First, let me say, after watching several submissions of similar videos, this one is the ONE. It's perfect. Tells you in a super orderly manner everything you need to know. Thank you so much for making such a great video -One tip for anyone that wants it - grab a scrap piece of cardboard and poke the screws through as you go. You can line them up in order and reverse the order so you know where each screw went. 2nd - If you're tight on funds and feel unable to pull this repair off: I ended up taking the easy way out, and I'm having decent results so far. My heater core was 100% leaking. I decided to roll the dice with K-Seal. BUT!!! My concern was (and is still): will it gum up the system? - But to try to help mitigate that possibility - I drained the coolant & flushed it out with hose water. Then I filled with water and Prestone coolant system cleaner. Ran that for a bit. Drained that out and replaced with K-Seal Coolant Leak Repair, Distilled water & concentrated Zerex G05 coolant. I found another video that talks about the water still in the system, so they suggested a 75%-25% concentrate to water mix, since it's going to get diluted by the remaining water. After running the truck last night and this morning, it seems to have eliminated the leak. No more greasy fogging of the windows or sweet chemical smell of coolant in the cab. My hope is that by removing additional sediment, I reduce the likelihood that the sealant will clog in an unwanted fashion. I'll report back and take my public shaming if it goes sideways on me, but I've read quite a few reviews of long term success.
Update: 4 months later and the leak is back. I think Kseal did fine, but I have a feeling that the heater core was failing in multiple spots and it's more than a simple cheap fix. I'll be biting the bullet and taking on the replacement. Again, thanks for the video. I plan on watching and typing out each step to make myself an orderly checklist.
When I heard the price to get mine fixed, I said no way, I’ll do it myself. So I’m here watching this. I thank you for helping me decide to pay the shop, tip them…get them lunch and beer lol. Just too much work for me. Very good and detailed video though. Thumb up!
My man, you have no idea how much this video is gonna help me tomorrow. i have to do the same thing for a customer's f-150. great video thank you very much!!!
I think I'm in need of replacing my 2012 F150 5.0 heater core. Starting to smell coolant inside the cab. Saved this vid to make sure I know where all the bolts are. Great job on the video and thanks for doing this. It will save me some headache for sure.
I was thinking I might need to do this repair, and I read your title "13 minute heater core replacement" and thought heck yeah it's a quick fix. Not so much lol. Great video, though.
Thanks for this man, just the right amount of detail, no filler. Got everything right the first time thanks to you. My 2010 f150 fx2 4.6 heater core was leaking. I had to remove my evap lines to get the new one in without damaging it, but other than that i followed along, and then did it backwards with no issues. If anyone is looking for the right video, this one is it. I'd say 4 hours total labor time, but I'm experienced with mechanic work. Again thanks for this
How difficult was it to remove your evap lines? I'm in the same boat right now. I actually had to cut the hardlines on the old heater core to get it out, but I can't get the big black plastic assembly to move enough to get the new one in. I'm like an inch short. That stupid little evap elbow is what's keeping me from getting enough room. Quite frustrated right now lol
@@VoxTrek There should be a small block that attaches both evap lines to the firewall, a bolt runs through the middle. You will have to properly purge your evap lines before you take that block off. DO NOT remove that block if you haven't purged the lines
@@Theotherdroidman thanks! I was afraid of that. Kinda difficult to take my truck to a shop with the dash off to get the Freon purged. I’ll have to figure something out. Might be worth it to have it towed rather than putting everything back together and having to take it apart again.
@@VoxTrek not to mention once you purge the system you will need a vacuum pump and a set of guages ans the correct setup to be able to recharge your system
Alright. I now understand why replacing a heater core on a 2014 F150 XLT 5.0 is expensive. Even if I had 1/10th of the mechanical skills you just showed, there's no way I would attempt this. Darn it! Thank you for this. I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and have a pro do the job. New subscriber!!!
