Trial build it and then break out the jb weld!! Lol. Good practice but it could go more than 100 miles. Its a one shot build disposable. Put the case halves together with epoxy. Make sure the rod bearing clearance is not way off use a bigger oil pump for a crutch. Fun having all those spares to play with.
There's a time and place for "whatever it takes", and I think your prediction is accurate! Yeah, lots of swap meet souvenirs finding a 2nd life here. Good times. Thanks for the support!
End play should be OK with the flywheel installed with proper shims, but I'm concerned about oil pressure on this one. That #2 main is in bad shape. No worries, we'll do what we are able and have a good time while doing it!
I trust you, as long as everything is under spects, and calibrated and torque, ill give this engine million miles, vw engines are very strong, and you treat them very good 😊
Thanks @beardedg500, we'll do our best even though this one does have a lot of challenges. However it turns out, we'll have a good time and learn some lessons!
Hi, Brent, well I´m glad that I don't have that kind of solution to make but you do very well soon it will drive for one million miles., Greeting. Hubertus.
Good one Vintage 76, I like the way you stated it; fill after drill. I intend to dribble some solvent down the galley to see if I created a leak, then it may be time for some JB!
Howdi, I'm back again. got the old timer type 1 1200 40hp down and looking it over. good news is no daylight between case halves. I took a ballpark measurement with my cheap HF tools and the first main with the case snugged down with the 6 main bolts I got 2.591. if I'm reading this right is around 40 over. I need to get in there and measure the rest and write it all down in several areas plus the thrust. But I can't find what the stock measurement should be for the pulley end of this engine case? It's the small bearing that comes in the bearing kit and goes on the gear end of the crank. If you have that number or can tell me where it's listed at let me know. Thanks Tim
The #4 main should be no larger than 1.9700" when standard. Best to compare the actual bore ID to your bearing OD to make sure there is proper bearing crush. Depending on who you ask, crush should be between 0.001" and 0.003". I'm still experimenting in that range.
The shop I worked at when I was a teenager built a lot of 'budget' builds just like this, except the machined bearing. Half of the 'rebuilt' Volkswagens running around Alamance county were built like this.
Oh wow, sounds like an awesome summer job but I hope those customers knew what they were getting! This build may prove that a "running engine" is not a good measure of reliability. Thanks for watching!
I'm pretty sure if you strung together an engine with fishing line and duct tape you'd be able to make it go 100 miles. So I'm guessing that you'll get at least 1000 on this engine. I am ever an optimist. It's looking great.
Thanks Annie, never know until we try! We may even get an opportunity to involve some fishing line and duct tape along the way. Thanks as always for your support!
Oh that would be fun to learn/attempt. There's some cool old engines out there that used poured babbitt bearings. I talked with a guy that still makes them for industrial generators- fascinating conversation. Thanks for watching!
What you mean Slade, that's my secret sauce?!? Thess Hi-Po dowel pin drillings are good for at least 5HP, probably more. But seriously folks, great to hear from ya man!
Nice build right there! I love the fact of using a "trash" case and learn how to do all the machining with it. I wish I have on my workshop all the tools and machines you have so I can do these works too. Are you going to install case savers on it? I would like to see how you do it, specially on the deep 3rs cylinder stud. Also, if you have the right drill bits and patience, you can modify an early case to flow almost as good as a late dual relief one. There are a lot of little details that help make the type 1 case even better than it is. Keep going with the build! 💪🏼
Thanks Albertosalat! I'll need to install at least a couple due to pulled studs. I'm thinking about using some 10mm ones I have laying around so I can use up the less desirable stuff. Would want 8mm on a higher value engine. I'll need to do some reading on the deep stud, I'm guessing it's not much more than drilling the depth carefully after verifying the material is there. I'll do some oiling mods too, aka the Hoover mods. Should be a lot of fun!
