Kyle, I work on yachts, don't use silicone underwater. We only use "sikaflex 295 uv". Usually black below the water line. Black seems to hold up well under water. Clean very well with acetone first and sikaflex the bolt threads too.
@@otm646 I can't remember exactly what it is, but 3M makes some stuff that's applied in much the same way as a silicone sealant. Whether or not if can fill the gap around the housing may be a different story.
As a marine tech for the last 20+ years I would recommend 3m 5200 for that application as well to scuff the surfaces with 80 grit then a good wipe down with acetone. Yes in the future it may be a pain to remove but that’s way better than a leak.
@@pw383426 hull itself isn't exposed to that except where the now welded-in plate is, doubt those welds are going anywhere unless they really trash the bottom of that boat..the intake housing goes out the transom straight to the pump assembly, doubt that area would really need Sea Goin..
Ive done hundreds of thru hull transducers using 5200 and none have ever leaked. Its not the easiest stuff to work with but it works at keeping water out. I think 5200 would work fine for sealing but I would also beef up the transom hole and weld some brackets to the beefed up area that mechanically fasten the transom to the pump, or maybe some stringers that fasten the hull to the transom hole. That transom is going to flex somewhat and the flex could break the 5200 seal without some mechanical support. Awesome work so far guys!
There is no advantage of 5200 over 4200 in this application. You know that pump is going to have to come back out they shouldn't have to fight 5200 with and debonder to make it happen.
@@otm646 this is true, I’ve used 4200 with great success too, and if they want to have the pump easier to remove for service than 4200 would be better.
Can't wait to see when y'all took on the Hoonicorn! I kinda think I got my money on you guys. I love the Hoonicorn, and Lia is a little beast, but the boiz got that Fast Panda.
A lot of people are sayin first 5200 is a bitch to rebuild/take off if you wanna change something, and the it requires a lot of work after long-term use. Idk though, just what I've read.
@@ichoozjc I noticed that too, no one with half a brain would use 5200 for a removable part. Since bots don't have half a brain maybe you are on to something.
That thing is going to be a BEAST!!👍 You should have counter sunk the mounting bolts, then plug welded them in place before welding the plate to the boat. Then you would not have to drill holes all the way through the boat. You would have had permanent mounting studs.
the plate is aluminium and the screws are steel, they cannot be welded together. if they want to not drill through they can put in threaded inserts in the holes.
@@pippaengroda I know that they can't be welded together. This is why I suggested plug welding the screws in place. Filling the countersunk hole with aluminum, would also fill the screw driver slots. You could even grind more slots around the edge of the screw to create more spots for the aluminum to fill in to. This should be plenty to stop the screw from rotating. I would not recommend using threaded inserts for something like this. It will have significant force trying to pull those inserts out of the soft aluminum.
@@SomeBoredGuy69 that sounds really sketchy. Trying to fill the screw head with aluminium? The screw is likely galvanized that will degass and wreck the weld. It would be less sketchy to glue them in place. But i would not want that in there. If they start spinning it will be a nightmare to get out and fix. If really wanting studs there are studs that have splines and can be pressed in place. Just like wheel studs. But i would still not want that since if they break you cannot get them out without some major cutting to the plate or bottom of the boat. I would rather have a few counter sunk heads on the bottom of the boat. With threaded inserts the screws will likely break before ripping out of the aluminium. Its used in loads of applications and is nothing new. But the heads on the bottom will work fine aswell :)
All that work and it looks great! what about protecting the pump since its long...maybe extend the bottom of the boat to protect the bottom of the pump? Think about all the jumps and submerged trees you will encounter that may leverage that pump!!
You could weld a ring on the inside if you need more surface for the silicone to adhere too..... and as soon as I type this you mention it. Good work guys, looking good.
