Just use sandblast sand, you can get fine or course. And put a valve on your pick up tube, so you can adjust your flow rate, and set it to use as little as possible to get your optimal performance. We used to do “hydro sandblasting” in heavy industrial, you can tune in your equipment.
@@carlythedog2648 hes onto the right idea but in reality it won't work these cheap washer attachments need the flow to work properly start choking the flow and it will clog way more than it dose to start with why don't he show the amount of times he's to adjust the pickup pipe and how long he's spent unclogging it? I can tell you why if anyone uses the link he will receive a cut :\
@@carlythedog2648for these cheap setups, you can use tape over the beveled end. Mess around with covering some of the intake hole making sure to keep the angle of the intake hole and securing the tape well so that it doesn’t get drawn up the pipe. I usually tape off about half and it uses much less sand.
@@carlythedog2648 ours was just a little ball valve at the top of the pickup tube where it met the hose. You have to put it as close to the pickup port as possible, you can not put it on the pressure washer side or the hose will jam up. We used a very fine sand and just jammed the metal tube into the bag of sand, sitting in a wheelbarrow with a plastic tarp over it, if the sand gets wet it’s party over… you want to meter the amount of sand that flows through is all, it is pulled through with air until it reaches the water flow. You could cover the end of the tube part way with tape, or bend it flatter with a hammer, but if you change the style of sand you have to figure it all out again, so a little ball valve is best, start with it closed and open slowly until you see it working. Best to have a friend work the valve so you can keep the pressure washer going until you find the setting you like.
You can reuse the sand, I've done it - my pressure washer sand blaster worked like a charm on my truck frame. Might need to pour it through a screen, but it only takes a minute. Also, invest in a big ass tarp from Harbor Freight, makes saving the sand and clean up a snap.
If you are doing parts like this tailgate or individual panels, I have a cheap Amazon pop-up paint tent that would probably work well to contain all the used sand. I probably wouldn’t use it for paint after, depending on how the cleanup went, but the tent on a large tarp covering the ground in front of the opening would probably contain almost everything
yeah i did my whole truck once, just screen out the other garbage with a window screen material, the sand will actualy get finer and stop working as well
Bare metal will typically flash rust with wet blasting. There is a product calles Hold-tite that can prevent this and leaves no residue so it can be painted over. It's typically required with vapor blasting and ultrahigh pressure waterblasting.
@@NaztyNate Silica dust microparticles (from silica sand causes irreparable damage to lung tissue ovet time, similar to asbestos fibers entering the lungs) see the warning label on the bag.
I worked at a marina in a previous life. We used wet sand blasting to clean and prep boat bottoms and running gear for anti-fouling paint. It works great; there is virtually no dust like dry blasting and I think it is a bit more gentle on the parts being blasted, but you do end up with a pile of sand.
they switched to Walnut shells at the boatyard i occasionally worked at, scrubs nasty barnacles and bottom paint right off. it didn't clean underwater gear as well but it knocked the sealife off.
What if you don't want the bottom prepped for bottom paint, but want old bottom paint removed? I'm guessing baking soda, but where do you buy pails of it?
My dad bought one back in the late 80s or early 90s to use on boats at the marina. I remember that it was $400 because it was new tech and it had a special ceramic nozzle that doesn't wear out like the one in this video will. Of course, his will last for most of his projects because he probably won't use his like one at a marina. Switching to walnut shells is also great way to go. For small, delicate jobs you can use baking soda.
@@hoobeydoobey1267My dad bought five gallon buckets of baking soda from a restaurant supply store. The first time he called they couldn't understand what a marina would need all that baking soda for. 😄 The difficult part about using baking soda is keeping it dry in humid weather. Also, to take a boat bottom back to original condition is not an easy task because gelcoat is porous. Bottom pain stains the white gelcoat. We never had a customer want or need to do that but if you did the only way is with a gelcoat peeler. It's basically an electric planer that grinds off a very thin layer at a time. It has a vacuum attachment to help with the enormous mess it makes. We would rent a giant industrial vacuum when we had to use it. After removing the gelcoat, you prep the fiberglass and apply new gelcoat. It has to be one of the worst tasks at the marina. Fastener removal is probably a close second.
@@Jonathan.D Thanks for that detailed info. I'm really just wanting the bottom pain removed so the boat has less drag on trailer bunks and water. Looks like crap on the boat as its old. Just want it gone. Doesn't have to look like new, fresh from the mold.
The nozzle in my kit has a "0" in the casting. I presumed it stood for size 0 sand blasting sand from the auto parts supply shop. It worked perfectly. I layed a large tarp on the grass in the spot I did the blasting. Used collected sand for making concrete projects.
I call bunk on this toy. I bought it, could not find Med. Sand anywhere, went and got Med. Grit Black Diamond. That thing clogged constantly and fed inconsistently. It was really good at removing the weak paint but left pock marks on the good paint. It took me 60 grit on a sander to remove the pock marks. I'm still sanding to get that project paint ready.
An interesting project for you I did years ago on that Dodge Ram tailgate. I had an '85 Ram, took the tailgate off, cut the center section of the inside of the tailgate out (side inside the bed) cut out the letters "Dodge Ram" and glued in white plexiglass on the inside of the lettered half of the tailgate and placed bits of metal from the tailgate like the center of the "D" and "O" etc and stuck those to the plexiglass so it basically looked like it does now. Then put some red LED's inside the tailgate with a wire lead, put tailgate back together, paint, install, wire and it makes one hell of a brake light. It really looked awesome on my Ram.
Get a water trough or other large container and cover it with a tent. That will allow you to keep the media (sand) from getting everywhere and even dry it out for use again. Be sure to use safety equipment like a respirator or even a sand blasting hood.
If using actual "sand" you should look for plaster sand, it is a finer and more closely screened product and widely availible. (It may be in the tile and drywall section of the store, but is also availible by the ton from many quarries.) it is used for texture and filler in plaster and plaster-like concrete wall finishes, as well as tile grout. Also popular are ground up nut shells(softer than the metal for less wear, walnut is most common), baking soda or dry ice are popular in air blasters but wouldn't work with water, and at the other end of abrasive hardness is silicon carbide which might be good for stuff like millscale or smoothing/etching stone. All availible in various grit sizes of course.
