Great video man. Another tip for us 997.1 owners is when you have pulled the old oil filter out, cut it in half and inspect that it doesn't have tiny powdery looking bits of metal in it. If it does......it's a early sign of the rare but concerning IMS issue.
Great video, easier than what I expected it to be. I would recommend removing the oil filler cap before doing the oil change it creates a sucking in the engine and you might not be removing all of the old oil.
Nesty G I would recommend taking it to a dealer and having everything stamps by a professional this is the problem with these RUclipsrs it seems that everyone with These days with the phone thinks they are either models photographers film producers mechanics and doctors when really they are just fuck all
@@thisnthat4318 The dealer will charge an arm & leg for what's a simple process. This guy did a good job, good pics and thorough explanation. Thru his video lots of folks will get confidence to do some of the simpler maintenance items. Good on him!
@@thisnthat4318 literally nothing about the quality of the oil change would have been different. They normally give the oil change and rotation jobs to the non certified new techs at many dealerships.
@Scott F Oh please. Try showing some empathy for those that want to aspire to be more than they currently are (or can currently afford). Just stfu Scott.
This was very helpful. Thank you! Had you done this a year ago I would have saved some money. The other RUclips videos make it seem too complicated or they didn't get enough relevant advice. So.. great job!
Very helpful! Followed the steps and got this done in a breeze on my 08 CS. Might want to mention the "low oil pressure" warning upon the first startup after the change. Seems to be systematic but normal. Thanks again!!
I'm in the market for an 2008 to 2010 911 or targa 4S. I hope the oil change is just as easy on them. Thanks for the video. It was quite pleasing to watch!
Great job! Helpful as well. 2 suggestions - you may want to open the oil filler cap when draining to increase amount of oil that drains. Also, recommend replacing crush washer with each change. They are very inexpensive. Especially when compared to the cost of an M96 engine :)
Do the research on using Mobil 1 on Porsche and look at RennList about using Mobil1. "almost exclusively, ALL 997.1 M97 engines seen with cylinder scoring were using 0W40 Mobil 1 engine oil... strongly recommended against it, and essentially must only use Motul, Total, or Lubro Moly 5W40 on these engines to protect the coating. Do research on Cylinder Bore Scoring, it is the #1 leading cause of misdiagnosed engine failures on these vehicles.
Using gloves while working on cars is not dumb, you had mentioned someone make fun of. Those people are idiots. Our bodies are sponges when it comes to liquids/fluids. I once had a drop of oil disappear in the palm of my hand in seconds. My buddy got sick for not using gloves.
What about reseting the maintenance light. Did we just forget about that or is that a case of just put a piece of tape over that so you don't need to look at it.
Unfortunately, there’s no way to reset the light without a module to flip the flag in the car’s computer. There are a few options, with one of the popular ones being the Durametric unit. Here’s one example www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/DURAENTH2.htm?pn=DURA-ENTH-2
Great video :) BTW, if you warm up the car, the oil level check time is shortened, instead of 30min it can be 5min with a drive around the block or two. I'm guessing you just started your car up and let it idle for a minute or two?
I was checking the oil level on my 997. Checked it cold and it said low. I added a small amount (not even a quart) and checked again. Now it shows high. Will I damage the car with too much oil? Best to check hot or cold?
How do you reset/remove the “service now” message on the instrument cluster? I need to replace my tires, what setup do you have? I’m interested in the Michelin Pilot sport 4s. Thanks.
Unfortunately, there’s no way to reset the service light without plugging a compatible tool into the OBD2 port. You can always have the dealer do this, otherwise there are aftermarket products like the Durametric device, for DIYers. It costs a little under $300 and gives you access to most of the functionality in the system. You cannot simply use any generic OBD2 reader to reset the light, it must be a Porsche compatible device like the Durametric. As for tires, there’s no shortage of opinions out there! Michelins are often at the top of the list, including the Super Sports and Pilot Sport PS2 (for summer tires). I’m currently running Pilot Sports and have been happy with them.
