This is the longest video i have ever done but i hope its useful to beginners who are getting into or considering the RC Hobby for the first time! I want this to be a video which answers most of the common questions especially around Lipo Batteries as they are one of the most misunderstood things in the hobby with so much conflicting information out there i hope i covered everything in as much details as possible and as easy as possible. This video is a combination of new/old footage over the last 4.5 years i have been doing youtube so you may notice quality/audio changes throughout. As nice as it would be to cover everything again in glorious 4k this would take me weeks to do and essentially the information is still the same nothing has changed! Experienced hobbyists feel free to leave your comments below if you feel there is anything a beginner should really know and i may have missed! Much appreciated! Lots of awesome new reviews coming in the next couple of weeks so stay tuned!
An option to keep in mind is Team Magic, I have ended up becoming an admirer of the brand. They have cars with very good features at a good price. For example, I have the Team Magic E5, which is a 1/10 brushless monster and the quality-price ratio is very good, it is very hard and fun. One of my best purchases.
Same here. Even got the 4S version for less than I'd have paid for the 3S version at other shops. It's crazy fast, built like a tank, but mine needed a motor fan dearly, otherwise it is cooking within minutes. But I wouldn't consider it a typical beginners' car (even though it was the first for me, except for a 1:10 sand buggy for my son).
I’m budget allows I have to agree skip straight to brushless and just turn the throttle rate down until used to the power. Brushed in 2024 is debatable lol
I'd imagine brushed to be a hassle for a newcomer. Aside from lack of oomph, they don't last very long. I think RMA-ing a warranty replacement, waiting for the shipment and reinstallation every 4 months (depending on how often you drive) would get old quickly. I'm so glad I read reviews and skipped brushed and saved up more for a 3s Arrma. Then I got tired of funneling money into the platform and now own a TC Kagama. But the 3s Granite taught me how to drive and how to wrench. Great starter truck. Knowing then what I know now, I'd have gone with the Senton 3s for maximum durability. 💪🏽
Maintenance: if your vehicle clicks while moving forward, it's likely the rear diff (or center diff if you have one). If it clicks while braking or in reverse: it's likely the front diff.
Good watch, covers the popular options. I've got a fair amount of MJX and Rlaarlo cars but the highlight of the bunch is the 10208. Its been bullet proof so far on 4s and i push it hard. My only small criticism is that they should have called it a truggy as it sits lower to the ground, just like you mentioned. Not a major problem for me though, i think they nailed it for the money
I’m looking forward to trying this v2 kit for the mjx 10208 and it’s only £25 It’ll include. Nylon chassis x1 Gearbox cover x1 Front shock mount x1 Rear shock mount x1 Front swing arm with C-hub assembly x1 Rear swing arm with C-hub assembly x1 Tie rod x6 Rear bumper x1 Rear arm code x1 Motor mount x1 Front and rear driveshafts x4 Front skid plate x1 Motor steel gear x1 Center differential large gear x1 Bearing x1 related screws x1 I can’t really say that’s a bad price. Already amazed with the car as my first electric rc. hoping this kit will give it that little extra ground clearance and width.
Always go with good batteries, my xrt batteries just caught bad fire. I was using stock traxxas 6700 mah batteries with max 5 g2 and it was a bad decision. Also Thank you for this comprehensive guide!
Also would you say in terms of storage .. it’s important to know the watt hours of the batteries.. I have mostly spectrum g2s .. I have storage sleeves and boxes from a company called cellbock a few 800 watt hours sleeves and a 1000 watt hours box .. very expensive.. but in terms of lipo storage it’s one of the most important things.. also like you said if you charge properly.. know that every cell should be 3.7-3.8 volts for storage your lipos will like you! Haha
The cheapest easiest way to learn is 1/10 Touring Kit Electric (Tamiya TT-02, Spec-R S2, Yokomo RS 2.0). The second cheapest easiest way to get in (the fun way) is offroad 1/10 2wd RTR Electric (Stampede, Rustler, Gorgon, Vorteks). Best to go with both before doing nitro or even brushless. There are 1/18 and 1/16 options, but those are very limited (Mini B, Grom, M18).
