the most helpfull paint and decorator on you tube, im taking on jobs myself on a full house renovation and saving loads thanks to phil,the videos are great
Chalk problems solved…. Sometimes you run out of chalk and you just have to get what you can from a local store. If you do get some cracking along the chalked edges just let it dry and then run over it with oil based undercoat and when that’s dry you can Emulsion two coats over the top and problem is solved..hope this helps those in a fix..Even Better Tip…Always buy your chalk in bulk 👍
Everyone ripping on the length of the video??? Heck I was like yippee 🥳 I was waiting for this to drop. I got snacks and drinks and I’m committed 🥳 let’s get Phil’s his Porsche
Oh wow nemesis, I forgot about that one. I used that few years back on a job with an up to 1” gap to wall in places. Customer is a mate of mine I should check that bookcase again soon (thanks for the heads up) but I do remember it was absolute dynamite stuff to tool off nice and square.
Thank you very much for your time and expense on systematically reviewing caulks so it is not a guessing game anymore. Pet hate when you go for that really nice finish and you find out you grabed the wrong caulk (because you couldnt get what you had already tried and tested). It is worth the time. Thanks again
Fair play for your investment of time and money for this study. For a quick ready reckoner, It seems if the caulk doesn't say acrylic on the tube, and if it doesn't say 12% or more flexibility and good for interior and exterior,, the chances are it won't take paint as well as those that meet those basic criteria. Technical data sheets are your friend in this regard. ie caulk choice is not quite the minefield it seems. I appreciate you needed a standard testing option, there is another criteria that is quite important -the size of the gaps that the caulk is designed for. If you look at the Soudal decorator caulk range as an example of a "failure", they have paintable caulk designed for different scenarios. One is for 1mm gaps and wider, (probably the one you tested?) then there is the acryrub range for 5mm gaps and wider. The gap sizes also tie into their elasticity rating. The 1mm gap version is 7% elastic which isn't the 12% bar that seems to work for reliable overpainting on wider gaps. The 5mm gap version is 12% and they have other versions for bigger gaps with 15% flexibility and so on. Another compatibility issue to think about is dealing with latex products in an acrylic world. Master of the obvious but so much PVAvinylcontractor product is inferior quality to premium acrylic products and brings issues that you don't really get if you work with high acrylic (more expensive) kit. Thinking about why so many painters have personal favourites that others dismiss, would your results differ if you overpainted with a premium acrylic finish, which I'm sure F&B estate isn't. In other words, would more caulks pass the crack test if painters used "better" paint? The merchants are questionable though, selling literally inappropriate products which can and do cause endless issues and add guesswork to something that should have been nailed 30 years ago.
Thanks for commenting. A caulk needs to work with all paints, as not everyone will pay for a premium paint. All my tubs of caulk were left till next day so all had skinned up The gap size wasn't being looked at so the slump factor on that tub surface was just out of interest. Main thing was, will your paint react and crack over the caulk surface. Some did, some didn't.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator "will your paint react and crack over the caulk surface." Your comment is spot on - "not everyone will pay for a premium paint" And I would add, "not everyone will pay for a premium caulk even though the cheaper stuff is shown not to work." Those duff caulks aren't leaving the UK market any time soon because the demand for them will continue for a multitude of illogical reasons. That suggests you still have decades of educational opportunities and videos ahead of you :)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you sounded impressed with its workability, and the pot looked very solid even when squeezed. The limited info on the tube, on their website and the B&Q site ticks the basic boxes; big tube format is trade oriented, and the price is great. It would help to know where it is made (is it km0 and has a local support story or is supply dependent on a far-off land. And a more detailed spec sheet would be good, especially about bead sizes. If you were going to put it in your store, seek out controlled test results with a bunch more paints to back up the claims of a go-to option for across the spectrum. my 2cents .
HB 42 is my choice Thanks for taking the time to do this Its good to know what to go for if you can't get your usual brand if out of stock etc The only thing i would mention ,never use your spit to smooth out You are adding bacteria to the caulk before it has had a chance to set
Thanks Phil, ease of availability has been a thing for me in the past, but interesting about those 380ml tubes. My own test in use is how much they 'bobble up' with little 'nibs' when smoothing along linear edges, and can the edges of the caulk line be feathered out with a little spray of water and a wet finger? So I'll give your high performers a go myself and see how they compare to my usual products, such as the 310ml Dunlop.
