I bought the 1156s and 1157 to upgrade a new set of factory taillights for my old Toyota pickup... man what a difference! The only downside was I had to add a little chamfer (~1mm) on all of them so they would fit. Out of the box, they could not go deep enough in the sockets. Not a big deal, whipped out the Dremel.
I’ve actually ran the auxbeam bulbs for about 9 months. They work okay. They do hyper flash after about 20 minutes of the turn signal or flashers being on. But they work for now
ALL led replacement lights I've seen so far with internal resistors still require an rxternal resistor if LED lights are replaced on the front and rear. Do these Morimoto lights eliminate the hyper flash when installed on the front and rear of the vehicle?
I tried asking this as well and they were not very clear in answering my question directly. So, I just ordered a few and will do my own testing on this.
Yes they do! I’m trying them on a few others today also. I’ll film my findings and upload them. So far they have fixed my hyperflashing problem on my gmc and the Ford Bronco. A bulb like this should have been out years ago.
'that just shattered'.... Oh, so its like Ram taillight, hey? Also, if you are going to test bulbs that are internally resisted for hyperflashing, you should probably disconnect the external resistor..... But honestly, these look awesome!
@@DrivenRealityWAIT! Josh, my apologies. At the start of the 30min testing, its clearly still connected, but at the end, its not. I didn't see that it changed, so I apologise.
@@Blue84Stang oh good! full disclosure that test there was done after I originally tested it. I hate making videos for the company without doing my own due diligence even if it’s a trusted brand like Morimoto. Funny thing is that’s actually a resistor from a chevy Morimoto xb housing. The 2021 gmc Sierra I have was really picky and continuously would hyperflash no matter what I installed. I can truthfully say it’s working well still. I made another video today of a 4 runner. No error codes and hyperflashing. It’s impressive. If I do have any issues with them I will post a video here. So far I’d recommend the bulb to my friends
@@DrivenReality Like, there is a reason why I have no reservations about sending/pointing (sometimes pushing) people to Headlight Revolution. Chris and Yourself both seem to operate on the idea of 'level the playing field... use the same housing, on the same table, at the same distance, and see which one is ACTUALLY brighter'. No marketing bias, no gimmicks, just evidence. I didn't know about all the independent testing you do as well, but honestly, it shouldn't have been a surprise, in hindsight. Keep up what you are doing, it IS valued. Oh, and don't be afraid to yeet a few more bulbs or housings, its always entertaining to see/hear the reaction to it hitting the ground....😂😂
I was just waiting for a better bulb for my Audi!! I’ve been using GTR bulbs because they don’t trigger the “ bulb out” crap !! The problem is is that the GTR bulbs never last in my car which sucks because they are high dollar !!
Looking at these as a potential retrofit for an 1157 combined stop/tail bulb, but taillights can clearly be illuminated for longer than 30 minutes continuously while driving at night, albeit at a much lower intensity than when used for braking (1157 is a dual-filament bulb). Can these run at the lower taillight intensity for longer than 30 minutes without producing CANBUS issues (bulb-out warnings, cruise control disablement, etc.) ?
If i have amber corners for my front turn signal.. would switch back be ok to use or switchbacks are only good on clear corners? If i have amber corners.. which color would be the best to use?
Canbus/Blown Bulb sensing tech in cars have been around for YEARS. SO... WHY do LED car bulb makers NOT, AS STANDARD INCLUDE a 5 Ohm resistor in their bulbs!!! You CAN GET 'Canbus/error free' LED 501/T10 bulbs, so... WHY NOT 21W/5Ws, H4, H7 and all the others!!! It's BLOODY CRAZY that MOST LED bulbs you get you THEN HAVE TO ALSO buy, and install a 'Resistor kit'!!!! 😒 😎🇬🇧
I took have been wondering this for years as well.. It's almost not worth it if you have to rely on janky ass resistors that are usually never weatherproof despite their advertising. Hopefully more products like this come to market.
I just wish morimoto's 3157 switchbacks would white/amber/white/amber instead of a lot other switchback bulbs out there that white/amber/off/amber/off/white! Lastfits(which lastfit's headlight bulbs=suxorZ) switchbacks(not the new one!) Do white/amber/white/amber/white. Which is what i want and looks best with ny rigs!
I just ordered some XB's for my F-150 (amber blinker, 2 sets of red tail lights). Are these LED's too bright? I definitely don't want to be that dude in traffic, blinding the people behind me when stopped.
These are going to be pretty bright, but you shouldn't have to worry about blinding other drivers with turn signals. & turn signals should be thought of as a safety device! Bright = visible
This can also depend on engine noise, but some fans can be audible while in use if you're standing next to the headlights. You will not be able to hear them inside the cabin.
I bought the 1156s and 1157 to upgrade a new set of factory taillights for my old Toyota pickup... man what a difference! The only downside was I had to add a little chamfer (~1mm) on all of them so they would fit. Out of the box, they could not go deep enough in the sockets. Not a big deal, whipped out the Dremel.
Right on! Thanks for sharing.
Hey there’s an auxbeam bulb that’s been around for a while that looks very similar to this can you guys do a comparison?
I’ve actually ran the auxbeam bulbs for about 9 months. They work okay. They do hyper flash after about 20 minutes of the turn signal or flashers being on. But they work for now
i have V-LEDs and they dont hyperflash but they are also high wattage bulbs
ALL led replacement lights I've seen so far with internal resistors still require an rxternal resistor if LED lights are replaced on the front and rear. Do these Morimoto lights eliminate the hyper flash when installed on the front and rear of the vehicle?
I tried asking this as well and they were not very clear in answering my question directly. So, I just ordered a few and will do my own testing on this.
