Whilst I was in college, I spent two summers working highway overpass re-construction, in my hometown of Syracuse NY, during the mid-80’s. My friend was the son of the Construction company owner, and was the “sand blasting crew” leader. We worked nights, 6nights/wk, 12hour shifts, from 6pm to 6am, on actual in-use highways - the bridge decks were 3-4 lanes wide - the approach was to close off 1/2 the bridge deck, having a 4’ Jersey barrier separating the work zone from the open/live traffic lanes… lanes in which there would be 18 wheelers driving 75mph, literally 3ft away from where you are blasting, causing the bridge deck to vibrate and noticeably move/shake nonstop. The industrial strength sandblasting rig itself was an 18wheeler set-up, consisting of a flatbed trailer with a huge Iingersol-Rand Diesel engine attached to a giant compressor that fed a huge silo-like pressure vessel. Prior to getting to the job site, we’d spend a hour fueling the Tractor and the Diesel compressor rig, as well as checking out the piping, valves, O-rings, hoses, graphite nozzles, protective hoods, (personal air supply feeds, the helmet/hood communications gear, plexiglass shields that protect the glass facial guards in the hood/helmet setup, etc) plus we had to inspect the pressure vessel and clean out any moisture and sand clumps that accumulated. We’d then go up into the sand silo itself to inspect the sand-drop valves (this was a bit nerve racking in that you’d respirator-up and climb the tower ladder to enter the sand silos, rig up into a harness, well aware that you may have to venture out into the elevated sand field to break loose clogs of wet sand that are blocking the chute. Once the pressure vessel was full, you’d exit out of the silos, insure the vessel is sealed and locked, then rock-roll to that nights job site. From early May to EOM July (Football practices commenced in early August), 72hrs/wk@$40/hr, for 11 wks, earned in excess of $30k each summer, for what was truly bat-shit crazy, back-braking and mind-numbing physical labor of the worst kind, yet it was also cool in that at age 18-19, you were pretty much trusted to take on some very critical/dangerous work…
I'm proud of you. Most teens that age are confused about if the genitals match their feelings daily and you took on a hell of a job. It teaches you to appreciate the easier work later in life. We all had to pay our dues. Not every kid gets a medal in real life. Now they do I guess. Idk it's all so confusing to me.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 you should put down the cable news and back away slowly if that’s what you think. How many teens today have any opportunity to make that kind of money, even 40 years later? You can thank your political fan clubs for hollowing out the working class.
@@tacotruck2595 If a 18 yr old goes in blue collar, welding, plumbing and pays his dues for 2 years or so he'll make way more than that. It's up to them. If they apply themselves and really want it, it will be had. A kid flipping burgers won't. The way things are a apt in my area in the country is 650 plus. And that's 650 times 3 with deposit, 1st, last month's etc. Insanity. All cause oil and gas showed up and they could afford to pay that no problem. I don't watch cable or news. I work in the trades and alot of my peers and family and friends do. They all make 6 figures. Pipeline, coal mine etc.
HAH, not quite that long. That is 3.6 times longer than this hair growth. I go from 0 to Homeless pretty quick. Indeed it is the same Scamp! I'm sorry about all the rust..
For anyone that is into DIY and wants some real rust removing power, nothing beats one of these pressurized pot blasters. This video showed how useful they are and the modifications he made. Brilliant ! Cheap to buy and easy to use.
I used it to blast every single square inch of an entire 1961 Chevy pickup (I have a playlist...), inside AND out of every single piece of the truck. Doors, floors, frame, suspension, everything. YES! It's totally doable. YES, your brain will atrophy in the process. YES, it's also kinda therapeutic. YES, it felt like it took forfreakingever. It was still WAY cheaper than "paying the man," AND I get to keep the blaster. Win/Win/Win all around. Very happy I bought it. Does it show?? (grin)
@@GregWellwood a wee tip to help grit feed into the line.. I have a smaller pot diy'd from a recycled air cylinder & had issues with grit compacting in the pot.. I flow all the air in the bottom & loops out the top to feed the pickup at the bottom.. the air flow acts as a bubbler to agitate & fluff the grit.. I use pumice sand free from an old quarry.. leaves a beautiful natural satin sheen to Ali.. a note on compressor "ratings".. they "rate" a compressors flow @ 90psi on its INTAKE volume at the working pressure.. NOT it's outflow.. while the tools are "rated" for their air flow COMPRESSED outflow pressure.. bit of a Con job ! .. so use 6x atmospheres (14.7psi) to calc what your continuous compressor pressure flow would be @90 psi out that most rated tool use, or factor thereof
Well... There we go, Sir! You've earned my sub/follow/whatever. This was great stuff and you remind me of MY old shop teacher, some 35 years ago. I held an awesome friendship with Mr. Tom Butler until he passed from COVID complications at the ripe age of 96. You have that same camber and flow he did... It made him special. You never felt like Tom was talking down to you as he explained things. It's a lost art of teaching and storytelling, being able to pass knowledge by words without droning. Well done!
I have been running the bigger 20 gallon model, for two years. I ran 3000 lbs of 50/100 Enviro Grit glass thru it in one summer. I'm blasting log buildings on a big property by myself. Word of advice, upgrade to Princess Auto 6320005 gun and hose that fits it. And "Always" make sure the hose is straight as possible off the pot. At 7:26 the "crazy device", Do Not use brass to replace. I had that part and the hose both fail at the same time and I got blasted in the foot. My boot saved me but was destroyed, and it blew about 20 lbs of media 30 ft out the bottom before I could shut off the air. Granted I use a rented 185 CFM diesel air compressor @60 PSi. Your setup or mine, a blow out can cause life altering injuries. Best way to stop clogs is always close bottom mixing valve when filling. Fill and pressurize tank then slowly open bottom mixing valve while opening blasting tip. Stay Safe Eh!
I did change to a big cast iron T not too long after this video went up - I wasn't totally comfortable with the brass. I'd imagine a 185cfm blow-out turning this into a sand-powered bottle-rocket!
This is an excellent job of explaining this device to a clueless newbie like me !! They should sponsor you !! Very thorough and i will take ALL your advice up. Thanks again !!
If you want to get every ounce of goodness out of your media, find or build about a 2' - 3' tall stand for your sifting element (whatever it may be). I use a stand from a long-dead table saw. When you sift your media you can actually separate the broken down media from the still-useful media by positioning a regular box fan to blow the lightweight stuff aside as it drops to the ground. It's a little tricky to get it right but, once you've got it, it will help keep your media at a far more effective level than just recycling the ruined media along with the stuff that's still good. And those cheap blue poly tarps HF used to give away are the perfect, no heartburn tarp for catching blast media.
Glad I found your channel. I had a shop/mechanic class in high school. My teacher had a wealth of knowledge and could have made more money but he loved to help others .