Hahaha one of the most confusing things out there and so many think higher c is faster/better etc wrong. It’s also a way for batteries companies to make you think you are getting higher performance. It’s shocking how many people don’t know the difference with c ratings even the so called enthusiasts!!! Higher c is favoured if you are pulling some serious power like speed run records etc. for day to day most cases 20-30 is more than enough!
Really informative video. I got my 1st what I would call "hoby grade" rc car in 2020 during lock down. But what stops me from buying new rc cars is the fact that nearly all the controllers are geared towards right handed operators. I'm one of those people who are probably wired weirdly. I'm right handed, but use the controllers left handed, i.e. the steering wheel on the left.
I'd recommend a tamiya tto2 learn how to build it once you build it you know how to take it apart aswell as learn how to spray paint that's where I started and I've stuck with the tt02 another thing very easy to upgrade
sooo much good information in here. I've ben at this a while and I learned something too. Love how you broke it out too, very helpful. Rlaarlo shipping has definitely improved.. it took 3 days from when my ROG1 arrive from fulfillment. though it did take them about a week to actual send it out. but then my next parts order I put in yesterday already shipped.. so if they can keep the 3 day turn around for me I'm happy with that :)
Me and the gang run Tamiya TT02B 17t brushed and we do that to match performance, cheap spares etc and we have great fun racing about. We have brushless 3S trucks buggies etc but always end up pissing about with stupid Lunchboxes and 1/10 buggies! I suppose with RC you need to try before you know what you want, location of use is massive, flat fields WOT are boring af imo We have the persuaders, cars we use to get people into it with us 😁 If you have kids my advice is buy a lunchbox, build it with them, have some fun together, then they can keep it and you have a better idea of what you want next, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s another lunchbox to have more fun with the kid 🤔 😂 As long as you having fun though you are doing it right ✌️ Great video full of quality advice btw 👍 My 2p is don’t go cheap on a charger! Buy the best you can as soon as you can 🫡
Great video! My 5,5 years old son is getting more and more interested in rc cars, so I decided Santa will bring him his first real rc this Christmas. I plan to have an MJX 14210 or 16208. I was looking for a car in the "cheap" category because what if he does not like it or my daughter wants one too. $$$ Since it will be a Xmas gift, can these cars be used in winter conditions? Obviously we won't bash in the snow, but if the weather is dry how much does cold hurts the machines? How much does it reduce battery life? Instead of the stock battery, we would use something with bigger capacity, so the fun does not only las for 6-8 minutes. Do the parts brake more easily becasue they are more to the cold? There is a small BMX track near us that almost no one ever uses, we could have fun there.
Yes they can but just make sure they are cleaned, lubricated and washed down/air compressed etc to remove water which gets into everything! The cold wont affect them too much the plastics can become more brittle (Sometimes) battery in my opinion doesn't take that much of a hit and you should be fine. Enjoy
I'm shocked the Redcat wasn't Included. As for number 1, idk the amount of people who complained about the steering and handling is a bit concerning. I also remember it being way cheaper than it is now. Ultimately it's a nice spread. Poor ROG1 😂 little fella def needed a spot
Redcat is unavailable for us in the UK and im sure they are limited in other places around the world. Strange i wish they were available here! The ROG1 is a brilliant little truck the only issue is local parts support. For us the hyper go is available locally and with excellent parts support at seriousrc.co.uk. Beginners are almost certain going to break something so all these factors i had to consider.. But that said if people are willing to wait 2 weeks for parts the ROG1 is brilliant!
@@beyondRC I forget often that you're in the UK sorry man. But I guess I'm sorta in the same boat, everything I order has to pass through either the US (usually) and sometimes uk then forwarded to me. So every part I want takes about 2 weeks 😅 and local part support is non existent
Greets! 👋🏻 Thanks for this really helpful video and your content overall :) One question: I have nearly all things I need for the hobby (tools, greece, dumper oil, locktide) But today my new arrma gorgon has arrived (such a great looking and driving car😍) and the instructions manual says that after 10 - 15 runs you should remove the motor and re oil the motor shaft bushes with some bush / lightweight oil. I'm a bit confused 🤔 What is light wight oil and where can I get it? Nothing found on Amazon etc...
Mistakes newbies make! Learn to drive! You don't need full power all the time,it's controlable.Also when it is approching,turning left makes it go right. Simple but not for some people. Der, I'm not stupid they say!