HB42 and Paint Warrior I had box of each. I think now is time to try Red Evil. Geocel contractor 380ml is great as well . Thanks Phil again for interesting experiment!
Hi Phil, like you got all the qualifications, taught at a large FE College, and been self employed. This is a bit left field, but until I tried it I was very sceptical. I had a large gap between skirting and wall to fill, so for some reason I decided to use Wickes Instant Grab Adhesive (solvent free), instead of all the Caulks I had tried. Have to say, it worked so well, I use it most of the time for frames, skirting etc. No cracking at all, so solid, and solvent free. Just give it a try and let me know.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorThat’s a good point. I have used it at home on the staircase main wall, where I had continually come up against caulks that had cracked between wall and stringing. This is still without cracks 3 years later. As for flexibility, this is where the trade off comes. But to be honest that flexibility quality of some caulks, comes at the price of not cracking or coming away, and it’s a fine line ( no pun intended). I also agree with the previous comment about using it the day before. I do find that most of the problems with fillers/caulks etc, is that everyone wants the instant product, how long before I can coat it up, does it need a primer, does it take water based products. I know time is money but you sometimes need to plan the work better.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no, it's purely gap filling really, great when there is a large gap and a bit of movement in skirting and architrave as it firms it up and secures it to the wall. If I think there's a chance of movement in say T&G panelling, or where a stud wall meets a solid wall I'll always opt for caulk. I've also found there is less shrinkage with water based gap filler
Hi Phil. I was looking fwd to this one then saw it was over 2hrs. That said, the format you've done covering same points on each one makes it easy to scroll back / fwd. Really interesting and very helpful vid. One i dont agree with is the nemesis, i wouldnt use it if it where £2. Feedback to manufacturers to state on the front if its also exterior. I spend time (like you did) looking for this AND the claim will sell more. Clearly they are missing a trick here
Have you ever done a masking tape review , say with all the so called top tapes and different surfaces and colour tapes for precision, would be interesting as I’m so torn now which brand to use for different scenarios
Geocel is my go to for years, even though I bought 3 tubes of fcI think it’s called at the painting and decorating show , but haven’t used it yet as I’m on holiday until march
Appreciate the amount of work that went into this vid. Hard watch had to skip 90% of it and even the conclusion left me clueless as they all seem very similar probably made by the same manufacturer but in different branding. This one was a bit like a visit to the dentist and blows out the water any previously long vids of yours Phil. Were u going for the world record for the longest and dullest product review on RUclips with absolutely no real conclusion . 😂
hi Phil i loved the kitchen video's well done you have gave me ideas lol most calks are only good for inside . outside they seem to dissolve with the damp and rain
Appreciate the video Phil but surely the tubs pumped full of caulk are well over the recommended width/depth of application? Don’t most caulk’s recommend a maximin gap of 6-10mm? Surely that much caulk in a lump is bound to crack as it’s not recommended? Just a thought. Obviously there are some like the FC1 that allow for wider filling but most are as mentioned?
I can tell you skipped all the bits where things were explained :( anyway, it all get classed as a view and youtube love ppl commenting.. as I do too :(
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator oh blimey, it wasn’t meant to offend you Phil. No I heard you mention about the tubs being a lot deeper and wider than it’d be used for on countless occasions and that’s the point I’m making, it would only be a fair test surely when applied as recommended by the manufacturer, you pretty much said it yourself with every caulk. I also always listen to you saying, comment with your opinions, so I have. I didn’t realise what you really meant was only comment if you agree with your video otherwise I’ll get really offended and sarcastic. My sincere apologies. Have a lonely day good Sir! 👍🏼
Not a decorator, just DIY. But I’ve been using EBT. I can’t remember where, but it was after a trawl through the internet that I found it being recommended. Probably a bit pricey, IDK.
