Worked on a couple pine scraps and cant believe how great theyre turning out w the laquer thinner and mixing in drops to blend in different ratios IM LOVING THIS thank you!!!
@johnnycorn7225 @johnnycorn7225 The best is what I have always wanted to achieve, so that is an honor. The liquid dyes mixed into a non oil based epoxy will be so clean, and will be a great addition to your craft 😉👍
@@KedaWoodDye really can't wait to see how the epoxy looks! What kind would you recommend was looking on Amazon n couldn't tell. Iv got both the powder and liquid dyes 😀
@johnnycorn7225 coloring epoxy resin video ;) super clean! Is here: ruclips.net/video/Jje8Qb5um7M/видео.htmlsi=7Mz4_pfqJbLudUL- 👍❤️💛💙 It would have been ❤️🤍💙 but I have struggled with the white dye solution for 11 years+ now 🤷♂️ 🤬 still trying though lol 😆 Have a great weekend fam!
Wow...man this is incredible, great job and thanks for sharing. You're extremely talented and a great tutor, you have a perfect balance of explaining the process and materials but not at such a molecular level that I have to pause and Google what you're talking about haha.
This would be awesome to link or embed in the "Mixing Dyes" section of the site, especially the swatches at the end. Incredible reference for color outcomes.
For a lacquer clear Cardinal makes a great one specifically for luthiers and marine applications 6M79-1 urethane, 6M-01 reducer, 6M HP hardener. 2:1 brushing and 2:1:1 spray.
Traditional Tools You should see them in person if you like this. Anyone that watches my channel, soon realize photography and video making is a skill I am still trying improve upon... Hahahaha.... I will get there (Hopefully) The baby blue color is one I have been asked numerous times, so that is the one I am doing next. Should be done very soon 👍 Thank you again for watching
Spoke to you over the phone yesterday about scorching/dyeing an upcoming project. Thank you for the tips. I'd really like to see a vid by you, experimenting with that process. There's a company called 'reSawn', and they do scorch/dye. The pix of the end result are phenominal.
Yikes! My mother always told me not to play with fire hahahaha just kidding of course, I will see what I can do. It may take a little bit, as that is a wood finishing process I will need to practice a little more with :) I have done it a couple times, but to make a video on it, I would like to be much more refined in the process... Thank you for your interest, and for watching!
Going to try. Have been trying. Busy making tanks to increase production without sacrificing quality to maintain small batch runs, as well as trying to optimize listings, and find ways to generate sales sigh... I have to do a yakisugi Pink request first from a super thanks, but will work on that. I actually have a video with the yellow on southern pine but is a Shou Sugi Ban for a work bench I did, and I added LED lights for my work surface. It is a great space to work on. I believe it is shown on some listings, but is testing the #dye coloring ;) Dont think followers want to see projects, so have focus on the colors, tips etc 👍. Eitherway, thank you #fam 🙏 ❤️ Will get there. Hopefully with #woodworker options that can be used 🤞 Thank you! 🙏
@@KedaWoodDye Your doin great love the videos and gonna play with the liquid dye today n try a few red n orange hues on my pine box faces. I've been thoroughly pleased with the results so far, best stuff I've used and my customers eyes popped out when he saw his new box. AWESOME product 💯🔥
Beginner here. I have the same package of stain powders from Keda. How does one know when to use denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, lacquer thinner, or water?
Nice job!! Can I use these colors in kind of different wood furniture, kitchen cabinets, doors, diner tables, big studios furnitures, etc? And what polyurethane you can recommend for the layer to be more durable? Thank you
Is there some preparation other than sanding and cleaning the surface? How do you avoid blotching, I'm thinking of using water based dye on an alder piece, any tips for me?