You, sir, are a crack! We do not have 'shop' in Australian schools, mores the pity. But if there was, half a century ago, I would have appreciated your fast paced, informative and humorous approach. As I do now.
I’ve used brass ball valves as you have instead of the deadman. They do wear out and leak due to the abrasive material going thru it under pressure particularly if you don’t open it fully. Don’t use it to regulate your flow. Still better than the deadman. Enjoy your videos, can’t wait to see the finished truck.
The scary part is the brass T at the bottom of the tank. Imagine what's going to happen when the abrasive wears through it on the outlet side - an uncontrolled expulsion of media. It would probably be better to use hydraulic fittings instead of plumbing/pneumatic. Princess Auto has a whole bunch of hydraulic fittings made of 12L14 which are much thicker and stronger than low pressure fittings.
@@pixiepaws99 you will be able to tell when the valve wears out . they just don't explode. I've been using a pot blaster for 30+ years, and had to change out a few valves. Yes the abrasive does a number on the valves , but you can tell . They will not shut off completely, still leak air, or they are hard to manipulate. Time to check and change them out.
If you blast with glass WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RRESPIRATOR because once the glass particles is in your lungs it is there to stay forever.
I went to school for auto tech probably the same time you were in school. I had 3 amazing shop teachers and mentors. I truly think the world of them. They put good ideas in my head and money in my pocket for over 20 years now. It obviously isn't a contest but I think you could beat all of them in an arm wrestling match and probably get a date with at least two of their Mom's.
Wet blasting, also known as vapour blasting gives metal more of a satin/shiny kind of finish depending on the grit, great post processing after sand blasting and gives a beautiful finish. We use it on the cast aluminium car/bike parts after repairs and welding, the parts come out like brand new from the manufacturer, very desirable surface finish by a lot of customers.
Great point! I wear form-fitted earplugs pretty much ALL the time in the shop, and when blasting I use a Miller Welding half-mask respirator. I've added that to the video description.
If you buy glass beads that are “Free-Range”, “Organic” and “Gluten-free” you will be ok. For 3 weeks! After that, get a hood! Yes. Buy the way, earbuds with AC/DC playing at level 9 will cause tinnitus also. But with tinnitus you will hear a high-pitched screeching noise when awake and the sound of water running. So, very soothing! Remember, loud radios sell lots of car parts & labor. Good for shops so don’t tell anyone! An 8-9 man dealership shops has a 110 decibels noise level as well, same as a 747 at take-off.
awesome. I think this works great at home. One thing to note for commercial work, where a blast profile needs to be a specific depth, but also profile: re-using blast media makes for a more rounded profile on the base material. This can lead to poor adhesion. This matters in things like internals on pressure vessels on tanks. I've seen it come off in sheets due to re-use of sand on a rounded blast profile in metal. Stick to new sand if it needs to stick in a tough environment.
When you operate the lever on the pot and it 'pukes' out of the nozzle like water, it's called 'CHOKING' the pot and it's done to clear blockages or damp sand coagulating in pipe or valve 👍
Your clogs are caused by moisture at the mixing point. I owned a sandblasting business for years. I used an industrial compressor, and a 500lb pot. It was basically the same in operation as your little one. My setup went through 500 lbs and 5 gallon of gas/ hr. When the compressor air heated up the moisture clogging quit happening. Also humid days were more difficult with clogging.
Great video, very informative. I restore vintage tools and other metal objects. i’ve been looking for a sandblaster for a while, and I believe I’m going to go with something that’s similar to your set up. Thanks for all that info...
Thanks for the awesome video! I bought one of these used and assumed I'd be able to figure it out, but I was wrong! With your video I'm much more confident that I'll be able to do it.
Yesterday I wanted to blast two brake calipers prior to overhauling and painting, we have a small pot blaster which I had never used. I hooked up the small pot to the workshop compressor and tried it running at 80psi, my nozzle is an airline fitting, say 4 millimeters, and the results were perfectly acceptable on small parts.
i got mine last week, ive just got to build a coupling for my resovior tank tomorrow that i picked up (my compressor needed some assistance :D ), then im good to go, thanks for your advanced tips. really helpful for some extra insight
Great videos! I built a blasting cabinet to help with the restoration of my 1962 Chevy C10 (for wheels and other small parts), and started with plexiglass and then Lexan (but lasted a few hours), and ended up using glass (got about 20 hours per pane). Not sure glass would be good for a hood, but thought I’d mention it. Your videos give me hope for my restoration project. Thanks!!
Awesome! My blast cabinet uses glass only, for the longest life. I've thought of glass in the hood, but the flexibility of the plastic and the soft edges compel me to stick with plastic in the hood.
@@GregWellwood Believe it or not, I finally just stopped replacing my blast cabinet's view port window altogether. With two hands holding the work, I really don't need to see what I'm doing. An occasional inspection is enough to ensure a good outcome. I did toy with the idea of building a box like structure and raising the blast cabinet view port to a nearly vertical plane which, theoretically, would keep most rebounding media from striking it with enough energy to blast it. Thoughts?
@@GregWellwood TP tools in canton OH sells plastic film that covers the view port and protects the glass window from the abrasive. It cheap, easy to install and replace. Though you do really have to take care to really get the glass spotless when replacing the film. The film would easily work in a helmet.
What a great review, you gained another Canadian subscriber. The critical point is the 5HP compressor, with a flow rate well above anything that runs on 120V. I bet a lot of the negative reviews are from people who don't have the right compressor.
Good video Greg! Lots of info there which I know is learned over some frustrating learning the hard way. Hopefully this saves some people the trouble we've all had!
Loose that nozzle and replace it with eigth inch pipe. And run a halfinch air hose supply too it. Talk about night and day difference. Great video keep em comin
You're on a different planet with that beast! You can run multiple blast pots with it. A large pot with 1-1/2 inch hose could run a 3/8 nozzle easily. Your productivity is off the chart. Use that power wisely my friend
I removed the air gun and syphon from my sandblast cabinet and used that with a 5 gallon pail of crushed glass. Cost was the blast media alone. Worked great.
I had a mobile set up on a truck . My pot was for bi carb media was great for removing anti fouling off boat hull ,also used to run garnet through it best abrasive ever . 350 cfm duetz compressor 100 psi at nozzle 1 1/2 inch hose with a 3/8 -1/2 inch Venturi nozzle blastthe spots offa Dalmatian 100 feet away 😅
I just got one, screw top. I was already planning to add a gate valve to the inlet, but i think I'll replace the annoying tap underneath with a longer arm version and do the valve mod at tye business end too. Thanks for the tip on pressure and tip size. I chewed through a 50 lb bag of fine garnet way too fast. I had the regulator wide open, but my big compressor couldn't keep up, and equilibrium was about 30psi. I will make a cabinet for sure and investigate cheaper media types. Cheers :-)
At 5:30, you can buff those face shield clear the same way they do auto headlights, or just do a quick 600+ grit wet sand and spray bomb them with clear coat... Makes em as good as new, except for their longevity (Course I was in a hurry and hit them with one coat of cheap spray can clear and a heat gun).
