yeeah AC/DC is maybe the best choice for this kind of video... also they fit very well, in terms of their thematics in their songs... many of them are about freedom and fun... and Offroad riding seems to be one of the last ways to realy live alot of freedom...
I appreciate your videos Kyle and enjoy watching your adventures a lot. I find the term keyboard jokes and the haters as others call them quite funny. I think a lot of them are usually just passionate about bikes and are offering their ideas and thoughts. This is a public forum and they may know a thing or two about what they are saying, or not. Thanks.
Not saying its impossible. But as a professional mechanic for over a decade. Ive never had an issue with removing fasteners in any particular order. Simply crack em all loose as Kyle did and good to go.
@@RavenHillReadiness I hate to tell you this but doing something wrong for 10 years doesnt make it the right way to do it, it just means you have gotten away with doing it wrong for 10 years. If there is enough force to warp a part when installing there is also enough force to warp it when removing.
@@TheKtm300rider Unless you remove one bolt at a time and leave one completely torqued. There wont be an issue. simple crack them loose once all are loose you can remove them in whatever which order. The purpose of a torque pattern is to apply equal pressure into the gasket/ Oring. You arent compressing or altering the cylinder head. Youre compressing the gasket or Oring. Im not suggesting just using an impact all willy nilly and completely removing one bolt at a time. But you do not need to reverse procedure on a torque sequence to remove a part.
@@RavenHillReadiness apparently you misunderstood my comment, crack them free in a star pattern to maintain even pressure for as long as possible. Of course it doesnt matter what order they are removed in once they are all loose.
Where’s the follow up review on this head? I’m debating if I should buy a 150xcw and would love to know if this head helps the bottom end power. Thanks!
I got to try a demo 150 xcw, and I found the low end outstanding. Then when you want the higher power it revs out and gives you what you want. It's such a versatile bike. A very very close 2nd place to my gas gas 300 ec. The only place I found it slightly lacking was in deep sand or mud. Those loose surfaces soak up the power a bit. But I'd sure consider buying one. They're a lot less tiring to ride than the 300's over whoops and in the tight stuff. KTM really made an amazing bike here. The motor is perfect.
Could you make a video on bleeding a KTM clutch and brake please. I’ve tried and tried bleeding them but I never get it right and I end up having to pay the KTM shop just to bleed them for me. Thx man. Awesome videos!!! Keep up the hard work
2 Stroke Smoke a trick for bleeding the clutch is to actually remove the slave cylinder and manipulate the piston by hand. It forces air bubbles up and works really well. Gravity bleed it to start and then once you have all new fluid in there start pushing the piston on the slave cylinder, then work the lever, then push the cylinder. Do that until you don’t see air coming up into the reservoir.
This works for me 100% of the times: 0] open master cylinder reservoir, put the handlebars and clutch/brake perch into horizontal position (the trick is to make sure that air will naturally flow into inlet ports. which are at highest point). 1] take a big syringe, connect it to a flexible hose, that will fit tight on the bleeding valve... 2] fill in the syringe and hose with brake fluid, and connect the hose to the bleeding valve. 3] raise the syringe, so that all air gets out of the hose and into the syringe piston (tap the hose a few times for bubbles to come up) 4] push the new fluid from the bottom slowly and use another syringe to drain the old fluid from reservoir... 5] repeat until all air and old fluid is out of the system and put proper fluid level into reservoir 6] close the bleeding valve, check the system is bled correctly, close the reservoir lid and ride.
2 Stroke Smoke you can bleed the clutch just by pressing the piston full in and pushing the air to the top Rear brake is easy Front just bleed it as much as you can from the bleeder on the caliper then push the caliper towatds the bike with your knee (this will push the piston into the caliper fast and push the air up ) Than start flicking the lever pull full in and let go fast
I'm excited by this. I am ordering one myself. Definitely worth trying the OEM Mikuni and jetting settings with the insert installed now too and compare to the Lectron. I know I'm on a keyboard right now but I bet that little beastie sounds a lot healthier without the Lectron (bigger motors seem to cope with the Lectron better as a grunt tamer and jetting avoidance trick). Nice job Kyle.
Kyle, in my experience the Lectron takes away bottom end from the two stokes. Any chance you would try one of JD Jetting’s Keihin short body carbs on either the 150 or 250? I have one on my 17 250 and it is night and day better than the Mikuni. Keep up the good work with the videos :)
Lectron sucks on a small bore...don't care what anyone says. Had 2 of them, one on my 250xcw (it's ok, not great) and on my 150xcw (horrible results). Robert is right (not just his experience), it doesn't pull for sh*t on the 150, went back to the Mikuni, now WAY better bottom end w/RK insert. Both carbs had/have the latest metering rods for each bike. Snake oil if you ask me. We're riding enduro's not drag bikes.
