@@type2523 Yeah it worked great.... I make videos of all kinds of different stuff and how to tackle jobs in different ways.. Im still have to do a review on the other stuff that I didn't do it right, and I apoligize for that.. I was in a hurry... Ill get on it very soon.. Thanks!
Yeah that pitted crusted rust needs to be grinded with 36 grit on a grinder.Not even Navel Jelly treats that crusty pitted crap.My customers are cheap bastards.I can't afford to spend days and material on grinding and treating rust when this cheap bastards are paying me 650 dollars to restore rust buckets.
What a beautiful job you've done Pete , great video again. Very nice car , love Pontiacs. Helpful and handy hints as always. Thanks Pete and Minnie. Take care .
I saw on another video the average view time in only 2 min and everyone wants to see three days work in one minute (LOL). That silver paint looks dope and flawless! Today, nobody puts any pride into their work, its all about making a fast buck with no effort. Great Job Pete!
Pete... buddy. You did a good job stripping the car parts and getting ready for painting. I notice that someone has beat me to it telling you that your technically wrong about the chemicals. Muriatic acid is a very strong organic acid. That yellow film left after vinegar (acetic acid) is RUST that is initiated by those acids you are using. The acids eat into the metal because they combine with iron causing oxidation. Adding water when rinsing will also cause rust by introducing oxygen to the iron in the bare metal. To stop or slow down the oxidation (rusting) you should use a baking soda and water solution. If you want to leave it exposed over night or for longer you can keep oxygen away from the metal to prevent or at least slow down the rusting by coating with PAINT (primer) of some kind or oil as soon as possible. Once you do that then you don't have to be a a super rush or hurry to get the rest of the job done. ALSO, any vinegar or muriatic acid left inside that door is going to cause accelerated rusting so it is very important to properly neutralize the rusting chemical reactions using a buffer or alkaline solution such as baking soda or an oil to block the oxygen getting to the exposed metal. Old school is great but a little technology can preserve those parts for many years to come... a lot longer than just out the door with a nice paint job.
I LOVE that your videos are "long and drawn out" and I love your attitude about it. You don't owe any of us a damn thing and you're not required to teach us shit. Thank you for your time. I'm learning more from you than any other channel so yeah, thank you!!
Hallo Pete im Jean from South Africa. I have a few rusted fuel tanks here with me. This is basically how i got to your video. I love how nice you explain everything. Im no pro so every bit of advice from you helps me. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.
I swear, I could watch this video a hundred times and never tire of the information, action and see the mostly finished vehicle, all in one viewing! DK, Omaha.
This ain't one of those cutesy little RUclips channels with the bite-sized clips meant for entertainment! If you come here and watch Pete's videos, you gotta treat it like going to a class! If you wanna learn properly, you gotta take the time TO learn, and learn how to do it right! So when Pete uploads a video, you WILL have to take time out to sit down and watch. Sometimes I gotta save the video for later when I have time to watch it, but I never regret when I finally do. Always a learning experience. The results really speak for themselves. They're right there, plain as day for you to see. That finished product is absolutely gorgeous. You can't argue with the results! Great job! Excellent job! Thanks for another fine video, AND another beautiful, restored car put out into this world!
Ya gotta LOVE DIY PETE! Very knowledgable and quite generous to give his time and his trade secrets free on RUclips. Pete is frankly honest so very reliable in my opinion. Thanks Pete, watching, listening and learning!
Shit ppl can't do 5 min now days. Idk wtf happened but we going so far backwards. All this tech we should be way smarter and intelligent. Nope. Ppl get ran over for staring down at screen and ear buds, ppl killed over a text, running off road staring down. A fucking alien space ship could land and get out and dance for a min and get in and nobody would see them unless they're 40 or over. I see families out to eat and all have a screen. No Hows it going, what's up? Nope all quiet, stare, finger fone, eat, finger fone, leave and not say 1 sentence to nobody. Sad.
Forget how long the video, keep giving these great tips! This is a process that can't be rushed if you won't perfection. I'm thinking of taking on the task of doing the bodywork on my car (don't own a shop)....
I love watching this dude. Been doing it on and off for years. He has a personality that’s strong enough to be on television. He’s knowledgeable and entertaining at the same time. Right here from Big D, baby! We got some badass car guys in this city.
My friend PETE, you are the man. I like how you cut that old cadillac in your front yard of the shop. You have taught me a lot through the years........I thank You.
I'm not going to learn everything in a day , watching one or two videos. Forget about people complaining, it takes a life time to be the best. Thanks for the video enjoyed it.
Ive beening using muratic acid for many many years works great....and neutralizing with vinegar, i would highly recommend one addition tip afterthe vinegar step... was with water and phosphoric acid the panel will not flash rust with orange flash rust... or just brush on phosphoric pure... last months with no rust..