Just to be totally honest with you...I haven't done any "Pre-stain", conditioning, pre sealing etc. in quite a while, and don't think I have even got to that in the videos yet (Sorry, running a little behind right now trying to move and all grrrr). I really just give a good sanding with a good quality aluminum oxide sandpaper that is bare wood specific (120 - 220) try not to go higher than 220. Higher than 220 you begin polishing the wood, (which can have some cool effect too if intended, but if not, stay under 220 for sure and probably don't go higher than 180 for alder) 150 grit tends to work the best for me as a standard, unless I get into soft woods, were I may go with a 220, or if I am wanting a specific look on harder wood such as say a Maple. Now there are times that I use a sugar water mix to try and get a cleaner cut on the wood fiber, and even sometimes I add a touch of wood glue to that too, but I usually reserve that for some low grade Pine or something I pulled from the firewood pile lol. If you do decide to condition the Alder with a wood conditioner, consider cutting it with water by like 25-50%. Many times people do the conditioning process, and the dyes are not able to penetrate the wood as well, and then feel they have to mix the dyes heavier. Then there are some that even get upset because the wood grains are all uniform and do not contrast, but that is the purpose of the conditioning process. To reduce light and dark areas. It is these areas that often create a lot of the depth and definition of the wood finish, so it really can depend on the look you are going for. Then there are...well, the less inferior coloring products. There are some pretty nasty coloring agents on the market that, yes, if you don't condition the begezus out of the wood, these wood coloring agents will make the wood look wonky. Sometimes will look wonky no matter what you do 🤷♂️ Best thing to do if you can, is use a drop of piece to test your finishing process. This will give you the best idea as to what YOU like in your wood finish target 😉 Otherwise, take your time on the sanding. A good prep is the base to your finish, but even more critical to the wood prep is the wood itself. Of course the wood dye or wood stain will play the largest part of the wood coloring portion of a wood finish, but a good prep sand can truly do miracles to the wood. Hope that helps my friend...and thank you for watching 👍
Awesome work! Thank you for sharing your technique. Have you ever work these dyes on Plywood? I have a little project using plywood luan panel. Do you think I would get similar results?
I have tried them on plywood and they work great. I made some shop benches out of plywood, and was sampling a mohagany type color. I did seal the colored plywood with a harder poly though for a more durable finish. It really did turn out beautiful, but here is the samples video I did before coloring the benches: ruclips.net/video/-1s2AiDpgec/видео.html
How does gluing them together effect the dye? If you were making a single color project, with multiple pieces. Would you glue it first then dye it, or dye it then glue it? I can imagine pros and cons to both methods.
It really can vary based on the project itself, how much holding power needed, etc but I typically will prep the wood with the sanding, then dye, then seal (unless I plan on sealing all at once, or am not wet sanding and buffing out each one), then glue. Sometimes though, I need more holding strength, where then I will sand to like a 150 grit, do my dying and glue work, (then say a quick prayer, start a sacred chant, hoping I cut them all even, and glue them all flush hahaha) then when I clamp them together carefully wipe off any excess glue squeeze (where you learn to get quite good at not over doing glue I might add lol) then wait til the glue dries. If all goes well, seal em all up at once (which also helps bind them all together too), but if glue did squeeze through, I typically take an exacto knife, try to cut as much out as I can, then evaluate if it needs hand sanding, and touch up work on the dye after the glue is sanded off. If it does, then I simply sand the glue out by hand, then go over with the dye again in that area and feather it in. Heck, sometimes, I even sand back more than I need to, like the whole board at times (just enough to try and even the board out) then just go over the entire board with the dye again. Now something like this, I would just keep the glue more towards the bottom (unseen side), and wouldn't go above the 1/2 way point. I hardly ever get any squeeze out on my good side then. When the glue squeezes, it will squeeze above the half way point, covering about 80 - 85% so I still get pretty good holding power, plus like I said before the sealer binds themselves together as well, especially after a couple coats ;) Hope that all makes sense... Thank you for watching! :)
Why do you say to mix the dye right before you use it? I ordered the powders two packs and mixed some into water as soon as I got them and they have been on my shelf in my shop for about three months now. I just used them for the first time and they are wonderful! I just used a water bottle for each color and still they look wonderful.
