LOVELY HOT RADIATORS! Thanks to thefor selecting the hardest song to do EVER. Very 'Mr Bungle' 🍺 *JOIN THE* *_Exclusive weekly live videos on Thursday_* : ruclips.net/user/plumberpartsjoin 🛠 *GET YOUR TESLA HERE ON AMAZON* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts 📺 *VLOG CHANNEL:* ruclips.net/user/timeswithjames
James, I agree with other comments on this product - it doesn’t seem to be available anywhere. I have a trade account with Wolseley and they are a Danfoss stockist, and they don’t even have the product. Will concede that the product seems quite new if the Danfoss website is anything to go by, but the only result from google covering any stockist, is the RAS-C2, which is the valve sensor. The main valve type (B2) does not seem to be available anywhere to purchase individually or as an installer package. If you could post a link as to where you can obtain, then great. Otherwise, you’ve clearly got friends in high places and keeping the good stuff to yourself...just teasing us! No-one likes a tease James!
Hello. I decided to fit these valves to my home and sadly it has not gone well. The RAS B2 in it's present form only works on radiators with a max flow rate of 110 l/h which it does not mention in the paperwork. I have gone through the APP and after checking all the radiators in my Daughters house of the 14, only seven will work with the valve fitted. I have raised this with Danfoss and I am waiting for a reply. They need to have a valve with a larger flow for bigger radiators. Not quite the easy fix it should be. Just thought I would make you aware. Peter
Great use of tech ... just one problem ROI. Unless these are cheap and it's a DIY install it really is just tech for tech's sake. Might make a bit more sense in a large new build.
i'm missing something here; the pre-setting app just takes into account the radiators specs... how does it account for where radiators are positioned on the heating loop ie. which ones are farthest away from the boiler?
The valve automatically accounts for the fact the closer rads have a higher pressure and restricts them a bit more. The 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 all equate to set flow rates, independent of how far away they are from the pump. So as long as the pump is large enough for the system and can meet 10kPa at the further rad, you are golden. Also means as some rads satisfy and the TRVs close down the other balancing valves also restrict to meet a good return temp and maintain condensing and avoid overflow and low Delta-T.
I agree. The rad furthest but set the same as a closest? And if ubsay it dynamically adjusts flow rate, what happens when the boiler reduces or increases the flow rate???
They should make fully wifi enabled valves and every radiator is monitored at both valves to determine the temp drop across the rad and it could also determine which rads are first and last in the chain by checking which heat up first, so can then balance them automatically. If these were rolled out in new builds it would save a lot of energy in the long run and would save plumbers time, plus less headaches for the customer after removing rads for decorating.
The biggest problem, I think, would be to make them mechanically sound and durable. Instead of the extremely simple TRV construction, you would need a logic board, sensors, radio(s), an actuator, power supply etc. But price-wise I believe it would provide immense savings. Pending them staying operative over a longer timespan, there would be a whole lot of plumbers and heat technicians without a job. And heating efficiency would be through the roof for each individual system.
And would make up for the fact that if you have TRV's you can't properly balance a system as the operation of the TRV's changes the dynamics of the system. So you balance the system with all valves open ,the system will only ever be in balance in that configuration. I've said this on other sites but was shot down because plumbers don't fully understand what they are doing when they balance a system. It worked years ago when you set you rad inlet and it stayed that way forever so your balance setup always worked
I would like to give this a go - BUT need to know a few things to before I start? Are the Danfoss RAS B2 Dynamic TRV's exactly the same size (as the Drayton TRV4's and Drayton Lock shields fitted to your system, as there is no play in my pipes and radiators)? The only adjustment you made was to remove an olive and reduce a copper pipe by a small amount (what brand and what tools did you use for these jobs)? For others considering this change to Danfoss Auto Balancing valves, are all brands of TRV's and Lock shields made to a standard spec size and interchangeable, or will they all need some changeover fitting modifications? Thanks for your inspiring videos!
Have 3 stelrad wall hanging radiators attached to 1 thermostat in the main room, a 4th in that series a 3 column steel wall unit in my mud room , with a TRV . I just replaced my door in the mud room & it hits the valve as it passes 90* open, I want it to open fully, so want to move the valve to the left side of the rad. That will make the hot water in & out on the same side out of the way clear of the door. I really have no other choice without doing major reno on the space ... should inlet be on the bottom & TRV outlet on top ?
Hi Great video as always 1 question im doing my bungalow up and changing the rads one at a time Do i have to do all the auto balancing trvs at once or can i do them one room at a time? Cheers
From reading about this, you have to change all of your rads to make it work. Also, there has been discussions I’ve read about checking your boiler pump is set correctly.
For optimum performance these TRV's should be fitted on the return side of the radiator in the horizontal position (recommended by Danfoss) Reluctantly I took all my TRV's off,I had fitted them flow side vertical I refitted them as recommended,it really does make a noticeable difference.