Thank you pete. I'm 25 years old and taking on a 50 year old project. It's nice to see the older fellas taking the time and teach the new generation the right and patient way. There's a thousand shortcuts out there these days and you're one of the few honest ones doing it right.
Well Pete here's the deal every class I ever took was least an hour long or longer . I've learned more from watching your videos so you take as long as you need to explain all the procedures in plain English. Doesn't get any better than that!!!
Dude, you can't neutralize one Acid with another Acid. Both "Hydrochloric Acid" and Viniger " Acetic Acid" have to be neutralized with a "Base" Baking Soda is a base. if you don't the acids that are sitting in the little places you didn't get thoroughly rinsed out will slowly continue to eat the metal under your paint. You can put the baking soda on directly or mix 1/4 to a 1/2 cup or more per gallon of water and spray it on the parts then rinse that off thoroughly once the bubbling has stopped. then coat the metal so it doesn't flash rust.
davem3945 I am EXTREMELY glad you pointed this out. Vinegar will NOT neutralize muriatic (or any other) acid. Baking soda (or another extremely basic compound) is the only thing that will neutralize an acidic substance. Thanks for your chemically related input! :)
@@TheMudiver Nope... The surface layer of steel has as positive charge if not neutralized properly... That is what causes flash rust.... The steel seeking to gain negative ions, oxidizes in the process. A better choice is Phosphoric acid. It changes rust to ferric phosphate and Iron III Oxide. Both of which are stable and resist formation of more rust. But it still needs to be neutralized with baking soda in distilled water or ammonia in a sprayer. To really fight flash rust, rinse with distilled water.. Chlorinated water is acidic.
I put a gallon of muriatic acid in my gas tank full of water so wondering what do I do in the morning when I dump it? I bought liquid seal and I was just going to put the gas tank in, seal it, fill it with gas as fast as possible
What a fantastic job you have done on the car. I don't care how long the videos are Pete I am learning so much. Thank you for that Pete. Lawrence from the United Kingdom.
I have been doing something similar to Pete for two years now on my restoration and his advise is right on. Right down to the wire brush between acid coats. I use acid called Metal Prep from HD which does the same thing. Results are amazing. Multiple applications is the ticket too.
Great video Pete! I appreciate you taking your time to teach us how to do these jobs. I like the way you keep all the BS out of it and show us how to get the results. That GTO is going to be a great present. It looks great! Thank to both of you for doing these videos.
Metalworks in Eugene OR dipped my CJ5 jeep project in a tank, the parts came back clean,free of rust and coated with rust inhibitor,it saved me so much time!!
only took a day to do all this work and it's done right. What more could one ask for. Love to see a true craftsman with pride at work. nice job keep it up
Thanks for the tip. We have 99 Jeep XJ. For surface rust developing on the roof and hood. Also got rust the doors around the windows. Thanks for sharing.
Love the videos Pete. Keep up the details and talk as long as needed. A newbie like myself needs to hear it all! My husband and I are restoring a 1926 Nash light six and the poor thing is pretty damn rusty.
Your videos show what it really takes to do this kind of work correctly so it looks great and lasts. Like you always say, prep work is what makes a great paint job. Your long videos are appreciated - and the car looks fantastic! Thanks my friend Pete!
Used this acid in concrete work for cleaning trowels and tools. Left a trowel overnight in the acid and the following day I noticed a discoloration line where the trowel corner had been submerged overnight. Thought nothing of it and went to the job site. When it came time for me to begin flat troweling the cement slab, I took one swipe with the trowel and when I put pressure on that corner it snapped right along the discolored line. Those trowels are hardened spring steel and that acid turned the metal to a brittle potato chip. Like Pete said, bad stuff if used improperly. Thanks for the vid, good info.
You do a great job! I love your no BS approach. You've been doing this for a living a long time and people need to realize that these methods are tried and true over a long and successful career in the industry. I'm in the middle of restoring an old bread truck and even though it's only 14' long, that's a lot of area to prep.
Hey, Pete! I love your videos and this one is especially great. I’ve been using muriatic acid for awhile now to strip parts, and the only piece of advice I can give you (for everyone’s safety) is to ALWAYS (outside or inside) wear a respirator. I understand that for the purpose of this video you needed to have your mask off for clear audio, but it’s always better to error on the side of caution when working with acids like this one. (It’ll f**k your lungs up). Thanks for the great content and never stop creating!!
Hell yeah Pete! You're doing a tremendous job on that car so keep sending those who don't like your videos to Davy Jone's Locker, Take care Brother in Blue Semper FORTIS!
