And here i have been using a anglegrinder with a brush for 2 years to remove rust. My stepdad told me not to buy a sanblaster, because the sand had such a hard pressure it would destroy everything around the house. But here this guy is doing it, inside. Will buy.
They work great but they make hellacious mess. Word of caution: while using a similar blaster with even a hood on, I managed to get a glass bead in my eye. It got in there while removing my safety gear. That tiny glass bead felt like a chunk of pea gravel in my eye. It happened on a Friday evening. Couldn't wash it out myself so went to emergency room. They couldn't find it so gave me pain med to numb my eye. It was a long 2 days before I could get into eye surgeon who was able to locate the glass bead and remove it with out much problem. Everyone using this should be wearing a hood, safety glasses and mask. but very important, before taking any of it off, use blow gun to remove particles stuck to outside of your safety gear BEFORE you remove it. Nuff said.
Great tip to know much thanks I was thinking I could do this on my side panel on my 63' chevy nova boy was I wrong .I truely didn't know how to sand blast till and all the precosions along with it but after watching and reading your words I learned so much there's a lot more to it then I ever could have imagined..thanks bud I won't be doing this God bless 🙏
im retired i did my 50 years of fixing trucks and driving on the road,now im doing what i wanted to do restore two fords,great video i have one of these as well as a blastpot and a small luminem oxide gun,and a 6x3x3 cabinet.
I do have a Harbor Freight sand blaster the mini tank one, but that hand held one I will get, I just started a 66 Chevelle and it does have surface rust that I will have to blast, I have been on you tube looking for some what quick solution's to blasting I have to do the fenders and doors just lie you are doing here in this video, and as well as the interior panels to combat the surface rust and this looks like a great solution, I have sand blasted before and it does require a 30 to 60 gal. compressor of which I have, and also a lot of patience, but as you show it is worth all the time, now I just have to figure out how to do the underside of the body, thanks for the video, it helps a lot.
I found you a few years ago . Then I lost ya. Now I have found you again! GREAT SHOWS /CLASS/SCHOOL YOU REMIND ME OF A FEW OF MY GOOD BUDDYS. I'M GETTING A SHOT BLAST GUN . THANK YOU MY FRIEND PETE!!!
that was an excellent demonstration of blasting with a simple gun! I'm taking the plunge and want to see if it can clean up weld slag, I expect it will clean up flux core residue but not so sure about stick with the thick hard slag. sometimes you just have to try things for yourself.
I'm needing to blast the underside of a 78 Bronco body. Although this is a spot blaster, do you think it would work? Not a ton of rust; just paint removal. Would make a mess, but I live on a farm and can do it outside my shop.
I am super stoked to try this. Going to Harbor freight tomorrow to pick one up. We have a 379 Pete that I am going to strip the frame of rust and repaint. I love a happy ending! Thank you
Great suggestion. I bought one from WalMart, and does work but it is cumberson to set up & use; the Harbor Freight unit does a better job. I particularly like the downdraft hopper. Thank you.
Man I can’t even tell you how happy it makes me feel to know I can do this myself! I’ve been in the process of restoring a trailer for my Jon Boat after I’ve already busted ass to get the boat looking nice. I was starting to think I was going to have to shell out money to somebody to blast the trailer but a brand new harbor freight just opened up in town and I know where I’ll be going very soon! Thanks again and the commentary was hilarious. Gotta love that elbow grease!
On the other hand, this video kind of sends the message that having the proper tools trumps elbow grease. I mean, compared to media blasting, wire wheels and sand paper are slower, more labor intensive, and will NEVER do as good of a job.
Pete I respect you so much. You're right not so many people use the term, "elbow grease". I'm a hard working man n love what I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge n being real. Take care
You got my sub, also, at the end of the video when you blew yourself off, for a second, I thought you still had the sandblaster hooked up. I thought "dang, my generation's not made of that" Cheers.
Pete is so funny and really after a hard day at work seeing him just makes learning so much fun, easy and sometimes hilarious! Great videos, Thanks Pete!
great demonstration. I bought that sand blaster but I didnt get anything close to his results because I was too cheap to buy the Aluminum Oxide. Im heading back to HFT to pick up a bag of the right stuff.
Pete, that was a great reminder to use dry air. They will need a device to keep moisture out of the air before painting. Also, as you have said, use a dedicated 50 foot hose for painting as compressor oil and moisture gets inside the rubber of the hose. Still learning and remembering what lesions that Pete teaches. Thanks for the information. That is why I but a tee shirt as I can afford it, to pay it forward! Thanks Pete!
Your very funny!! Like the dry humor 😂😂 Lazy correct. I'm 59 and loved working on cars years ago . Unfortunately I struggle today with arthritis. Miss all classic cars I had from the 1960's-70's. Miss my Sunbeam Tiger. Had to sell it to pay bills when I was sick. Used to love to paint and do auto body work.
Thanks My Friend Pete. Today is Day1 of my 1955 Chevy Truck Restoration. I’m starting with your suggestion of spot rust removal. Headlight buckets 1st.