Just trying to get my family into rc do timing of this I'd great. I just ordered two wltoys 124017's one for me and wife and ordered a 124019 for my daughter. Would have went all 124017's but figured for her 1st "hobby grade" rc the 124019 would be fast enough also because it's a bday present I wanted to make sure she didn't get an rc with cogging issues and have to go through return process. That being said I'm really hoping I didn't make a mistake ordering the 124017's because of the version 1 issues hoping I got v2 versions as listed but I don't trust the seller in the slightest they already lied to me trying to tell me there was no version 1 or 2. Is there anything I can visibly tell the difference between version 1 and version 2? Have heard v2 has blue motor mount and blue steering wheel but I'm not sure if that's accurate
That’s accurate the v2 usually come with a blue wheel. There is definitely two versions and it was years ago now that all this took place. Id like to think hardly any v1s are still in existence
@beyondRC 1st 124017 came in today as well as the 124019. Checked over the 124017 and it has the blue motor mount and the colorful controller with phone holder..also noticed it has a purple drive shaft. The 124019 is supposed to be a V2 as well but no clue what would make it a V2 I didn't think the v1 of the 124019 had cogging issues so not sure what they would have done on the V2? Either way I'm assuming I need to grease the diffs on both of them. Would white lithium grease be a good choice or should I use something more like marine grease for trailer bearings or something completely different? (No local hobby shop so hoping I can use some kind of grease from auto parts shop)
If charged correctly it’s very very very rare, incorrect charging and punctured packs are usually the main things that start fires. In the very early days some chargers didn’t have very good safety features built in. These days a lot of chargers notify you of errors. Good practise through 👍😎
mjx are nice to have but are so hard to work on i am trying to get rid of them all they dont really have something special compared to for example a arrma mojave gom and they are made to work and not break instead of handeling and stability
I'm not gonna watch this whole video as I've been in the hobby for years. Currently with 30 from 1/18 scale all the way up to 1/5 scale. What i will say though is for a beginner, a kit is the best option. Though more expensive depending on what electronics you use, diff oils, shock oils, etc etc etc. but here is why. Number 1, they will have to buy all the proper tools and equipment up front and become familiar with the tools so when they do need to repair their RC, they will understand what is required. Number 2, They will have a much better understanding of the RC and what part is what and what to look for and listen for. Number 3, they will know where to get the parts and tools they need for the hobby. Number 4, they will put in more research to figure out what they want to build as they will be spending more initially. Number 5, when the RC breaks they will know exactly where the breakage is and how to fix it. There is plenty more pros but they can all be generalized into one of those 5. The reason i say kits are better for a beginner aside from the 5 things i listed is i see the same questions over and over and over in the forums of questions where if they just simply remove a pinion cover or remove a diff cover could figure out on their own. Ive witnessed people posting videos of the set screw on the pinion coming loose and spinning on the motor shaft and cannot figure it out on their own. They have become too accustomed to just hopping online to get their answer to only have several noobs in the comments giving them the wrong answer and one person whos been in the hobby for several years giving them the right answer. Then all of the sudden they are back in the forums, getting the wrong answers all over again. They become frustrated with the hobby, and all over the set screw on the pinion coming loose (as our example)
Might also wanna add that c ratings on lipos are basically utter arbitrary marketing bullshit. I am willing to bet that a modestly rated traxxas 25c lipo is gonna run circles around my 100c zee batteries.
Oh for sure. People think high c ratings means more power even in lower end brushless systems. Incorrect. The electronics will only pull what they need and having a 100c battery in a low powered setup will make no more difference to a lower c battery. What’s worse is even people who spend lots and consider themselves experts in RC also think this is the case! I’m hoping people watching the c rating part of the video realise that it’s just marketing tricks to make you think you are getting higher performance but a lot of the time it’s not the battery but the electronics and gearing that dictate that. In most cases lower c ratings are fine for every day use and rarely is there a case for anything more than 50c unless running some serious high powered speed run setups which pull stupid amounts of power from batteries!
Get an arrma typhon 3s or an Ftx brushless, started with tamiya didn’t research the hobby or modern rcs then got an Ftx vantage sold that then got the typhon. Still got the lunchbox and built a hornet but the tamiya is junk, get brushless 2/3s mor fun.
