This dude should be the face of the mod world as far as ls, that last part gave me the inspiration I needed, do your homework, but don’t get lost in the details, have a goal, build it, and run it. Tired of all the nay saying and micro detail oriented.
Great videos. I'm learning years worth of hot rodding lessons this winter by watching your channel. Please stop the silly argue with yourself parts. The info stands on it's own.
I have 6.0 with 706 heads, twin 5871 turbos, Sloppy Stage 2, Ls6 intake and that motor absolutely rips. I just got it all put together and have started tuning in so I haven't gotten to aggressive with it yet. but I will soon hopefully once the weather clears up. Ring gap is aprox .030 but that gives me a lot of blow-by so I added a GZ Vacuum pump (still finishing that setup). Something new to me is learning what boost is, as in boost doesn't actually happen until you reach atmospheric pressure first. so my first 10-12 lbs is technically vacuum still.
obviously more boost equals more power, but remember more boost/PRESSURE is more stressful and i believe will definitely shorten the lifespan of engine.
The only way i can get a smaller compression chamber is trickflow 58cc, my LR4&LM7 use 61cc but I dont need the trickflows as I can increase the valve sizes and port/runner volume without making the 61cc larger lok
There’s too many variables to have one best combination but it is going to make a difference in drivability if you have the wrong head or the right head
@@garethmcgregor1621 yes, ring gap. I've already blown up a big block last year by not taking the time to do that. Everytime he says end gap, I feel dad is yelling at me for messing up! Hahahaha
The lower compression "wrong" combination is a better setup for race car by far IMO. Limiting all that torque form from 3500 to 5500 is what helps keep the rods and Stock bottom ends alive. You want to rev it out past 7k and run big boost to go fast. Limiting the Big torque hump in the middle is beneficial. It allows more room for error in the tune, is easier on the bottom end, and allows for BIG power boost up top. That S480 combo will out run the other ultimately and is much less likely to fail once put in real world loads behind a heavy race car. Plot an T6 S480 VS a T4 S475 on a compressor map on Match Bot. The larger motor is in the higher efficiency island. Honestly the S480 is still small for big power goals and healthy drag strip ET's. Its why guys running the numbers have GT55 based units as singles... even on 4.8's.
@@richardholdener1727 For an actual 1000 WHP, yes... For 1000 Holdner dyno HP.. maybe not. Have any of your engines actually run down a 1/4 mile track? I'd be real curious to see what a 1000HP on your dyno traps at the track VS vehicle weight.
Good video Richard I've bought an ls doner car and a project car to put it in because of you. If my wife finds out she can talk to one of those guys at the start of the video 👍
Great stuff " my take away is that the 6.0 I installed in my project will run really good with the intake It came with, upgrade cam springs, Plus rocker Torrington upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea, and 706 heads. Because although I want to Turbo, 🤤 ☔ there's no telling how long it will be until I can cuz my other projects need love too, I've got a nice spot picked out for those 317 heads on the shelf if need be, show of hands how many people would be lost without Richard and all his testing 🖐 they should make a national holiday Richard holdener day, but not just for us, his wife would probably like to see him more often, dude probably vroom vrooms in his sleep instead of snoring 😄
Should run a 1,000 HP engine, with your usual setup. Then-- Take that same engine and run it on 91 octane pump gas, and an air to air intercooler with a fan in front of it. And a short exhaust with mufflers on it. See what the power difference is...
Some places do a fairly affordable CNC porting and head rebuild service. I know the value isn't up there with junkyard heads but what do you get performance wise from an upgrade like that? I like the idea of fresh heads, a cam, valve springs, rocker trunnions, head gaskets, gapped rings and maybe lifters all done in one shot if it is going to be apart any way. My math might be off but it seems like $800+ with untouched heads and around $1,600 with CNC porting, valve job and guides. I think most people will agree the cam is worth it. The ported heads won't be as big an increase but it's not zero. Of course a turbo would blur the results but you say the best turbo motors are the best NA motors so look at NA for now. Thanks.
I believe TSP quoted me around 850 to cnc port a set of 243's. Its a little over a grand to do cnc porting and a 2" (if I remember correctly) intake valve. I doubt that included shipping, milling, vacuum test, guides, seals, springs, etc.