Please!!! Do not use plastic sand without a recovery system. I hate to be a stick in the mud but that would be horrible for your surrounding environment. Your street storm drains in to rivers and plastic sand would disrupt everything around you including your drinking water.
Looks like using the sand with the pressure washer works well (I might have to try it). However, beware if you are sandblasting without water you should ensure that you do not breath the dust created as it can cause silicosis. Many countries have banned the use of normal sand for sand blasting and alternatives have to be used e.g. garnet.
Yes, garnet is the ideal blasting media, it does not have silicate in it that causes lung cancer, get it for about $15 for 35 pounds, and you can let it dry in the sun filter it and use it over and over, Garnet for wet or dry blasting.
@@huckwild1 the introduction of water sequesters the dust particles and cuts down on particulate inhalation immensely. You're right though, some will still be in the air and it's a good idea to use a mask regardless.
I used nickle slag, a by product of nickle mining. It is more malable than the silica sand, so you get less pitting and the dust is not as toxic as the silica sand....the slag goes by the brand name of Green Diamond here in Oregon
I’d put a small kids pool under the item to be Sand blasted or build a wooden structure with a soft membrane (avoid splatter) to re capture the water, sand and debris being blasted. It could be recycled again and again. When done allow the sun to dry out and clean up.
Oh also it works a hundred percent better if your pickup tube is over your shoulder so it enters the nozzle flow at a down angle keep your pickup tube above the wand for proper suction and no backwash
When I was 18 years old, back in 88 I was a painter and we sand blasted whole buildings. Dude it sucked… imagine the cleanup for a whole house. That thing is pretty cool I’m gonna get one. Thanks for making this
@@dc6233 yeah you’re totally right. Weird how we take things for granted. Like life will always feel free. Teams of government a$$holes over the years have made so many new laws since then.
@@dc6233I wouldn't trade it for the world. I've heard the phrase "just the right amount of technology" used to describe the times pre-smart phone, Google, social media etc. I couldn't agree more. We actually DID things instead of being parked in front a phone all day, living vicariously through others and their facades.
*Sandblasting isn't done with beach, construction, or landscaping sand. Which is what you used. It is a super fine, consistent silca. (Which is all glass specs). You should have nothing less than a P100 on and full monogoggles. It is not to be messed with. Silicosis is serious.*
But it looks like it worked! AND he doesnt have silica all over the spot where he lives. I will use fine play sand since 1, its readily available, 2. its non toxic, 3. it cheaper
First the sand must be very dry. Then I take a screen from a screen door and sift the sand, that ends a lot of issues with plugging and feed. To go cheap a ton of washed sand is about $12 at a pit near me, screen it before use and it works great. To store my unused sand I put it in unsealed five gallon pails in my air conditioned basement utility room to keep it dry.
The way I did my 55 apache was I lined my entire garage wall with plastic sheet from home depot and blasted in there, it was easier to grab a shovel and load the wet sand into buckets that way and plastic goes in the trash
Sweet I bought one of those off Amazon warehouse for 10 bucks open box. I never tried it. Honestly I forgot I had it. I’m glad it works. I love your ram. It’s beautiful.
I think the prep directions are right in the name: sand-blasting. As in: sand will blast everywhere (definition of blast) and so the prep is a containment curtain. Live and learn.
Thanks. I am ordering one for lawn furniture and small projects. Thanks to your COMPLETE review of issues I will set up a tent with a sand run off collection so I can reuse it for other light weight projects.
I used one of those 10' x 10' pop up shades (cheap at Walmart) and clipped some heavy translucent plastic sheeting (comes on rolls in a box) to contain most of the sand. Wet blasting is great and safer than breathing that dust!
if you invest in a couple canvas drop cloths they will catch sand and drain water. you can dry the sand and rescreen it and blast with it again. tractor supply has actual media for 11 bucks a bag of different sizes as well. been looking at these and planed to grab one and use with my sand blasting rig for a dustless option. for future reference plan ahead so the sand can remain like a corner of the yard. dont forget phosphoric acid to prep the metal and convert the surface rust that will develop in seconds. a leaf blower makes quick work of drying frames too
how do you keep it from rusting? I use a air sandblaster. Have been for 50 years. biggest problem is surface rust . how do you dry the part and paint it after you have removed the paint and exposed the metal?
You can build a trap to catch the wet sand and save yourself some money and cleanup. Also, make sure to wear protection and a respirator when sandblasting to protect your skin, eyes and lungs.
Thanks for the demo and the tip on the Quikcrete medium sand. That sand is screened and kiln dried so I bet it worked well with no clogs. The sand delivery hose needs to be on top of the spray wand not hanging on the bottom or water could get into the sand delivery tube and clog it so I am told. Looked like it worked really well for you with a moderate pressure washer.
@LSSWAPTHEWORLD710 also crushed walnut shells. There's also a process called soda blasting where you more-or-less use banking soda. There's lots of different abrasives that can be use. All depends on what your blasting.
Thank you for this video! I did blasting as part of my shop, it soon became a backyard beach. I got free silica sand and screened it and dried it on a big wood stove to keep using it many times. Those bags get expensive real fast! Silica sand is a danger though... for dry blast you must have a respirator and a pressure hood to be safe.
Correct Matt. My lawn looked like crap and the ground was as hard as concrete. A landscaper told me to spread sand all over the lawn as it helps break up the soil for the grass roots. It does help.
You're right I think when you see all that shit built up it makes you forget it's sand and not salt I was gonna comment something luckily I read first 😂
Keep in mind that sand destroys bearings. I don’t know how it does it but it gets to them somehow. I’ve seen it a hundred times. The only way I would sandblast my trucks frame would be take off the body and take apart the chassis. Unless I wasn’t going to keep the truck for very long. But I would never do it like this
I used to do a lot of sandblasting and what I did was made sure I stayed in an area where to be swept up sifted and reused. In the case with the pressure washer you could also sweep it up and let it dry out sift it and reuse it. Thanks for the info on the part I'll probably order one now.
i use my Powe washer for sandblasting all the time when it is time for clean up i do one of two methods wait till sand is dry use a coal shovel and save sand or wait till dry and use leaf blower and blow onto naboring properties
If you can get it I recommend using garnet can't remember spec on size but it would really do a great job on the body panels but would probably be a bit more expensive. I've sand blasted and painted 10+yrs so you definitely do not wanna let it get wet at all if ya can help it and wear a respirator also. If you can do the blasting inside a make shift enclosure then you can reuse the sand easily a few times over once you let it dry back out completely.