Save your cashola Carrera fans...i recently ran the Hankook ventus 12 for 550.00 delivered after the 100.00 rebate from Tire rack.com.No body btw their prices in any major city. The installation and high speed balance at most shops was an additional 80 to 100 bucks.The Hankook tires were absolutely amazing in the mountain twisties of east San Diego and were half the price of the over rated PS2 Michelin's.I only got roughly 12,000 miles out of them before they were toast but all my miles were on mountain roads while high speed cornering into 30 mph turns at 65 plus...Wow were they kick fucking ass... very grippy and sticky with very few squeals...I was super impressed since Palomar mountain is world famous and one of the top motorcycle and sport car runs in the nation.Keep in mind sports fans i am in my mid 50's and a addicted adrenaline junky that has had over 25 sport bikes and have lived in southern cal for 20 plus years.Top rated tires on bikes last around 3 to 4k if you are crushing corners every week and not commuting to and from work.I just ordered the Sumitomo HTZ 111 that i also ran on a 2001 996 5 years ago and was very happy but sold the car before i could give the tires a hard core rating.This tire also got great reviews from Porsche board members around the internet forums so I will update my review once i hammer Palomar Mnt during the next month.
Nice video Rob. Enjoyed your easy to follow content. I’m entertaining the notion of picking up a 997 and like seeing diy vids like this. Keep up the good work. New subscriber as well👍🏻
Great video and beautiful C2 BTW,! But you really didn’t go over the electronic oil gauge reading, post oil change. Do you have a video that goes over the oil level gauge in more detail? I just got an ‘08 C4S same cold scheme as yours 👍 I’ll read my manual to see if I can find the specifics. Thanks!
A great video I just changed the oil in my car for the first time after 10 years of ownership it’s very satisfying to be able to do your own work one question I use a Mann oil filter from Amazon Which was specified for my 2006 997 I pushed it up but it didn’t click is that a problem I’ve driven the car and everything seems fine I pushed and pushed but I couldn’t get the filter to click like in the video Thank you again !
Congratulations on a job well done! Mann is a great filter, I often use them and also Mahle. When you push the filter up, it should stay in place. You may not hear a click, but it will want to stay up there if you get it seated correctly, and will resist a mild tug down.
I haven't found it necessary to (partially) fill the oil filter housing with oil before re-installation, but some do so. For your second question, there is a metal "crush washer" between the drain plug and the engine. It is recommended to use a new one at each oil change, and re-installation of the drain plug without the crush washer will lead to oil drips. I have links in the video description to all the parts required, for easy reference.
Motors, Megabytes, & Mods hi, I'm not associated with the channel owner but from my 7 yrs with Mercedes Benz and working with exotic vehicles at random times. It is recommended to always replace the crush ring...if you really have to and I do mean IF YOU CANT REPLACE IT then yes you may reuse it one time. Always replace the OEM oil filter O-rings too.
hee nice video But i have a question since porsche uses dry sump lubrication. when you drain the oil pan does the oil in the reservoir located on the right side in the rear bumper stay in the reservoir ? or does it drain along with the pan . if not the old oil in the right side reservoir is contaminating the fresh oil right? i know im typing this question awkward but english isn't my main language .
The earlier models, like the 1964-1989 911s, have the extra reservoir you mention with its own drain plug (in addition to the main plug on the bottom of the engine). In the 997, all oil comes out of the single drain plug on the bottom of the engine. The 996s (1999-2004) are the same way, and I'm guessing this continues all the way through the current generation of 911s.
Hey man I'm previous 2005 boxster owner and I did IMS upgrade and sold like 2 weeks ago now I'm buying 2005 carrera with 47k miles and I want to know if u have replaced IMS bearing
+N/A soundsSoGood ironically, I was on the way to the shop to get my ims bearing upgraded when it failed. This was at 25k miles, and I had an outstanding experience with Jack Daniels Porsche and Porsche NA wherein they replaced the engine. IMS discussion is like religion to many people, but ultimately it’s up to you to determine whether it’s worth the investment to swap it out. The labor is duplicative for replacing a clutch, so some people replace the IMS when it’s clutch time.
