Using Auto Free Hubs and Airing Down | 4xOverland
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2022
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I have an ARB digital inflator. (there are plenty of other brands, both dial & digital).
With the inflator disconnected from the compressor line, (it just clicks together, easy) you can deflate tyres simply by just pressing the inflator handle. When you let handle go it stops deflating & gives you the current pressure.
No need for a separate deflator & no constantly unscrewing & rescrewing the valves either.
Omg that was the most complicated simple explanation ever 😂
Thanks, informative
Good to see how things were done in the 70's.
That is hilarious 😂 being a 70 series I just assume it is a cost saving method as they have a factory bin of them to use when the salesman oversold on an order in 1975 to Toyota purchasing
@@DaciaProject both are correct
I agree with you, engage 4WD early, even go into low range early, it means safer driving and less stress on the vehicle. I think people who boast about what they can do in 2WD are missing the point. It's all about control and safety
Couldn’t agree more. Bragging about one’s “super awesome” achievements in 2wd is almost painful to listen to.
Same here. Is like buying an awesome expensive pair of soccer shoes for the big final game and then leaving them on the bench and playing barefoot.
Or “4wd consumes more fuel, so I’ll keep it in 2wd for as long as possible to save fuel” … the logic 🤦♂️
It’s astounding how unaware many are of varying tyre pressure. Great video 👍
Taught me something. Thank you.
Glad you explained the engaging of the hubs Andrew. Thank you.
In the late sixtys we locked the hubs when leaving Upington for the Kalahari and that save one from stopping the vehicle when meeting an obstacle like a high sand dune on Tillery pan road.
I remember that it also prevent me from overturning my Chev C20 when coming down the pass from Matroosberg during night time.
When I saw that there was a sharp bend in the road, I just engaged into 4-wheel drive and the Chev stayed on all fours through the bend.
I were always under the impression that I could have damage the gearbox.
Thanks for the lesson 👍👍
Crystal clear thank you 👍🏼
Boy there are some angry commenters? I don't know why the comment section has become so toxic?
Seriously people, if you don't like the content, why are you watching it? The title described what he was going to talk about?
I didn't know about the Auto setting on these hubs as I haven't had the pleasure of driving a 4WD with that exact setup. The ones I did drive either had fully automatic hubs or fully manual (locked or freewheel). I am interested in getting a Troopy one day. Their mechanical simplicity is something that I find appealing.
The tire inflator demo was interesting to see, though I think I'll stick with my simple stick pressure gauges for now.
Sorry but you are the only one making a mountain out of a mole hill, no one is complaining or being nasty, stop trying to cause trouble
Love the channel. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the video, great content
The ARB tyre deflates are great. I’ve had many a laugh at mates who have deflated their tyre and unscrewed the deflator before screwing the valve back in. The valve goes flying over their shoulder into the sand never to be found again
The best deflator I’ve used is the “trail heads”. Screw on all 4 tyres then wait a minute or two remove and go.
I always set my pressures at the same time regardless of terrains. Works for me. Steve
You’re spot on - whenever off tarmac, engage 4x4 at all times. It’s a safety precaution, and make sure your at the right/correct tire pressure.
wow thank you sir۔ thanks for all that detail۔
Great video Andrew. Can’t wait till we see our Prado again. Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
For over 10 years I've used the same ARB E-Z Tyre Deflator you have. I got one as soon as it was released. I knew it was going to be a game changer. But late last year I switched to the Campboss Boss Air Tyre Deflators. These again are game changers. Using the Campboss, I can deflate all my tyres almost all at the same time without having to kneel at each tyre waiting for it to deflate. These deflators are essentially a modern version of the Staun tyre deflators. The biggest difference, the Campboss have air pressure markings on each deflators. Which allows easy adjustment of each deflators to the desired pressure without having to use a separate pressure gauge. While the Staun, if changing the pre-set air pressure you've initially set them at, you'll need to deflate the tyre to the required pressure using a deflator with a gauge, then insert the Stuan deflators to adjust to the new pressure, then set. This makes the Campboss version more versitile and quicker to use, especially if you frequently use different tyre pressures on your trips. If sticking to the same pressure each time (ie. always going to the same place like the beach etc), both Campboss and Staun work as good as each other. I still bring my ARB E-Z TD with me, but only as backup. And so far, I haven't had to use it since getting the Campboss TD.