Gorgons in oz are available.. the next ones fury and vorteks are still to get here.. as for the grom range.. the granite is around but the supply of typhons are non existent... The Mojave has been bumped from month to month to month again and again and again.. still haven't had any enter the country to be stocked by hobby shops...
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the longest video i have ever done but i hope its useful to beginners who are getting into or considering the RC Hobby for the first time! I want this to be a video which answers most of the common questions especially around Lipo Batteries as they are one of the most misunderstood things in the hobby with so much conflicting information out there i hope i covered everything in as much details as possible and as easy as possible. This video is a combination of new/old footage over the last 4.5 years i have been doing youtube so you may notice quality/audio changes throughout. As nice as it would be to cover everything again in glorious 4k this would take me weeks to do and essentially the information is still the same nothing has changed! Experienced hobbyists feel free to leave your comments below if you feel there is anything a beginner should really know and i may have missed! Much appreciated!
Lots of awesome new reviews coming in the next couple of weeks so stay tuned!
Electric all the way
@@radio-controlledcouk 1/8 buggy/truggy pro sport are the best nitro. .21 .28 .32
ive just purchased the mjx 10208 v2 1:10 and i am waiting for it!
Look at that young man… I just realized how long I’ve been watching you sir… you definitely have grown and so has your content 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you 🙏
An option to keep in mind is Team Magic, I have ended up becoming an admirer of the brand. They have cars with very good features at a good price. For example, I have the Team Magic E5, which is a 1/10 brushless monster and the quality-price ratio is very good, it is very hard and fun. One of my best purchases.
Same here. Even got the 4S version for less than I'd have paid for the 3S version at other shops. It's crazy fast, built like a tank, but mine needed a motor fan dearly, otherwise it is cooking within minutes. But I wouldn't consider it a typical beginners' car (even though it was the first for me, except for a 1:10 sand buggy for my son).
I'd recommend skipping brushed rcs unless you enjoy working on stuff/wanting to do your own upgrades and go for a 3s arrma.
I’m budget allows I have to agree skip straight to brushless and just turn the throttle rate down until used to the power. Brushed in 2024 is debatable lol
Or for a little less money, a 3s ftx apache short course truck, or a ftx vantage buggy. Arrma is awesome too
I'd imagine brushed to be a hassle for a newcomer. Aside from lack of oomph, they don't last very long.
I think RMA-ing a warranty replacement, waiting for the shipment and reinstallation every 4 months (depending on how often you drive) would get old quickly.
I'm so glad I read reviews and skipped brushed and saved up more for a 3s Arrma.
Then I got tired of funneling money into the platform and now own a TC Kagama. But the 3s Granite taught me how to drive and how to wrench.
Great starter truck.
Knowing then what I know now, I'd have gone with the Senton 3s for maximum durability. 💪🏽
Maintenance: if your vehicle clicks while moving forward, it's likely the rear diff (or center diff if you have one). If it clicks while braking or in reverse: it's likely the front diff.
Good watch, covers the popular options. I've got a fair amount of MJX and Rlaarlo cars but the highlight of the bunch is the 10208. Its been bullet proof so far on 4s and i push it hard. My only small criticism is that they should have called it a truggy as it sits lower to the ground, just like you mentioned. Not a major problem for me though, i think they nailed it for the money
I’m looking forward to trying this v2 kit for the mjx 10208 and it’s only £25
It’ll include.
Nylon chassis x1
Gearbox cover x1
Front shock mount x1
Rear shock mount x1
Front swing arm with C-hub assembly x1
Rear swing arm with C-hub assembly x1
Tie rod x6
Rear bumper x1
Rear arm code x1
Motor mount x1
Front and rear driveshafts x4
Front skid plate x1
Motor steel gear x1
Center differential large gear x1
Bearing x1
related screws x1
I can’t really say that’s a bad price. Already amazed with the car as my first electric rc. hoping this kit will give it that little extra ground clearance and width.
Not bad at all for the price. Im guessing we will see the RTR v2's soon!
Keep up the great video content!😊 I have my ultimate RC car the Arrma TLR Typhon, brilliant machine.
