My unit had an x13 control board. I had to replace it with another ECM and I had to have it programmed. I'm sure I could've put a PSC in but I had to change the board also or put relays in. This board has its 24volts in and 24 volts out for controls to the motor. My 240v was connected on the line side of the transformer. But it worked out. Got the motor the sameday and installed it. But it will burn again because the duct work was an abortion. The airflow must be so bad. I did advise them. Also lucky you, your was outside, mine was in the 140 degree attic. Bro. I was dying up there. I actually turned on the condenser let the coil get cold and ran the attic fan. It was better then nothing. LMAO. NICE WORK AS ALWAYS BROTHER. BE SAFE OUT THERE.
One thing you want to be careful about when replacing a variable speed or a constant torque motor with a PSC is that you can overload the new PSC motor even if it is the same fractional horsepower rating. The blower wheels are usually bigger on variable speed and constant torque motors for the same tonnage system. That’s why we install variable speed or constant torque motors because they can develop higher static pressures helping on lowballer, jackleg ductwork. So, upsizing a fractional horsepower rating size is recommended when going from VS or CT to PSC. You can always use a lower blower speed, but if you’re overloading the motor and your CFM is already 25% low, there’s not much you can do but change the motor out.
I really respect techs that don't push the new system sales and can salvage a unit and save people money. And then there's the Super Techs that go above and do a nice job and take pride in their work.
@Harupert Beagleton I work in a related field. Master Electrician. One of my brothers is HVAC and his side of the business occasionally has us pull and replace motors. This was good work. One thing I always do, any parts not needed for the mounting set-up get yanked. I've seen those rubber vibration dampers at the front and rear pull loose. No problem at the rear, in the front, though, can make one heck of a racket. I'm glad you warned about capacitors holding a charge. It's useless, of course, the mucho-machos are incapable of learning, but more than enough joules there to kill you - and way more than enough to fry sensitive electronics, even if you don't care about the danger to people.
Man you make this look easy, is it possible to do this with a different board then that one for example my blower was ran from a control transformer for high voltage power via a common and 240 volt wire. Then the low volt was ran from “x13 spd, x13g, x13 com”. I disregarded those and the common and 240 volt to the control transformer and routed the control transformer to a relay. On the relay I have my motor common and motor high and the common from the ct on the open circuit to other common and the medium speed to the 240 volt via closed circuit on relay. What do I need for the 24v on the relay and when I do so, how do I get the thermostat to communicate with the blower and compressor.
You definitely got lucky with that unit. Seeing as it had a control board that was meant for a PSC motor. Especially with a gas pack. I did one on a Nordyne gas pack couple weeks ago and was not that lucky. Had to add relays. I was thinking maybe I could get a different control board from Nordyne that was used with a PSC motor but that board is almost $300 if I remember correctly. So it was a lot easier to just add relays
So I'm little rusty on field work been about 20yrs- So when I got out of the trade these were. I ming on - Now I have 12 yr old Trane xr13 unit w/ Air handler that has 3 circuit boards- House hit by lighting at least main board fried but because age & expense was thinking about cutting all the boards wiring out running old school motor w/ capacitor relay just having one speed- Is this reasonable on old unit w/ no warranty but otherwise looks like new?
I was just considering if this was possible, so I did a search and found this video. Those ECM motors are stupid expensive. This one was killed by an electrical surge (guess, customer said power flickered during a storm and that was it). Unfortunately I have to add a relay, but that's nothing. A PSC motor, relay and cap is far less than just a ECM motor. Thanks!
Why doesn’t anybody check if the module or the motor is bad. The module can be replaced separate of the motor. Module alone runs a little under 400 but labor is quick. 2 bolts and 1 plug. Recommend to the customer to have a whole house surge installed. I do need to learn changing it to the other motor. Thanks for taking the time.
great video. I enjoy the "out of the box" process thought when changing x13 over to psc motors. one question, in your years of service do you think the A/C units (of any type) are getting made more poor vs the units 15 - 20 years ago?
i just installed an ecm x13 motor the rotation is counter clock but this new motor is going clockwise it suppose to run for 30 second and stop then go counter clock but it never did that even after 5 minutes ,is there a way to make it go opposite direction? counter clock
I am not a fan of multi speed or variable speed fan motors on a furnace or air handler and two or more stages on both heat and ac because I find a single stage heating and cooling system in my home does not fluctuate the temperatures when cycling therefore I feel comfortable!
