I believe you got it backwards, the upper/back dial is the stitch length, the lower/front dial is the differential feed. However, it seems like you got a decent results at the end! I read a lot about this machine before I bought mine (Elna 444, same machine, different name) and it seems like some of them are almost impossible to get decent results from, while others have no problems at all. I guess I lucked out, mine sews flawlessly whatever crazy thing I do with it, I've put old 8 nm upholstery thread in the looper to make thick decorative stitching. Worked fine when I bypassed all the tensioning... Tested lots of other threads and materials for fun, never had a real problem! I bought it second hand for cheap, intending only to have some fun with it, so my expectations may be a lot lower, and I usually have a bit of a good hand with weird machines in general, but I've seen reports from many more experienced sewers who have this machine and can't get it to work reliably at all, whatever they try, using new high quality needles and threads and following all recommendations to the letter! My guess is that there's some timing issue or other basic adjustment, or even some manufacturing quality defect like warped castings or similar problems, that make some of these machines just work flawlessly while others are almost impossible to get to work reliably at all!
I truly believe it us because they are missing the same step in threading the looper that I did. When you brings the thread down and through the clip at the bottom you have to pull the thread to the back to activate that little spring or the machine will NOT work properly. All you will get is major tunneling unless you set the threader to 0.
Yes i had the same issues with the looper and the book says nothing. It should make 2 noises when properly seated or just look in there with a flashlight. The spring that keeps it from popping back out of the side is a little too long you can take it out and shorten it. I almost did but was too impatient as I actually had to take my machine apart because the takeup spring right there at the sliding lower looper was not working. Turns out when they assembled it they did a sloppy job and honestly its very cheap barely works design and any little misalignment will cause that take up spring to not move freely and therefore not take up the thread slack. This only effects it when the slider is set to the left. Mine had the spring set to the least tension setting (there are 6 slots for the spring tension to be changed to) by moving the end hook of the spring you increase or decrease the take up spring tension but its cheap and they hold the spring on with a speed nut type push on fastener. I just pryed it back a hair and slid the spring where I felt it was proper and pushed the speed nut back in place. Its all plastic so it was already damaged from assembly at the factory. Also the slider was not straight there is a screw to move it a little and the spring had to be adjusted to move through the plastic slider straight because it was at a angle and binding on the plastic slider. Its really a cheap setup and if it continues to break I might just add an external type in the housing by the threading diagram. Something off an older machine. I'm still trying to get mine mastered it is a payne. Overlocker specific thread does make a night and day difference too. Hope that helps someone. If you cant hear that spring making some noise under tension sewing then check it. You can see it just working thread through the guide by hand and when you pull on it it will stay with the thread and spring back with it. If it moves once and stops then its binding up. A guy on amazon reviews tipped me onto it reading his reviews and i just had a feeling.
I used little strips of blue painter’s tape and a sharpie to create labels and little helpful notes that I taped directly on my machine as I read the manual.
I noticed that right away too. He probably didn't read the manual, however; my machine has NEVER worked. Fifty hours plus later for this veteran sewist has resulted in total frustration. Now to find a Janome mechanic with a knowledge of sergers/cover stitch machines. I traveled 50 miles to a Janome mechanic - but she was clueless because she owns a quilt shop and doesn't have any experience with sergers. Oh well, I have a new friend because she is a delight and sat down with me and let me show her all of the trouble shooting I had done. Blessings from frustration...
I went back and watched the whole video because I was so fustrated with the results I was getting. Then I bought a book on coverstitch machines and in thg he process of reading the book with my manual right next to I I realized that I had been threading the looper incorrectly. You know that little silver clip the thread goes through at the bottom of the tension dial? After the thread goes through the clip it turns a hard left and goes through the moving bars with the hole (sorry for bad description I'm sick and its late) well my manual shows that you have to pull the thread to the back to get it properly threaded. After I figured that out it worked correctly. Boy did I feel dumb!
I wanted to watch this to get some fine points of the machine as I have a similar 3 thread machine. The jumpy camera work is awful and dizzying. You have the differential feed and stitch length mixed up, the switch at the front is not tension but rather the slightly different stitch formation for knits and wovens, etc etc. While I am sure you have some great hints, perhaps it is time to read the manual, take down this video and RESHOOT it.
Mr. Rogers - the machine comes with standard sharps in the ELx705 system and is set up for sewing on wovens due to that fact. I also want to point out that you have mislabeled the knobs on the right of the machine. The top most one with the whole numbers denotes stitch length in millimeters. The lower knob is the differential feed. Your video has been no help at all because you blew it right in the beginning. I just can't trust advice from someone who is so uninformed.
You have saved my Coverpro 2000cpx from being thrown out the window! Thank you so much!
I believe you got it backwards, the upper/back dial is the stitch length, the lower/front dial is the differential feed. However, it seems like you got a decent results at the end!
I read a lot about this machine before I bought mine (Elna 444, same machine, different name) and it seems like some of them are almost impossible to get decent results from, while others have no problems at all.
