Automatic vs Manual (Freewheeling) Hubs - Installing Manual Hubs on Isuzu MUX
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2018
- This video looks at automatic vs manual (freewheeling hubs) and the benefits of upgrading to freewheeling hubs. Plus how to install on an Isuzu MUX.
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Andrew Applepie - / andrewapplepie
Hello
First time I've done a video like this so go easy on me haha. Hopefully it made sense and I got everything right, let me know what you think.
Thanks :)
Was good bud, Dragged on just a little in the middle but was good overall
Thanks mate
It was good Tyler sort of makes me think abit about doing mine. Are you going to convert yours over as well
Cheers! Yeah I'd say I will do mine down the track, seems like a worthy upgrade
Oh yes! I have wondered for years about free wheeling hubs. I couldn’t understand why you’d add them to a newer car. Your explanation was terrific.
Really very informative, I like the way you just don’t have an ego. If you don’t know something, you’ll say, keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks mate! No point pretending I know everything when I don't haha
Made a lot of sense.. well explained. Cheers! I learned something today.
Thanks mate, glad it helped :)
Awesome straightforward explanation, no mucking around as 90% junk out there... thumps up
Great work Tyler very informative ........ Keep well and safe as always
Thanks mate!
Really appreciate this video. Well done, really well explained!
Thank you!
Best explanation yet mate thanks
Great tutorial Tyler...learnt heaps.
Cheers mate :)
A different kind of vid I really enjoyed it it's all ways good to have a refresher course Thank you a merry and happy Christmas to you and your family your dad needs a walk on part 😅 safe travels
Thanks mate! Merry Christmas to you too!
Great video, really helpful. THANX!!!
It does makes sense and it does looks great also mate!
Great description for the average punter. 👍🏼👍🏼
A very useful information. Thanks. Keep it up.
Thanks mate!
Could auto locking hubs cause grinding noise? My 1994 has a grind noise coming from the front end and thinking it may be differential, but hoping its the hubs. Would it be a good idea to buy aftermarket manual hubs?
I'll leave a link to this video in mine mate I'll just be like yea watched this fella's video for the various things you covered.
Cheers mate 👍
Explained it very well!! Thank you
Thanks!
TIP: Be careful with the cheaper free wheeling hubs for Collie's, Rodeo's and D Max / MUX have a bad habit of self destructing.. RA Rodeo on (including RC Colorado, Dmax /MUX) run a front diff actuator engaged by a servo motor. ie the CV's still turn but no drive goes through the diff itself. eg With your Dad's MUX put the free wheeling hubs in the LOCK position with the wheels on the ground still. Climb underneath and you will find you can still turn the front driveshaft! If the diff remained engaged as it is on Hilux etc you would not be able to turn the front driveshaft. It is not until you engage 4H or 4L that the front diff actuator engage the front diff. Great vid mate. Gotta love the old TF 2.8 Rattledeo! Miss mine lol
Too much confusion here between Auto Hubs and Fixed hubs. The MUX, Navara, et al do not have auto hubs at all - they have fixed hubs The piece that you removed is a solid piece connecting the axle to the hub via the 6 bolts. There is such a thing as an Auto Hub - they are factory parts on many Nissan Patrols. When you put the Patrol into 4WD and drive forwards, they will lock the axle to the hub, which is great, but if you reverse on a hill to take a new line the hub will unlock and leave you in 2WD in a precarious position. To overcome this, the Patrol Auto Hubs have a wheel nut sized fitting so you can manually lock the hub as well. I have replaced mine with fully manual hubs which are better for me, especially as I have an Autolocker in my front diff. (not to be confused with Auto Hubs :) )
Hey Mate, thinking of doing the same setup on my patrol as I have a Detroit locker sitting around in my garage and the rear factory LSD has worked quite well for me so far. Just wondering if you get any problems with the front locker making noise engaging/disengaging when the hubs are in freewheeling position?
@@chrisbenato8841 Mine is a Lockrite brand, similar to the Lokka. I think the Detroit is slightly different in operation, but works very well - a mate has one in his Troopy. He drove home from Dargo to Melbourne after breaking a rear axle, so they are good. You will get no noise if you unlock the hubs, as both disengaged axles will turn at the same speed all the time. My Lockrite can barely be heard on full lock when it is releasing the outer wheel. Only thing I have an issue with is reversing up a tight hill to get round a switchback - it will bind in this one situation. Solution is to not use full lock, then it's fine. The Detroit may be noisier and behave differently, but mate in Troopy loves his.
