(diy mechanic/tow truck operator here) My wife owns a 2012 CR-V 2.5L AWD. We just had a software update performed by Honda for $185 and I changed the transmission fluid myself. This solved the shudder problem. If you own this generation CRV and have the 30-40mph light acceleration shudder problem, software update + trans fluid change should fix your problem. If it does not, it may be the torque converter.
@@NelsonContreras-oe3fm it definitely needs it. It's pretty much a guaranteed issue for a 2012 CRV that's still on the road. Just take it to your nearest Honda service center. Takes 30 minutes and $185. The service technician immediately knew what I was talking about so it's a very common issue they see to. I did 2 pan flushes on the trans fluid myself. Drain the pan, refill the reservoir, drive it for a week, and do it again. You will need 4 qts of Honda transmission fluid per change. It's $10 per quart so $80 worth of fluid.
@@C0SM1CDUD3So I do the update, then I take out all the fluid from the transmission, I put 4 quarts in it, I drive it for a week, and I repeat the procedure again, are you sure it's 4 quarts, if so I'll do it tomorrow! thank you very much for your help!
I have to say I had major transmission issues 2014 CRV 260K Km at one point, it was rattling badly on a speed range 50-70 km/h.. A garage told me the car was about done, that the engine and transmission where in "end of life", its burning oil, look for a new one, etc. So I took matters in my own hands and changed the transmission fluid myself. Transmission rattling and problems 90% gone, much better reaction from the car. The old fluid was pretty dark btw. Had the timing chain redone by a Honda dealership ($$$) but that also helped get the car 100% back on track and took away other issues I had. Also and this is most important, weekly monitor the oil level with the dipstick (as the chain replacement was caused by overheating due to lack of oil at a certain point)
I followed your instructions. Everything went smooth, and the car is shifting perfect. I drove the 50 miles before the second drain and fill because the oil looked dirty on the first drain. The second drain came out much cleaner. I am happy to know Im running clean(er) fluid! Thanks for the easy to follow video.
I like how you first got your drain pan and put it in the way of sticking the ratchet drive and not a socket into the 3/8 plug hole. I just did this on my wife’s car on the ground and I did not need a breaker bar to break the plug loose because I was able to pull from the centerline of the ratchet to the front of the car. Oh yeah, I didn’t have a oil drain pan in my way!
Thanks! I've had the shudder "problem" for a good long while. Hopefully this will do the trick. I haven't had any problems with this car (2012 CRV) since I bought it about 4 years ago. I did have to change the starter, that was a bit annoying but I've done worse. I've liked and subscribed. I'll be back. Thanks again!
Just curious, when we drained and filled my CRV it drained about 4 Litres.. well above what Honda told me (2.6 Litres). I was kinda scared to only put back 2.6 litres when it drained that much.. so did the 4 litres.. planning to drain and fill again in a month or two. Any thoughts on this?
Excellent video, tx! In the title the word shudder caught my eye but you didn’t speak about it. Perhaps you will in another video? Also, your engine looks brand new. How about a short video on your process. 😊
The engine has not been detailed. I think it's just trick photography lol. The drain and fill of the transmission fixes most minor cases of shudder In the torque converters on this generation of CRV. It is pretty common that just doing a few drain and fills will completely solve the issue. If it has been allowed to go on too long the torque converter may have to be replaced
@@JackofAllMasterofNoneI have a 2014 with almost 140k miles and it’s had a shudder for the last 20-30k miles. It was a rebuilt vehicle when we got it at 69k miles and I thought the shudder (that started out only at low speeds after an upshift and barely touching the accelerator) was something to do with the wreck on the right front side. I have been chasing this shudder for a couple years now, and thought it was the outside CV axel. Then I saw the carrier bearing was messed up on the inner axel so I replaced that. It kept shuddering and started getting worse. I thought since I got a cheap aftermarket outer CV axel from Orielys that maybe that was the problem. I’m getting ready to sell this car, so I swapped that lifetime warranty axel from ORiely’s out again and it’s still having a shudder. If I stay on the accelerator it runs great, accelerates great, and doesn’t shudder but if I just drive miss daisy slow and easy it will do that shuddering thing. The tranny fluid has not been changed since we’ve had the car. Does this sound like the shuddering you’re talking about here? I have an appointment to have this done at the dealership for $129. I’m thinking about doing it myself now if it will get rid of the shuddering, but the reason I was going to use the dealership is instead of paying a diagnostic fee to have them figure out the problem I was going to use a transmission flush as the in for getting a free diagnostic in addition. I know from previous experience that dealerships will do diagnostics if you pay for something else being done. What do you think?