Have you ever considered using packing tape in strips on the center part of the plastic where the blasting media hits? I am going to try that and see if it works. If it does all you got to do is peel of the tape strips and replace them then go to it. Probably wont work but who knows, worth a try.
The biggest issue with blasters is to match the nozzle to the compressor, the size of the tank is basically irrelevant, it all has to do with the nozzle, psi is going to be a direct relation to efficiency, you running down below 60 psi is very inefficient (compared to someone doing this for money) . The ground glass is great for the application… all in all this is a great home job., just keep up on your nozzle..
Something you might want to change out is your rubber hose. I've been using a hydraulic line, and it's far superior to the rubber and has fittings on the ends. You won't regret it. Picked mine up at Northern tool.
Yeah man the same last thing is great. They got all over my picnic table everything is sliding everywhere. It worked great for titanium knife skills. Thank you for taking the time sir. I used 70/40 grit from the cheap harbor freight one with a 3 gallon compressor it took a minute because I had to wait for it to build up air pressure. I guess for knife skills I was tapped blasting and. I would like to go on full force like you were on that hood. Yeah I need a box and shit went everywhere , lol. All in all I think this is great for anything that needs paint removal except for interior homes. It would be great there though I’ll tell you what I’d love to use it in someone’s house or somewhere we could if it was needed me
Cheap guy here. I cover the plastic (vision) screen with plastic kitchen wrap. Easy to do and protects the plastic screen nicely. This also works on the glass pane in my cabinet blaster.
Great information. As well as saving money by doing it yourself, there's other spinoffs. Sure, it may take a lot longer than paying someone who may do it in a fraction of the time, but there's no other feeling when you stand back after doing it yourself and getting that self-satisfaction. You are also building your skills for future projects so even more cost savings down the track. It's always that balance between spending money to save time, or spending time to save money.
I enjoyed your presentation. My experience with blasting was exactly like yours, except I was using a siphon blaster and sand. Even slower than this unit.
You’re Canadian. I’m Canadian but I’ll bet you’re not located in Ontario. I watched your upgrades to your sand blast cabinet. I’ll bet you are using Princess auto glass beads as media to blast. I say that because of all the flour that is blowing around your cabinet. Yes I do the same. Use it till there is nothing left. It does give stainless steel a lovely finish though. You might consider getting rid of the ball valve on your gun in favour of a foot valve. Much more betterer. On off at the push of a toe. And the “gun” is much less bulky. I have an all steel cabinet that is a bit smaller. I also recommend a piece of laminated glass in the viewing port and sandwich that with a much thinner piece o& clear glass underneath and on the inside layer. The thin piece is way cheaper to replace as will happen when after blasting larger parts the glass will eventually get cloudy. Usually because the items I have in my cabinet are a kitties closer to the glass and the media tends to bounce. Nice deal you got on the lathe. Gear head lathe very cheap. Good for youz. I wasn’t aware of there being any “shops” in high schools any longer. In my day we had 2 well equipped machine shops, 2 auto shops, 2 woodworking shops with the thickness planer some stock and other machinery in a large room between the shops. We also had a basic electricity shop on the main floor with the electronics shop and lab on the 3rd floor. Then there was the tin bashing shop and at the rear of that was the welding shop. Around the corner were 2 printing shops. And again on the 3rd floor we’re the drafting classrooms, both mechanical and architectural. I might be forgetting something more but it was over 55 years ago. And the computer rooms were still using punch cards and card readers. I’m old. Last time I looked all the machinery from my high school was sold for scrap or dealers who sol$ it to guys like me and you for inflated prices. And you just can’t find a 1940 or50 era Cincinnati universal milling machine anymore from a school. The may have a few dings but they did not have long hours o& production time on them. I did have a lovely French tool room lathe but I didn’t have access to 550 volt power in those days and there were no VFDs to help. Nice channel
Hey Bill, In Rochester,NY we had Edison Technical and Industrial High School offering all the same courses you mentioned. In the '50s when you graduated local businesses would grab you up because of the schools reputation. (PS. The football teams also kicked-ass.)
I know they have commercial versions with a vacuum function built in, but being the thifty fellow I am, I'd opt to run a funnel around your exit nozzle and tee down to a shop vac to collect your spent media. I'm sure you'd reduce the vac filter's life span by orders of magnitude, but sweeping a hundred pounds of media is a real time burner in itself. Weigh your time value versus effort and maybe allotting for an el cheapo shop vac to dedicate to the system. To do one better, you could also run a cyclone-style dust collector between the vacuum and dump directly into a 5 gallon/20 liter bucket. They don't catch every single particle, but the heaviest stuff drops straight into the bucket, leaving only the junk and smaller particles to collect in your vac tank. Borrowing one other item (not sure what those tips run but I'm guessing they come several to a pack), I wonder if running a hardened steel line through one of your blown out orificed nozzles would be an option. Not sure if brake line would be much better than whatever the stock option is, but it'd be a handy way to just swap out an add-in line on the fly. Ceramic seems to wear better in high friction applications, but that sounds like more work than its worth.
It sounds stupid, but if you take a paper clip and unfold it into a t-shape inside your t fitting, you won't get any more clogs. I think the reason it works is because the sand tries to form a clog, in the process increases the pressure. I think the wire basically causes the clog to slice itself in half. It doesn't work with a perfectly straight tee, it has to be a cobbled together mess of a paperclip. I'm assuming that The Little Bends oscillate because of the air.
Do you have a picture of what this would look like? I'm having a hard time picturing it, and can't find any other websites that document it. I'd like to give it a try.
@@GregWellwood just take a paperclip and make your best impression of an IUD. Slide it in the top of the t fitting sort of like a drywall anchor, so the two legs end up in the two arms of the t fitting. That friction will be enough to hold it in place. Again you have to have it bent up. If you make the same thing with welding wire it will not work. You need the funky bends that come from unfolding a paperclip. I'm pretty sure the reason it works is the air pressure forces it to oscillate which breaks up any chunks
When I was sand blasting, I used a 400cfm compressor at about 160psi to 200psi. 600 pounds of sand lasted about half an hour or a little more. I did not have a dead man, but there was a man at the pressure pot just in case. The helmet was like a space suit with positive pressure air. Sometimes I did it in -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. The tip was worn out to about 5/8 of an inch. I could blast a D8 in about an hour. A 4x8 sheet of steel in 5 or 10 minutes to white metal, depending on what I'm removing. Like comparing a fire hose to a pencil. Still, I would like to have one of units for smaller projects.