It really is incredible that after decades of this design, manufacturers haven’t figured out a way to make an access panel from the firewall. I cursed ford when I did this on a Ranger years ago and now I’ll be cursing ford on my F150 this weekend.
what are you doing about the "quick connects"? I have an 06 with a 5.4. the replacement core seems to have different nipples than the OEM. I pulled the hose and I'm not sure I can move the white clips from the OEM to the replacement. so, I'm stuck until I figure that out.
Took me 7hrs to take dash out.. the vaporizer is a pain.. Thrn I broke the main hose.which is a dealer item only.. FML.. Local shop quoted me $1400😵💫thanks for the video. 2008 F-150 HARLEY DAVISON🗽
Long Post Alert: I'm hoping this helps folks and Feel free to Correct anything I missed or called by the wrong name. Maybe you can copy/paste/print these steps to go along with the video while you work on it: Heater Core Replacement - 2010 Ford F150 1. remove center console a. 3 bolts on passenger side (1 black, 2 silver) 5/16 or 8mm b. 3 bolts on Driver’s side c. 2 bolt on back of center console. 1 each on D & P side (slide seat forward for better access) d. Unclip trim around shifter, remove and take out 2 bolts towards front below stereo/air controls e. Unhook Shifter - Power connection on Passenger side f. 4 bolts holding shifter in place so you can access the shifter cable g. Once loose, unclip connection with screwdriver (clip is towards the front) “Push in & lift up to loosen the cable then pop it off the edge” a little further back 2. With Console out of the way: a. 2 middle/front bolts b. Remove dash - side trim pieces to access and remove bolts at the Driver’s & Passengers dash/door area - 13mm c. Middle floor area - loosen and remove bolts so you can slide the collar looking piece back. d. Bolts wheredefrost vents are basically - 1 Pass, 2 drivers side - 6” extension w 13mm e. Look for any electrical connections that might need to unclip f. If the door molding is blocking, just pop it off temporarily & remove the side interior trim on driver’s side/floor area 3. Steering Column: a. Make sure it’s straight ahead b. Unhook battery connection c. Remove 7mm bolts holding panel under steering wheel d. Remove 8 mm bolts under the panel you just removed e. 7/32 bolts for cover below steering column f. Unclip the electrical connections g. Remove 4x 13mm bolts holding steering column & 1 more further back in the middle 10mm h. Unhook the sensor that’s back there near the 10mm steering column bolt i. Slide the steering column back and rest on driver’s seat. Do not spin steering wheel, you’ll break the clock spring. 4. Dash Harness stuff: a. Unhook throttle pedal cable b. Unhook brake pedal cable 5. A pillars - remove to get to hidden 13mm bolt on driver’s side towards the front corner a. Drivers side can just unclip, Passenger side - 2x 7mm bolts hold the Oh Heck handle b. No 13mm bolt on Passenger side. Dash should feel loose - time to make sure you disconnect wiring so that you can swing the dash out far enough on the passenger side to access the HC. 6. Final steps to loosen - emergency brake cable release & any cable clips holding cables that restrict movement. 7. Heater Core removal - a. Engine compartment side - 3 bolts - 2 above and one fairly far down below the HC lines that are entering dash b. Cabin side - access lines by removing 5 bolts holding a plastic piece blocking heater lines. c. Cut a slit in the rubber to allow removal of heater lines d. Once you remove the heater core, unclip the lines, and then clip them in to the new one. 8. Put it all back in reverse!
@@Boostismyfriend got it done but not sure if my new aftermarket blend door actuator calibrated correct. seems door isn’t shutting of heat completely. can actuator be clocked wrong or will it correct? was about a tooth off when i dropped it in. maybe a reset some how? thx paul
great video so far. I just removed the console and want to loosen that t plate but I have a rug in the way. Do you recommend cutting a slit or maybe a "X" over the heads of the bolts
I'm digging the mix of content not pigeon holing yourself is smart I think ..bit late today up till three watching sick week ..but ready to do it all again ..I can't work ATM shoulder an all so sick week all week ...
I am ready for racing, these how to are not really for the usual people its to get out in the Algorhythm and make money year round like my other few heater core video’s i have made
@@Boostismyfriend yeah there been cool .we don't have pick an pull like we did years ago now you go to the wreckers order like a parts store sucks I loved it as a kid an teenager getting you're own parts was cool ..