Quick question a lot of times especially on carrier,comfortmaker ,bryant etc the x13 motors will have two speeds that are tapped into the blue wire is usually going to low voltage terminal 2 and white for low voltage tape 4 . My question is what is the purpose of that if even in a heat call you have a g call which would activate low voltage terminal 2 medium speed. Is is a safety ?
Why didn’t you check to see if the motor was good and just the module was bad? I just bought the module after testing and showed the motor was actually good and only cost me 184$ and not 300- 500 for a whole new motor.
I believe u meant 24v coil,to allow line voltage to pass thru the motor........or just replace the motor module itself. Only 2 screws,and a small plug. 99 out of 100,motor good, module bad.
Yes, you need to recommend new or additional ductwork, larger filter surface area. 1.8A on a 1/2HP. Guess what happens when you have low airflow in the summertime? You end up with a high temperature drop. Guess what happens when a cold steel heat exchanger is exposed to very humid outdoor air, whether it’s in Florida or up here in the hypocrite belt. Condensation and rust!
Hey Zack, Thanks for the great video. Could you please explain the reason behind selecting lower blower rpm on heat and higher on cooling mode? Is higher rpm on cooling mode simply to prevent a possible freeze up on evaporator coil? Or something else? Thanks
iskoos low speed for heat slows the air to pick up more heat from the exchanger. Cooling needs higher air flow to remove moisture from the air, with out it freezing to the coil
How do you know when you can bump up the CFM. My diagram says it should be on 2 but I was wanting to bump it up to 3. The heaters on 4 and 5 is open. 1-5 are all active but I was concerned that going to a higher CFM my be bad and I was hoping you could elaborate on that or direct me to one of your videos if you already covered that
Increasing or decreasing CFM affects both cooing and heating. Cooling side is the compressor and evap, slow the CFM and the evap can freeze/ice over which is a death spin. More frost less air moving through it which = more frost/ice. Continue and liquid refrigerant can get to compressor which isn't what you want. To high CFM and it can affect the efficiency of the evap to remove heat. All components are designed to match each other. Experiment but monitor. Check all air duct and passageways prior to ensure all is right before. Same on heating side. If furnace, to high cfm and the airflow doesn't match the heat exchanger so it can either trip off on high limit or you get more cfm but register outlet temps are lower. In winter it can feel drafty. Find your desired register outlet temps and experiment.
@@RM-np1gm if you move air across the heat exchanger too fast, wouldn't that lower the possibility of high limit, since you are pushing the heat away from the unit quicker? When limit trips, fan stays on to cool it down.
@@joeydelmarsjr.646 No not really its really good we just installed one at my home its running real quite and the be ecm motor is great too starts up slow then ramps up
Considering the age of the unit (7 years) should not the motor been replaced for free under warranty? And that being the case wouldn't it make sense to use the exact oem replacement motor?
hi,,CAN ANYONE HELP??,,got blower motor only comes on when t-stat is set to ON,,does not come on in AUTO,,just hear a click,,,TRANE;;;mod;;4teh3f36b1000ab,,,,everything works fine but airhandler fan on ly comes on ,,in ON
Actually. no. I was "fucking around." I'm at this channel curious as to why industry found it necessary to upgrade from a relatively easy and cheap to maintain capacitor motors, to complicated, expensive 12-pole/with built in inverters to move air. After all, I'm not sure many service tech's out there are versed in pulse width modulation or phase control techniques in controlling induction motors. So how does industry get around that? Create more parts changers. Now I see there is a push back to switch to old school. Bravo!
@@zacksintheshopI feel responsible even though I can walk away I am going to see if the company I bought it from will exchange it for a three ton package and I'll pay the difference in cash if they would kindly accept the unit back that's the only way I can make it happen right away if I have the money I would just get them another one right away and sell their unit if
Pulling down because of gravity? What is gravity-really..? Newton couldn't even fully define it, as it's only theory. And fully nonsence. If one says this is nonsence, ask yourself, how is it that billions of gallons of rain stays floating above the earth. Not one drop should be up there if gravity were a real thing.