That "crazy device" (minute 7:24) you refer to is a venturi which is designed to pull a small amount of media into the airstream. The tee you swapped in can work but may not be as effective.
Thanks man great video, I have to blast my 36 ft steel sailboat,am just at the beginning of my research, you are the very first video am looking and I will get Cote from professionals people to do it to but I don't have a clue on the cost, probably $$$$ 😊
Did you end up doing it and what compressor do you have? I’m doing the rear in my 82 Monte and wonder if I should just knotted wire cup it on my angle grinder.
Clearly..... you need to take on a project and put those tools to good use! I support you! I even used mine today to blast one of the inner fenders and the front bumper! (grin)
Mom And what is happening? I bought this jeep on Harbor Freight today after I try to analyze some knife skills, titanium. They kinda look good but there was a couple spots that just weren’t driving with me. So I bought 5 pounds of media and this little tool worked really really good. I was impressed except the mess I should have done it in a cardboard box with plexiglass over top. I would recommend using new cabinet because the media went quick and it is not Cheap
I made my blast hose longer . I purchased bulk A/C hose. can't remember the size but was cheaper than buying the Blast hose. I've had really good luck with it been using it over 20 years ,without a failure.
the issue with these things is it is more about how big (good) your compressor is rather than quality of the blaster. I know he says he has a 5HP one, but that is a lot of compressor money so unless you are doing a lot of repeat work the economics of home sand blasting often do not stack up when the compressor is included in overall cost .
There's a few good videos about making a smaller, 15lb,25lb blaster out of a old helium bottle etc. That's what I did for the small to medium jobs. I have a small 5hp and it runs it well. I use about 12 lbs. That's enough to do a set of rims, 100% 2 fill ups. And depending on what media. Walnut hulls are soft, coal Slag will eat away diamonds. Looks like it was shot 20 rounds of 12 gauge bird shot. But primer sticks like a MoFo.
White labeling is a legal protocol that allows one product or service to be sold and rebranded under another company's brand. The term "white labeling" is used based on the manual process whiting out something previously written to write over again.
Keep an eye on the condition of that ball valve, it won't take long for the abrasive to change the shape of the inside of the valves brass. You'll be fine generally, but it will wear a lot faster than you'd guess.
I was playing more with my used marketplace unit and decided to blow the hose out as well and I was shocked as I took the nozzle off and just blew air from the compressor and wow a huge amount of wet sand came out that obviously would have plugged the nozzle up several more times so my conclusion is that each time I finish using it I will take the nozzle off and blow the sand out of the host as well
I run the hose and gun inside a sand blast cabinet and look thru the window . Almost all my automotive parts fit. It keeps the abrasive and dust contained and is cleaner as I have a vacuum hooked up. Maybe similar money to the hood and all the other safety gear; but I actually had the cabinet first so it was not a consideration in my case. I like walnut shells, found that my equipment last longer and the shells do a good enough job for the parts I clean up. I also use a wire basket sieve to clean up my media. Bought mine did not steal the wife's.
I Have a ten gallon pot! it works just fine but I need a booth for blasting my small boat engines eg 2 Cylinder Kuboto and other small two cylinder engines I now have a professional cabinet I want to get it all up and running however I am just waiting on an op on my hip. All your tips are fine with me. Thanks.
IR 2-stage 5hp v-twin 16gallon, 14.5cfm. Simple water separater, and a home-made cooler of about 15 feet of 1/2" copper pipe zig-zagging up the wall of my compressor shed. Buy the biggest compressor you can afford and electrically feed (I really wanted a 7hp, but did not have the electrical "start-up current" for it).
One big problem with sandblasting at home...water. As you are happily blasting away your compressor is busily condensing water out of the atmosphere and dispensing it downstream, after a while sufficient amounts of water will work their way to blasting pot and cake up your blasting media, this usually occurs around the media valve at the bottom of the pot meaning you have to strip it off and clean out the caked up media, this you will have to do at an ever increasing rate as the moisture level rises. The only solution is to use something called an air dryer, these come in three basic types; Refrigerated, Desiccant, and the air cooled compressor after cooler type. Any serious amount of blasting makes using an air dryer absolutely mandatory, trying to blast without is a futile venture!
we need more people like him in the world.. Excellent presentation and very informative. Packed with good information. Thanks for posting..
Whilst I was in college, I spent two summers working highway overpass re-construction, in my hometown of Syracuse NY, during the mid-80’s. My friend was the son of the Construction company owner, and was the “sand blasting crew” leader. We worked nights, 6nights/wk, 12hour shifts, from 6pm to 6am, on actual in-use highways - the bridge decks were 3-4 lanes wide - the approach was to close off 1/2 the bridge deck, having a 4’ Jersey barrier separating the work zone from the open/live traffic lanes… lanes in which there would be 18 wheelers driving 75mph, literally 3ft away from where you are blasting, causing the bridge deck to vibrate and noticeably move/shake nonstop. The industrial strength sandblasting rig itself was an 18wheeler set-up, consisting of a flatbed trailer with a huge Iingersol-Rand Diesel engine attached to a giant compressor that fed a huge silo-like pressure vessel. Prior to getting to the job site, we’d spend a hour fueling the Tractor and the Diesel compressor rig, as well as checking out the piping, valves, O-rings, hoses, graphite nozzles, protective hoods, (personal air supply feeds, the helmet/hood communications gear, plexiglass shields that protect the glass facial guards in the hood/helmet setup, etc) plus we had to inspect the pressure vessel and clean out any moisture and sand clumps that accumulated. We’d then go up into the sand silo itself to inspect the sand-drop valves (this was a bit nerve racking in that you’d respirator-up and climb the tower ladder to enter the sand silos, rig up into a harness, well aware that you may have to venture out into the elevated sand field to break loose clogs of wet sand that are blocking the chute. Once the pressure vessel was full, you’d exit out of the silos, insure the vessel is sealed and locked, then rock-roll to that nights job site. From early May to EOM July (Football practices commenced in early August), 72hrs/wk@$40/hr, for 11 wks, earned in excess of $30k each summer, for what was truly bat-shit crazy, back-braking and mind-numbing physical labor of the worst kind, yet it was also cool in that at age 18-19, you were pretty much trusted to take on some very critical/dangerous work…
that was a good read. i'm from syracuse also. now in denver.
I'm proud of you. Most teens that age are confused about if the genitals match their feelings daily and you took on a hell of a job. It teaches you to appreciate the easier work later in life. We all had to pay our dues. Not every kid gets a medal in real life. Now they do I guess. Idk it's all so confusing to me.
mid 80's making 40$ an hr, holy molly, here in tx, its a bit lower
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 you should put down the cable news and back away slowly if that’s what you think. How many teens today have any opportunity to make that kind of money, even 40 years later? You can thank your political fan clubs for hollowing out the working class.