There all crap 💩 used them all painting for 35 years and hb42 is the only one that seems to work sometimes I’ve now gone back to old school filler in a tub I use Toupret tx110 and fill all ceiling and walls and skirtings you may all moan and say that’s 1980’s yet I can rub down perfectly into corners and have a perfect profile everyone you use your finger there’s a chance of a concave corner which is not good in other words not a proper square corner. Example if all ceilings and walls were white and had one feature wall in dark blue you would have mint lines by using a 120 or 180 sanding block Caulk has it’s uses but sick of crazing and caulking and undercoating edges before going home I’ve gone back to old school works a dream before anyone knocks it TRY IT FIRST
@ I have used all of them and more for 6 years solid looking Phil trust me. Please read my whole message Phil perfect straight corners is better with filler not a concave corner with rounded edges. If you’ve been painting as long as me you would have started with tetrion or alabastine mixed in a tub. Caulk is convenient and we live in a society now where everyone wants instant gratification and a quick fix I used to do it and still use caulk very rarely but now I’m not turning back after tx110 I’m not joking it leaves a great corner which gives great lines if your a perfectionist like I am it’s a no brainer yes it takes time the results show Never had one job crack since two years ago
@@AnthonyToth-t5v yeah I only started my Level 1 C&G in 1990.. only seems 5mins ago... So I'll say not been very long doing it. Filler on skirting boards like some still do, drys out, cracks and is a nightmare when using a blade into it when papering though.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes it can crack and I would only caulk where paper will be hung I was in college passed all city and guilds in 1987 I think it doesn’t matter really how you get to a good finish as long as it looks good at the end I take it your old school Hamilton acorn eagle 27 Harris supers lol and brolac Berger and Permoglaze which was a great paint till crown threw them under a bus. Your videos are good we could chat for hours honestly but I’m just nicely saying I use tx110 on all cracks the day before after scraping out rubbing down and dusting then applying filler leave overnight sanding blocks 120 then 180 dust off then apply Zinsser gardz then paint looks mint mate
Time Stamps
00:00 Intro
00:35 Welcome
05:52 A close up look
09:09 How to cut the end of a caulk tube
11:04 Filling a pot
12:31 Tooling up
14:26 The weigh in
14:57 All potted up
17:45 Which paint have I used?
19:18 Close up
21:01 Painted caulk pots
25:23 PolyCell Trade PolyFilla Decorators Caulk (1)
28:36 Dulux Decorators Caulk (2)
31:06 Crown Ultimate Instant Decorators Caulk (3)
32:55 Crown Professional Instand decorators Caulk (4)
34:35 Johnstones ProGold Premium Flexible Caulk (5)
35:55 Johnstones ProGold Decorators Caulk (6)
37:51 RedDevil OneTime Caulk (7)
40:12 Dulux Anti Crack Caulk (8)
42:48 No Nonsense Decorators Caulk (9)
45:33 Soudal Decorators Caulk (10)
47:30 Brewers Ultimate Decorators Caulk (11)
50:28 Brewers Premium Caulk (12)
52:40 Geocel Contractors Decorators Caulk (13)
54:27 HB42 Ultimate Pro Finish Decorators Caulk (14)
57:11 Isomat Isomastic-A (15)
59:15 Geocel Painters Mate (16)
1:02:05 151 Professional Flexible Filler (17)
1:04:01 151 Decorators Flexible Filler (18)
1:05:40 Dunlop Flexible Acrylic Filler (19)
1:08:13 Nemesis Mighty Decorators Caulk (20)
1:12:19 SupaDec High Performance Decorators Caulk (21)
1:15:18 Bostik A80 (22)
1:18:27 Howdens Decorators Caulk (23)
1:20:28 Fill It Decorating Filler (24)
1:22:03 EverBuild CaulkOnce (25)
1:25:21 Turner and Gray Decorators Caulk (26)
1:29:08 Paint warrior Ultimate Flex Decorators Caulk (27)
1:33:49 Ctec FC1 Filler and Caulk (28)
1:38:03 Stanley Quick Dry Decorators Caulk (29)
1:40:51 AllPro Quick2Coat (30)
1:45:11 EverBuild EverFlex Contract 125 One Hour Caulk (31)
1:48:17 OB1 Paintable Hybrid Sealant (32)
1:52:12 Den Braven Acryl Anti Crack
1:55:23 PaintStop Decorators Caulk
1:58:31 Evo-Stik Decorators Caulk Trade Only
2:01:33 Conclusion
2:17:53 Call To action
the most helpfull paint and decorator on you tube, im taking on jobs myself on a full house renovation and saving loads thanks to phil,the videos are great
Glad to help.
Chalk problems solved…. Sometimes you run out of chalk and you just have to get what you can from a local store. If you do get some cracking along the chalked edges just let it dry and then run over it with oil based undercoat and when that’s dry you can Emulsion two coats over the top and problem is solved..hope this helps those in a fix..Even Better Tip…Always buy your chalk in bulk 👍
Great video.