Damn Pete... you went and did it again... I'm sold on the little Sand Blaster.....Crazy I was just complaining about the sandblaster of mine being to Big on Smaller Jobs and Hard to get places ...thank you for being there... thank you
These very same blasters also work good to soda blast using sodium carbonate, just used mine to soda blast some old vintage motorcycle carburetors & they look new again & work great considering they were left with water & gasoline in them since 1988 . If you go to a feed mill you can get 50lb bags of it much cheaper than Harbor freights 39.99 for a 50lb bag, I paid 16.00 at my local feed mill.
Thanks Pete! I'm teaching myself how to restore my Grandfather's 72 chevy caprice and I want to do as much as I can without a shop. I appreciate you greatly and I'm heading out to buy sand blasters to remove a bunch of sand blasting tools.
Holy hella I have been busting my ass doing all this with a grinder and sand paper!!! I am definitely going to Harbor Freight to get one of these bad boys!! 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌I restore old horse trailers and this will make my life a lot easier!
Oh WOW I remember those shirts from when I was in the U.S. Navy back in the 80's - 90's. That little blaster did a good job. I'm a beginner here, what was the pressure and hose size. Thanks for the great video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Pete thank u for your dedication on making these videos and your knowledge on paint and body work cant waitbtil u get to your new place and get the hell out of dallas thanks pete and minnie
@@denispoirier5442 I know, right? Well, all of us with eyes to see and ears to hear know it's the filth of satan at work to mock God's holy name in any which way possible.
I'm buying one tomorrow! I have an 2006 F150 that has a spot on the rear wheel well opening that has two bubbles in it and the back side has less rust than what you're showing! I will clean it after that and use a zinc product to seal it. On the paint side I doubt I would need a teaspoon of filler! Sand. prime, wet sand, paint, clear and wet sand with 2000. A good polish and I think you saved my rear!
Great video for those who do not know how to remove rust. Been doing rust removal for over 25 years. On my heavy rust I use Muriatic Acid mixed with water or no water. Just be cautious of the fumes. Best to do outside. With the wind blowing it away from you. Keep applying with paint brush, chipping, wire brushing, etc. to help remove faster. Once all the rust is off. (Actually better than sand blasting at this point, because it's going to get into the pores of the metal which sand can not do.) Once I have washed the metal surface with water and flushed all the Muriatic Acid. I used a mild rust remover from B&G Restorations, St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada. It's Phosphoric Acid (very mild) brush this on to remove the water stain rust from the Muriatic Acid operation. (Note: Muriatic Acid is a very violent Acid, but removes the rust fast.) Once the Phosphoric Acid again has removed the rust. Wash with hot water, and dry it fast with paper towels. Depending on the part. It's ready to Prime. If the part has other pieces welded or attached to it will rust in the corners again. At this point use what Pete's using the Harbour Freight self contained hopper sand blast gun or use a sand blast gun from Tricon, based in Cleveland, Ohio, USA. I'm using the Tricon, which has a hole close to the outlet tip, from there a flexible hose is attached, that runs to a tube you can stick in a bag of sand or aluminum oxide. Use this to blast the corners, like Pete did. Which does a super fine job. Blow it off and is ready to Prime. Merry Christmas to all! Paul, Brantford, Ontario, Canada Note: Will get exact info on B& G Products. I know they got a USA address in Niagara Falls, New York, USA. Good quality Stainless Steel small wire brushes (Not those Chinese pieces of junk) but stuff that is good. I highly recommend that Phosphoric Acid its very mild. If you used it right on the heavy rust it would take for ever to remove. But an excellent finalizer finish Acid.
Phosphoric acid is actually referred to as Naval Jelly. They use it as rust removal on Navy ships... but what i should say is not rust removal, but rust conversion as that is what it does. It converts the Rust to Ferrous Phosphate in a chemical reaction.. so the red rusty bits become phosphated a bluish colour with heavier rust going black and dusty. You can have zinc phosphates which create a zinc phosphate surface as well.. but pricier.. I think there is a Gun surfacing process using something like this.. Parkerizing?? expensive and comes out a metalic flat grey,, looks pretty good. The beauty of phosphoric acid is you can paint straight over the bluish areas (phosphated rust) with a good epoxy and you should not see any new rust appear in those spots. while Straight phosphoric works good and it is the cheapest way to go, there is off the shelf rust converters, ive used a few and most are shit. But one i used called Austech Rust convertor was alot better than straight phosphoric acid, while it reacts very similar, i found it better due to the other additives ( it think Iron salts are added) in it and how it cleaned up.. they obviously done some research. Other rust converters are just watered down Phosphoric acid... comelete garbage IMO/ you can just go buy phosphoric acid 89% pure.. not sure if you can get purer ?
Aaron James This Phosphoric Acid is sold by B&G Restorations, not a naval jelly. Loctite makes that sold at Walmart in the USA. To thick to spread. As I said the Muriatic does the heavy rust removal. Once rust is gone. Nice and clean. I totally wash it with water. Then use the B&G product. Looking to get exact address of manufacture. Did a google search they did not come up. Can buy in 1 litre or 4 litre sizes. In order to stop the Muriatic from rusting again, ri the B&G product must be used. Then that is flushed with hot water. Now depending on the part. You can sometimes wipe down quickly with paper towels and dry fast, and is ready to Prime paint. Other times it will start to mild rust again. At this point I would blast with the dry media. For a perfectly clean surface. Canadian Tire in Canada does sell a liquid rust remover, in small bottles. It does work the same way as the B&G product. I think Auto body supply stores sell a product called metal etch may work similar to B&G product. Just recently cleaned some hot rolled metal. I soaked the bars in muractic and water. Then wire brushed the rust and slag off. Cleaned up nice. Rinsed in water. Then used B&G product, flushed with hot water, air dried in the sun or use big torch to get water out of the metal and primed. Did not have to media blast on that part. No rust in the pores of the steel. Even large parts sandblasted. the sand can not get down in the pores. This is why if you let it sit even 12 or 24 hours the metal is turning brown. The rust is still there. The only way to get metal perfectly clean is use Acid. Once the cleanup Acid is used in this case the B&G product. Use a dry media sand or aluminum oxide to finish it clean.