Always go with good batteries, my xrt batteries just caught bad fire. I was using stock traxxas 6700 mah batteries with max 5 g2 and it was a bad decision.
Also Thank you for this comprehensive guide!
Also would you say in terms of storage .. it’s important to know the watt hours of the batteries.. I have mostly spectrum g2s .. I have storage sleeves and boxes from a company called cellbock a few 800 watt hours sleeves and a 1000 watt hours box .. very expensive.. but in terms of lipo storage it’s one of the most important things.. also like you said if you charge properly.. know that every cell should be 3.7-3.8 volts for storage your lipos will like you! Haha
The cheapest easiest way to learn is 1/10 Touring Kit Electric (Tamiya TT-02, Spec-R S2, Yokomo RS 2.0). The second cheapest easiest way to get in (the fun way) is offroad 1/10 2wd RTR Electric (Stampede, Rustler, Gorgon, Vorteks). Best to go with both before doing nitro or even brushless. There are 1/18 and 1/16 options, but those are very limited (Mini B, Grom, M18).
I've had RC for years but I'm only 3 months in to Lipo...... and FINALLY I now understand C rating 😂 so THANK YOU !!!
Hahaha one of the most confusing things out there and so many think higher c is faster/better etc wrong. It’s also a way for batteries companies to make you think you are getting higher performance. It’s shocking how many people don’t know the difference with c ratings even the so called enthusiasts!!! Higher c is favoured if you are pulling some serious power like speed run records etc. for day to day most cases 20-30 is more than enough!
@@beyondRC you explained it brilliantly !
Really informative video. I got my 1st what I would call "hoby grade" rc car in 2020 during lock down. But what stops me from buying new rc cars is the fact that nearly all the controllers are geared towards right handed operators. I'm one of those people who are probably wired weirdly. I'm right handed, but use the controllers left handed, i.e. the steering wheel on the left.
Check out the noble nb4+ you can flip the wheel around 😉
@@beyondRC yes. Had my eye on one of those since it came out. Bit pricey for my pocket. But I know they are worth it.
I'd recommend a tamiya tto2 learn how to build it once you build it you know how to take it apart aswell as learn how to spray paint that's where I started and I've stuck with the tt02 another thing very easy to upgrade
Good to have a review of the basics. I always learn from this. Thank you. 👍🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Perth Australia isn’t always easy to find rc cars or parts and ordering online takes ages
sooo much good information in here. I've ben at this a while and I learned something too. Love how you broke it out too, very helpful. Rlaarlo shipping has definitely improved.. it took 3 days from when my ROG1 arrive from fulfillment. though it did take them about a week to actual send it out. but then my next parts order I put in yesterday already shipped.. so if they can keep the 3 day turn around for me I'm happy with that :)
Me and the gang run Tamiya TT02B 17t brushed and we do that to match performance, cheap spares etc and we have great fun racing about.
We have brushless 3S trucks buggies etc but always end up pissing about with stupid Lunchboxes and 1/10 buggies!
I suppose with RC you need to try before you know what you want, location of use is massive, flat fields WOT are boring af imo
We have the persuaders, cars we use to get people into it with us 😁
If you have kids my advice is buy a lunchbox, build it with them, have some fun together, then they can keep it and you have a better idea of what you want next, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s another lunchbox to have more fun with the kid 🤔 😂
As long as you having fun though you are doing it right ✌️
Great video full of quality advice btw 👍
My 2p is don’t go cheap on a charger!
Buy the best you can as soon as you can 🫡
Absolutely 💯 and great advice about charger 👍👍
Great video. Although im not a beginner, I wish I'd had this video to watch when I started out.
Great content bro 👏
Appreciate it!
Great video! My 5,5 years old son is getting more and more interested in rc cars, so I decided Santa will bring him his first real rc this Christmas. I plan to have an MJX 14210 or 16208. I was looking for a car in the "cheap" category because what if he does not like it or my daughter wants one too. $$$
Since it will be a Xmas gift, can these cars be used in winter conditions? Obviously we won't bash in the snow, but if the weather is dry how much does cold hurts the machines? How much does it reduce battery life? Instead of the stock battery, we would use something with bigger capacity, so the fun does not only las for 6-8 minutes. Do the parts brake more easily becasue they are more to the cold? There is a small BMX track near us that almost no one ever uses, we could have fun there.
