When my father was training to be a machinist he made a kitchen mallet out of two pieces of solid steel, head and handle. Cuts are beautiful and you can tenderize granite with it.
Important. Pallets can be treated with toxic chemicals. Check the markings on the pallet before reusing them. MB is methyl bromide. do not use where it will come into contact with wildlife (or your food) and do not burn in a home fire. HT is just heat treated and should be safe.
I'll add a second to the caution on using materials of unknown provenance in critical applications. There is no more critical application than food preparation. And someone will inevitably point out that the handle doesn't contact the food. No, but your hands will contact the food immediately after contacting the handle.
Working in the international shipping industry I've seen people use container flooring for projects, and it's MUCH worse than pallets as far as nasty chemicals impregnated into the wood.
@@Scoots1994 That's because they are unaware of the potential hazards involved, and why comments like this need to be made. So that people can become more aware.
That was my first thought as well. I wouldn't want pallet wood anywhere near the kitchen. Hopefully it wasn't toxic with all the chips and dust flying while it was on the lathe too.
It's funny to see how a machinist approaches woodturning. Seeing you do that handle on the massive lathe, and using the cross slide seems so foreign to me yet arrives somewhere so familiar. A million ways to skin a cat. Love it, man!
@gorgonzola86 good point, pallets are treated so that international shipments are not infested with a invasive bug species that could cause trouble in foreign countries.
I think it depends on where they're made/used. In my experience in the midlantic region of the US, pallets are almost always pine, but I've heard that in some places they're almost always white oak. And I wouldn't worry about any treatments; they tend to just be surface treatments for pallets, since they're basically disposable, and it's not all that important for the handle to be food-safe anyway. Not outright poisonous, of course, but it doesn't need to be safe for food contact like the head does.
I once found a BEAUTIFUL piece of striated maple on a pallet at work. I pried that sucker loose and milled it for making knife handles. I still have some somewhere that I've been saving. No idea where that pallet was from originally, but I imagine maple is probably a pretty rare wood to find on a pallet.
The “waffle” technique is surprisingly simple, with accurate tools. I can see why the pattern made its way into so many mass-production tools, in their first iterations.
A few straight saw cuts and a triangular file is all you need, really. But it needs to be calculated properly first, and it’s interesting to see that Adam messed up and ended up with a row of half-pyramids at one end.
Have to say I would NOT use pallet wood in anything meant for food preparation. There is simply no way to know what the wood has been exposed/contaminated with.
You could make a metal one. Stainless steel is very good in the kitchen as it is non-porous, which means it does not absorb or retain dirt, bacteria, or odors, making it highly hygienic.
I have both stainless and wood kitchen mallets. Most of the time the metal one is too heavy, damages cutting boards, and is just too hard, sending a lot of energy back into my arm. Wood is actually preferable as it has more give, and most of what you're using it for is softer than wood substantially. Also you should have a spritzed sheet of cling wrap between the food and the hammer. Less tear, smother smoosh.
@@zj6074 If you have a steel mallet that's "toothed" like a meat mallet then you might have what's known as a bushing hammer. It's an expensive mason's tool designed to roughen sawn slabs back to a more natural look. You could probably sell it and buy a dozen meat mallets.
or go for best of both worlds and make a stainless hammer head with a wooden handle to reduce the recoil to your arm. I definitely agree with the cling wrap though @@mzaite
My parents had (or maybe still have, I haven't checked) a mallet made of die-cast aluminium. Not as heavy as a steel mallet would be, but still all the other benefits of a metal surface.
Yes, let’s take a design that wasn’t 100% effective to begin with, and replicate it nearly 1:1 without and improvements whatsoever. Maybe giving the ID of the hole a little bit of a conical shape as well to help give the handle a little more bite would have been useful
The problem with the original wasn’t the wedge/shim in the handle. Using a shim is a standard practice that goes back thousands of years, used on hammers, mallets, axes, and all manner of hand tools. It enables you to replace either the head or the handle without throwing both away (although Adam ruined this by gluing the whole thing together). Admittedly the large shim isn’t great for a tool a wooden head, which may have led to the original head cracking, but with the wood and glue Adam used it will likely be alleviated. The original failed because it was a cheap tool made from cheap materials. Adam could’ve just glued it back together and gotten another couple of years out of it, but making hammers and handles is super fun, if you know how.
