Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 • Parts Cannon!! Can it ...
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 • Frustrating Diagnosis!...
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 • Razor Sharp Gears!! NO...
New "Wife unit" T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! • Old Jeeps Die HARD! Th...
Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
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Wow, @33:00 I can’t believe you didn’t torque the flywheel bolts and put a bit of thread lock on them. The crank to flywheel interface is constantly transferring major engine pulsations to the flywheel between each cylinders firing, I’ve seen these bolts back out from these vibrations and cause major damage. These bolts must be torqued.
I can't quite understand why I am watching this at O-dark thirty in the morning after being a mechanic for 60 years but I love to watch you do things and explain what you are doing. I think you would have additional career working at a local trade college with your ability to explain processes.
You're watching it because it's not you doing it. Always more interesting when it's not your fingers getting smashed.
@@kenore4003 I agree I've removed more transmissions than I care to count and for some reason I still find it interesting to watch someone else do it so I don't have to lol
He is addictive
@@nightshiftgamer7376 many of us love hard manual labor, we could watch a guy do it all day long...lol
@@warrend114 right lol rainman has to be one of the best mechanics I've seen on RUclips I've referenced his videos a few times for my own at home repairs just to make sure I had everything right
Besides Ray's mechanical abilities I love the way he explains how the interacting of all the different parts works.
He is like a Auto Repair 101 Instructor.
I agree, everyday I’m on break I’m in my car watching, learning.
Thank you Ray for your educational content
I dk any other content that will literally video the whole or almost to whole job and he teaches the reasons why as well as treats the car as if it’s his own like cleans shit up or goes extra mile re greasing stuff like a mechanic fking should
He’s so dope
This! It's one of the reason I love Ray's content over alot of others if I'm honest. Personally I love to learn the reasons behind things, if that makes sense.
Rather than just, X needs to be replaced, Ray explains why and what it does, along with other bits he happens to be working around
@@Voltikz95 agreed
I watch his stuff for last half a year it’s very cool!9
I like the sneakyness making it look like the light was never removed from inside the bell hoursing when mating it back to the engine! Vehicle has a special inspection part now.
Great video. Only a few things I'd suggest. Torque the flywheel bolts, clean the flywheel, change the rear main seal, clean the dust cover, change the input seal and lube the contract points on the clutch fork
I would like to think he did those things or some of them off camera have a great day
Brad, Glad you suggested this as it was on my Mind...
I find myself doing the same. Ray you need to torque the flywheel bolts! Then I remember he probably just edited that out. I'm sure my wife thinks I'm nuts as I'm forever reminding him about something I think he forgot or overlooked. Oh well, it's fun to work together.
Ray should at least say, yes I’ve torqued everything down, also agree with you Brad
Having achieved access to the rear main seal, I'd have to change it.
Don’t forget the blue loctite on the flywheel bolts.😂 The clutch disc will not fit both ways so it’s dummy proof. Also clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with brake clean unless you like a chatter grip starting from a stop in 1st gear. 😊 Check for a binding clutch disc on your input shaft while the transmission is on the floor. One tiny burr will ruin your day. A tiny tiny bit of grease on the splines helps too. Since I remove the bell housing I also use guide bolts with the heads cut off on the top 2 mounting holes on the bell housing to help guide my Muncie transmission in straight so you don’t bend up the clutch disc. Lastly do not pull in the transmission the last few mm with the mounting bolts or you may break off a mounting ear. It’s binding so push it in because it will go in eventually. Remember when I mentioned about trial fitting the clutch disc while the transmission is on the floor, ya that’s the reason.😂
I was always told use red loctite for flywheel bolts because of the heat generated from the clutch and flywheel. It will boil the blue stuff.
too late!
Ray doesn't like thread locker or anti-seize for some reason.
never use grease on the splines, use anti-seize, and only a tiny bit so it doesn't get flung around.
I too have a drawer full of old bolts with the heads cut off and a slot sawed in the end
I love how you show ALL steps, including your misses and mistakes, what all of us encounter during a fix.
Imagine Ray as a freshman, Thankyou sir, may I have ANOTHER!!!!
So jealous to see all those bolts coming out so easy! If this Jeep lived in Ottawa it would have been scrap metal 10yrs ago!
I live in the Maritimes. Rust & salt. Nothing ever is easy to replace. And iv fixed the frame on my truck a few times from rusted out holes.
and the potholes would assist in breakage ... lol
@@Faresplease ... says every person living east of the Rockies.