henri So your from Canada I take it. Ok, I think NAPA may sell a metal etch. I have been using the B&G product for so long never looked into other products. But anyways after using Muriatic you always need to clean again with a mild rust remover.
@@diycarhome9151 That B&G product sounds like alot of work, the Austech one is alot simpler and i believe has the Iron salts which give you a better phosphated surface. And Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, it is just loctite using the name given to phosphoric acid in the navy for there product because it probably contains phosphoric acid. Straight phosphoric acid is very viscous like oil, it is kind of like painting jelly. And you should not sand the phosphated surface or all your protection is gone and there is rust underneath... its really a coat clean and paint... any sanding should be done prior to remove heavy rust.
I have one like this at home that my brother in law gave me. I didn't think it would work THAT WELL! Really gonna have to try it out. I have a BBQ pit I need to clean up.
Thanks my friend Pete. Also available at HF are great big bags of soda which works well and cleans up easily. Do your blasting outside then wash away with the garden hose. It will not kill the grass & flowers. Much nicer to wash the soda out of your hair, clothes and all the places the media ends up than sand. A cardboard box and a trash bag makes an easy "cabinet" for containing some of the mess and reclaims a little too.
I have a question, you said in the video you don't like to use sand blasting which made me wonder what other methods do you prefer in your day to day basis?
By by Miss American pie.....still married to that same little girl YOU sang to. LoL . It’s good to see you doing the custom stuff only now you get to do it while doing the show...too cool. I retired and bought a small farm and am mellow now. Can’t believe it’s been 31 years. Anyway it’s good to see ya. Stay cool. Your friend, Roy Post script: I think of you whenever I see a red wide glide shovel or hear your karaoke song.
I don't paint a lot of anything but I really enjoy your channel. No bullshit straight forward American commentary and direction. I appreciate the no political correct crap. I say "Thank You"!!!. And now I am going to watch and learn me something.
Wow, just when I am interested in going into sandblasting as a tool, prices more than doubled on it. HF don't even sell that particular item, they moved up to a $30 tool and the media costs twice as much as the weight. Where you used to buy a 40 pound media for $20, is now a 50 pound media for $70!
Does anyone know the best media to use to remove rust off of rotors/drums? I have a sandblasting gun and I have glass beads AND Aluminum Oxide. Aluminum Oxide is about 9 on the Mohr scale. Glass beads are in the middle (around 5 or 6... I think). Will the glass beads be OK or should I use something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks, been wanting to know if this Media Blaster was like all the other Harbor Freight tools sitting on my shelf that halfway works. This should remove surface rust on a rear housing and armoured brake lines. Who provided the music?
Tim Harmon Yes.... same here brother... I was just telling a friend the other day that I need a smaller Sand blaster... to do my old Harley Frames.... and there it is...
Hey my friend Pete. I'm in the process of restoring a 1970 roadrunner and I'm going to strip it naked. What can I use to prevent it from rusting before I seal it with epoxy. Thanks
Thanks for the video Pete. Sometimes it's the little things that seem to be the best information. I'm restoring a '65 GMC truck and it needs a good bit of blasting. I'm going to get one of these and try it out. Thanks again.
That tool is for spot blasting only. I wouldn't do an entire frame with it. It worked well with the lower portion of my radiator support in a car project im working on.
Question for Pete , would it be a good idea after blasting to wipe all of the fender down with vinegar /water mix to kill all the rest of any rust left after blasting ? , then wipe down fender with wax & grease remover before shooting epoxy primer ? The finish product is only as good as the prep . Wish you would have extended this clip all the way to primer. Even I didn't know about the Vinegar trick you use. Nobody knows everything, not even me .
What rating did you have in the Navy? You sound like a good “Snipe” I was just talking to a friend who I served in Vietnam with in 1970-1971 and he also worked in a body shop for nearly 30 years. I just kept body shops in business….
Asalam Alaikum (peace be upon you)... from your Muslim American Friend Very informative Pete. May the Good Lord bless you always brother. Stay blessed and keep up the good work!
"your Muslim American Friend" - Thanks "Mo" (but from the religion of peace) - Quran 8:12 "I will cast terror into the hearts of those who disbelieve. Therefore strike off their heads and strike off every fingertip of them" - We do appreciate your peaceful sentiments (BUT now google : taqiyya). = Lie to advance the cause of Islam, gaining the trust of non-believers in order to draw out their vulnerability and defeat them" - Again, thanks for your peaceful sentiments "Mo" - BUT I'd rather & instead, Remember 9/11...