Jo Flores oh yeah they will last quite a while actually after they are mixed. Heck I have some dye stain mixes that are over 3 years old already that I still use. I will even toss a little powder dye in to freshen it up a bit here and there. I do a lot of videos showing color formulas, and how to get different wood dye colors, so I have to mix them in many of the wood dye videos to show the ratios and how it looks. Heck I have even mixed the powders as a concentrate with a tsp of purified water, mixed the dyes into that then added an ounce of 91% rubbing alcohol and made them like a dye concentrate ;) I do want to do several other types of videos, atop of the wood colors, and hopefully with the summer quickly approaching it will allow me a little extra time to get some together...thank you so much for watching, and for the comment 👍
I am really interested in changing my oak cabinets. I am willing to bleach them and then dye them. These beautiful colors seem to be put on already light maple. What can you tell me about dying oak cabinets? (That horrible 90's style).
This looks great! I have been experimenting with Keda Powder dyes in order to plan for a snare drum project that I am pursuing. I have been mixing the powder with water and when I try to layer two different colors the second color activated the dye previously used and mixes with the first color and doesn't layer. Is the key to the layering process the use of laquer thinner or denatured alcohol? I
Ummm the colors will layer, meaning to apply the dye colors in an effort to slightly modify the dye color beneath. If you want the wood dye colors to be totally different, meaning totally separate wood colors, then one, you could skip laying the base dye color down beneath the second dye stain color, or two, layering like in this video would be an option as well: ruclips.net/video/FbKWm4rqSXk/видео.html I am just thinking aloud here, but if you try layer another color on top of another color, without trying to actually change the color, wouldnt just the top color be seen? If that is the case, then you may want to consider just leaving the wood bare for the 2nd dye color to be applied? I am not sure exactly what you are trying to accomplish, so I may be confused on what you are asking? If so sorry for my confusion 🤷♂️ but thank you for watching :)
I know I really need to get back to making videos, plus I was actually getting used to it a little more. The yellow can look like a honey/amber color, but you have to mix it more towards the recommended ratio. The yellow in this video I believe was 1/4th tsp in 6 ounces denatured alcohol. Mixing the liquid yellow dye heavier will look more like the darker grains on the yellow boards. You can modify the wood dye colors quite a bit just modifying the mix as well as the wood sanding ;) Thank you for watching 👍🏻
If I want to do the really light blue, you said 10 drops of blue in 2oz of denatured alcohol. I am trying to get that color with the powder dye and 91% rubbing alcohol. What ratio dye to alcohol do you recommend?
Brandon Charles 10 drops in 2 oz pending on wood. Maybe 5 -6 for a pine etc. The powder would be similar, but maybe say half of 1/8 tsp to 2-3 ozs can always just add a little more RA if it goes darker. Again there are variables or differences pending on wood, sealer, prep work, imported wood, presealers or not, saps/sugars/oils in wood, moisture levels etc. but should get you pretty close. Wood finishing is much more of an art form than a science. Is not an easy Q&A many times. Hope that makes some sense
@@KedaWoodDye thanks for your quick reply. So I can do what you call a "sand back" with the rubbing alcohol? I don't have sand paper but my wood is pre-finished and sanded. I'm sure it's nice enough to dye, but it sounds like multiple light layers is the way to go!
@@brandoncharles4781 yes you could do a sandback with rubbing alcohol base. All the rubbing alcohol will be, is to be a tranfer agent to get the dye to the wood fibers in order for the dyes to do their job. Some reagents do work/mix better with the liquid dyes, meaning the liquid dyes mix better with high content alcohols, lacquer thinner, acetone etc than they would with water (powder dyes like a splash of water/moisture to open up) etc. but is basically used to get the wood dye to the wood for coloring and that is about all. Should be just fine. You typically wont do a sand back unless you have a figured wood you are trying to pop figure out of. Hope that makes sense.