You are a righteous Harley Dude who teaches me like the older brother I don’t have. Thanks for showing me the right way to solve my automotive rust issues! I had good luck with your advice on the spray rust killer from perma-tex that napa sells.When buying more spray I told the dude about you at Napa and he gave me a free Napa baseball cap! Thanks My Cousin Pete!
Great work Pete & Minnie , lots of hours mate. From Downunder in the Outback . Please keep the clips coming, and make them as long as you want to . Love you new shed as well 😊
Keep the vids as long as you want to get the info explained properly Pete. Anyone who complains can bog off to somewhere else and annoy them lol. I’m a single female of a certain age who is chuffed to have made a new driveway at the side of my house in order to start the restoration of my Ford mk2 Transit 1983 ex ambulance. I’m learning sooo much from you and want to do it stage by stage and do it right because il be putting on many decals once the paint job is completely finished. Then the campervan conversion will begin. I’m totally obsessed with rust prevention as I live literally 50 yards from the sea, salted roads and it rains here in Northern Ireland probably 350 days a year! The last thing I’m going to do is general prime and paint the way I’ve seen other van lifers do as in 2 yrs I’d have to be starting from scratch again. Thank goodness you are prepared to take the time to help as without you imparting your knowledge, I realise I would have ended up with the wrong products which wouldn’t have done the job. Thanks Pete and camera lady xx
I trust what you say and know you've been doing this forever but still have a hard time getting my mind around rinsing bare metal with water. Great video
Hey Pete, my name is Tommy. I am currently tearing apart my 77 gmc and then ik gonna rebuild it completely custom and I'm aiming for the Ridler Award... while I was yanking out my carpet in the cab I came across some surface rust on both sides and wasn't really sure if I should replace the floor pans or if there was something else I could do to fix the rust and then I came across your video and i even had muriatic acid in my garage... i really enjoyed your video and thought it was very informative and i thank you for that... as far as people telling you your videos are too long then i say scree them cuz in your videos you are very detailed about your instructions on what your doing and I myself would rather the video be 8 hours and very detailed over a short video and not very specific on the instructions... I hate it when your trying to follow along with someone on their video and they skip over a lot or take parts of the video out to make it shorter and then you have to guess what they did and then possibly really mess your project up, so again dont kiten to them man. I really appreciate your videos and the way you show us how to do certain things and how to do it correctly... keep up the videos Pete...
Love your videos Pete. I never had the opportunity to learn these skills growing up but was always interested. Restoring a 76 280z and watched most of your videos twice.
Thanks Pete! Never used muratic acid before. Definitely gonna try it on my project. In Indiana, rust is our state flower. I'd love to see a video of what you do when the sound deadener comes off the inside of the door and that metal rusts.
Nice, I bought muratic acid actually by mistake, but now I need to remove rust from a 93 f 150 frame. I’ve used muratic to clean block and brick many times, never thought about it for rust though. Great video , love how there’s no annoying background music keeping me from hearing your words, description is as important as the visuals in my opinion. I will sub your channel as well!
Very good and thorough video -- looks like Muriatic Acid does the trick, but gotta keep it off your skin, and especially your eyes. I'd wear coveralls myself, as I've done this kind of stuff, and it always sprinkles on your skin, and it burns like hell. I'm sure the car your restoring will turn out great. Enjoyed the Video.
Thanks Pete! I'm restoring (?) a old garden tractor cart. You're right about chemicals being weaker nowadays. All because of EPA and our Nanny State. I've used HCL to do many jobs.👍
Looks really good. You did an awesome job. I like the length of videos for what it's worth. Lots of really great detail and information that I for one really appreciate you sharing. Thanks Pete.
Hey Pete, Your left over soda residue (baking soda) is very basic, which will neutralize a portion of your acid. Might be why it seems to be less powerful. Just a heads up. Thank you for the videos!
If you’re teaching ( which you are) I don’t mind long videos. However if they go on and on with just plain bullshit I turn it off after a couple of minutes. Thanks for the lesson Pete! I work on vintage garden tractors and taking rust off and preserving the original paint is often preferred. Good work !
I want to know which of these chemicals will kill and stop rust on the inside of panels where you cant fit your hands to grind or sand??? just by spraying & then next spray some dome type preventative like POR and or chassis paints. What chemical would this be muriatic or hydrochloric? And next baking soda water wash to neutralize ?
You scared the crap out of the kid! He seemed like a nice kid, go easy on him Pete,save the rough stuff for the whiners who complain about long videos. You are one of a kind, great long winded video!
Loved the video brother. Just got my hands on a 68 LeMans. Entire body has surface rust. A few spots rusted out but car is in great shape otherwise. Will definitely be taking your advice and using the muriatic acid and vinegar. Keep the education coming brother
No one is allowed to place doors on stands line that n my shop. To risky to damage the body. I like to cup the door on the stands. . Good work Pete keep kicking ass!!!