Just purchased a dripless caulk gun.
Really enjoy all your videos,keep up the good work.
Cheers Phil.
Tnx.
I wish I had one a long while ago.
Brilliant product
Fair play to you for going to all that effort. I mostly use the Geocel these days
Everyone ripping on the length of the video??? Heck I was like yippee 🥳 I was waiting for this to drop. I got snacks and drinks and I’m committed 🥳 let’s get Phil’s his Porsche
how could it be done in 10mins lol
Oh wow nemesis, I forgot about that one. I used that few years back on a job with an up to 1” gap to wall in places. Customer is a mate of mine I should check that bookcase again soon (thanks for the heads up) but I do remember it was absolute dynamite stuff to tool off nice and square.
Thank you very much for your time and expense on systematically reviewing caulks so it is not a guessing game anymore. Pet hate when you go for that really nice finish and you find out you grabed the wrong caulk (because you couldnt get what you had already tried and tested). It is worth the time. Thanks again
It's good reference
Fair play for your investment of time and money for this study. For a quick ready reckoner, It seems if the caulk doesn't say acrylic on the tube, and if it doesn't say 12% or more flexibility and good for interior and exterior,, the chances are it won't take paint as well as those that meet those basic criteria. Technical data sheets are your friend in this regard. ie caulk choice is not quite the minefield it seems.
I appreciate you needed a standard testing option, there is another criteria that is quite important -the size of the gaps that the caulk is designed for. If you look at the Soudal decorator caulk range as an example of a "failure", they have paintable caulk designed for different scenarios. One is for 1mm gaps and wider, (probably the one you tested?) then there is the acryrub range for 5mm gaps and wider. The gap sizes also tie into their elasticity rating. The 1mm gap version is 7% elastic which isn't the 12% bar that seems to work for reliable overpainting on wider gaps. The 5mm gap version is 12% and they have other versions for bigger gaps with 15% flexibility and so on.
Another compatibility issue to think about is dealing with latex products in an acrylic world. Master of the obvious but so much PVAvinylcontractor product is inferior quality to premium acrylic products and brings issues that you don't really get if you work with high acrylic (more expensive) kit.
Thinking about why so many painters have personal favourites that others dismiss, would your results differ if you overpainted with a premium acrylic finish, which I'm sure F&B estate isn't. In other words, would more caulks pass the crack test if painters used "better" paint?
The merchants are questionable though, selling literally inappropriate products which can and do cause endless issues and add guesswork to something that should have been nailed 30 years ago.
Thanks for commenting.
A caulk needs to work with all paints, as not everyone will pay for a premium paint.
All my tubs of caulk were left till next day so all had skinned up
The gap size wasn't being looked at so the slump factor on that tub surface was just out of interest.
Main thing was, will your paint react and crack over the caulk surface.
Some did, some didn't.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator "will your paint react and crack over the caulk surface." Your comment is spot on - "not everyone will pay for a premium paint" And I would add, "not everyone will pay for a premium caulk even though the cheaper stuff is shown not to work."
Those duff caulks aren't leaving the UK market any time soon because the demand for them will continue for a multitude of illogical reasons.
That suggests you still have decades of educational opportunities and videos ahead of you :)
@hergback9542 what did you think to the Paint Stop caulk... And it's price .. how do you think people would embrace that one?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you sounded impressed with its workability, and the pot looked very solid even when squeezed. The limited info on the tube, on their website and the B&Q site ticks the basic boxes; big tube format is trade oriented, and the price is great. It would help to know where it is made (is it km0 and has a local support story or is supply dependent on a far-off land. And a more detailed spec sheet would be good, especially about bead sizes. If you were going to put it in your store, seek out controlled test results with a bunch more paints to back up the claims of a go-to option for across the spectrum. my 2cents
.
HB 42 is my choice
Thanks for taking the time to do this
Its good to know what to go for if you can't get your usual brand if out of stock etc
The only thing i would mention ,never use your spit to smooth out
You are adding bacteria to the caulk before it has had a chance to set
Thank you!
Geocel contractor is my go to caulk phil ,been using it for years ,no issues.
Yep
Same. Good stuff. I've used the painters mate and the nemesis but both crazed with certain paints
Thanks Phil, ease of availability has been a thing for me in the past, but interesting about those 380ml tubes. My own test in use is how much they 'bobble up' with little 'nibs' when smoothing along linear edges, and can the edges of the caulk line be feathered out with a little spray of water and a wet finger? So I'll give your high performers a go myself and see how they compare to my usual products, such as the 310ml Dunlop.