Amazing and simple video, thank you! 2 Questions: I didn't see you adding a new Drain Plug Gasket and I also didn't notice the place it would go into. Second, wouldn't it be nice to have a Magnetic Drain Plug to preemptively check for IMS bearing issues? Thanks!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! For your questions; 1) there is an aluminum washer that acts as a gasket for the drain plug. If you install the drain plug without this washer, you're almost guaranteed to get drips. It's recommended that you use a new washer each time, but I have reused the old one a few times in the past without any leaks. 2) A magnetic drain plug does give you another metric for the health of your engine. It likely won't do you much good as a check for the IMS bearing if you're only investigating at oil changes, but there is magnetic plug available that is wired to a light. Once it detects a certain amount of metal, it lights up inside the car. Theoretically, it could potentially save yourself from impending doom from an IMS failure, but I wouldn't count on that, either. Some owners send their oil in for analysis as another indicator of engine health.
Hi, I have a 2006 Carrerra 3.6, and was just curious when your car is warmed up (175 degrees) and at idle what is your Oil Pressure Reading? Mine usually is between 1.25 to 1.5 Bar. Of course once I drive the Oil Pressure can go up to 4 to 4.5 depending on the revs. Was just curious if 1.25 bar for oil pressure is low at idle?
+Cobey Huish I'm not sure what is typical for other owners, but I get around 2.5 bar at idle when fully warm and around 80F. Typical driving puts me at 4.5-5 bar. I'm running Mobil 1 0W-40 oil, for reference, and I also have a 3.6.
I should have been more diligent in the video discussing the drain plug gasket. You definitely need that or you will get oil drips (more than you’ll likely want to live with). I’ve found you don’t necessarily need to replace the gasket every time, but you definitely need it.
The one I have is 6” tall and has a pretty big capacity (probably 4 gallons?). I tried versions in the past that weren’t completely open, and the oil came out of the car faster than it could flow through the hole on the top of the oil pan, so I stuck with open. This one on amazon looks somewhat similar to mine amzn.to/2KpGEj2
Good catch, I should have called it out in the video. I reused the existing crush washer in this instance, and replace it every couple of changes or so. If you don’t use a washer, you’ll most likely get oil drips.
Motors, Megabytes, & Mods so I change my oil... looks like 7 quarts came out of the car and I added about 7 back in... when I check the oil level after getting the car up to operating temp I still show low... I don’t want to put too much and risk damaging the seals... any advice on when and what temp to check oil level? I would think it would be at warmer temps than cold starts.
+Russell DeJulio I have not found it necessary to fill the oil cartridge/filter with oil prior to reinstallation. I've seen a few people mention it, but I don't believe it is commons practice.
Thank you for the response that would be a potentially messy process ! I am trying to get the courage up to try it . I serviced all my BMW's but this is my first 911 and everything appears to be challenging to me. Its been dealer maintained a GREAT Dealer but I would like to at least do my own oil changes . BEST ! Russ
+Russell DeJulio there are definitely some challenging elements to working on 911's, but they made oil changes very simple. The drain plug is right next to the oil filter housing, and you don't need to remove any protective plates to get to either. There's also no danger of the oil leaking on/down an underbody sheet metal plate, like I struggled with on my 2007 BMW 328i. Filling is also easy on this car with the articulating oil fill "tube". Space under the car is a little tight if you don't jack it up or use ramps, but I was able to shimmy under there with a huge amount of difficulty. I'm not sure what year 911 you have, but the oil change process is the same from '99-2008. It changes a bit in 2009 with the switch to DFI engines, but the principle is the same. Don't forget the metal crush washer on the drain plug or you'll get oil drips (I didn't make a note of this in the video).