It has to do with atmospheric pressure. Different layers of atmosphere= different pressures. Standard atmospheric pressure is 29.9" of HG which differs at different atmospheres (stratosphere etc...). Also newton explained free fall of gravity is 9.8m/s squared. I only wanted some info on ECM to PSC motor but I'll debunk a flat earther while I'm at it. 😂😂😂
Okay dude. The labels on the side of the unit are there for a reason. You just changed two things. You modified two. The UL label and the efficiency of the unit in one repair. UL label is no longer any good. If the house catches fire because of this system, you are the only one that will pay if sued. Manufacture is out of the picture because of your modification. You got great insurance? You should know ECM motors can deliver more air then PSC motors. If all things are equal, right unit for the house and duct work correct. The efficiency would be on track. Now it is lower and system failure is on track now. I work for a major company. It is our policy not to modify labels on a system of any brand of heating and air unit. Good luck with your modifications.
I got away with mine, I retired. I understand what you are saying. Does that apply to aftermarket ECMs as well? How far do you think that argument goes? This unit actually has the PSC stubs on the board. I realize it is a board used in multiple units. I did have insurance, yes. Liability is required here to be in business. Typically 1 - 2 million as a starting point.
Carl Andrews, although your points are somewhat valid, you are a bit extreme. I own an HVAC company and I appreciate your concerns however this man saved a 7-year-old unit from Death. There’s no way I’d put $1000 worth of motor into that machine. He did his customer a great service and thank God he had the knowledge and the ability to do so. He did everything correct and professionally. There’s no insurance play here
Field modifications do not "void" the UL Listed Mark as long as the modification is being used in it's intended manner. In this case, the tech has installed a UL Listed part (aftermarket PSC motor) and since neither the motor nor the equipment has been modified beyond it's intended use (manner) there is no liability outside of the UL Listed Mark. You are correct that an X-13 is more efficient in a perfect world, with perfect duct work but ultimately we are at the mercy of our customers. If they will not pay to upgrade the ductwork as needed a PSC is perfectly logical and acceptable modification to keep from needing to replace X-13 motors (or any ECM) due to high static. Not as efficient, true; but it will last much longer.
Was so cool to see you put that grommet in. It was driving me crazy looking at all the wires passing through all those unprotected locations.
My unit had an x13 control board. I had to replace it with another ECM and I had to have it programmed. I'm sure I could've put a PSC in but I had to change the board also or put relays in. This board has its 24volts in and 24 volts out for controls to the motor. My 240v was connected on the line side of the transformer. But it worked out. Got the motor the sameday and installed it. But it will burn again because the duct work was an abortion. The airflow must be so bad. I did advise them. Also lucky you, your was outside, mine was in the 140 degree attic. Bro. I was dying up there. I actually turned on the condenser let the coil get cold and ran the attic fan. It was better then nothing. LMAO. NICE WORK AS ALWAYS BROTHER. BE SAFE OUT THERE.
I've done that a lot with those they make it so easy to go back to psc
Oh yes, this was nice with the taps on the board already
One thing you want to be careful about when replacing a variable speed or a constant torque motor with a PSC is that you can overload the new PSC motor even if it is the same fractional horsepower rating. The blower wheels are usually bigger on variable speed and constant torque motors for the same tonnage system. That’s why we install variable speed or constant torque motors because they can develop higher static pressures helping on lowballer, jackleg ductwork. So, upsizing a fractional horsepower rating size is recommended when going from VS or CT to PSC. You can always use a lower blower speed, but if you’re overloading the motor and your CFM is already 25% low, there’s not much you can do but change the motor out.
I really respect techs that don't push the new system sales and can salvage a unit and save people money. And then there's the Super Techs that go above and do a nice job and take pride in their work.
@Harupert Beagleton I work in a related field. Master Electrician. One of my brothers is HVAC and his side of the business occasionally has us pull and replace motors. This was good work. One thing I always do, any parts not needed for the mounting set-up get yanked. I've seen those rubber vibration dampers at the front and rear pull loose. No problem at the rear, in the front, though, can make one heck of a racket.
I'm glad you warned about capacitors holding a charge. It's useless, of course, the mucho-machos are incapable of learning, but more than enough joules there to kill you - and way more than enough to fry sensitive electronics, even if you don't care about the danger to people.
That's what I do to help my customers, too.
thanks for the detail!
Cool video. Very cool explanation!
Nice job thanks.
Nice repair.