That's a great well done rust removal, I learned a lot today that I'll put in practice!! Receive a big hug from Puerto Rico Pete and thanks for doing this helpful videos, you're helping us hugely, blessings!!
Your videos are great man so much great content and informative you really helping me. I’m about to start on my 63 bud and has surface rust all over thank you Tony
I always heard it's best to use phosphoric acid on cars because it leaves a phosphate coating which retards further rusting. It's what is in metal prep. I have bought it at the big orange box, but haven't seen it lately. Maybe the greenies think its bad for the environment or something.
Great stuff Pete. The beauty of the web is if they don't like it, they can make a choice and not watch. I'm about to go the epoxy primer route on my wagoneer project. I've considered the acid, but I'm afraid I wont get it all off before the epoxy.
Rewet with acid, let sit wash with water baking soda. It will stop acid reaction. Acid is diluted by what? Water. So mix enough water with it and it's just water after so much. Add baking soda and it's a done deal. Try on scrap and see. Used for decades. No issues if done right.
.. Another great video. I wish you and RUclips had been around when I was young, would have saved me a lot of money on products that did some times work but were quite expensive compared to muriatic acid and vinegar water chaser. Also, thanks for explaining how to deal with soda blasted metal. I'm sure you have heard the nay sayers talking about how paint won't stick to the metal after using it.
My new friend PETE. I v'e been watching your videos for quite a while now and yes they are long. But I like them long because you teach me more. The other guys with the short videos show the before and after. But not all the process of getting it done. Keep the videos the way that you want. Thanks for sharing.
Muriatic acid is also awesome in removing toilet bowl stains and build-up. I empty the bowl as much as I can and then pour in some acid. Put on the vent fan and close the door and let the acid work.
What's your timing for NOT putting it into epoxy primer? I hear some restorers put Ospho on if they plan on not getting to the body work for a while. Then they reactivate with Ospho and then rinse with water, dry and start body work.
You are right about the inveroment you live I live by the salty ocean and bay and everything grows fast. Yes if I leave bare metal over night without any treatment it will have a brown film of rust starting to grow.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Make sure to watch it till the end to see the FINISHED CAR PAINTED AND DONE! Leave a comment below... To see the car finished jump to 29:48
D.I.Y. AUTO SCHOOL did you like or did you not like the Fertan rust remover gel ?
Looks great Pete. ........Mini the body shop girl has to hold the camera still My Grandma can film better and she has no freakin arms.......
@@type2523 Yeah it worked great.... I make videos of all kinds of different stuff and how to tackle jobs in different ways.. Im still have to do a review on the other stuff that I didn't do it right, and I apoligize for that.. I was in a hurry... Ill get on it very soon.. Thanks!
Yeah that pitted crusted rust needs to be grinded with 36 grit on a grinder.Not even Navel Jelly treats that crusty pitted crap.My customers are cheap bastards.I can't afford to spend days and material on grinding and treating rust when this cheap bastards are paying me 650 dollars to restore rust buckets.
What a beautiful job you've done Pete , great video again. Very nice car , love Pontiacs. Helpful and handy hints as always. Thanks Pete and Minnie. Take care .
I saw on another video the average view time in only 2 min and everyone wants to see three days work in one minute (LOL). That silver paint looks dope and flawless! Today, nobody puts any pride into their work, its all about making a fast buck with no effort. Great Job Pete!
Pete... buddy. You did a good job stripping the car parts and getting ready for painting. I notice that someone has beat me to it telling you that your technically wrong about the chemicals. Muriatic acid is a very strong organic acid. That yellow film left after vinegar (acetic acid) is RUST that is initiated by those acids you are using. The acids eat into the metal because they combine with iron causing oxidation. Adding water when rinsing will also cause rust by introducing oxygen to the iron in the bare metal. To stop or slow down the oxidation (rusting) you should use a baking soda and water solution. If you want to leave it exposed over night or for longer you can keep oxygen away from the metal to prevent or at least slow down the rusting by coating with PAINT (primer) of some kind or oil as soon as possible. Once you do that then you don't have to be a a super rush or hurry to get the rest of the job done. ALSO, any vinegar or muriatic acid left inside that door is going to cause accelerated rusting so it is very important to properly neutralize the rusting chemical reactions using a buffer or alkaline solution such as baking soda or an oil to block the oxygen getting to the exposed metal. Old school is great but a little technology can preserve those parts for many years to come... a lot longer than just out the door with a nice paint job.
I LOVE that your videos are "long and drawn out" and I love your attitude about it. You don't owe any of us a damn thing and you're not required to teach us shit. Thank you for your time. I'm learning more from you than any other channel so yeah, thank you!!