There's a quick way to adjust the Stauns without using a separate tyre pressure gauge to preset them. If you have the Standard version (6-30psi), remember each half turn adjusts the pressure by 3psi (6psi full turn). Simply turn the adjustment cap & locking ring all the way down. And with the Standard version's maximum pressure rating of 30psi (0 turn), then each subsequent full turns will reduce the pressure by 6psi. From personal experience, it's accurate within 1psi.
@@HammerRocks This is perfect. Great tip. If I have to get another set, I would much prefer the Aussie made Stauns.
Man you can talk underwater. I don’t know how you make the most boring content interesting. Respect.
Great video mate.
I think I'll just carry on driving my Land Rover without worrying about any of this stuff. ;-)
Yeah, you got enough to worry about without any of this new stuff :)
Good on ya..just pray you not stranded somewhere anywhere 🤣
Purist!! And hope the hell when you need a part in the black stump there is one actually available in Oz!! 😝
@@robbief1 As a former Land Rover owner of 40 years I appreciate this comment 😂😂. Now have a Hilux as Land Rover have stopped making proper 4x4s 👍🏻🇬🇧
@@tonyf7997 Yeah, I'd probably pick something other than a landie in Oz. :-/
LR reliability aside, though, you gotta wonder why jap' manufacturers insist on building 4WD systems with all this faff involved, rather than just going for a permanent 4WD.
Honestly, I think it's just because they want you to feel like you've got something "special" because you've got all the extra toys to play with.
Even ASPW, himself, has made several video's questioning whether 2WD/4WD and free-wheeling hubs actually provide any benefit.
Making the choice to own a 4x4 and then driving it in 2WD is kind of like buying a car with seatbelts and then deciding you're only going to wear them before you have a crash.
great video Andrew, very informative, if you get a chance can you do a review on your falcon m/t tyres as they look like they are wearing very nicely, but maybe they are still to new
we use land cruisers as our spray Utes for work never had trouble with the auto hubs engaging while still moving, it has always been my understanding that's what they are for. Situations where you weren't expecting to need 4wd you can just pull the transfer gear leaver into 4wd and get out where you would have been stuck with standard locking hubs, and if you were planning on needing 4wd you engage them.
I have the same type hubs on my V6 LC79. I really like the color of your troopy.
When I was a kid my Dad had a 1989 F-150 with fully manual hubs and a manual transmission. No auto anything. One advantage of manual hubs is that you get 2WD low range by leaving the hubs unlocked. This was great for backing up to trailers, backing up trailers, and other things where one might want low speed/high torque for extra precision; but didn't want the drive line binding up with tight steering angles or on a high traction surface. The manufactures replaced capabilities with convenience because convenience is what the most common denominator wants. People also didn't realize they could leave the hubs locked and just disengage the transfer case and be out of 4x4.
I've tried the arb tyre deflator it leaked on both that I tried it could have just been a bad batch and atleast the store were excellent about Rectifying the situation I use a different brand and have had better reliability with it sealing
I only ever find myself putting air in my tyres. It quite happily finds its way out by itself.
Love my ARB deflator
I switched from auto to manual hubs in my 02 Xterra last year. This logic makes total sense to me and explains why i have noticed a much smoother transition into 4wd on the move. Yes, when I had auto hubs it would shift but often with some racket. If nothing else, I feel like this is easier on the drivetrain.
Waste of time and money. You made your 4wd system worse
@@jarrod1687 all i know is that combined with the front lokka, manual hubs where the best choice for me and are performing well. Your experience may vary of course.
Love the vids, maxtrax indeflate by far is waaay better than the ARB deflator. So much simpler and you won’t ruin your valves … enjoy 👍
They are a mess of tubing, what a vile contraption
Agree, Indeflate is quick and easy to use. Also ensures that tyres across axle are of equal pressure
Totaly agree
Finally someone says look at the tyre - not the tyre gauge. I always try and keep tyres 'looking the same' front and back, once you have the shape you want, use the gauge.
Marty from Perth
No mate. Things are different in WA you guys think you know it all. Sand driving that’s it. One thing. Wake up.