@@nickdougherty3528 this is from 5 years ago and a lot has happened since. I ditched Mikuni a long time ago, If you want to make a carbed 150xcw better, install the CDI from a SX 150 and a Dicks Racing 36mm Keihin modded (bored for 39mm top end). One of the best carbs ever. CDI swap alone is a great improvement.
I got the RK tech head for my 150 xcw and a noticeable difference in power alright, however the starter motor was struggling badly , has this been an issue for you?
Hey Kyle thanks for the video. I just put an RK tek head in my 2021 150 xc w tpi. Had no issues getting installed (thanks to this video) got it all back together made sure everything was reconnected, took it off the stand, and fired it up. It started and ran but when I went to hit the throttle, it died and wouldn’t start back up. Took the plug back out, cleaned it and still nothing. Any ideas?
Hey man this is a year late but did you ever figure out the issue? I also have a 21 150xcw tpi and I just got a rk tek head and ready to install. Was wondering if I should be cautious of anything after reading your comment
I was always taught when doing ur star pattern you dont want to completely tighten them untill u have gotten them all slightly tight. Or ur still just binding something.
How does this bike relate to the ktm 200 you’ve rode in the past.. the ktm 200 was my favorite bike to ride here in central Pennsylvania... does that 150 have jetting problems!! As always great job
How do you compare the 200 XC-W vs 150 XC-W? I have a 2015 KTM 200 XC-W and heard very good things about the 150. Would you say it's just as powerful? Thanks!
hoptard I see you edited your comment lol and deleted the most recent one. Maybe do some research next time before you tell someone that knows what they are talking about to stfu
What flywheel weight do you recommend i use on a yz250? I ride woods and its a mix of technical, open, everything you find in the woods. Also the places i ride also have an mx track which i ride some. I want the power to come on really smoothly so it is controllable and doesnt lift up every time i get on the throttle.
Just so you know the 200 is virtually the same motor as the 125 it's based on like the new 150 is to the new 125. It's likely KTM dropped the 200 as the 150 is able to race in the E1 category as it's144cc. Where the 200 would be in E2.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Cool! Can't wait to see the video of the test ride !
I think that was the coolest intro ever AC/DC "If you Want Blood" and a 2 stroke, heaven in a nutshell🤘i love your AC/DC intros
yeeah AC/DC is maybe the best choice for this kind of video...
also they fit very well, in terms of their thematics in their songs... many of them are about freedom and fun... and Offroad riding seems to be one of the last ways to realy live alot of freedom...
I appreciate your videos Kyle and enjoy watching your adventures a lot. I find the term keyboard jokes and the haters as others call them quite funny. I think a lot of them are usually just passionate about bikes and are offering their ideas and thoughts. This is a public forum and they may know a thing or two about what they are saying, or not. Thanks.
I will be awaiting your review of the RK Tek Head on the 150 xc-w.
Its just as important to use a star pattern when removing fasteners as it is when torquing fasteners.
Not saying its impossible. But as a professional mechanic for over a decade. Ive never had an issue with removing fasteners in any particular order. Simply crack em all loose as Kyle did and good to go.
@@RavenHillReadiness I hate to tell you this but doing something wrong for 10 years doesnt make it the right way to do it, it just means you have gotten away with doing it wrong for 10 years. If there is enough force to warp a part when installing there is also enough force to warp it when removing.
@@TheKtm300rider Unless you remove one bolt at a time and leave one completely torqued. There wont be an issue. simple crack them loose once all are loose you can remove them in whatever which order. The purpose of a torque pattern is to apply equal pressure into the gasket/ Oring. You arent compressing or altering the cylinder head. Youre compressing the gasket or Oring. Im not suggesting just using an impact all willy nilly and completely removing one bolt at a time. But you do not need to reverse procedure on a torque sequence to remove a part.
@@RavenHillReadiness apparently you misunderstood my comment, crack them free in a star pattern to maintain even pressure for as long as possible. Of course it doesnt matter what order they are removed in once they are all loose.
Where’s the follow up review on this head? I’m debating if I should buy a 150xcw and would love to know if this head helps the bottom end power. Thanks!