Good news getting my air bag warning light resolved. Maybe this will save others some headaches. Cock spring turned out OK. Turns out I didn't push the big blue and big gray plugs all the way into the locking position. Once I discovered that, all was cured. Those plugs are on the passenger side. Can be seen once the glove box is opened all the way. On the right side of the glove box. The warning light apparently was referring to the passenger air bag.
Thanks for the video very nice helped out a ton. But i have unhooked a connection and that goes to the cluster and the fwd not sure what else but neither one is working now and i cant figure out whats going on. Could you help me?
Great video, I got it all the down to put the heater core back in and I can't seem to pry the air box far enough back to get the core lines back through the fire wall. Am I missing something?
Having big trouble trying to get the bolts off to drop the steering column, stripping them. I had already taken the bolt behind it off thinking I might have to rebolt that to take weight back off. Also 09 has gear shift on the steering wheel not on console so you don't mess with console but a few different disconnects in the column.
@@Boostismyfriend great video BTW. Im just going to wait for the EVAP or heater core to go before I dig into this project. I did save your video though for future reference
Great video. I am having issues getting enough clearance to get the heater core out. At around 12:45 you mention prying it back enough to get clearance to get it out. Did you have to actually pry the case back to get the clearance?
How do I know if I have a bad heater core? No beat blowing in my cab but creaking and groaning when I turn temp control. Have it narrowed down to this or blend door actuator….
I damaged one of the metal tube of the heat core that connects to the quick connect hose ,with pliers .There is little dip ,not 100% round (the front part) ,if this will leak is there a solution ? some kinda bando that would hold up?
Very helpful, but my evaporator core is the problem. May do the heater core too. A ford one is $60. Its an 11 6.2L with 190K. Looks the same as that. I think I am going to get long bolts (5") for the left side bracket that can screw in and support the dash on the pass seat cause I don't have a helper. Then I can angle the dash out.
Thanks for the help. I now have heat back in my Ford just in time. One problem, I now have the driver air bag warning on my dash. Please tell me it's a simple plug I neglected to plug back. Thought I'd ask before redoing all those under the dash yoga positions. Thx in advance,,,,,
I have a leak might be coming from the connection to the heater core not sure I see antifreeze falling off the transmission mount and sitting at the bottoms of the pan have yellow antifreeze and it’s yellow
Well I seen your great video sir. But I am a o k. I’ll just buy me a new truck. Dammmmmm this is difficult. Congratulations 🎉🍾🎈🎊 on your success on mechanical engineering in vehicles. Were do I send you an 18 pack of coors
Did this on a 2010 and everything worked great but my front turn signals aren’t working after i put everything back together and the rears flash really fast!
Who thought putting an obvious wear component like the heater core buried behind the dash was a good idea? I'm no mechanic but it seems it could have been mounted in the engine compartment - but that's just me. Now it's time to spend $1300+ - thank you Ford designers.
Has anyone else had issues removing the air box? I got the three engine compartment bolts and two in the cab and am still struggling to get the air box out.
The bolts are out but the tubes for the evaporator core keeps pulling it back. Even took the bottom bolt all the way out. Makes me nervous to pull that hard on those tubes. The heater core is also kind of stuck so that doesn’t help. Do you just pull straight out or push the heater core tubes out and to the right?
I suspect my heater core is leaking/cracked in my 2014 f150 because there is a slight coolant smell and there is coolant leaking just forward of the driver's side door (behind the front driver's side mud flap) outside...nothing leaking inside. Most of what i have researched online lead me to believe this is the culprit of the leak. I am pretty handy with tools, but by no means a certified mechanic! So i thought "hey...you can do this...seems an easy fix". But after watching this video I'm like...."F**K THAT!!!" I will just pay someone else to do it! lol!!
@@Boostismyfriend naaaahhhh...im a bit adhd so my attention span wouldnt be able to get past the 4th bolt. i would forget what da hell i was supposed to be doing! lol
Im still wondering why as advanced as the automotive industry has become....why are we still using heater cores from the enginge block for heat....whats wrong with a simple heating element on a thermostat in a housing with a fan blowing on it...