Can't wait to see you and Cleetus line up your jet boats. Ready to see where the K-swap stack's up against a Rotax jetski motor going to be interesting 🤔
There's been a k swap jet boat done years ago. There's not many that have seen it but if you search k24 jet boat it's there. It's probably going to smoke the seadoo's when it's turned and it sounds awesome
I can't wait to see the rooster tail that you will be able to throw with that. Maybe you can plaster Cleetus as you blow past him. You definitely ate going to have a beast with this motor and pump in this little rig.
Beautiful sunny day in Florida, here in the 27 deg northern Utah were recovering from 14.5" of heavy wet snow! I f-in love it! Just not the cold yo, no ty. I digress, boats gonna fly, hopefully not literally
The good thing was they measured current clearances with where the pump is to where motor mounts, but if they did know about mounting it properly from the start they might’ve been able to move the whole setup back a bit further Forsure! Either way, AMPED to see this progress and watch the Bois create some super unique and fun toys we all wish we could go for RipperRooos in!
Yeah, jet boats are usually barely in the water at the stern, hopefully there is enough boat in the water back there to be able to suck enough water in continuously. I guess we will see.
The farther back the better! Just like drag jet boats like Finney's, the farther you move the jet pump back the more the boat will come out of the water at speed
You guys have come a long way with your fab work through the years. This little boat is going to be Razzle Dazzle on the water. Hope the whole Boosted Boiz crew has an epic holiday season.
Can I just for one say I am HYPE about the boat?? Love that yall are taking more time to do it, and give it the go it deserves! Cause bro cleets ski powered boats are quick af, now imagine a CAR motor making 350hp-350trq with a turbo. Wild
Looks like it’s sitting pretty high up. Guessing it’s due to the bracing in the bottom of the hull. However, ride plates on a boat are typically level with the bottom of the hull.
Looking great Kyle,and Wyatt.Please use strips similar to the cut off pieces in a wide X brace on the floor beside the cut-out mount,and on the transom where the jet mounts.Your motor is so much above the power these were designed for.You'll see,and be glad.Have fun guys.Merry Christmas to All ! Edit=For the floor braces,drill holes on their bottom before welding so water can get to your sump pumps.
Typically You want to have the intake of the pump set back as far as possible. Also the ride plate under the pump outside of the hull needs to be at the same elevation of the bottom of the hull. Helps the boat act longer, and puts you on plane faster. Take a look at finnegans pump set up on his drag boat
Clean and effective way to seal the transom and jet would be to weld inside/or outside, both even. Weld a ring (short tube) around the jet onto the transom. 1 inch wide ring, even 1/2 inch ring would do. Then fill that void between the jet and transom with the marine sealant. Look and and work way better then just globbing the sealant on/around. Basically making a sleeved sealant grommet. Same idea as the jet block, but circular.
I've replaced a few jet pump mounting plates over the years as a watercraft tech and my fav sealant is "the right stuff" Sea Doo actually calls to use it. Stuff hardens up as rubber. It's pricey but good.
Kyle's not a self taught welder. He took shop/welding classes all through high school. Then he went to his local community college and got his full certification. He was going to be a pipeline welder, if his RUclips career fell through.
Man this brings back memories of my Jetski JonBoat! I really miss that thing. 52mph in a 14ft aluminum boat is screaming! Theres a build video on my channel if anyone wants to check it out.
I probably wouldve welded the sides of the intake uphill instead of downhill wouldve had to turn the welder down a little but it may have burnt in better and be stronger Idk what i was always told on steel not sure of aluminum. Love the jet boat
Would love to see this boat get a full wrap like James and Garret have done would look sick. Maybe a monster energy one or a black and red themed boosted Boiz livery
If you ever need to do any sort of painting on it before you send it away for paint, use a 50/50 mix of methylated spirits and water, and aggressively rub it on with a red scotch brite pad, then wipe it down with the same stuff (but clean of course) until there's no grey residue left on the rags, and then use a high quality 2 pack epoxy urethane primer to seal it. After that you can do what you want with it. This is PPG's prep procedure for doing repairs or repaints on aluminium boats. The Epoxy Urethane primer isn't specified in the procedure, but Delfleet etch and epoxy primers are specified there.