You almost need some kind of enclosed bay or booth to do this. I think if you had a booth similar to a spray painters booth, you could reuse the sand for other sand blasting projects.
I used to put a big tarp over the bed and cab of my truck and do my (dry) blasting in the bed. That way I could dump the abrasive (thru a screen) back into the bucket when I was done. 😁
Try black diamond blasting material. I think even tractor supply has it Much sharper, comes in different grades and is reusable to a point. Always use a respirator.
Another good type of sand or Glass beads you can use is for water wells (sand for putting in wells ) it's pretty cheap and you can get variouse sizes and it's always quality and very dry if kept properly .
If you want it to pick up he sand better , and own a compressor hot glue a small air line around the bottom with tiny holes , use a regulator and try some low pressure like 1 bar or so , it will fluidize the sand .Cheers .
I have a cheap Harbor Freight blast gun with round white plastic sand holder that screws onto the bottom. Was about $29 5 years ago and works pretty good with black oxide media. My compressor has a 35 gallon tank and does cycle a lot when using it, so this might make sense for large areas. The black oxide is MUCH CHEAPER when purchased from Tractor Supply than Harbor Freight, but not sure if usable with this wet blast method?
I have sand blasted car parts before and doing the dirty work over a large tarp, recovering the sand and sifting through a widow screen reduces how much sand you have to buy, also keeps the mess controlled
I get pool sand from my local Home Depot. It is really fine though. I wonder if play sand would work. It's screened a little larger grit. I've got to get one of these.👍
Also I'd just sand blast in my back yard! Then take a rake and flatten it in the grass! Won't hurt a thing! Or build a plastic green house that's lined with 6-10mil plastic inside so you can vacuum up the sand and reuse it!
Awesome info man!!! Also, for anyone looking into DIY sandblasting, this is by far your best choice. In order to run a air compressor sand blaster ($70 gun) you need at least 30-50+ gallon compressor tank. You’ll need a air/water separator on the compressor on in line with the hose. And you need about 30CFM. Long story short: you’re gonna have to spend about $1,000-3,000 on a compressor that can flow that much air. For the pressure washer method, you need at least 3,000PSI but I would bet 1,800-2,000PSI would cover most light work. For example, dirt bike engine cases.
I picked up a nice short pressure washer wand from Harbor Freight I really like, and there's on that looks identical to it on Amazon but it costs about ten bucks more. They also sell a two piece tube set that allows you to have a straight or angled wand or connect them both for a longer reach with an angle. This has been handy to make it longer and angled to wash the top of the cab of my truck or up into wheel wells or the undercarriage, then just remove the tubes for other stuff. Their foam cannon works well too, but that's off subject. It however does tip over kind of easy if it's not full.
I imagine looking at the sand all over your yard and in the garage it will also be in the vehicles air filter drive shaft joint disc and drum calipers past oil seals amazing stuff sand and water under pressure gets everywhere.
in the future try 40/70 crushed glass , youll love it . I own a mobile sandblasting business in CA although my machine was 40 grand , the functionality is similar .
You ain’t lying! At the end of a humid day of blasting I could almost see the fine surface rust growing back it was happening so fast. Definitely coat the raw metal with something protective as soon as you’re done blasting it. 👍
lay pastic or tarp down to catch sand after water drains pull tarp up at the corners and let sand dry completely in the sun then reuse bonus minimal cleanup
I’ve used one before and just left the sand in the bag, poked a hole in the top and stuck the tubes down in it. This keeps the sand from getting a mist into it.
If you cant find nothing but that play sand then dump the sand through a window screen and it will work 100 times better. I have never used a pressure washer sand blaster but a normal one it works good. The fact there is no dust cloud to kill your lungs is a big bonus too.
If you are not wanting to collect and reuse the sand do the job on the grass and then it will be assimilated into the lawn and can be a form of top dressing.
That sandblast nozzle needs to be in the 12 o'clock position at all times, water will clog the pick up if in any other position. A valve to regulate the sand is an excellent set up. Water & sand is an instant clog up in the nozzle
I bought a camping tent for my work shop to recycle my sand I did all my small projects. Soda & sand blasting. Clean Ups a breeze.happy blasting. Work smarter not harder 👍
I just use play sand from HD and sift it with a fine kitchen strainer first and run it through a HF sand blaster with my air compressor. For small jobs only; it uses a lot of compressor air. About the garage, I'd blow it out with the air compressor and wait for the rain :).
The sand in the grass can be a real mess too, best to water it in, lots of spraying / rinsing the grass (or wait for a lot of rain) to get it down to the soil. Before that happens, you'll be picking up sand in your shoes and bringing it in the house and everywhere else. But I do love this tool.
Lmao. Bull!!! Ask any landscaping company, sand is a top soil and is great for growing your grass thicker and stronger. Rich green grass grows best in a sand lume.
I rented a large diesel powered two behind compressor with sandblaster to do a 1964 El Camino. Body completely stripped and off frame, took about 4 hours but would never do it again.
I have use crushed glass and it works well, but if you’re going to do parts I would set up a tent in the street by the storm drain the water goes down the drain then you just shovel up the sand and recycle it It , it works amazingly. Well, it’s just the clean up is a pain in the ass
What I do is I have some screen for window screening and I wrap it over a five gallon bucket and pour the sand slowly into the bucket, the finer sand goes through the screen and the bigger rocks stay in the screening, simple ,fast and works great and super cheap to do
Two things. What kind of PSI does the pressure washer need? The easy way to deal with the sand is to let it dry and take a leaf blower to it. I do this in my garage from time-to-time. Start at the back and blow everything out the door...