Amazing explanation thank you!
A******* Well done young mad being the wrong side of 65 I still learnt something so thank you for your time
I use free wheeling hubs on my MY2014 Colorado. I leave them free and select 4L and it feels like Im in 4WD on the bitumen to push my caravan up an incline but my transfer case does not bind up. Can you explain why it feels like 4L but does not bind up when on the bitumen reversing my van with ease.
I'm confused you said that with remote hub lock the the axle but still spins them... so what spins freely when when you are in 4wd with auto hubs unlocked. The hubs arnt always locked... so dose it disconnect at the front drive shaft and not the hubs when you turn off rfw?
thanks for the vid, very informative! when you guys were rescuing the vehicle with its busted diff did it suffer any further damage due to the auto hub?
Cheers! Nope wasn't any further damage fortunately
Good video Tyler. I know this vid is 2 years old, but it was what I was looking for. I have a question and would welcome opinions. I have a Nissan Frontier pro-4x that I wanted to put a front diff locker in. The only choices I have found are the ARB and the Lokka. The ARB is to expensive, but I do not like the idea of putting an automatic locking diff in a daily driver. So I was thinking maybe I could get the Lokka locker and put freewheeling hubs on the truck. Maybe keeping the steering from being affected and reducing noise on the street. Do you or your readers have any thoughts on a setup like that? Thanks!
See my comment above - I have an AutoLokka in the front.
Hey mate, what a great explanation. I've got auto hubs on my patrol and will probably look at putting on free wheeling hubs at some time. Just weighing up the cost atm as I have camping gear to upgrade as well.
Thanks mate, appreciate it!
You can make a simple modification the the Patrol Auto hub which converts them to a fully manual hub. Doesn't cost anything but a few minutes of your time. However, they are ultimately a pretty weak hub (I have burst a converted hub, no fun where it happened) so when you have the dosh grab a pair of these Hulk Hubs for it.
Nice explanation. Thanks.
Thanks Tyler, great demo. I do wonder how this would save the diff next time as once they are locked what difference it's makes?
It means if you break the diff you can still use just 2wd.
Thank you for educating me btw, gonna get me some manual lockers from an Isuzu at the scrap yard and hide them in my toolbox on the way out, free ninety five lol
Very good family video. Your great.
Great video mate. Did this to a 2005 Mitsubishi challenger but for some reason it worked once then after that it wouldn't allow drive to the hubs regardless of what position it was in. Was a strange one but it's back to the constant drive now and works like it should.
Cheers mate. Hmm that's a weird one hey
@@TylerThompson90 Yeah it was annoying. Got stuck a few times thinking it was all good. Pulled it apart, everything looked fine worked in the driveway then nothing after that. Putting it down to a defective product.
Well explained, thanks mate!
Cheers mate!
So it is better to buy a full time awd truck with manual locking hubs. You can always disconnect the hubs and make it 2wd instead of buying a part time awd and risking of binding the gears and parts?
Very helpful thank you!!
When you install the manual hub, is the ABS still functioning??
I solved the problem of the 4x4 operation by mounting the manual tyrex hubs instead of the automatic ones that always gave problems in my 2001 Suzuki Jimny 4x4 with m13a engine and to change the automatic hubs and check the vacuum system to insert the 4x4 would have spent a lot of money euros between spare parts and labor! (greetings from florence italy!)
Wow super interesting, It has been the first time that I saw it is posible to change automatic to free wheel
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent information thank you for sharing, will be doing this mod to my 2010 Colorado which is a rebadged Isuzu, simple yet sassy! cheers
Cheers mate! Definitely a good little upgrade
Don't follow this example mate.
He hasn't even checked the endfloat
Mick H .Different engine my friend,Isuzu much better.
I've got a RC Colorado - basically the same as a DMax. It has a LSD in the rear that seems to work pretty well. It has an open front diff - which is a big weakness with the car. So I put an Auto Lokka diff lock into the front diff. Auto Lokkas are normally locked till the difference in axle torque opens the lock. This works fine except in 2wd the RH wheel drives the RH axle and so the diff which drives the front drive shaft and which drives the chain drive in the transfer box. Which increases my fuel consumption. So I've ordered an Aisin freewheel hub for the RH front wheel - to help improve fuel economy. If this works out all right I'll order another for the LH wheel so I can get low range in 2wd - for eg pulling a heavy trailer up my steep driveway.