I have an 2008 AWD CRV. Has about 130k miles. Purchased at 115k. My 2007 was creamed while parked by an unconscious drugy, so I bought the 08. Anyway, unknown if the Tran fluid on the 2008 was ever changed. I was advised to leave it alone. Your opinion...What should I look for and do?
I just drained and filled the transmission fluid, I let it drain till it was done dripping. Put in almost 3 quarts of ATF and went on a twenty mile drive and came back. Checked the fluid and it was low, added more fluid and still a little low. Went on another 20 mile drive and ended up adding a total of 3 quarts and 8 ounces out of another quart. Am I missing something? Yes the vehicle was on a level garage floor.
What do you mean by fix the shudder? I have a 2012 CR-V that is saw\ying to change the transmission fluid and it shakes when switching gears sometimes.
Question, I have a 2012 CRV that has a shudder in 3rd, will the flush help this? I read something that said it *could* be the torque converter but can’t find anything backing it up. Also, if I am understanding correctly, to do a flush you drain and fill, then drive about 50 miles, then drain and fill and repeat?
Yes, it may help. Shudder in torque converter is common and is caused by bad fluid. I would do 3 drain and fills. Each time drive it for 40-50 miles and then do another drain and fill. It should help significantly. If not, it may be damaged and need replaced.
@@romanpeshkov8641 yes the flush seemed to help a ton! We have one more drain and fill to do and if we feel it come back even slightly we’re just going to let the shop hook it up to their machine and flush it and if that’s not it, on to the next step 🙃 new torque converter lol.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone we did the drain and fill and drained what looked like inaccurate fluid. It was very thick and purple and I’ve always been under the assumption that trans fluid is red. We do feel an improvement and sometimes feel the shudder but it’s gone away for the most part. We will do one more drain and fill and if that doesn’t fix we may have the shop hook it up to their machine or just replace whatever part is needed.
Hey i just changed mine but 4.6L came out. Note that the car wasnt levelled it was jacked on the driver side, should i put what came out or put what manual says which is 2.7L? Thanks
Well you really need to start with 2.7 and then check the dipstick and add as necessary. To read a Honda you do it with the transmission warm and vehicle off
@@JackofAllMasterofNone i was scared to put 2.7 since 4.6 came out. But youre right it overfilled like crazy! I ended up putting close to 3L. Good thing there was no damage to the transmission, it shifts super smooth now with the new fluid. Will do another drain/fill this weekend.
Hice un cambio de aceite aun Honda crv 2013, y sol ha pasado un mes y ya me esta pidiendo otra vez el cambio de aceite de motor, porque lo pidió tan rapido sin llegar a las millas establecida para el cambio o el tiempo?
Hey so my honda crv 2013 has had no problems until about 2 days ago when the d indicator on the dashboard started blinking green and now the engine light is on any advice i can have
If the d was flashing and the engine light came on there is a code. You have to have an advanced code reader to be able to read Honda transmission codes
Great video 👍. I heard jerk sound quite hard when you shift the gear from N to R. Is it normal? Or it sign of bad transmission or something else. Thank you for ur answer. 09:52
Thank you so much give me a quick feedback. I did a only transmission fluid change did not touch the external filter for my 2014 CRV around 2 months ago, but I heard the strange sound from the transmission when drive on a low speed under 100 KM/H@@JackofAllMasterofNone
Just do it then again in 15,000 you should of done at 85,00p then every 30,000. If you kept it full amd don't haul a lot of wilait if pull trailers you might be OK. Just check it once a week
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Yes, and don't use a cheap socket from Harbor Freight. I broke off the socket when I did this. I had to get a 90 degree bit holder to drill a hole in the broken off part, add a little heat, then use a snap ring pliers to get it out.