UK same - rotted away in the winter salt
Breathing in that brake cleaner is not a good thing Ray
Hi Ray,
I am an old time mechanic from Australia and now retired but still working on everyones cars. I noticed the trouble you were having with removing the spigot bearing from the end of that crankshaft and thought you might like to try something that I was shown as a kid. If you fill the cavity with grease and then find a bit of wooden stick or anything close to the inside diameter and insert it, then hit it with a big hammer the hydraulic pressure will pop that bearing out easily. Give it a try next time.
I really enjoy your videos, makes me feel younger!
Cheers, Rusty
You are the first person to ever describe how a clutch and transmission work that I understood.
What I liked most about this video happened at 14:58, when you accidentally dropped a mounting bolt for the crank sensor into the bell housing. Brilliant teaching, it was like you did that on purpose to emphasize a point. Misadventures are the most efficient pathway to wisdom of experience.
A lot of Bell housings have an inspection plate at the lower edge which makes retrieval easy in case of dropped bits.
You'll notice the crank sensor was installed on the bellhousing BEFORE the transmission was reinstalled, to prevent a possible recurrence.
This is mentioned on every single 4.0 CKP video out there, and also in every single manual ... because it's the one thing you absolutely just do not want to do.
I didn't see anything later in about the bolt falling out or loose in there. Maybe I missed it.
@@Wakeupandsniffthecoffee oh it came out - the sensor was properly mounted on the bell housing when the tranny was remounted.
So happened, just off camera.
These are the videos I live for. Solid hour of wrenching. Thank you Ray.
I did not even noticed it passed one hour, jeez.
That little Milwaukee M12 stubby is bad ass.
I knew a guy who worked for a rally garage. He did this job in 17 minutes, lying on his back under the car in the snow covered Welsh mountains. They awarded him Mechanic of the year...
Sounds like he earned it! I’d probably bitch about laying on my back in the snow for 15 minutes. Lol
replaced the clutch on my 72 nova during the winter in my driveway in Michigan laying on my back, first and almost the last time i replaced a clutch....LOL
25:00 Ray, the way you remove a pilot bushing/bearing is NOT to pry it out. You pack the hole with grease and then push a ID-sized pin into the hole, thus ejecting the bushing/bearing. Good God.
I found a set of temporary installation studs I made years ago in the tool box. They are the same thread as the bell housing bolts but longer with a large chamfer. They make the alignment a lot easier and help guide the transmission onto the dowels. Driveway mechanic tooling but it sure makes the job easier when wrestling with a transmission while on your back.
Now that's a brilliant idea.
Thanks for the idea! Need to do a clutch job on my '03 truck.
Did the extended bolt thing back in the late 70's driveway R N R with no damn jack. Two guys covered in ice. February in Anchorage Alaska. Yet it was an AMC EAGLE.. I get it.
No it wasn't uphill in both directions.. it was old school hardship days.. ;-)
Yes!...I even put a saw cut so I can remove them with a straight screwdriver.
That's the way I like to do it... especially when dropping in an engine with a cherry picker and no spotter. Otherwise, it takes 10x as long to line up the engine and trans.
Tip to new DIY'ers: never drive a dowel pin/bushing in with a steel hammer. They should go in without hammering, and if you DO need a hammer, use a brass hammer; if you deform the bushing with a steel hammer, it will make it very difficult to install the part....in this case, the trans...on the dowel. Also, be SURE to clean the flywheel's friction surface thoroughly with brake clean before putting the clutch plate (friction plate) in place. I'm surprised Ray didn't do this.
Just because it's not in the video does not mean it didn't happen. This is entertainment not educational documentaries
Maybe you should start your own channel doing repairs so we can see how it is all done according to you. Just because you did not see him do it does not mean he didnt. I am surprised that you would assume something like that.
There are a bunch of subtle activities needed to take place to do the job properly. A younger me did not know that brand new bearings needed care not to stress or damage it during installation and wondered why I had early failures. When it occurs to Ray, he'll mention critical things done off camera. There is a strong practical approach to getting things done that Ray has and I expect he doesn't get too many do-agains. Still, sometimes I wince.
Exactly!
I saw that and thought…..rainman is not rainman today.
And I didn’t see a torque wrench on any flywheel or clutch housing bolts either.