Hallo Pete im Jean from South Africa. I have a few rusted fuel tanks here with me. This is basically how i got to your video. I love how nice you explain everything. Im no pro so every bit of advice from you helps me.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.
Take as much time as you want pete . Keep them vidos comming.
It's COMING
I swear, I could watch this video a hundred times and never tire of the information, action and see the mostly finished vehicle, all in one viewing!
DK, Omaha.
It's nice to see someone that is no BS and explains it thoroughly. Thanks Pete!
This ain't one of those cutesy little RUclips channels with the bite-sized clips meant for entertainment! If you come here and watch Pete's videos, you gotta treat it like going to a class! If you wanna learn properly, you gotta take the time TO learn, and learn how to do it right! So when Pete uploads a video, you WILL have to take time out to sit down and watch. Sometimes I gotta save the video for later when I have time to watch it, but I never regret when I finally do. Always a learning experience.
The results really speak for themselves. They're right there, plain as day for you to see. That finished product is absolutely gorgeous. You can't argue with the results! Great job! Excellent job! Thanks for another fine video, AND another beautiful, restored car put out into this world!
Ya gotta LOVE DIY PETE! Very knowledgable and quite generous to give his time and his trade secrets free on RUclips. Pete is frankly honest so very reliable in my opinion. Thanks Pete, watching, listening and learning!
If they don't want to watch 30 min. They don't want to learn. I appreciate the knowledge Pete.
Shit ppl can't do 5 min now days. Idk wtf happened but we going so far backwards. All this tech we should be way smarter and intelligent. Nope. Ppl get ran over for staring down at screen and ear buds, ppl killed over a text, running off road staring down. A fucking alien space ship could land and get out and dance for a min and get in and nobody would see them unless they're 40 or over. I see families out to eat and all have a screen. No Hows it going, what's up? Nope all quiet, stare, finger fone, eat, finger fone, leave and not say 1 sentence to nobody. Sad.
Forget how long the video, keep giving these great tips! This is a process that can't be rushed if you won't perfection. I'm thinking of taking on the task of doing the bodywork on my car (don't own a shop)....
I love watching this dude. Been doing it on and off for years. He has a personality that’s strong enough to be on television. He’s knowledgeable and entertaining at the same time. Right here from Big D, baby! We got some badass car guys in this city.
Ignore the people saying your videos are too long. This is great content.
My friend PETE, you are the man. I like how you cut that old cadillac in your front yard of the shop. You have taught me a lot through the years........I thank You.
I'm not going to learn everything in a day , watching one or two videos. Forget about people complaining, it takes a life time to be the best. Thanks for the video enjoyed it.
Ive beening using muratic acid for many many years works great....and neutralizing with vinegar, i would highly recommend one addition tip afterthe vinegar step... was with water and phosphoric acid the panel will not flash rust with orange flash rust... or just brush on phosphoric pure... last months with no rust..
So after phosphoric acid, is it immediately ready to primer and paint? Or does phosphoric acid need to be washed off with water and baking soda
Thank you pete. I'm 25 years old and taking on a 50 year old project. It's nice to see the older fellas taking the time and teach the new generation the right and patient way. There's a thousand shortcuts out there these days and you're one of the few honest ones doing it right.
Well Pete here's the deal every class I ever took was least an hour long or longer . I've learned more from watching your videos so you take as long as you need to explain all the procedures in plain English. Doesn't get any better than that!!!
Dude, you can't neutralize one Acid with another Acid. Both "Hydrochloric Acid" and Viniger "
Acetic Acid" have to be neutralized with a "Base" Baking Soda is a base. if you don't the acids that are sitting in the little places you didn't get thoroughly rinsed out will slowly continue to eat the metal under your paint. You can put the baking soda on directly or mix 1/4 to a 1/2 cup or more per gallon of water and spray it on the parts then rinse that off thoroughly once the bubbling has stopped. then coat the metal so it doesn't flash rust.
davem3945 I am EXTREMELY glad you pointed this out. Vinegar will NOT neutralize muriatic (or any other) acid. Baking soda (or another extremely basic compound) is the only thing that will neutralize an acidic substance. Thanks for your chemically related input! :)
@@TheMudiver using enough water will eventually nutralize the acid. I would use pH test strips to confirm in all the right areas before moving on.
@@TheMudiver Nope... The surface layer of steel has as positive charge if not neutralized properly... That is what causes flash rust.... The steel seeking to gain negative ions, oxidizes in the process. A better choice is Phosphoric acid. It changes rust to ferric phosphate and Iron III Oxide. Both of which are stable and resist formation of more rust. But it still needs to be neutralized with baking soda in distilled water or ammonia in a sprayer. To really fight flash rust, rinse with distilled water.. Chlorinated water is acidic.