You said you were going to change the fluid, drive it 50 miles or so and then do the flush again but you didn't show the "again" part. Does that mean draining the fluid again and replacing it or draining it and just putting it back in? In other words, am I buying 3 quarts or 6 quarts?
The plastic shield is there to direct cooling for components and also to cut down on "wind noise" . You pick and choose what you do "base on Honda recommendations" and then leave shields off. Not cool! It's on it from the factory- Put it back on!
You picked a real lemon. In addition to the shutter at low torque you will also find significant oil consumption. The rapid oil burning causes the timing chain to dry out and stretch which causes the rattle on engine start. The rattle will be greatly reduced after the engine oil is filled to the max. I wouldn't believe anything that Honda states.
I have a 2014 CRV with 135K miles. It burns only a little oil, not enough to dry out to dry out the timing chain. Also, I have had the rattle since I bought the car 3 years ago and it has not been getting worse and is NOT caused by the timing chain. There is an automatic timing advance system that has a spring that looses tension and causes the rattle. Other than the rattle, I have not had any other problems with the car. As a matter of fact, it's one of the nicest cars I have ever owned and I've owned quite a few over my 71 years. Not a "real lemon"!
You don't have to. In fact, the HONDA service manual does not call for the filter to be changed. They are lifetime. I recommend they be changed if you have a lot of miles or other issues. Not necessary for routine drain and fill
@@JackofAllMasterofNone so when the dealership does it in one service appointment so they flush it multiple times? Can I just do it once to be better than nothing?
I bought 6 quarts from the Honda dealer, dropped the dirty fluid (now at 80K) added 3 quarts, and my wife has been driving it for 2 weeks now, so I'll drop it again today, once she gets back home later, and all is done.
(diy mechanic/tow truck operator here) My wife owns a 2012 CR-V 2.5L AWD. We just had a software update performed by Honda for $185 and I changed the transmission fluid myself. This solved the shudder problem. If you own this generation CRV and have the 30-40mph light acceleration shudder problem, software update + trans fluid change should fix your problem. If it does not, it may be the torque converter.
I have the same problem, how can you see that about the update? I have a 2012 Honda CRV and I would like to do what you did.
@@NelsonContreras-oe3fm it definitely needs it. It's pretty much a guaranteed issue for a 2012 CRV that's still on the road. Just take it to your nearest Honda service center. Takes 30 minutes and $185. The service technician immediately knew what I was talking about so it's a very common issue they see to.
I did 2 pan flushes on the trans fluid myself. Drain the pan, refill the reservoir, drive it for a week, and do it again.
You will need 4 qts of Honda transmission fluid per change. It's $10 per quart so $80 worth of fluid.
@@C0SM1CDUD3So I do the update, then I take out all the fluid from the transmission, I put 4 quarts in it, I drive it for a week, and I repeat the procedure again, are you sure it's 4 quarts, if so I'll do it tomorrow! thank you very much for your help!
lol oh great! Mother just got one, and I feel it. So gonna look into software update and fluid
I have the same problem with my CRV 2012 . What should I do ? ?HELP PLEASE 🙏🏼😘
I have to say I had major transmission issues 2014 CRV 260K Km at one point, it was rattling badly on a speed range 50-70 km/h.. A garage told me the car was about done, that the engine and transmission where in "end of life", its burning oil, look for a new one, etc.
So I took matters in my own hands and changed the transmission fluid myself. Transmission rattling and problems 90% gone, much better reaction from the car. The old fluid was pretty dark btw. Had the timing chain redone by a Honda dealership ($$$) but that also helped get the car 100% back on track and took away other issues I had.
Also and this is most important, weekly monitor the oil level with the dipstick (as the chain replacement was caused by overheating due to lack of oil at a certain point)
I followed your instructions. Everything went smooth, and the car is shifting perfect. I drove the 50 miles before the second drain and fill because the oil looked dirty on the first drain. The second drain came out much cleaner. I am happy to know Im running clean(er) fluid! Thanks for the easy to follow video.