Tisk tisk …..that’s a risk.
Hey Ray, just had a customer with a jeep renegade, with a failed clutch. These jeeps are made in Italy, with Fiat parts. It's a 6sp manual, mated to the 1.4L multi air, using a dual mass flywheel (which looks like it fits a go cart). These clutches are tiny and weak, and like Fiat in general, prone to failure with everyday driving. This customer is a big rig driver, so they are adept with standard transmission driving, so there's no excess abuse. The kicker is the flywheel is disposable. Being dual mass, you can't resurface them, and because it's two pieces that move independently, with spring dampeners, they are designed to fail from the drawing board. Replacing the flywheel comes at a cost upwards of $1,000, plus a matching disc and pressure plate for another $250-300. There is one company online that makes a single mass clutch kit, but that creates an issue of future service with only one company available to supply replacement parts. The disc is likely the same, but the pressure plate is likely built to accommodate the single mass flywheel and not the OE DMF. What a POS company, to build a Jeep from a Fiat 500!
"You can laugh or cry, I don't have the hydration to cry all day". Adding that one to the mental health arsenal 👊 loving this continuing series! Off to the bonus video ✌️
just watched of someone doing the pilot bearing with bread and straight bar. was amazing
If you fill the pilot bearing with grease and get a socket that fits in it with a extention. Tap the extension and it will pop out. I didn't believe this when I was a kid and have done it many times,always works.
I have even seen a guy use crumpled up bread stuffed in the hole.
Me too it's a simple idea but it does work have a great day
Bread, soap, grease or pretty much any nonliquid that is very malleable and incompressible will work too.
My favorite is pieces of greasy blue towel wadded up, but yes, it works great.
@@bobpowers4454 I came here to say this!
I often see you re-greasing a new or used part without knowing whether the grease you're applying is compatible with what is already in the part. Incompatibility could cause the greases to react with each other and turn into a worthless putty.
And a 10-12oz brass hammer would be useful taping little locating bushings into their homes.
A cool trick my dad came up with, to align the bell housing , get a pair of all thread the same thread as the bell housing bolts. Slide the trans onto the bolts, and they align everything to the transmission assembly. Makes a simple slide in on the clutch. Then all ya gotta do is wiggle the yoke a tad till the teeth align. Easy Peasy.
Well I've been working on flying saucers in New Mexico for 96 years and Ray its good to see you mature.
Oh, the memories come back...
Replacing all the clutch parts in my driveway with no jacks, power tools, and home made pilot dowel made from wood dowel wrapped with masking tape to correct diameters.
On two different cars back around 1986.
Been there, done that.
With a couple of buddies, a few cases of beer, a few pizzas, and rock music on the radio. Great times, good clean fun.
Never used a dowel, as I shoved my Saginaw transmission in, I had someone depress the clutch. My wife used two legs and feet on the clutch to press it in. 69 Malibu
Same here, balancing a gearbox on my chest before dragging it out... up to my eye balls with gearbox oil... and on one occasion, damaging the main seal with all the faffing about and not noticing until I got the bloody thing back on!! A broom handle hammered into the old clutch plate makes a great aligner!
Bash plates off pursuit spec Police cars make excellent cradles to modify a stock floor jack into a gearbox lift, I still have the multifit alignment tool I purchased in my 20s and it proved to be invaluable for single operator installs 👍
Got quoted $2500 to change out a worn clutch on a Isuzu Trooper/Holden Jackaroo by the dealership over 20 years ago (parts were $300 retail), so instead I took 2 days off work (without pay) and did it myself and still came out well in front 👍
An easier way to remove pilot bearings. Pack the hole with wheel bearing grease, get an old pilot shaft or clutch alignment tool. Drive that tool into the pilot bearing hole and the bearing will pop out. Did that hundreds of times.
Coffee and watching Ray wrench on automobiles first thing in the morning...I can't find a better way to start my day...Thank you Ray..And you have a good day 😁
Well pressure plates are supposed to be torqued to a specific amount or bad things are gonna happen like premature wear or uneven clamping pressure and slipping. Not to mention the machine oil coating they apply at the manufacturer on the flywheel. Clutch should last about a year if you are lucky.
Don't cross the streams, Ray! Thanks for the video.
I agree with almost 100% of what you do, but I would have put locktight on the flywheel bolts and used a torque wrench...I hardly ever use one, but with head bolts, flywheel, and engine internals...I definitely do.
