice Job.. great video... having a similar issue with a 1-2 second grinding noise on cold start. this video convinced me this job is way over my head to do.. :D
@@midwestfarm757 - for me it was the CVT actuator. Apparently a common problem with these engines. Only way to fix is have it replaced. You need to open the engine, Secure then timing belt and remove the engine shaft... Too much for a DIY mechanic like me.
@@midwestfarm757 - the dealership said they replaced it with an upgraded part. Don't know for sure... Not much you can do if the dealer approved fix doesn't resolve it. Me taking it apart on my own isn't gonna fix it...
Can it cause damage (or bad performance, or...?) if the VTC Actuator is not replaced? We have a 200K+ miles 2011 CRV that has this problem (noisy rattle when it starts). I've assumed it is not worth it on a car of this age. It is using some oil already, and accelleration is sluggish at lower RPM (...possibly due to lagging timing from bad VTC Actuator?...or not?)
The only thing I’d be worried about is timing jumping.. if it jumps enough it can cause some damage, but if it doesn’t damage anything you’ll at least get a p0012 fault code indicating incorrect timing of the intake camshaft. I’ve yet to see this happen on many cars that have this exact same rattle though, and many of our customers with Toyotas have the same noise for the same exact dumb reason. I personally would fix it considering it’s accessible without removing the chain and the part is $300 or so.
And yes, bad performance for sure. Your hesitation at acceleration may or may not be related to this depending upon your habit of acceleration. If you are an aggressive driver and hit high enough RPMs from a stop, then sure lol however you may be experiencing delay if you’ve yet to service your transmission. No matter what the dealer says, have your transmission fluid exchanged every 50k miles. If you’ve never had it serviced before, it’s risky to do at your mileage because you may experience worsening of symptoms. Start with this VTC actuator considering it’s a definitive problem if you have this same rattle at cold start-up.
i own 09 crv and have same rattle noise but its all the time not only on cool start , if its the VTC Actuator is bad its is possible that does the same sound all the time or its just on cool start up?
@@markusdaniels251 I just picked up an accord at auction with the noise. The previous owner had the chain replaced in a shop and its still got the noise.
Agree. No you dont. Didn’t-touch rocker settings Also if you do adjust the valves on these. Be careful of RUclips demonstrations. Have seen wrong advice about TDC and 180 out sequences. Can bend valves and strike pistons
Just trying to figure out why it has to be unlocked if you lock it anyways before you put the cam back in. Does anyone know the reason behind this?I mean they actually say to unlock it with air pressure if it gets locked on accident before it is torqued,but I can't figure out why.
The rattling is the actuator bouncing around until the oil flow quiets it down. My 08 was doing it when I got it 3 years ago. I went to do the VTC today, and my harmonic balancer mark is a few mm's off when the cams are showing TDC. Prolonged "rattling" slowly stretches the chain. I just orders a chain, guides, hydraulic tensioner from Honda this evening. No point in changing the VTC and leaving the crank timing retarded as much as it is. I felt it getting sluggish these past few months.
Im going to do this on a friends car but can anyone explain what the point of removing the cam is? Cant you just hold the cam while its in the car, unbolt, put new phaser on in unlocked position, torque it down, then lock it, while its in the car the whole time? I cant find any good reason to remove the cam. 🤔
I forget why to be honest. But youll have to remove it brother. Try not to but ehhh, what do I know. I just repair cars every day for 14 years and I followed the manufacturer repair procedure for this which they want you to do this job as fast as possible and if it was easier to remove just the cams they would have said so but what do I know.
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejo i work on cars for a living too but not necessarily as knowledgeable as some of the veteran techs, which is also the reason why I'm looking up info online. I've been working on cars for less than half the years you have been. Like, any other car that I had to replace a phaser or take off sprockets to replace cam seals, I've done it with the cam in the car. I also saw the repair procedure online but was just scratching my head on why the the cam removal was necessary. Anyways thanks for the info, I mean its only gonna take 10-20 more mins to pull and install the cam anyways.