I've found using my air compressor and the blower attachment to clean up light weight dirt (or your sand) from the garage floor. Start at the back and blow it all out the door.
probably using sand blasting sand would work perfectly. I can get some here at my local hardware store. It's not silica sand, it is specifically for sandblasting and I use it in my air powered sandblaster. Thanks for this idea.
I got the same thing. It works great. An just a lil tip i let everything dry an i use my backpack blower an blow everything off. That seems to be the easiest way.
Make a tent to do your sandblasting in to stop it from going everywhere. The sand in the grass won't harm anything, unless there is something in the surface you are stripping that would kill the grass, like oil and grease
Could it be that you mounted the metal feed pipe upside down? It looks like the purpose of the second section of pipe is to keep the inlet end from bottoming out, which would starve the feed.
I love how this product saves You all the Time not having to wait for the Steel to Rust after You just Normally Sand Blast something. So why is this product good? It makes it really hard to recycle the sand like with a normal sand blaster. I gave You a thumbs up for the effort and the Lug Nuts.
Done this but used air compressor with sand tank and water blast on the 2 inputs.That works even better. Maybe tarps or old eg plastic metal cattle type tub to catch the sand? A lot better rhan dusty dry sandblasting this is. Next project..a vapor blasting tank for smaller parts.
Sounds like a method of containment has to be thought out. Maybe canvas sheets draped over the areas behind the places being de-surfaced, soft to take the velocity out of the sand, to keep the sand local and easier to trap later? There’s got to be an easy way to clean that sand for re-use?
I had problems with flash rusting from the moisture. It was a truck frame so I just epoxy primer it then painted. Never had bad results after 10 years.
@@NaztyNate Might be your location compared to mine. I'm in Kentucky where the humidity can easily be 99% in the summer. Either way well worth the $30.00. I used fine black slag.
Was thinking same thing. A lot less cleanup and money saver when it comes to media costs. Key to using a stripper is to cover with a plastic sheet while stripper properties go to work.
Seemingly great tool. I went to the link to purchase it and learned in the reviews that my pressure washer is not strong enough for this tool. Lowest p.s.i. I saw mentioned in the reviews was 4500 p.s.i. Mine is 2300, 😢
Just use sandblast sand, you can get fine or course. And put a valve on your pick up tube, so you can adjust your flow rate, and set it to use as little as possible to get your optimal performance. We used to do “hydro sandblasting” in heavy industrial, you can tune in your equipment.
where did you put the valve on the pick up tube? do you have a pic?
@@carlythedog2648 hes onto the right idea but in reality it won't work these cheap washer attachments need the flow to work properly start choking the flow and it will clog way more than it dose to start with why don't he show the amount of times he's to adjust the pickup pipe and how long he's spent unclogging it? I can tell you why if anyone uses the link he will receive a cut :\
@@carlythedog2648for these cheap setups, you can use tape over the beveled end. Mess around with covering some of the intake hole making sure to keep the angle of the intake hole and securing the tape well so that it doesn’t get drawn up the pipe. I usually tape off about half and it uses much less sand.
@@carlythedog2648 ours was just a little ball valve at the top of the pickup tube where it met the hose. You have to put it as close to the pickup port as possible, you can not put it on the pressure washer side or the hose will jam up. We used a very fine sand and just jammed the metal tube into the bag of sand, sitting in a wheelbarrow with a plastic tarp over it, if the sand gets wet it’s party over… you want to meter the amount of sand that flows through is all, it is pulled through with air until it reaches the water flow. You could cover the end of the tube part way with tape, or bend it flatter with a hammer, but if you change the style of sand you have to figure it all out again, so a little ball valve is best, start with it closed and open slowly until you see it working. Best to have a friend work the valve so you can keep the pressure washer going until you find the setting you like.
My local blasting supply does not sell sand, it's considered a health hazard
You can reuse the sand, I've done it - my pressure washer sand blaster worked like a charm on my truck frame. Might need to pour it through a screen, but it only takes a minute. Also, invest in a big ass tarp from Harbor Freight, makes saving the sand and clean up a snap.
yes normal sandblasting keep using it until it is too slow
If you are doing parts like this tailgate or individual panels, I have a cheap Amazon pop-up paint tent that would probably work well to contain all the used sand. I probably wouldn’t use it for paint after, depending on how the cleanup went, but the tent on a large tarp covering the ground in front of the opening would probably contain almost everything
yeah i did my whole truck once, just screen out the other garbage with a window screen material, the sand will actualy get finer and stop working as well
Play Sand is cheap, safe, and abundant. I would not use concrete sand. You can get other blast media at Tractor Supply.
@@naturaljoe759 Or just lay down a huge tarp, old shower curtains taped together, or some thicker painters plastic (3mil +?).
Bare metal will typically flash rust with wet blasting. There is a product calles Hold-tite that can prevent this and leaves no residue so it can be painted over. It's typically required with vapor blasting and ultrahigh pressure waterblasting.
Just a little correction Hold-Tite is fasteners. HoldTight is what you're talking about. Great suggestion!
@@TheTW13 correct, Holdtight 102
You could use Rust Mort or any type of rust remover afterwards to remove flash rusting.
Could u use the soap dispenser attachment before the sand attachment with sum light weight oil or car wax to prevent or slow oxidation?
One thing I don't like is that corrugated hose, looks like it would hamper like flow of sand
Just make sure not to play with that sand dry without using a respirator, it will lead to lung disease and possibly cancer. (silicosis)
Wow, did not know that! That's scary stuff!
@@NaztyNate Silica dust microparticles (from silica sand causes irreparable damage to lung tissue ovet time, similar to asbestos fibers entering the lungs) see the warning label on the bag.
Silicosis.
@@NaztyNateit’s ok when wet though so you don’t need special equipment.
It’s dry blasting that’s an issue.
@NaztyNate that's the long term effect. Short term it will cut up your lungs like it's glass.
I worked at a marina in a previous life. We used wet sand blasting to clean and prep boat bottoms and running gear for anti-fouling paint. It works great; there is virtually no dust like dry blasting and I think it is a bit more gentle on the parts being blasted, but you do end up with a pile of sand.
they switched to Walnut shells at the boatyard i occasionally worked at, scrubs nasty barnacles and bottom paint right off. it didn't clean underwater gear as well but it knocked the sealife off.