Great job!
I like how you first got your drain pan and put it in the way of sticking the ratchet drive and not a socket into the 3/8 plug hole. I just did this on my wife’s car on the ground and I did not need a breaker bar to break the plug loose because I was able to pull from the centerline of the ratchet to the front of the car. Oh yeah, I didn’t have a oil drain pan in my way!
Thanks! I've had the shudder "problem" for a good long while. Hopefully this will do the trick. I haven't had any problems with this car (2012 CRV) since I bought it about 4 years ago. I did have to change the starter, that was a bit annoying but I've done worse.
I've liked and subscribed. I'll be back. Thanks again!
Muchas gracias saludos desde Argentina Buenos Aires!
Great video! Cheap maintenance insurance.
Just curious, when we drained and filled my CRV it drained about 4 Litres.. well above what Honda told me (2.6 Litres). I was kinda scared to only put back 2.6 litres when it drained that much.. so did the 4 litres.. planning to drain and fill again in a month or two. Any thoughts on this?
You were not level or you can't read fluid levels.
Can you explain the purpose to drive for 2 days and repeat the process, and 3 quarts doesn't harm the transmission. Tanks for your help
To mix up the new fluid.
Excellent video, tx! In the title the word shudder caught my eye but you didn’t speak about it. Perhaps you will in another video? Also, your engine looks brand new. How about a short video on your process. 😊
The engine has not been detailed. I think it's just trick photography lol. The drain and fill of the transmission fixes most minor cases of shudder In the torque converters on this generation of CRV. It is pretty common that just doing a few drain and fills will completely solve the issue. If it has been allowed to go on too long the torque converter may have to be replaced
@@JackofAllMasterofNoneI have a 2014 with almost 140k miles and it’s had a shudder for the last 20-30k miles. It was a rebuilt vehicle when we got it at 69k miles and I thought the shudder (that started out only at low speeds after an upshift and barely touching the accelerator) was something to do with the wreck on the right front side. I have been chasing this shudder for a couple years now, and thought it was the outside CV axel. Then I saw the carrier bearing was messed up on the inner axel so I replaced that. It kept shuddering and started getting worse. I thought since I got a cheap aftermarket outer CV axel from Orielys that maybe that was the problem. I’m getting ready to sell this car, so I swapped that lifetime warranty axel from ORiely’s out again and it’s still having a shudder. If I stay on the accelerator it runs great, accelerates great, and doesn’t shudder but if I just drive miss daisy slow and easy it will do that shuddering thing. The tranny fluid has not been changed since we’ve had the car. Does this sound like the shuddering you’re talking about here? I have an appointment to have this done at the dealership for $129. I’m thinking about doing it myself now if it will get rid of the shuddering, but the reason I was going to use the dealership is instead of paying a diagnostic fee to have them figure out the problem I was going to use a transmission flush as the in for getting a free diagnostic in addition. I know from previous experience that dealerships will do diagnostics if you pay for something else being done. What do you think?
I’ve been seeing the shudder issue with the 2014 CRV and the torque converter thing.
How can the flush be done 3 times if you pay someone to do it??
flush fill drive. Lather rinse repeat 3 times
Very well explained........
I have an 2008 AWD CRV. Has about 130k miles. Purchased at 115k. My 2007 was creamed while parked by an unconscious drugy, so I bought the 08. Anyway, unknown if the Tran fluid on the 2008 was ever changed. I was advised to leave it alone. Your opinion...What should I look for and do?
Do not leave it alone. Change it a few times. I hate that horrible advice that people like to give. Honda transmissions are different
First time DIY... How do you jack up the Honda CRV? Recommendations for what equipment to use at home? Also what drip pan are you using? Thank you.
I have two sets of ramps and it makes working on the car so much easier plus it’s level which is so important.