Im very tempted to do this. I accidentally locked a brand new vtc. I really dont feel like unbolting both camshafts and remove one to unlock it. I think ima just give it a shot and hope i dont break it. Ill report back with results. Remind me if i dont
You don’t even need to do all that!! Only should have to take off valve cover. Just gotta take out vtc spring and stretch it!! It’s inside that cam gear take off the hex screws and slowly pull apart. Normal honda issue alot of videos on it.
@@Walter_Aguirre he never replied. But I had bought my CRV at Carmax and luckily it was still under warranty so they fixed it no cost. sorry couldnt help but i hear its about a $900-1500 job. Its really a shame Honda never did a recall on this issue especially knowing this is a problem.
My 2012 CR-V is at the Honda dealer right now for this repair. Wish I had come here first, bc they had a hard time getting it to replicate the noise! After watching your video, I understand why it's costing quite a bit. Thank you.
The dealer is very familiar with the VTC issue.
Excuse me how much does IT cost to replace IT?
Don’t need to take the cam out, just remove exhaust side gear and replace vtc gear and reinstall gears and timing chain.
Ive seen that method but how do you remove that stubborn vtc actuator bolt. The exhaust side gear came loose easy though...
To remove actuator bolt use 15/16 or 23 mm wrench on camshaft to hold it back. Approximately at halfway length of cam. It’s built for it
@@kirkandkaylaglaser2922 I had to remove all the bearing caps and put a bunch of worn towels on a bench. I had someone hold the 23mm wrench with a cheater bar so it's easy for them to hold while I used the impact gun
@@trippin8585loosen the actuator bolt and hold the intake cam with open wrench while timing chain is still in place.
Do u i need to remove the timing chain tensioner when replacing the VTC gear?
Great info and thanks for the sound the engine made I have a Wrx that is making the same noise and the dealership won’t warranty my clients vehicle after we found the same issues with his car. This vid made me remember when you first started making vids they were full of info and great tips which for a person like me who at the time had 0 knowledge of cars had just begun as the advisor at my dads shop after the previous one left in a hurry helped a lot. The one thing I remember you had said back then was that if someone wanted to be in the top 50% of techs all they needed to do was simply read the repair manual before doing the job. This has been not only true but countless times been the reason I was able to help my guys in a repair that frustrating them. This has also allowed for myself to find success in learning to do programming as it is very specific, but at the end it’s just following directions. Thanks for your efforts Keep it up man glad to see you are doing well take care
zackky11 thanks brother. We’re back in that same energy. Thanks for watching G.
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejo I just did this chang-out myself, plus vtc solenoid and chain tensioner. BUT…. When I turn the engine by hand, I get a clicking coming from the timing chain just before TDC on #1 cylinder. Watching the tensioner, the little lock arm moves when the noise happens and also the timing chain between the two cam sprockets develops a slight amount of slack and then slaps up against the to top chain guide/pad…. Is this normal? Have you seen this before on your jobs? Thanks for your time.
Great video and information. FYI, you can remove the vtc without removing the cam. Follow these instructions but knock the cam bolt loose and pull the vtc off the end of the cam
Buddy this is such a high quality video. Your step by step explanation was amazing. I hope you and your business have even more success in 2021. Keep at it bro
Hands down this is the best explanation video on this.
I’m ready to get at it.
Then one day rebuild my coyote 5.0
Timing on that is super crazy
Your video covered everything that I needed to feel confident in doing this on my CRV. I enjoyed the video very much and the only thing that you might be able to improve on is the lighting. I can also tell that you take pride in your work and give the customers a great quality job without the worries of whether it was done correctly. Watching your video would make me also feel confident to bring my vehicles to you for repair. You are a great mechanic that I would definitely trust. Do you have any videos on oil leak repairs that aren't apparent on a 2017 Honda CRV?