HB42 and Paint Warrior I had box of each. I think now is time to try Red Evil. Geocel contractor 380ml is great as well .
Thanks Phil again for interesting experiment!
This could be the Magnum Opus of all caulking videos.
Is that good or really good?
Hi Phil, like you got all the qualifications, taught at a large FE College, and been self employed. This is a bit left field, but until I tried it I was very sceptical. I had a large gap between skirting and wall to fill, so for some reason I decided to use Wickes Instant Grab Adhesive (solvent free), instead of all the Caulks I had tried. Have to say, it worked so well, I use it most of the time for frames, skirting etc. No cracking at all, so solid, and solvent free. Just give it a try and let me know.
I often do the same, but only if I can do it the day before
Thanks for sharing. Does it have much flexibility though once set? That's what I normally find when using adhesive as caulk it sets to hard.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorThat’s a good point. I have used it at home on the staircase main wall, where I had continually come up against caulks that had cracked between wall and stringing. This is still without cracks 3 years later. As for flexibility, this is where the trade off comes. But to be honest that flexibility quality of some caulks, comes at the price of not cracking or coming away, and it’s a fine line ( no pun intended). I also agree with the previous comment about using it the day before. I do find that most of the problems with fillers/caulks etc, is that everyone wants the instant product, how long before I can coat it up, does it need a primer, does it take water based products. I know time is money but you sometimes need to plan the work better.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no, it's purely gap filling really, great when there is a large gap and a bit of movement in skirting and architrave as it firms it up and secures it to the wall. If I think there's a chance of movement in say T&G panelling, or where a stud wall meets a solid wall I'll always opt for caulk. I've also found there is less shrinkage with water based gap filler
Hi Phil. I was looking fwd to this one then saw it was over 2hrs. That said, the format you've done covering same points on each one makes it easy to scroll back / fwd. Really interesting and very helpful vid. One i dont agree with is the nemesis, i wouldnt use it if it where £2.
Feedback to manufacturers to state on the front if its also exterior. I spend time (like you did) looking for this AND the claim will sell more. Clearly they are missing a trick here
Tnx.
A long one. But being time stamped people can view the caulk the search for or watch bits at a time.
FC1 All day long. Just so easy to use. Longevity is fantastic. Might be a bit more expensive, but a cheaper than a revisit a few months later.
Have you ever done a masking tape review , say with all the so called top tapes and different surfaces and colour tapes for precision, would be interesting as I’m so torn now which brand to use for different scenarios
every brand does a very similar tape, low, medium and higher tac. I think too many for me to review, it would be a LONG VIDEO LOL ;)
tremendous work. Thanks a lot
SX sirofllex anti crack - box of 12 - used it for years - perfect.
who makes that?
Geocel is my go to for years, even though I bought 3 tubes of fcI think it’s called at the painting and decorating show , but haven’t used it yet as I’m on holiday until march
Appreciate the amount of work that went into this vid. Hard watch had to skip 90% of it and even the conclusion left me clueless as they all seem very similar probably made by the same manufacturer but in different branding.
This one was a bit like a visit to the dentist and blows out the water any previously long vids of yours Phil. Were u going for the world record for the longest and dullest product review on RUclips with absolutely no real conclusion . 😂
Time stamps .. look at the time stamps in the description... Look at the caulk you want the look at compared to another.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I appreciate you Phil! Some of these negs are just grumpies…..I’m a DIYer, so appreciate your information.
@@louise2467 You're the one person I'm here to help then ;) tnx you
hi Phil i loved the kitchen video's well done you have gave me ideas lol most calks are only good for inside . outside they seem to dissolve with the damp and rain
least you now know which caulks to use that are interior and exterior :)
Best 2 on the market are paint warrior and SOUDAL turbo decorating Caulk
Which others have you tried out the 35 I've had a go with?
Appreciate the video Phil but surely the tubs pumped full of caulk are well over the recommended width/depth of application? Don’t most caulk’s recommend a maximin gap of 6-10mm? Surely that much caulk in a lump is bound to crack as it’s not recommended? Just a thought. Obviously there are some like the FC1 that allow for wider filling but most are as mentioned?
