I figured out a long time ago now, that if you keep a set of string clippings, that you can use them to smooth out the nut without making the cuts in it deeper.. Plus some Big Bens nut sauce helps as well. I find that with new guitars I usually have to do a setup on them, which includes changing out the strings, ensuring the nut slots are smooth and of course some adjustments of the truss rod as well. I do shine up all frets on a cheap guitar when I get it, and I also have been known to take a file to knock down sharp fret ends.. With all that said though, the way these guitars are priced and marketed, they are targeting new players, and a new player is not likely to know how to do a good setup on a guitar... I have never had a guitar that needed a shim in the neck though, because if that is not right I just send it back for a new one lol. Although I can fix a lot of issues, I find that even with the big company's, sometimes you get a dud of a guitar, so its better to just send it back and try for a better one.. Most return policy's will allow you to swap out the guitar you got for another one of the same model and make, and if they don't have them they will refund you and you can pick a different guitar lol. So on this one, if it needed a neck shim, I would have sent it back myself. I would never recommend a guitar that needs a lot of work when you get it to a new player though, but I do want to at some point try one of these and see what I get lol.
I've had 2 of these (the first one Glarry sent was damaged, so they sent another, I've since sold the first one) and I couldn't get either one properly intonated to save my life. If it's in tune on the open strings, it's out of tune on the frets, especially the G string. I'm gonna try replacing the bridge with a Squier Mustang bridge. I'm probably also gonna replace the pickups with a set of P90s. I replaced the string trees with roller trees. Glarry's factory strings are garbage. I have 4 Glarry guitars, and I've learned to always order a set of new strings when I order a Glarry.
The nut & strings are a new guitar, just need to be played in a little. But I get the binding nut frustration. Shimming is no big deal either, but shouldn't have to be done on a new guitar. I like the review being as true to the guitar without post production altering of the audio. Use a multimeter to measure pickup DCR for switch positions (N/M/B) as a tip for future guitar reviews.
Yeah, where I feel like the main consumers of this guitar will be beginners or modders, I definitely want those demographics to have the pertinent information. Thanks for watching!
How much shimming did the neck pocket need ? I had to shim a preowned 2005 Squier Bullet SSS HT with a 1/16" shim, the neck angle was fine, so it was a flat level shim. Instead of the neck pocket being 5/8" (10/16"), it's now 9/16" deep. Shimming for top loader fixed bridges is a common cure, more so than it is for a string thru fixed bridge. I'm just glad that guitar was adding a shim rather than neck pocket or neck heel wood removal for that 1/16".
@@jimcamp2423 yeah it needed about 1/8inch shim nearest the body. With a straight neck, the action was like a triangle haha. Decent at the first fret, but like a slide guitar by the 12th.
1/8 inch is a lot of shim, I thought 1/16 was excessive. I'll generally trust that the nut was cut right and see where the truss rod & saddle height adjustments get the action at. My Bullet was basically the E saddles slammed to the bridge plate, where the saddle post feet screws were sticking up. My goal was to level the saddles because they were angled downwards and the break angle for a top loader was wrong. Anyway, the flat shim raised the heel and the pickups had to be raised that much as well. The nut & headstock was also raised, but that helped the nut end frets. Everything aligned flatter relative from bridge saddles to nut. The Bullet Strat is a 1st reach these days for a session it's that enjoyably playable. And even when I do Telecaster Tuesday, I usually end up playing the Strat to close the session. Being a HT, the Strat stays in tune like the Tele does.
I feel like the main consumers of this guitar are modders or beginners, so I definitely want them to have the most pertinent and accurate information about this guitar. Thanks for watching!
Dude I have been looking for a review of this! Thinking of picking one up! Thanks!
These guitars are great if you like to build your own stuff I use them But I always crown and level the frets I always reshape the neck too
This is basically the Glarry version of the Bullet Mustang, so it would be cool to see it compared to one of those :)
I figured out a long time ago now, that if you keep a set of string clippings, that you can use them to smooth out the nut without making the cuts in it deeper.. Plus some Big Bens nut sauce helps as well. I find that with new guitars I usually have to do a setup on them, which includes changing out the strings, ensuring the nut slots are smooth and of course some adjustments of the truss rod as well. I do shine up all frets on a cheap guitar when I get it, and I also have been known to take a file to knock down sharp fret ends..