I need mine replaced. Where is your shop located, I'm in Texas??? PS. I like your hourly rates sign in the background, takes care of all them know-it-alls.
If I were gon replace the heater core I would replace all evap dryer and a/c stuff as well. If you're in there you're in there. The parts arent that xpensive but the labor is.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
First, let me say, after watching several submissions of similar videos, this one is the ONE. It's perfect. Tells you in a super orderly manner everything you need to know. Thank you so much for making such a great video
-One tip for anyone that wants it - grab a scrap piece of cardboard and poke the screws through as you go. You can line them up in order and reverse the order so you know where each screw went.
2nd - If you're tight on funds and feel unable to pull this repair off: I ended up taking the easy way out, and I'm having decent results so far. My heater core was 100% leaking. I decided to roll the dice with K-Seal. BUT!!! My concern was (and is still): will it gum up the system? - But to try to help mitigate that possibility - I drained the coolant & flushed it out with hose water. Then I filled with water and Prestone coolant system cleaner. Ran that for a bit. Drained that out and replaced with K-Seal Coolant Leak Repair, Distilled water & concentrated Zerex G05 coolant. I found another video that talks about the water still in the system, so they suggested a 75%-25% concentrate to water mix, since it's going to get diluted by the remaining water. After running the truck last night and this morning, it seems to have eliminated the leak. No more greasy fogging of the windows or sweet chemical smell of coolant in the cab.
My hope is that by removing additional sediment, I reduce the likelihood that the sealant will clog in an unwanted fashion. I'll report back and take my public shaming if it goes sideways on me, but I've read quite a few reviews of long term success.
Appreciate you watching, nothing wrong that as long as it worked for you
Update: 4 months later and the leak is back. I think Kseal did fine, but I have a feeling that the heater core was failing in multiple spots and it's more than a simple cheap fix. I'll be biting the bullet and taking on the replacement. Again, thanks for the video. I plan on watching and typing out each step to make myself an orderly checklist.
@swandiedrich 👍
The quality of the video is amazing. 99% bolt by bolt, connector by connector. Perfect length, you should charge for these. Excellent work!
Appreciate it
When I heard the price to get mine fixed, I said no way, I’ll do it myself. So I’m here watching this. I thank you for helping me decide to pay the shop, tip them…get them lunch and beer lol. Just too much work for me. Very good and detailed video though. Thumb up!
@@SirVivalDotKom 👍
My man, you have no idea how much this video is gonna help me tomorrow. i have to do the same thing for a customer's f-150. great video thank you very much!!!
Awesome
I think I'm in need of replacing my 2012 F150 5.0 heater core. Starting to smell coolant inside the cab. Saved this vid to make sure I know where all the bolts are. Great job on the video and thanks for doing this. It will save me some headache for sure.
Appreciate you
From one mechanic to another I tip my hat to you sir, thank you.
👍
I was thinking I might need to do this repair, and I read your title "13 minute heater core replacement" and thought heck yeah it's a quick fix. Not so much lol. Great video, though.
Thanks
Man this video made me want to change the heater core... I will let you know how it goes. Lol awesome content
Thanks for this man, just the right amount of detail, no filler. Got everything right the first time thanks to you. My 2010 f150 fx2 4.6 heater core was leaking. I had to remove my evap lines to get the new one in without damaging it, but other than that i followed along, and then did it backwards with no issues. If anyone is looking for the right video, this one is it. I'd say 4 hours total labor time, but I'm experienced with mechanic work. Again thanks for this
Awesome
How difficult was it to remove your evap lines? I'm in the same boat right now. I actually had to cut the hardlines on the old heater core to get it out, but I can't get the big black plastic assembly to move enough to get the new one in. I'm like an inch short. That stupid little evap elbow is what's keeping me from getting enough room. Quite frustrated right now lol
@@VoxTrek There should be a small block that attaches both evap lines to the firewall, a bolt runs through the middle. You will have to properly purge your evap lines before you take that block off. DO NOT remove that block if you haven't purged the lines
@@Theotherdroidman thanks! I was afraid of that. Kinda difficult to take my truck to a shop with the dash off to get the Freon purged. I’ll have to figure something out. Might be worth it to have it towed rather than putting everything back together and having to take it apart again.