What if you don't want the bottom prepped for bottom paint, but want old bottom paint removed? I'm guessing baking soda, but where do you buy pails of it?
My dad bought one back in the late 80s or early 90s to use on boats at the marina. I remember that it was $400 because it was new tech and it had a special ceramic nozzle that doesn't wear out like the one in this video will. Of course, his will last for most of his projects because he probably won't use his like one at a marina. Switching to walnut shells is also great way to go. For small, delicate jobs you can use baking soda.
@@hoobeydoobey1267My dad bought five gallon buckets of baking soda from a restaurant supply store. The first time he called they couldn't understand what a marina would need all that baking soda for. 😄
The difficult part about using baking soda is keeping it dry in humid weather. Also, to take a boat bottom back to original condition is not an easy task because gelcoat is porous. Bottom pain stains the white gelcoat. We never had a customer want or need to do that but if you did the only way is with a gelcoat peeler. It's basically an electric planer that grinds off a very thin layer at a time. It has a vacuum attachment to help with the enormous mess it makes. We would rent a giant industrial vacuum when we had to use it. After removing the gelcoat, you prep the fiberglass and apply new gelcoat. It has to be one of the worst tasks at the marina. Fastener removal is probably a close second.
@@Jonathan.D Thanks for that detailed info. I'm really just wanting the bottom pain removed so the boat has less drag on trailer bunks and water. Looks like crap on the boat as its old. Just want it gone. Doesn't have to look like new, fresh from the mold.
The nozzle in my kit has a "0" in the casting. I presumed it stood for size 0 sand blasting sand from the auto parts supply shop. It worked perfectly. I layed a large tarp on the grass in the spot I did the blasting. Used collected sand for making concrete projects.
I would try working over a tarp held up around the perimeter with pool noodles to catch and retain the sand for easier clean up and sand recovery.
I call bunk on this toy. I bought it, could not find Med. Sand anywhere, went and got Med. Grit Black Diamond. That thing clogged constantly and fed inconsistently. It was really good at removing the weak paint but left pock marks on the good paint. It took me 60 grit on a sander to remove the pock marks. I'm still sanding to get that project paint ready.
An interesting project for you I did years ago on that Dodge Ram tailgate. I had an '85 Ram, took the tailgate off, cut the center section of the inside of the tailgate out (side inside the bed) cut out the letters "Dodge Ram" and glued in white plexiglass on the inside of the lettered half of the tailgate and placed bits of metal from the tailgate like the center of the "D" and "O" etc and stuck those to the plexiglass so it basically looked like it does now. Then put some red LED's inside the tailgate with a wire lead, put tailgate back together, paint, install, wire and it makes one hell of a brake light. It really looked awesome on my Ram.
Get a water trough or other large container and cover it with a tent. That will allow you to keep the media (sand) from getting everywhere and even dry it out for use again. Be sure to use safety equipment like a respirator or even a sand blasting hood.
If using actual "sand" you should look for plaster sand, it is a finer and more closely screened product and widely availible. (It may be in the tile and drywall section of the store, but is also availible by the ton from many quarries.) it is used for texture and filler in plaster and plaster-like concrete wall finishes, as well as tile grout.
Also popular are ground up nut shells(softer than the metal for less wear, walnut is most common), baking soda or dry ice are popular in air blasters but wouldn't work with water, and at the other end of abrasive hardness is silicon carbide which might be good for stuff like millscale or smoothing/etching stone. All availible in various grit sizes of course.
Beat me to it. 100% on point.
Please!!! Do not use plastic sand without a recovery system. I hate to be a stick in the mud but that would be horrible for your surrounding environment. Your street storm drains in to rivers and plastic sand would disrupt everything around you including your drinking water.
@@donitmyself8935 Duhfuk kind of herpaderp are you spewing?
White silica sand same stuff n store ash trays
@@donitmyself8935Totally agree! Glad there are some who care about such things.
Looks like using the sand with the pressure washer works well (I might have to try it). However, beware if you are sandblasting without water you should ensure that you do not breath the dust created as it can cause silicosis. Many countries have banned the use of normal sand for sand blasting and alternatives have to be used e.g. garnet.
Not to mention modern automotive paints still have a bit of lead in them depending on the pigment so you probably want to avoid breathing that too.
Yes, garnet is the ideal blasting media, it does not have silicate in it that causes lung cancer, get it for about $15 for 35 pounds, and you can let it dry in the sun filter it and use it over and over, Garnet for wet or dry blasting.
it doesnt matter if water is introduced or not youre still getting it in your lungs without the proper filtration mask
@@huckwild1 the introduction of water sequesters the dust particles and cuts down on particulate inhalation immensely. You're right though, some will still be in the air and it's a good idea to use a mask regardless.
I used nickle slag, a by product of nickle mining. It is more malable than the silica sand, so you get less pitting and the dust is not as toxic as the silica sand....the slag goes by the brand name of Green Diamond here in Oregon
I’d put a small kids pool under the item to be Sand blasted or build a wooden structure with a soft membrane (avoid splatter) to re capture the water, sand and debris being blasted. It could be recycled again and again. When done allow the sun to dry out and clean up.
Yep, $10 wading pool and some spare pvc around 1/3-1/2 with plastic sheeting over it with bottom held by bricks in the pool.
Oh also it works a hundred percent better if your pickup tube is over your shoulder so it enters the nozzle flow at a down angle keep your pickup tube above the wand for proper suction and no backwash
An 8x8 tarp and some pvc to build a closet will cost you $20 more. But totally worth it for future projects and it’s easy to save and reuse the sand.
When I was 18 years old, back in 88 I was a painter and we sand blasted whole buildings.
Dude it sucked… imagine the cleanup for a whole house. That thing is pretty cool I’m gonna get one. Thanks for making this
Wow that would be cool to see! Maybe not for a career but I'm sure there is good money in it too!
You grew up exactly when I did, we're so lucky to have lived in that era...