Yes they can but just make sure they are cleaned, lubricated and washed down/air compressed etc to remove water which gets into everything! The cold wont affect them too much the plastics can become more brittle (Sometimes) battery in my opinion doesn't take that much of a hit and you should be fine. Enjoy
I honestly love nimh packs
nice guide bro,love from indonesia
I'm shocked the Redcat wasn't Included. As for number 1, idk the amount of people who complained about the steering and handling is a bit concerning. I also remember it being way cheaper than it is now.
Ultimately it's a nice spread. Poor ROG1 😂 little fella def needed a spot
Redcat is unavailable for us in the UK and im sure they are limited in other places around the world. Strange i wish they were available here! The ROG1 is a brilliant little truck the only issue is local parts support. For us the hyper go is available locally and with excellent parts support at seriousrc.co.uk. Beginners are almost certain going to break something so all these factors i had to consider.. But that said if people are willing to wait 2 weeks for parts the ROG1 is brilliant!
@@beyondRC I forget often that you're in the UK sorry man.
But I guess I'm sorta in the same boat, everything I order has to pass through either the US (usually) and sometimes uk then forwarded to me. So every part I want takes about 2 weeks 😅 and local part support is non existent
great info video
Greets! 👋🏻
Thanks for this really helpful video and your content overall :) One question: I have nearly all things I need for the hobby (tools, greece, dumper oil, locktide) But today my new arrma gorgon has arrived (such a great looking and driving car😍) and the instructions manual says that after 10 - 15 runs you should remove the motor and re oil the motor shaft bushes with some bush / lightweight oil. I'm a bit confused 🤔 What is light wight oil and where can I get it? Nothing found on Amazon etc...
i think some normal 3 in 1 oil should do it..
@@beyondRC OK, thanks!
Mistakes newbies make! Learn to drive! You don't need full power all the time,it's controlable.Also when it is approching,turning left makes it go right. Simple but not for some people. Der, I'm not stupid they say!
Do you have a link for some of the products you're showing? Especially the screwdrivers :)
www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fastrax-imperial-hex-wrench-set-12984
uk.banggood.com/4Pcs-1_5-or-2_0-or-2_5-or-3_0mm-Titanium-Alloy-Hex-Screwdriver-Tool-Kit-for-RC-FPV-Drone-p-1972170.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search
Thanks! :) Great video by the way!
@@Frido1510 Much appreciated!
Which batteries are better to use in the big rock 6s??
hi what about high c battery like me smc 7600 3s with a 150c ? so far on my trx6 hauler i can do about 4-5h trail and 1h30 on my slash
150c battery on a crawler is insane 😮
Just trying to get my family into rc do timing of this I'd great. I just ordered two wltoys 124017's one for me and wife and ordered a 124019 for my daughter. Would have went all 124017's but figured for her 1st "hobby grade" rc the 124019 would be fast enough also because it's a bday present I wanted to make sure she didn't get an rc with cogging issues and have to go through return process. That being said I'm really hoping I didn't make a mistake ordering the 124017's because of the version 1 issues hoping I got v2 versions as listed but I don't trust the seller in the slightest they already lied to me trying to tell me there was no version 1 or 2. Is there anything I can visibly tell the difference between version 1 and version 2? Have heard v2 has blue motor mount and blue steering wheel but I'm not sure if that's accurate
That’s accurate the v2 usually come with a blue wheel. There is definitely two versions and it was years ago now that all this took place. Id like to think hardly any v1s are still in existence
@@beyondRCwas just watching the part on batteries. Didn't mention puffed up lipo batteries. I'm assuming not to use those ones?
@beyondRC 1st 124017 came in today as well as the 124019. Checked over the 124017 and it has the blue motor mount and the colorful controller with phone holder..also noticed it has a purple drive shaft. The 124019 is supposed to be a V2 as well but no clue what would make it a V2 I didn't think the v1 of the 124019 had cogging issues so not sure what they would have done on the V2?