There are actual charts that tyre manufacturer's use for their tyres to establish tyre pressure requirements for individual tyre loads and Australian conditions, It surprised me how high my Australian Toyo Tech recommended for my individual axle weights on my heavy tourer and using their Toyo Open Country AT II in a 245/70 R 16 size with a load rating of 118 so substantion side wall strength. Highway F 50 psi R 56 psi, off road F 38 psi R 49 psi, off road rocky F 33psi and R 44 psi Sand F21 psi and R 27 psi. All a lot higher than I was under the impression I should be using. I am yet to test out all of these combinations but a Toyo Company tyre tech should have the goods along with the ability to utalize the USA Tire and Rim Association charts too. I gave the Tech the actual weights on the two axles of the vehicle from a weighbridge visit loaded for touring.
Ecellent Info
Well, I've always just shifted to 4high while driving below 40kmh with my hubs in the auto position. And somehow without anything exploding the front driveshaft, diff and axles all spin up to speed instantly. I feel like a savage now you've mentioned it.
I'm pretty sure the Toyota supports engaging 4H at speed. I know my Suzuki Jimny can shift to 4H as long as your are under 80kmh
very good topic s as most 4x4s use auto locking hubs miss the old warn Manuel locking hubs
those leaf springs look good haha
You need an in-deflate to let the tyres down. Much much better
I used the ARB Deflator for more than 10 years. But The Ironman Deflator is much better, it improved all the ARB shortcomings.
THANK YOU.
Evening Andrew, thanks so much for that amazing as well as educating video, keep on making more video. But still I don't understand why Toyota moved from manual hubs to auto free hubs, because I really don't see a difference.., I thought the reason why they came up with auto free hub is to engage four wheel drive while your inside the car but not to get out of the car. or maybe you can explain it to me.. more please
I always wondered about that kind of manually locking hub. Seems it would be much more durable than air air/electric air lockers. Great video as always!
not the same thing. These lock the hubs. Not the diff.
I push a button, magic happens, and I'm in 4wd. Nowadays we don't have to worry about manual locking hubs.
Until the magic fails you - inevitably at the most inconvenient time!
Not as common in rural communities for a reason
I do that in my 2001 105 series
Completely dinosaur system of engaging 4wd
2003 Grand Cherokee - I don't even need to do that!
I think the IndaFlate is the most convenient & fastest
I do 2 wheels at a time and do not have to crew out/in the valve
Got one aswell but i think if u run around the car the arb one is quicker but the indafale is much more easier plus u get to stand while ur doing it and can pump up 2 tyres at the same time
Use an air regulator for deflating to a set pressure
One answer, Mitsubishi Super select: 2wd on tar…shift to 4 wd on tar while doing 100kmph…..go on gravel, move to 4wd still on high speed and at 100 kmph lock centre diff. Done enough said.
Correct me if I'm wrong but they have drive flanges which present a issue in the event of a mechanical faliure you can't disconnect the shafts and could lock up the front diff at speed if driven broken
One answer. There is nothing quality or good about any Mitsubishi.
Mitsubishi have been changing to 4wd on the move for 30 years without a tyre iron...
True, very easy in thr Paj
This is exactly what I’ve thought all along … Look at the shape of the tires, because that’s what masters.
Did anybody else see the guy laying down in the road behind Andrew? 7:27
Prados centre diff lock is so much easier, engage 4wd from all wheel drive at any speed with the press of a button, so glad I don’t have to muck around with this anymore
Didn’t know prados came in 4wd??
Hi mate.
Where did you get the Toyota centre on the steering wheel to replace the PVS? Having trouble finding one! Thanks
In a previous video I believe he said ebay to suit a 200 serise
Lovely, spot on
Andrew my Iveco is constant 4wd. Don't need to worry about waving a spanner in the air. 24 forward gear ratios 4 reverse and traction galore. Oh diff locks front, centre, and rear. Yes sir ee Bob!
Problem is you don’t see many of Ivecos around because there so unreliable in the Longrun, 10 years from now yours will be in the junkyard
I like the fact the toyota hubs have a lock option for the hubs, the Ford superduty's have the same option for lock or auto. But I have 1 question, is it really that hard to let off the throttle when you go to engage 4wd?
I'd suspect it's more mechanical sympathy
My 2018 VJD76 (same 4WD system as Andrew's VDJ78) wouldn't go into 4WD in the auto hub position unless I was at a complete stop or slightly rolling. So locking the auto hub is actually very handy.
Can we lock the hubs and drive in 2wd in Tar,??? Or is that stated logic only to LC70?
of course. Many 4wd vehicles are built with no way of unlocking their front hubs at all.
I let my tyres downs and go by look and the feel of the vehicle to Judge weather I need to go lower
Does this mean I can engage 4WD when the hubs are selected “auto” if I stop the car and do it? Will it then be in 4WD when I drive off even though the hubs are not in the “lock” position?