Thanks for that as it then makes sense. This guy's an idiot but never mind ! Actually, I fitted my TRVs not only on the return but under the middle of the rad - in the air flow before it goes up the rad. Also, you don't need to balance rads when you use TRVs !
On a new install I always fit the trv horizontal. For existing vertical trvs I put pipe insulation on the pipe under the trv and a folded patch of airtec double between the valve and the rad
My Honeywell TRVs say they can be fitted to either end of rad, flow or return - because when you think about it they can reduce or increase the flow from either end of the rad - if the water cannot get out, then it stops more coming in and vice versa
Enjoying your channel, I have recently moved into a bungalow and have replaced the old seized valves with Tado TRV's. The system comprises a Baxi Duo-Tec combi boiler and 6 radiators, the feed and return from the boiler are 22mm which runs under the floor for about 2 meters it then goes into step-down joints to 8mm pipes which run to each radiator, imagine a star burst (looking online I believe it is called a point to point system). The boiler is 8 years old and I think the pipework may be from when the bungalow was built in the mid 60's How would I balance this type of system and can I add a new radiator off the 22mm pipe into 15mm as there is no radiator in the kitchen.
hi ,just found you , at start of video you have a red designer rad , I have 2 of these and need the mounting brackets do you know who stocks them? PS great video
How do you ensure you correctly identify the feed and return ends of each radiator to start with? My system I'm sure has the control valves (no TRV's yet - aim to do at next drain down) the wrong way e.g. degree of heat seems greater at the lock shield end. Apologies for what is probably a very basic question. I noted on your video the TRV was exchanged for the other end of the 400 x 400 radiator. Thank you.
TRVs (universal / bidirectional) now installed some on flow and some on return for ease and convenience after long period of drain down. Balanced in 'normal' fashion and all seems well after a few issues of cold rads etc. I still don't know the first to last rad on the circuit however to be totally sure of the best outcome. Cheers guys. 🍻
hi I have just fitted a vertical rad but I want to feed it from the top is it possible I fitted this week but only hot at the top help please from sunny Skeggy
Ha! That was a late night and an early morning getting this up in time! Had to render the whole video in 3 segments then stitch it together and RENDER AGAIN. Might smash up my computer today!
Hi again, James. What if the customer wants to turn up a room temporarily, say for a visitor, then readjust afterwards? No reference even for a relative position of the one preset!
Hi, thanks for helping me to fit better product next time. You just follow app what number put on pre settings feature of the trv, It is just like Drayton rt212 with wax capsule and rt414 with liquid sensor which I normally fit and balance but none of the valves don't do anything automatically, but danfoss ras b2 make balancing little bit easier and gives more balance pressures through the heating system and I think it can help on system with variable temperature on heating system with external sensors. Anyway most people won't notice the installation is unbalanced, and 70/80% heating systems are anyway unbalanced, because it takes time to balance it. Regards
Brilliant idea and great video but I do wonder how many years it would take for the marginal Gas savings to cover the cost of the 14 valves I would need. Most users, unfortunately, don't understand thermostatic controls of any nature. The way most people use the Termostates controls of any type on all kinds of appliances and devices is to turn them up to a higher number to make things heat up faster. Generally this won't speed up the warm-up except for non-digital i.e. analogue devices like Temperature Controlled Valves take a couple of minutes to close as the temperature is reached but this has only a very marginal effect on the time from cold to the desired temperature.
Hi, In the offical instructions it says best performance is acheived in the horizontal position on the return side, there was no mention in your video about this fact. Did you read the instruction sheet?
No, of course he didn't. Someone else mentions this. It explains why I thought what he was doing was wrong too. I even fit TRVs on the return - for more accurate room temperature sensing.
Could I ask what you do (with these valves, and balancing the old fashioned way of measuring the temperature differential of the flow and return) when the system has automatically variable flow temperature from 30-75 oC? I’ve never seen anyone mention this, just what to do with a fixed temperature. With say a 35oC flow temp, surely the settings for a 75oC will not work as the valve will be shut down too much?
Thanks mate really enjoy your videos ,very informative and fun to watch . Keep them coming mate ,if you need an apprentice let me know lol. Joking apart would love to tag along with you on some jobs
Hi, I've just purchased these RAS-B2 dynamic radiator packs. However, when I go on the app I don't have any option for this model! Any ideas ??? Thank you.
Hey man been doing up my house and YOUR channel has been crucial for my success so far :) GREAT work bro... Wondering if you or ANYONE here could offer some advice... I already have underfloor heating system installed and I want to convert them to have TRV valves so I can use the Tado smart controllers on them ... how should I go about this? Is there a part upgrade I can do OR so I need a new manifold to do this? IF so which one. cheers mate... keep up the GREAT work.
Question! How do you remove the old radiator tales I've found most are well corroded into radiator so not able to replace them with new tales, is there an easy way to remove them? Please!
Great video, just about to fit some new rads in my house, so timely vid. However downloaded the app, it does have the RAS-D2 valves on the drop down list, only RA-N, RA-UN, RA-DV or RLV-KDV, any ideas?