Man you make this look easy, is it possible to do this with a different board then that one for example my blower was ran from a control transformer for high voltage power via a common and 240 volt wire. Then the low volt was ran from “x13 spd, x13g, x13 com”. I disregarded those and the common and 240 volt to the control transformer and routed the control transformer to a relay. On the relay I have my motor common and motor high and the common from the ct on the open circuit to other common and the medium speed to the 240 volt via closed circuit on relay. What do I need for the 24v on the relay and when I do so, how do I get the thermostat to communicate with the blower and compressor.
Thanks for the video
Good video was very helpful thank you
Thanks for watching
Good video bud
You definitely got lucky with that unit. Seeing as it had a control board that was meant for a PSC motor. Especially with a gas pack. I did one on a Nordyne gas pack couple weeks ago and was not that lucky. Had to add relays. I was thinking maybe I could get a different control board from Nordyne that was used with a PSC motor but that board is almost $300 if I remember correctly. So it was a lot easier to just add relays
So I'm little rusty on field work been about 20yrs- So when I got out of the trade these were. I ming on - Now I have 12 yr old Trane xr13 unit w/ Air handler that has 3 circuit boards- House hit by lighting at least main board fried but because age & expense was thinking about cutting all the boards wiring out running old school motor w/ capacitor relay just having one speed- Is this reasonable on old unit w/ no warranty but otherwise looks like new?
You kept the X13 board. My X13 ECM went out. I’m looking to convert mine to PSC too. I didn’t think I could use the X13 board. I like your mod.
Buy a ge evergreen plug and play and you won't burn your house down
I was just considering if this was possible, so I did a search and found this video. Those ECM motors are stupid expensive. This one was killed by an electrical surge (guess, customer said power flickered during a storm and that was it). Unfortunately I have to add a relay, but that's nothing. A PSC motor, relay and cap is far less than just a ECM motor. Thanks!
Im looking to replace my furance, condenser and A Coil. Should I buy a Variable speed or multi speed blower furance?
good job
So Matthew McConaughey has been Moonlighting as an HV AC repairman. Nice.
Alright
Also carrier package units with lh33wp003 are easy to replace just have to relocate g wire off ecm board and plug it back into lh33 board haha
Of course you must check the motors amp draw with ALL of the panels/covers in place.
5:33 Says The Tech with A Black and Decker Drill.
LOL!!!
I'm working on the same thing it's rotation is clockwise I need it to be counter clockwise is there any way to reverse rotation ?
Why doesn’t anybody check if the module or the motor is bad. The module can be replaced separate of the motor. Module alone runs a little under 400 but labor is quick. 2 bolts and 1 plug. Recommend to the customer to have a whole house surge installed. I do need to learn changing it to the other motor. Thanks for taking the time.
great video. I enjoy the "out of the box" process thought when changing x13 over to psc motors. one question, in your years of service do you think the A/C units (of any type) are getting made more poor vs the units 15 - 20 years ago?
they are made to satisfy the government instead of the customet
It mostly comes down to install and pm. Done right, the unit will last a good 20 years. Done wrong.. it’ll be a trane wreck from the start.
VERY GOOD VIDEO WOW THANKS
Thanks
i just installed an ecm x13 motor the rotation is counter clock but this new motor is going clockwise it suppose to run for 30 second and stop then go counter clock but it never did that even after 5 minutes ,is there a way to make it go opposite direction? counter clock
When you replace the emc motor and replace it do you use the same hp?
Coooool!!! Very interesting)!
Were did you hook up your black wire to
I am not a fan of multi speed or variable speed fan motors on a furnace or air handler and two or more stages on both heat and ac because I find a single stage heating and cooling system in my home does not fluctuate the temperatures when cycling therefore I feel comfortable!
Award winning duct system lol
Quick question a lot of times especially on carrier,comfortmaker ,bryant etc the x13 motors will have two speeds that are tapped into the blue wire is usually going to low voltage terminal 2 and white for low voltage tape 4 . My question is what is the purpose of that if even in a heat call you have a g call which would activate low voltage terminal 2 medium speed. Is is a safety ?
+joshua meadows for heat strip calls (like emergency heat)
This is great, wish all was done this way lol
good repair!
Why didn’t you check to see if the motor was good and just the module was bad? I just bought the module after testing and showed the motor was actually good and only cost me 184$ and not 300- 500 for a whole new motor.
I believe u meant 24v coil,to allow line voltage to pass thru the motor........or just replace the motor module itself. Only 2 screws,and a small plug. 99 out of 100,motor good, module bad.
if i connect high voltage to contactor directly and just cover all old ecm wires with tape it will work too no?