Yep can seal both sides, thin layer to get into the gap, wet finger/glove to smooth and dry/tack up, and then go around it again for that durable seal.
Weld your pump plate to the bottom of the boat, cut the center area out, and use an identical one on the inside, gasket between them. The bevel is welded to the plate and hid in the thickness of the plate. Picture it like a turbo pedestal spacer that penetrates the bottom of the boat and you just weld the seam.
3M 4200 or 5200 marine sealant is just what the doctor ordered for that gap. Has no problem holding up to abuse and salt water. Much stronger than any silicone or rtv gasket maker!
The ride plate needs to be sorted out, it is a critical part of the way the boat handles, it should be flush with the bottom of the hull, putting a straight edge on the hull and out against the bottom of the ride plate is how you start. Check out Finnegan's channel where he is messing with that boat he and Newburn were playing with last summer, or ask around if you can find some go fast jet boat guys in the area. Fiberglass and aluminum are different to work with, but the fundamentals of loading a jet and getting the ride plate right are going to be the same.
🤔 maybe even add a few small gussets for strength to those frames right next to it. 👍🏻to help from twisting and and up or down force considering the amount of horses your gunna have .💪😉👍🏻
Great Job a little miss understanding but still everything is ok it's looking really nice the K series is going to look amazing in there and run even batter you guys are going to have so much fun with this Jet Boat it's going to be a blast.
you guys really need to get an air powered grinder, and a man eater cutting wheel with all the aluminum work youll be doing on the boat and in the future.. basically just a 4" skillsaw blade, on a grinder.. but it has to be air powered, electric grinder will bind up, air powered will spin free if it gets stuck in the material. boat is sick though, i really want one now lol.
You expect silicone to hold up to jumping a jet boat with likely rubber mounts? Maybe I'm missing something but that's like a temporary solution at best and a way to sink at worst
If the intake was further back, you would be able to seal the inside and outside all to the intake. This would allow you to take the pump off without breaking your seal. You will just have to reseal the outside every time you take the pump off, no big deal.
Kyle, I work on yachts, don't use silicone underwater. We only use "sikaflex 295 uv". Usually black below the water line. Black seems to hold up well under water. Clean very well with acetone first and sikaflex the bolt threads too.
You don't know anything stay quiet
@@ravir.3012 That is not a very compelling argument.
i'm curious what your reasoning is on that. not combating the opinion but trying to learn
@@ravir.3012 oh right. Go ahead and tell us the right way then.
Pinn thiss
Silicone seal both the inside AND outside of the jet housing Kyle, unless you want to really overwork your bilge pump like Jackstand is!
Make sure to use 3m marine sealant.
Absolutely the wrong way to do it, silicone has zero applications on a boat.
@@otm646 I can't remember exactly what it is, but 3M makes some stuff that's applied in much the same way as a silicone sealant. Whether or not if can fill the gap around the housing may be a different story.
As a marine tech for the last 20+ years I would recommend 3m 5200 for that application as well to scuff the surfaces with 80 grit then a good wipe down with acetone. Yes in the future it may be a pain to remove but that’s way better than a leak.
@@pw383426 hull itself isn't exposed to that except where the now welded-in plate is, doubt those welds are going anywhere unless they really trash the bottom of that boat..the intake housing goes out the transom straight to the pump assembly, doubt that area would really need Sea Goin..
Definitely the stuff. The intake doesn't need any sealant. The plates welded on.
Ive done hundreds of thru hull transducers using 5200 and none have ever leaked. Its not the easiest stuff to work with but it works at keeping water out. I think 5200 would work fine for sealing but I would also beef up the transom hole and weld some brackets to the beefed up area that mechanically fasten the transom to the pump, or maybe some stringers that fasten the hull to the transom hole. That transom is going to flex somewhat and the flex could break the 5200 seal without some mechanical support. Awesome work so far guys!
There is no advantage of 5200 over 4200 in this application. You know that pump is going to have to come back out they shouldn't have to fight 5200 with and debonder to make it happen.