Is this any good for etching glass? I'm from across the pond and as a bit of a hobby I was going to do some small projects like wine glasses ect,ect, I've built a blasting cabinet so retaining the media shouldn't be a problem,.>or would a mini air eraser be a better option, I only have a medium shop compressor 24 the max CFM is 9.6, Any advice really appreciated as I can't find enough details about this blaster (like what size nozzles it takes) because I was going to use very fine aluminum oxide. Great video as well.
usually when etching glass you have a vacuum/sandblaster system instead of having it fly all over the shop.. Check out some etching glass videos and you'll see what I mean.. Thanks for watching!
Please help! We have an old antique Victorian metal toilet(high tank) The inside of it just looks gross. How can we sandblast/fix it the right way!? Most people don’t have this kind of toilet so it’s hard to find someone to fix it.
going to be less lazy now and go do me some blasting. Pete for president, and we'd be better off, but who would want that job. Question - after you blast and have bare metal in these nooks and crannies, what do you do in terms of metal prep, rest prevention, priming and paint? I have some crannies in the interior, like in the under dash area where cowl meets firewall, and they'll never be seen, but what should I use to primarly prevent more rust?
hey pete. did you have to do the modification ive seen done on this cheap blaster. IE: making the hole bigger in the hopper part. and the hole bigger in the gun part. or did it work right out the box for you no issues.
Would this work for the underside of my car? I was thinking about taking a wire brush to it then hitting it with some rust treatment before chassis painting it.
I have a great qu for you. I just stripped my roof paint off due to rust build-up and the rust pitted all the metal. I used distilled white vinegar to kill the rust on it. do you fill in the pitted metal with Bondo and sand it down or would you use a primer fill on it and block sand it. then, later on, use an epoxy primer to go over the top of the primer filler. after it drys wet sand it and shoot the paint then clear coat
Im going to get one of those guns this weekend. Thanks pete i always wondered how good they were and evidently if its good enough for my friend pete its good enough for me.
I actually use one of these with simple baking soda to clean carbs. I own a small engine shop and this thing is perfect thing for cleaning corrosion from the outside of carbs and the inside of float bowls. Wouldn’t know what to do without one of these and my ultrasonic cleaner. Made the carbs for my 76 Honda GL1000 look like new!
Hold the gun just close enough to strip the material, plus you get a wider pattern. I use an Eastwood blast cabinet for smaller parts with Aluminum Oxide. You need a compressor with lots of volume.
Great video Pete... I used to use muriatic acid and vinegar to but always was fighting that flash rust that is created I live in the Northern climate so it's difficult to stop flash rusting cuz of the humid weather ... pete try this....to remove flash rust stains on metal...Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch Found at Home Depot works great never rust for months and months and months
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
And here i have been using a anglegrinder with a brush for 2 years to remove rust. My stepdad told me not to buy a sanblaster, because the sand had such a hard pressure it would destroy everything around the house. But here this guy is doing it, inside. Will buy.
Anglegrinder method is very crude. Can't get into any details, and takes huge effort.
If you use on auto body or other sheet metal, be careful to manage heat or you'll cause warping.
They work great but they make hellacious mess. Word of caution: while using a similar blaster with even a hood on, I managed to get a glass bead in my eye. It got in there while removing my safety gear. That tiny glass bead felt like a chunk of pea gravel in my eye. It happened on a Friday evening. Couldn't wash it out myself so went to emergency room. They couldn't find it so gave me pain med to numb my eye. It was a long 2 days before I could get into eye surgeon who was able to locate the glass bead and remove it with out much problem. Everyone using this should be wearing a hood, safety glasses and mask. but very important, before taking any of it off, use blow gun to remove particles stuck to outside of your safety gear BEFORE you remove it. Nuff said.
X-Man thx men
You warn people, but they wont listen.
Great tip to know much thanks I was thinking I could do this on my side panel on my 63' chevy nova boy was I wrong .I truely didn't know how to sand blast till and all the precosions along with it but after watching and reading your words I learned so much there's a lot more to it then I ever could have imagined..thanks bud I won't be doing this God bless 🙏
Cletus Clem you can't teach stupid.
Did you tell the eye surgeon to get off his ass too?
im retired i did my 50 years of fixing trucks and driving on the road,now im doing what i wanted to do restore two fords,great video i have one of these as well as a blastpot and a small luminem oxide gun,and a 6x3x3 cabinet.
3:32 to about 3:50. Truer words have never been spoken.
Thumbs up, old man 👍.
Haha. Yes.
I do have a Harbor Freight sand blaster the mini tank one, but that hand held one I will get, I just started a 66 Chevelle and it does have surface rust that I will have to blast, I have been on you tube looking for some what quick solution's to blasting I have to do the fenders and doors just lie you are doing here in this video, and as well as the interior panels to combat the surface rust and this looks like a great solution, I have sand blasted before and it does require a 30 to 60 gal. compressor of which I have, and also a lot of patience, but as you show it is worth all the time, now I just have to figure out how to do the underside of the body, thanks for the video, it helps a lot.
Good sound. For someone like me that has trouble hearing your video is a god send. Easy to hear your instructions a tips. Thanks.