24/7
When you change from ecm to psc do you change horsepower ? Good video
+Phillip Joy you can in some cases but I chose to go back with 1/2 hp in this case.
Yes, you need to recommend new or additional ductwork, larger filter surface area. 1.8A on a 1/2HP. Guess what happens when you have low airflow in the summertime? You end up with a high temperature drop. Guess what happens when a cold steel heat exchanger is exposed to very humid outdoor air, whether it’s in Florida or up here in the hypocrite belt. Condensation and rust!
Hilarious "hypocrite belt"
Hey Zack, Thanks for the great video. Could you please explain the reason behind selecting lower blower rpm on heat and higher on cooling mode?
Is higher rpm on cooling mode simply to prevent a possible freeze up on evaporator coil? Or something else?
Thanks
iskoos low speed for heat slows the air to pick up more heat from the exchanger. Cooling needs higher air flow to remove moisture from the air, with out it freezing to the coil
Colder air is more dense and requires more rpm to move.
Nice
Great video. How do you figure out the rpms, I was working with one of those X 13 motors but I did not see the rpm on the motor just the horsepower.
ANENOMETER is the tool for the job, find correct CFM speeds per the product manual. .
How do you know when you can bump up the CFM. My diagram says it should be on 2 but I was wanting to bump it up to 3. The heaters on 4 and 5 is open. 1-5 are all active but I was concerned that going to a higher CFM my be bad and I was hoping you could elaborate on that or direct me to one of your videos if you already covered that
Increasing or decreasing CFM affects both cooing and heating. Cooling side is the compressor and evap, slow the CFM and the evap can freeze/ice over which is a death spin. More frost less air moving through it which = more frost/ice. Continue and liquid refrigerant can get to compressor which isn't what you want. To high CFM and it can affect the efficiency of the evap to remove heat. All components are designed to match each other. Experiment but monitor. Check all air duct and passageways prior to ensure all is right before.
Same on heating side. If furnace, to high cfm and the airflow doesn't match the heat exchanger so it can either trip off on high limit or you get more cfm but register outlet temps are lower. In winter it can feel drafty. Find your desired register outlet temps and experiment.
@@RM-np1gm if you move air across the heat exchanger too fast, wouldn't that lower the possibility of high limit, since you are pushing the heat away from the unit quicker? When limit trips, fan stays on to cool it down.
Hello sir. How can i get in touch with u asap
i still have a 22 yar old carrier furnace. im not looking forward to a new r410 system!
same more pressure more issues
@@joeydelmarsjr.646 No not really its really good we just installed one at my home its running real quite and the be ecm motor is great too starts up slow then ramps up
@@prettycureforever7102 what seer make and model is it
So much for the customer getting variable speed again. At least it didn't cost them an arm and a leg
The original was not variable speed, it was an X13
Considering the age of the unit (7 years) should not the motor been replaced for free under warranty? And that being the case wouldn't it make sense to use the exact oem replacement motor?
That only applies to warranties that are registered
I got a carrier on order. 17 days ETA.
hi,,CAN ANYONE HELP??,,got blower motor only comes on when t-stat is set to ON,,does not come on in AUTO,,just hear a click,,,TRANE;;;mod;;4teh3f36b1000ab,,,,everything works fine but airhandler fan on ly comes on ,,in ON
Most likely the air handler circuit board is bad. Seen a few like that.
Always check tesp.
just replaced my rheem seer 10 3.5ton with rheem seer 16 4ton and this came with and x13 i hope it lasts if not im going psc once the warranty dies
I am sure it will last forever.
@@zacksintheshop forever? No way
Oh yes...FOREVER! X13 modules are as reliable as the sunrise!!
@@nathanhouk402 i got 10yrs of warranty to replace that x13
are the bastard child x13 worth it or just get psc for my new ac unit furnace ??
Get psc. Ive seen these ecm modules fail after one year! Any power issues will kill the board in the module
how does that tester read cfm? i doesn't look familiar to me.
Greetings
You input free area and the vane measures air speed across a return grill
Whats the name for the meter?
+Juan Tapia UEI DAFM3
👍
How come you didn’t use one of those boards? That you just connects the old plugs into it ?
Chicken in a car, and the car won't go. That's how you say Chi-car-go.
john t do you by chance work at walmart as a cart checker? What size bus did you ride in?