@@otm646 this is true, I’ve used 4200 with great success too, and if they want to have the pump easier to remove for service than 4200 would be better.
Can't wait to see when y'all took on the Hoonicorn! I kinda think I got my money on you guys. I love the Hoonicorn, and Lia is a little beast, but the boiz got that Fast Panda.
I know it's taking forever to come out
me 2
Commonnnn Kyle
Ok I get it you can stop answering
Have they actually done it?
I'd recommend 3M Marine 5200 its pretty amazing stuff and holds up to rot below the waterline really well and is flexible enough for that joint.
A lot of people are sayin first 5200 is a bitch to rebuild/take off if you wanna change something, and the it requires a lot of work after long-term use. Idk though, just what I've read.
@@Dukes3677 the people saying that talk about sikaflex or sumn it might be the move
@@Dukes3677 There are several copy/paste comments about that 5200. Looks like company bots doing some advertising. 🤔
Put a ring around the transom hole. Fill the transom/jet void with sealant, a diy grommet.
@@ichoozjc I noticed that too, no one with half a brain would use 5200 for a removable part. Since bots don't have half a brain maybe you are on to something.
Wyatt in the back swinging on the swing had me weak 😂😂😂
Came straight to the comments to see who else caught that!!!! 🤣🤣🤣😂🤣😂
Damn bro fuckn eagle eyes over here😂😆
Shit i missed that but i take your word for it lol
That thing is going to be a BEAST!!👍
You should have counter sunk the mounting bolts, then plug welded them in place before welding the plate to the boat. Then you would not have to drill holes all the way through the boat. You would have had permanent mounting studs.
the plate is aluminium and the screws are steel, they cannot be welded together.
if they want to not drill through they can put in threaded inserts in the holes.
@@pippaengroda I know that they can't be welded together. This is why I suggested plug welding the screws in place. Filling the countersunk hole with aluminum, would also fill the screw driver slots. You could even grind more slots around the edge of the screw to create more spots for the aluminum to fill in to. This should be plenty to stop the screw from rotating.
I would not recommend using threaded inserts for something like this. It will have significant force trying to pull those inserts out of the soft aluminum.
@@SomeBoredGuy69 that sounds really sketchy. Trying to fill the screw head with aluminium? The screw is likely galvanized that will degass and wreck the weld. It would be less sketchy to glue them in place. But i would not want that in there. If they start spinning it will be a nightmare to get out and fix.
If really wanting studs there are studs that have splines and can be pressed in place. Just like wheel studs. But i would still not want that since if they break you cannot get them out without some major cutting to the plate or bottom of the boat. I would rather have a few counter sunk heads on the bottom of the boat.
With threaded inserts the screws will likely break before ripping out of the aluminium. Its used in loads of applications and is nothing new.
But the heads on the bottom will work fine aswell :)
@@pippaengroda I think we are both coming to the conclusion that they made the correct choice! LOL
Make sure that you use 3M 5200 to seal up the jet pump outlet to the boat
That stuff kicks ass would highly recommend. takes ages to fully cure though.
Nah 4200 so you can remove it 🙃
@@h0udinl no
Definitely notch that tube for the reverse. There’s gonna be some flex and vibration from the force of the jet. But looking solid
also noise and vibration, you dont want contact there
All that work and it looks great! what about protecting the pump since its long...maybe extend the bottom of the boat to protect the bottom of the pump? Think about all the jumps and submerged trees you will encounter that may leverage that pump!!
You could weld a ring on the inside if you need more surface for the silicone to adhere too..... and as soon as I type this you mention it. Good work guys, looking good.
Are you guys going to be able to run a stomp plate to clear debris from the intake?
Super cool, as a retired marine mechanic, I really enjoy this build.
Aluminum mig tip, always push the puddle, never drag no matter what position. your welds are black and full of contaminents because you're dragging
Nailed it
That jet pump looks gnarly on y’all jet boat! Can’t wait to see it finished
ruclips.net/video/ZY3CDDm-0dk/видео.html
Precision work done care of twisted tea..lol .. love it.. everything works better with adult beverages.