I’ve had several customers come in with this noise but they usually don’t want to fix it due to the price. One was a 2012 CRV with as low as 30k miles, so I sent her to the dealer for warranty repair. We’re going to be doing this job Monday so it helps a lot to see a human do it vs the TSB. Thanks!
What happens if u don’t replace it?
As far as I have read, people continue to drive with no problems other than the noise. I’m sure at one point or another after long enough the timing chain can jump some teeth. If you jump enough teeth you can bend some valves. I really don’t think it’s that expensive considering it should be roughly $900-$1500 depending where you go.
@@justmy2abelincolns272 oh wow ok thanks for the heads up
Thanks for the video. I have the confidence to do this myself. I have a 2012 CRV that I purchased new. It’s been doing the start up noise for about 6 months. Only during the winter months. If it gets worse I will replace the VTC actuator, but I will replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner as well. I heard that the noise does not really affect anything. I also heard that the noise can stretch your timing chain little by little once that happens it will throw a engine code. Camshaft position sensor code I believe. Some people been living with the start up noise for years and they are fine... others Changed the VTC actuator and noise came back...
Hello, so this noise is just the noise that does not affect the engine? Would you recommend that I wait for the replacement work till the check engine comes on? Or should I replace it? My mechanic would charge me $800 for that job. Thank you
@@zivilewatkis2928 does that include parts and labor, or just labor?
@@zivilewatkis2928 it's just noise doesn't effect
@@manitas1818 it causes strain on the timing chain tensioner and will lead to failur in the future.
@@dakotap1488 the vtc actuator has internal wear the part that rest on chain is still ok, also if it's at that point of failure other components will show fail point I can send you the service bulletin about the actuator if u want peace of mind
Great video with all the important points highlighted. I looked at some other videos and yours if by far the best. I just completed this on my 2012 CR-V with 154K miles and went exactly as planned. I took it slow and everything went back together well but I decided not to adjust the valves for now since selling and no detectable noise. I have a local shop give me a rough quote of $2.5K which is crazy since the sprocket cost me about $100.
Dude you are a professional tech, this was real informative.
At about the 9:52 mark you mentioned that the side marks on the VTC actuator and the exhaust sprocket were not perfectly aligned, so you turned the crankshaft slightly until they were. Does this not throw the number 1 piston off of top dead center? If so, do two of the three have to line up (Arrows and side marks on actuator) as opposed to crankshaft? Please advise. Thank You.
flood mode start is a good idea to get oil on that tensioner before starting its like a pre lube . good work young man .
Had the VTech actuator, timing chain, and tensioner replaced by a good mechanic on a 2013 CRV with 150k miles. Same cold startup rattle has returned after 1.5 years/30k additional miles. Synthetic 5k oil and filter changes every 5k miles. Is another $1000 job (2hrs labor) needed every 30k miles?
One of the best how to videos ive seen!
Hey man I accidently locked the vtc during install and torqued it down. Did I ruin my vtc? Or should I unlock it and reinstall?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the loosening sequence of the cam caps be the opposite of the tightening? That is, start from the outside and work your way towards the middle? Thanks for the video, doing this job on my 2014 soon to get it ready to sell.
Exactly what i was thinking
Appreciate the video. I think once you have done your first one and build your confidence, not such a hard job. I found it much easier to work with once I took out the tensioner. It gave me a ton of room to fine tune the alignment of the cams.
Remove the tensioner before you set everything to top dead center?
Great work. You are very conscientious about your work. That's a sign that you care about what you are doing, and making sure it's done right the first time. 👍🏻
Great to see repair videos again. Thanks Nestor!
This is the exact problem with my car!! Thanks for the video
Hi my friend l like the video l like the mechanic job l learning about the new technology this is Avery good video thank you for teaching congratulations 😅
Very well done. Just completed the project.
This really doesnt seem that difficult to do. Great explanation.
Cool video, next time, just take the timing cover off. Its not worth the chain moving a tooth. Stock motors dont have a timing guide for the bottom crank pulley and the chain moves very easily over the teeth; take it from someone that has done this thousands of times at this point. Also, you dont have to keep the VTC unlocked, there is a pin tht centers the fixed portion of the gear.