@@GreatLakesLogger Katech has CNC porting for $499, competition valve job $374. I think I have seen it on sale previously. They also offer other options like milling and hand blending the ports but if your deck is flat and you know how to use a Dremel with a sanding drum, you probably don't need to spend on that. Install Bronze valve guides is an extra charge but if your guides are good, you can skip it. It does add up but it's not too bad.
Cool vid Richard.Turbo doesn't make anymore cfm just makes mixture denser cfm will still be same as na.dont deck they block try put piston in bore below deck height to stop quench why to slow down flame front it will put to much heat into parts especially ring lands try make a quench pad in chamber if possible.peace
That's correct Richard.one thing to remember with ls 3 heads and up the short turn is hypocritica point l that where all they air speed is not at they throat like other designs never laid back they short all ya lose power when it comes to modifying them heads peace .
For me, the question would be, " Which one will get better fuel mileage when just cruizing. Because on a street car, daily driver, it will spend most of it's time being law abiding. If I can make the same 1000hp with efficiency, why wouldn't I? The real question isn't what will make 1000hp. Unless you are just into turning money into smoke and losing races, the question should be and always comes down to.... who gets the best hook up. Getting a street legal car to hook up with DOTs is an artform. The guy that is best at that will always win because you blow your tires off with just 600hp at 60mph on any non dot tire. I mean the real goal is to win a race, right? There is a reason that the term, "spinning your wheels" is negative. Never could figure out why sending tires to hell has become so popular.
Efficiency is key... Yeah any combo can make 1000hp.. My 4.8 with all the same junk inside as my 6.0 and quess what engine wins 1/4 mile races... Not 1000hp 4.8 takes to damn long to get it there.. And that's the point. Efficiency wins...but on the street don't matter.
Richard, you said you did everything wrong... Wrong intake manifold, wrong head, wrong camshaft..... WRONG....!!!! I learned from a smarter man than I that every cam is a turbo cam.....
This is just what I’ve been needing, Im building an LQ4 and grabbed a set of 706 heads and a set of 317 heads. I’ve been having a hard time deciding which to run with twin s475’s
Bone stock factory LS / vortec out flow any and all factory sbc, sbf, LA mopar, chevy big block, ford big block, mopar hemi big block including elephants, amc heads & many aftermarket heads too including many 3v & 4v LS cylinder head > coyote > hemi
Looking to solve another debate. All over the east coast. Many people have the impression aviation fuel is like race gas. 100 octane low lead but its originated. A dyno run on the same tune change nothing but fuel from 93 to aviation I wonder what the a/f ratios would do. See if on a correct tune it actually make more power or not.
Octane rating is how much compression a fuel can resist before detonation. Fuel with higher octane rating than necessary to resist detonation doesn't make more power
Im keeping the 862/706 and have them valved and ported asbig as they can be without increasing chamber size from 61cc. Keeping it NA, add full roller SS rockers, NA cam,not going for 1000, 300-400 at wheels will be fine
For a particular turbo, is there a way to dial in peak power at a desired rpm? I know about decreasing the pulley diameter of super chargers does this, but how do you determine getting your 1000hp by say, 5250 rpm, or maybe 5750 rpm with a turbo?
This 1000hp turbo will make 1000hp, yes, but it will do so in a specific boost level. There are 1000hp turbos out there that wont do 1000hp if you run it at 5 psi, or some that wont do it at 60psi, as long as you are running about the same size engine your argument runs true, but way larger or way smaller engines may not at all make 1000hp on that 1000hp turbo
I was about to comment that the best cylinder head was the 243 heads for my truck cause that's what I already have then you immediately said the same thing. Richard, you're rubbing off on me.
I want to thank you for your time and efforts. I have learned a lot. I've been thinking about swapping out a 4.3 v 6 out of my 93 Chevy Cheyenne for a 283 which at this time has a set of fuelie double hump heads that I don't like. I think I'll take those off replace them with vortex heads and carb intake with a 220/245 duration cam 525 lift with 1.6 rockers on a 112 LSA. a 650 Holley brawler carb. I think while it's apart to add a little ring gap and a pair of gt45 turbos and call it good. but dagnabit all this Ls stuff you do makes me think about just spending the money on a 4.8 Ls instead. I don't want to build a race truck just a snappy daily driver that's fun and reliable. I'll let you know what I did when it's done. don't hold your breath it'll be next spring when I do it. till then I'll be getting all the parts together.
@@richardholdener1727 When pulling the pistons/rods out, do I still use a plastigauge when reinstalling them? And how do I know how far to gap the rings? All the rings on the piston or just the top ones?