@@tacotruck2595 If a 18 yr old goes in blue collar, welding, plumbing and pays his dues for 2 years or so he'll make way more than that. It's up to them. If they apply themselves and really want it, it will be had. A kid flipping burgers won't. The way things are a apt in my area in the country is 650 plus. And that's 650 times 3 with deposit, 1st, last month's etc. Insanity. All cause oil and gas showed up and they could afford to pay that no problem. I don't watch cable or news. I work in the trades and alot of my peers and family and friends do. They all make 6 figures. Pipeline, coal mine etc.
This was LITERALLY MY Shop Teacher Guy!! Mind blown, makes sense. Great to 'see' you again Sir.
Wow! You must not have had a haircut SINCE highschool! Good to hear from you! Same Scamp from when I ran across you at the yard?
HAH, not quite that long. That is 3.6 times longer than this hair growth. I go from 0 to Homeless pretty quick. Indeed it is the same Scamp! I'm sorry about all the rust..
For anyone that is into DIY and wants some real rust removing power, nothing beats one of these pressurized pot blasters. This video showed how useful they are and the modifications he made. Brilliant ! Cheap to buy and easy to use.
if you have time on your hands could you see one of these doing a a stripped to the shell old car?
I used it to blast every single square inch of an entire 1961 Chevy pickup (I have a playlist...), inside AND out of every single piece of the truck. Doors, floors, frame, suspension, everything. YES! It's totally doable. YES, your brain will atrophy in the process. YES, it's also kinda therapeutic. YES, it felt like it took forfreakingever. It was still WAY cheaper than "paying the man," AND I get to keep the blaster. Win/Win/Win all around. Very happy I bought it. Does it show?? (grin)
Is the name just Pressure Pot Sand Blaster? I can't find it online
@@GregWellwood a wee tip to help grit feed into the line.. I have a smaller pot diy'd from a recycled air cylinder & had issues with grit compacting in the pot.. I flow all the air in the bottom & loops out the top to feed the pickup at the bottom.. the air flow acts as a bubbler to agitate & fluff the grit.. I use pumice sand free from an old quarry.. leaves a beautiful natural satin sheen to Ali.. a note on compressor "ratings".. they "rate" a compressors flow @ 90psi on its INTAKE volume at the working pressure.. NOT it's outflow.. while the tools are "rated" for their air flow COMPRESSED outflow pressure.. bit of a Con job ! .. so use 6x atmospheres (14.7psi) to calc what your continuous compressor pressure flow would be @90 psi out that most rated tool use, or factor thereof
You could go whole hog and get a clemco, but all sandblasters need one thing, a compressor that can keep up.
Well... There we go, Sir! You've earned my sub/follow/whatever. This was great stuff and you remind me of MY old shop teacher, some 35 years ago. I held an awesome friendship with Mr. Tom Butler until he passed from COVID complications at the ripe age of 96. You have that same camber and flow he did... It made him special. You never felt like Tom was talking down to you as he explained things. It's a lost art of teaching and storytelling, being able to pass knowledge by words without droning. Well done!
I have been running the bigger 20 gallon model, for two years. I ran 3000 lbs of 50/100 Enviro Grit glass thru it in one summer. I'm blasting log buildings on a big property by myself. Word of advice, upgrade to Princess Auto 6320005 gun and hose that fits it. And "Always" make sure the hose is straight as possible off the pot. At 7:26 the "crazy device", Do Not use brass to replace. I had that part and the hose both fail at the same time and I got blasted in the foot. My boot saved me but was destroyed, and it blew about 20 lbs of media 30 ft out the bottom before I could shut off the air. Granted I use a rented 185 CFM diesel air compressor @60 PSi. Your setup or mine, a blow out can cause life altering injuries. Best way to stop clogs is always close bottom mixing valve when filling. Fill and pressurize tank then slowly open bottom mixing valve while opening blasting tip. Stay Safe Eh!
I did change to a big cast iron T not too long after this video went up - I wasn't totally comfortable with the brass. I'd imagine a 185cfm blow-out turning this into a sand-powered bottle-rocket!
This is an excellent job of explaining this device to a clueless newbie like me !! They should sponsor you !! Very thorough and i will take ALL your advice up. Thanks again !!
This is one of the best videos I have seen on you tube. A lot of good information with the feeling he has done this hands on. Great!
If you want to get every ounce of goodness out of your media, find or build about a 2' - 3' tall stand for your sifting element (whatever it may be). I use a stand from a long-dead table saw. When you sift your media you can actually separate the broken down media from the still-useful media by positioning a regular box fan to blow the lightweight stuff aside as it drops to the ground. It's a little tricky to get it right but, once you've got it, it will help keep your media at a far more effective level than just recycling the ruined media along with the stuff that's still good. And those cheap blue poly tarps HF used to give away are the perfect, no heartburn tarp for catching blast media.
Glad I found your channel. I had a shop/mechanic class in high school. My teacher had a wealth of knowledge and could have made more money but he loved to help others .
You, sir, are a crack!
We do not have 'shop' in Australian schools, mores the pity.
But if there was, half a century ago, I would have appreciated your fast paced, informative and humorous approach.
As I do now.
we need more people like him in the world.
I’ve used brass ball valves as you have instead of the deadman. They do wear out and leak due to the abrasive material going thru it under pressure particularly if you don’t open it fully. Don’t use it to regulate your flow. Still better than the deadman. Enjoy your videos, can’t wait to see the finished truck.
The scary part is the brass T at the bottom of the tank. Imagine what's going to happen when the abrasive wears through it on the outlet side - an uncontrolled expulsion of media. It would probably be better to use hydraulic fittings instead of plumbing/pneumatic. Princess Auto has a whole bunch of hydraulic fittings made of 12L14 which are much thicker and stronger than low pressure fittings.
@@pixiepaws99 you will be able to tell when the valve wears out . they just don't explode. I've been using a pot blaster for 30+ years, and had to change out a few valves. Yes the abrasive does a number on the valves , but you can tell . They will not shut off completely, still leak air, or they are hard to manipulate. Time to check and change them out.
If you blast with glass WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RRESPIRATOR because once the glass particles is in your lungs it is there to stay forever.
Silica…it’s the new asbestos
Just use an aqua blaster. Treat the flash rust with any water based converter.
@@Dave5843-d9m it's a pain in the ass to get that sludge washed out of some places on the body. If you don't it will eat metal
Whatever dust you create, don't breathe it. Your lungs are not replaceable...
Hate when my tip is plugged up
Excellent video, im looking to purchase my first sand blaster today and now I feel more confident- and now know I need a hood! Great job!
I went to school for auto tech probably the same time you were in school. I had 3 amazing shop teachers and mentors. I truly think the world of them. They put good ideas in my head and money in my pocket for over 20 years now. It obviously isn't a contest but I think you could beat all of them in an arm wrestling match and probably get a date with at least two of their Mom's.