I make my own finish for this kind of thing. It's pretty much a 50/50 mix of food-grade beeswax and mineral oil. I use it on wood cutting boards and wood spoons. You have to reapply it once in a while though.
I honestly expected this to be a metal machining (milling) build, for the head at least, so it was a pleasant surprise to see him work some wood on the lathe again.
Nice build Adam and it looks great. I probably would have slightly shamfered the non dimpled hitting end of the mallet head as it may splinter of you catch the edge of something hard, while using it. Definte improvement on your old one. I too love making simple wooden utilitarian objects, especially for the kitchen.
The flat face could use some chamfers to keep blows from splintering the sides and to just make it more comfortable to use. That'll be easy to do later when you realize it, though.
I love the use of tools, makes me think of the woodshop in a different way, why not use a mill for wood projects.. Love the ruler on your arm as well! I might be inspired.
I used to get "oak" 2x4s off (elongated) pallets to make replacement handles on splitting mauls. They get heavily abused busting wood all year. The oak lasted longer than hickory.
Others have mentioned that pallet wood can contain toxic chemicals; I'd like to add that walnut is a somewhat soft hardwood, so it will probably dent if striking hard objects. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to note. For those who don't know, "hardwood" and "softwood" are just different words for "deciduous" (loses leaves in winter) and "coniferous" (has leaves all year round); it doesn't mean anything for toughness. Some "softwoods", like Longleaf Pine, are tougher than other "hardwoods", like Yellow Poplar. If you'd like to know more, look up the Janka Hardness test.
I like tung oil for kitchen finishes. It's important to get pure tung oil though, and not simply a tung oil "product". Unfortunately, that does have long cure times. Works, though. It's food safe, and as a curing oil, it's great for the use case.
Knowing you love machining and brass, I wonder if you could drill through the sides of the mallet head and insert some threaded brass pieces that interface with each other. That would give a little more heft to the mallet and help prevent a split from occurring like in your older mallet.
Pallet wood is often treated with some very nasty chemicals (in the UK at least, the ones that have blue or red markings). Just make sure you source untreated ones.
Even untreated, pallet wood is not safe for kitchen/food uses. It's impossible to know what might have leeched into the wood. Pallets are used to transport all sorts of chemicals. They also sit in places where chemicals and such have been spilled. There's to many unknown variables, making the risk for greater than the potential savings of buying a piece of wood.
FYI, that Forstner but you’re using around 5:00 is running wayyy too fast, that’s why it’s smoking, wood bits like to run quicker than metal bits but not nearly that fast
And THAT's how a machinist does woodworking! Next challenge...repeat this entire mallet but with a hand saw, a Stanley No. 4 hand plane, a brace and bit, and a file! Great job by the way!
Luxurious item hammer made of mahogany. I would put not a transverse but a longitudinal plug. In the process of shocks from vibration, the plug may fall out over time. The question is whether the team will Test to check how long it takes for the hammer plug to fly out. Or we're expecting a shipment of hammers for Christmas on the desh, trash, whatever it's called store 😂😂😂 Merry Christmas to the team and everyone else
Ah yes! Using hand tools on the wood lathe! Man that takes me back to 9th grade shop class and making a multi colored wood lamp! Those first passes on square wood were terrifying!! Some of my best memories!
Still the best way to make a wooden mallet is like a joiners mallet with a tapered rectangle hole and tapered rectangle handle slid though. Can’t do that on a mill I would guess.
They do make food-grade Tung oil and solvents, if you ever decide you need an heirloom quality spatula. Or when you just like oil finishes and spending a week refinishing a $10 wood spatula. No regrets.
I have a great one day build for you that should be a quick one. How about the "Annihilator 2000" from Beverly Hills Cop?!?! Ackwell, would be so impressed that Surge was able to keep it relevant.
Even then, you don't know what that pallet transported, what contaminates it sat in, or what was spilled onto it. Just say no to pallet wood in the kitchen/around food.