But why because I have an A model coupe in disrepair I’m building, hot rod style but not chopping or changing the body , making it a dark horse , look old but go new😊
@@harryloibl5183 fun stuff man, I'd love to have a Model A pickup someday, stock is great but wouldn't mind one with a 59ab flathead and '32 wheels. Good luck with the project, that really sounds like fun!
@@HapticGarage yeah thanks buddy, you got the start of your A model, the grill. and you’re in the right country to find the rest of the vehicle. Seek and ye shall find. 😊
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Man with the price of cases/parts these days, it just warms my heart seeing someone able to do their own machine work and get ‘er done. Very nice.
Brent, I think you are onto something.
So far so good, thanks John!
you are doing a great job,from new Zealand.cheers richard
Thanks Richard, we'll keep at it!
Trial build it and then break out the jb weld!! Lol. Good practice but it could go more than 100 miles. Its a one shot build disposable. Put the case halves together with epoxy. Make sure the rod bearing clearance is not way off use a bigger oil pump for a crutch. Fun having all those spares to play with.
There's a time and place for "whatever it takes", and I think your prediction is accurate! Yeah, lots of swap meet souvenirs finding a 2nd life here. Good times. Thanks for the support!
Hey if you get the end play in spec then with good pistons and sleeve's you can have a good hundred thousand miles motor
End play should be OK with the flywheel installed with proper shims, but I'm concerned about oil pressure on this one. That #2 main is in bad shape. No worries, we'll do what we are able and have a good time while doing it!
I trust you, as long as everything is under spects, and calibrated and torque, ill give this engine million miles, vw engines are very strong, and you treat them very good 😊
Thanks @beardedg500, we'll do our best even though this one does have a lot of challenges. However it turns out, we'll have a good time and learn some lessons!
A lot of progress is being made! Great job, I think it'll work out just fine!
Thanks Levi! Even if it dies on the engine stand it'll be a worthwhile learning process, but I like the way you're thinking!
Hi, Brent, well I´m glad that I don't have that kind of solution to make but you do very well soon it will drive for one million miles., Greeting. Hubertus.
Thanks Hubertus, it would be stressful if it wasn't for fun. Always great to hear from you!
Frankenstein! It’s alive! I think you’re going to be surprised how long this motor will live. She’s Abby Normal.
Ha! Good one, Gene Wilder would be proud. Or disappointed. Not sure which but it would be funny.
That’s some exciting stuff. Great work as always!
Thanks Gary, this build is good silly fun.
This series is so much fun! Love it!
Thanks FeveredMind!
Fill the dimple area, with JB weld before drilling the case for the hoover mod. Samba tip.
Good one Vintage 76, I like the way you stated it; fill after drill. I intend to dribble some solvent down the galley to see if I created a leak, then it may be time for some JB!
@HapticGarage
Do it your way. I have already fill the dimple in my case. But I haven't drill it yet.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle Sorry '76, I misread your comment. Either way it's a good tip that could save a case!
@HapticGarage
Yes,it's a good case. Hopefully, with the hoover mods, and the main seal mod, it will be the last vw type 1 case I rebuild.
I have removed a bearing like you modified. It did work.
Howdi, I'm back again. got the old timer type 1 1200 40hp down and looking it over. good news is no daylight between case halves. I took a ballpark measurement with my cheap HF tools and the first main with the case snugged down with the 6 main bolts I got 2.591. if I'm reading this right is around 40 over. I need to get in there and measure the rest and write it all down in several areas plus the thrust. But I can't find what the stock measurement should be for the pulley end of this engine case? It's the small bearing that comes in the bearing kit and goes on the gear end of the crank. If you have that number or can tell me where it's listed at let me know. Thanks Tim
Fun-Sized Bearings
The #4 main should be no larger than 1.9700" when standard. Best to compare the actual bore ID to your bearing OD to make sure there is proper bearing crush. Depending on who you ask, crush should be between 0.001" and 0.003". I'm still experimenting in that range.