Wet blasting, also known as vapour blasting gives metal more of a satin/shiny kind of finish depending on the grit, great post processing after sand blasting and gives a beautiful finish. We use it on the cast aluminium car/bike parts after repairs and welding, the parts come out like brand new from the manufacturer, very desirable surface finish by a lot of customers.
Thank you for posting !
The expensive one not on the blaster, but on the compressor. Thanks for this great realistically information.
Thanks, great overview for DIY to keep the cost down, really good tutorial
Great video. Just would like to add, make sure you wear ear defenders (not good for tinnitus)and a good breathing apparatus for your lungs!
Great point! I wear form-fitted earplugs pretty much ALL the time in the shop, and when blasting I use a Miller Welding half-mask respirator. I've added that to the video description.
If you buy glass beads that are “Free-Range”, “Organic” and “Gluten-free” you will be ok. For 3 weeks! After that, get a hood! Yes. Buy the way, earbuds with AC/DC playing at level 9 will cause tinnitus also. But with tinnitus you will hear a high-pitched screeching noise when awake and the sound of water running. So, very soothing!
Remember, loud radios sell lots of car parts & labor. Good for shops so don’t tell anyone!
An 8-9 man dealership shops has a 110 decibels noise level as well, same as a 747 at take-off.
what?
awesome. I think this works great at home. One thing to note for commercial work, where a blast profile needs to be a specific depth, but also profile: re-using blast media makes for a more rounded profile on the base material. This can lead to poor adhesion. This matters in things like internals on pressure vessels on tanks. I've seen it come off in sheets due to re-use of sand on a rounded blast profile in metal. Stick to new sand if it needs to stick in a tough environment.
When you operate the lever on the pot and it 'pukes' out of the nozzle like water, it's called 'CHOKING' the pot and it's done to clear blockages or damp sand coagulating in pipe or valve 👍
Your right what you did changing the bottom, tee, is the Problem with all of the Pressure pot blasters, change that your good to go. Great Video+
I bought mine off marketplace used for 30.00 and you give me hope as I want to sandblast some tire rims and powder coat them
Your clogs are caused by moisture at the mixing point. I owned a sandblasting business for years. I used an industrial compressor, and a 500lb pot. It was basically the same in operation as your little one. My setup went through 500 lbs and 5 gallon of gas/ hr. When the compressor air heated up the moisture clogging quit happening. Also humid days were more difficult with clogging.
You got to run an air dryer with desiccant in it
Great video, very informative. I restore vintage tools and other metal objects. i’ve been looking for a sandblaster for a while, and I believe I’m going to go with something that’s similar to your set up. Thanks for all that info...
Thanks for the awesome video! I bought one of these used and assumed I'd be able to figure it out, but I was wrong! With your video I'm much more confident that I'll be able to do it.
Where did you buy yours from?
Excellent video. You got a new subscriber because of it. This is the exact video I needed to change my blasting ideas into blasting reality. Kudos
Yesterday I wanted to blast two brake calipers prior to overhauling and painting, we have a small pot blaster which I had never used. I hooked up the small pot to the workshop compressor and tried it running at 80psi, my nozzle is an airline fitting, say 4 millimeters, and the results were perfectly acceptable on small parts.
Bought me a camping tent to work in. recycle my sand eazy vac. keeps it all in 1 place.thank you for sharing 👍
i got mine last week, ive just got to build a coupling for my resovior tank tomorrow that i picked up (my compressor needed some assistance :D ), then im good to go, thanks for your advanced tips. really helpful for some extra insight
Great videos! I built a blasting cabinet to help with the restoration of my 1962 Chevy C10 (for wheels and other small parts), and started with plexiglass and then Lexan (but lasted a few hours), and ended up using glass (got about 20 hours per pane). Not sure glass would be good for a hood, but thought I’d mention it.
Your videos give me hope for my restoration project. Thanks!!
Awesome! My blast cabinet uses glass only, for the longest life. I've thought of glass in the hood, but the flexibility of the plastic and the soft edges compel me to stick with plastic in the hood.
@@GregWellwood Believe it or not, I finally just stopped replacing my blast cabinet's view port window altogether. With two hands holding the work, I really don't need to see what I'm doing. An occasional inspection is enough to ensure a good outcome.
I did toy with the idea of building a box like structure and raising the blast cabinet view port to a nearly vertical plane which, theoretically, would keep most rebounding media from striking it with enough energy to blast it. Thoughts?
@@GregWellwood TP tools in canton OH sells plastic film that covers the view port and protects the glass window from the abrasive. It cheap, easy to install and replace. Though you do really have to take care to really get the glass spotless when replacing the film. The film would easily work in a helmet.
What a great review, you gained another Canadian subscriber. The critical point is the 5HP compressor, with a flow rate well above anything that runs on 120V. I bet a lot of the negative reviews are from people who don't have the right compressor.
Good video Greg! Lots of info there which I know is learned over some frustrating learning the hard way. Hopefully this saves some people the trouble we've all had!
Thanks. Wish I had checked out blasting earlier for a project I did. But now I know more.
Loose that nozzle and replace it with eigth inch pipe. And run a halfinch air hose supply too it. Talk about night and day difference. Great video keep em comin
Once you get above 50 CFM (like with a diesel compressor) and a 3/16 nozzle, it's like a whole different world.
What size nozzle do you recommend using with a (new to me) LeRoi 375cfm Cat turbo diesel rotary screw compressor?
You're on a different planet with that beast! You can run multiple blast pots with it. A large pot with 1-1/2 inch hose could run a 3/8 nozzle easily. Your productivity is off the chart. Use that power wisely my friend
I removed the air gun and syphon from my sandblast cabinet and used that with a 5 gallon pail of crushed glass. Cost was the blast media alone. Worked great.
I had a mobile set up on a truck . My pot was for bi carb media was great for removing anti fouling off boat hull ,also used to run garnet through it best abrasive ever . 350 cfm duetz compressor 100 psi at nozzle 1 1/2 inch hose with a 3/8 -1/2 inch Venturi nozzle blastthe spots offa Dalmatian 100 feet away 😅
I just got one, screw top. I was already planning to add a gate valve to the inlet, but i think I'll replace the annoying tap underneath with a longer arm version and do the valve mod at tye business end too. Thanks for the tip on pressure and tip size. I chewed through a 50 lb bag of fine garnet way too fast. I had the regulator wide open, but my big compressor couldn't keep up, and equilibrium was about 30psi. I will make a cabinet for sure and investigate cheaper media types. Cheers :-)
At 5:30, you can buff those face shield clear the same way they do auto headlights, or just do a quick 600+ grit wet sand and spray bomb them with clear coat... Makes em as good as new, except for their longevity (Course I was in a hurry and hit them with one coat of cheap spray can clear and a heat gun).