@@dc6233 yeah you’re totally right. Weird how we take things for granted. Like life will always feel free. Teams of government
a$$holes over the years have made so many new laws since then.
@@dc6233I wouldn't trade it for the world. I've heard the phrase "just the right amount of technology" used to describe the times pre-smart phone, Google, social media etc. I couldn't agree more. We actually DID things instead of being parked in front a phone all day, living vicariously through others and their facades.
*Sandblasting isn't done with beach, construction, or landscaping sand. Which is what you used. It is a super fine, consistent silca. (Which is all glass specs). You should have nothing less than a P100 on and full monogoggles. It is not to be messed with. Silicosis is serious.*
But it looks like it worked! AND he doesnt have silica all over the spot where he lives. I will use fine play sand since 1, its readily available, 2. its non toxic, 3. it cheaper
First the sand must be very dry. Then I take a screen from a screen door and sift the sand, that ends a lot of issues with plugging and feed. To go cheap a ton of washed sand is about $12 at a pit near me, screen it before use and it works great. To store my unused sand I put it in unsealed five gallon pails in my air conditioned basement utility room to keep it dry.
The way I did my 55 apache was I lined my entire garage wall with plastic sheet from home depot and blasted in there, it was easier to grab a shovel and load the wet sand into buckets that way and plastic goes in the trash
Not a bad idea at all. It's a messy job
@Nazty Nate defenatly a messy job, containment is key
They didn't start the Apache series until 1958? There were no 1955 Apache trucks?
@matt edwards *mine is a 57 big window step side, all emblems read apache 3100
@@Ricardo_Wade In your previous post you said you had a 55? There were no apache series in 55?
Sweet I bought one of those off Amazon warehouse for 10 bucks open box. I never tried it. Honestly I forgot I had it. I’m glad it works. I love your ram. It’s beautiful.
I think the prep directions are right in the name: sand-blasting. As in: sand will blast everywhere (definition of blast) and so the prep is a containment curtain. Live and learn.
Thanks. I am ordering one for lawn furniture and small projects. Thanks to your COMPLETE review of issues I will set up a tent with a sand run off collection so I can reuse it for other light weight projects.
I used one of those 10' x 10' pop up shades (cheap at Walmart) and clipped some heavy translucent plastic sheeting (comes on rolls in a box) to contain most of the sand. Wet blasting is great and safer than breathing that dust!
if you invest in a couple canvas drop cloths they will catch sand and drain water. you can dry the sand and rescreen it and blast with it again. tractor supply has actual media for 11 bucks a bag of different sizes as well. been looking at these and planed to grab one and use with my sand blasting rig for a dustless option. for future reference plan ahead so the sand can remain like a corner of the yard. dont forget phosphoric acid to prep the metal and convert the surface rust that will develop in seconds. a leaf blower makes quick work of drying frames too
I've always sifted my sand through a window screen to get a small enough media. I have one of these I guess I might as well test it out.
I also have one and yes it works amazing with play sand. Just make sure it’s dry and sifted.
how do you keep it from rusting? I use a air sandblaster. Have been for 50 years. biggest problem is surface rust . how do you dry the part and paint it after you have removed the paint and exposed the metal?
Blow the sand on your lawn and rake in; enough sand will help the lawn absorb moisture, I use sand to level client's lawns
Use a big tarp with a focused water runoff. When finished let everything dry and recapture your sand for the next project.
You can build a trap to catch the wet sand and save yourself some money and cleanup. Also, make sure to wear protection and a respirator when sandblasting to protect your skin, eyes and lungs.
Thanks for the demo and the tip on the Quikcrete medium sand. That sand is screened and kiln dried so I bet it worked well with no clogs. The sand delivery hose needs to be on top of the spray wand not hanging on the bottom or water could get into the sand delivery tube and clog it so I am told. Looked like it worked really well for you with a moderate pressure washer.
That's definitely true looking back at it, makes sense, so water doesn't back fill into that hose
Crushed glass media works good too
I found out this Quikrete medium sand is not to be used for sandblasting. Wet blasting may help but you don't want to be exposed to the dust.
@@martyscncgarage5275just wear a mask you’ll be fine
@LSSWAPTHEWORLD710 also crushed walnut shells. There's also a process called soda blasting where you more-or-less use banking soda. There's lots of different abrasives that can be use. All depends on what your blasting.
Thank you for this video! I did blasting as part of my shop, it soon became a backyard beach. I got free silica sand and screened it and dried it on a big wood stove to keep using it many times. Those bags get expensive real fast! Silica sand is a danger though... for dry blast you must have a respirator and a pressure hood to be safe.
A makeshift pvc 'tent' with some cheap plastic clothes will prevent this, and allow you to collect the sand to dry, screed and reuse it.
Sand won't hurt your lawn, in fact it's what pros use to level a lawn.
Correct Matt. My lawn looked like crap and the ground was as hard as concrete. A landscaper told me to spread sand all over the lawn as it helps break up the soil for the grass roots. It does help.
You're right I think when you see all that shit built up it makes you forget it's sand and not salt I was gonna comment something luckily I read first 😂
Keep in mind that sand destroys bearings. I don’t know how it does it but it gets to them somehow. I’ve seen it a hundred times. The only way I would sandblast my trucks frame would be take off the body and take apart the chassis. Unless I wasn’t going to keep the truck for very long. But I would never do it like this
That is a good point, something to consider. I think you are absolutely right about that.
😂😂😂😂 oooookkkkkk
How many gallons per minute is that pressure washer?
I used to do a lot of sandblasting and what I did was made sure I stayed in an area where to be swept up sifted and reused. In the case with the pressure washer you could also sweep it up and let it dry out sift it and reuse it. Thanks for the info on the part I'll probably order one now.
Is it just to knock paint / rust off?
I would actually suggest using 40/70 medium grit crushed glass for blast media
I will try that on the next project! thank you!
i use my Powe washer for sandblasting all the time when it is time for clean up i do one of two methods wait till sand is dry use a coal shovel and save sand or wait till dry and use leaf blower and blow onto naboring properties
Park in the grass and when you're done use all the sand to fill low spots in your yard.
