Ivan I agree. We have turned into a disposable society. I am currently working on a 2008 Charger all wheel drive. While doing work on the suspension I noticed one of the inner axle boots was cracked right at the axle clamp. When I picked the part up at Napa I asked the counter guy how many boots he sells. Guy looked at me sized me up for being a cheap hack and proceeds to tell me nobody replaces them anymore and that it takes up to 3 hours to do one. I started wrenching in the 80’s and if possible I service the joint if it’s not run dry. All it takes is a couple times getting your ass handed to you after replacing cheap Chinese axles and having vibrations or ABS tone wheel issues to reconsider.
Great comment, David! Napa still has a decent supply of CV boots on hand luckily. Not sure they are of OEM quality, but better than a crappy aftermarket garbage axle!
Pine Hollow saves the day again! Second time one of his informative videos has saved me big bucks. FYI: The CV Kit as shown from your friendly Nissan dealer is PN: C97DA-JA00K (C97DAJA00K) - Price has gone up a little since 2018... it's now $46.
Only " Ivan the Destroyer " would tear into a turd like a half shaft. Instead of a rebuilt, he says " screw it, I'll do a reboot myself ". Got to love his persistence, that's why I support his channel.
You are supposed to add almost all, if not all of that grease when doing a cv boot. You want to try to fill that boot full of grease which isn't possible at the angle you were working on it. Three more bolts and a good pry and you would have had that cv axle out of the vehicle. When I was in tech school my teacher had told us you want to get every last drop of grease into the boots because they usually supply the same amount of grease with the kit that is in the joint originally. When going back together you want to keep the end of the boot and axle clean of any grease. I have seen boots fail after replacement because the grease causes the clamp not to seal it properly. Also you did not "burp" the joint. When filling it with grease you want to squeeze it to get any air out as the air will expand when hot and can cause boot failure. Hopefully this doesn't happen to you Ivan and your repair lasts the rest of the life of the vehicle!
Boy have I done many CV boots-I finally wised up and only buy RWD Fords and Lincolns. When I work on my wife's car, I tell her how lucky she was to marry a mechanic. She says but if I just married a doctor he would just buy me a new car! LOL
@@picklerix6162 yeah, doing both front wheel bearing on the 07 sienna, sway bar links, tie rods, ac recharge. Now moving to transmission oil service and then the spark plugs along with knock sensors; about 400 in parts but labor would have been triple that.
@@scientist100 my sister took her car to get inspected. The Nissan dealer quoted her $2100 for rear sway bar bushings all around sway bars and oil cooler gasket. I bought all the parts from Nissan for under $300 and she brought it back which passed inspection
Just a tip. Spray the cv boots with silicon spray at every oil change. I have two hundred ten thousand miles on my car, and still have the original axle boots.
I've got an 08 Odyssey with 200K miles on original axles and boots. The silicon spray is a pretty good idea. I think some of the differences in how long they last is whether the car is stored indoor or outdoors.
Thanks for your video i changed my own boot, 2011 nissan altima 2.5s, bolt sizes, 32 mm, 20 mm, 21 mm or 13/16 wrench and socket to take it off the shocks. I just took off the shocks hookup and was able to get the cv boot axle thing out without having to take off the brakes, make sure you have something ready to put under or hook up the whole thing, take it off n rest as follows^^^^^^^
I need to replace the passenger side CV boot on my 2009 Rogue and am intrigued by your suggestion of simply unhooking the shock in order to drop the strut assembly instead of the removing the knuckle bolts. Not sure if your suggestion only works with the Nissan Altima but it would be awesome if it works on the rogue. I surfed several Rogue repair forums but was unable to find anyone else who suggested dropping the struct via the shock approach. Its always either remove the knuckle bolts and drop the strut or disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. Grrr... Regardless I'm going to give it a try... UPDATE: Unfortunately dropping the shock is not an option on the Rogue... I mean you could do it... but you would also have to disconnect Connecting Rod Stabilizer - Suspension Sway Bar Link! Makes the job more involved not to mention to the potential to throw off the front end alignment.