That intro was epic. Great video just like every cam is a turbo cam. Richard my plans already have LQ4, going to gap rings 28-30 thou. 317 heads. PAC1218 springs sloppy 2 cam, thinking VS 7875 or GT45. I’m not sure what injectors to run. Can you recommend which turbo/injectors. 500-800 WHP. Thanks.
Definitely need to use a set of 706 heads just use that cast iron converstion thing labeled 6.0 from a gm truck it's usually found between the frame rails under the hood
@@richardholdener1727 I'd like to see something like that when you get the time I have a 72 dart swinger I'm probably going to go that route because the magnum engines are dirt cheap
Not to rip on magnum engines but very little aftermarket support means not much to be gained. Magnum = old school technology only to be choked by smog equipment.
Hey Mr. Holdener, I want to do a reliable junkyard LS with upgraded springs and trunnion bearings. What recommendations do you have for, motor(LQ9, L86, etc.), turbo sizes, and ECU????
What turbo did you use on the 5.3 test at around 7psi of boost? The s475? The low rpm boost is awesome! I understand that "everything" works, but there is nothing more frustrating than a laggy turd combo. It is heart breaking after spending that much money. Rather than saying it all works why don't you find what works best and is "cheap"
Richard have you ever done a test on throttle body size when turbocharged? I have always heard it doesn't effect power but I would be interested in seeing if there is a substantial pressure drop or restriction when going from say a 80mm throttle body to a 92 or 95. Would be interesting to set up pressure sensors pre intercooler, post intercooler, and in the intake manifold. And if there is any effect on power?
Richard have you ever done a test on camshafts that have .700 lift? I’m building my very first engine to race on the street and track. Could you point me in the right direction for a 5.3 with a s475?
@@richardholdener1727 thank you! I’m trying to figure out which parts to use the first time around. I might just end up copying an engine you did a video on that makes over 1,000hp. Thanks for sharing your experiences with these LS engines!
Doing a quick search I couldn’t find it but there is a guy who did a test a while back on one of the forums where all he changed was the compression of the engine (I believe it was on an inline 6 and the change in cr was 1.5 so from like 8:1 to 9.5:1) and it had zero effect on actual spool time. As the rest of the engine remained exactly the same, the airflow also remained the same and when the boost curves were laid on top of each other they were identical. However when the HP/TQ curves are laid on top of each other the power comes on much sooner. The final conclusion was that the perception of increased spool time is due to the engine making more power everywhere in the curve from the increase in compression.
LM7 build for boost. 706 heads.. 3 out of 8 pistons had piston slap. So rebuilding for boost. What compression ratio should i use for 10-15lbs boost. Going in a street car
I did 9:2 /1. 6.0 LS2 243 , Diamond P's? Lunati Crank /Valvetrain/ Comp turbo cam........ T76. Not run yet so well see in 2700 lbs RX7.Good gas mileage on stock heads, just turn the wick up for gojo!
@@richardholdener1727 on second thought. I am not able to get E85. My highest octane in my area is 94. 9.5:1 with 10-15lbs boost? Hypereutectic pistons ok to use?
This dude should be the face of the mod world as far as ls, that last part gave me the inspiration I needed, do your homework, but don’t get lost in the details, have a goal, build it, and run it. Tired of all the nay saying and micro detail oriented.
Great videos. I'm learning years worth of hot rodding lessons this winter by watching your channel.
Please stop the silly argue with yourself parts. The info stands on it's own.
I can't control them
@@richardholdener1727 Haha
I don't know which one of those guys I want to agree with, they both made good points...
they are pretty sharp
I have 6.0 with 706 heads, twin 5871 turbos, Sloppy Stage 2, Ls6 intake and that motor absolutely rips. I just got it all put together and have started tuning in so I haven't gotten to aggressive with it yet. but I will soon hopefully once the weather clears up. Ring gap is aprox .030 but that gives me a lot of blow-by so I added a GZ Vacuum pump (still finishing that setup). Something new to me is learning what boost is, as in boost doesn't actually happen until you reach atmospheric pressure first. so my first 10-12 lbs is technically vacuum still.
boost shown on your gauge is already above atmospheric
@@richardholdener1727 that is good to know cause I was getting real confused
obviously more boost equals more power, but remember more boost/PRESSURE is more stressful and i believe will definitely shorten the lifespan of engine.