Actually. no. I was "fucking around."
I'm at this channel curious as to why industry found it necessary to upgrade from a relatively easy and cheap to maintain capacitor motors, to complicated, expensive 12-pole/with built in inverters to move air.
After all, I'm not sure many service tech's out there are versed in pulse width modulation or phase control techniques in controlling induction motors. So how does industry get around that? Create more parts changers.
Now I see there is a push back to switch to old school.
Bravo!
I'm dealing with a wimpy 2 ton heatpump that needs more balls for the indoor fan speed,they want to feel that air hit their skin
That’s tough since the right airflow may not offer them that result ( of course it can be just wimpy like your saying)
@@zacksintheshopI feel responsible even though I can walk away I am going to see if the company I bought it from will exchange it for a three ton package and I'll pay the difference in cash if they would kindly accept the unit back that's the only way I can make it happen right away if I have the money I would just get them another one right away and sell their unit if
Some smart engineer had nothing to do and designed those ecm blowers instead of keeping it simple with a psc. And then charge double for the ecm.
Gemaire is the shit
I'm new to the field...I was told to buy leather gloves....your not wearing leather gloves...do it matter
I like to party
I'm the stunt man. And I like to party.
Omg i didn't think this was possible to do,they charging me like $1,000 to change the ecm motor,i did just a standard motor cant afford ecm motor
You must size it properly for it to work.
@@zacksintheshop just size rpm & voltage?
As the ecm motors are trash for the most part and over priced to boot, switching to the psc motors is a no brainer.
Only a hack would do this.
Joe hack His still is more hi tech.
We have a universal ECM replacement that makes ECM to PSC conversion much easier. Check out this demo: ruclips.net/video/Fhuy0tWIp28/видео.html
Pulling down because of gravity?
What is gravity-really..?
Newton couldn't even fully define it, as it's only theory. And fully nonsence. If one says this is nonsence, ask yourself, how is it that billions of gallons of rain stays floating above the earth. Not one drop should be up there if gravity were a real thing.
It has to do with atmospheric pressure. Different layers of atmosphere= different pressures. Standard atmospheric pressure is 29.9" of HG which differs at different atmospheres (stratosphere etc...). Also newton explained free fall of gravity is 9.8m/s squared. I only wanted some info on ECM to PSC motor but I'll debunk a flat earther while I'm at it. 😂😂😂
@@tytig94 Much appreciated.
Okay dude. The labels on the side of the unit are there for a reason. You just changed two things. You modified two. The UL label and the efficiency of the unit in one repair. UL label is no longer any good. If the house catches fire because of this system, you are the only one that will pay if sued. Manufacture is out of the picture because of your modification. You got great insurance? You should know ECM motors can deliver more air then PSC motors. If all things are equal, right unit for the house and duct work correct. The efficiency would be on track. Now it is lower and system failure is on track now. I work for a major company. It is our policy not to modify labels on a system of any brand of heating and air unit. Good luck with your modifications.
I got away with mine, I retired. I understand what you are saying. Does that apply to aftermarket ECMs as well? How far do you think that argument goes? This unit actually has the PSC stubs on the board. I realize it is a board used in multiple units. I did have insurance, yes. Liability is required here to be in business. Typically 1 - 2 million as a starting point.
Carl Andrews, although your points are somewhat valid, you are a bit extreme. I own an HVAC company and I appreciate your concerns however this man saved a 7-year-old unit from Death. There’s no way I’d put $1000 worth of motor into that machine. He did his customer a great service and thank God he had the knowledge and the ability to do so. He did everything correct and professionally. There’s no insurance play here
Field modifications do not "void" the UL Listed Mark as long as the modification is being used in it's intended manner. In this case, the tech has installed a UL Listed part (aftermarket PSC motor) and since neither the motor nor the equipment has been modified beyond it's intended use (manner) there is no liability outside of the UL Listed Mark.
You are correct that an X-13 is more efficient in a perfect world, with perfect duct work but ultimately we are at the mercy of our customers. If they will not pay to upgrade the ductwork as needed a PSC is perfectly logical and acceptable modification to keep from needing to replace X-13 motors (or any ECM) due to high static. Not as efficient, true; but it will last much longer.
Don’t know if this applies but freightliner trucks have been doing this on the hvac blower motor on several models that were oem ecm controlled
Smoke some weed & chill my boy
👍