I found you a few years ago . Then I lost ya. Now I have found you again! GREAT SHOWS /CLASS/SCHOOL YOU REMIND ME OF A FEW OF MY GOOD BUDDYS. I'M GETTING A SHOT BLAST GUN . THANK YOU MY FRIEND PETE!!!
that was an excellent demonstration of blasting with a simple gun! I'm taking the plunge and want to see if it can clean up weld slag, I expect it will clean up flux core residue but not so sure about stick with the thick hard slag. sometimes you just have to try things for yourself.
I'm needing to blast the underside of a 78 Bronco body. Although this is a spot blaster, do you think it would work? Not a ton of rust; just paint removal. Would make a mess, but I live on a farm and can do it outside my shop.
I am super stoked to try this. Going to Harbor freight tomorrow to pick one up. We have a 379 Pete that I am going to strip the frame of rust and repaint. I love a happy ending! Thank you
Great suggestion. I bought one from WalMart, and does work but it is cumberson to set up & use; the Harbor Freight unit does a better job. I particularly like the downdraft hopper. Thank you.
Man I can’t even tell you how happy it makes me feel to know I can do this myself! I’ve been in the process of restoring a trailer for my Jon Boat after I’ve already busted ass to get the boat looking nice. I was starting to think I was going to have to shell out money to somebody to blast the trailer but a brand new harbor freight just opened up in town and I know where I’ll be going very soon! Thanks again and the commentary was hilarious. Gotta love that elbow grease!
On the other hand, this video kind of sends the message that having the proper tools trumps elbow grease. I mean, compared to media blasting, wire wheels and sand paper are slower, more labor intensive, and will NEVER do as good of a job.
Pete I respect you so much. You're right not so many people use the term, "elbow grease". I'm a hard working man n love what I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge n being real. Take care
You got my sub, also, at the end of the video when you blew yourself off, for a second, I thought you still had the sandblaster hooked up. I thought "dang, my generation's not made of that" Cheers.
Pete is so funny and really after a hard day at work seeing him just makes learning so much fun, easy and sometimes hilarious! Great videos, Thanks Pete!
Great pitch....very conservative and old fashioned. You should run for office. Bless you!
50 Lbs. of Playsand at Lowes for $4.68. Seems fine enough/a little sifting maybe.
great demonstration. I bought that sand blaster but I didnt get anything close to his results because I was too cheap to buy the Aluminum Oxide. Im heading back to HFT to pick up a bag of the right stuff.
Pete, that was a great reminder to use dry air. They will need a device to keep moisture out of the air before painting. Also, as you have said, use a dedicated 50 foot hose for painting as compressor oil and moisture gets inside the rubber of the hose. Still learning and remembering what lesions that Pete teaches. Thanks for the information. That is why I but a tee shirt as I can afford it, to pay it forward! Thanks Pete!
This is the first time I have watched your videos, which are suitable materials. 'm subscribing
Your very funny!! Like the dry humor 😂😂 Lazy correct. I'm 59 and loved working on cars years ago . Unfortunately I struggle today with arthritis. Miss all classic cars I had from the 1960's-70's. Miss my Sunbeam Tiger. Had to sell it to pay bills when I was sick. Used to love to paint and do auto body work.
Thanks My Friend Pete.
Today is Day1 of my 1955 Chevy Truck Restoration.
I’m starting with your suggestion of spot rust removal.
Headlight buckets 1st.
Great channel every time I watch I learn something new.
very good mate ,just down to the point and a good point about laziness how true, also we can hear you instead of a whisper thanks
Damn Pete... you went and did it again... I'm sold on the little Sand Blaster.....Crazy I was just complaining about the sandblaster of mine being to Big on Smaller Jobs and Hard to get places ...thank you for being there... thank you
These very same blasters also work good to soda blast using sodium carbonate, just used mine to soda blast some old vintage motorcycle carburetors & they look new again & work great considering they were left with water & gasoline in them since 1988 . If you go to a feed mill you can get 50lb bags of it much cheaper than Harbor freights 39.99 for a 50lb bag, I paid 16.00 at my local feed mill.
I’ve been meaning to buy one for the longest. Can’t go wrong for the money.
Gotta love the navy dungaree shirt. Even still got the creases.
Thanks Pete! I'm teaching myself how to restore my Grandfather's 72 chevy caprice and I want to do as much as I can without a shop. I appreciate you greatly and I'm heading out to buy sand blasters to remove a bunch of sand blasting tools.
Holy hella I have been busting my ass doing all this with a grinder and sand paper!!! I am definitely going to Harbor Freight to get one of these bad boys!! 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌I restore old horse trailers and this will make my life a lot easier!
Oh WOW I remember those shirts from when I was in the U.S. Navy back in the 80's - 90's. That little blaster did a good job. I'm a beginner here, what was the pressure and hose size. Thanks for the great video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I bought one + used the "Black Beauty" sand on my Wheelhorse ,+ it worked great!
Pete thank u for your dedication on making these videos and your knowledge on paint and body work cant waitbtil u get to your new place and get the hell out of dallas thanks pete and minnie
WHAT??? NO PARTICIPATION TROPHY? I'M GOING TO MY SAFE SPACE AND CALLING MY COUNSELOR RIGHT NOW!!! LMAO!!! GOOD STUFF PETE! ALWAYS THUMBS UP!!!
Jesus Christ, the real video starts after the 10:00 mark.
Cry about it. You didn't have to watch it. And everyone else liked it. Just saying
Thanks for the heads up :)
F$%#ing Daniel larios who cares!