The Jeep has turned into a real project, and I'm glad. Ever since it appeared at the other place I have been in love with it. It's going to be something when it's done.
I have a bicycle that is going to be like this jeep. Old and ugly, but all the critical parts will be brand new.
I wouldn't want to have to pay for all that labor! But should be worth it for the owner.
@@joecanuck3751 One of my hobbies is to purchase high end mountain bikes of the 80’s/90’s (pre-suspension) and refurbish them from the ground up as Urban Commuter Bikes. I then resell or add to my current collection. It’s an addicting hobby. 😁
This seems more of a restoration project than a repair. Lots of work and enjoyable to watch.
I wonder if the guy who brought it in just gave it to Ray after seeing the bill for the repair work to make it run right.
@@spaceflight1019 I do believe the guy gave Ray x amount of money And asked Ray to do what he could with it
I think the only difference between restoration and repair is whether you drive it between each repair.
Can't believe you cleaned up the rear of the crankshaft without masking off that freshly greased spigot bearing.
Like watching your garage. But disappointed that you didn't torque the fly wheel down. Uneven torque can cause crank bearing damage. Eric O torque the flywheel down. Now saying that I do love watching your show
Ray, here is a thought for removing pilot bearings in blind holes: Fill the entire hole with grease. Select a punch/drift the diameter of the First Motion Shaft and push it into the bearing. One swift whack with a hamster will usually pop the bearing our by hydraulic action. This is usually the only way to remove the old fashioned Phosphor Bronze / Oilite bushings. Hopes this helps
Use a hammer, not a hamster :) Also, wet paper or silicone earplugs work too!
@@tobiwan2741 No, I am correct. The term hammer was superseded by Basil Fawlty in Fawlty Towers. He was trying to nail a moose head on a wall and someone suggested he use a hamster. All British Techs have used that nomenclature from then on.
.... please don't whack your greasy hamster in public.
@@fred414141 Oh, good point, glad you reminded. In future, I'll keep he garage door shut. Thank you
My exact thoughts soon as I saw Ray faff about . Been doing the grease trick for 25 years when I 1st started this dead end job
Dang with the wear on everything, I bet that Jeep has some stories to tell
For your viewers the pressure plate assembly (not a basket) is a diaphragm type pressure plate assembly. I am glad you noted the flywheel side on the clutch for your viewers.
Old School of wrenching. On the pilot bearing if you have a old input shaft or round bar the right size, pack the cavity behind bearing with wheel bearing grease and drive the shaft in with sledge hammer. Believe it or not the bearing will be pushed out with hydraulic pressure un-damaged. I still find it hard to believe someone was driving this Jeep. During my years turning wrenches I was amazed and shocked that customers would turn the radio up and keep driving until it stopped. Be thankful it is not a Hummer H3, the motor mounts are near impossible. Great Job!
@Ray in the future for the flywheel bearing...just fill it with grease in the hole and put a close diameter shaft in the hole and tap it in the hole so the grease will push the bearing out...keep filling with grease until it comes out....
I've seen people do that with old bread... works surprisingly well and no pressurized grease explosion....
I believe paper works too
Hey Ray, you forgot to brake clean the flywheel before you put the clutch parts on!!!
I would do the rear main while I had it THAT far down and the exhaust off.....and I did enjoy the video Ray. I like to coach you as you go....''don't forget to grease the pivot on the throw out fork!''...stuff like that!
Pilot beating removal tip.
Fill the hole with grease and use a shaft of equal dimension.
By hammering in the shaft it will push the bearing out.
Keep adding grease and hammer till the bearing is removed.
I replaced a clutch on my 95 S10 a few years ago, but I didn't have the benefit of a lift. That job was 8 hours of misery on my back lying in transmission fluid and dirt trying to hold my head upright. My neck was so sore for days afterwards. Great video!
Did you clean the new flywheel and make it shiny? I believe it was shipped with cosmoline to prevent corrosion.
I was wondering the same thing. You could see it was thick on it.
Me too
no cuz he’s a hack
@@weeewa2532 I work in this industry, there are lots of mechanics and technicians who are “hacks”, either this guy is not one of them or he does a damn good job of playing a great technician
Imagine laying on your back trying to guide an old 3 speed cast iron 1950's truck transmission into the clutch with nothing but your arms and chest to support it. Then imagine it is on a gravel drive. Been there, done that. Lifts and a jack would have done wonders for that job!