I like that idea
If you can get it I recommend using garnet can't remember spec on size but it would really do a great job on the body panels but would probably be a bit more expensive. I've sand blasted and painted 10+yrs so you definitely do not wanna let it get wet at all if ya can help it and wear a respirator also. If you can do the blasting inside a make shift enclosure then you can reuse the sand easily a few times over once you let it dry back out completely.
You almost need some kind of enclosed bay or booth to do this. I think if you had a booth similar to a spray painters booth, you could reuse the sand for other sand blasting projects.
I used to put a big tarp over the bed and cab of my truck and do my (dry) blasting in the bed. That way I could dump the abrasive (thru a screen) back into the bucket when I was done. 😁
Try black diamond blasting material. I think even tractor supply has it Much sharper, comes in different grades and is reusable to a point. Always use a respirator.
I've considered trying that also. It's a little bit more in cost, at $12.99 for a 50lb bag. But if it cuts faster, you'd use less material.
Another good type of sand or Glass beads you can use is for water wells (sand for putting in wells ) it's pretty cheap and you can get variouse sizes and it's always quality and very dry if kept properly .
I bought a sandblaster a few years ago at harbor freight and I use it all the time. I always buy the sand there. its extremely fine.
I want to try that sand, I am going to make a new video trying different methods described in the comments and I will definitely try that sand!
angle the blast at 45 degrees to the surface rather than directly perpendicular - gets under the paint faster and less distortion
Hm, good tip. I'll have to try that
If you want it to pick up he sand better , and own a compressor hot glue a small air line around the bottom with tiny holes , use a regulator and try some low pressure like 1 bar or so , it will fluidize the sand .Cheers .
I have a cheap Harbor Freight blast gun with round white plastic sand holder that screws onto the bottom. Was about $29 5 years ago and works pretty good with black oxide media. My compressor has a 35 gallon tank and does cycle a lot when using it, so this might make sense for large areas. The black oxide is MUCH CHEAPER when purchased from Tractor Supply than Harbor Freight, but not sure if usable with this wet blast method?
I have sand blasted car parts before and doing the dirty work over a large tarp, recovering the sand and sifting through a widow screen reduces how much sand you have to buy, also keeps the mess controlled
I get pool sand from my local Home Depot. It is really fine though. I wonder if play sand would work. It's screened a little larger grit. I've got to get one of these.👍
Also I'd just sand blast in my back yard! Then take a rake and flatten it in the grass! Won't hurt a thing! Or build a plastic green house that's lined with 6-10mil plastic inside so you can vacuum up the sand and reuse it!
Awesome info man!!!
Also, for anyone looking into DIY sandblasting, this is by far your best choice.
In order to run a air compressor sand blaster ($70 gun) you need at least 30-50+ gallon compressor tank. You’ll need a air/water separator on the compressor on in line with the hose. And you need about 30CFM.
Long story short: you’re gonna have to spend about $1,000-3,000 on a compressor that can flow that much air.
For the pressure washer method, you need at least 3,000PSI but I would bet 1,800-2,000PSI would cover most light work. For example, dirt bike engine cases.
True, I just got a better pressure washer also, I want to try to test it again and see if it does any better
For 30 cfm you're probably better off trying to call a few rental yards and get a little diesel powered compressor for a day or weekend or something
I picked up a nice short pressure washer wand from Harbor Freight I really like, and there's on that looks identical to it on Amazon but it costs about ten bucks more. They also sell a two piece tube set that allows you to have a straight or angled wand or connect them both for a longer reach with an angle. This has been handy to make it longer and angled to wash the top of the cab of my truck or up into wheel wells or the undercarriage, then just remove the tubes for other stuff. Their foam cannon works well too, but that's off subject. It however does tip over kind of easy if it's not full.
Not bad! Gotta love harbor freight!
It looks like this would be good to take and use at the sand dunes, free sand and no cleanup. :)
I like that idea 😂
Gonna need a helluva lot of hose to pump water to the dunes.😂
Sand is good for grass growth if you can get it spread out evenly. It promotes drainage in the soil in some situations.
What PSI pressure washer did you use?
I believe it was 2200 psi
volume is what matters here, the pressure is created by the nozzle size.
I imagine looking at the sand all over your yard and in the garage it will also be in the vehicles air filter drive shaft joint disc and drum calipers past oil seals amazing stuff sand and water under pressure gets everywhere.
Only if you are dense enough to blast complete assemblies.....😂
NAAAATE! You finally bought it! Hell yeah! I remember commenting this last year dude! Lol
I did it just because of you!!! Totally worth it!
@@NaztyNate ahh well it’s a good thing to have for a DIY guy! Frame looks hella good!
@@PowerstrokeBoiz it's lookin fresh!
@@NaztyNate we see a video on it soon?
@PowerstrokeBoiz yessir! Coming very soon, lots of updates to get this thing perfect
in the future try 40/70 crushed glass , youll love it . I own a mobile sandblasting business in CA although my machine was 40 grand , the functionality is similar .
The problem is when you’re done the metal will rust really fast.
You ain’t lying!
At the end of a humid day of blasting I could almost see the fine surface rust growing back it was happening so fast.
Definitely coat the raw metal with something protective as soon as you’re done blasting it. 👍
They make solvents for flash rust it’s called por-15. We used that all the time in preparing panels prior to metal etching primer painting.
@@pcs9518 you can paint over it?
I wiped stuff down with wd40 after blasting but that was a pain when it came time to paint.
@@jaxturner7288 we would use metal prep afterwards to make sure no contamination and then the metal etching primer then paint.
@@pcs9518 thanks I’ll try that next time I wet blast something. 🙏
lay pastic or tarp down to catch sand after water drains pull tarp up at the corners and let sand dry completely in the sun then reuse bonus minimal cleanup
I’ve used one before and just left the sand in the bag, poked a hole in the top and stuck the tubes down in it. This keeps the sand from getting a mist into it.
That's actually genius
If you cant find nothing but that play sand then dump the sand through a window screen and it will work 100 times better. I have never used a pressure washer sand blaster but a normal one it works good. The fact there is no dust cloud to kill your lungs is a big bonus too.