Why " Christ " & not Krishna , Allah, or Buddha .
@@denispoirier5442 I know, right? Well, all of us with eyes to see and ears to hear know it's the filth of satan at work to mock God's holy name in any which way possible.
I'm buying one tomorrow! I have an 2006 F150 that has a spot on the rear wheel well opening that has two bubbles in it and the back side has less rust than what you're showing! I will clean it after that and use a zinc product to seal it. On the paint side I doubt I would need a teaspoon of filler! Sand. prime, wet sand, paint, clear and wet sand with 2000. A good polish and I think you saved my rear!
Portable Sand Blaster is your Friend..Good stuff.
I wasn’t sure if I liked but at the end, “get off your ass” made it special. Motivational. Ty Pete
Great video I'm definitely going to get to Harbor Freight get the gun and get and get to work on some small spot rust, thanks for making this video.
You are the best Pete, your channel is #1
What is the recommended specs of the air compressor needed for this?
Good stuff. I need one to clean the brake caliper and more parts under my car that are rusty.
What do you put on top of the stripped metal after blasting before primer to stop the rust from growing again? Thanks
Great video for those who do not know how to remove rust.
Been doing rust removal for over 25 years.
On my heavy rust I use Muriatic Acid mixed with water or no water. Just be cautious of the fumes. Best to do outside. With the wind blowing it away from you. Keep applying with paint brush, chipping, wire brushing, etc. to help remove faster. Once all the rust is off. (Actually better than sand blasting at this point, because it's going to get into the pores of the metal which sand can not do.)
Once I have washed the metal surface with water and flushed all the Muriatic Acid.
I used a mild rust remover from B&G Restorations, St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada. It's Phosphoric Acid (very mild) brush this on to remove the water stain rust from the Muriatic Acid operation.
(Note: Muriatic Acid is a very violent Acid, but removes the rust fast.)
Once the Phosphoric Acid again has removed the rust. Wash with hot water, and dry it fast with paper towels. Depending on the part. It's ready to Prime. If the part has other pieces welded or attached to it will rust in the corners again. At this point use what Pete's using the Harbour Freight self contained hopper sand blast gun or use a sand blast gun from Tricon, based in Cleveland, Ohio, USA. I'm using the Tricon, which has a hole close to the outlet tip, from there a flexible hose is attached, that runs to a tube you can stick in a bag of sand or aluminum oxide.
Use this to blast the corners, like Pete did. Which does a super fine job. Blow it off and is ready to Prime.
Merry Christmas to all!
Paul, Brantford, Ontario, Canada
Note: Will get exact info on B& G Products. I know they got a USA address in Niagara Falls, New York, USA.
Good quality Stainless Steel small wire brushes (Not those Chinese pieces of junk) but stuff that is good.
I highly recommend that Phosphoric Acid its very mild. If you used it right on the heavy rust it would take for ever to remove. But an excellent finalizer finish Acid.
Phosphoric acid is actually referred to as Naval Jelly. They use it as rust removal on Navy ships... but what i should say is not rust removal, but rust conversion as that is what it does. It converts the Rust to Ferrous Phosphate in a chemical reaction.. so the red rusty bits become phosphated a bluish colour with heavier rust going black and dusty. You can have zinc phosphates which create a zinc phosphate surface as well.. but pricier.. I think there is a Gun surfacing process using something like this.. Parkerizing?? expensive and comes out a metalic flat grey,, looks pretty good.
The beauty of phosphoric acid is you can paint straight over the bluish areas (phosphated rust) with a good epoxy and you should not see any new rust appear in those spots.
while Straight phosphoric works good and it is the cheapest way to go, there is off the shelf rust converters, ive used a few and most are shit.
But one i used called Austech Rust convertor was alot better than straight phosphoric acid, while it reacts very similar, i found it better due to the other additives ( it think Iron salts are added) in it and how it cleaned up.. they obviously done some research.
Other rust converters are just watered down Phosphoric acid... comelete garbage IMO/ you can just go buy phosphoric acid 89% pure.. not sure if you can get purer ?
Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch
At home depot is great stuff...i go to buffual ny to get mine
Aaron James
This Phosphoric Acid is sold by B&G Restorations, not a naval jelly.
Loctite makes that sold at Walmart in the USA. To thick to spread. As I said the Muriatic does the heavy rust removal. Once rust is gone. Nice and clean. I totally wash it with water. Then use the B&G product. Looking to get exact address of manufacture. Did a google search they did not come up. Can buy in 1 litre or 4 litre sizes. In order to stop the Muriatic from rusting again, ri the B&G product must be used. Then that is flushed with hot water. Now depending on the part. You can sometimes wipe down quickly with paper towels and dry fast, and is ready to Prime paint. Other times it will start to mild rust again. At this point I would blast with the dry media. For a perfectly clean surface.
Canadian Tire in Canada does sell a liquid rust remover, in small bottles. It does work the same way as the B&G product.
I think Auto body supply stores sell a product called metal etch may work similar to B&G product.
Just recently cleaned some hot rolled metal. I soaked the bars in muractic and water. Then wire brushed the rust and slag off. Cleaned up nice. Rinsed in water. Then used B&G product, flushed with hot water, air dried in the sun or use big torch to get water out of the metal and primed. Did not have to media blast on that part. No rust in the pores of the steel.