"This video was made for educational purposes only, it would be less expensive to buy a new Jeep"......😄😄....I'm jealous Ray, I would LOVE to be repairing everything as you have. Brings back a LOT of great memories!
Another SCAMMER Ray!
Awesome watching you resurrect the jeep back to better than factory.
You forgot to clean the flywheel and pressure plate!!
I've owned Jeep Model from 1950 up to 2018 and in between (Willys, Full size Jeeps, Wranglers, Cherokees, Grand Wagoneers, Grand Cherokees, ect) and do most of the work myself (rebuilding the top end of the 4.0 right now)..
What I ABSOLUTELY HATE is how easy Ray makes it look! It's NEVER that easy, yet... he does!
SO happy to be able to (ever so slightly) feel part of this journey from employee to owner!
When Ray said, "... we're putting a diff in it." I first had college flashbacks to a class of differential equations, then I realized he was talking about a vehicle's differential.
I'm going to over in that corner rocking myself calm.
Surprised you didn't clean the new flywheel with some brake clean, maybe it didn't have any type of protective coating on it? Looked kinda funky though like it might've.
Yeah, it totally had shipping oil all over it.
I think he was fishing and you just bit.
hey ray, just a little safety tip, never ratchet strap in opposite directions on opposite sides of the jack post, it will cause the plate to spin and not get fully tightened, it can also come loose when your spinning it around like you did. Just dont wanna see you get hurt.
Ray pilot bearing removal. Get a punch that barely fits in bushing. Then take water soaked pieces of paper towel. Push them in the hole until the cavity is filled. Then take the punch and compress the towels with linear impacts. Then add more to it until hydraulic pressure pushes it out.
I’m liking those tiny magnet lights they give off a lot of light without getting in the way
For heaven's sake Ray when using a reciprocating saw push the anvil (the head) hard against the object and that way just the blade moves and not the saw body making cutting 100% efficient. It's basic mate. All you are doing is taking more time, ruining blades and damaging the tool not mention the physical dangers.
This brings back a lot of memories of changing out clutches in vehicles that were bought cheap because the clutch was slipping. I once changed a clutch outdoors on jack stands on a frozen pool of water. Bottle jack and strong arms. Those were the days! Cast iron T-10 is heavy.
The transfer case of my 75 Blazer used to go in in an angle sideways you had to put it in and rotate one end up why they designed it that way it was just for clearance on the drive shaft but I did did it twice on my back on concrete fun job but it got it done have a great day
Did that once and never again.
@@michaelpressman7203, Youth, and we wonder why we ache so bad in our older years! Lol
ive learnt so much of you ray in this video in the last five years of been on youtube. Thank you
So .. my first clutch job was far more interesting ... trans came out through a hole in front seat floor pan ... had to disconnect the torque tube ('49 Chevy) .. pulled the bell housing and was showered with pieces of clutch lining -- the rivets had worn through. No alignment tool my dad helped me whittle down a broom stick .. LOL on my back in an unheated garage in Ohio in November 1965, Memories. Thanks for the reminder of what's involved.
Pro tip: Use bread! No, seriously! If you don't have a pilot bear puller attachment for the slide hammer, just start packing down the inner cavity with bread, and then use a hammer and chisel to pack it in until it's so tight, it pushes it out from the inside.
i was told grease works also with a hammer and a shaft that just fits so hydraulic pressure pushed the bearing back
same idea more messy i guess
@@gpsguidedsimpson It does actually, and I thought about mentioning grease, but that's super messy, and bread is easier to clean out with a blow gun.
@@gpsguidedsimpson Blue paper shop towels can also work as well for this.
In Australia, a Trans is an auto and we call them manual gearboxes.
Here in America manual transmissions serve a purpose they DIDN'T about 30 or 40 years ago. Now they also serve as an anti theft device. Your average thuglet doesn't know how to operate one!
@@azpapa9347 I'm old so make it 3 on the tree and watch them try lol
Tap that like button, because the man does awesome work,.....
THEN, Honestly, I don't understand HOW Ray has all of this knowledge, and still doesn't know that you use the BACK SIDE OF A slightly LARGER SOCKET, to drive the bearings for, well just about anything.....
Back of larger socket = bearings end up flush....
Front Side of socket = bearings end up Countersunk....
I guess I got it from having to pull and replace and PAY for my mistakes.....