Annony Mouse this was for a picture background for taking pictures and having a colorful background. I could just hang in out the wall I guess too, because I just can't stop staring at it. It was supposed to go back down in my shop, but I have it on my breakfast bar right now, cause although it sounds weird, it like gives me energy when I eat my breakfast. Maybe it is all in my head hahaha...
Annony Mouse If I really wanted too, I can router them into picture frames, or even cut then down and turn them into pens, but I needed a backdrop for some photography classes hahaha cause we all know I need them ;) hahaha
This is really cool, I am getting ready to put in a wood floor and I am trying to think if there is a way that I could piece in random planks that have a unique color instead of just doing the same color across the entire floor. The tricky part is that I would have to be able to sand the colored plank at least a little bit so that it was completely flush with the adjacent boards. It would look cool to have random colored pieces though I think.
Annony Mouse OMG! That would look SO AWESOME! do the sanding first, then you can take a small piece of rag and just wipe the dye on the boards you wanted colored. If you tape off the next board the dyes will not run into the next board since they are separate planks. That would look so amazing! You HAVE to send me pics if you do pretty pretty please 🙏🏻:)
I would think the dye would bleed under the tape wouldn't it? I thought maybe dyeing the wood planks really good first and THEN placing them in the floor might work better and keep the lines really sharp. I will have to play with it but that is my thought. Will have to see if I can pull it off though.
Bilbo Baggins hahaha I cannot agree more. You may want to see this video: ruclips.net/video/pfWik9_HTYs/видео.html It is exactly like you say, if I don't write it down, winter tends to freeze it right out of mind or the binders can make one say was that 2.0 grams or 0.20 grams I tried writing bahaha. You Rock!
Personally I get my curly maple from a local lumber yard...Krueger lumber in valders Wisconsin, but that is me. I also need to buy so many (250bft) board feet and specify the wood I am looking for. Gets pricey for certain woods that only makes up 1% - 5% of a tree if looking for a specific wood type. Hope that helps :)
More so the lighter teal color is what I'm after but would prefer not to have sand back the color. Using this on a vase that will be harder to sand all the detail. Have you tried mixing the colors initially instead of layering?
You really need better lighting at your work area if you're gonna do YT videos. I would very much enjoy watching if I could see it better. Not trying to hate, just some constructive criticism.
Worked on a couple pine scraps and cant believe how great theyre turning out w the laquer thinner and mixing in drops to blend in different ratios IM LOVING THIS thank you!!!
That is awesome! Happy I could be a part of your work! 🙏 Thank you!
@@KedaWoodDye best finish Iv ever used, no thank you!!! Going to get some epoxy next
@johnnycorn7225 @johnnycorn7225 The best is what I have always wanted to achieve, so that is an honor. The liquid dyes mixed into a non oil based epoxy will be so clean, and will be a great addition to your craft 😉👍
@@KedaWoodDye really can't wait to see how the epoxy looks! What kind would you recommend was looking on Amazon n couldn't tell. Iv got both the powder and liquid dyes 😀
@johnnycorn7225 coloring epoxy resin video ;) super clean! Is here:
ruclips.net/video/Jje8Qb5um7M/видео.htmlsi=7Mz4_pfqJbLudUL-
👍❤️💛💙 It would have been ❤️🤍💙 but I have struggled with the white dye solution for 11 years+ now 🤷♂️ 🤬 still trying though lol 😆 Have a great weekend fam!
Those colors are amazing.
These are so vibrant! Great job! Thanks for sharing this technique, Pam
Thank you and thank you for watching 👍🏻
Insanely beautiful pieces here. Nice work!
Wow...man this is incredible, great job and thanks for sharing. You're extremely talented and a great tutor, you have a perfect balance of explaining the process and materials but not at such a molecular level that I have to pause and Google what you're talking about haha.
Yay! I get stuck on how details on how to go sometimes, so this is VERY helpful. Thank you so much! Happy I could help out!
Very nice instruction, right from the beginning.👍👍 These look great!! I will try them in the future. 😁
TastyCritters thank you so much! I really do appreciate that :)
This would be awesome to link or embed in the "Mixing Dyes" section of the site, especially the swatches at the end. Incredible reference for color outcomes.