Hi mate great vids. I need advice. I have conventional tank heating system. I would like to do combi. Any advice or recommendation like brand etc and the cost roughly
What are the two port and three port valves? Also, do I need to drain the feed tank in the loft in a vented system through that drain at the bottom on the radiator? I do have a leaver to isolate the tank in the loft from feeding the radiators so assume I can leave the feed tank in the loft isolated and full and do this job?
Hi, just watched your video. I know it's a year ago but when I look on your shop you don't sell B2 dynamic valves, are C2 tge sane as what you describe in the video????
Do you also need to fit these valves on the last radiator in the loop(feed-return)? What happen when all the thermostatic heads closes? It is also necessary to install a bypass valve near the boiler?
Does any1 know what are the best radiators to install in wet areas to avoid rusting or flaking paint?We upgraded our Heating System in 2015 frm gravity fed to mains with a Worcester Bosch Condensing Boiler but our Plumber fitted cheaper rads & rads in high humidity areas all the paint has started flaking off at the bottoms of all rads in these areas?
Another great video, silly question tho.. for example if you have a 600x1000 rad placed right next to the boiler (nicking a lot of flow) and the app suggests setting it to say ‘6’ and then another 600x1000 rad at the furthest end in the house will the app still suggest setting to ‘6’ ? Do you have to tell the app where the rads are in relation to the boiler?
The valve automatically accounts for the fact the closer rads have a higher pressure and restricts them a bit more. The 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 all equate to set flow rates, independent of how far away they are from the pump. So as long as the pump is large enough for the system and can meet 10kPa at the further rad, you are golden. Also means as some rads satisfy and the TRVs close down the other balancing valves also restrict to meet a good return temp and maintain condensing and avoid overflow and low Delta-T.
Near read will heat room quicker and TRV on it will close quicker - doing all the rad balancing you ever need without the use of these over-complex valves !
What happens in the room where the room thermostat eg. Hive is located where trvs wouldn’t normally be used? Can the b2 trv head be locked full-on or is there a blanking cap that can be used? (So you don’t see the bright green bit and the pin sticking out)
I'm assuming you already knew the Drayton TRV4 units you removed have the very same system? Granted they don't seem to have the same app that makes one hell of a difference
The drayton TRV4 has a presetting function, but does not dynamically adjust the flow when other radiators in the system shut down - you still get overflow when system is at partial load with TRV4.
@@agtqrs holly hell I didn't catch the bit about it affectively being a PI-TRV on older systems with uncontrolled pumps this would save hours and massive amounts of money
Sorry to be thick, isn't this just using a little more science to set the lock shield in relation to the rad size. Not sure a retro change just the have these, warrants the amount of work involved, fine for new installs. I agree it might make the plumber look a little more professional. Thanks as ever for the weekly education. My mates often ask me how I know so much about plumbing!
Spot on mate, its just a numbered lockshield coupled with a TRV so you get a better idea of how "open" the valve is. Not really worth retro fitting but maybe worth a punt on a fresh install.....
Balancing a system depends on how far away each radiator is from the pump right? So how can these work? I.e. if I have 2 rads the same and I set the balancing nut to 2 on both, but 1 rad is the first on the system and rad 2 is the last (e.g. 9th) on the system, the system will not be balanced??!!
Is it illegal for Apartment owner to put some kind device to control the heating at times of day? I have noticed after they installed some kind of 3 x 2 inch box to our radiators, at night time when they assume most people go to sleep and are under covers in their beds radiators across all the room start dropping temperatures next to nothing. What should i do? Can i report this to health department?
How do you know which is the flow and return? I know one side gets hotter than the other but if your trying to check say six radiators all at once how do you do that quickly before they all heat up..?
Turn all radiators off except one then check that radiator then move onto next one turn on check that and so on.. If the flow is on the right side of one chances are it will be the same with them all
@@malcb1864 ha overthinking it probably, you should have time to go around and check without doing this radiators usually take at least 15-20 minutes to heat fully
What should we do when we turn the heating back on after being off all summer? We moved into our house at the beginning of summer so we’ve never had the heating on but we did turn it on to check it works, no radiators in the house got hot only very mildly warm.
If i strangle a radiator with my locksheilds, even slightly, it starts to make the radiator noisey restriction gushing noise..any way round this i am guessing not ?
Too much pressure from the pump mate. Turn it down a notch or two or fit and set an automatic bypass to stop the noise if not installed already. This is not for a combi as it’s probably got one already built in. On some boilers models the bypass is adjustable but you would need to remove the case in which case you would have to be gas safe registered if the case is part of the combustion seal.
Great video and the product looks great. I don't know which radiators in my house heat up first so I would think this product would solve that problem but can't find to buy it anywhere even on your amazon page
I though you should always put the TRV parallel to the rad and not vertiucal as you have. The heat of the rad influnces the TRV in the vertkla position.
All our rads are hot except for one, stays cold at the top! Bled all the air out and the pressure is ok (not sure if that makes a difference) but still cold at the top, any ideas?