I put a gallon of muriatic acid in my gas tank full of water so wondering what do I do in the morning when I dump it? I bought liquid seal and I was just going to put the gas tank in, seal it, fill it with gas as fast as possible
You don’t want to neutralize with baking soda it will leave a residue. Best way is ammonia because it completely evaporates and leaves at neutral.
Another great show brother . you give more information to your listeners than a school does.thank you for your hard work and time.
What a fantastic job you have done on the car. I don't care how long the videos are Pete I am learning so much. Thank you for that Pete. Lawrence from the United Kingdom.
I have been doing something similar to Pete for two years now on my restoration and his advise is right on. Right down to the wire brush between acid coats. I use acid called Metal Prep from HD which does the same thing. Results are amazing. Multiple applications is the ticket too.
I feel like you gave us lessons from your heart.
Great video Pete! I appreciate you taking your time to teach us how to do these jobs. I like the way you keep all the BS out of it and show us how to get the results. That GTO is going to be a great present. It looks great! Thank to both of you for doing these videos.
Metalworks in Eugene OR dipped my CJ5 jeep project in a tank, the parts came back clean,free of rust and coated with rust inhibitor,it saved me so much time!!
only took a day to do all this work and it's done right. What more could one ask for. Love to see a true craftsman with pride at work. nice job keep it up
Thanks for the tip. We have 99 Jeep XJ. For surface rust developing on the roof and hood.
Also got rust the doors around the windows.
Thanks for sharing.
Pete, you do really nice work I always watch your videos while I'm restoring my Chevelle and Camaro's
Love the videos Pete. Keep up the details and talk as long as needed. A newbie like myself needs to hear it all! My husband and I are restoring a 1926 Nash light six and the poor thing is pretty damn rusty.
Your videos show what it really takes to do this kind of work correctly so it looks great and lasts. Like you always say, prep work is what makes a great paint job. Your long videos are appreciated - and the car looks fantastic! Thanks my friend Pete!
THANKS PETE This information is GOLD! I have been in the car business over 30 years and im still learning things. Great Video.
Used this acid in concrete work for cleaning trowels and tools. Left a trowel overnight in the acid and the following day I noticed a discoloration line where the trowel corner had been submerged overnight. Thought nothing of it and went to the job site. When it came time for me to begin flat troweling the cement slab, I took one swipe with the trowel and when I put pressure on that corner it snapped right along the discolored line. Those trowels are hardened spring steel and that acid turned the metal to a brittle potato chip. Like Pete said, bad stuff if used improperly. Thanks for the vid, good info.
I appreciate you taking your time and teaching the right way to do things
You do a great job! I love your no BS approach. You've been doing this for a living a long time and people need to realize that these methods are tried and true over a long and successful career in the industry. I'm in the middle of restoring an old bread truck and even though it's only 14' long, that's a lot of area to prep.
Good thorough job Pete. Video is not too long when you're teaching us something. We love ya man, and Mini too. Car looks perfect.
Hey, Pete! I love your videos and this one is especially great. I’ve been using muriatic acid for awhile now to strip parts, and the only piece of advice I can give you (for everyone’s safety) is to ALWAYS (outside or inside) wear a respirator.
I understand that for the purpose of this video you needed to have your mask off for clear audio, but it’s always better to error on the side of caution when working with acids like this one. (It’ll f**k your lungs up).
Thanks for the great content and never stop creating!!
I don't think your videos are too long. At least you go into detail explaining things
Hell yeah Pete! You're doing a tremendous job on that car so keep sending those who don't like your videos to Davy Jone's Locker, Take care Brother in Blue Semper FORTIS!
You are a righteous Harley Dude who teaches me like the older brother I don’t have.
Thanks for showing me the right way to solve my automotive rust issues!
I had good luck with your advice on the spray rust killer from perma-tex that napa sells.When buying more spray I told the dude about you at Napa and he gave me a free Napa baseball cap!
Thanks My Cousin Pete!