Have you ever considered using packing tape in strips on the center part of the plastic where the blasting media hits? I am going to try that and see if it works. If it does all you got to do is peel of the tape strips and replace them then go to it. Probably wont work but who knows, worth a try.
I got quite a few laughs from your video and also learn a lot. You're actually a very funny person.
The biggest issue with blasters is to match the nozzle to the compressor, the size of the tank is basically irrelevant, it all has to do with the nozzle, psi is going to be a direct relation to efficiency, you running down below 60 psi is very inefficient (compared to someone doing this for money) . The ground glass is great for the application… all in all this is a great home job., just keep up on your nozzle..
Something you might want to change out is your rubber hose. I've been using a hydraulic line, and it's far superior to the rubber and has fittings on the ends. You won't regret it. Picked mine up at Northern tool.
Fantastic video! Thanks for all your efforts and showing the upgrades/mods you did.
Excellent presentation and very informative. Packed with good information. Thanks for posting.
Well that was a blast to watch.
Yeah man the same last thing is great. They got all over my picnic table everything is sliding everywhere. It worked great for titanium knife skills. Thank you for taking the time sir. I used 70/40 grit from the cheap harbor freight one with a 3 gallon compressor it took a minute because I had to wait for it to build up air pressure. I guess for knife skills I was tapped blasting and. I would like to go on full force like you were on that hood. Yeah I need a box and shit went everywhere , lol. All in all I think this is great for anything that needs paint removal except for interior homes. It would be great there though I’ll tell you what I’d love to use it in someone’s house or somewhere we could if it was needed me
Cheap guy here. I cover the plastic (vision) screen with plastic kitchen wrap. Easy to do and protects the plastic screen nicely. This also works on the glass pane in my cabinet blaster.
This is a really good tutorial, with lots of tips and tricks. Thank you for sharing.
Great information. As well as saving money by doing it yourself, there's other spinoffs. Sure, it may take a lot longer than paying someone who may do it in a fraction of the time, but there's no other feeling when you stand back after doing it yourself and getting that self-satisfaction. You are also building your skills for future projects so even more cost savings down the track. It's always that balance between spending money to save time, or spending time to save money.
I enjoyed your presentation. My experience with blasting was exactly like yours, except I was using a siphon blaster and sand. Even slower than this unit.
You’re Canadian. I’m Canadian but I’ll bet you’re not located in Ontario. I watched your upgrades to your sand blast cabinet.
I’ll bet you are using Princess auto glass beads as media to blast. I say that because of all the flour that is blowing around your cabinet. Yes I do the same. Use it till there is nothing left. It does give stainless steel a lovely finish though.
You might consider getting rid of the ball valve on your gun in favour of a foot valve. Much more betterer. On off at the push of a toe. And the “gun” is much less bulky.
I have an all steel cabinet that is a bit smaller. I also recommend a piece of laminated glass in the viewing port and sandwich that with a much thinner piece o& clear glass underneath and on the inside layer. The thin piece is way cheaper to replace as will happen when after blasting larger parts the glass will eventually get cloudy. Usually because the items I have in my cabinet are a kitties closer to the glass and the media tends to bounce.
Nice deal you got on the lathe. Gear head lathe very cheap. Good for youz. I wasn’t aware of there being any “shops” in high schools any longer. In my day we had 2 well equipped machine shops, 2 auto shops, 2 woodworking shops with the thickness planer some stock and other machinery in a large room between the shops. We also had a basic electricity shop on the main floor with the electronics shop and lab on the 3rd floor. Then there was the tin bashing shop and at the rear of that was the welding shop. Around the corner were 2 printing shops. And again on the 3rd floor we’re the drafting classrooms, both mechanical and architectural. I might be forgetting something more but it was over 55 years ago.
And the computer rooms were still using punch cards and card readers. I’m old.
Last time I looked all the machinery from my high school was sold for scrap or dealers who sol$ it to guys like me and you for inflated prices. And you just can’t find a 1940 or50 era Cincinnati universal milling machine anymore from a school. The may have a few dings but they did not have long hours o& production time on them.
I did have a lovely French tool room lathe but I didn’t have access to 550 volt power in those days and there were no VFDs to help.
Nice channel
Hey Bill, In Rochester,NY we had Edison Technical and Industrial High School offering all the same courses you mentioned. In the '50s when you graduated local businesses would grab you up because of the schools reputation. (PS. The football teams also kicked-ass.)
I know they have commercial versions with a vacuum function built in, but being the thifty fellow I am, I'd opt to run a funnel around your exit nozzle and tee down to a shop vac to collect your spent media. I'm sure you'd reduce the vac filter's life span by orders of magnitude, but sweeping a hundred pounds of media is a real time burner in itself. Weigh your time value versus effort and maybe allotting for an el cheapo shop vac to dedicate to the system. To do one better, you could also run a cyclone-style dust collector between the vacuum and dump directly into a 5 gallon/20 liter bucket. They don't catch every single particle, but the heaviest stuff drops straight into the bucket, leaving only the junk and smaller particles to collect in your vac tank.
Borrowing one other item (not sure what those tips run but I'm guessing they come several to a pack), I wonder if running a hardened steel line through one of your blown out orificed nozzles would be an option. Not sure if brake line would be much better than whatever the stock option is, but it'd be a handy way to just swap out an add-in line on the fly. Ceramic seems to wear better in high friction applications, but that sounds like more work than its worth.
Very informative ‼️Like his style and pertinent input from experience ‼️I am subscribing ‼️
Wow. I really needed to learn about this type of blaster. Thanks alot
It sounds stupid, but if you take a paper clip and unfold it into a t-shape inside your t fitting, you won't get any more clogs. I think the reason it works is because the sand tries to form a clog, in the process increases the pressure. I think the wire basically causes the clog to slice itself in half. It doesn't work with a perfectly straight tee, it has to be a cobbled together mess of a paperclip. I'm assuming that The Little Bends oscillate because of the air.
Do you have a picture of what this would look like? I'm having a hard time picturing it, and can't find any other websites that document it. I'd like to give it a try.
@@GregWellwood just take a paperclip and make your best impression of an IUD. Slide it in the top of the t fitting sort of like a drywall anchor, so the two legs end up in the two arms of the t fitting. That friction will be enough to hold it in place. Again you have to have it bent up. If you make the same thing with welding wire it will not work. You need the funky bends that come from unfolding a paperclip. I'm pretty sure the reason it works is the air pressure forces it to oscillate which breaks up any chunks
@@jpsimon206 Thanks. I'll give it a go!
When I was sand blasting, I used a 400cfm compressor at about 160psi to 200psi. 600 pounds of sand lasted about half an hour or a little more. I did not have a dead man, but there was a man at the pressure pot just in case. The helmet was like a space suit with positive pressure air. Sometimes I did it in -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. The tip was worn out to about 5/8 of an inch. I could blast a D8 in about an hour. A 4x8 sheet of steel in 5 or 10 minutes to white metal, depending on what I'm removing. Like comparing a fire hose to a pencil. Still, I would like to have one of units for smaller projects.
if you keel over and die what difference would it make if the sandblaster keeps going till out of sand?