Lol I am lucky I can upload RUclips videos let alone that next level kinda stuff hahaha 😆 Hey thank you for watching 👍
For a lacquer clear Cardinal makes a great one specifically for luthiers and marine applications 6M79-1 urethane, 6M-01 reducer, 6M HP hardener. 2:1 brushing and 2:1:1 spray.
I will have to check that out. Thank you for watching 👍
Amazing colours. Definitely on my list to get.
Traditional Tools You should see them in person if you like this. Anyone that watches my channel, soon realize photography and video making is a skill I am still trying improve upon... Hahahaha.... I will get there (Hopefully) The baby blue color is one I have been asked numerous times, so that is the one I am doing next. Should be done very soon 👍 Thank you again for watching
Spoke to you over the phone yesterday about scorching/dyeing an upcoming project. Thank you for the tips. I'd really like to see a vid by you, experimenting with that process. There's a company called 'reSawn', and they do scorch/dye. The pix of the end result are phenominal.
Yikes! My mother always told me not to play with fire hahahaha just kidding of course, I will see what I can do. It may take a little bit, as that is a wood finishing process I will need to practice a little more with :) I have done it a couple times, but to make a video on it, I would like to be much more refined in the process...
Thank you for your interest, and for watching!
Do another video of Southern yellow pine with yellow blue red n orange pty please!! Amazing stuff love it!!!!!😮❤
Going to try. Have been trying. Busy making tanks to increase production without sacrificing quality to maintain small batch runs, as well as trying to optimize listings, and find ways to generate sales sigh... I have to do a yakisugi Pink request first from a super thanks, but will work on that. I actually have a video with the yellow on southern pine but is a Shou Sugi Ban for a work bench I did, and I added LED lights for my work surface. It is a great space to work on. I believe it is shown on some listings, but is testing the #dye coloring ;) Dont think followers want to see projects, so have focus on the colors, tips etc 👍. Eitherway, thank you #fam 🙏 ❤️ Will get there. Hopefully with #woodworker options that can be used 🤞 Thank you! 🙏
@@KedaWoodDye Your doin great love the videos and gonna play with the liquid dye today n try a few red n orange hues on my pine box faces. I've been thoroughly pleased with the results so far, best stuff I've used and my customers eyes popped out when he saw his new box. AWESOME product 💯🔥
Great work, I'd like to see how you got that moss green color( second to the left) I can never get that shade of green.
Another video idea thank you! Maybe I just over think these videos and should just do lol 😆 Thank you for watching!
very beautiful colors. Any tips to help me get whites or something for a first sort of white layer?
Memmor I
Wow, I can't wait to try this, thanks!
Wow, you have awesome stains
they are beautiful !
Thank you and thank you for watching 👍 Really do appreciate it!
Have you used isopropyl in the keda dyes?? I bought some recently and someone has told me to use isopropyl to mix in with it.
is there any difference while using acetone instead of lacquer thinner ?
@runs877 not really. Acetone dries super fast, and is slightly thinner, but both would work well. So will denatured alcohol. Thank you for watching
Beginner here. I have the same package of stain powders from Keda. How does one know when to use denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, lacquer thinner, or water?
Nice job!! Can I use these colors in kind of different wood furniture, kitchen cabinets, doors, diner tables, big studios furnitures, etc? And what polyurethane you can recommend for the layer to be more durable? Thank you
I really like the blue
At 18:17 When your holding up the 4 that are almost the same blue and teal blue green how did you get the color on the top piece and very bottom?
Excellent video thank you God bless be safe
Is there some preparation other than sanding and cleaning the surface? How do you avoid blotching, I'm thinking of using water based dye on an alder piece, any tips for me?