2 mins in and already my favourite video! We love you daddy!!!
Best head is the one on your motor, unless you have a 70s smog motor.
The only way i can get a smaller compression chamber is trickflow 58cc, my LR4&LM7 use 61cc but I dont need the trickflows as I can increase the valve sizes and port/runner volume without making the 61cc larger lok
you must not own a SBF..😜
There’s too many variables to have one best combination but it is going to make a difference in drivability if you have the wrong head or the right head
LC8-823 Heads, rec port with stock inconel exhaust valves, and hardened seats.
You nailed all the "know it all" guys 🤣 I needed that laugh today.
How did he "nail" the know it alls?
heres what ive learned from you sir. valvsprings, turbo, fuel pump, injectors! have a good time with your buddies. always a great video.
Thanks 👍
And ring gap?
@@garethmcgregor1621 .028-.030 or
.07 per bore inch
@@garethmcgregor1621 yes, ring gap. I've already blown up a big block last year by not taking the time to do that. Everytime he says end gap, I feel dad is yelling at me for messing up! Hahahaha
@@Go4BrokeOffroad oops
The lower compression "wrong" combination is a better setup for race car by far IMO. Limiting all that torque form from 3500 to 5500 is what helps keep the rods and Stock bottom ends alive. You want to rev it out past 7k and run big boost to go fast. Limiting the Big torque hump in the middle is beneficial. It allows more room for error in the tune, is easier on the bottom end, and allows for BIG power boost up top. That S480 combo will out run the other ultimately and is much less likely to fail once put in real world loads behind a heavy race car. Plot an T6 S480 VS a T4 S475 on a compressor map on Match Bot. The larger motor is in the higher efficiency island. Honestly the S480 is still small for big power goals and healthy drag strip ET's. Its why guys running the numbers have GT55 based units as singles... even on 4.8's.
not for 1000 hp
@@richardholdener1727 For an actual 1000 WHP, yes... For 1000 Holdner dyno HP.. maybe not. Have any of your engines actually run down a 1/4 mile track? I'd be real curious to see what a 1000HP on your dyno traps at the track VS vehicle weight.
Really good info. Thanks!
Thank you Richard
Great video as always Richard! I really appreciate all the testing you do, especially on LS's and the other guys.
Good video Richard
I've bought an ls doner car and a project car to put it in because of you.
If my wife finds out she can talk to one of those guys at the start of the video 👍
both of them are afraid of wives!
WRONG CAM?
Just kidding. Love the videos, love the skits in the beginning, and thank you for the work you've put out for the automotive community 💪🏿
Great stuff " my take away is that the 6.0 I installed in my project will run really good with the intake It came with, upgrade cam springs, Plus rocker Torrington upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea, and 706 heads. Because although I want to Turbo, 🤤 ☔ there's no telling how long it will be until I can cuz my other projects need love too, I've got a nice spot picked out for those 317 heads on the shelf if need be, show of hands how many people would be lost without Richard and all his testing 🖐 they should make a national holiday Richard holdener day, but not just for us, his wife would probably like to see him more often, dude probably vroom vrooms in his sleep instead of snoring 😄
Richard telling it how it is, thanks for making the videos and the inspiration 👍
That "million horsepower on 700lbs of boost" blew me away. Even though you've already spoke the thoughts; it will still be in the comments kml
IKR
WOO HOO back to some LS goodness ! :)
THANKS RICHARD FOR BEING DOWN TO EARTH
Great video as always, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Should run a 1,000 HP engine, with your usual setup.
Then--
Take that same engine and run it on 91 octane pump gas, and an air to air intercooler with a fan in front of it.
And a short exhaust with mufflers on it.
See what the power difference is...
pump gas tune will kill power
@@richardholdener1727 Want to see how much.
The battle carries on..
Love ya buddy ! I just love your vids ...
my prediction is rec port wins everywhere
LIKE TO SEE THAT ON A 5.3L
@@richardholdener1727 haha i havent watched yet. Vid description doesnt say its a 5.3 🤣
Only on big bore, 4.00 " plus
I wonder if your neighbors call them people on you after hearing this lol
Another spot on video!
Some places do a fairly affordable CNC porting and head rebuild service.
I know the value isn't up there with junkyard heads but what do you get performance wise from an upgrade like that?
I like the idea of fresh heads, a cam, valve springs, rocker trunnions, head gaskets, gapped rings and maybe lifters all done in one shot if it is going to be apart any way.