I found better sand
If you are not wanting to collect and reuse the sand do the job on the grass and then it will be assimilated into the lawn and can be a form of top dressing.
That sandblast nozzle needs to be in the 12 o'clock position at all times, water will clog the pick up if in any other position. A valve to regulate the sand is an excellent set up. Water & sand is an instant clog up in the nozzle
I bought a camping tent for my work shop to recycle my sand I did all my small projects. Soda & sand blasting. Clean Ups a breeze.happy blasting. Work smarter not harder 👍
You should see the dry ice blasting. It’s fantastic. Best of all worlds. No mess, easy on material
I just use play sand from HD and sift it with a fine kitchen strainer first and run it through a HF sand blaster with my air compressor. For small jobs only; it uses a lot of compressor air. About the garage, I'd blow it out with the air compressor and wait for the rain :).
Seems totally worth it. I've dry sandblasted out in the open before....it's dirty and dangerous (breathing it in).
The sand in the grass can be a real mess too, best to water it in, lots of spraying / rinsing the grass (or wait for a lot of rain) to get it down to the soil. Before that happens, you'll be picking up sand in your shoes and bringing it in the house and everywhere else. But I do love this tool.
Lmao. Bull!!! Ask any landscaping company, sand is a top soil and is great for growing your grass thicker and stronger. Rich green grass grows best in a sand lume.
I rented a large diesel powered two behind compressor with sandblaster to do a 1964 El Camino. Body completely stripped and off frame, took about 4 hours but would never do it again.
Not bad, but I am with ya, it's a hell of a job!
I have use crushed glass and it works well, but if you’re going to do parts I would set up a tent in the street by the storm drain the water goes down the drain then you just shovel up the sand and recycle it It , it works amazingly. Well, it’s just the clean up is a pain in the ass
2 things. Make sure the sand is dry. Also sidt the sand to prevent clumps and large pieces
What I do is I have some screen for window screening and I wrap it over a five gallon bucket and pour the sand slowly into the bucket, the finer sand goes through the screen and the bigger rocks stay in the screening, simple ,fast and works great and super cheap to do
I have one and i use a giant tarp and recollect the sand. Save some $$
Two things. What kind of PSI does the pressure washer need? The easy way to deal with the sand is to let it dry and take a leaf blower to it. I do this in my garage from time-to-time. Start at the back and blow everything out the door...
The best option would be to use baking soda. works just as well and no cleanup. option B would be a blast cabinet with a strainer and drain
I've found using my air compressor and the blower attachment to clean up light weight dirt (or your sand) from the garage floor. Start at the back and blow it all out the door.
probably using sand blasting sand would work perfectly. I can get some here at my local hardware store. It's not silica sand, it is specifically for sandblasting and I use it in my air powered sandblaster. Thanks for this idea.
It would just get expensive quick, unless you collect it all when you're done
I got the same thing. It works great. An just a lil tip i let everything dry an i use my backpack blower an blow everything off. That seems to be the easiest way.
Definitely going to try that next! Good idea
Use the excess sand to level your yard. It’sa gray medium for growing grass
If you construct a 'tarp tent' and cover the floor, you can recover and dry out the sand for re-use. It saves money and clean-up time.
Make a tent to do your sandblasting in to stop it from going everywhere. The sand in the grass won't harm anything, unless there is something in the surface you are stripping that would kill the grass, like oil and grease
if do it in grass lawn . rake all sand out few bags
milnorganite/few bags top soil . grass grow in super thick.
Could it be that you mounted the metal feed pipe upside down? It looks like the purpose of the second section of pipe is to keep the inlet end from bottoming out, which would starve the feed.
if you catch the sand not all but most you can reuse it...put a painters tarp underneath like a back stop
I love how this product saves You all the Time not having to wait for the Steel to Rust after You just Normally Sand Blast something. So why is this product good? It makes it really hard to recycle the sand like with a normal sand blaster. I gave You a thumbs up for the effort and the Lug Nuts.
Gotta love the lug nuts
I work for a pretty large mobile sandblasting company and we use a array of crushed glass
Use a leaf blower to push the sand on the lawn acually good for it. Could you use a kiddie pool and reclaim some of the sand?
I use pecan shells. Pricey but it won't corrode metal or kill the grass.
How long did it take to do the tailgate.
Done this but used air compressor with sand tank and water blast on the 2 inputs.That works even better. Maybe tarps or old eg plastic metal cattle type tub to catch the sand? A lot better rhan dusty dry sandblasting this is. Next project..a vapor blasting tank for smaller parts.
Sounds like a method of containment has to be thought out. Maybe canvas sheets draped over the areas behind the places being de-surfaced, soft to take the velocity out of the sand, to keep the sand local and easier to trap later? There’s got to be an easy way to clean that sand for re-use?
use the blower on your shopvac to blow all the sand outside then blow it all in one area easy cleanup
Use play ground sand from Lowes its a fine sand, just use screen wire over a bucket to screen out bigger stuff and dont get it wet
I had problems with flash rusting from the moisture. It was a truck frame so I just epoxy primer it then painted. Never had bad results after 10 years.
Nice!! This frame actually didn't surface rust at all. I did the same!
@@NaztyNate Might be your location compared to mine. I'm in Kentucky where the humidity can easily be 99% in the summer. Either way well worth the $30.00. I used fine black slag.
Overall, how would that compare to paint stripper and then pressure washing. Time / Cost / Mess / Effectiveness.
Was thinking same thing. A lot less cleanup and money saver when it comes to media costs. Key to using a stripper is to cover with a plastic sheet while stripper properties go to work.
Seemingly great tool. I went to the link to purchase it and learned in the reviews that my pressure washer is not strong enough for this tool. Lowest p.s.i. I saw mentioned in the reviews was 4500 p.s.i.
Mine is 2300, 😢
I ran it with 2800 and seemed to work well, I imagine 4500 would be crazy lol
The sand it needs is sandblasting sand... aluminum oxide, ground recycled glass or even ground walnut shells
Sand bucket up higher
And adjust pressure on pump it will pull though beautifully.
The best types of blast media for blasting IMHO is garnet, which is very hard, or Black Beauty which is also hard and made from coal slag.