Run the drill slower and your bits will last a lot longer and you'll get better holes. Plus in steel it will normally end up making the hole faster. Most people run drills to fast causing the bits to get to hot and go dull.
I'm a saw doctor by trade, well I was ages ago. Drill bits can be sharpened by hand quite easily. Just use a grinding wheel, hold the drill bit by hand at approximately the same angle they were to begin on the two sharp faces, gently press against the grinding wheel and rotate away from the sharp edge while pressing a bit harder as you go to follow the wedge of the cutting edge. Take a bit of practice but easy with no special tools needed. And just repeat for the second cutting edge.
Watch the channel "this old Tony" sharping drills is the video. Gives you all the basics and things to feel when resharpening them by hand on a bench grinder or belt sander. Once you understand how a drill works, you'll know what to do when hand sharpening.
Buy a drill sharpening machine, they are pretty cheap, it's a grinder that you can lock the drill bit into it where you set up the main relief angle & then twist the drill to grind both sides of the flute then you set it again to grind a second angle that leaves a sharp cutting area a couple of mm wide which is the actual cutting area of the tip of the drill, afterwards you use a round stone to debur any sharp overhangs in the middle of the flute. I used to do this by hand years ago at work as a fitter whenever things got blunt but nowadays you can buy machines for noobs that will do it just as good. If you're going to buy a set of drills try to buy Cobalt drills from brands like Starrett, P&N, Frost, IRWIN or Sutton Tools. The Cobalt drills are mainly used for cutting through hardened steel, stainless steel etc but they are also great for Aluminium because whenever cutting Aluminium the metal seems to chatter as it cuts until the Aluminium heats up very high from friction which normally burns out your drill bits making them go blunt all the time. If you can use a bit of lube when cutting Aluminium it helps a great deal dishwashing liquid with water is okay so you don't have to use acetone all the time to clean the Aluminium to remove oils for welding.
Drill doctor, buy USA made drills from msc direct.. I keep common size 1/4,5/16,3/8….in cobalt for use in hand drilling,,, makes a big difference in steel..
Drill at slower speeds with lube. I would get a Drill Doctor to sharpen the bits you have. As with everything you get what you pay for, find a good tool supplier and purchase a better set of bits.
Try Ultra Tef-Gel on your sis fasteners. I use it on my outboards in saltwater and it works…the outboard mfg have another approach : What OMC recommended to use was OMC gasket sealer (still available), I have heard that Merc perfect seal is the same product.
I'm not sure if Boeing still does surplus sales but try doing some searches for that. If you can find some double margin (2 step) bits from them they are probably the best you can get.
Find a machine tool supplier and get a set of hss/cobalt bits 118 degree tip with parabolic flutes. They are expensive but well worth the money for holes deeper than 1/2" in aluminum. Unless of course you have a tendency of breaking them. A little cutting oil or grease goes a long way to help drilling sticky aluminum. Also you can buy tap driver kit for impacts at the auto parts suppliers, they have a square drive for your impact and hold the tap with a O ring and drive it by the square on the tap. But they only work with standardized machine taps not cheap off brand stuff. As for taps you want spiral machine taps purchased from a machine tool supplier. They are designed to be used with a power driver
Watch ToT(this old Tony) on here. He has a video about sharpening bits. I never could until I watched his and finally understood how. Plus he is funny to watch anyway. Another good tip is to have friends that work near an airport making those shipping containers for ups(or other jobs with bits). Lol he brought me thousands of rivets and tons of bits!
If the plate is tapped, bore the holes in the pump out so there’s no thread otherwise it’ll never transfer the torque from the fastener into clamping force, it’s all wasted fighting the threads.
I'll make a vid (eventually..lol) and show you a trick I learned from a young machinist that worked for me 15 years ago on how to freehand grind a perfectly (damn near) center cutting drill that will drill ON SIZE. Drill doctors are garbage but do work for a d.i.y.er. A proper drill griding machine is in the $3000 range. Can I be forward and make a suggestion? Add some washers under your flange bolts. Concentrated stress moments = potential flange casting cracks.
Eric I would like to sponsor your team but not sure how to do that I’ve reached out to my friends that own boats just looking for advice on how to do that ????
Jim, shoot me an email at Eric.usjsa@gmail.com and I’ll send you my phone information. We’d love any sponsorship help since we essentially are 100% self funded at this point. Thanks for reaching out.
@@robwigglezz944 Yeah my dad was a machinist man he could sharpen a bit unbelievable But not me so much. I can Touch Them up if they're not Real dull not badly chip
Run the drill slower and your bits will last a lot longer and you'll get better holes. Plus in steel it will normally end up making the hole faster. Most people run drills to fast causing the bits to get to hot and go dull.
drill doctor saves $
Cool tip on the tap with the nylock nut I have a drill doctor works well For sharpening bits thanks for sharing GODSPEED
Thanks for taking the time to show us this it is intriguing
I dig the build process, but the wife is already telling me NO... 😆 🤣 she knows me all too well.🤷♂️🤦♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣
There is a thing called a Drill Doctor.You sharpen bits very easy even for you! LOL! Look it up Im sure its what you want!
Steady as she goes get the job done. Next...As Always, May God Bless you and yours! 😇
Drill doctor for sharpening drill bits
Awesome more build content !
I'm a saw doctor by trade, well I was ages ago. Drill bits can be sharpened by hand quite easily. Just use a grinding wheel, hold the drill bit by hand at approximately the same angle they were to begin on the two sharp faces, gently press against the grinding wheel and rotate away from the sharp edge while pressing a bit harder as you go to follow the wedge of the cutting edge. Take a bit of practice but easy with no special tools needed. And just repeat for the second cutting edge.