@@VoxTrek not to mention once you purge the system you will need a vacuum pump and a set of guages ans the correct setup to be able to recharge your system
Alright. I now understand why replacing a heater core on a 2014 F150 XLT 5.0 is expensive. Even if I had 1/10th of the mechanical skills you just showed, there's no way I would attempt this. Darn it! Thank you for this. I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and have a pro do the job. New subscriber!!!
@@C_MR_WYld307 appreciate you
Cool, you convinced me to not attempt this and to possibly sell the truck. Good video!
@@Branhawk 👍
Perfect video for this job. I did the change with no problems.
@@danieldraper6419 awesome
Grate job. I couldn't have got this out and back in without this video
Thanks
It really is incredible that after decades of this design, manufacturers haven’t figured out a way to make an access panel from the firewall. I cursed ford when I did this on a Ranger years ago and now I’ll be cursing ford on my F150 this weekend.
@@bradi8548 yep
I'll never buy another f****** Ford
Good ole f150 heater core. Done bout 50 of them lol. Got one in shop now bout to start on today. Good video for the diy guys though for sure
Awesome
what are you doing about the "quick connects"? I have an 06 with a 5.4. the replacement core seems to have different nipples than the OEM. I pulled the hose and I'm not sure I can move the white clips from the OEM to the replacement. so, I'm stuck until I figure that out.
Push and squeeze the ears then pull it
@@Boostismyfriend I can get the hose off. I'm trying to get the white clips off of the core nipples to put on the new core.
These videos are awesome and I’m sure they will help ppl. Thank you for doing them! I know it takes time and makes it take longer to do your job
Thanks
Your is the best information I seen...thanks!!
Your welcome
awesome video! I always like to see how other people do jobs, this will definitely save me some time. Thanks for the great content!
I appreciate you
Took me 7hrs to take dash out.. the vaporizer is a pain.. Thrn I broke the main hose.which is a dealer item only.. FML.. Local shop quoted me $1400😵💫thanks for the video. 2008 F-150 HARLEY DAVISON🗽
👍
Long Post Alert: I'm hoping this helps folks and Feel free to Correct anything I missed or called by the wrong name. Maybe you can copy/paste/print these steps to go along with the video while you work on it:
Heater Core Replacement - 2010 Ford F150
1. remove center console
a. 3 bolts on passenger side (1 black, 2 silver) 5/16 or 8mm
b. 3 bolts on Driver’s side
c. 2 bolt on back of center console. 1 each on D & P side (slide seat forward for better access)
d. Unclip trim around shifter, remove and take out 2 bolts towards front below stereo/air controls
e. Unhook Shifter - Power connection on Passenger side
f. 4 bolts holding shifter in place so you can access the shifter cable
g. Once loose, unclip connection with screwdriver (clip is towards the front) “Push in & lift up to loosen the cable then pop it off the edge” a little further back
2. With Console out of the way:
a. 2 middle/front bolts
b. Remove dash - side trim pieces to access and remove bolts at the Driver’s & Passengers dash/door area - 13mm
c. Middle floor area - loosen and remove bolts so you can slide the collar looking piece back.
d. Bolts wheredefrost vents are basically - 1 Pass, 2 drivers side - 6” extension w 13mm
e. Look for any electrical connections that might need to unclip
f. If the door molding is blocking, just pop it off temporarily & remove the side interior trim on driver’s side/floor area
3. Steering Column:
a. Make sure it’s straight ahead
b. Unhook battery connection
c. Remove 7mm bolts holding panel under steering wheel
d. Remove 8 mm bolts under the panel you just removed
e. 7/32 bolts for cover below steering column
f. Unclip the electrical connections
g. Remove 4x 13mm bolts holding steering column & 1 more further back in the middle 10mm
h. Unhook the sensor that’s back there near the 10mm steering column bolt
i. Slide the steering column back and rest on driver’s seat. Do not spin steering wheel, you’ll break the clock spring.