Very good video! I never knew about glass media or how the blaster works. Your experience will save a lot of learning!
AMEN Brother! Patience is a virtue and it cost less than a rat on adrenaline.
That "crazy device" (minute 7:24) you refer to is a venturi which is designed to pull a small amount of media into the airstream. The tee you swapped in can work but may not be as effective.
Thanks man great video, I have to blast my 36 ft steel sailboat,am just at the beginning of my research, you are the very first video am looking and I will get Cote from professionals people to do it to but I don't have a clue on the cost, probably $$$$ 😊
That intro … spoken words of truth, and a hint of creepy ! 😁 fantastic haha!
I'm thrifty and save old spark plugs and use the ceramic for tips. All kinds can be made to work from small chain saw plugs to Ford V8.
Love your videos! I was just researching one of these to strip down my Ford 9" housing.
Did you end up doing it and what compressor do you have? I’m doing the rear in my 82 Monte and wonder if I should just knotted wire cup it on my angle grinder.
Your video is excellent for the operation
Excellent video, very helpful!
Thanks for a very informative video. The tips from your experience are fantastic. Cheers
I knew this video was going to be good when the guy making the video looks like Walter White. Excellent video thank you
Great and informative presentation!
Great job often thought about one of these, just have too many tools and can't justify it without a major project like your truck.
Clearly..... you need to take on a project and put those tools to good use! I support you! I even used mine today to blast one of the inner fenders and the front bumper! (grin)
Great video presentation style . Informative ( could be a little more brief but hey ☺️)and clear.
Mom And what is happening? I bought this jeep on Harbor Freight today after I try to analyze some knife skills, titanium. They kinda look good but there was a couple spots that just weren’t driving with me. So I bought 5 pounds of media and this little tool worked really really good. I was impressed except the mess I should have done it in a cardboard box with plexiglass over top. I would recommend using new cabinet because the media went quick and it is not Cheap
Great video where did you find your screen and what size
I made my blast hose longer . I purchased bulk A/C hose. can't remember the size but was cheaper than buying the Blast hose. I've had really good luck with it been using it over 20 years ,without a failure.
the issue with these things is it is more about how big (good) your compressor is rather than quality of the blaster. I know he says he has a 5HP one, but that is a lot of compressor money so unless you are doing a lot of repeat work the economics of home sand blasting often do not stack up when the compressor is included in overall cost .
There's a few good videos about making a smaller, 15lb,25lb blaster out of a old helium bottle etc. That's what I did for the small to medium jobs. I have a small 5hp and it runs it well. I use about 12 lbs. That's enough to do a set of rims, 100% 2 fill ups. And depending on what media. Walnut hulls are soft, coal Slag will eat away diamonds. Looks like it was shot 20 rounds of 12 gauge bird shot. But primer sticks like a MoFo.
Great video brother! Please add a parts list and links.... pretty please :)
White labeling is a legal protocol that allows one product or service to be sold and rebranded under another company's brand. The term "white labeling" is used based on the manual process whiting out something previously written to write over again.
Keep an eye on the condition of that ball valve, it won't take long for the abrasive to change the shape of the inside of the valves brass.
You'll be fine generally, but it will wear a lot faster than you'd guess.
Can't wait for part 2!
Thumbs up,good presentation style,enjoyed the transfer of experience.
LOL! Thank you for those ending remarks.
Nice clear explanation
do you think i could blast my pool plaster with this setup ?
Thanks dude. just what I was looking for. However. a few seconds of seeing you use it would have been nice too.
Ask, and you shall receive: ruclips.net/video/b-ZTxM1bpIk/видео.html
Why not attach a vac at the base of the sandblasting nosal?
I was playing more with my used marketplace unit and decided to blow the hose out as well and I was shocked as I took the nozzle off and just blew air from the compressor and wow a huge amount of wet sand came out that obviously would have plugged the nozzle up several more times so my conclusion is that each time I finish using it I will take the nozzle off and blow the sand out of the host as well
I run the hose and gun inside a sand blast cabinet and look thru the window . Almost all my automotive parts fit. It keeps the abrasive and dust contained and is cleaner as I have a vacuum hooked up. Maybe similar money to the hood and all the other safety gear; but I actually had the cabinet first so it was not a consideration in my case. I like walnut shells, found that my equipment last longer and the shells do a good enough job for the parts I clean up. I also use a wire basket sieve to clean up my media. Bought mine did not steal the wife's.
Sir, you forgot to states the model of the sand blaster, thanks
I mention that it is the same unit that everybody sells. Find the cheapest one near you.
Can you use walnut shells for this?
I Have a ten gallon pot! it works just fine but I need a booth for blasting my small boat engines eg 2 Cylinder Kuboto and other small two cylinder engines I now have a professional cabinet I want to get it all up and running however I am just waiting on an op on my hip. All your tips are fine with me. Thanks.
Excellent video Sir! Thanks for sharing! Any chance I could get decent results using this type unit with my 5.2 SCFM / 200 psig compressor?
I'm wondering the same thing. I got a 7 scfm compressor at 175psi
Omg.. when he said unless your into "hardcore exfoliation" I busted out laughing. Choked on my damn drink.. great review man
What type of air dryer do you recommend?
Great video! Also your cabinet video 👍
What air compressor setup do you have? Hp, tank, filter/dryer system and cfm?
IR 2-stage 5hp v-twin 16gallon, 14.5cfm. Simple water separater, and a home-made cooler of about 15 feet of 1/2" copper pipe zig-zagging up the wall of my compressor shed. Buy the biggest compressor you can afford and electrically feed (I really wanted a 7hp, but did not have the electrical "start-up current" for it).
One big problem with sandblasting at home...water. As you are happily blasting away your compressor is busily condensing water out of the atmosphere and dispensing it downstream, after a while sufficient amounts of water will work their way to blasting pot and cake up your blasting media, this usually occurs around the media valve at the bottom of the pot meaning you have to strip it off and clean out the caked up media, this you will have to do at an ever increasing rate as the moisture level rises. The only solution is to use something called an air dryer, these come in three basic types; Refrigerated, Desiccant, and the air cooled compressor after cooler type. Any serious amount of blasting makes using an air dryer absolutely mandatory, trying to blast without is a futile venture!
When I plumbed my shop air, I was particularly careful in plumbing it to reduce the amount of moisture that could get in the lines.
amazing video, teacher!
Nice video. But you didn't say what gun you are using. I would like to ge one as well. Thanks
The gun is what it came with, just altered.
Super helpful descriptions. Thank you.