Either way I'm assuming I need to grease the diffs on both of them. Would white lithium grease be a good choice or should I use something more like marine grease for trailer bearings or something completely different? (No local hobby shop so hoping I can use some kind of grease from auto parts shop)
I built a charging station so to speak outside my house just incase something were to happen I don't lose my house and it doubles as storage
If charged correctly it’s very very very rare, incorrect charging and punctured packs are usually the main things that start fires. In the very early days some chargers didn’t have very good safety features built in. These days a lot of chargers notify you of errors. Good practise through 👍😎
I’m surprised you put the 14210 over the rog1 after your previous video comparing them
Both very good. The mjx is a better choice if in the uk due to local parts support at serious RC. 👍
@@beyondRC ah I just ordered a rog1 but the 14210 has much better part support here (australia), did i make a mistake
@@itsjase92 not at all the rog1 is a very good truck and does drive slightly better compared to the mjx.
mjx are nice to have but are so hard to work on i am trying to get rid of them all
they dont really have something special
compared to for example a arrma mojave gom
and they are made to work and not break instead of handeling and stability
I'm not gonna watch this whole video as I've been in the hobby for years. Currently with 30 from 1/18 scale all the way up to 1/5 scale. What i will say though is for a beginner, a kit is the best option. Though more expensive depending on what electronics you use, diff oils, shock oils, etc etc etc. but here is why. Number 1, they will have to buy all the proper tools and equipment up front and become familiar with the tools so when they do need to repair their RC, they will understand what is required. Number 2, They will have a much better understanding of the RC and what part is what and what to look for and listen for. Number 3, they will know where to get the parts and tools they need for the hobby. Number 4, they will put in more research to figure out what they want to build as they will be spending more initially. Number 5, when the RC breaks they will know exactly where the breakage is and how to fix it. There is plenty more pros but they can all be generalized into one of those 5.
The reason i say kits are better for a beginner aside from the 5 things i listed is i see the same questions over and over and over in the forums of questions where if they just simply remove a pinion cover or remove a diff cover could figure out on their own. Ive witnessed people posting videos of the set screw on the pinion coming loose and spinning on the motor shaft and cannot figure it out on their own. They have become too accustomed to just hopping online to get their answer to only have several noobs in the comments giving them the wrong answer and one person whos been in the hobby for several years giving them the right answer. Then all of the sudden they are back in the forums, getting the wrong answers all over again. They become frustrated with the hobby, and all over the set screw on the pinion coming loose (as our example)
Fantastic points! We see it all the time the most basic things that can sometimes be fixed in seconds! Excellent write up 👍
Might also wanna add that c ratings on lipos are basically utter arbitrary marketing bullshit.
I am willing to bet that a modestly rated traxxas 25c lipo is gonna run circles around my 100c zee batteries.
Oh for sure. People think high c ratings means more power even in lower end brushless systems. Incorrect. The electronics will only pull what they need and having a 100c battery in a low powered setup will make no more difference to a lower c battery. What’s worse is even people who spend lots and consider themselves experts in RC also think this is the case! I’m hoping people watching the c rating part of the video realise that it’s just marketing tricks to make you think you are getting higher performance but a lot of the time it’s not the battery but the electronics and gearing that dictate that. In most cases lower c ratings are fine for every day use and rarely is there a case for anything more than 50c unless running some serious high powered speed run setups which pull stupid amounts of power from batteries!
Get an arrma typhon 3s or an Ftx brushless, started with tamiya didn’t research the hobby or modern rcs then got an Ftx vantage sold that then got the typhon. Still got the lunchbox and built a hornet but the tamiya is junk, get brushless 2/3s mor fun.
Not the biggest Tamiya fan myself i get the nostalgia vibe but there is way more performance to be had from 'Modern' cars!
Just charge em on the usb charger that comes with the car, no?? When they stop working in the car
3rd
Yeeeeeah,the brands get us too,arrma grom for example ,we know the diffs are basically crap and 2 diffs for a $140 car is $70,that's bs
Just charge your packs till they puff they love it
The maverick breaks diffs by just looking at it💩🙈
Gorgons in oz are available.. the next ones fury and vorteks are still to get here.. as for the grom range.. the granite is around but the supply of typhons are non existent... The Mojave has been bumped from month to month to month again and again and again.. still haven't had any enter the country to be stocked by hobby shops...
Availability here in the Uk has got better but prices of parts is still stupidly expensive!
Solid content 👌 you pretty much nailed it!🫡