I am not a woodworker, but I've watched enough violin and other restoration videos to know that hide glue is reversible and can be removed with a bit of warm water...which is what happens when you wash a kitchen tool.
Hi Adam I watch all your content and now watching the street garbage hammer with the hardened pin and pallet board. I think that would make a cool segment every couple of videos. Maybe you turn something into something else. Make a tool you need but make it out of something odd you wouldnt think off.
His youtube adsense account also likes that he made it instead of buying it - the video will probably make 1000x in ad revenue what it would've cost to buy one.
I wonder if Adam knows how to mix up claymation plasticine because according to some sources the studio who make Wallace and Gromit may go under because the company that makes theirs has closed down. Would it be possible to make batches in a studio setting?
Only Adam Savage would get a tattoo that functions and he uses in every day life. That's probably the most genius tattoo I have ever seen. Most people get tattoos to look cool or for sentimental reasons. I've never seen anyone get a tattoo that helps them in every day life measure things haha. Bravo Adam. Bravo.
Hide glue is fantastic but don't soak that mallet or the glue will definitely fail . Titebond 3 or epoxy is a good choice if you end up having to reglue or remake this mallet.
Great build, but holy cow you are running that Forstner bit so fast. That size bit should be run at 250-500 RPM, max. Check out Fisch Wavy Forstner bits if you ever need new ones after burning through those at that speed.
Missed seeing cutting the slot in end of handle and matching wedge…?? I thought hide glue was generally water - soluble to allow for future disassembly; how does that work for a kitchen tool that will get wet / need to be washed? Or am I mistaken? Thanks!
You are correct in that hide glue can soften with heat (and to a lesser extent with water). But if softened, it will regain its full adhesion again when it cools. Also useful to know: hide glue is food safe.
Heck, i'd buy a whole range of kitchen appliances with the Savage name on them. The savage vegetable peeler. The savage meat slicer. The savage garlic press. For the true Savage(tm) in the kitchen! ^-^
@@jeromethiel4323 Holy Cow! You've got all the angles figured out! You're like Elon Musk - without the emotional baggage and disgust factor. Best wishes from Vermont 🍁
Only thing I would do differently would have been how I managed the spacer pieces for the handle.. I would have glued them to the handle and shaped it with the contour of the end giving a round peg at the end.. or use the walnut to do what you did. Just personal preference though
Since he already has the mill, i would have just milled a perfect slot into the head of the hammer. Probably should have used a harder wood for the head, Maple, bloodwood, Ipe. Walnut is pretty soft for something with teeth on it. I always admire how he can do "quick and dirty" so well
To prevent a wedge from falling out, you can glue it in with glue on only one side. As wood movement occurs, you won't potentially break both sides of the joint.
Not only do you have a properly functional hammer, it is also a thing of beauty, which is also completely unique. There is also a huge sense of satisfaction when you make something yourself.
Hide glue was a poor choice - it's not water/moisture resistant. The other design problem I noticed is this: the hole in the mallet head should be tapered with the open side being wider than the handle side. A wedge would then lock the handle in akin to a dovetail joint. Also, the slot and wedge need not be so darn wide!?!?
Subscribe for more videos (and click the bell for notifications): ruclips.net/user/testedcom
When my father was training to be a machinist he made a kitchen mallet out of two pieces of solid steel, head and handle. Cuts are beautiful and you can tenderize granite with it.
Putting holes in your cutting board doesn't feel like desired feature in a kitchen mallet
@@xani666 Doesn't happen.
I hate chewy granite
Important.
Pallets can be treated with toxic chemicals. Check the markings on the pallet before reusing them.
MB is methyl bromide. do not use where it will come into contact with wildlife (or your food) and do not burn in a home fire.
HT is just heat treated and should be safe.
I'll add a second to the caution on using materials of unknown provenance in critical applications. There is no more critical application than food preparation. And someone will inevitably point out that the handle doesn't contact the food. No, but your hands will contact the food immediately after contacting the handle.
Working in the international shipping industry I've seen people use container flooring for projects, and it's MUCH worse than pallets as far as nasty chemicals impregnated into the wood.
@@Scoots1994 That's because they are unaware of the potential hazards involved, and why comments like this need to be made. So that people can become more aware.