Can't wait to see you and Cleetus line up your jet boats. Ready to see where the K-swap stack's up against a Rotax jetski motor going to be interesting 🤔
There's been a k swap jet boat done years ago. There's not many that have seen it but if you search k24 jet boat it's there. It's probably going to smoke the seadoo's when it's turned and it sounds awesome
*stacks
thats gonna be a close race imo. unless they go turbo
@@chrisbarnhart4178 “unless they turbo it” lol. You know the score 😂
@@MrChrisdavie well it wouldn't be boostedboiz with no boost🤣
Hey Kyle!! Next time mig welding aluminum tray a push with an aggressive angle. It will really clean up the welds and reduce the soot.
Shame about the pump that circle was some of the cleanest jigsaw work I've ever seen
I can't wait to see the rooster tail that you will be able to throw with that. Maybe you can plaster Cleetus as you blow past him. You definitely ate going to have a beast with this motor and pump in this little rig.
Can we all take a moment and admire the clean cut at 14:00. Wow. Kyle , you nailed that one bro.
Beautiful sunny day in Florida, here in the 27 deg northern Utah were recovering from 14.5" of heavy wet snow! I f-in love it! Just not the cold yo, no ty. I digress, boats gonna fly, hopefully not literally
I almost wonder if you could've put the intake a little further back then. Hopefully that doesn't become a problem with the tight engine clearance 😬
The good thing was they measured current clearances with where the pump is to where motor mounts, but if they did know about mounting it properly from the start they might’ve been able to move the whole setup back a bit further Forsure!
Either way, AMPED to see this progress and watch the Bois create some super unique and fun toys we all wish we could go for RipperRooos in!
Yeah, jet boats are usually barely in the water at the stern, hopefully there is enough boat in the water back there to be able to suck enough water in continuously. I guess we will see.
The farther back the better! Just like drag jet boats like Finney's, the farther you move the jet pump back the more the boat will come out of the water at speed
3M 5200. Best marine sealant/adhesive.
Man I love that u thought ur self to weld I just bought my 1st mig going to go for it bro thanks for the inspration
You guys have come a long way with your fab work through the years. This little boat is going to be Razzle Dazzle on the water. Hope the whole Boosted Boiz crew has an epic holiday season.
Can I just for one say I am HYPE about the boat?? Love that yall are taking more time to do it, and give it the go it deserves! Cause bro cleets ski powered boats are quick af, now imagine a CAR motor making 350hp-350trq with a turbo. Wild
Nice I was just searching for so thing to watch and then... BAM.. Boosted Boyz
Looks like it’s sitting pretty high up. Guessing it’s due to the bracing in the bottom of the hull. However, ride plates on a boat are typically level with the bottom of the hull.
Coming along sick
Can't wait to see it ripping!!! I've never heard a welder that annoying but it does the job
Nice that you went international for your jet. Scott Jets are the bomb, even better 'cause they're made in New Zealand.
🇳🇿
Looking great Kyle,and Wyatt.Please use strips similar to the cut off pieces in a wide X brace on the floor beside the cut-out mount,and on the transom where the jet mounts.Your motor is so much above the power these were designed for.You'll see,and be glad.Have fun guys.Merry Christmas to All ! Edit=For the floor braces,drill holes on their bottom before welding so water can get to your sump pumps.
Hell yeah brother jet boat action.
Try Flex seal! You can put a screen door in your boat! It’s like the Hoover dam! In a can!
ruclips.net/video/ZY3CDDm-0dk/видео.html
Smart idea..I would perimeter weld the jetbox too.
Typically You want to have the intake of the pump set back as far as possible. Also the ride plate under the pump outside of the hull needs to be at the same elevation of the bottom of the hull. Helps the boat act longer, and puts you on plane faster. Take a look at finnegans pump set up on his drag boat
I agree, there are some improvements to be had with that ride plate situation.