And the hub plastic cover? Is it possible to use it or not?
*whether it can be put on lada niva ?*
Thanx
I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with a 5 speed manual will locking hubs work I don’t have Tod but I have to push a button to lock it in 4x4
Good video mate, informative as well, one thing that always scares the shit outta me is doing a CV out in the bush. As you, i have very limited mech knowledge- if not none, lol. and didn't even know this was an option, if my car is able to that is. but thanks mate, given me something to keep in mind and investigate. good job.
Thanks mate, appreciate it! Glad the video helped :)
Rad vid...Should do more of them...
Thanks mate, will start trying to do a few more :)
I thought it was a great video! Thanks
Cheers mate!
Well explained I subscribed that's why
If you are in 4wd and you break one of the front CV joints, can you unlock that hub and become a 3wd? Probably a very stupid question but it popped in to my head so i asked it.
So you will only have 3wd if you have a front locker to engage. If you don't have a front locker your 4wd will go back to 2wd even if you only unlock the one hub because the front diff will just send all drive to the 'wheel of least resistance', meaning the broken one. And then the one thats still working won't receive any drive
Is it safe to lock front diff but don’t shaft to 4x4 and drive on pavement
Nice job explaining to me
Does this work on the 2023 D-Max?
Hay mate great video. How have these hubs held up any issues. I'm looking to get them for my colorado. Cheers
Hey mate, thank you, they've been all good, no issues so far 👍
Thanks for the reply mate. Keep up the good content.
Not sure if freewheeling hubs can be fitted to current PX Ranger & current Hilux. Would be a worth while addition.
Hey mate, yeah I'm not too sure hey, I know you can get them for a lot of 4wd's these days. Just need to search around a bit I guess
Best video!!!
I suggest you put some medium strength loctite on the allen key nuts. Had mine rattle themselves loose and almost fall off on a 10 day trip! And a marine grade liquid gasket instead of the paper one.
Thanks for the tips mate! I'll let dad know
Out of all the different suspension brands the family, friends and yourself run, which would you rate?
To be honest I haven't had much experience with suspension, I have tough dog which has been really good and dad has bilstein which has been good so far too. Thats the only brands we have dealt with and they have both been good haha
Superb explosion 🔥🔫
Much appreciated.
When the hub engaged are all the wheels lock, like a locker or just 4x4
So if you break a CV on the drivers side say, and you then stick the hub into freewheel, can you still stay in 4 wheel drive and use it to effectively drive the car in 3 wheel drive as the locker on the passenger side is still engaged? Or once you snap a CV you have to unlock both hubs and limp out in 2WD while still being in low range 4 wheel drive?
Hey mate, so yeah if you have a front locker you can put that in and just disengage the hub on the side with the broken CV and then still use 3 wheel drive. If you don't have a front locker it would be 2wd only.
@@TylerThompson90 thanks for that. That was what I was thinking as well, so gona go ahead and stick them on the DMAX. Cheers.
@@TylerThompson90, why on earth would you disconnect the CV from the wheel by utilising the freewheeling hub, then go ahead and lock the front diff so it spins munching itself anyway?
If you snap 1 cv, can you run your car in 3 wheel drive and only make the broken cv side free wheeling?
Only if you have a front locker can do you that. If you engage the front locker then you will still give drive on the non broken side but if you don't have a locker then all the drive will go to the broken wheel (diff sends drive to the wheel of least resistance)
Cheers for the reply mate, could help save someone one day. Keep up the good videos mate, love your work
Can you leave these locked all the time and only unlock them when you break a cv
Yeah you can leave them locked in all the time if you want mate, will just mean your axles are still always rotating
What tyres are you and the old man running Tyler
We are both running 265/75/R16 mud terrain tyres. Mine are general grabber and he has Toyo
You have hub flanges not automatic hubs! Hub flanges are indeed always locked, automatic hubs aren’t. I have all three types laying around and also prefer manuals on a daily driver and flanges for strength. But auto hubs are a different kind of animal.. just to pull straight some misinformation. However nice detailed and good video👌🏽
Great Vid
Thanks!