@@edbennett8257 I've been telling people for decades. Still plenty more don't know.
That was my first thought as well. I wouldn't want pallet wood anywhere near the kitchen. Hopefully it wasn't toxic with all the chips and dust flying while it was on the lathe too.
It's funny to see how a machinist approaches woodturning. Seeing you do that handle on the massive lathe, and using the cross slide seems so foreign to me yet arrives somewhere so familiar. A million ways to skin a cat. Love it, man!
He's doing WHAT to a cat with a lathe?
i thought the same thing! My immediate approach would have been to grab the hand plane and the spokeshave. love the different methods!
Pallets are usually either pine or white oak, what you have is white oak!
I would be to affraid of disinfestants or other agents that may be in the pallet wood to use it for an kitchen tool.
I love that you totally did the thing he said. Chefs kiss to you.
@gorgonzola86 good point, pallets are treated so that international shipments are not infested with a invasive bug species that could cause trouble in foreign countries.
I think it depends on where they're made/used. In my experience in the midlantic region of the US, pallets are almost always pine, but I've heard that in some places they're almost always white oak. And I wouldn't worry about any treatments; they tend to just be surface treatments for pallets, since they're basically disposable, and it's not all that important for the handle to be food-safe anyway. Not outright poisonous, of course, but it doesn't need to be safe for food contact like the head does.
I once found a BEAUTIFUL piece of striated maple on a pallet at work. I pried that sucker loose and milled it for making knife handles. I still have some somewhere that I've been saving. No idea where that pallet was from originally, but I imagine maple is probably a pretty rare wood to find on a pallet.
The “waffle” technique is surprisingly simple, with accurate tools. I can see why the pattern made its way into so many mass-production tools, in their first iterations.
A few straight saw cuts and a triangular file is all you need, really. But it needs to be calculated properly first, and it’s interesting to see that Adam messed up and ended up with a row of half-pyramids at one end.
@@mm9773 It's a lot more simple to do this with a 45° v-groove router bit in a router table setup.
Have to say I would NOT use pallet wood in anything meant for food preparation. There is simply no way to know what the wood has been exposed/contaminated with.
On RUclips there are woodworkers with hand tools, there are woodworkers with powertools, and then, there's Adam Savage machining his wood on a mill :D
mill'em if ya got'em
No real difference than milling with a CNC; expect it's a different type of skill...
You could make a metal one. Stainless steel is very good in the kitchen as it is non-porous, which means it does not absorb or retain dirt, bacteria, or odors, making it highly hygienic.
I have a steel meat mallet. They're also usually heavier and weightiness can be a good property for a hammer.
I have both stainless and wood kitchen mallets. Most of the time the metal one is too heavy, damages cutting boards, and is just too hard, sending a lot of energy back into my arm.
Wood is actually preferable as it has more give, and most of what you're using it for is softer than wood substantially.
Also you should have a spritzed sheet of cling wrap between the food and the hammer. Less tear, smother smoosh.
@@zj6074 If you have a steel mallet that's "toothed" like a meat mallet then you might have what's known as a bushing hammer. It's an expensive mason's tool designed to roughen sawn slabs back to a more natural look. You could probably sell it and buy a dozen meat mallets.
or go for best of both worlds and make a stainless hammer head with a wooden handle to reduce the recoil to your arm. I definitely agree with the cling wrap though @@mzaite
My parents had (or maybe still have, I haven't checked) a mallet made of die-cast aluminium. Not as heavy as a steel mallet would be, but still all the other benefits of a metal surface.
Pallet wood is usually pine that's heat treated, with chemicals added to keep any critters from burrowing into the wood and making a home.
You replicated the problem in the original, the thick wedge slot in the handle.
Walnut oil works great for food touching wood.
Yes, let’s take a design that wasn’t 100% effective to begin with, and replicate it nearly 1:1 without and improvements whatsoever. Maybe giving the ID of the hole a little bit of a conical shape as well to help give the handle a little more bite would have been useful
The problem with the original wasn’t the wedge/shim in the handle. Using a shim is a standard practice that goes back thousands of years, used on hammers, mallets, axes, and all manner of hand tools. It enables you to replace either the head or the handle without throwing both away (although Adam ruined this by gluing the whole thing together). Admittedly the large shim isn’t great for a tool a wooden head, which may have led to the original head cracking, but with the wood and glue Adam used it will likely be alleviated.