Clearly you don’t work flat rate ain’t nobody got time to take the cover off lol
@@Greg18m7 excactly
@@Greg18m7 Nah no flat rates over here. Gotta make sure were paid by the book. Cant afford to make a mistake, my reputation is everything. My guys are paid to get it done the safest way possible. We are a slower shop, keeping the complaints at a minimum and not having to see the same car for FREE labor is always worth it.
BTW it doesnt take too much longer to remove the timing cover. Its not like a Nissan 2.5 LMAO -if you know you know.
@@DGOfTheCentury actually this procedure is by the book except he didn’t do a valve adjustment
Would it be good to have my mechanic do this when we get a tune up? @@DGOfTheCentury
Great video! You did an excellent job of explaining the process and pointing out the small details about the process. Thank you. Semper Fi, USMC.
hammer head and hanks brother. I appreciate that.
I just bought a 2011 crv. My question is, how much a mechanic should charge for the timing chain and vtc actuator? Just to have an idea. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2015 Dream 2.4. The actuator is on the other side. Do I still have to remove the cam or do I just replace it while on the cam? (That’s what I’m did) Might a stupid question but I did mine earlier and the timing was off. When I started it, it sound like it had an after market cam. A little frustrated. I have till tomorrow to get it running for Monday. Any help will be appreciated. Thnx
@@OhMar1210 multiple ways to do it. But this is the way the manual says to do it. And we follow the manual.
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejothanks . I just did mine today. It’s a little different wit the 2.4 Dream Motor. Super apostate the response 😊
Check you are using 0w30 oil before spending time and money, i found out with 5w30 oil change the noise started and got worst with 10w30 used in next change. This made me think cold start oil thickness might be the problem, and it was. I canged to 0w20 (not very hot down here) and it stopped making noises for two weeks now.
Name of the oil pls?
So, is it super bad that i was able to unlock mine simply by turning it? im in the midle of amajor teardown and inspection of my timing system because of a drivability issue, and i remember just one time thath mine made the cold start grinding noise many months ago. Perhaps my lock pin is rounded and therefor not locking when its suppposed to. My analysis of it with my eyes and brain suggests that the lock is there to stop it rotating until there is oil pressure, so as to stop the cold start rattle and also to stop it form moving out of time while there is no oil pressure to hold it in time. I was undoing the little torx bolts to inspect it, (without the chain) and it just slipped, then i realised i could lock it again by turning it back, thne give it a hit with my palm and i could unlock it. Now im wondering if this is happening randomly causing my stuttering at idle, and maybe even the reason for my lack of power and code p0341, which i thought was a stretched chain.
rr v/c loosen gear bolts, I find remove and replace tensioner ( easily damaged if not retracted properly)and balancer. rr crk seal and mark links paint. shove rag under chain at crk sprocket so chain doesn't jump.
No need to remove cam shaft
Hello ! Thanks for your usefull video. Maybe "wrong marks" on crankshaft pulley indicate the moment you can secure the tensioner using the pin or am I wrong ?
No. They’re used for timing. Not for repairs.
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejo OK, thanks for your answer... and thanks again for your nice video !
While replacing the vtc actuator, auto tensioner pin fell off, how should I reset it? the chain is now too tight to put the camshaft back
if by accident the pin on the tensioner fell off.....as long as you mark down the chain on exhaust sprocket and vtc actuator at TDC...remove the chain tentioner. while outside, lift the lock.push the tensioner in then put the lock pin on the hole and put tensioner back.
I saw a video where a dude removed the sprocket without even removing the cam shaft. Would you recommend against that?
do believe your supposed to remove the cam cap bolts in reverse sequence of the original sequence. I see you show to remove them from the inside out it should be opposite, outside working your war to the middle?