Yes, great call out that I should have drawn attention to in the video! If you leave that washer off of the drain plug, you will almost certainly get oil drips.
Doing the job yourself, more than pays for the cost of the tools, oil and filter after just the first oil change, vs paying a dealership for parts & labor.
Edgar Arenas at Mercedes Benz we charge $150 not including parts. So the concept of profits for Mercedes is from a sale commission so find THE MOST ridiculous price but avoid telling the customers it is a WIX filter. So labor is added, oh hey oil disposal is from for us but the dealership will charge a customer $25. But hey, you get a complimentary wash and vacuum. (Half assed done) if you really watch them do it
Unfortunately, you need a tool that plugs into the OBD2 port, such as a Durametric. A cheaper alternative is iCarSoft Por II, but I don’t have personal experience with that tool.
Technically, it’s recommended to replace it each time. In practice, I’ve reused it many times over the years and have been fortunate enough to not have experienced any leaks.
IMHO he should have let it drain longer. He left a lot of dirty oil in the engine. I always change my own oil and let it drip at least an hour. But that’s just me.
This is a perfect example of why so many supercars blowup and that’s home mechanics and RUclipsrs teaching other RUclipsrs to be mechanics..... if you can’t afford to take your super car to the dealer stick to the hatchbacks
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video man. Another tip for us 997.1 owners is when you have pulled the old oil filter out, cut it in half and inspect that it doesn't have tiny powdery looking bits of metal in it. If it does......it's a early sign of the rare but concerning IMS issue.
It's good measure to replace the IMS bearing when you replace the clutch.
Or buy a Japanese car,
@@danrook5757Gross
Great video, easier than what I expected it to be. I would recommend removing the oil filler cap before doing the oil change it creates a sucking in the engine and you might not be removing all of the old oil.
Nesty G I would recommend taking it to a dealer and having everything stamps by a professional this is the problem with these RUclipsrs it seems that everyone with These days with the phone thinks they are either models photographers film producers mechanics and doctors when really they are just fuck all
@@thisnthat4318 The dealer will charge an arm & leg for what's a simple process. This guy did a good job, good pics and thorough explanation. Thru his video lots of folks will get confidence to do some of the simpler maintenance items. Good on him!
@@markg4459 don’t buy a porsche if you can’t afford to service it...
@@thisnthat4318 literally nothing about the quality of the oil change would have been different. They normally give the oil change and rotation jobs to the non certified new techs at many dealerships.
@Scott F Oh please. Try showing some empathy for those that want to aspire to be more than they currently are (or can currently afford). Just stfu Scott.
Just picked up my 2005 997 yesterday. Thanks for the video.
This was very helpful. Thank you! Had you done this a year ago I would have saved some money. The other RUclips videos make it seem too complicated or they didn't get enough relevant advice. So.. great job!
Nice video. If you turn the key to just before ignition, the oil level will be displayed.
nice to see an oil change video with the car not on a hoist......nice video. Local shops want about $230 for an oil change on my 996.
Excellent video. Thanks , I am currently purchasing an 2008 997.1 4S. I am I south Jersey across from Philly. I can’t wait!
Very helpful! Followed the steps and got this done in a breeze on my 08 CS. Might want to mention the "low oil pressure" warning upon the first startup after the change. Seems to be systematic but normal. Thanks again!!
+Francois Balland excellent, I'm happy it was helpful!
I'm in the market for an 2008 to 2010 911 or targa 4S. I hope the oil change is just as easy on them. Thanks for the video. It was quite pleasing to watch!
Great job! Helpful as well. 2 suggestions - you may want to open the oil filler cap when draining to increase amount of oil that drains. Also, recommend replacing crush washer with each change. They are very inexpensive. Especially when compared to the cost of an M96 engine :)
Do the research on using Mobil 1 on Porsche and look at RennList about using Mobil1. "almost exclusively, ALL 997.1 M97 engines seen with cylinder scoring were using 0W40 Mobil 1 engine oil... strongly recommended against it, and essentially must only use Motul, Total, or Lubro Moly 5W40 on these engines to protect the coating. Do research on Cylinder Bore Scoring, it is the #1 leading cause of misdiagnosed engine failures on these vehicles.