Yes. Lock them manually when you intend to use low range. They are not strong enough for use in low range when they auto lock. I leave them locked the moment I leave the asphalt and they stay that way my entire trip, then unlock them again when heading home. There is no need or point to locking them, unlocking them again and again.
Absolute luxury compared to "the old days" when we fitted AVM free-wheel hubs to our older series Landrovers and had no choice but to get out to flick the dial to lock whenever we wanted the font wheels to be in 4WD...
@@krump743 I guess I didn't explain my memories of over 30 years ago very well... I was in a Landrover Owners Club and can certainly remember that no-one had the hubs engaged driving on "normal" roads to help with mileage. When you got to a track and wanted to either push the yellow knob for 4WD, or pull the red lever for low range 4WD you stopped and engaged your (aftermarket of course) AVM. To be fair a lot of us installed the AVM for the main benefit of stopping the leaks from the awful felt seals in the hub... then we found it helped with mileage too... so habitually we left the front train free-wheeling til we needed it...
Not an issue on my 110 defender
Ps. I recall visiting family on their 1 million acre (plus) cattle station. I had the best suspension, tyres, set up. I looked at the 4x4s on the property and asked “pete, whats the best tyres and tyre pressures for rocky, sand dune type of country?” He said, after a slight pause, “black, round and holds air”. I got the shits a bit and said “seriously, what pressure and tyre pattern?” He replied “your set up will get u an extra 20 metres, we dont have time for that shit”…… and that sums it up. Enjoy your coca cola
Wrong on the Auto hubs unless you meant going to 4L no need to stop for 4H under 50Km
Was that your knees cracking when you crouched to deflate rear tyre?
The ARB method must be tho most fiddly and least quick way to deflate a tire.
What about Indeflate, or even the simple indeflate-nuts you screw on, which you can set to your desired psi and they stop when they reach set level.
Yes I love my InDeflate - best bit of kit to complete airing up and down in 2022!
I bought a indeflate, but I have a Jimny, massive overkill, air’s down two tyres in about 30 seconds, and airs back up in a minute 😂
@@KaizenOz - something you will have for years to come if looked after and kept clean and dust free!
@@tonyf7997 how do you take into account how heavy/light your car is loaded and wether you drive on sand, snow, stores or in mud? Readjust your deflators or do you have more than one set?
@@BittnerBuddenbrock - I have my weights of unladen vehicle with all accessories and a full tank of fuel and approximate the gear loaded to go away.
In sand I usually go 18psi all around on sand and 20psi on dirt tracks but adjust if and when needed from experience!
The Indeflate allow user to deflate or inflate 2 tyres at once and equalise the pressures , so I do from then rear. Also available is the quad to do all 4 at once if so desired!
Steers with a couple of fingers of one hand. What a great example to all the noobs.
you found something to criticize. Well done. Good effort.
@@4xoverland thought you weren't reading comments?
I'm a fellow senior , but hope not to meet you head on ;
Standard configuration (general specs) on a 70- series is no freewheeling or automatic hubs at all
Meaning: all shafts are rotating permanently (which is good). Also recommended by Toyota's owners manual (engage freewheeling hubs regularly to ensure proper lubrication). 4WD available whenever required
Every bit of this was well said.
Yep….clear as mud.
I dont like the current hubs on my dual cab. I miss the manual locking ones looked into changing them but was simply too expensive
This makes no sense. Treat them EXACTLY like you would your manual hubs. The ONLY difference is that, if you chose to, you can engage 4wd from inside the cab, in auto-mode, but only when stopped.
@@4xoverland i dont like using the spanner mate. I prefer just having the ability to turn them by hand. the auto set up means the hubs arnt fully locked onto the spline? Which makes that weaker 🤔 just a thought. Love the build
@@4xoverland ps. I dont muck around with tyre inflation either. I set mine, depending on load, and thats it. Never had an issue. (Had probably the same number of 4x4s as yourself). I find “fucking araound” with stuff increases risk of failure.. just a thought
What size rims? Anyone know i may have missed that episode.
These are 16" rims. I prefer 16" rims.
Heads up, don’t hell.
I don't see the difference with the old free and Lock system someone explain to me. Asking from Kenya.