Don't let the negative nancys get to you Kyle. Great videos! 🖖
I got to try a demo 150 xcw, and I found the low end outstanding. Then when you want the higher power it revs out and gives you what you want. It's such a versatile bike. A very very close 2nd place to my gas gas 300 ec.
The only place I found it slightly lacking was in deep sand or mud. Those loose surfaces soak up the power a bit.
But I'd sure consider buying one. They're a lot less tiring to ride than the 300's over whoops and in the tight stuff.
KTM really made an amazing bike here. The motor is perfect.
I enjoyed your comment... thanks for the feedback.
Taylor St. Pierre good to know.. ever ride an older 150XC for comparison purposes? (I have one and was curious how much more torque the new ones have)
Check out Ernie Allen's videos....he's got both, believe a 13xc and the 17xcw.....and has comments about the comparison
Ernie also has a very in depth thread about the 150 xc-w on thumper talk...
www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1210445-2017-150-xc-w-review/
Thanks for this video - exactly what I needed today.
So that's where the wife's mixing bowl went... ;)
Those homemade cookies will never taste the same :)
Could you make a video on bleeding a KTM clutch and brake please. I’ve tried and tried bleeding them but I never get it right and I end up having to pay the KTM shop just to bleed them for me. Thx man. Awesome videos!!! Keep up the hard work
2 Stroke Smoke a trick for bleeding the clutch is to actually remove the slave cylinder and manipulate the piston by hand. It forces air bubbles up and works really well. Gravity bleed it to start and then once you have all new fluid in there start pushing the piston on the slave cylinder, then work the lever, then push the cylinder. Do that until you don’t see air coming up into the reservoir.
This works for me 100% of the times:
0] open master cylinder reservoir, put the handlebars and clutch/brake perch into horizontal position (the trick is to make sure that air will naturally flow into inlet ports. which are at highest point).
1] take a big syringe, connect it to a flexible hose, that will fit tight on the bleeding valve...
2] fill in the syringe and hose with brake fluid, and connect the hose to the bleeding valve.
3] raise the syringe, so that all air gets out of the hose and into the syringe piston (tap the hose a few times for bubbles to come up)
4] push the new fluid from the bottom slowly and use another syringe to drain the old fluid from reservoir...
5] repeat until all air and old fluid is out of the system and put proper fluid level into reservoir
6] close the bleeding valve, check the system is bled correctly, close the reservoir lid and ride.
2 Stroke Smoke you can bleed the clutch just by pressing the piston full in and pushing the air to the top
Rear brake is easy
Front just bleed it as much as you can from the bleeder on the caliper then push the caliper towatds the bike with your knee (this will push the piston into the caliper fast and push the air up )
Than start flicking the lever pull full in and let go fast
Keep up the great vids man lovin it!love the ktm 150
I'm excited by this. I am ordering one myself. Definitely worth trying the OEM Mikuni and jetting settings with the insert installed now too and compare to the Lectron. I know I'm on a keyboard right now but I bet that little beastie sounds a lot healthier without the Lectron (bigger motors seem to cope with the Lectron better as a grunt tamer and jetting avoidance trick). Nice job Kyle.
I’d love to see you try vmh heass
Make sure to check the coolant after you ran the bike for a while, the thermostat will open up and more air may come out
Equalizer dirt bikes don't have thermostats.
Trent Windom You can see it on the left at 5:25 , the black piece with 3 screws on the top
Kyle, in my experience the Lectron takes away bottom end from the two stokes. Any chance you would try one of JD Jetting’s Keihin short body carbs on either the 150 or 250? I have one on my 17 250 and it is night and day better than the Mikuni. Keep up the good work with the videos :)
The wrong metering rod can diminish bottom end, not the carb itself. It's really important to get the right rod.
Wes Hagler just my experience. Had a Slavens HV Lectron and it didn't pull near as well as the Keihin setup I am running now
Lectron sucks on a small bore...don't care what anyone says. Had 2 of them, one on my 250xcw (it's ok, not great) and on my 150xcw (horrible results). Robert is right (not just his experience), it doesn't pull for sh*t on the 150, went back to the Mikuni, now WAY better bottom end w/RK insert. Both carbs had/have the latest metering rods for each bike. Snake oil if you ask me. We're riding enduro's not drag bikes.
What's your jet needle carb set up ? @@hoptard
@@nickdougherty3528 this is from 5 years ago and a lot has happened since. I ditched Mikuni a long time ago, If you want to make a carbed 150xcw better, install the CDI from a SX 150 and a Dicks Racing 36mm Keihin modded (bored for 39mm top end). One of the best carbs ever. CDI swap alone is a great improvement.