That car has only seen summer use, too clean underneath and no surface rust. Lovely car dude your lucky 🍀 man.
B4 u do the drain u may want to tap on torx bolt while on ratchet .I stripped my torx hole because it was overtightened apparently b4
I have a piece of cardboard to lay on. It really improves the comfort.
That's what I was going to say. It collects any drips too.
Don’t go buy recommend oil quantity. Always go by the oil level sensor given in the dash display
I hope this is a joke
I have that exact same yellow drain pan and can’t remember where I got it from. Do you recall?
Using gloves while working on cars is not dumb, you had mentioned someone make fun of. Those people are idiots. Our bodies are sponges when it comes to liquids/fluids. I once had a drop of oil disappear in the palm of my hand in seconds. My buddy got sick for not using gloves.
Agree on this!! Rub garlic on the soles of your feet, and within about 30 minutes, your breath will smell of garlic. Enough said!
Simple case in point….how does a nicotine patch work then?..
Let that sink in for a moment…NO pun intended!! 😁
What about reseting the maintenance light. Did we just forget about that or is that a case of just put a piece of tape over that so you don't need to look at it.
Unfortunately, there’s no way to reset the light without a module to flip the flag in the car’s computer. There are a few options, with one of the popular ones being the Durametric unit. Here’s one example www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/DURAENTH2.htm?pn=DURA-ENTH-2
Great video :)
BTW, if you warm up the car, the oil level check time is shortened,
instead of 30min it can be 5min with a drive around the block or two.
I'm guessing you just started your car up and let it idle for a minute or two?
+Jh um you're correct, that was a cold start right after the oil change.
THANK YOU for a straight to the point video. I have SUBSCRIBED!!!
Is there a maintenance (oil change) warning light that has to be reset on the 997.1?
every mechanics I talked with told me that BMWs are a dream to work on too.
Awesome video bro!
Thanks, Ben!
I was checking the oil level on my 997. Checked it cold and it said low. I added a small amount (not even a quart) and checked again. Now it shows high. Will I damage the car with too much oil? Best to check hot or cold?
Compared to 991, 997 seems much easier to make oil change by yourself. I like how they placed oil filter down there.
People dont know how easy some luxury cars are to change the oil
Nice vid 👌did oil drain plug have a washer ? Mine didn't on the plug I wonder if it's stuck in the hole..
How do you reset/remove the “service now” message on the instrument cluster? I need to replace my tires, what setup do you have? I’m interested in the Michelin Pilot sport 4s. Thanks.
Unfortunately, there’s no way to reset the service light without plugging a compatible tool into the OBD2 port. You can always have the dealer do this, otherwise there are aftermarket products like the Durametric device, for DIYers. It costs a little under $300 and gives you access to most of the functionality in the system. You cannot simply use any generic OBD2 reader to reset the light, it must be a Porsche compatible device like the Durametric.
As for tires, there’s no shortage of opinions out there! Michelins are often at the top of the list, including the Super Sports and Pilot Sport PS2 (for summer tires). I’m currently running Pilot Sports and have been happy with them.
Also, I don’t have personal experience with Pilot Sport 4S, but I’ve heard very good things about them.