Even large parts sandblasted. the sand can not get down in the pores. This is why if you let it sit even 12 or 24 hours the metal is turning brown. The rust is still there. The only way to get metal perfectly clean is use Acid. Once the cleanup Acid is used in this case the B&G product. Use a dry media sand or aluminum oxide to finish it clean.
henri
So your from Canada I take it.
Ok, I think NAPA may sell a metal etch. I have been using the B&G product for so long never looked into other products. But anyways after using Muriatic you always need to clean again with a mild rust remover.
@@diycarhome9151 That B&G product sounds like alot of work, the Austech one is alot simpler and i believe has the Iron salts which give you a better phosphated surface. And Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, it is just loctite using the name given to phosphoric acid in the navy for there product because it probably contains phosphoric acid. Straight phosphoric acid is very viscous like oil, it is kind of like painting jelly.
And you should not sand the phosphated surface or all your protection is gone and there is rust underneath... its really a coat clean and paint... any sanding should be done prior to remove heavy rust.
What do you treat the metal with after sandblasting before priming?
We used this method on a 2nd Gen Camaro and even an old backhoe. WORKS GREAT!
if a blasted a bicycle, would the blasting have any affect on the welds?
Beautifull .. how many gallons compressor do you used? .
I have one like this at home that my brother in law gave me. I didn't think it would work THAT WELL! Really gonna have to try it out. I have a BBQ pit I need to clean up.
Merry Christmas to you and Minnie!
Thanks my friend Pete.
Also available at HF are great big bags of soda which works well and cleans up easily.
Do your blasting outside then wash away with the garden hose.
It will not kill the grass & flowers.
Much nicer to wash the soda out of your hair, clothes and all the places the media ends up than sand.
A cardboard box and a trash bag makes an easy "cabinet" for containing some of the mess and reclaims a little too.
Thanks for the Tech Tips.. Didn't know HF sold soda too.. Ill have to check it out and do a video on it.... Take it easy!
I have a question, you said in the video you don't like to use sand blasting which made me wonder what other methods do you prefer in your day to day basis?
By by Miss American pie.....still married to that same little girl YOU sang to. LoL . It’s good to see you doing the custom stuff only now you get to do it while doing the show...too cool. I retired and bought a small farm and am mellow now. Can’t believe it’s been 31 years. Anyway it’s good to see ya. Stay cool. Your friend, Roy
Post script: I think of you whenever I see a red wide glide shovel or hear your karaoke song.
Honestly, you had me at 3:30-3:50 mark, so true my friend. If your hands ain’t dirty, it doesn’t count! Lol
I don't paint a lot of anything but I really enjoy your channel. No bullshit straight forward American commentary and direction. I appreciate the no political correct crap. I say "Thank You"!!!. And now I am going to watch and learn me something.
God bless America. Trump 2020.
I wonder if this would work as a cheap DIY tool for walnut blasting a Direct Injection Engine with a suitable compressor??
Wow, just when I am interested in going into sandblasting as a tool, prices more than doubled on it. HF don't even sell that particular item, they moved up to a $30 tool and the media costs twice as much as the weight. Where you used to buy a 40 pound media for $20, is now a 50 pound media for $70!
Wow r u friggin serious???
Does anyone know the best media to use to remove rust off of rotors/drums? I have a sandblasting gun and I have glass beads AND Aluminum Oxide. Aluminum Oxide is about 9 on the Mohr scale. Glass beads are in the middle (around 5 or 6... I think). Will the glass beads be OK or should I use something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Does the panel heat up when you bear down on it like that.
I don't know much about sand blasting hut in assuming that the aluminum will cause less heat than a heavier grit?
Thankyou for a no baloney video.I will buy the tool.Great car,that's from my era.
Would very fine sand from the beach work for this? I live where the beach sand is super fine and free.
Thanks, been wanting to know if this Media Blaster was like all the other Harbor Freight tools sitting on my shelf that halfway works. This should remove surface rust on a rear housing and armoured brake lines. Who provided the music?
Merry Christmas Pete and thank you very much for all your help and tips
damn! i've walked by those for years. didnt know thaey worked that well.
Tim Harmon Yes.... same here brother... I was just telling a friend the other day that I need a smaller Sand blaster... to do my old Harley Frames.... and there it is...
yes me to always tough it was just some cheap useless crap. Now i've just bought one for 15$ on Aliexpress.
@@drefhill definately gonna get one from Harbor Freights to use my my 63 chevy .Very kool
Hey my friend Pete. I'm in the process of restoring a 1970 roadrunner and I'm going to strip it naked. What can I use to prevent it from rusting before I seal it with epoxy. Thanks
Thanks for the video Pete. Sometimes it's the little things that seem to be the best information. I'm restoring a '65 GMC truck and it needs a good bit of blasting. I'm going to get one of these and try it out. Thanks again.
That tool is for spot blasting only. I wouldn't do an entire frame with it. It worked well with the lower portion of my radiator support in a car project im working on.
I wonder if it can be used as a walnut blaster to clean valves on direct injection engines
I really liked this review. Wondering if the little gun would work with walnut shell. I have a few spots I need to clean out removing old paint
Question for Pete , would it be a good idea after blasting to wipe all of the fender down with vinegar /water mix to kill all the rest of any rust left after blasting ? , then wipe down fender with wax & grease remover before shooting epoxy primer ? The finish product is only as good as the prep . Wish you would have extended this clip all the way to primer. Even I didn't know about the Vinegar trick you use. Nobody knows everything, not even me .