Great info. I updated my info on your short today. I finally figured out how to read a micrometer🤣
Mine measured out 1.968
The case bore
The shop I worked at when I was a teenager built a lot of 'budget' builds just like this, except the machined bearing. Half of the 'rebuilt' Volkswagens running around Alamance county were built like this.
Oh wow, sounds like an awesome summer job but I hope those customers knew what they were getting! This build may prove that a "running engine" is not a good measure of reliability. Thanks for watching!
😮For whatever reason bastard projects like this turn out to be the best runners , fastest mochines ever ! 😆
Not holding my breath for that but I know how to take yes for an answer! Thanks Jim
I'm pretty sure if you strung together an engine with fishing line and duct tape you'd be able to make it go 100 miles. So I'm guessing that you'll get at least 1000 on this engine. I am ever an optimist. It's looking great.
Thanks Annie, never know until we try! We may even get an opportunity to involve some fishing line and duct tape along the way. Thanks as always for your support!
@@CarolArgo-r4e Fun game!
I reckon it’ll surprise you on how long it’ll run for, fucken send ittt 😂😂😂
I thought you were going to be pouring babbitt bearings
Oh that would be fun to learn/attempt. There's some cool old engines out there that used poured babbitt bearings. I talked with a guy that still makes them for industrial generators- fascinating conversation. Thanks for watching!
Really a need for dial pins? Just kidding….😁 Great video!! I need to catch up on this series!
What you mean Slade, that's my secret sauce?!? Thess Hi-Po dowel pin drillings are good for at least 5HP, probably more. But seriously folks, great to hear from ya man!
Nice build right there! I love the fact of using a "trash" case and learn how to do all the machining with it. I wish I have on my workshop all the tools and machines you have so I can do these works too.
Are you going to install case savers on it? I would like to see how you do it, specially on the deep 3rs cylinder stud.
Also, if you have the right drill bits and patience, you can modify an early case to flow almost as good as a late dual relief one.
There are a lot of little details that help make the type 1 case even better than it is.
Keep going with the build! 💪🏼
Thanks Albertosalat! I'll need to install at least a couple due to pulled studs. I'm thinking about using some 10mm ones I have laying around so I can use up the less desirable stuff. Would want 8mm on a higher value engine. I'll need to do some reading on the deep stud, I'm guessing it's not much more than drilling the depth carefully after verifying the material is there. I'll do some oiling mods too, aka the Hoover mods. Should be a lot of fun!
I like the A model grill you have on the wall😊
Me too, good catch Harry!
But why because I have an A model coupe in disrepair I’m building, hot rod style but not chopping or changing the body , making it a dark horse , look old but go new😊
@@harryloibl5183 fun stuff man, I'd love to have a Model A pickup someday, stock is great but wouldn't mind one with a 59ab flathead and '32 wheels. Good luck with the project, that really sounds like fun!
@@HapticGarage yeah thanks buddy, you got the start of your A model, the grill. and you’re in the right country to find the rest of the vehicle. Seek and ye shall find. 😊
It will probably end up lasting forever, lol.
I don't expect longevity, but it would be really entertaining if this little rattlebucket puttered on longer than any reasonable person should expect!
Get ya whole saw out and put some 101's innit.
That's right, we'll put some monster slugs in there. Fire in the hole!
Pretty clever thinking. I'd say that 30whatever bucks to solve a bearing problem isn't really throwing money.
Thanks Dirk, yeah that's cheap entertainment. Would cost more to go see a movie. Thanks for watching!
Ill go out on a limb. That motor will last at least 10000. Ive pulled running stuff apart that was a lot worse.
Wooo that would be cool, I appreciate your optimism!
Will probably make a good dune buggy engine
That would be a fun use for this one. Someday I would like to end up with a sturdy woods buggy, might as well start with the engine!
👍🏻🍻
Go Speed Racer ! (However you say that in German)😊
Gehen Sie Speed Racer!