@@murtmtb3284 But that doesn't mean new air hasn't arrived into the rad ! The first rad in the system is usually the one that collects all the air. One option is to add an automatic air vent to the top of the rad. I designed my system to remove all air before the first rad.
I got a problem trying to balance a tall column rad. It's strangled quite a bit atm, if I turn it up you can hear the boiler constantly throttling up and down, any ideas?
@@alexlangheld gulp! Haha. I did notice the hot water was going straight through the bottom so I fitted an aftet market baffle. Hadn't considered one might of been in the top!
HELLO JUST BOUGHT THE RAS-B2 TO FIT ON ALL MY RADS WHEN I JUST CAME TO A PROBBLEM WITH THE ONE RAD ITS A T22 600/1400 ITS SAYS ON THE APP THE VAUE CANNOT PROVIDE THE FLOW NEEDED PLEASE CHANGE SYSTEM AND OR RADIATOR PROPERTIES MY SETUP IS FLOW TEMP 70c RETURN 55c DEFFERENTIAL PRESSURE IS 10KPA CAN YOU HELP PLEASE
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
LOVELY HOT RADIATORS! Thanks to thefor selecting the hardest song to do EVER. Very 'Mr Bungle'
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,
T link?
Great video. One question how do you know that these new TRVs have actually improved performance over the old TRVs?
What a thorough explanation from beginning to end .
Thank you for doing that .
James, I agree with other comments on this product - it doesn’t seem to be available anywhere. I have a trade account with Wolseley and they are a Danfoss stockist, and they don’t even have the product. Will concede that the product seems quite new if the Danfoss website is anything to go by, but the only result from google covering any stockist, is the RAS-C2, which is the valve sensor. The main valve type (B2) does not seem to be available anywhere to purchase individually or as an installer package. If you could post a link as to where you can obtain, then great. Otherwise, you’ve clearly got friends in high places and keeping the good stuff to yourself...just teasing us! No-one likes a tease James!
Hello.
I decided to fit these valves to my home and sadly it has not gone well.
The RAS B2 in it's present form only works on radiators with a max flow rate of 110 l/h which it does not mention in the paperwork.
I have gone through the APP and after checking all the radiators in my Daughters house of the 14, only seven will work with the valve fitted.
I have raised this with Danfoss and I am waiting for a reply.
They need to have a valve with a larger flow for bigger radiators.
Not quite the easy fix it should be.
Just thought I would make you aware.
Peter
Great use of tech ... just one problem ROI. Unless these are cheap and it's a DIY install it really is just tech for tech's sake. Might make a bit more sense in a large new build.
Great vid Jimmy, looks like it will out fox the lock shield fiddling fairies!
Names james not jimmy
I don't have LS valves for the fairies to fiddle with.
i'm missing something here; the pre-setting app just takes into account the radiators specs... how does it account for where radiators are positioned on the heating loop ie. which ones are farthest away from the boiler?
The valve automatically accounts for the fact the closer rads have a higher pressure and restricts them a bit more. The 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 all equate to set flow rates, independent of how far away they are from the pump. So as long as the pump is large enough for the system and can meet 10kPa at the further rad, you are golden. Also means as some rads satisfy and the TRVs close down the other balancing valves also restrict to meet a good return temp and maintain condensing and avoid overflow and low Delta-T.
Gee got 18 rads and was overwhelmed....at first but think I can get it sorted unless you fancy a free trip to Scotland 🏴🤪Roo
@@frys005 But what if the boiler needs a min flowrate ? Fit a ABV - which defeats the object of reduced flowrates around the main pipes.
I agree. The rad furthest but set the same as a closest? And if ubsay it dynamically adjusts flow rate, what happens when the boiler reduces or increases the flow rate???
They should make fully wifi enabled valves and every radiator is monitored at both valves to determine the temp drop across the rad and it could also determine which rads are first and last in the chain by checking which heat up first, so can then balance them automatically. If these were rolled out in new builds it would save a lot of energy in the long run and would save plumbers time, plus less headaches for the customer after removing rads for decorating.
would make them very expensive
The biggest problem, I think, would be to make them mechanically sound and durable. Instead of the extremely simple TRV construction, you would need a logic board, sensors, radio(s), an actuator, power supply etc. But price-wise I believe it would provide immense savings. Pending them staying operative over a longer timespan, there would be a whole lot of plumbers and heat technicians without a job. And heating efficiency would be through the roof for each individual system.
Yes, that would be true automation. They always develop things in tiny steps - probably to make people buy newer versions at every development stage!
And would make up for the fact that if you have TRV's you can't properly balance a system as the operation of the TRV's changes the dynamics of the system. So you balance the system with all valves open ,the system will only ever be in balance in that configuration. I've said this on other sites but was shot down because plumbers don't fully understand what they are doing when they balance a system. It worked years ago when you set you rad inlet and it stayed that way forever so your balance setup always worked
Hi great video, question can you add the Tado TRV heads onto the them?