Save your cashola Carrera fans...i recently ran the Hankook ventus 12 for 550.00 delivered after the 100.00 rebate from Tire rack.com.No body btw their prices in any major city. The installation and high speed balance at most shops was an additional 80 to 100 bucks.The Hankook tires were absolutely amazing in the mountain twisties of east San Diego and were half the price of the over rated PS2 Michelin's.I only got roughly 12,000 miles out of them before they were toast but all my miles were on mountain roads while high speed cornering into 30 mph turns at 65 plus...Wow were they kick fucking ass... very grippy and sticky with very few squeals...I was super impressed since Palomar mountain is world famous and one of the top motorcycle and sport car runs in the nation.Keep in mind sports fans i am in my mid 50's and a addicted adrenaline junky that has had over 25 sport bikes and have lived in southern cal for 20 plus years.Top rated tires on bikes last around 3 to 4k if you are crushing corners every week and not commuting to and from work.I just ordered the Sumitomo HTZ 111 that i also ran on a 2001 996 5 years ago and was very happy but sold the car before i could give the tires a hard core rating.This tire also got great reviews from Porsche board members around the internet forums so I will update my review once i hammer Palomar Mnt during the next month.
Nice video Rob. Enjoyed your easy to follow content. I’m entertaining the notion of picking up a 997 and like seeing diy vids like this. Keep up the good work. New subscriber as well👍🏻
Thanks for the compliment! The 997 is a really fun car and a lot of the basic maintenance isn't difficult. Enjoy the hunt!
Stupid question, but where do you put the old oil?
Local auto parts stores usually take it (like Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc)
@@motorsmegabytesmods9936 Thanks!
Great video and beautiful C2 BTW,!
But you really didn’t go over the electronic oil gauge reading, post oil change. Do you have a video that goes over the oil level gauge in more detail?
I just got an ‘08 C4S same cold scheme as yours 👍
I’ll read my manual to see if I can find the specifics.
Thanks!
A great video I just changed the oil in my car for the first time after 10 years of ownership it’s very satisfying to be able to do your own work one question I use a Mann oil filter from Amazon Which was specified for my 2006 997 I pushed it up but it didn’t click is that a problem I’ve driven the car and everything seems fine I pushed and pushed but I couldn’t get the filter to click like in the video Thank you again !
Congratulations on a job well done! Mann is a great filter, I often use them and also Mahle. When you push the filter up, it should stay in place. You may not hear a click, but it will want to stay up there if you get it seated correctly, and will resist a mild tug down.
Thank you !
Doing yourself you saved for sure 500$, on dealership they would charge you all the materials and 2 hours labour haha
IKR my freaking dealer wanted $1200 for this...
mugensamurai that is crazy, like scaring me away from a gt4 crazy
Hi ... you forgot to say that before you reinstal the filter you have to refill the oilfilter and put a new oildrainplug washer
Good point on the drain plug crush washer, it should be replaced during the oil change. I have a link in the video description, for reference.
ΦΥΣΙΚΟΘΕΡΑΠΕΥΤΗΡΙΟ ΓΙΩΡΓΟΣ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΟΠΟΥΛΟΣ refilling a filter is called priming or prime the filter.
"refill the oilfilter and put a new oildrainplug washer" can someone elaborate, or could the video be edited with an addendum?
I haven't found it necessary to (partially) fill the oil filter housing with oil before re-installation, but some do so. For your second question, there is a metal "crush washer" between the drain plug and the engine. It is recommended to use a new one at each oil change, and re-installation of the drain plug without the crush washer will lead to oil drips. I have links in the video description to all the parts required, for easy reference.
Motors, Megabytes, & Mods hi, I'm not associated with the channel owner but from my 7 yrs with Mercedes Benz and working with exotic vehicles at random times. It is recommended to always replace the crush ring...if you really have to and I do mean IF YOU CANT REPLACE IT then yes you may reuse it one time. Always replace the OEM oil filter O-rings too.
I presume you had to remove and engine cover 1st. Was this "easy" to do without the car being hoisted up?
There was no engine cover to remove for this particular job. It was a little tight doing it on the ground, but possible.
Greetings from somerset county
Just around the corner!
hee nice video
But i have a question since porsche uses dry sump lubrication.
when you drain the oil pan does the oil in the reservoir located on the right side in the rear bumper stay in the reservoir ?
or does it drain along with the pan .
if not the old oil in the right side reservoir is contaminating the fresh oil right?
i know im typing this question awkward but english isn't my main language .