Thank you for the great video. I watched as my 2014 CRV has the same noise when cold start since last few months. Now I have check engine light and couple of other light too like traction & steering so I took it too auto parts store for a quick scan and I have P0341 code for Camshaft position sensor but today I took it too Honda dealer for second opinion and I am told that I need VTC Actuator, tensioner, guide and timing chain but not camshaft sensors. Now I am really confused if I should just replace position sensor as per my scan or should I replace everything asked by dealer which is almost CAD $1500. Let me know if anyone has any suggestion. Thank you!
Change vtc timing chain and tensioner
Thanks a lot man for this video. Before showing to my mechanic can you tell me how many labor hours it takes?
Thanks for the info. Just about your lighting - please just go get yourself some LED tubes and just hang the whole assembly over the work area for some even, soft and very bright lighting. Will improve the video quality no end.
Good idea!
I have the exact same issue on my 2012 Crv and it's been almost 10 years. Didn't notice anything worse, is it bad if i don't fix it or should get it done?
Besides the noise it was making what are the other symptoms? This would be my last part that could be causing the code. I have replaced…..Oem timing chain, new tensioners, new guides, new vtc solenoid, new vtech solenoid, new cam position sensors on both both exhaust and intake. Crv runs fine at high speeds but stutters on build up rpm’s. Code P0341 2002 crv
just curious, where is the diagnostic part in the video? and the link in the description for the full directions of the process?
Hi. Is there a replace part to solve the grinding issue of these faulty VTC actuators, or its the same part?
My moms 2011 Honda CR-V is having this vtc actuator problem. I’m worried about her car not starting one day. Is this something that could happen?
Is there another name for this part? I can't find it on Autozone or Advance
Interesting. So, did the problem come back after your repair some 6 months later?
I want to start a career as an auto mechanic but i dont know where to start. I dont want to be in debt for the rest of my life but i also dont want to pay for some school that wont get me proper training. Do you have any advice on where i should start looking. I have been working on family cars my whole life, would i be able to use that as experience?
Shon Glasgow go to any auto repair shop and ask them for a job. Have your resume ready and your pitch. “Hi, I’m ready to work and be as helpful as possible. I’ll do what ever it takes to work with you. What can I do to get a job here.” Say it with confidence. Just go and ask for jobs my man. Start off doing basic stuff and get in the door, once you do that, come and ask me what to do next.
Great video. Where are you located?
Very detailed explanation
Hi, friend. You repair only the camshaft right.
That sounds very similar to what my 2014 CR-V has started doing. I have 98,000 miles on it. I hope this isn't the problem. I was thinking a fan issue. It rattles on start up and initial acceleration when first running. 😒
Great video man I know it's been a long time but how do you see your crank position with the timing cover on?
You can always remove spark plug one put you finger in the hole feel for compression n then stick a zip tie n wait for it to top ou
Out
My Honda 2.4 2013 CRV just started making that noise when I started up in the morning, the dealership where I bought it said it’s not sending a code so we can’t fix it. Is it supposed to send the code can you tell me please thank you
It normally gives you a code when it gets bad enough.
I have a crv 2013 just purchase it and noticed the sound next day... because it only comes up when the car is cold. i took to a mechanic and there was a loose screw that couldn't get tightened so he said ok lets replace the pulley and tensioner with original ones, that was were the screw was. so that's done. I pick the car go home next day turn on the car... there it goes still a rattling sound. so I took to another mech and we realized it was inside the motor maybe the chain or the actuator but he said the car has no lights on and runs perfectly so it was not an emergency.
what could happen if I leave this on ?
could this damage the engine later on? how do I know a mechanic has experience doing this repairing?
Nice Job.. great video... having a similar issue with a 1-2 second grinding noise on cold start. this video convinced me this job is way over my head to do.. :D
just to follow up, for the record. it cost $1000 to have it repaired by the dealer. *sigh*
I just picked up an accord at auction with the noise. The previous owner had the chain replaced in a shop and its still got the noise.
@@midwestfarm757 - for me it was the CVT actuator. Apparently a common problem with these engines. Only way to fix is have it replaced. You need to open the engine, Secure then timing belt and remove the engine shaft... Too much for a DIY mechanic like me.