My math might be off but it seems like $800+ with untouched heads and around $1,600 with CNC porting, valve job and guides.
I think most people will agree the cam is worth it. The ported heads won't be as big an increase but it's not zero.
Of course a turbo would blur the results but you say the best turbo motors are the best NA motors so look at NA for now.
Thanks.
TAKE A LOOK AT THE LS CATH HEAD VIDEO
@@richardholdener1727 I'll look for it, thanks.
I believe TSP quoted me around 850 to cnc port a set of 243's. Its a little over a grand to do cnc porting and a 2" (if I remember correctly) intake valve. I doubt that included shipping, milling, vacuum test, guides, seals, springs, etc.
@@GreatLakesLogger Katech has CNC porting for $499, competition valve job $374. I think I have seen it on sale previously.
They also offer other options like milling and hand blending the ports but if your deck is flat and you know how to use a Dremel with a sanding drum, you probably don't need to spend on that.
Install Bronze valve guides is an extra charge but if your guides are good, you can skip it.
It does add up but it's not too bad.
what is the best combination
the one you have
Cool vid Richard.Turbo doesn't make anymore cfm just makes mixture denser cfm will still be same as na.dont deck they block try put piston in bore below deck height to stop quench why to slow down flame front it will put to much heat into parts especially ring lands try make a quench pad in chamber if possible.peace
STOCK HEADS HAVE PROPER QUENCH
That's correct Richard.one thing to remember with ls 3 heads and up the short turn is hypocritica point l that where all they air speed is not at they throat like other designs never laid back they short all ya lose power when it comes to modifying them heads peace .
For me, the question would be, " Which one will get better fuel mileage when just cruizing. Because on a street car, daily driver, it will spend most of it's time being law abiding. If I can make the same 1000hp with efficiency, why wouldn't I? The real question isn't what will make 1000hp. Unless you are just into turning money into smoke and losing races, the question should be and always comes down to.... who gets the best hook up. Getting a street legal car to hook up with DOTs is an artform. The guy that is best at that will always win because you blow your tires off with just 600hp at 60mph on any non dot tire. I mean the real goal is to win a race, right? There is a reason that the term, "spinning your wheels" is negative. Never could figure out why sending tires to hell has become so popular.
Mid engine and rear engine car guys are smirking right now. (smirk, smirk)
But you are correct on all points, I think.
I would say the “wrong” 4.8 combination is probably a good pump gas “street” combo. No crazy mid range torque number help keep bottom ends happy.
Efficiency is key... Yeah any combo can make 1000hp.. My 4.8 with all the same junk inside as my 6.0 and quess what engine wins 1/4 mile races... Not 1000hp 4.8 takes to damn long to get it there.. And that's the point. Efficiency wins...but on the street don't matter.
Are 241’s that bad that they aren’t even worth comparing?
I did compare them in the big stock head test
@@richardholdener1727 I did see that in the short video. 706’s it is then..
Thank you for everything you do for the community. Truly.
Richard, you said you did everything wrong... Wrong intake manifold, wrong head, wrong camshaft..... WRONG....!!!! I learned from a smarter man than I that every cam is a turbo cam.....
They have medications for those guys...
"I have a turbo that can fix it"
T-shirt
take 2 turbos and add bottle of nos.
This is just what I’ve been needing, Im building an LQ4 and grabbed a set of 706 heads and a set of 317 heads. I’ve been having a hard time deciding which to run with twin s475’s
Bone stock factory LS / vortec out flow any and all factory sbc, sbf, LA mopar, chevy big block, ford big block, mopar hemi big block including elephants, amc heads &
many aftermarket heads too including many 3v & 4v
LS cylinder head > coyote > hemi
sorry-not accurate on all counts
The only thing that would hold you back from your dreams is too small of a turbo and too small of a fuel system!
Looking to solve another debate. All over the east coast. Many people have the impression aviation fuel is like race gas. 100 octane low lead but its originated. A dyno run on the same tune change nothing but fuel from 93 to aviation I wonder what the a/f ratios would do. See if on a correct tune it actually make more power or not.
Octane rating is how much compression a fuel can resist before detonation. Fuel with higher octane rating than necessary to resist detonation doesn't make more power
Do you mean oxygenated?
I have an 08 truck 5.3l with 862 heads sitting around. I also have a gt45 turbo sitting around. What's your recommendation on a solid engine build?