Clean and effective way to seal the transom and jet would be to weld inside/or outside, both even. Weld a ring (short tube) around the jet onto the transom. 1 inch wide ring, even 1/2 inch ring would do. Then fill that void between the jet and transom with the marine sealant. Look and and work way better then just globbing the sealant on/around. Basically making a sleeved sealant grommet. Same idea as the jet block, but circular.
Fun to watch. Thanks for sharing!
I've replaced a few jet pump mounting plates over the years as a watercraft tech and my fav sealant is "the right stuff" Sea Doo actually calls to use it. Stuff hardens up as rubber. It's pricey but good.
Wago needs a drive shaft hoop!
Love seeing you weld now as well knowing you learned from trial and error and teaching. Your self
Kyle's not a self taught welder. He took shop/welding classes all through high school. Then he went to his local community college and got his full certification. He was going to be a pipeline welder, if his RUclips career fell through.
Kyle and Wyatt the jet boat soon to be K swapped looks awesome
Man this brings back memories of my Jetski JonBoat! I really miss that thing. 52mph in a 14ft aluminum boat is screaming!
Theres a build video on my channel if anyone wants to check it out.
Finnegan has been testing and replacing those blocks for fine tuning his drag boat.. Hopefully yours is set up good enough as it is!
Check out 3M 5200 for your seal.
I probably wouldve welded the sides of the intake uphill instead of downhill wouldve had to turn the welder down a little but it may have burnt in better and be stronger Idk what i was always told on steel not sure of aluminum. Love the jet boat
thumbs up from a 2 year subscriber! you guys should focus on more fabrication like this. you two and hayden's fab skills are so clean
Run a dry sump for that engine!! That boat will pull allot of gs
Would love to see this boat get a full wrap like James and Garret have done would look sick. Maybe a monster energy one or a black and red themed boosted Boiz livery
Twisted tea
Honda/Red Bull F1 inspired livery
fire sauce
Brents Coca Cola can
If you ever need to do any sort of painting on it before you send it away for paint, use a 50/50 mix of methylated spirits and water, and aggressively rub it on with a red scotch brite pad, then wipe it down with the same stuff (but clean of course) until there's no grey residue left on the rags, and then use a high quality 2 pack epoxy urethane primer to seal it. After that you can do what you want with it. This is PPG's prep procedure for doing repairs or repaints on aluminium boats. The Epoxy Urethane primer isn't specified in the procedure, but Delfleet etch and epoxy primers are specified there.
My advice…install a good bilge pump. 😀
ruclips.net/video/ZY3CDDm-0dk/видео.html
Yep can seal both sides, thin layer to get into the gap, wet finger/glove to smooth and dry/tack up, and then go around it again for that durable seal.
Good surprise, I didn’t think we would be seeing jet boat build for awhile, can’t wait to see it on the water
super keen to see you gap cleet and jackstand with 4 boosted boiz on board keep up the good work
Could have added a trim ring around the pump to get that extra thickness and then caulk. But either way it works nice job.
ruclips.net/video/ZY3CDDm-0dk/видео.html
I’m. So excited for you to make wolds first k swapped jet boat just wish you built engine more before install so you can turn it up when needed
damn those viper chairs are legit
I think you should wrap the boat in twisted tea.just a thought
I like that idea a lot lol! But its Kyles and not Wyatt's. Wyatt is the one who has shown he drinks twisted tea.
Boostedboiz let's go!
Weld your pump plate to the bottom of the boat, cut the center area out, and use an identical one on the inside, gasket between them. The bevel is welded to the plate and hid in the thickness of the plate. Picture it like a turbo pedestal spacer that penetrates the bottom of the boat and you just weld the seam.
3M 4200 or 5200 marine sealant is just what the doctor ordered for that gap. Has no problem holding up to abuse and salt water. Much stronger than any silicone or rtv gasket maker!
You're doing a better job than most of us would on a jet boat so props to you brother
Wyatt looking smooth with the quick barber visit
Nice work guys!!! The k-jet boat is going to be an animal!!!
Kyle, I’ll buy your truck off of you. How much do you want for it?