Yes they do! I’m trying them on a few others today also. I’ll film my findings and upload them. So far they have fixed my hyperflashing problem on my gmc and the Ford Bronco. A bulb like this should have been out years ago.
I still got hyper flashing on my 2005 Dodge ram 3500
@@PantherLights Did you end up testing?
'that just shattered'.... Oh, so its like Ram taillight, hey?
Also, if you are going to test bulbs that are internally resisted for hyperflashing, you should probably disconnect the external resistor.....
But honestly, these look awesome!
I did in the testing!
@@DrivenRealityWAIT!
Josh, my apologies.
At the start of the 30min testing, its clearly still connected, but at the end, its not. I didn't see that it changed, so I apologise.
@@Blue84Stang oh good! full disclosure that test there was done after I originally tested it. I hate making videos for the company without doing my own due diligence even if it’s a trusted brand like Morimoto. Funny thing is that’s actually a resistor from a chevy Morimoto xb housing. The 2021 gmc Sierra I have was really picky and continuously would hyperflash no matter what I installed. I can truthfully say it’s working well still. I made another video today of a 4 runner. No error codes and hyperflashing. It’s impressive. If I do have any issues with them I will post a video here. So far I’d recommend the bulb to my friends
@@DrivenReality Like, there is a reason why I have no reservations about sending/pointing (sometimes pushing) people to Headlight Revolution. Chris and Yourself both seem to operate on the idea of 'level the playing field... use the same housing, on the same table, at the same distance, and see which one is ACTUALLY brighter'. No marketing bias, no gimmicks, just evidence. I didn't know about all the independent testing you do as well, but honestly, it shouldn't have been a surprise, in hindsight.
Keep up what you are doing, it IS valued. Oh, and don't be afraid to yeet a few more bulbs or housings, its always entertaining to see/hear the reaction to it hitting the ground....😂😂
@@Blue84Stang haha I appreciate it! Thanks for sending people our way. Destroying bulbs are fun. Specially if they suck.
I was just waiting for a better bulb for my Audi!! I’ve been using GTR bulbs because they don’t trigger the “ bulb out” crap !! The problem is is that the GTR bulbs never last in my car which sucks because they are high dollar !!
Sounds like the XB LEDs may be a great solution for you then!
Looking at these as a potential retrofit for an 1157 combined stop/tail bulb, but taillights can clearly be illuminated for longer than 30 minutes continuously while driving at night, albeit at a much lower intensity than when used for braking (1157 is a dual-filament bulb). Can these run at the lower taillight intensity for longer than 30 minutes without producing CANBUS issues (bulb-out warnings, cruise control disablement, etc.) ?
Yes, we've had them operating for over an hour in the studio!
If i have amber corners for my front turn signal.. would switch back be ok to use or switchbacks are only good on clear corners? If i have amber corners.. which color would be the best to use?
For amber lenses, we suggest an amber LED!
@@HeadlightRevolution thank you
Canbus/Blown Bulb sensing tech in cars have been around for YEARS. SO... WHY do LED car bulb makers NOT, AS STANDARD INCLUDE a 5 Ohm resistor in their bulbs!!! You CAN GET 'Canbus/error free' LED 501/T10 bulbs, so... WHY NOT 21W/5Ws, H4, H7 and all the others!!! It's BLOODY CRAZY that MOST LED bulbs you get you THEN HAVE TO ALSO buy, and install a 'Resistor kit'!!!! 😒
😎🇬🇧
I took have been wondering this for years as well..
It's almost not worth it if you have to rely on janky ass resistors that are usually never weatherproof despite their advertising.
Hopefully more products like this come to market.
I just wish morimoto's 3157 switchbacks would white/amber/white/amber instead of a lot other switchback bulbs out there that white/amber/off/amber/off/white! Lastfits(which lastfit's headlight bulbs=suxorZ) switchbacks(not the new one!) Do white/amber/white/amber/white. Which is what i want and looks best with ny rigs!
Will the amber lights work as daytime running lights on my 2010 Toyota Tacoma?
Yes, the will!
@@HeadlightRevolution Thank you for the reply, I just ordered a set!
I just ordered some XB's for my F-150 (amber blinker, 2 sets of red tail lights). Are these LED's too bright? I definitely don't want to be that dude in traffic, blinding the people behind me when stopped.
These are going to be pretty bright, but you shouldn't have to worry about blinding other drivers with turn signals. & turn signals should be thought of as a safety device! Bright = visible
@HeadlightRevolution The front amber blinkers are probably too bright..hahaha But I haven't gotten a finger yet 🤷♂️
are the fans audible while in the housing?
This can also depend on engine noise, but some fans can be audible while in use if you're standing next to the headlights. You will not be able to hear them inside the cabin.
Can you please do review of Truck Lite 37650c heated
Maybe we can add them to a future video!
Meanwhile I have a set up $1400 xb headlights that keep saying I have a turn signal out and no one has an answer as to why
2018 Ram. I'm not too happy with just living with a hyperflash
The problem is you bought an FCA product called Dodge. I'm sorry for your future loss 🤣
2015 Tundra Crewmax. Front would be amber switch back 7440 / 7443 XB LED and rear would be red 921 / T15 carbide 2.0?
14-21 Tundra uses 3157 bulbs for front turn signals, 921 is correct for turn signals.
@HeadlightRevolution oh, I forgot to mentioned I upgraded to the 2018 OEM LED front lights
Do these in the 3157 work on 01-06 chevy tahoe as a brake/tail light? I have found that so bulbs can't do both with truck on. Only with it off.
$40 - 50 a set ? 😢😢😢😢