I would like to give this a go - BUT need to know a few things to before I start?
Are the Danfoss RAS B2 Dynamic TRV's exactly the same size (as the Drayton TRV4's and Drayton Lock shields
fitted to your system, as there is no play in my pipes and radiators)? The only adjustment you made was to remove
an olive and reduce a copper pipe by a small amount (what brand and what tools did you use for these jobs)?
For others considering this change to Danfoss Auto Balancing valves, are all brands of TRV's and Lock shields made to a standard spec size and interchangeable, or will they all need some changeover fitting modifications?
Thanks for your inspiring videos!
Those danfoss dynamic trv's look good, but can they be combined with a Honeywell hr92 evohome head, or is it danfoss heads only ?
Clever piece of kit. Are these auto balancing TRVs only suitable for central heating systems that use a condencing boiler?
Should balancing not also take account of the distance from the boiler? As in, the further away the radiator from the boiler - the more open the flow?
What fan units are you using underneath your lounge radiator?
Have 3 stelrad wall hanging radiators attached to 1 thermostat in the main room, a 4th in that series a 3 column steel wall unit in my mud room , with a TRV . I just replaced my door in the mud room & it hits the valve as it passes 90* open, I want it to open fully, so want to move the valve to the left side of the rad. That will make the hot water in & out on the same side out of the way clear of the door. I really have no other choice without doing major reno on the space ... should inlet be on the bottom & TRV outlet on top ?
Red radiator looks cool
Hi Great video as always 1 question im doing my bungalow up and changing the rads one at a time
Do i have to do all the auto balancing trvs at once or can i do them one room at a time?
Cheers
From reading about this, you have to change all of your rads to make it work.
Also, there has been discussions I’ve read about checking your boiler pump is set correctly.
@@thepurplesband Hi There thats fine thank you for the reply and will do just that😊
Looks like a winner of a product however I can't find them anywhere online to purchase
For optimum performance these TRV's should be fitted on the return side of the radiator in the horizontal position (recommended by Danfoss) Reluctantly I took all my TRV's off,I had fitted them flow side vertical I refitted them as recommended,it really does make a noticeable difference.
Thanks for that as it then makes sense. This guy's an idiot but never mind !
Actually, I fitted my TRVs not only on the return but under the middle of the rad - in the air flow before it goes up the rad. Also, you don't need to balance rads when you use TRVs !
On a new install I always fit the trv horizontal. For existing vertical trvs I put pipe insulation on the pipe under the trv and a folded patch of airtec double between the valve and the rad
My Honeywell TRVs say they can be fitted to either end of rad, flow or return - because when you think about it they can reduce or increase the flow from either end of the rad - if the water cannot get out, then it stops more coming in and vice versa
I think horizontal fitment means they measure the room temp more accurately.
Enjoying your channel, I have recently moved into a bungalow and have replaced the old seized valves with Tado TRV's.
The system comprises a Baxi Duo-Tec combi boiler and 6 radiators, the feed and return from the boiler are 22mm which runs under the floor for about 2 meters it then goes into step-down joints to 8mm pipes which run to each radiator, imagine a star burst (looking online I believe it is called a point to point system).
The boiler is 8 years old and I think the pipework may be from when the bungalow was built in the mid 60's
How would I balance this type of system and can I add a new radiator off the 22mm pipe into 15mm as there is no radiator in the kitchen.
Hi I just have a stove to heat my rods would there be any good for that as the stove will be up and down thanks good video
Ordinary TRVs will do just a good a job !
Hi james just been looking on your store was hoping to find aplumbers parts t-sirt and a hoodie. Maybe something to look in too
He has merch he is wearing one of his tops in the video
Hi can this valve be put on flow and return? Or is it just flow?
Is it better to balance or put in an additional pump to the ch system
Where are these TRV's available ? Can't seem to find them!
Just added some valves like them always used speed 3 on the pump but now there no flow on the boiler so had to turn it down to 2. Any help
hi ,just found you , at start of video you have a red designer rad , I have 2 of these and need the mounting brackets do you know who stocks them? PS great video
Can you swap the Danfoss TRV out with another brand digital thermostat later on, but retain the balancing bit?
Why would you want to go 'digital' ?
How do you ensure you correctly identify the feed and return ends of each radiator to start with? My system I'm sure has the control valves (no TRV's yet - aim to do at next drain down) the wrong way e.g. degree of heat seems greater at the lock shield end. Apologies for what is probably a very basic question. I noted on your video the TRV was exchanged for the other end of the 400 x 400 radiator. Thank you.
Feed is hotter and return is colder?
Put TRVs on the return pipes.
Thank you for your confirmations 👍
TRVs (universal / bidirectional) now installed some on flow and some on return for ease and convenience after long period of drain down. Balanced in 'normal' fashion and all seems well after a few issues of cold rads etc. I still don't know the first to last rad on the circuit however to be totally sure of the best outcome. Cheers guys. 🍻
My plumber installed Danfoss valves with knob facing down in inflow side.