Thanks UNCLE BENNY!!!!
I love how you explain things and I've learned so much from you
About 30:00 in: those 3M bristle disk are some of the most handy tool accessories that I can think of. 😊
I feel like that pilot bearing solution was a perfect example of "You can't solve the first problem until you create a second problem." 😀
The last clutch job I did was on my 1984 Ford E 150 van. 5 speed. We didn't have no stinkin' lift or a trans jack. Ramps only and on our backs. God. WTH was wrong with us ?
Try putting in a trans and transfer from a 77 chevy 3/4 ton on jacks stands and a peice of plywood to roll a hydraulic floor jack around on,they were cast iron then.I was young and strong then too,hahaha.
... And that FREEZE PLUG up top will leak tomorrow...and it will all have to come apart again to allow access... it already has signs of RUST dripping down it... Marine duty BRASS is what I'd put in there... never saw a torque wrench used...The whizz wheel contaminated his pilot with highly abrasive whizz wheel grits... Dan Habluetzel
Just did the same job on my 98 Ram.....with 24 yrs of salty winter roads worth of rust on every bolt! You got it easy! Did mine laying on the ground!
Watching you is taking me back 30+ years, feels like I’m in auto tech school again. 👍
I’ve been watching Mr. Ray for a while now and I’ve been waiting on bigger jobs like this. One thing that I’ve found out after working in a private shop and now working for valvoline, the retail shops won’t do headgaskets, transmissions, and bigger jobs like that. So now that he owns his own shop I hope that I can see more of that! Love your videos sir keep up the good work
20+ years in motor trade I never used a can or brake cleaner, just petrol or paraffin on a rag, to clean the friction face, maybe I'm just deficient in my cleaning things. By the way love your videos, reminds me so much of setting up my last workshop, on my ownsome for several months before getting someone to work with, and that I truly regretted, he was more trouble than the help he gave.
Another way to get pilot bearings out is to pack the pilot bearing opening with grease and use a metal shaft and drive it in the opening and the grease will force the bearing out
Ray I appreciate you showing how the clutch works. I've seen it explained before but it's cool to see it explained as you unbolt and rebolt. Thumbs up!
Been missing "it's a Jeep thing".
Nicely matching lift and trans stand!
You bring back so many memories of when I was doing this in the late 60's as a kid, at home with the car on jack stands. Interestingly you are repairing a vehicle that 95% of the populace can not drive! ROFLAMO! A manual transmission should now be considered a theft deterrent auto reducing insurance premiums.The jeep isn't even done yet and it already took me on a ride down memory lane.
On occasion, we used to do those kinds of jobs in someones driveway on our backs. Definitely took us 8 hours with three or four people. Good work gentlemen! Be safe.
Comment answered from part 4 - I couldn't understand how the wear had formed on the diff. or why the shock mount had been rewelded.
On seeing a temperature buckled flywheel, I now understand - it's had a hard life.
Great video Ray, I really enjoyed this one especially the fine detail which makes the difference between a mechanic in a hurry and technician doing it right.
Takes me back to when I use to change my own clutches. Never had the luxury of a lift. Always seemed to be snowing when I had to do them. Only had an unheated garage, numb fingers where the biggest issue. Trolley jack with a plate made up to hold transmission while removing and replacing not as good as a proper transmission jack. Made my own clutch alignment tool for centering clutch. Alignment was always spot on. Lining up first two bolts when replacing transmission was the biggest issue. Transmissions where not always easy to wiggle into correct position. Then trying to insert bolts and start by hand with numb fingers was a "challenge".
Somebody really must love that Jeep to pay for an extensive restoration like this.
The jeep is getting it's shape. Nice work.
This has got to be one of the most informative videos for someone like me who's only rebuilt an engine (diy) and never worked on anything transmission related.
Mistake one: you didn't de-grease the fly wheel or pressure plate.
Mistake two: - The bell housing was sealed, remember you cleaned it off, and you didn't reseal it and this is a 4x4 which means there's going to be water going into the clutch.
To remove a pilot bearing, fill the area behind with grease and use a snug fitting shaft (socket extention ,clutch alignment tool, etc, )
and hammer it in, the grease easily hydraulics the bearing out.
Great video. I learn a lot from your casual banter while working.
I've only done one clutch job in my life and that was when I was young and foolish, literally 50 years ago, outside, one the ground on a British Sunbeam Alpine sports car. I cannot imagine now how I got through that.