Pete your hard work is paying off . So far so good with the restoration so far
Great work Pete & Minnie , lots of hours mate. From Downunder in the Outback . Please keep the clips coming, and make them as long as you want to . Love you new shed as well 😊
Keep the vids as long as you want to get the info explained properly Pete. Anyone who complains can bog off to somewhere else and annoy them lol. I’m a single female of a certain age who is chuffed to have made a new driveway at the side of my house in order to start the restoration of my Ford mk2 Transit 1983 ex ambulance. I’m learning sooo much from you and want to do it stage by stage and do it right because il be putting on many decals once the paint job is completely finished. Then the campervan conversion will begin. I’m totally obsessed with rust prevention as I live literally 50 yards from the sea, salted roads and it rains here in Northern Ireland probably 350 days a year! The last thing I’m going to do is general prime and paint the way I’ve seen other van lifers do as in 2 yrs I’d have to be starting from scratch again. Thank goodness you are prepared to take the time to help as without you imparting your knowledge, I realise I would have ended up with the wrong products which wouldn’t have done the job. Thanks Pete and camera lady xx
Perfect Pete. Got a 1972 Plymouth Satellite lotta surface rust. Thanks for this . I sincerely appreciate the knowledge
I trust what you say and know you've been doing this forever but still have a hard time getting my mind around rinsing bare metal with water. Great video
Video not too long. Keep doing what your doing. VERY THOROUGH AND INFORMATIVE THANK YOU FOR WHAT YOU DO!!!!
Yeah, I’ve stripped em and let sit for month after a wipe down with phosphoric acid. Metal prep 69. Love the no frill approach
dont worry about how long your videos are.....if they dont know how to fast forward then theyve got bigger problems than removing rust. great video.
Keep it up Pete, you did not swear or got mad, good video and your blood pressure must .be down to a normal level.
Hey Pete, my name is Tommy. I am currently tearing apart my 77 gmc and then ik gonna rebuild it completely custom and I'm aiming for the Ridler Award... while I was yanking out my carpet in the cab I came across some surface rust on both sides and wasn't really sure if I should replace the floor pans or if there was something else I could do to fix the rust and then I came across your video and i even had muriatic acid in my garage... i really enjoyed your video and thought it was very informative and i thank you for that... as far as people telling you your videos are too long then i say scree them cuz in your videos you are very detailed about your instructions on what your doing and I myself would rather the video be 8 hours and very detailed over a short video and not very specific on the instructions... I hate it when your trying to follow along with someone on their video and they skip over a lot or take parts of the video out to make it shorter and then you have to guess what they did and then possibly really mess your project up, so again dont kiten to them man. I really appreciate your videos and the way you show us how to do certain things and how to do it correctly... keep up the videos Pete...
Holy moly, you may be a little cranky at times, but you do incredible work. That GTO is beautiful.
Love your videos Pete. I never had the opportunity to learn these skills growing up but was always interested. Restoring a 76 280z and watched most of your videos twice.
Keep up the good work man. Nothing wrong with getting down to business and speaking detail information!
Thanks Pete! Never used muratic acid before. Definitely gonna try it on my project. In Indiana, rust is our state flower. I'd love to see a video of what you do when the sound deadener comes off the inside of the door and that metal rusts.
My ford van is starting to rust thanks to all the salt this year
Love your videos Pete and appreciate that you take the time to show the correct way of doing things.
Thanx Fer taken pride in rust removal pete, and making sher yer point on every step of the process. Much learned
Nice, I bought muratic acid actually by mistake, but now I need to remove rust from a 93 f 150 frame. I’ve used muratic to clean block and brick many times, never thought about it for rust though. Great video , love how there’s no annoying background music keeping me from hearing your words, description is as important as the visuals in my opinion. I will sub your channel as well!
It's like a big tree it takes a long time to grow. Great job and well worth the time to watch until the end. Thank you!!!!
Very good and thorough video -- looks like Muriatic Acid does the trick, but gotta
keep it off your skin, and especially your eyes. I'd wear coveralls myself, as I've
done this kind of stuff, and it always sprinkles on your skin, and it burns like hell.
I'm sure the car your restoring will turn out great. Enjoyed the Video.
Excellent vid as always Pete. You and Mini do a great job on these videos, lots of info and cool tips. Keep em coming!!
Thanks Pete! I'm restoring (?) a old garden tractor cart. You're right about chemicals being weaker nowadays. All because of EPA and our Nanny State. I've used HCL to do many jobs.👍
Looks really good. You did an awesome job. I like the length of videos for what it's worth. Lots of really great detail and information that I for one really appreciate you sharing. Thanks Pete.
your video wasn't to long i found it very informitive and ive been watching many videos and this is the best one ive found to remove rust ty
A big thank you Pete for showing us how to tackle rust issues. 🍻
Hey Pete, Your left over soda residue (baking soda) is very basic, which will neutralize a portion of your acid. Might be why it seems to be less powerful. Just a heads up. Thank you for the videos!
Promise these stuff will blow your mind bud! Perfect for the kind of rust u got!
make your videos longer haha Honestly I have watched probably 100+ hrs. and really thankful you made them. Saved me probably 10k$
Thanks Pete , Always Great Videos. A person is never to old to learn to do it Right
If you’re teaching ( which you are) I don’t mind long videos. However if they go on and on with just plain bullshit I turn it off after a couple of minutes. Thanks for the lesson Pete! I work on vintage garden tractors and taking rust off and preserving the original paint is often preferred. Good work !