The earlier models, like the 1964-1989 911s, have the extra reservoir you mention with its own drain plug (in addition to the main plug on the bottom of the engine). In the 997, all oil comes out of the single drain plug on the bottom of the engine. The 996s (1999-2004) are the same way, and I'm guessing this continues all the way through the current generation of 911s.
Hey man I'm previous 2005 boxster owner and I did IMS upgrade and sold like 2 weeks ago now I'm buying 2005 carrera with 47k miles and I want to know if u have replaced IMS bearing
+N/A soundsSoGood ironically, I was on the way to the shop to get my ims bearing upgraded when it failed. This was at 25k miles, and I had an outstanding experience with Jack Daniels Porsche and Porsche NA wherein they replaced the engine. IMS discussion is like religion to many people, but ultimately it’s up to you to determine whether it’s worth the investment to swap it out. The labor is duplicative for replacing a clutch, so some people replace the IMS when it’s clutch time.
Amazing and simple video, thank you! 2 Questions: I didn't see you adding a new Drain Plug Gasket and I also didn't notice the place it would go into. Second, wouldn't it be nice to have a Magnetic Drain Plug to preemptively check for IMS bearing issues? Thanks!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! For your questions; 1) there is an aluminum washer that acts as a gasket for the drain plug. If you install the drain plug without this washer, you're almost guaranteed to get drips. It's recommended that you use a new washer each time, but I have reused the old one a few times in the past without any leaks. 2) A magnetic drain plug does give you another metric for the health of your engine. It likely won't do you much good as a check for the IMS bearing if you're only investigating at oil changes, but there is magnetic plug available that is wired to a light. Once it detects a certain amount of metal, it lights up inside the car. Theoretically, it could potentially save yourself from impending doom from an IMS failure, but I wouldn't count on that, either.
Some owners send their oil in for analysis as another indicator of engine health.
Hi,
I have a 2006 Carrerra 3.6, and was just curious when your car is warmed up (175 degrees) and at idle what is your Oil Pressure Reading? Mine usually is between 1.25 to 1.5 Bar. Of course once I drive the Oil Pressure can go up to 4 to 4.5 depending on the revs. Was just curious if 1.25 bar for oil pressure is low at idle?
+Cobey Huish I'm not sure what is typical for other owners, but I get around 2.5 bar at idle when fully warm and around 80F. Typical driving puts me at 4.5-5 bar. I'm running Mobil 1 0W-40 oil, for reference, and I also have a 3.6.
how did you keep the shirt white?
Haha, that’s the biggest mystery of the entire project!
I know I'm a late reply but don't forget to replace the oil drain bolt crush washer. It's cheap and a one time only part.
Torque spec on filter?
I have a 911 also (Porsche 996) 2006. I noticed you didnt put the oil drain plug gasket. Is that not required?
I should have been more diligent in the video discussing the drain plug gasket. You definitely need that or you will get oil drips (more than you’ll likely want to live with). I’ve found you don’t necessarily need to replace the gasket every time, but you definitely need it.
Hey, nice video. How tall is the oil pan and how many quarts does it hold? Any recommendations for brand that works well?
The one I have is 6” tall and has a pretty big capacity (probably 4 gallons?). I tried versions in the past that weren’t completely open, and the oil came out of the car faster than it could flow through the hole on the top of the oil pan, so I stuck with open. This one on amazon looks somewhat similar to mine amzn.to/2KpGEj2
So Cool. Is it possible to extract from filler hole with pump?
+Yasu good question, but I don’t think you would get to the bottom of the oil pan.
I see, thank you for explaining!
I tried this but the oil drain plug won’t budge. I’m twisting like you did it’s almost like it’s fused together.
I had same thing problem and stripped it tap on with torx on ratchet with hammer
Awesome video step by step!!!!
+evan castillo thanks, I hope it helps you!
Clear instructions. Thanks 🙏🏽
What size oil filter wrench did you use?
Excellent video, thanks very much!
Just noticed you did not use a crush washer...