ADD CAM AND SPRINGS AND THAT TURBO WITH AN INTERCOOLER, 80 POUND INJ, GOOD FUEL PUMP AND E85
@@richardholdener1727 Engine would go in a 79 mustang drag car any suggestions on a cam? Also thanks for the info.
🤣😅😂...ok so your saying I should build my motor from the turbo down...
Hey Richard where is the 700 lbs of boost episode? I can’t find it! Lol
He only has a 3 bar map sensor so he hasn't run more than like 28
Im keeping the 862/706 and have them valved and ported asbig as they can be without increasing chamber size from 61cc.
Keeping it NA, add full roller SS rockers, NA cam,not going for 1000, 300-400 at wheels will be fine
For a particular turbo, is there a way to dial in peak power at a desired rpm? I know about decreasing the pulley diameter of super chargers does this, but how do you determine getting your 1000hp by say, 5250 rpm, or maybe 5750 rpm with a turbo?
add boost with a manual or elec controller
This 1000hp turbo will make 1000hp, yes, but it will do so in a specific boost level. There are 1000hp turbos out there that wont do 1000hp if you run it at 5 psi, or some that wont do it at 60psi, as long as you are running about the same size engine your argument runs true, but way larger or way smaller engines may not at all make 1000hp on that 1000hp turbo
Can you put two different heads on one engine
yes
I was about to comment that the best cylinder head was the 243 heads for my truck cause that's what I already have then you immediately said the same thing. Richard, you're rubbing off on me.
I want high compression low boost 13.25:1 10psi and half way between a conservative and hot tune with twin Precision 3776's.
best advice ever! Put a turbo and enjoy the damn thing :). I always turn it into a money pit...
I want to thank you for your time and efforts. I have learned a lot. I've been thinking about swapping out a 4.3 v 6 out of my 93 Chevy Cheyenne for a 283 which at this time has a set of fuelie double hump heads that I don't like. I think I'll take those off replace them with vortex heads and carb intake with a 220/245 duration cam 525 lift with 1.6 rockers on a 112 LSA. a 650 Holley brawler carb. I think while it's apart to add a little ring gap and a pair of gt45 turbos and call it good. but dagnabit all this Ls stuff you do makes me think about just spending the money on a 4.8 Ls instead. I don't want to build a race truck just a snappy daily driver that's fun and reliable. I'll let you know what I did when it's done. don't hold your breath it'll be next spring when I do it. till then I'll be getting all the parts together.
junkyard 5.3L with a cam, springs and boost
At what power or boost level do I need to gap the rings?
all boost levels
@@richardholdener1727 Please grab a Dodge Neon 2.0 out of salvage and add boost!
@@richardholdener1727 When pulling the pistons/rods out, do I still use a plastigauge when reinstalling them? And how do I know how far to gap the rings? All the rings on the piston or just the top ones?
That intro was epic. Great video just like every cam is a turbo cam. Richard my plans already have LQ4, going to gap rings 28-30 thou. 317 heads. PAC1218 springs sloppy 2 cam, thinking VS 7875 or GT45. I’m not sure what injectors to run. Can you recommend which turbo/injectors. 500-800 WHP. Thanks.
80 pound dekas
I wouldn't allow those guys back in my house, if I was you. lol
More excellent intel🏁🏁🏁
You know what I like
Do you have anything for a mopar magnum small block
Definitely need to use a set of 706 heads just use that cast iron converstion thing labeled 6.0 from a gm truck it's usually found between the frame rails under the hood
NOT YET
@@richardholdener1727 I'd like to see something like that when you get the time I have a 72 dart swinger I'm probably going to go that route because the magnum engines are dirt cheap
Not to rip on magnum engines but very little aftermarket support means not much to be gained.
Magnum = old school technology only to be choked by smog equipment.
Hey Mr. Holdener, I want to do a reliable junkyard LS with upgraded springs and trunnion bearings. What recommendations do you have for, motor(LQ9, L86, etc.), turbo sizes, and ECU????
Forgot to add it’s for a rear engine sand car.
the bigger the better-so 6.0l or 6.2l works best-but a 5.3l with boost also makes plenty of power
What turbo did you use on the 5.3 test at around 7psi of boost? The s475? The low rpm boost is awesome! I understand that "everything" works, but there is nothing more frustrating than a laggy turd combo. It is heart breaking after spending that much money. Rather than saying it all works why don't you find what works best and is "cheap"
Hi Richard. Which heads will make more power on an LS? RHS or PRC 2.5 ?
watch the ls head test video
I have two 243 and two gt4094 and a LS 6.0 3 gen... pump gas, don't know what cam should I buy???