Do I have a problem?
found this video very informative and useful
Are these valves pressure dependent pressure independent ?
wow what a channel love it
Can you use the valve on either end as long as the arrow is in the correct direction?
Correct end is the return - no surprises there - according to others that could be bothered to read the instructions.
hi I have just fitted a vertical rad but I want to feed it from the top is it possible I fitted this week but only hot at the top help please from sunny Skeggy
On the front room rad at the bottom - what are the two rectangular boxes? Circulating fans?
Yeah, he's obviously fitted undersized rads and needs more heat out of them. He's done a vid on the fans.
We run rooms at different temperatures so what happens then?
They should make jobs well quick
Loved hearing the song recorded on the ale army
Ha! That was a late night and an early morning getting this up in time! Had to render the whole video in 3 segments then stitch it together and RENDER AGAIN.
Might smash up my computer today!
The original TRV was on the opposite side of the first rad?
We are moving to a house with the micro-bore system, do that make valves for that?
You just need a reducing fitting. Unless it's MB only at one end with a dip tube...
@@plumberparts Not sure, I will have to check? Thanks for getting back so quick 👍
@@BarryPaffey Danfoss do a 10mm variant.
Brilliant video as always. Any idea when these are coming out in the merchants?
These are available now, launched in Jan 2021 :-)
Hi again, James. What if the customer wants to turn up a room temporarily, say for a visitor, then readjust afterwards? No reference even for a relative position of the one preset!
So was the 1st and 2nd radiators original TRVs on the wrong side??
Hi, thanks for helping me to fit better product next time. You just follow app what number put on pre settings feature of the trv, It is just like Drayton rt212 with wax capsule and rt414 with liquid sensor which I normally fit and balance but none of the valves don't do anything automatically, but danfoss ras b2 make balancing little bit easier and gives more balance pressures through the heating system and I think it can help on system with variable temperature on heating system with external sensors. Anyway most people won't notice the installation is unbalanced, and 70/80% heating systems are anyway unbalanced, because it takes time to balance it. Regards
Brilliant idea and great video but I do wonder how many years it would take for the marginal Gas savings to cover the cost of the 14 valves I would need. Most users, unfortunately, don't understand thermostatic controls of any nature. The way most people use the Termostates controls of any type on all kinds of appliances and devices is to turn them up to a higher number to make things heat up faster. Generally this won't speed up the warm-up except for non-digital i.e. analogue devices like Temperature Controlled Valves take a couple of minutes to close as the temperature is reached but this has only a very marginal effect on the time from cold to the desired temperature.
Like 'heating engineers' that fail to understand that with TRVs, you don't need to 'balance' rads. I don't even have 'lockshield' valves on my system.
Can you buy these without the TRVs so I can add Tado TRVs instead. If not, any recommendations?
Hi, In the offical instructions it says best performance is acheived in the horizontal position on the return side, there was no mention in your video about this fact. Did you read the instruction sheet?
No, of course he didn't. Someone else mentions this. It explains why I thought what he was doing was wrong too.
I even fit TRVs on the return - for more accurate room temperature sensing.
what is the difference between the b2, c2 and d2?
Your rads ust be the most blinged up rads in the worlds with all the gizmos youve got on them.
Could I ask what you do (with these valves, and balancing the old fashioned way of measuring the temperature differential of the flow and return) when the system has automatically variable flow temperature from 30-75 oC?
I’ve never seen anyone mention this, just what to do with a fixed temperature. With say a 35oC flow temp, surely the settings for a 75oC will not work as the valve will be shut down too much?
Thanks mate really enjoy your videos ,very informative and fun to watch .
Keep them coming mate ,if you need an apprentice let me know lol.
Joking apart would love to tag along with you on some jobs
Flow rate is similar regardless of the water temperature.
Hi, I've just purchased these RAS-B2 dynamic radiator packs. However, when I go on the app I don't have any option for this model! Any ideas ??? Thank you.
Hey man been doing up my house and YOUR channel has been crucial for my success so far :) GREAT work bro... Wondering if you or ANYONE here could offer some advice... I already have underfloor heating system installed and I want to convert them to have TRV valves so I can use the Tado smart controllers on them ... how should I go about this? Is there a part upgrade I can do OR so I need a new manifold to do this? IF so which one. cheers mate... keep up the GREAT work.
There shouldn't be an issue fitting remote sensing TRVs to the circuit returns to the upstream side of the return manifold.
Question! How do you remove the old radiator tales I've found most are well corroded into radiator so not able to replace them with new tales, is there an easy way to remove them? Please!
Great video, just about to fit some new rads in my house, so timely vid. However downloaded the app, it does have the RAS-D2 valves on the drop down list, only RA-N, RA-UN, RA-DV or RLV-KDV, any ideas?
Can the smart trvs be used on these?
On the danfoss app, what rads do I select for tall column rads...?
If you turn them all upto max is it possible for them all to get warm?