Good catch, I should have called it out in the video. I reused the existing crush washer in this instance, and replace it every couple of changes or so. If you don’t use a washer, you’ll most likely get oil drips.
Motors, Megabytes, & Mods so I change my oil... looks like 7 quarts came out of the car and I added about 7 back in... when I check the oil level after getting the car up to operating temp I still show low... I don’t want to put too much and risk damaging the seals... any advice on when and what temp to check oil level? I would think it would be at warmer temps than cold starts.
Great vid!! No more difficult than changing the oil in a Civic or my Silverado, I see. Lol
so how come they dont they just have an oil dipstick?
Salute from stockton Cali "😎😎😎😎😎
Good point Nesty G...nonetheless slick video Rob
Really like your work...good💐💐💐
per the comment below do you add oil to the oil filter housing before putting it back on ? Thank you
+Russell DeJulio I have not found it necessary to fill the oil cartridge/filter with oil prior to reinstallation. I've seen a few people mention it, but I don't believe it is commons practice.
Thank you for the response that would be a potentially messy process !
I am trying to get the courage up to try it . I serviced all my BMW's but this is my first 911 and everything appears to be challenging to me. Its been dealer maintained a GREAT Dealer but I would like to at least do my own oil changes . BEST ! Russ
+Russell DeJulio there are definitely some challenging elements to working on 911's, but they made oil changes very simple. The drain plug is right next to the oil filter housing, and you don't need to remove any protective plates to get to either. There's also no danger of the oil leaking on/down an underbody sheet metal plate, like I struggled with on my 2007 BMW 328i. Filling is also easy on this car with the articulating oil fill "tube". Space under the car is a little tight if you don't jack it up or use ramps, but I was able to shimmy under there with a huge amount of difficulty. I'm not sure what year 911 you have, but the oil change process is the same from '99-2008. It changes a bit in 2009 with the switch to DFI engines, but the principle is the same. Don't forget the metal crush washer on the drain plug or you'll get oil drips (I didn't make a note of this in the video).
Thanks mine is a 2006 coupe only 36 K like new . I do not have a lift but believe I can get under the car Thanks again ! Russ
great video but people need to know, there is a metal washer on the drain plug. I found mine in the dirty oil after I had refilled with new, My Bad!
Yes, great call out that I should have drawn attention to in the video! If you leave that washer off of the drain plug, you will almost certainly get oil drips.
So how much would this cost at the dealer?
+Edgar Arenas it varies quite bit by dealer (and region), but the range is usually $200-450 +/-.
Doing the job yourself, more than pays for the cost of the tools, oil and filter after just the first oil change, vs paying a dealership for parts & labor.
Edgar Arenas at Mercedes Benz we charge $150 not including parts. So the concept of profits for Mercedes is from a sale commission so find THE MOST ridiculous price but avoid telling the customers it is a WIX filter. So labor is added, oh hey oil disposal is from for us but the dealership will charge a customer $25. But hey, you get a complimentary wash and vacuum. (Half assed done) if you really watch them do it
How do you reset the service now warning?
Unfortunately, you need a tool that plugs into the OBD2 port, such as a Durametric. A cheaper alternative is iCarSoft Por II, but I don’t have personal experience with that tool.
cool vid thanks for the upload
New crush washer???
Technically, it’s recommended to replace it each time. In practice, I’ve reused it many times over the years and have been fortunate enough to not have experienced any leaks.
Thanks for nice video
Good Vid! Thank You
Thanks 👏👏
IMHO he should have let it drain longer. He left a lot of dirty oil in the engine. I always change my own oil and let it drip at least an hour. But that’s just me.
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Porsche why a half hour to know your oil level???? wtf
This is a perfect example of why so many supercars blowup and that’s home mechanics and RUclipsrs teaching other RUclipsrs to be mechanics..... if you can’t afford to take your super car to the dealer stick to the hatchbacks
^^^Stupidest comment on RUclips.
What did you torque the oil filter cap to ?