Do you know if they make a Gasket kit for the hubs?
Not that I know of mate but I'm not 100% sure sorry
@@TylerThompson90 all good thanks for the reply. Great video. Looks like an epic trip.
I love the bit when you grew a third arm
haha!
So dumb question. If you just leave them in the locked position for daily use would that be the same as the factory auto hubs?
Yep thats correct
@@TylerThompson90 thanks mate.
What happens if you engage the 4x4 but the hubs are unlocked?
Did you ever figure this out?
in autohubs, will the front axles still spin when 4wd is not engaged?
Yeah they will turn constantly, even in 2wd
@@TylerThompson90 so if u have a manual hubs you can disengage the axles by twisting the dial to free?
@@jorickearlbastian253 Yep that's correct, and then the axles won't move when you drive
@@TylerThompson90 thanks mate :)
Tyler the Mux and Dmax are different to most other 4wds like your Navara , they don't actually have auto Hubs , they have a drive plate .
That's what you would of replaced with the FWH's , they also have a sliding sleeve in the front Diff that engages when you engage 4WD in the transcase ,
When in 2wd yes the 2 front CV axles are turning but only part of the Diff and the front drive shaft from the transcase will not turn
because that sliding sleeve in the front Diff will not be engaged.
Jack both the front wheels of the Mux off the ground and spin the wheels , with the Hubs unlocked and locked you will see what I mean
When I fitted FWH's to my Dmax , I was told do not fit the gasket that come with the Hubs , it will cause the bolts to come loose .
I forgot and fitted it and sure enough the first time I used 4WD , guess what happened , bloody things came loose .
So make sure you keep a check on them , mark them with a marker pen , easy to check
I removed the gasket and used Loctite 518 Flange sealant that I was told to use in the first place , no further problems .
Also the free play between the circlip and shims ( washers ) to the Hubs , I was told was a critical measurement and has to be right
I got some extra shims of a few sizes and stuffed around with feeler gauges until , I got it right .
All the best keep up Videos you do a great job , keep a close eye on those bolts .
Hey mate, thanks for the information. You sound like you know a lot more then me haha, my mechanically knowledge is pretty basic. I'll definitely let him know about the gasket as he was a little worried about that and was debating whether he should take it off and put something else there so he may end up doing that. Thanks for that!
Good response and technically correct. I have also fitted Free Wheeling Hubs to my MY17 D-Max. Also had them on my MY10 model. Advantages are * Reduced wear on your CV joints when hubs not engaged * Slightly reduced fuel consumption (not driving CV joints for no reason) * Great for reversing a caravan up a steep angled driveway in low range, with the hubs disengaged (not binding up front end in 4WD on hard surfaces). Of course the downside is that you have to get out of your car to engage the hubs! By the way ,I've also had the problem with the bolts coming loose - definitely need locktite!
Yep there is definitely a few good advantages of having them!
Good vid. Free wheeling hubs are stronger than the auto hubs as they can slip.
I very much doubt that a Hulk Hub is stronger than the solid block that forms the factory fixed hub.
I guess the Isuzu MUX and D max already have a front axle disconnect mechanism....electrically actuated once you select 4H on the selector knob.
So it might not require a locking hub but check for the front axle specifications.
Good video 👍
Okay thank you!
I had a 2008 Jackaroo with TOD which had a vacuum front axle disconnect on the left front. Not on the right front. Mitsubishis and a few other s also have a front axle disconnect system, Rodeos of that era also had it. I'm curious if the newest MUX/DMAX has the disconnect.
@@einfelder8262
oriparts.com/34/166/1208/380122#schema_80804
This link has a parts catalogue.
@@einfelder8262 click the link.
Click on " Front axle No.2"
@@intercept7965 Nice, thanks for that. Looks like it is now electrical rather than the vacuum actuator I had on the Jackaroo. The Jack (Monterey model) had the TOD system with clutches in the transfer case as well as the chain drive.
It should therefore be possible to lock the actuator in the engaged position when manual hubs are installed. A Lokka could also be installed in the diff with manual hubs and actuator locked. The MUX/DMAX would be a much nicer weapon.
Can you fit them to your Navara?