The original failed because it was a cheap tool made from cheap materials. Adam could’ve just glued it back together and gotten another couple of years out of it, but making hammers and handles is super fun, if you know how.
@@jonah4850 The problem wasn't the existence of the slot and wedge. The problem was that the slot was TOO THICK.
I am always mesmerized when I watch your builds. Keep 'em coming.
I make my own finish for this kind of thing. It's pretty much a 50/50 mix of food-grade beeswax and mineral oil. I use it on wood cutting boards and wood spoons. You have to reapply it once in a while though.
I honestly expected this to be a metal machining (milling) build, for the head at least, so it was a pleasant surprise to see him work some wood on the lathe again.
I did my "waffles" on a router table with an Incra Jig. Well done Sir! I love woodworking, ive been doing it since the 1970's
Nice build Adam and it looks great. I probably would have slightly shamfered the non dimpled hitting end of the mallet head as it may splinter of you catch the edge of something hard, while using it. Definte improvement on your old one.
I too love making simple wooden utilitarian objects, especially for the kitchen.
Adam Savage out here raw doggin’ all that dust.
The flat face could use some chamfers to keep blows from splintering the sides and to just make it more comfortable to use. That'll be easy to do later when you realize it, though.
Nicely done.
That was enjoyable to watch being made.
I have seen pallets made from oak, birch, poplar, maple, and hickory. I salvaged nice some birdseye maple from a pallet once.
I was having a bad day and this is exactly what I needed.
I love the use of tools, makes me think of the woodshop in a different way, why not use a mill for wood projects.. Love the ruler on your arm as well! I might be inspired.
That’s an amazing approvment on the lathe shot!!!!
Adam you the man.
I used to get "oak" 2x4s off (elongated) pallets to make replacement handles on splitting mauls. They get heavily abused busting wood all year. The oak lasted longer than hickory.
I Watch you 20 years , Thank you where much
Others have mentioned that pallet wood can contain toxic chemicals; I'd like to add that walnut is a somewhat soft hardwood, so it will probably dent if striking hard objects. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to note.
For those who don't know, "hardwood" and "softwood" are just different words for "deciduous" (loses leaves in winter) and "coniferous" (has leaves all year round); it doesn't mean anything for toughness. Some "softwoods", like Longleaf Pine, are tougher than other "hardwoods", like Yellow Poplar. If you'd like to know more, look up the Janka Hardness test.
I like tung oil for kitchen finishes. It's important to get pure tung oil though, and not simply a tung oil "product". Unfortunately, that does have long cure times. Works, though. It's food safe, and as a curing oil, it's great for the use case.
I use a 5lb deadblow mallet from harbor freight . Wrap the head in plastic and it perfectly works.
Thanks for the reminder to put ours back she asked me yesterday where I'd put it
Dude, that railing can also be laminated, you should check the adhesive for anything toxic. Oh, and that Forstner bit is a low speed bit.
Yeah. Funny how he goes on about Forstner bits all the time and then uses one at 5 million rpm.
Good. He no longer has an absence of mallets.
Hammer time!
Knowing you love machining and brass, I wonder if you could drill through the sides of the mallet head and insert some threaded brass pieces that interface with each other. That would give a little more heft to the mallet and help prevent a split from occurring like in your older mallet.
I love how frequently the disc sander is just spinning away in the background of your videos. 😂
I was so wishing for a machined brass face on this..... the patina over time would be amazing
Pallet wood is often treated with some very nasty chemicals (in the UK at least, the ones that have blue or red markings).
Just make sure you source untreated ones.
Even untreated, pallet wood is not safe for kitchen/food uses. It's impossible to know what might have leeched into the wood. Pallets are used to transport all sorts of chemicals. They also sit in places where chemicals and such have been spilled. There's to many unknown variables, making the risk for greater than the potential savings of buying a piece of wood.
*I WANT THAT MALLET!!!*
FYI, that Forstner but you’re using around 5:00 is running wayyy too fast, that’s why it’s smoking, wood bits like to run quicker than metal bits but not nearly that fast
Good job 😊
Thanks.