You guys should put a ride plate below that pump so you don’t bang it up when your jumpin trees👍👍👍
Tie that intake mount into the stringers. Spreads the load over the hull rather then just the sheet alloy
You should be welding vertical up boiz. Vertical down won’t give you as much penetration.
I'm loving the content. It's awesome seeing how the jet boat project is coming out!
The ride plate needs to be sorted out, it is a critical part of the way the boat handles, it should be flush with the bottom of the hull, putting a straight edge on the hull and out against the bottom of the ride plate is how you start. Check out Finnegan's channel where he is messing with that boat he and Newburn were playing with last summer, or ask around if you can find some go fast jet boat guys in the area. Fiberglass and aluminum are different to work with, but the fundamentals of loading a jet and getting the ride plate right are going to be the same.
🤔 maybe even add a few small gussets for strength to those frames right next to it.
👍🏻to help from twisting and and up or down force considering the amount of horses your gunna have .💪😉👍🏻
Put a dry sump on the motor, would prevent oil starvation scares and give you more room below
Build a custom aluminum oil pan and new oil pickup. Should help a lot with clearance. 🍻
Looking forward to seeing it in the water with the other guys
Those rims look sweet on" Wago"!!
That rig is gonna be an absolute MONSTER 🦖
Cant wait to see it in some H²O for the first time!! It's gonna RIP!
Kyle: it's about a 12½° angle...
SHIIT! you ain't foolin nobody boiee!.. 😆😂🤣
Great Job a little miss understanding but still everything is ok it's looking really nice the K series is going to look amazing in there and run even batter you guys are going to have so much fun with this Jet Boat it's going to be a blast.
Boiz I started a new job at a boat engine place your videos have genuinely helped me understand engines etc. Legends
Lookin forward to the jet boat build, gonna be bad ass.
Don’t stress that. Looks real good
Oh shit! Scott water keys are built and designed just down the road from me here in New Zealand lol
Make a ski rope hook up like a big tall loop where the reverse bucket is
This bad boy is going to be so fasttt
This is rad:) let’s go boiz:) 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸😊🇺🇸😊😊😊🇺🇸😊🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 can’t wait for the turbos.
ruclips.net/video/ZY3CDDm-0dk/видео.html
Use some waterproof caulking and just put a nice layer over the wields to make sure they’re sealed good.
I appreciate seeing the mistakes you make. Allows you and the viewers to learn and grow together as a community.
Keep it up guys!!!!!!!!!
Dude you are going to smoke ol cleet !! I see the beginning of the jet boat battles. Looks amazing and I'd do it the same way if it were mine.
Hell yeah brother
What about bracing, all the weight just hangs there? Especially if you are going to jump for it!
Love how u just go full send on everything 👍👌my kind of buddy
little tip, try a whip and pause motion with the aluminum gun
Wyat be looking like yaba-daba-doo
Jet boat content is what keeps me going. Car guy through and through but I'm hooked on the boats
Didn't mean it as why I'm here, the hatch was what got me hooked on the channel!
It’s all good!!! No one is judging 💪🏼👍🏻🔥
you guys really need to get an air powered grinder, and a man eater cutting wheel with all the aluminum work youll be doing on the boat and in the future..
basically just a 4" skillsaw blade, on a grinder.. but it has to be air powered, electric grinder will bind up, air powered will spin free if it gets stuck in the material.
boat is sick though, i really want one now lol.
Excellent fab work dudes!
Wyatt swinging in the background at 0:27 had me rolling
Double up the aluminum on the transim. Make it stronger and add material for sealing it up.
Exactly my thought. Ring sleeve of material to be filled with the sealant as grommet.
You expect silicone to hold up to jumping a jet boat with likely rubber mounts? Maybe I'm missing something but that's like a temporary solution at best and a way to sink at worst
If the intake was further back, you would be able to seal the inside and outside all to the intake. This would allow you to take the pump off without breaking your seal. You will just have to reseal the outside every time you take the pump off, no big deal.