@@georgelouie5330 that’s one way to stop it for a short time, but others have had it come back.
@@midwestfarm757 - the dealership said they replaced it with an upgraded part. Don't know for sure... Not much you can do if the dealer approved fix doesn't resolve it. Me taking it apart on my own isn't gonna fix it...
Incredible video and thanks for the clear explanation and spending the time 👍👍
As it gets worse can you hear it while driving?
Can it cause damage (or bad performance, or...?) if the VTC Actuator is not replaced? We have a 200K+ miles 2011 CRV that has this problem (noisy rattle when it starts). I've assumed it is not worth it on a car of this age. It is using some oil already, and accelleration is sluggish at lower RPM (...possibly due to lagging timing from bad VTC Actuator?...or not?)
The only thing I’d be worried about is timing jumping.. if it jumps enough it can cause some damage, but if it doesn’t damage anything you’ll at least get a p0012 fault code indicating incorrect timing of the intake camshaft. I’ve yet to see this happen on many cars that have this exact same rattle though, and many of our customers with Toyotas have the same noise for the same exact dumb reason. I personally would fix it considering it’s accessible without removing the chain and the part is $300 or so.
And yes, bad performance for sure. Your hesitation at acceleration may or may not be related to this depending upon your habit of acceleration. If you are an aggressive driver and hit high enough RPMs from a stop, then sure lol however you may be experiencing delay if you’ve yet to service your transmission. No matter what the dealer says, have your transmission fluid exchanged every 50k miles. If you’ve never had it serviced before, it’s risky to do at your mileage because you may experience worsening of symptoms. Start with this VTC actuator considering it’s a definitive problem if you have this same rattle at cold start-up.
It would be nice to show how you remove and install cam from chain instead of only explaining it. And how you took apart and install VVT from cam
why does it need to be unlocked when you install it?
NOT ONE LINK IN THE DESCRIPTION BELOW?!?
Bro ..... you leave out the BEST part....Y didn't you start up that engine n let us hear what it sounds like......damn!!!!!
Do I have to unlock the vvt gear
i own 09 crv and have same rattle noise but its all the time not only on cool start , if its the VTC Actuator is bad its is possible that does the same sound all the time or its just on cool start up?
Timing tensioner and chain also
@@markusdaniels251 I just picked up an accord at auction with the noise. The previous owner had the chain replaced in a shop and its still got the noise.
Super nice video bro! Thanks 🙏🏼
You got it
Nice work
You need to do a valve adjustment after installing the new actuator.
No you dont.
Agree. No you dont. Didn’t-touch rocker settings Also if you do adjust the valves on these. Be careful of RUclips demonstrations. Have seen wrong advice about TDC and 180 out sequences. Can bend valves and strike pistons
Just trying to figure out why it has to be unlocked if you lock it anyways before you put the cam back in. Does anyone know the reason behind this?I mean they actually say to unlock it with air pressure if it gets locked on accident before it is torqued,but I can't figure out why.
Following
How much. Does it cost to repair the same thing I’m my. Honda crv. 2013. I have the part
$3k
Where are you ?
Good info, thanks
Coincidence I’m having this issue on my TSX now ? Could a bad VTC throw off converter codes or intermittent sluggish take off during street drive?
No. Thats a different issue.
What happens if i didnt lock the VTC actuator?
check engine light for timing problems
Question tho, what happens if we dont replace the vtc actuator? What problems can arise in the future? Thanks!
The rattling is the actuator bouncing around until the oil flow quiets it down. My 08 was doing it when I got it 3 years ago. I went to do the VTC today, and my harmonic balancer mark is a few mm's off when the cams are showing TDC. Prolonged "rattling" slowly stretches the chain. I just orders a chain, guides, hydraulic tensioner from Honda this evening. No point in changing the VTC and leaving the crank timing retarded as much as it is. I felt it getting sluggish these past few months.