4. Dash Harness stuff:
a. Unhook throttle pedal cable
b. Unhook brake pedal cable
5. A pillars - remove to get to hidden 13mm bolt on driver’s side towards the front corner
a. Drivers side can just unclip, Passenger side - 2x 7mm bolts hold the Oh Heck handle
b. No 13mm bolt on Passenger side. Dash should feel loose - time to make sure you disconnect wiring so that you can swing the dash out far enough on the passenger side to access the HC.
6. Final steps to loosen - emergency brake cable release & any cable clips holding cables that restrict movement.
7. Heater Core removal -
a. Engine compartment side - 3 bolts - 2 above and one fairly far down below the HC lines that are entering dash
b. Cabin side - access lines by removing 5 bolts holding a plastic piece blocking heater lines.
c. Cut a slit in the rubber to allow removal of heater lines
d. Once you remove the heater core, unclip the lines, and then clip them in to the new one.
8. Put it all back in reverse!
@@swandiedrich 👍
your good teacher bra! keep it up, best vid ive come across, thx
Appreciate it
@@Boostismyfriend got it done but not sure if my new aftermarket blend door actuator calibrated correct. seems door isn’t shutting of heat completely. can actuator be clocked wrong or will it correct? was about a tooth off when i dropped it in. maybe a reset some how? thx paul
@@paulbryant68 there is no reset
great video so far. I just removed the console and want to loosen that t plate but I have a rug in the way. Do you recommend cutting a slit or maybe a "X" over the heads of the bolts
If it makes it easier and dont bother you then why not lol
doing the same on a customer vehicle thanks for the tips! should be smooth sailing!
Awesome
I'm digging the mix of content not pigeon holing yourself is smart I think ..bit late today up till three watching sick week ..but ready to do it all again ..I can't work ATM shoulder an all so sick week all week ...
I am ready for racing, these how to are not really for the usual people its to get out in the Algorhythm and make money year round like my other few heater core video’s i have made
@@Boostismyfriend yeah there been cool .we don't have pick an pull like we did years ago now you go to the wreckers order like a parts store sucks I loved it as a kid an teenager getting you're own parts was cool ..
Good news getting my air bag warning light resolved. Maybe this will save others some headaches. Cock spring turned out OK.
Turns out I didn't push the big blue and big gray plugs all the way into the locking position.
Once I discovered that, all was cured.
Those plugs are on the passenger side. Can be seen once the glove box is opened all the way. On the right side of the glove box. The warning light apparently was referring to the passenger air bag.
👍
Thanks for the video very nice helped out a ton. But i have unhooked a connection and that goes to the cluster and the fwd not sure what else but neither one is working now and i cant figure out whats going on. Could you help me?
Did you get it?
No I can’t figure out what I left unplugged I have looked all under the dash and checked fuses
@ does everything work, sometimes you will have a spare plug for a factory option you might not have in that model
Great video, I got it all the down to put the heater core back in and I can't seem to pry the air box far enough back to get the core lines back through the fire wall. Am I missing something?
You can get them, super tight but they will come out
Great video, very easy to follow!
Thanks I appreciate you watching
Great information video as always Sammy, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks
You always have amazing content God bless
Thanks
Having big trouble trying to get the bolts off to drop the steering column, stripping them. I had already taken the bolt behind it off thinking I might have to rebolt that to take weight back off.
Also 09 has gear shift on the steering wheel not on console so you don't mess with console but a few different disconnects in the column.
Damn, might have to beat a smaller socket on it
Great video very helpful thank you!
Awesome
Ty bro. You’re a Lifesaver
👍
this video just made me realize that I don't need to fix the recirculation for my AC lol.