Good to see ya getting your hands dirty again!
Watch the channel "this old Tony" sharping drills is the video. Gives you all the basics and things to feel when resharpening them by hand on a bench grinder or belt sander. Once you understand how a drill works, you'll know what to do when hand sharpening.
Drill Doctor drill bit sharper and Bo-Lube or Tap Majic for drilling lubricant
Buy a drill sharpening machine, they are pretty cheap, it's a grinder that you can lock the drill bit into it where you set up the main relief angle & then twist the drill to grind both sides of the flute then you set it again to grind a second angle that leaves a sharp cutting area a couple of mm wide which is the actual cutting area of the tip of the drill, afterwards you use a round stone to debur any sharp overhangs in the middle of the flute.
I used to do this by hand years ago at work as a fitter whenever things got blunt but nowadays you can buy machines for noobs that will do it just as good. If you're going to buy a set of drills try to buy Cobalt drills from brands like Starrett, P&N, Frost, IRWIN or Sutton Tools. The Cobalt drills are mainly used for cutting through hardened steel, stainless steel etc but they are also great for Aluminium because whenever cutting Aluminium the metal seems to chatter as it cuts until the Aluminium heats up very high from friction which normally burns out your drill bits making them go blunt all the time. If you can use a bit of lube when cutting Aluminium it helps a great deal dishwashing liquid with water is okay so you don't have to use acetone all the time to clean the Aluminium to remove oils for welding.
Can't get enough jet sprint content.. love seeing how it's done.. I can race one ..just not up with the tech
Cheers
Drill doctor, buy USA made drills from msc direct.. I keep common size 1/4,5/16,3/8….in cobalt for use in hand drilling,,, makes a big difference in steel..
Drill at slower speeds with lube. I would get a Drill Doctor to sharpen the bits you have. As with everything you get what you pay for, find a good tool supplier and purchase a better set of bits.
Try Ultra Tef-Gel on your sis fasteners. I use it on my outboards in saltwater and it works…the outboard mfg have another approach : What OMC recommended to use was OMC gasket sealer (still available), I have heard that Merc perfect seal is the same product.
They make cutting wax for aluminum. It works great on your drill bits and saw blades. What Adhesive do you use? I used Lord Adhesive for aluminum.
I'm not sure if Boeing still does surplus sales but try doing some searches for that. If you can find some double margin (2 step) bits from them they are probably the best you can get.
Find a machine tool supplier and get a set of hss/cobalt bits 118 degree tip with parabolic flutes. They are expensive but well worth the money for holes deeper than 1/2" in aluminum. Unless of course you have a tendency of breaking them. A little cutting oil or grease goes a long way to help drilling sticky aluminum. Also you can buy tap driver kit for impacts at the auto parts suppliers, they have a square drive for your impact and hold the tap with a O ring and drive it by the square on the tap. But they only work with standardized machine taps not cheap off brand stuff. As for taps you want spiral machine taps purchased from a machine tool supplier. They are designed to be used with a power driver
There should be a bunch of youtube videos on sharpening a drill bit.
Buy a drill doctor works great
Lennox Lube for aluminum and non Ferrous metals, also slower drill speeds unless u have highspeed drill bits
my go to in the shop i a drill dr for small stuff
Watch ToT(this old Tony) on here. He has a video about sharpening bits. I never could until I watched his and finally understood how. Plus he is funny to watch anyway. Another good tip is to have friends that work near an airport making those shipping containers for ups(or other jobs with bits). Lol he brought me thousands of rivets and tons of bits!
Dude that tap tip is pretty good! I just got a tap-matic for the mill. But I don't use the mill to tap a lot. Imma try that!
Find a product called “Drill Doctor”. It is absolutely worth it. So easy to sharpen your bits.
If the plate is tapped, bore the holes in the pump out so there’s no thread otherwise it’ll never transfer the torque from the fastener into clamping force, it’s all wasted fighting the threads.
you need a garage helper to pass on all this great knowledge to. 🤔
I'll make a vid (eventually..lol) and show you a trick I learned from a young machinist that worked for me 15 years ago on how to freehand grind a perfectly (damn near) center cutting drill that will drill ON SIZE. Drill doctors are garbage but do work for a d.i.y.er. A proper drill griding machine is in the $3000 range. Can I be forward and make a suggestion? Add some washers under your flange bolts. Concentrated stress moments = potential flange casting cracks.
Just buy cobalt drill bits. Stay sharp a VERY VERY long time. Probably 40 to 1 over HSS bits.
Cutting, tapping or drilling aluminum use WD40 or Isopropyl alcohol. FIW
Here's what I'm thinking. Get Cleetus to build a sprint boat track at the Freedom Factory on that extra land he has in the back of Freedom Factory.
👍
Drill Doctor
Eric I would like to sponsor your team but not sure how to do that I’ve reached out to my friends that own boats just looking for advice on how to do that ????
Jim, shoot me an email at Eric.usjsa@gmail.com and I’ll send you my phone information. We’d love any sponsorship help since we essentially are 100% self funded at this point. Thanks for reaching out.
Looks like you need to invest in a bigger race shop
Keep all your old bits, just resharpen.
Buy a "drill doctor ". anybody can sharpen a drill. Uses the JIG method. The machine is small, fits on the bench, fairly cheap...
Bit sharpener from hobo fraight like 40$ does up to half inch. Nothing to it.
Leaning how to touch them up by hand is very useful though. I'll still use the drill grinder for hoggin those butchered ones though.
@@robwigglezz944 Yeah my dad was a machinist man he could sharpen a bit unbelievable But not me so much. I can Touch Them up if they're not Real dull not badly chip
buy a drill doctor