You should read George Orwell's 1984 were living in those times, great video of a classic automobile easy to work on compared to the new autos.
1984 is here
@@ravenbishop5232 I know I had to read it in 1974
Watching a job I've done several times.
The only thing different is Ray's commentary!
Have heard of "throw out bearings" going bad. Now I know what they look like! Thank you Ray.
I love seeing the old YJ getting the love it deserves. Another great video Ray.
I've been loving this jeep resto series so far. As someone who isn't a mechanic but has a deep love for pretty much everything with an engine, I have learnt alot from this series.
I was wondering why the fingers on the pressure plate were sticking out so far, I never knew they bend in when you tighten them....
That compresses & clamps the clutch that's why the fingers go in I would like to see the old clutch just out of curiosity I bet it was smoked have a great day
@@michaelpressman7203 The friction disk didn't look too bad at all actually, you can get a decent glimpse of it at @22:48. Pressure plate was probably not much better shape than the flywheel though. Throwout bearing was quite trashed.
if they didnt you wouldnt have drive,,they put the pressure on the flywheel so you drive,, clutches only need 1/2"" of movement to seperate so you can change gear. thers multi finger & 3 finger pressure plates, plus multi disc, for raceing. 70,s ford gt ho, use twin plate clutches, more disc meat.
The more the clutch wears, the further out the fingers will be, until they start running against the thrust bearing, causing the clutch to slip
Easiest pilot bearing / bushing removal method- Buy a cheap universal clutch alignment tool or find a hardwood dowel that fits the bearing tightly. Fill the cavity in the crankshaft with heavy grease. Insert tool / dowel and smack it with a hammer. The pressure will pop that bearing / bushing right out. Clean the excess grease out of the cavity and install new bearing / bushing.
You know, with all the cleaner you use, you could put up an empty solvent tank/sink, clean parts in it, and eventually, you wouldn't need the cans, any more. Perhaps once in a while to top up the level after some evaporates.
Set up a recirculator pump, particulate sump, filter...
I've had such a setup. It's great!
I would think there are torque requirements on the rotating assembly. I not a mechanic but it seems that would be a must do.
Its interesting to see the camera and the lighting interact with phase and interference - just interesting
Some of the things that appear to not be done are well described by other comments. I do think Ray sometimes omits those parts but previously posted content clearly states the cleaning of flywheel and pressure plate ect. Still Ray is highly successful and he stands by his work. If it becomes a problem he will make it right. Nice work bravo sir. Nothing better than feeling a new clutch for the first time after completing the job.
Somebody really loves their JEEP.
Hey Ray, just loving Project Jeep! Lots of new parts going in. With the overall condition of it I'd say it's well worth it. Much cheaper than a new one. Cheers!
You hit the nail on the head buddy you want to come some vehicles a lot of people look at will Ray's doing this and Ray's doing that and oh look at the money it cost but sometimes you got to look at what a new vehicle cost and it's worth the time invested and money to get you a decent running vehicle for a reasonable price versus going out there and buying something new but crazy money I mean my house cost less than some of these vehicles nowadays I can't justify buying a vehicle not brand new bye thank you
One great advantage to the old Jeep: it doesn't have all the new stuff that will fail after the warranty runs out!
I’m surprised you didn’t brake clean the flywheel and pressure plate has it looked like there was covered with projection like you get on brake disc’s/ Rotors Ray
Thanks for giving me a step by step on changing the clutch bearings on our TJ!
Sometimes it can help to have a few lengths of threaded bar screwed into the engine to help align the transmission when refitting. Great fun as ever Ray, keep on wrenching
If you have any old long bolts around cut the heads off right behind the neck round them off to a bullet point so you have a threaded rod with a pilot stud on the end and it makes life really easy I've done it a few times I used to do it on molds have a great day
Ray, your such a talented mechanic, and I love how you usually go the extra mile for your customers, but I feel that you missed 3 major steps in this job. (1) no blue loctite on flywheel bolts (2) no torque on flywheel bolts (3) flywheel surface was not cleaned. Growing up in my dads shop, I’ve seen cars come back with flywheel bolts backed out and cause more damage even when “torqued” that were not loctite. Techs would alway say “but I torqued them!” And cleaning the flywheel is just the same as cleaning new rotors ( maybe you did it off camera?) Thanks for the awesome videos as always!