I’ve learned a lot from Pete. And he is a brother of the sea.
I want to know which of these chemicals will kill and stop rust on the inside of panels where you cant fit your hands to grind or sand??? just by spraying & then next spray some dome type preventative like POR and or chassis paints. What chemical would this be muriatic or hydrochloric? And next baking soda water wash to neutralize ?
You scared the crap out of the kid! He seemed like a nice kid, go easy on him Pete,save the rough stuff for the whiners who complain about long videos. You are one of a kind, great long winded video!
Thanks Pete, another old rodder here. Never used muratic acid, I may give it a try. Ospho man here but I know how much work it all is.
Loved the video brother. Just got my hands on a 68 LeMans. Entire body has surface rust. A few spots rusted out but car is in great shape otherwise. Will definitely be taking your advice and using the muriatic acid and vinegar. Keep the education coming brother
No one is allowed to place doors on stands line that n my shop. To risky to damage the body. I like to cup the door on the stands. . Good work Pete keep kicking ass!!!
That's a great well done rust removal, I learned a lot today that I'll put in practice!! Receive a big hug from Puerto Rico Pete and thanks for doing this helpful videos, you're helping us hugely, blessings!!
Thanks for your time Pete.
Great video man! Looks awesome!
Your videos are great man so much great content and informative you really helping me. I’m about to start on my 63 bud and has surface rust all over thank you Tony
Love your videos, Pete and your attitude, FTW
I always heard it's best to use phosphoric acid on cars because it leaves a phosphate coating which retards further rusting. It's what is in metal prep. I have bought it at the big orange box, but haven't seen it lately. Maybe the greenies think its bad for the environment or something.
Product you bought is 20% concentration. Stop going to Walmart. Lowes has the 30% concentration and you get TWO gallons for $10.
Love ya work Pete
Can we see some old customers cars, that you did years ago. Just to see how well your work ages?
Your mate Stu from Australia
If you do it inside the fumes will corrode everything out of steel in your workshop - even your tools. One more reason to follow Pete's advice.
Muriatic = hydrochloric acid, vinegar = acetic acid.
Great stuff Pete. The beauty of the web is if they don't like it, they can make a choice and not watch.
I'm about to go the epoxy primer route on my wagoneer project. I've considered the acid, but I'm afraid I wont get it all off before the epoxy.
Rewet with acid, let sit wash with water baking soda. It will stop acid reaction. Acid is diluted by what? Water. So mix enough water with it and it's just water after so much. Add baking soda and it's a done deal. Try on scrap and see. Used for decades. No issues if done right.
Yeah Pete Greg from Australia
Appreciate the time you put in there's no shortcuts👍
.. Another great video. I wish you and RUclips had been around when I was young, would have saved me a lot of money on products that did some times work but were quite expensive compared to muriatic acid and vinegar water chaser. Also, thanks for explaining how to deal with soda blasted metal. I'm sure you have heard the nay sayers talking about how paint won't stick to the metal after using it.
If we Gen X had this tech, we'd solved half the problems by now. Not eat tide pods, die from cinnamon, and be YT stars.
Your videos aren’t too long… If anything, they’re just right!👍
Just like me. Not 2 long just right she said.
Good job Petet!!!
My new friend PETE. I v'e been watching your videos for quite a while now and yes they are long. But I like them long because you teach me more. The other guys with the short videos show the before and after. But not all the process of getting it done. Keep the videos the way that you want. Thanks for sharing.
Rewatching this vidio and still loving what you do! Looks amazing brother! A lot of hard work but wow does it look good! You're the man Pete!
"You think my video is too long, I don't give a shit". Great stuff Pete, hopefully you're alive and well.
Muriatic acid is also awesome in removing toilet bowl stains and build-up. I empty the bowl as much as I can and then pour in some acid. Put on the vent fan and close the door and let the acid work.
What's your timing for NOT putting it into epoxy primer? I hear some restorers put Ospho on if they plan on not getting to the body work for a while. Then they reactivate with Ospho and then rinse with water, dry and start body work.
Read my other comments. What I said exactly. That's from a old timer from PPG paints. Water or water and baking soda. Stops reaction fast.
dude dont worry about the haters , i liked the video and i like the car.. people dont appriciate learning .. keep doing what you do ..
You are right about the inveroment you live I live by the salty ocean and bay and everything grows fast. Yes if I leave bare metal over night without any treatment it will have a brown film of rust starting to grow.
Best teaching video's to watch. Thanks Gary
Great tip on removing rust, am sure I'll be doing that myself in a future project.
Thanks for the video, this retire U.S. Marine appreciates the detail of this class of using these dangerous chemicals. OhhRah