I'm not sure if they make them for the np300 yet mate, need to find out
@@TylerThompson90 I searched Marks4wd.com and they were NOT listed for my 2016 Ranger nor your 2015 NP300.
What was the cause of the front diff to blow
We don't really know what happened, whole thing just blew to pieces on a hill climb, split the casing
Hi Tyler
Quite possibly the it was caused by the auto hubs may have slipped out and then when your dad put his boot into it
It reengaged-with a bang
So the locking hubs will not allow this again
I have just bought a Colorado and this is why I looked at your video so will be fitting them to it
Cheers Tyler 👍👍😍😍
have these had any dramas or broke yet? Ive heard mixed reviews on Aisin copys
Been all good so far!
Great vid mate
Thanks mate!
I've recently changed my Mitsubishi Challenger to manual hubs
Very worthwhile mod to a DMAX and MUX....
I would also suggest carrying a rackend as well because he'll end up bending 1 one day 😉
Yep a decent upgrade. Yeah he might have to carry a spare one of them hey
@@TylerThompson90 the 2 weak points on the DMAX and MUX are the CV's (original & Colorado are the strongest) and rackends (roadsafe are stronger then original)
I carry a spare complete rackend and have also fitted Aisin hubs for just incase I do snap a CV.
Though I also have front and rear lockers fitted (just the rear locker makes the Dmax a very much more capable 4x4) to help out not blowing a CV with shock loading them.
Yeah I'd say he will end up getting a locker or two eventually. They are on the long list of modifications haha
@@TylerThompson90 Just stumbled onto this and recommend viewing (if you have not already), before any locker purchase. ruclips.net/video/1nYZo--7Xh4/видео.html
It makes no sense to me!!!
Why should i change my "auto free wheel hub" to a manual free wheel hub???
The axel is not spinning on mine too, unless you are in a four wheel drive...
Whats the point?
You just need to cut a hole in the original caps to go over the free wheelers and dress the rims up again. Cheers Steve
Hey mate, yep I did see you could do that but Dad said he didn't care/couldnt be bothered haha. Thanks
I know less than most people but I'm not sure the term "freewheeling" is synonymous with manual hubs. Aren't they all freewheeling hubs but one lot are "Automatic" and one lot are manual but both are freewheeling hubs?
Not 100% sure to be honest mate
Another point, on manual locking hubs when a front axle breaks you can just disconnect the hub connected to the broken axle and have 3wd lol
1. That vehicle doesn't have auto hubs, it has drive flanges (axle always engaged).
2. Those fake chinesium hubs are usually rubbish, you want genuine Aisin ones. Carry the original flanges on the trails because you're going to need them if you run that junk.
3. For when those junk hubs grenade, from memory a jackaroo/rodeo Aisin hub might fit, check the number of splines. If that Rodeo you have isn't used for off road work, you could probably just swap the cheap and nasty hubs onto it.
4. You should use a bolt in the axle to pull it out and measure for the correct thickness shims, rather than just reinstalling the original ones.
5. Those trojan circlip pliers are dangerous, I've had two sheer on me sending the circlip flying...always a good idea wear eye protection when working with circlips. Knipex are better but expensive.
6. It's important to lock the hubs and engage 4wd occasionally to keep everything lubricated
Some people think cheaper is better until it all turns to shit .
Old mate shouldn't be touching anything remotely relating to anything mechanical
So.. A small correction.. The original hub that`s on the MUX is not a Auto Hub. As previous coment , it`s some drive flange cheap shit .. A auto hub will free up you axle and diff and will prevent rotation when 2wd driving. How ever, the manual hubs are more fail safe and more sturdy .. There`s you pro .. Con is that you have to get out of the car and flip it over ... ;)
Thanks for the feedback and information mate
So basically manual lockers are the best
Yep!
Gas mileage would be improved if your axle is always attached with autos. Manuals win every which way
Lucky your not an art teacher lll
Haha yeah my art skills aren't too great
How long did it take to change each hub ?
About half hour each side, but we were pretty slow
love it! always wondered what the benefit was thanks for the good video brother!
Thanks mate!
They shouldn't be called automatic hubs, cos they just lock on all the time.
Freewheeling is harder to say than manual, and everyone calls em manual idk why you insist on not just calling em manual lol.
Those hub bolts are made of Chinesium…. Worthless