That`s fantastic video
Hi mate great vids. I need advice. I have conventional tank heating system. I would like to do combi. Any advice or recommendation like brand etc and the cost roughly
My advice is to NOT do a combi! Have an unvented tank instead. You'll thank me for it!
@@plumberparts for what reason to not go combi ?
I would be interested in the answer to this question, since most plumbers are fittings combi's these days
@plumberparts looking forward to your advice on this ! :)
@@plumberparts a video on this would be great for us diy'ers
What are the two port and three port valves? Also, do I need to drain the feed tank in the loft in a vented system through that drain at the bottom on the radiator? I do have a leaver to isolate the tank in the loft from feeding the radiators so assume I can leave the feed tank in the loft isolated and full and do this job?
Yeah, leave the tank full and turn off the supply to the system. What did he say about 2&3 port valves ?
Brilliant!!!! Thanks for sharing
Hi, just watched your video. I know it's a year ago but when I look on your shop you don't sell B2 dynamic valves, are C2 tge sane as what you describe in the video????
Do you also need to fit these valves on the last radiator in the loop(feed-return)? What happen when all the thermostatic heads closes? It is also necessary to install a bypass valve near the boiler?
Just use normal TRVs - they'll 'balance' the rads - leave lockshields fully open.
Check boiler manual installation guide to see if boiler needs ABV.
i deffo be using those however how do we know which is the flow and return?
The flow will already have a Thermostatic valve on it
@@jstheplumber5264 not all the time as many TRV are bi directional
The pipe that gets hot first is flow.
Do you have aluminium radiators because of their look or are they more efficient?
Yep these are Ally. They're great and also a LOT lighter! But they do have a steeper heat curve.
@@plumberparts How many months do they run before leaking and disintegrating all over the carpet ?
Does any1 know what are the best radiators to install in wet areas to avoid rusting or flaking paint?We upgraded our Heating System in 2015 frm gravity fed to mains with a Worcester Bosch Condensing Boiler but our Plumber fitted cheaper rads & rads in high humidity areas all the paint has started flaking off at the bottoms of all rads in these areas?
Another great video, silly question tho.. for example if you have a 600x1000 rad placed right next to the boiler (nicking a lot of flow) and the app suggests setting it to say ‘6’ and then another 600x1000 rad at the furthest end in the house will the app still suggest setting to ‘6’ ? Do you have to tell the app where the rads are in relation to the boiler?
The valve automatically accounts for the fact the closer rads have a higher pressure and restricts them a bit more. The 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 all equate to set flow rates, independent of how far away they are from the pump. So as long as the pump is large enough for the system and can meet 10kPa at the further rad, you are golden. Also means as some rads satisfy and the TRVs close down the other balancing valves also restrict to meet a good return temp and maintain condensing and avoid overflow and low Delta-T.
Near read will heat room quicker and TRV on it will close quicker - doing all the rad balancing you ever need without the use of these over-complex valves !
4:20 "We're going to leave the lockshields fully open which seems foreign"
Ain't got any on my heating system !
Not seeing if on your Amazon store PS love your videos David
Fantastic video and fantastic product however you didn't say whether or not you have to adjust the lock shields after installing those TRV's, did you?
Lockshields are left fully open with these valves.
where are u best and what do u charge to do this job
What happens in the room where the room thermostat eg. Hive is located where trvs wouldn’t normally be used? Can the b2 trv head be locked full-on or is there a blanking cap that can be used? (So you don’t see the bright green bit and the pin sticking out)
Room temp is controlled by the TRVs not the Hive. It sounds like your system has been designed by some clueless fu**er.
I'm assuming you already knew the Drayton TRV4 units you removed have the very same system?
Granted they don't seem to have the same app that makes one hell of a difference
The drayton TRV4 has a presetting function, but does not dynamically adjust the flow when other radiators in the system shut down - you still get overflow when system is at partial load with TRV4.
@@agtqrs holly hell I didn't catch the bit about it affectively being a PI-TRV on older systems with uncontrolled pumps this would save hours and massive amounts of money
Sorry to be thick, isn't this just using a little more science to set the lock shield in relation to the rad size. Not sure a retro change just the have these, warrants the amount of work involved, fine for new installs. I agree it might make the plumber look a little more professional. Thanks as ever for the weekly education. My mates often ask me how I know so much about plumbing!
Spot on mate, its just a numbered lockshield coupled with a TRV so you get a better idea of how "open" the valve is.
Not really worth retro fitting but maybe worth a punt on a fresh install.....
Who needs LS valves in any case ? Not needed with TRVs !
Balancing a system depends on how far away each radiator is from the pump right? So how can these work? I.e. if I have 2 rads the same and I set the balancing nut to 2 on both, but 1 rad is the first on the system and rad 2 is the last (e.g. 9th) on the system, the system will not be balanced??!!
Can't find this product anywhere
Is it illegal for Apartment owner to put some kind device to control the heating at times of day? I have noticed after they installed some kind of 3 x 2 inch box to our radiators, at night time when they assume most people go to sleep and are under covers in their beds radiators across all the room start dropping temperatures next to nothing. What should i do? Can i report this to health department?