Lol
@@Boostismyfriend great video BTW. Im just going to wait for the EVAP or heater core to go before I dig into this project. I did save your video though for future reference
@@knd266 appreciate it
If mine goes out of I’ll be bringing it your way buddy because thst was like 13 hours LoL 😂
Lol, i round tripped this one today 4 1/2
@@Boostismyfriend you a bad man
I got one you can do... this is a stary friday evening that will end sunday sometime for me.. this looks like a mother f#@ker
Great video.
I am having issues getting enough clearance to get the heater core out. At around 12:45 you mention prying it back enough to get clearance to get it out. Did you have to actually pry the case back to get the clearance?
Yes, if you pry back on it, you can get just enough room to slide it out with out having to unhook the a/c
Do you think it can be done without removing the steering wheel?
Removing the column makes it easier to handle
Aiight now...good content. Hella job 👍💪
Thanks
How do I know if I have a bad heater core? No beat blowing in my cab but creaking and groaning when I turn temp control. Have it narrowed down to this or blend door actuator….
Feel the heater hoses and see if there both warm once the engine is at temp
I damaged one of the metal tube of the heat core that connects to the quick connect hose ,with pliers .There is little dip ,not 100% round (the front part) ,if this will leak is there a solution ? some kinda bando that would hold up?
Sleeve the hose over it and clamp it with out the quick connect
@@Boostismyfriend Why I didnt think of it ? :) thank you
Very helpful, but my evaporator core is the problem. May do the heater core too. A ford one is $60. Its an 11 6.2L with 190K. Looks the same as that. I think I am going to get long bolts (5") for the left side bracket that can screw in and support the dash on the pass seat cause I don't have a helper. Then I can angle the dash out.
👍
Thanks for the help. I now have heat back in my Ford just in time. One problem, I now have the driver air bag warning on my dash. Please tell me it's a simple plug I neglected to plug back.
Thought I'd ask before redoing all those under the dash yoga positions. Thx in advance,,,,,
Hopefully its one of the yellow wire plugs, if not you probably turnt the wheel and it broke the clock spring
Good I'll look for yellow wires. Hope I didn't mess up the clock spring. I duct taped it more than double...
Thx again. @@Boostismyfriend
is the column removal the same with column shifter? assuming since all once piece is it.
Yea, you just have to pop the cable loose
@@Boostismyfriend appreciate it!
Right to the point 👍
👍
man sammy i didnt realize you had to tear a truck apart to replace a htr. core
Yep
great video. I sure hope this is not what is going on with my daughters truck. it is freezing cold outside.. no garage to work in.. ugh.
Hopefully not
My radio stopped powering up after doing this, any suggestions to why? Fuses and wiring look fine.
Check all the grounds
I don't have a center console in mine, should make the job a bit easier yeah?
Yep
Where are you located and how much do you charge to replace
Lincolnton, Nc $750
Hey man i gat wire connect to my steering column and i dont see it on your could you help me out
Where does it attach
I have a leak might be coming from the connection to the heater core not sure I see antifreeze falling off the transmission mount and sitting at the bottoms of the pan have yellow antifreeze and it’s yellow
Those connections are bad about leaking, you can replace them
Man that a pain in the a$$!!! My 97 is acting up, i gotta do this!!!
Damn
@@Boostismyfriend i could try and do it or pay $600-700 to have it done!!!
Geeet video I would of bought a impact gun with a 90 “ chuck to make the work much easier
👍
How long does a job like this take to complete?
5-6 hours depending on your mechanic ability
Thanks
@@JoseGonzalez-io7wm appreciate you watching
Well I seen your great video sir. But I am a o k. I’ll just buy me a new truck. Dammmmmm this is difficult. Congratulations 🎉🍾🎈🎊 on your success on mechanical engineering in vehicles. Were do I send you an 18 pack of coors
Lol
Great instructions. Hope I don’t have this problem lol
Thanks
How much do you charge to do that ?
$750
Flush the cooling system good!! Use distilled bottled water!!( not tap water)!!
Did this on a 2010 and everything worked great but my front turn signals aren’t working after i put everything back together and the rears flash really fast!
Strange , check the connection around the steering column
Did the same. It's most likely the red plug on the column. Just behind the signal lever.
thanks, man
@@joelvanhorn7448 appreciate you
My mannnn better u then me bro lol
Lol
Great job !!