With all that said though, the way these guitars are priced and marketed, they are targeting new players, and a new player is not likely to know how to do a good setup on a guitar... I have never had a guitar that needed a shim in the neck though, because if that is not right I just send it back for a new one lol. Although I can fix a lot of issues, I find that even with the big company's, sometimes you get a dud of a guitar, so its better to just send it back and try for a better one.. Most return policy's will allow you to swap out the guitar you got for another one of the same model and make, and if they don't have them they will refund you and you can pick a different guitar lol.
So on this one, if it needed a neck shim, I would have sent it back myself. I would never recommend a guitar that needs a lot of work when you get it to a new player though, but I do want to at some point try one of these and see what I get lol.
How is the SHAPE of the neck? Is it thin, thick, medium, full round "C"? How would you best describe it?
Greta question. I sold the guitar a while ago, but if I recall correctly, it was more of a D shape. Rounded, but a bit more shoulder than a c shape.
I've had 2 of these (the first one Glarry sent was damaged, so they sent another, I've since sold the first one) and I couldn't get either one properly intonated to save my life. If it's in tune on the open strings, it's out of tune on the frets, especially the G string. I'm gonna try replacing the bridge with a Squier Mustang bridge. I'm probably also gonna replace the pickups with a set of P90s. I replaced the string trees with roller trees.
Glarry's factory strings are garbage. I have 4 Glarry guitars, and I've learned to always order a set of new strings when I order a Glarry.
And try a heavier gauge. Maybe 52s-11s or even bigger
It's a MUSTANG knockoff... NOT a JAGUAR!!!
Both short scale offsets haha. Hard to tell the difference.
yeah, that was worth YELLING ABOUT
In addition to shimming the neck, did you have to cut the nut slots down further? And adjust the truss rod?
Nope, just needed a neck angle correction.
Do you happen to know the fretboard radius?
It wasn't listed in the specs, and I forgot to measure, but it felt like 9.5"
@@jonnybroomhead thanks a lot
how thick is the body, been looking at the singlecoil version with the jag tremolo and want to mod it with the proper mustang bridge
I have a squire jag in my possession right now, and the glarry is definitely thinner.
1.7 inch/43mm thick, compared to 1.37 inch/35mm for a Squier Bullet Mustang. This non-trem version is about $80 on ebay.
The nut & strings are a new guitar, just need to be played in a little. But I get the binding nut frustration. Shimming is no big deal either, but shouldn't have to be done on a new guitar. I like the review being as true to the guitar without post production altering of the audio. Use a multimeter to measure pickup DCR for switch positions (N/M/B) as a tip for future guitar reviews.
Yeah, where I feel like the main consumers of this guitar will be beginners or modders, I definitely want those demographics to have the pertinent information. Thanks for watching!
How much shimming did the neck pocket need ? I had to shim a preowned 2005 Squier Bullet SSS HT with a 1/16" shim, the neck angle was fine, so it was a flat level shim. Instead of the neck pocket being 5/8" (10/16"), it's now 9/16" deep. Shimming for top loader fixed bridges is a common cure, more so than it is for a string thru fixed bridge. I'm just glad that guitar was adding a shim rather than neck pocket or neck heel wood removal for that 1/16".
@@jimcamp2423 yeah it needed about 1/8inch shim nearest the body. With a straight neck, the action was like a triangle haha. Decent at the first fret, but like a slide guitar by the 12th.
@@jimcamp2423 but I never chisel out the pocket in a cheap guitar. I sand down the neck instead.
1/8 inch is a lot of shim, I thought 1/16 was excessive. I'll generally trust that the nut was cut right and see where the truss rod & saddle height adjustments get the action at. My Bullet was basically the E saddles slammed to the bridge plate, where the saddle post feet screws were sticking up. My goal was to level the saddles because they were angled downwards and the break angle for a top loader was wrong. Anyway, the flat shim raised the heel and the pickups had to be raised that much as well. The nut & headstock was also raised, but that helped the nut end frets. Everything aligned flatter relative from bridge saddles to nut. The Bullet Strat is a 1st reach these days for a session it's that enjoyably playable. And even when I do Telecaster Tuesday, I usually end up playing the Strat to close the session. Being a HT, the Strat stays in tune like the Tele does.
It's a Mustang not a Jaguar.
Potatoes potatoes lol. It's not as good as a Squier or fender anyway.
its cool how the haters are obviously rich and entitled enough to buy from the big 3 lol.....
I feel like the main consumers of this guitar are modders or beginners, so I definitely want them to have the most pertinent and accurate information about this guitar. Thanks for watching!
"haters" ok bud. my best guitar is a LTD and i can tell you it doesn't take a Rockefeller to say a sub-$100 guitar might not be the best idea.