Excelente video amigo
Im going to do this on a friends car but can anyone explain what the point of removing the cam is? Cant you just hold the cam while its in the car, unbolt, put new phaser on in unlocked position, torque it down, then lock it, while its in the car the whole time? I cant find any good reason to remove the cam. 🤔
I forget why to be honest. But youll have to remove it brother. Try not to but ehhh, what do I know. I just repair cars every day for 14 years and I followed the manufacturer repair procedure for this which they want you to do this job as fast as possible and if it was easier to remove just the cams they would have said so but what do I know.
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejo i work on cars for a living too but not necessarily as knowledgeable as some of the veteran techs, which is also the reason why I'm looking up info online. I've been working on cars for less than half the years you have been. Like, any other car that I had to replace a phaser or take off sprockets to replace cam seals, I've done it with the cam in the car. I also saw the repair procedure online but was just scratching my head on why the the cam removal was necessary. Anyways thanks for the info, I mean its only gonna take 10-20 more mins to pull and install the cam anyways.
Thanks
Can the gear only go on one way?
Cody Evans no. This is the process.
Great vid bro
Nice video was wait for this video
joseph duque thank you
Just lock it before you put it on the camshaft, done it that way every time with no problems
It doesn't have to unlock?
Im very tempted to do this. I accidentally locked a brand new vtc. I really dont feel like unbolting both camshafts and remove one to unlock it. I think ima just give it a shot and hope i dont break it. Ill report back with results. Remind me if i dont
@@JJ-iz5ql how'd it go?
@@porgin8092 great! I torqued it to spec and all my rattling noises went away. Been daily driving it and no issues.
I miss the part where you start the carcatvthevendcand the rattling noise us gone... 🤔😁
Just replace the VTC actuator locking pin spring to save money, time and risk of timing upset. "springstart VTC'
When do u pull the pin 📌
You don’t even need to do all that!! Only should have to take off valve cover.
Just gotta take out vtc spring and stretch it!!
It’s inside that cam gear take off the hex screws and slowly pull apart.
Normal honda issue alot of videos on it.
Well done.
Thanks for the Video bro 👍✌
Aramis Alburquerque Melendez you got it.
good job
Start the car to see your work
How much does this cost?
I forgot. Ill check tomorrow. But between 700-900 If i remember correctly.
@@THEMECHANICOCMissionViejo ware you located at
@@YAHSHUA2285 San Francisco California
@@lenbata wats the name of the shop
Can I have your contact information.
?
I have the same issue with my CRV 2012.
I live in Antioch, East Bay Area.
Good video but Chris fix already helped us out
What's your point? This video has absolutely nothing to do with ChrisFix
It's the compression spring
Man thank you!!!
Even if you replace sounds will return they dont have a better part
Great vid30
muestra bien todo en el momento que regresates todo asu lugar eso es lo que me interesa no que hables mucho las imagenes dicen mas de mil palabras
Ya ves. Nunca ganas. Toma
La información compra.
Hola, tengo el mismo inconveniente con mi CRV 2012.
Me lo podrías reparar ?
Vivo en el East Bay Area.
Como podría contactarlo?
Gracias .
You didnt link any tools.
I like these videos, i feel like its been a while since you’ve shot repair videos like how when you started. Take care bro and have a happy new year
U need some lights in there
Great video bro I’m in the Bay Area and my 2012 crv does the same thing. Let me know your shop name and number so I can bring it in.
Hi, do you have his phone number or some way to contact him?
I live in East Bay Area and have the same issue with my Crv 2012.
@@Walter_Aguirre he never replied. But I had bought my CRV at Carmax and luckily it was still under warranty so they fixed it no cost. sorry couldnt help but i hear its about a $900-1500 job. Its really a shame Honda never did a recall on this issue especially knowing this is a problem.
THE SERVICE MANUAL LITERALLY SAYS TO LOCK IT, THEN TORQUE IT DOWN. GOD ALMIGHTY, WHICH IS IT?!