@@Gretzky2857 That's actually a great idea. thx
I just drained and filled the transmission fluid, I let it drain till it was done dripping. Put in almost 3 quarts of ATF and went on a twenty mile drive and came back. Checked the fluid and it was low, added more fluid and still a little low. Went on another 20 mile drive and ended up adding a total of 3 quarts and 8 ounces out of another quart. Am I missing something? Yes the vehicle was on a level garage floor.
That's ok. Not much more than spec. Could just be a slight difference in your dipstick. Maybe bent slightly.
Thank you for the response and the DIY video.
I don’t have a fork to pick up my car like that so it would be OK to have it lifted from the front??
Has to be level so would need to jack up all 4 corners
What do you mean by fix the shudder? I have a 2012 CR-V that is saw\ying to change the transmission fluid and it shakes when switching gears sometimes.
Torque converter shudder, if caught early, can usually be remedied by changing the fluid.
Question, I have a 2012 CRV that has a shudder in 3rd, will the flush help this? I read something that said it *could* be the torque converter but can’t find anything backing it up. Also, if I am understanding correctly, to do a flush you drain and fill, then drive about 50 miles, then drain and fill and repeat?
It is AWD by the way
Yes, it may help. Shudder in torque converter is common and is caused by bad fluid. I would do 3 drain and fills. Each time drive it for 40-50 miles and then do another drain and fill. It should help significantly. If not, it may be damaged and need replaced.
Hey, did you ever figure out that shudder in 3rd? I have a 2012 CRV with the exact same issue. Hoping that maybe this flush would help.
@@romanpeshkov8641 yes the flush seemed to help a ton! We have one more drain and fill to do and if we feel it come back even slightly we’re just going to let the shop hook it up to their machine and flush it and if that’s not it, on to the next step 🙃 new torque converter lol.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone we did the drain and fill and drained what looked like inaccurate fluid. It was very thick and purple and I’ve always been under the assumption that trans fluid is red. We do feel an improvement and sometimes feel the shudder but it’s gone away for the most part. We will do one more drain and fill and if that doesn’t fix we may have the shop hook it up to their machine or just replace whatever part is needed.
Hey i just changed mine but 4.6L came out. Note that the car wasnt levelled it was jacked on the driver side, should i put what came out or put what manual says which is 2.7L? Thanks
Well you really need to start with 2.7 and then check the dipstick and add as necessary. To read a Honda you do it with the transmission warm and vehicle off
@@JackofAllMasterofNone i was scared to put 2.7 since 4.6 came out. But youre right it overfilled like crazy! I ended up putting close to 3L. Good thing there was no damage to the transmission, it shifts super smooth now with the new fluid. Will do another drain/fill this weekend.
Hice un cambio de aceite aun Honda crv 2013, y sol ha pasado un mes y ya me esta pidiendo otra vez el cambio de aceite de motor, porque lo pidió tan rapido sin llegar a las millas establecida para el cambio o el tiempo?
Probably forget to reset the maintenance minder. It's in the instrument cluster settings.
Exactamente, eso hice hoy. gracias. Pero si me preocupe , pensé que era un problema de motor.
How much exactly fluid did you add? Thanks for the video.
Rude service - he just put 3 qts - instead of 2.7
Thanks for the video, I have the same car and I wanted to ask you if that transmission does not have a filter, greetings.
It does have a filter, but it's not like a regular Ford or Chevy transmission. It's an inline filter and is not designed to be changed regularly.
Oye en Colombia ponen 4 de aceite. Tu pones solo 3. Que es lo correcto ?
Gracias.
It is 2.7 quarts for AWD. 2.3 quarts for 2wd.
great video , to the point .
I used Idemitsu Type-H Plus fluid no problem at all.
That is the same as Honda fluid. So good choice
Hey so my honda crv 2013 has had no problems until about 2 days ago when the d indicator on the dashboard started blinking green and now the engine light is on any advice i can have
First thing is to read the codes and see what the issue is.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone no code is coming up
If the d was flashing and the engine light came on there is a code. You have to have an advanced code reader to be able to read Honda transmission codes
Great video 👍. I heard jerk sound quite hard when you shift the gear from N to R. Is it normal? Or it sign of bad transmission or something else. Thank you for ur answer. 09:52
That was not the transmission. It was the tires shifting on the floor.