You need to get some Axe Wax for it. Trust me. The BEST food grade wax out there!
Touch the spinny thing! Yes!
And THAT's how a machinist does woodworking! Next challenge...repeat this entire mallet but with a hand saw, a Stanley No. 4 hand plane, a brace and bit, and a file! Great job by the way!
Welcome to the Savage family, little wooden mallet!
Right?!
Great build. I'm glad somebody has a legit use for those kitchen mallets. My mom would point or shake it at my direction when I wasn't behaving. 😀
Luxurious item hammer made of mahogany. I would put not a transverse but a longitudinal plug. In the process of shocks from vibration, the plug may fall out over time. The question is whether the team will Test to check how long it takes for the hammer plug to fly out. Or we're expecting a shipment of hammers for Christmas on the desh, trash, whatever it's called store 😂😂😂
Merry Christmas to the team and everyone else
Ah yes! Using hand tools on the wood lathe! Man that takes me back to 9th grade shop class and making a multi colored wood lamp! Those first passes on square wood were terrifying!! Some of my best memories!
Still the best way to make a wooden mallet is like a joiners mallet with a tapered rectangle hole and tapered rectangle handle slid though. Can’t do that on a mill I would guess.
I like how he measures with the tattoo
They do make food-grade Tung oil and solvents, if you ever decide you need an heirloom quality spatula. Or when you just like oil finishes and spending a week refinishing a $10 wood spatula. No regrets.
I have a great one day build for you that should be a quick one. How about the "Annihilator 2000" from Beverly Hills Cop?!?! Ackwell, would be so impressed that Surge was able to keep it relevant.
the tattoo to measure is so sick 😂
Tung oil is a great food safe finish for kitchen products. It won't need to be reapplied as much as mineral oil.
I didn't know you could use a metal lathe to shape wood thanks
Hi Adam, from Carl, Redwood City, next door to Harrys Hauf Brau, Your great!
1:10 the same walnut for your handrails, hammer has to stay with the house now
Love this build. We have one made out of aluminium which will never fail. Adam, make one out of steel!
That leather table cover will make an amazing wall hanger or bag one day. 😀
Cool realisation!!
Fun fact : in France, we just never use hammer in kitchen... because we have good meat... ^^
Few weeks later: "give me back the other one"
"why?"
"BECAUSE, it feels better"
Check stamp on pallet... HT is goodly MB is Verboten!
Even then, you don't know what that pallet transported, what contaminates it sat in, or what was spilled onto it. Just say no to pallet wood in the kitchen/around food.
I am not a woodworker, but I've watched enough violin and other restoration videos to know that hide glue is reversible and can be removed with a bit of warm water...which is what happens when you wash a kitchen tool.
Build suggestion: a rock solid tool rest, preferably 3/4 to 1" round bar of hardened tool steel for your lathe wood turning sessions.
Every time you use that disc sander I smile. It's Amazing, I have a 12" and feel like a king. What is that 18 maybe 20 inch dia ??
Pallet wood comes from a pallet tree...native to Northern Canada
When I was in high school machine shop, I made a hammer like that out of aluminum. I wish I still had it.
Doesn’t hide glue soften when exposed to excess moisture?
Yeah, the old hammer looks like it might have gone through the dishwasher a few times. I hope the new one gets hand-cleaned.
Hi Adam I watch all your content and now watching the street garbage hammer with the hardened pin and pallet board. I think that would make a cool segment every couple of videos. Maybe you turn something into something else. Make a tool you need but make it out of something odd you wouldnt think off.
To finish my kitchen wooden objects , I use the 2 step oil/wax finish from the John Boos Co.
its lovely to see your building one instead of buying one.. but I must admit I prefer a metal meat tenderizer..
Same, metal shouldn't trigger nut allergies, where a walnut head might.
His youtube adsense account also likes that he made it instead of buying it - the video will probably make 1000x in ad revenue what it would've cost to buy one.
I wonder if Adam knows how to mix up claymation plasticine because according to some sources the studio who make Wallace and Gromit may go under because the company that makes theirs has closed down. Would it be possible to make batches in a studio setting?