Just to be totally honest with you...I haven't done any "Pre-stain", conditioning, pre sealing etc. in quite a while, and don't think I have even got to that in the videos yet (Sorry, running a little behind right now trying to move and all grrrr). I really just give a good sanding with a good quality aluminum oxide sandpaper that is bare wood specific (120 - 220) try not to go higher than 220. Higher than 220 you begin polishing the wood, (which can have some cool effect too if intended, but if not, stay under 220 for sure and probably don't go higher than 180 for alder) 150 grit tends to work the best for me as a standard, unless I get into soft woods, were I may go with a 220, or if I am wanting a specific look on harder wood such as say a Maple. Now there are times that I use a sugar water mix to try and get a cleaner cut on the wood fiber, and even sometimes I add a touch of wood glue to that too, but I usually reserve that for some low grade Pine or something I pulled from the firewood pile lol.
If you do decide to condition the Alder with a wood conditioner, consider cutting it with water by like 25-50%. Many times people do the conditioning process, and the dyes are not able to penetrate the wood as well, and then feel they have to mix the dyes heavier. Then there are some that even get upset because the wood grains are all uniform and do not contrast, but that is the purpose of the conditioning process. To reduce light and dark areas. It is these areas that often create a lot of the depth and definition of the wood finish, so it really can depend on the look you are going for. Then there are...well, the less inferior coloring products. There are some pretty nasty coloring agents on the market that, yes, if you don't condition the begezus out of the wood, these wood coloring agents will make the wood look wonky. Sometimes will look wonky no matter what you do 🤷♂️ Best thing to do if you can, is use a drop of piece to test your finishing process. This will give you the best idea as to what YOU like in your wood finish target 😉 Otherwise, take your time on the sanding. A good prep is the base to your finish, but even more critical to the wood prep is the wood itself. Of course the wood dye or wood stain will play the largest part of the wood coloring portion of a wood finish, but a good prep sand can truly do miracles to the wood. Hope that helps my friend...and thank you for watching 👍
Awesome work! Thank you for sharing your technique. Have you ever work these dyes on Plywood? I have a little project using plywood luan panel. Do you think I would get similar results?
I have tried them on plywood and they work great. I made some shop benches out of plywood, and was sampling a mohagany type color. I did seal the colored plywood with a harder poly though for a more durable finish. It really did turn out beautiful, but here is the samples video I did before coloring the benches: ruclips.net/video/-1s2AiDpgec/видео.html
How does gluing them together effect the dye? If you were making a single color project, with multiple pieces. Would you glue it first then dye it, or dye it then glue it? I can imagine pros and cons to both methods.
It really can vary based on the project itself, how much holding power needed, etc but I typically will prep the wood with the sanding, then dye, then seal (unless I plan on sealing all at once, or am not wet sanding and buffing out each one), then glue. Sometimes though, I need more holding strength, where then I will sand to like a 150 grit, do my dying and glue work, (then say a quick prayer, start a sacred chant, hoping I cut them all even, and glue them all flush hahaha) then when I clamp them together carefully wipe off any excess glue squeeze (where you learn to get quite good at not over doing glue I might add lol) then wait til the glue dries. If all goes well, seal em all up at once (which also helps bind them all together too), but if glue did squeeze through, I typically take an exacto knife, try to cut as much out as I can, then evaluate if it needs hand sanding, and touch up work on the dye after the glue is sanded off. If it does, then I simply sand the glue out by hand, then go over with the dye again in that area and feather it in. Heck, sometimes, I even sand back more than I need to, like the whole board at times (just enough to try and even the board out) then just go over the entire board with the dye again. Now something like this, I would just keep the glue more towards the bottom (unseen side), and wouldn't go above the 1/2 way point. I hardly ever get any squeeze out on my good side then. When the glue squeezes, it will squeeze above the half way point, covering about 80 - 85% so I still get pretty good holding power, plus like I said before the sealer binds themselves together as well, especially after a couple coats ;)
Hope that all makes sense... Thank you for watching! :)
Why do you say to mix the dye right before you use it? I ordered the powders two packs and mixed some into water as soon as I got them and they have been on my shelf in my shop for about three months now. I just used them for the first time and they are wonderful! I just used a water bottle for each color and still they look wonderful.