I guess I lucked out, mine sews flawlessly whatever crazy thing I do with it, I've put old 8 nm upholstery thread in the looper to make thick decorative stitching. Worked fine when I bypassed all the tensioning... Tested lots of other threads and materials for fun, never had a real problem!
I bought it second hand for cheap, intending only to have some fun with it, so my expectations may be a lot lower, and I usually have a bit of a good hand with weird machines in general, but I've seen reports from many more experienced sewers who have this machine and can't get it to work reliably at all, whatever they try, using new high quality needles and threads and following all recommendations to the letter!
My guess is that there's some timing issue or other basic adjustment, or even some manufacturing quality defect like warped castings or similar problems, that make some of these machines just work flawlessly while others are almost impossible to get to work reliably at all!
Thank you for taking the time to write this and for explaining my error. That will help me greatly for the future to realize where I have gone wrong.
Best of luck with our machine, I hope it turns out to be one of the good ones!
I truly believe it us because they are missing the same step in threading the looper that I did. When you brings the thread down and through the clip at the bottom you have to pull the thread to the back to activate that little spring or the machine will NOT work properly. All you will get is major tunneling unless you set the threader to 0.
Yes i had the same issues with the looper and the book says nothing. It should make 2 noises when properly seated or just look in there with a flashlight. The spring that keeps it from popping back out of the side is a little too long you can take it out and shorten it. I almost did but was too impatient as I actually had to take my machine apart because the takeup spring right there at the sliding lower looper was not working. Turns out when they assembled it they did a sloppy job and honestly its very cheap barely works design and any little misalignment will cause that take up spring to not move freely and therefore not take up the thread slack. This only effects it when the slider is set to the left. Mine had the spring set to the least tension setting (there are 6 slots for the spring tension to be changed to) by moving the end hook of the spring you increase or decrease the take up spring tension but its cheap and they hold the spring on with a speed nut type push on fastener. I just pryed it back a hair and slid the spring where I felt it was proper and pushed the speed nut back in place. Its all plastic so it was already damaged from assembly at the factory. Also the slider was not straight there is a screw to move it a little and the spring had to be adjusted to move through the plastic slider straight because it was at a angle and binding on the plastic slider. Its really a cheap setup and if it continues to break I might just add an external type in the housing by the threading diagram. Something off an older machine. I'm still trying to get mine mastered it is a payne. Overlocker specific thread does make a night and day difference too. Hope that helps someone. If you cant hear that spring making some noise under tension sewing then check it. You can see it just working thread through the guide by hand and when you pull on it it will stay with the thread and spring back with it. If it moves once and stops then its binding up. A guy on amazon reviews tipped me onto it reading his reviews and i just had a feeling.
I happened to benefit from your above video - thank you for taking the time to create this video!
I wish I had a friend like u I want to play with all ur toys lol 😂 ur very blessed
I used little strips of blue painter’s tape and a sharpie to create labels and little helpful notes that I taped directly on my machine as I read the manual.
That is a great idea thank you.
Hi! Have you checked if feed dogs are too low in the back?
That is a good thought. I will check that. Thank you.
What a wonderfull table you have to your coverpro machine .. where did you bought it?
It is a sew steady table. They can ordered from eBay or I believe there is a sewsteady website too.
Molto utile. Grazie 😊
Ok, turned off your video because you didn't know which was the stitch length and which was differential. You blew your credibility
I noticed that right away too. He probably didn't read the manual, however; my machine has NEVER worked. Fifty hours plus later for this veteran sewist has resulted in total frustration. Now to find a Janome mechanic with a knowledge of sergers/cover stitch machines. I traveled 50 miles to a Janome mechanic - but she was clueless because she owns a quilt shop and doesn't have any experience with sergers. Oh well, I have a new friend because she is a delight and sat down with me and let me show her all of the trouble shooting I had done. Blessings from frustration...
I went back and watched the whole video because I was so fustrated with the results I was getting. Then I bought a book on coverstitch machines and in thg he process of reading the book with my manual right next to I I realized that I had been threading the looper incorrectly. You know that little silver clip the thread goes through at the bottom of the tension dial? After the thread goes through the clip it turns a hard left and goes through the moving bars with the hole (sorry for bad description I'm sick and its late) well my manual shows that you have to pull the thread to the back to get it properly threaded. After I figured that out it worked correctly. Boy did I feel dumb!
I have the juki cover stitch I love it but it can be a real pain with the thread coming out
Have you tried setting needle tension at 3?
Yes, depending on the fabric, I have played with that setting too.
I wanted to watch this to get some fine points of the machine as I have a similar 3 thread machine. The jumpy camera work is awful and dizzying. You have the differential feed and stitch length mixed up, the switch at the front is not tension but rather the slightly different stitch formation for knits and wovens, etc etc. While I am sure you have some great hints, perhaps it is time to read the manual, take down this video and RESHOOT it.
Mr. Rogers - the machine comes with standard sharps in the ELx705 system and is set up for sewing on wovens due to that fact. I also want to point out that you have mislabeled the knobs on the right of the machine. The top most one with the whole numbers denotes stitch length in millimeters. The lower knob is the differential feed. Your video has been no help at all because you blew it right in the beginning. I just can't trust advice from someone who is so uninformed.