It's a nice system
How do you know which is the flow and return? I know one side gets hotter than the other but if your trying to check say six radiators all at once how do you do that quickly before they all heat up..?
Same question from me
Turn all radiators off except one then check that radiator then move onto next one turn on check that and so on.. If the flow is on the right side of one chances are it will be the same with them all
@@kennethhogan9115 Obvious now why didn't I think of that
@@malcb1864 ha overthinking it probably, you should have time to go around and check without doing this radiators usually take at least 15-20 minutes to heat fully
If you install the TRV on top of the rad. and return down will be more effective and much hotter then normal installation.
Fit TRVs to the return from the bottom of the rad.
What should we do when we turn the heating back on after being off all summer? We moved into our house at the beginning of summer so we’ve never had the heating on but we did turn it on to check it works, no radiators in the house got hot only very mildly warm.
Talk to someone who knows stuff !
Great video. Liked & subscribed.
Have not got a condensing boiler
Anyone know if these are compatible with digital trvs like Tado?
Thanks!
A link where we can find them please?
If i strangle a radiator with my locksheilds, even slightly, it starts to make the radiator noisey restriction gushing noise..any way round this i am guessing not ?
Yes! You need to change the pump to a modulating type. Think I've got one in the Shop here: amzn.to/3lyT3Fp GOOD LUCK BRUV!
@@plumberparts aww thanks mate for the reply, that is really appreciated ! i'll take a look thanks again :)
What if you have a combi with built in pump?
@@anthonys555 most modern combi's will be ERP models (modulating pumps)
Too much pressure from the pump mate. Turn it down a notch or two or fit and set an automatic bypass to stop the noise if not installed already. This is not for a combi as it’s probably got one already built in. On some boilers models the bypass is adjustable but you would need to remove the case in which case you would have to be gas safe registered if the case is part of the combustion seal.
how do you no your FLOW TEMP RETURN temp DEFFERENTIAL PRESSURE somebody please help its a logic ideal 30 plus combi boiler i am using danfoss b-2 ras
Is it a myth that you don't put TRV's in the room with the thermostat.
Hopefully they'll do a service kit...
Anybody know where these can be sourced, tried PP Amazon store also Googled but no joy?
Did you get the exact same temperature on all the rads? Really informative video....looks like a plan
What sort of a stupid question is that ?
Hopefully all the rads are different temperatures depending on how much heating is required in each room.
I can’t seem to find ras-b2 anywhere forsale? Where can I find some?
These should be available from all good plumbers merchants - if you google Danfoss RAS-B2 you can find product codes etc
@@agtqrs when I have looked online, including my local merchants I only get the option for RAS-C2/ RAS-D2
loving it m8!
Great video and the product looks great. I don't know which radiators in my house heat up first so I would think this product would solve that problem but can't find to buy it anywhere even on your amazon page
Sounds like you don't need them then !
mystery solved - thanks
I though you should always put the TRV parallel to the rad and not vertiucal as you have. The heat of the rad influnces the TRV in the vertkla position.
read instructions vertical flow side , horizontal return side
All our rads are hot except for one, stays cold at the top! Bled all the air out and the pressure is ok (not sure if that makes a difference) but still cold at the top, any ideas?
Forgot to mention it’s the closest one to the boiler
Still got air in it ? Did you get water coming out of the top of the rad at the bleed screw ?
@@millomweb I believe all the air is out as had a steady flow of water coming out. It’s weird because it’s the rad closest to the boiler.
@@murtmtb3284 But that doesn't mean new air hasn't arrived into the rad !
The first rad in the system is usually the one that collects all the air. One option is to add an automatic air vent to the top of the rad.
I designed my system to remove all air before the first rad.
I got a problem trying to balance a tall column rad. It's strangled quite a bit atm, if I turn it up you can hear the boiler constantly throttling up and down, any ideas?
Could be upside down. Some have a marking on it to show which way is up. There is a baffle on some to direct water up to top.
@@alexlangheld gulp! Haha. I did notice the hot water was going straight through the bottom so I fitted an aftet market baffle. Hadn't considered one might of been in the top!
The fkn dandruff advert half way through was more exiting 👍😂
HELLO JUST BOUGHT THE RAS-B2 TO FIT ON ALL MY RADS WHEN I JUST CAME TO A PROBBLEM WITH THE ONE RAD ITS A T22 600/1400 ITS SAYS ON THE APP THE VAUE CANNOT PROVIDE THE FLOW NEEDED PLEASE CHANGE SYSTEM AND OR RADIATOR PROPERTIES MY SETUP IS FLOW TEMP 70c RETURN 55c DEFFERENTIAL PRESSURE IS 10KPA CAN YOU HELP PLEASE
ITS A KUDOX RAD
ITS A LOGIC IDEAL 30 IVE SET IT TO 72C RETURN INSTEAD OF 70C IT READS THE RAD IS THIS OK IAM NOT A PLUMBER