Jo Flores oh yeah they will last quite a while actually after they are mixed. Heck I have some dye stain mixes that are over 3 years old already that I still use. I will even toss a little powder dye in to freshen it up a bit here and there. I do a lot of videos showing color formulas, and how to get different wood dye colors, so I have to mix them in many of the wood dye videos to show the ratios and how it looks. Heck I have even mixed the powders as a concentrate with a tsp of purified water, mixed the dyes into that then added an ounce of 91% rubbing alcohol and made them like a dye concentrate ;) I do want to do several other types of videos, atop of the wood colors, and hopefully with the summer quickly approaching it will allow me a little extra time to get some together...thank you so much for watching, and for the comment 👍
I am really interested in changing my oak cabinets. I am willing to bleach them and then dye them. These beautiful colors seem to be put on already light maple. What can you tell me about dying oak cabinets? (That horrible 90's style).
This looks great! I have been experimenting with Keda Powder dyes in order to plan for a snare drum project that I am pursuing. I have been mixing the powder with water and when I try to layer two different colors the second color activated the dye previously used and mixes with the first color and doesn't layer. Is the key to the layering process the use of laquer thinner or denatured alcohol? I
Ummm the colors will layer, meaning to apply the dye colors in an effort to slightly modify the dye color beneath. If you want the wood dye colors to be totally different, meaning totally separate wood colors, then one, you could skip laying the base dye color down beneath the second dye stain color, or two, layering like in this video would be an option as well: ruclips.net/video/FbKWm4rqSXk/видео.html
I am just thinking aloud here, but if you try layer another color on top of another color, without trying to actually change the color, wouldnt just the top color be seen? If that is the case, then you may want to consider just leaving the wood bare for the 2nd dye color to be applied? I am not sure exactly what you are trying to accomplish, so I may be confused on what you are asking? If so sorry for my confusion 🤷♂️ but thank you for watching :)
how about the yellow over pine? does it end up looking honey colored?
I know I really need to get back to making videos, plus I was actually getting used to it a little more. The yellow can look like a honey/amber color, but you have to mix it more towards the recommended ratio. The yellow in this video I believe was 1/4th tsp in 6 ounces denatured alcohol. Mixing the liquid yellow dye heavier will look more like the darker grains on the yellow boards. You can modify the wood dye colors quite a bit just modifying the mix as well as the wood sanding ;) Thank you for watching 👍🏻
How much of the denatured alcohol did you mix?
Now how in the world can I get my deck that teal color and what would it look like with a little white wash over it?
Hi! This dyes does it work with stabilized resin in the vacuum tank?
Yes quite well actually 👍🏻
Excellent videos! Would it be possible to use parts for a video about this subject?
Congrats on your channel.
Absolutely. Thank you 😊
fucking awesome bro... just found your keda webstie and i ordered the $55 pack of dye.... can't wait to get my hands on it!!!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!
excellent info
How would you sand to prep the wood for dye?
Please come back with more videos we miss your commentary.
If I want to do the really light blue, you said 10 drops of blue in 2oz of denatured alcohol. I am trying to get that color with the powder dye and 91% rubbing alcohol. What ratio dye to alcohol do you recommend?
Brandon Charles 10 drops in 2 oz pending on wood. Maybe 5 -6 for a pine etc. The powder would be similar, but maybe say half of 1/8 tsp to 2-3 ozs can always just add a little more RA if it goes darker. Again there are variables or differences pending on wood, sealer, prep work, imported wood, presealers or not, saps/sugars/oils in wood, moisture levels etc. but should get you pretty close. Wood finishing is much more of an art form than a science. Is not an easy Q&A many times. Hope that makes some sense
@@KedaWoodDye thanks for your quick reply. So I can do what you call a "sand back" with the rubbing alcohol? I don't have sand paper but my wood is pre-finished and sanded. I'm sure it's nice enough to dye, but it sounds like multiple light layers is the way to go!