The auto locking hubs means that if you engage 4wd inside the cab,. the hubs will lock automatically. But this can only be done when the vehicle is not moving. To engage 4wd when moving, the hubs need to be locked manually first, which can be done just like the old types.
Toyota 4WD is as antiquated as my 1988 Nikon FM2 currently lying in a storage bin.
True, but take them anywhere globally and expect reliability for at least 10 years before you need to do more than an oil change and change filters.. keeps on keeping on!
Maxtrax indeflate is way better as it will balance the 2 tyres pressures exactly.
Had automatic hub locks and changed them for manuals since the automatic do open when the car rolles back which might be unavoidable in difficult situations leaving you with 2WD! Automatic hub lock setting is - for me - an unnecessary setting with only disadvantages.
Many comments here reveal a misunderstanding of auto hubs. If you treat them EXACTLY the same as with manual hubs, then they act exactly like manual hubs. Just don't use the auto function. Treat them as you would manual hubs. No disadvantages as all.
@@4xoverland meaning your hubs must have 3 settings!? Auto (closing only when the axle is driven; open when dragged) - fixed open & fixed closed! My auto-hubs where OME Pajero (1991), my manual were AVM
Or you could just drive a permanent 4WD vehicle and never have to worry about cocking around with 2WD, Hubs and or when or lock or not lock them or indeed when to engage or disengage 4WD.
As for tyre pressures - a tyre can only carry it’s maximum weight at it’s maximum pressure. So if you are fully laden, dropping your tyre pressures isn’t an option as the load carrying capability of the tyre must remain at max. If you lower the pressure - you can’t carry as much load. Only time this is false is if the load carrying capacity of your tyres has a higher rating than the weight you have on it when your vehicle is fully laden.
Also - I never drop tyre pressures just to drive on a gravel road.
It make me laugh some of these comments, making out like it's a hardship to manually lock the hubs. He's got these hubs for strength and reliability obviously. The comments have been infected by a case of smart-arsedness.
Its just a good natured ribbing.
So why not just lock hubs permanently?
Dear Andrew. I am sure you are actively preparing to edit and release CSR videos. Do not compact them too much. We want to have the chance to admire the scenery. Just looking at the images is great. Give us videos that we can contemplate. All the best.
CSR 2022 is on the edit bench now. Could be one of the best series I've ever made. 4XO Patreons will get early releases, later this month.
Pajeros you dont need to stop, only need to stop if you want to go to low range.
The car looks truly amazing ASPW, I actually think this looks slightly better than the old green girl, great colour combo
Yeah agree - now my favourite colour.
When lowering your pressures don't go for a "similar look"....the most efficient way to do this (on fairly flat ground) is measure the bottom of the wheel lip to the ground to show how many centimeters of sidewall height you have. You want the tires on the front axle to have the same sidewall height as the rear axle (and vice a versa). This method takes into account the weight on each axle (rarely the same) and also gives you the same static load radius on both axles. Theoretically this should make the 4WD's system center diff lock happier since both axles now have the same tire radius which is the mechanical "lever" the drive train is working to turn. Once you lower the pressures so the sidewall is the same height front and rear, take psi measurements and put them in your notes so you know where and how the vehicle acts at various matching sidewall heights and vehicle weight balance.
You lost me on the locking front hubs....on all my vehicles with auto locking front hubs that can also be manually turned to "lock" can be engage into 4wd high at speeds up to 50 mph when the hub is in auto. When I "lock" the front hubs I then have full compression braking and connection of the drivetrain when going from forward to reverse. The auto locking units can free wheel for a revolution or so when changing directions which can cause you to get stuck or spin the rear tires in dicey situations. I'm not familiar with your Toyota's system as we don't have that vehicle in the USA.....maybe it's different that what I know.
I have had "automatic" and "manual" locking hubs and think your explaination needs a bit of clarification.
- Locking hubs lock the end of the axle with the wheel!
- automatic locking hubs lock the hub automatically when the axle is activly "driven" forward, unlocking the hub when the wheel is pulled backwards!
In difficult situations, when one has to roll back a bit - i.e. to get around a tight turn - the hubs may unlock and leave you with 2WD since it takes one whole spin - ~2,5m - of the wheel to relocate the hub! When this happens the only way to lock the hubs is by lifting the wheel and driving the axle forward which might be very difficult if the car is not level.
This said was the reason why I went to "manual" lock hubs with only two settings locked or open!
Once the hubs are locked the front axle is always turning regardless whether "driven" or "dragged". 4WD can and should always be engaged when on slippery ground - do NOT wait until you "need" it is our military SOP!