I just changed the oil on my car gearbox and it has a squeak when entering reverse gear
I did not see you change the external filter. Is it necessary
Honda does not recommend changing it unless the transmission is rebuilt or extremely high miles
Thank you so much give me a quick feedback. I did a only transmission fluid change did not touch the external filter for my 2014 CRV around 2 months ago, but I heard the strange sound from the transmission when drive on a low speed under 100 KM/H@@JackofAllMasterofNone
Do you do one on the VVT?
Kind of
ruclips.net/video/6dS-OyLghMc/видео.html
What happens if you use Valvoline
Don't. It could cause torque converter shudder
What happens if you already have shudder and use valvoline?
My 2014 i bought 18 months ago with 65k. Now it has 180k. I have a long hwy drive to work. I was told its too late to touch fluid. Should i do this?
Change the fluid. Honda transmissions are different. You can bring them back to life doing a fluid change. It definitely wont hurt it
Just do it then again in 15,000 you should of done at 85,00p then every 30,000. If you kept it full amd don't haul a lot of wilait if pull trailers you might be OK. Just check it once a week
What size is the drain plug, to break it loose?
3/8 socket square.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Yes, and don't use a cheap socket from Harbor Freight. I broke off the socket when I did this. I had to get a 90 degree bit holder to drill a hole in the broken off part, add a little heat, then use a snap ring pliers to get it out.
You said you were going to change the fluid, drive it 50 miles or so and then do the flush again but you didn't show the "again" part. Does that mean draining the fluid again and replacing it or draining it and just putting it back in? In other words, am I buying 3 quarts or 6 quarts?
You are buying six quarts. You have to do the drain and fill twice with driving in between
Good job. Thanks
Great job
So I took my drain plug out and it did NOT have a crush washer installed....
seems rather bizarre.
It's there. They bond to the bolt when crushed
The plastic shield is there to direct cooling for components and also to cut down on "wind noise" . You pick and choose what you do "base on Honda recommendations" and then leave shields off. Not cool! It's on it from the factory- Put it back on!
What about the torque converter?
What about it?
El filtro por que no lo cambia ?
Because is not a part of Honda recommended maintenance
You picked a real lemon. In addition to the shutter at low torque you will also find significant oil consumption. The rapid oil burning causes the timing chain to dry out and stretch which causes the rattle on engine start. The rattle will be greatly reduced after the engine oil is filled to the max. I wouldn't believe anything that Honda states.
Watch my other video
ruclips.net/video/6dS-OyLghMc/видео.htmlsi=7mBLB_yx7ks_mMel
Think I bought this bc everything you are saying is what I have going on right now
I have a 2014 CRV with 135K miles. It burns only a little oil, not enough to dry out to dry out the timing chain. Also, I have had the rattle since I bought the car 3 years ago and it has not been getting worse and is NOT caused by the timing chain. There is an automatic timing advance system that has a spring that looses tension and causes the rattle. Other than the rattle, I have not had any other problems with the car. As a matter of fact, it's one of the nicest cars I have ever owned and I've owned quite a few over my 71 years. Not a "real lemon"!
Sounds like yall are talking about the vct actuator screaming. No lemon
You have to change the filters.
You don't have to. In fact, the HONDA service manual does not call for the filter to be changed. They are lifetime. I recommend they be changed if you have a lot of miles or other issues. Not necessary for routine drain and fill
Did this fix anyones shudder problem?
Mine. 😁
omg ..... ez...
so did you repeat this procedure that day? So really you used 6 quarts of fluid total?
Correct. I drove it around for a while and did it again.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone so when the dealership does it in one service appointment so they flush it multiple times? Can I just do it once to be better than nothing?
I bought 6 quarts from the Honda dealer, dropped the dirty fluid (now at 80K) added 3 quarts, and my wife has been driving it for 2 weeks now, so I'll drop it again today, once she gets back home later, and all is done.
Heck yes. I do it every 50,000 or so. But that's just me. it's definitely much, much better than not doing it at all.@@markettrader911