I did this while back on our rogue and video was super helpful. You will most likely not do it in 15 mins however haha. The wheels also were not attached on my joint so just a heads up to others incase they carelessly fling them across the room like I did. Axle was super seized in knuckle for me so that was fun
I wanted to thank you for this video. One of the OEM clamps for the inner boot wasn't flipping over and I lost time messing with it to get it working and gave up and used an aftermarket one. I wish it took me only 15 minutes more like 4 hours but meh at least it is done. I just don't have the ugga duggas to squeeze those clamps on the outer boot. I've ordered one of those pliers that you put your ratchet on to tighten them up.
thanks dude. the dealership wanted to give me the stiff for 2g on axle assembly and 2.5 hours labor, for what you did in a 25 minute video for 35 bucks. thanks again.
Strange guys those Japanese, why put mustard in a CV joint? 🤣🤣🤣. Great Video ivan💪. Again i love that Autell Tpms tool, looks a lot better than what i have seen so far .
We put nissan in learning mode by shorting 1 pin connector under the dash 5-6 times with pig wire and then use OEC-15 EL-50448 scanner for 10$ to trigger pressure sensors on tires, lights will flash to confirm. Even though scanner tool listed for GM vehicles it works on same frequency for nissan too. If lights on the car don't flash after several presses on the scanner, then battery died on that sensor and needs replacement .
I had to replace the boots on my old '82 Reliant K car (Many years ago), and found that just replacing the whole axial assembly was FAR easier than just doing the boot. With winter conditions up here, the boot usually fails during winter, gets salt and sand in the joint before it is noticed - a real mess to clean out. My technique was to undo the axial nut, drop the lower control arm and pivot the bearing to the side to drop the shaft (easier than by the strut bolts). Took only about 20 minutes to change it all out. And the shaft cost was only marginally more than the boot kit, as you return the shaft and get the core charge back.
Took me 6 hours. Car fought me every way possible. At 11:00 Ivan just slides off the tripod, I had to use a small 3-jawed puller, the thing was crazy tight.
Great job and now I'm thinking I can do this on my Murano (hopefully similar enough to your Rogue). You do kinda kill me with your "re-use it" policies :-) Feels like if they give ya a new one you might as well use it. But... you're the one doing the work & you were kind enough to post a vid! Thank you.
yea I have a puker thats been on the outter for like 5 months now. Luckily it never rains here. Good using the OEM boot the aftermarket ones suck. You can always use a little shop and wand a towel and blow out most of the old grease. Maybe ill fix it Wednesday.
Brake Cleaner will clean all that grease out….Also clean the rollers…clean work area before the repair…clean out the housing too…New grease with old grease is contamination!! Punch works good to flatten side tabs on clamp…Good Job…
If you removed ball joint, instead of strut/knuckle bolts, you would not need to recheck toe adjustment. Shock bolts have a little play around them and do change toe settings.
Totally doable with hand tools and jack stands. Hardest part was getting the axle nut to break. Ended up using a breaker bar + cheater bar to get the torque I needed.
doorman 614-130 makes a cv tool that spreads the boot enough to put it on the car without removing the shaft but here in new york in my opinion if you were going to spend the money for a new boot most shafts at Napa are 50 after core I do the tool being I was in the collision field
I never did get a chance to play around with the Silverado's TPMS with my 906TS after watching one of your vids a while back. Now it's winter and the wheels are stacked up in the house here, LOL. I'll try and remember next Spring. Nice job on that axle. Easy as pie! Better than buying a new one ... because the new ones are probably made in china. :)
Ivan, Great video - thank you! Ive always read that if you disassemble a worn CV joint for any reason you should always match mark the assembly so the rollers end up in the same grooves they were in do to the unique wear patterns each roller and groove will have. What are your thoughts about this? BTW that Rogue should go 1/2 million miles! God bless Paul
Definately something I would ensure I do. Although it’s possible and may not matter why chance it. Just replace it back like you found it. Ivan - Have you done the outer joint? A friend had a Rogue CV replaced and gave me the old one which I took completely apart. For the life of me I cannot get the last ball bearing back into the cage. Not sure if there is a subtle thing I am missing but it’s driving me nuts. Great video!