What rating did you have in the Navy? You sound like a good “Snipe”
I was just talking to a friend who I served in Vietnam with in 1970-1971 and he also worked in a body shop for nearly 30 years. I just kept body shops in business….
Asalam Alaikum (peace be upon you)... from your Muslim American Friend
Very informative Pete. May the Good Lord bless you always brother. Stay blessed and keep up the good work!
"your Muslim American Friend" - Thanks "Mo" (but from the religion of peace) - Quran 8:12 "I will cast terror into the hearts of those who disbelieve. Therefore strike off their heads and strike off every fingertip of them" - We do appreciate your peaceful sentiments (BUT now google : taqiyya). = Lie to advance the cause of Islam, gaining the trust of non-believers in order to draw out their vulnerability and defeat them" - Again, thanks for your peaceful sentiments "Mo" - BUT I'd rather & instead, Remember 9/11...
Pete for President!
Is this any good for etching glass?
I'm from across the pond and as a bit of a hobby I was going to do some small projects like wine glasses ect,ect,
I've built a blasting cabinet so retaining the media shouldn't be a problem,.>or would a mini air eraser be a better option, I only have a medium shop compressor 24 the max CFM is 9.6,
Any advice really appreciated as I can't find enough details about this blaster (like what size nozzles it takes) because I was going to use very fine aluminum oxide.
Great video as well.
usually when etching glass you have a vacuum/sandblaster system instead of having it fly all over the shop.. Check out some etching glass videos and you'll see what I mean.. Thanks for watching!
Good job on the video and demo. Exactly what I needed to know about autobody spot sandblasting. Thanks :-)
Please help! We have an old antique Victorian metal toilet(high tank) The inside of it just looks gross.
How can we sandblast/fix it the right way!? Most people don’t have this kind of toilet so it’s hard to find someone to fix it.
so going this route you wouldn't need the other treatment you used?
going to be less lazy now and go do me some blasting. Pete for president, and we'd be better off, but who would want that job. Question - after you blast and have bare metal in these nooks and crannies, what do you do in terms of metal prep, rest prevention, priming and paint? I have some crannies in the interior, like in the under dash area where cowl meets firewall, and they'll never be seen, but what should I use to primarly prevent more rust?
hey pete. did you have to do the modification ive seen done on this cheap blaster. IE: making the hole bigger in the hopper part. and the hole bigger in the gun part. or did it work right out the box for you no issues.
Nice job! That little spot blaster works pretty well.
Can I use a car tire air compressor to power a sand blaster?
Is my 5 gallon compressor enough for sandbalsting small hammer?
Would this work for the underside of my car? I was thinking about taking a wire brush to it then hitting it with some rust treatment before chassis painting it.
I have a great qu for you. I just stripped my roof paint off due to rust build-up and the rust pitted all the metal. I used distilled white vinegar to kill the rust on it. do you fill in the pitted metal with Bondo and sand it down or would you use a primer fill on it and block sand it. then, later on, use an epoxy primer to go over the top of the primer filler. after it drys wet sand it and shoot the paint then clear coat
How does crushed walnut shells work in this device and are the worth it ?
Im going to get one of those guns this weekend. Thanks pete i always wondered how good they were and evidently if its good enough for my friend pete its good enough for me.
Get her done! My friend Pete! Great video Sir!
Can you use etching primer on metal after glass blast with the sand blaster ?
I use fine coal slag for media for blasting . It's cheap and works well.
How many times did you have to fill the hopper for this job?
Hope you’re feeling better Pete
I've always wondered how well these things worked. Thanks for the video/tutorial...sub'd and liked!!
I actually use one of these with simple baking soda to clean carbs. I own a small engine shop and this thing is perfect thing for cleaning corrosion from the outside of carbs and the inside of float bowls. Wouldn’t know what to do without one of these and my ultrasonic cleaner. Made the carbs for my 76 Honda GL1000 look like new!
John Acuff baking soda huh? Thanks for the tip, probably not too abrasive
Hi Pete, thanks for the helpful information.
Would you recommend a compressor please?😃
I appreciate the video, but is that respirator up to par for the job at hand? Seriously asking.
Again..ty so much Pete I'm getting one. Sanding by hand sucks!!!
Hold the gun just close enough to strip the material, plus you get a wider pattern. I use an Eastwood blast cabinet for smaller parts with Aluminum Oxide. You need a compressor with lots of volume.
man, great video. I want to be your apprentice! I appreciate the no-bullshit approach.
Is it normal for my truck make noise underneath after sandblasting my frame I have some noise on my leaf springs after sandblasting
It does a great job...Might have to look into one of those over here.
Great video Pete... I used to use muriatic acid and vinegar to but always was fighting that flash rust that is created I live in the Northern climate so it's difficult to stop flash rusting cuz of the humid weather ... pete try this....to remove flash rust stains on metal...Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch
Found at Home Depot works great never rust for months and months and months
I have a question, I’ve been thinking about sandblasting my trunk to try and get rid of the deep rust it has caused, is it ideal for it as well?