I can tell you skipped all the bits where things were explained :( anyway, it all get classed as a view and youtube love ppl commenting.. as I do too :(
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator oh blimey, it wasn’t meant to offend you Phil. No I heard you mention about the tubs being a lot deeper and wider than it’d be used for on countless occasions and that’s the point I’m making, it would only be a fair test surely when applied as recommended by the manufacturer, you pretty much said it yourself with every caulk. I also always listen to you saying, comment with your opinions, so I have. I didn’t realise what you really meant was only comment if you agree with your video otherwise I’ll get really offended and sarcastic. My sincere apologies. Have a lonely day good Sir! 👍🏼
@@thebearthecave8502 I've not slept due to it. Thankfully you watched the conclusion :)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator aww bless you sausage. 😘 love you!
@thebearthecave8502 it's still bothering me now 😆
Not a decorator, just DIY. But I’ve been using EBT. I can’t remember where, but it was after a trawl through the internet that I found it being recommended. Probably a bit pricey, IDK.
Could you make a top 3 list by any chance and add to the comments?
Not really, as some are very similar and do the same thing. I can show you my results and then people can try and see how they get on with it.
Paintstop caulk is made by paintstop and manufactured in Ireland....
why dont them make smaller tubes
and charge more like Curly Wurly's?
Den braven for me, nice consistency, no problems, good price also, worst I've tried is painters mate, good vid phil
Tell me it's good after you've watched it ALL ;) 😉
Den Braven is the best I've used from the ones iv tried over the yrs
Nemesis make a good caulk.
One way not to worry about it don't use it
which one?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator None of them Phil
what do you use?
You didnt squeeze the one time caulk tub? 🤔😂
lol
most are from the same chemical companies
2hrs 20 mins talking about caulk , think I’ll pass on this one
Me too 🤦♂️
I bet you used the time stamp to look at the pAINT wARRIOR cAULK lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I just stick with what I know sx been using it for years
@@davidsmalley8783 Bostik in another tube then ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I wouldn’t know
There all crap 💩 used them all painting for 35 years and hb42 is the only one that seems to work sometimes I’ve now gone back to old school filler in a tub I use Toupret tx110 and fill all ceiling and walls and skirtings you may all moan and say that’s 1980’s yet I can rub down perfectly into corners and have a perfect profile everyone you use your finger there’s a chance of a concave corner which is not good in other words not a proper square corner. Example if all ceilings and walls were white and had one feature wall in dark blue you would have mint lines by using a 120 or 180 sanding block
Caulk has it’s uses but sick of crazing and caulking and undercoating edges before going home I’ve gone back to old school works a dream before anyone knocks it TRY IT FIRST
when you've watched all the tests you'll see a number don't do what you're on about.. so when you say you've used them all... have you? lol
@ I have used all of them and more for 6 years solid looking Phil trust me. Please read my whole message Phil perfect straight corners is better with filler not a concave corner with rounded edges. If you’ve been painting as long as me you would have started with tetrion or alabastine mixed in a tub. Caulk is convenient and we live in a society now where everyone wants instant gratification and a quick fix I used to do it and still use caulk very rarely but now I’m not turning back after tx110 I’m not joking it leaves a great corner which gives great lines if your a perfectionist like I am it’s a no brainer yes it takes time the results show
Never had one job crack since two years ago
@@AnthonyToth-t5v yeah I only started my Level 1 C&G in 1990.. only seems 5mins ago... So I'll say not been very long doing it.
Filler on skirting boards like some still do, drys out, cracks and is a nightmare when using a blade into it when papering though.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes it can crack and I would only caulk where paper will be hung
I was in college passed all city and guilds in 1987
I think it doesn’t matter really how you get to a good finish as long as it looks good at the end
I take it your old school Hamilton acorn eagle 27 Harris supers lol and brolac Berger and Permoglaze which was a great paint till crown threw them under a bus. Your videos are good we could chat for hours honestly but I’m just nicely saying I use tx110 on all cracks the day before after scraping out rubbing down and dusting then applying filler leave overnight sanding blocks 120 then 180 dust off then apply Zinsser gardz then paint looks mint mate
@@AnthonyToth-t5v jusy in case you missed this one.. ruclips.net/video/S6NIZZETA_g/видео.htmlsi=Fv50tDfLUXobctuv&t=90
Found some behave differently, Geocel is my preferred choice, some are quite thin, & prone to cracking etc