Thanks
Who thought putting an obvious wear component like the heater core buried behind the dash was a good idea? I'm no mechanic but it seems it could have been mounted in the engine compartment - but that's just me. Now it's time to spend $1300+ - thank you Ford designers.
Could of been made a lot easier
How long did that take to do?
3.5-4 hours
How long did it actually take
Depends on your skill level, average person could round trip it in 5-6 hours
Amazing video but that 13mm top bolts would be he death of me
Appreciate it
It’s 2009 f150 4door fx4 full console with Shifter. Cluster isn’t lighting up and the blinker on the cluster isn’t working and 4wd isn’t working
How many pins are in the connector, what color is it and where exactly is it sitting at
Has anyone else had issues removing the air box? I got the three engine compartment bolts and two in the cab and am still struggling to get the air box out.
I dont remember it being to hard to come out
If you get the three on the inside & the ones under the hood it should slide back enough
We are having that issue right now. It has been a breeze until now. What was your solution?
Recheck and make sure you got the bolts out
The bolts are out but the tubes for the evaporator core keeps pulling it back. Even took the bottom bolt all the way out. Makes me nervous to pull that hard on those tubes. The heater core is also kind of stuck so that doesn’t help. Do you just pull straight out or push the heater core tubes out and to the right?
Great vid….but holy shit, that looks like a nightmare! I think I’ll just set my truck on fire if the heater core goes…Lol.
Lol
I suspect my heater core is leaking/cracked in my 2014 f150 because there is a slight coolant smell and there is coolant leaking just forward of the driver's side door (behind the front driver's side mud flap) outside...nothing leaking inside. Most of what i have researched online lead me to believe this is the culprit of the leak. I am pretty handy with tools, but by no means a certified mechanic! So i thought "hey...you can do this...seems an easy fix". But after watching this video I'm like...."F**K THAT!!!" I will just pay someone else to do it! lol!!
Lol, you can do it just take your time
@@Boostismyfriend naaaahhhh...im a bit adhd so my attention span wouldnt be able to get past the 4th bolt. i would forget what da hell i was supposed to be doing! lol
Does all the coolant need to be removed?
No
Any Ford is a dam dog to change the heater core...no exceptions here either..
Good job Sammy
Thanks
Old f150 and Taurus are a 20 min job
Love them old f150’s
Awesome
Appreciate it
Oops. I meant CLOCK spring.......
I'm old.......
👍
Im still wondering why as advanced as the automotive industry has become....why are we still using heater cores from the enginge block for heat....whats wrong with a simple heating element on a thermostat in a housing with a fan blowing on it...
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Fires
@@mog_3825 ok...I can go with that
Ford quality
Yep
Might as well change them crappy Ford blend motors, click,click, click lol A.D.A.D./D.B.T.G
Did it last week lmao
Why don't engineers make the newer ones easier to get to?
Because they like to tax the working man
@@Boostismyfriend 😂
Might as well just bring you the truck...
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good grief! u had to practically disassemble the whole interior! no thanks
Lol
1st
💪
Looks like buying a new truck is easier lol
Lol
mann i smell antifreeze, was so hoping this was a quick fix. who the fuck designs this shit... my god...
not looking forward to this project lol.
Damn
How'd it go?
I need mine replaced. Where is your shop located, I'm in Texas??? PS. I like your hourly rates sign in the background, takes care of all them know-it-alls.
Lol, i am located in lincolnton, Nc
So do you have to mess with the evaporator core?
No
@@Boostismyfriend thank goodness I am going to do it tomorrow. Wish me luck 😂😅
You will do just fine
How do u do it without unhooking evaporater core
@@Boostismyfriend how?
Say this is a good video. Did you see that trick where that guy from Florida put a vise grip on the steering rod to keep it in place?
@@Corey-dy2cq i didn’t
If I were gon replace the heater core I would replace all evap dryer and a/c stuff as well. If you're in there you're in there. The parts arent that xpensive but the labor is.
@@Corey-dy2cq 👍