Sloppy Stage 2
BTR Stage 2
Summit Stage 2
ANY CAM WORKS
@@hoost3056 was going to give you a thumbs up but you already had 2 thumbs up lol
Take this turbo, and call me after the burnout. 😎
Richard have you ever done a test on throttle body size when turbocharged? I have always heard it doesn't effect power but I would be interested in seeing if there is a substantial pressure drop or restriction when going from say a 80mm throttle body to a 92 or 95. Would be interesting to set up pressure sensors pre intercooler, post intercooler, and in the intake manifold. And if there is any effect on power?
no difference in power from 80-92 mm on turbo application
317 ftw
He's up on his soapbox
Lol love the arguing!
Richard have you ever done a test on camshafts that have .700 lift? I’m building my very first engine to race on the street and track. Could you point me in the right direction for a 5.3 with a s475?
YOU DON'T NEED THAT ON A TURBO 5.3L WITH AN S475-A MILD CAM CAN MAX OUT THAT TURBO
@@richardholdener1727 thank you! I’m trying to figure out which parts to use the first time around. I might just end up copying an engine you did a video on that makes over 1,000hp. Thanks for sharing your experiences with these LS engines!
He’s right you know...☝️☝️☝️
Right on
My man has lost his mind 🙂
706 more compression easier to spool the turbos .
Doing a quick search I couldn’t find it but there is a guy who did a test a while back on one of the forums where all he changed was the compression of the engine (I believe it was on an inline 6 and the change in cr was 1.5 so from like 8:1 to 9.5:1) and it had zero effect on actual spool time. As the rest of the engine remained exactly the same, the airflow also remained the same and when the boost curves were laid on top of each other they were identical. However when the HP/TQ curves are laid on top of each other the power comes on much sooner. The final conclusion was that the perception of increased spool time is due to the engine making more power everywhere in the curve from the increase in compression.
Conclusion is...my 2013 gmc 5.3 w/799 heads is not as special as I thought it was.
THEY ARE ALL SPECIAL
Richard had me at "thats a little sissy head"
One 862 and one 317. Run that. 😆
THAT WORKS TOO
I say run the 8452 ls heads!!!
706 for the Compression to Make it spool. Street car lol
We could've made 400 more horses if we turned the boost up, but we didn't so take my word for it!
You must be new here
SEE BIG BANG-WE KNOW WHAT IT DOES
It's true or 600 horsepower
LM7 build for boost. 706 heads.. 3 out of 8 pistons had piston slap. So rebuilding for boost. What compression ratio should i use for 10-15lbs boost. Going in a street car
12 to 1 E85 fuel
8-10 WORKS FINE
I did 9:2 /1. 6.0 LS2 243 , Diamond P's? Lunati Crank /Valvetrain/ Comp turbo cam........ T76. Not run yet so well see in 2700 lbs RX7.Good gas mileage on stock heads, just turn the wick up for gojo!
@@richardholdener1727 wow thank you very much Richard for the response 👍:)
@@richardholdener1727 on second thought. I am not able to get E85. My highest octane in my area is 94. 9.5:1 with 10-15lbs boost? Hypereutectic pistons ok to use?
The best head is? Yours! Use yer brain.
👍
Ok smarty pants. 😂
Let's see you make 1000hp with that 78/75 ON A MAGNUM 5.9 MOPAR!!
I dare ya. 😝
Bump. 🤛
HOW MANY MONSTER DRINKS DID YOU DRINK TO MAKE THIS VIDEO. ALMOST MADE ME SICK LISTENING. NOT EVEN 1 SECOND PAUSE BETWEEN SENTENCES.
TIME IS VALUABLE
Oxygenated
Comedy hour3😆
Sorry getting tired of the Generic Motor Crap content
He's got hundreds of videos, and covers MANY different manufacturers. Look through the video list on the channel
PICK YOUR FAVORITE MANUFACTURER FROM THE MANY PLAY LISTS
it doesn't matter they all do the same thing with Boost and fuel
@@richardholdener1727 4.9L/300 Ford is my favorite manufacturer. 😉😆
Engines are engines are engines. If it makes power, I like it.