@@brandoncharles4781 yes you could do a sandback with rubbing alcohol base. All the rubbing alcohol will be, is to be a tranfer agent to get the dye to the wood fibers in order for the dyes to do their job. Some reagents do work/mix better with the liquid dyes, meaning the liquid dyes mix better with high content alcohols, lacquer thinner, acetone etc than they would with water (powder dyes like a splash of water/moisture to open up) etc. but is basically used to get the wood dye to the wood for coloring and that is about all. Should be just fine. You typically wont do a sand back unless you have a figured wood you are trying to pop figure out of. Hope that makes sense.
These pieces look awesome when finished but just curious what you then use the finished products for?
Annony Mouse this was for a picture background for taking pictures and having a colorful background. I could just hang in out the wall I guess too, because I just can't stop staring at it. It was supposed to go back down in my shop, but I have it on my breakfast bar right now, cause although it sounds weird, it like gives me energy when I eat my breakfast. Maybe it is all in my head hahaha...
Annony Mouse If I really wanted too, I can router them into picture frames, or even cut then down and turn them into pens, but I needed a backdrop for some photography classes hahaha cause we all know I need them ;) hahaha
This is really cool, I am getting ready to put in a wood floor and I am trying to think if there is a way that I could piece in random planks that have a unique color instead of just doing the same color across the entire floor. The tricky part is that I would have to be able to sand the colored plank at least a little bit so that it was completely flush with the adjacent boards. It would look cool to have random colored pieces though I think.
Annony Mouse OMG! That would look SO AWESOME! do the sanding first, then you can take a small piece of rag and just wipe the dye on the boards you wanted colored. If you tape off the next board the dyes will not run into the next board since they are separate planks. That would look so amazing! You HAVE to send me pics if you do pretty pretty please 🙏🏻:)
I would think the dye would bleed under the tape wouldn't it? I thought maybe dyeing the wood planks really good first and THEN placing them in the floor might work better and keep the lines really sharp. I will have to play with it but that is my thought. Will have to see if I can pull it off though.
I LOVE your voice
Can i use it on a painted wood?
Use a sharpie next time and write what you did on the back. I know how Wisconsin benders can make the memory go.
Bilbo Baggins hahaha I cannot agree more. You may want to see this video: ruclips.net/video/pfWik9_HTYs/видео.html
It is exactly like you say, if I don't write it down, winter tends to freeze it right out of mind or the binders can make one say was that 2.0 grams or 0.20 grams I tried writing bahaha. You Rock!
U rock!! Thx. Inspiring!!
nice colors bro.
Todd Vierra thank you :)
Where do you get the curly maple wood from?
Personally I get my curly maple from a local lumber yard...Krueger lumber in valders Wisconsin, but that is me. I also need to buy so many (250bft) board feet and specify the wood I am looking for. Gets pricey for certain woods that only makes up 1% - 5% of a tree if looking for a specific wood type. Hope that helps :)
Type of wood?
I just order a powder kit from your web site to mix to my tung oil with a emusilfier maybe acetone etc.
wanting to make a teal can you elaborate on the ratio you used
More so the lighter teal color is what I'm after but would prefer not to have sand back the color. Using this on a vase that will be harder to sand all the detail. Have you tried mixing the colors initially instead of layering?
imma do this to my stock for my bolt action shotgun
Crustyhoe oh yeah! That will be awesome!
just finished my shotgun stock. it came out nice teal greenish.
Need more light
I like your videos but they could be improved with a better light so we could see the process.
Dang, I hope you didn't actually eat all that Cheese Whiz! The ingredients in your dyes are probably more nutritious than the Cheez Whiz!
You really need better lighting at your work area if you're gonna do YT videos. I would very much enjoy watching if I could see it better. Not trying to hate, just some constructive criticism.
😴
Cockadoodledoo folks bahahahahahaha. Do you think I have what it takes for the big money of sleep relaxation vids? Be honest now 😉🥰😂