Only Adam Savage would get a tattoo that functions and he uses in every day life. That's probably the most genius tattoo I have ever seen. Most people get tattoos to look cool or for sentimental reasons. I've never seen anyone get a tattoo that helps them in every day life measure things haha. Bravo Adam. Bravo.
Hide glue is fantastic but don't soak that mallet or the glue will definitely fail . Titebond 3 or epoxy is a good choice if you end up having to reglue or remake this mallet.
This is why Adam is the alpha maker. Sure, he only saved like 10 bucks, but what price for the satisfaction of DIY?
Great build, but holy cow you are running that Forstner bit so fast. That size bit should be run at 250-500 RPM, max. Check out Fisch Wavy Forstner bits if you ever need new ones after burning through those at that speed.
My wife would say "finally a useful project with your tools". Great project and video. It is a good looking hammer.
Missed seeing cutting the slot in end of handle and matching wedge…?? I thought hide glue was generally water - soluble to allow for future disassembly; how does that work for a kitchen tool that will get wet / need to be washed? Or am I mistaken? Thanks!
You are correct in that hide glue can soften with heat (and to a lesser extent with water). But if softened, it will regain its full adhesion again when it cools. Also useful to know: hide glue is food safe.
If the name "Savage Mallets" hasn't been copyrighted, it needs to be. What chef or homemaker doesn't want a Savage Mallet? 😏
Heck, i'd buy a whole range of kitchen appliances with the Savage name on them. The savage vegetable peeler. The savage meat slicer. The savage garlic press.
For the true Savage(tm) in the kitchen! ^-^
@@jeromethiel4323 Holy Cow! You've got all the angles figured out! You're like Elon Musk - without the emotional baggage and disgust factor.
Best wishes from Vermont 🍁
@@TheStockwell If only i owned a space company, oh what i would do with that! ^-^
5:30 bit spicy with that Forstner bit
Only thing I would do differently would have been how I managed the spacer pieces for the handle.. I would have glued them to the handle and shaped it with the contour of the end giving a round peg at the end.. or use the walnut to do what you did. Just personal preference though
Since he already has the mill, i would have just milled a perfect slot into the head of the hammer. Probably should have used a harder wood for the head, Maple, bloodwood, Ipe. Walnut is pretty soft for something with teeth on it. I always admire how he can do "quick and dirty" so well
@@davidliskey3553 I agree on the milling. As a kitchen tool I think walnut is plenty strong enough.
Great video Mr Adam sir you are awesome 😊
To prevent a wedge from falling out, you can glue it in with glue on only one side. As wood movement occurs, you won't potentially break both sides of the joint.
How long should wood be aged before using to make kitchen utensils/tools?
Anyone else notice the sandbelt turned on running to itself in the background with the drill sat next to it?
I was more surprised to see him wearing an Apple Watch Ultra than anything else😮
We have a black walnut tree in our yard. I heard they are worth a lot.
HAMMER?!?! I hardly know 'er!! :D
Do you use it for tenderising steak?
Yes, for cheaper cuts
Cool!
I. Need to work with you on a project for the birth of my grandsono!!
Thank you for hammering out this build. You nailed it.
Not sure why I was a bit disappointed the new hammerhead didn't retain the stock's cylindrical shape
Not only do you have a properly functional hammer, it is also a thing of beauty, which is also completely unique.
There is also a huge sense of satisfaction when you make something yourself.
Hide glue was a poor choice - it's not water/moisture resistant. The other design problem I noticed is this: the hole in the mallet head should be tapered with the open side being wider than the handle side. A wedge would then lock the handle in akin to a dovetail joint. Also, the slot and wedge need not be so darn wide!?!?
But this way he can make another video when this one falls apart. Content is king (and $$$)
no one cares. we're just adam savage fans. not carpentry purists.
Yeah I trust Adam WAY more then you lmao like who even are you man 😂😂😂
Who are you to tell Adam Savage how to make ANYTHING. 🤡
How many plugs could a plug cutter cut if a plug cutter could cut plugs?
How long does it take for the mineral oil to set up?
hammertime
I was thinking about making some mallets. Very cool. 🤓