The transfer case setting "high" and "low" is a second matter. Change only when your car is not moving at all!
The 3rd issue on permanent 4WD vehicles is the center differential which may be locked while the car is moving (coasting).
I wrote all this since your mentioning of "automatic" hubs was a bit confusing to me. I hope I only supported your explaination, no intention to contradict.
When you are in 4WD it is important to have the tire measurement front and rear……..
Camp boss tyre deflators are way better
That was one of the most over complex ways to explain the hubs ever.
Too many cokes.
No need to lock them. Engage 4wd while moving. Even manual hubs, just leave them locked full time, engage when needed with leaver in cab
FACT: One cannot lock into 4wd while moving unless the hubs are locked. Auto hubs cannot lock while moving. FACT. Not open for discussion.
@@4xoverland how come my manual states I can can engage 4wd high range (not low) with my auto hubs as long as I'm doing less than 50kmh?
Imagine not being able to engage 4H while moving, even a Hilux can do it.
They only just got cupholders and Bluetooth the last few years. 1 thing at a time 😄
Did any one else see the random person laying in the middle of the road at 7:25. Wtf
i just went back and saw that. So random
Instagram speed hump
how to use auto hubs,
step 1 unbolt them.
step 2 throw them in the bin.
step 3 fit proper manual locking hubs
Lock them when off road. Unlock them when not. How difficult is that? It's just that if they are left in auto setting during heavy off road work they are weak. So just lock them!
@@4xoverland auto hubs are weaker even when locked.
They are strong enough for general-purpose use. Competition use, then not strong enough.
@@4xoverland not strong enough for an overweight tourer.
Disagree. I have over 300 000 kms of overland touring in these Land Cruisers, including Canning Stock Route (twice), Simpson, Gibson, Gibb River and countless other trips, and never had to replace one. They are just fine if used properly.
You look like you have lost some weight Andrew
Spitle??? WTF 😳
Yes -spitle ! Andrew seems to be well read and uses correct grammar and wording if you have not noticed.. educated !!
@@tonyf7997
Kefa.
Fastest tire deflation, just use a valve remover screw driver, take the valve out wait 45s check pressure put valve back in. I used to use the arb one but way better with a simple screwdriver
My partner has a valve screwdriver and pressure gauge on her side and I have one on mine I handle right side she does left, we take the front wheel valve out, then walk to the back wait 10s and take the back valve out, then check pressure in the front and put valve back in, by the time we have done that, the back one will need be ready for its valve to go in. All up lees than 2 min for all 4 tires on 35s
Actually I think me and my partner will be able to deflate all 4 tires faster than an arb will be able to do one. I’ll test that and let you know, it’ll be seconds in it either way.
I hadn't seen manual hubs since I was a kid. I'm surprised Toyota still uses them.
Yes manual hub locks are very reliable
I don’t have the ability to tell a story, but u do.
Did you have too many coke’s, you seem to be even more hyper than normal, too much caffeine.
Since. when has this become rocket science….. FFS
Unless you are driving on the road, set your hubs to auto.
Why
@@thomaswilliam630 Unless you are on a 2WD friendly road, set your hubs to auto. So you can put the vehicle into 4WD without the need of stopping.
@@mozartheart2958 I leave mine in auto all the time, but I never need to manually lock the hubs where am I drive off-road, I just simply put the gear into four-wheel-drive on my land cruiser 79 and it automatically goes into four-wheel-drive and gives me a green little picture on the dashboard, What’s the difference with moving it in manual
@@mozartheart2958 I have never used the manual locking, when do you use yours?
@@thomaswilliam630 You are correct, sorry. I meant, unless you are on a 2WD friendly road, set your hubs to manual as per what I understood from Andrew's video. He mentioned that the speed of both axles should be the same before engaging 4WD that's why you need to stop before engaging 4wd if hubs are set to auto. If it is on manual then just engage 4wd without stopping. Engaging 4WD in auto while the car is moving might cause damage. I think it is better to refer to the TOYOTA manual to verify if it is a requirement to stop the car before engaging 4WD, if hubs are on auto.
You are dictating not telling a story. Or just need to put content out?😞
I don’t have the ability to tell a story, but u do.
The Indeflate system available in SA is far superior for deflating or inflating tyres. You can get a system that does 2 tyres at a time, or one that does all four at simultaneously....