Kyle, can you give me the link to the work stand u use, looks like a great work height. (Also where u get that flexible funnel) thanks!
Kyle Can you do a review on the Goldentyre Fatty front
I got the RK tech head for my 150 xcw and a noticeable difference in power alright, however the starter motor was struggling badly , has this been an issue for you?
so the head also gives more compression instead of just optimise the squish band?
Can I get on of these for my 2017 kx100? It's in need of low end.
How do you change the spark plug in these without the head insert falling into the cylinder?
When it’s installed, nothing can move whether the spark plug is installed or not
What camera do you use?
What kind of torque wrench is that and where did you pick it up?
Can you still run pump gas or do you have to add race fuel ?
Gloves help, nitrile gloves for the fluid/oil work and riding gloves will do after
Hey Kyle thanks for the video. I just put an RK tek head in my 2021 150 xc w tpi. Had no issues getting installed (thanks to this video) got it all back together made sure everything was reconnected, took it off the stand, and fired it up. It started and ran but when I went to hit the throttle, it died and wouldn’t start back up. Took the plug back out, cleaned it and still nothing. Any ideas?
You ever figure this out. I was thinking of ordereding a head for my 20 tpi
Hey man this is a year late but did you ever figure out the issue? I also have a 21 150xcw tpi and I just got a rk tek head and ready to install. Was wondering if I should be cautious of anything after reading your comment
I was always taught when doing ur star pattern you dont want to completely tighten them untill u have gotten them all slightly tight. Or ur still just binding something.
If I were to do this would it be a good idea to clean the piston while I have the head off
Mason Lappin no. Carbon debris could get in the engine
How does this bike relate to the ktm 200 you’ve rode in the past.. the ktm 200 was my favorite bike to ride here in central Pennsylvania... does that 150 have jetting problems!! As always great job
I bought my son an 06 ktm 85cc. I cant believe how fast that little bike is, we are in NEPA.
How do you compare the 200 XC-W vs 150 XC-W? I have a 2015 KTM 200 XC-W and heard very good things about the 150. Would you say it's just as powerful?
Thanks!
Aloha braddah
Would you advise installing this mod in the 2020 tpi version?
Try Beta x-trainer 300. For your terrains it should be perfect bike.
definitely put v force reeds on that
priv spice ktms come stock with a vforce reed cage copy.
TW: do you own the bike? just as I thought, so stfu. don't even know what you're talking about.
hoptard I own a 2016 150sx so, yes I do. Why don't you stfu
hoptard I see you edited your comment lol and deleted the most recent one. Maybe do some research next time before you tell someone that knows what they are talking about to stfu
so, you're still a moron
Is there any webbsite i can buy a rk tek head? I live i sweden tho. And i have a 125 xc-w 1017.
Cool DIY video. Ever notice how you don't mind doing maintenance or modifications to your dirt bike? Anything else forget it 😀
Did your KTM come with a free dog?
What kind of torque wrench is that?
Dirt Bike Channel what kind is that??
What flywheel weight do you recommend i use on a yz250? I ride woods and its a mix of technical, open, everything you find in the woods. Also the places i ride also have an mx track which i ride some. I want the power to come on really smoothly so it is controllable and doesnt lift up every time i get on the throttle.
Nice
Do they make a head that would fit a yz 125
Does anyone make an aftermarket exhaust for the 2020 KTM 150XCW TPI?
Anyone know what torque wrench that is?
Just so you know the 200 is virtually the same motor as the 125 it's based on like the new 150 is to the new 125. It's likely KTM dropped the 200 as the 150 is able to race in the E1 category as it's144cc. Where the 200 would be in E2.
Does anyone know if it's possible to find ktm 380 sx parts anywhere in the u.s.?
Justin Anderson should just get a cr or kx500 then. Lol fuck my Life
I can’t get the black piece of of my spark plug wtf
Did you steel the bowl from your wife's kitchen ? :)
Love your videos btw
My 18 150xcw ceased because it was jetted to lean
churr bro
How is someone going to diagnose a bike over a video online 😂
The plug dosent mean forsure if the bike is running lean or rich just by looking at it , ud have to cut the plug to know forsure.
My father is a has been tuning engines for 5 decades and he would beg to differ. Thanks for your comment though.
@@DirtBikeChannel You cannot tell 2 stroke richness based on how you looked at it. Has to be cut out on a test run, your dad is wrong... sorry
Review all this RK Tek head on the 150xcw?