Lol.... just had that caliper assembly off too! Superman'd it on?? I had no idea the dealer had CV boot kits! I'm always learning something new. Thanks Ivan!
latex gloves, rubber boots, tubes of lubricant , clamps . thought I was on xtube until saw ivan and the headband led light :-) Pretty simple those tri-lobe joints and makes cool shortcut dismantling as some of those carrier bearing brackets can be right pain, not so cool if the wheel and rollers come off easily so extra good those ones staked or clipped . Hard beat oem boots, fitand quality A1 and proper supporting parts . Some of the aftermarket Japan made boots very good but many boot kits lucky last 2000 miles let alone 200,000 of oem and can fit badly giving you ballache or comebacks . On wifes car don't wnat comebacks, man that days of ear and ballache lol ...
Have to do this shortly, so even though have Murano, good vid. Only thing I'm going to do is take the extra minute to really clean out that old crappy grease. No sense doing all that work and putting in fresh grease only to have a bunch of nasty contamination. And to really save time, just snip both clamps and use a razor knife to slice the boot off.
I thought replacing CV boots went out with the Walkman...I remember at some point there used to be split boots that needed gluing which were basically useless or others that required some kind of gigantic spreader to stretch boots for installation...My area sells new shafts for $59 to $69.00 average price..Easier to replace entire shaft and avoid the hassle (and possible shish kabob :) of disassembly and mess, that grease is really nasty and sticky... Nevertheless, another thumbs up video as usual from PHAD...
@@@johnaclark1 Gone thru two or three huh?...Sounds like there's more to the story...I've rarely had any issue with them other than wrong fit or box'ed wrong...Anyhow happy wrenching...Cheers!
@@@jamesd4846 It's all fun and games until somebody loses an eye...or skewers a hand...That said, remember to cut towards your buddy and not your body... ;) Cheers!
Привет Иван. Я прям так непроизвольно -" итсс Аааа", когда эта скрулдрайвер тебе в руку.,😉 Запили на нём замену втулок стабилизатора переднего,а потом на субаре.😉 Руки береги !
Thanks for your video it was very informative. Could you please tell me if this cv joint would cause a rubbing noise as the wheel assembly turns. If it makes a noise does that mean that i have to change the whole cv joint or can i just change the boot and put new grease in? The noise just started happening.
That cv joint housing is splined to the stub shaft. The clip in the kit it to replace the one in the housing. If you would have pried behind the cv housing it would pop off the stub shaft.
Dude, you should take a class on brake cleaner use, from Eric O. A can of brake cleaner costs $3 and would have washed out most of the old grease and dirt. This puny Nissan is not as "tough" and sophisticated as your ZAZ 968. LOL. It requires tender love and -care- fresh grease only.
You said 15 min Ivan. The video was over 26 min. Just funnin ya. Sucks they make that bugger so ya can’t pull the whole shaft out and throw a remanufactured one in. They are pretty cheap. Did ya remember the position of the alignment bolt when ya reattached the knuckle to the strut? That cv joint looks a lot like the 70s Olds Toronado joints did
A new passenger-side CarDone axle shaft for my wife's Murano cost about 40-50 bucks on Ebay. It is actually much easier to replace the right front axle shaft than it is to replace the serpentine belt on my wife's car. BTW, he's going to be working on that Nissan again very soon. I think we might be seeing him replace the high pressure power steering hose next. A word of advice. Buy the aftermarket power steering hose. The Nissan factory power steering hoses are expensive and are junk and are not covered under the factory warranty.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics my nephews car had electric assist also. Could get interesting working on them buggers. I gotta hope they don’t come with a clock spring in the steering wheel
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Never had to work on electric assist yet. I am not a mechanic so I am not familiar with the Nissan Rogue. I can't afford to pay $500+ to the dealer to replace a hose or strut so I do most of that work myself. Keep up the good work and I like your videos.
I'm told you should not use the molybdenum disulfide grease that is used in the outside joint in the Tripod end. They have different grease. Might be a pedantic point. What to others think/know about this???
I think 35 bucks is a little pricey for a piece of rubber and some grease! They make an aftermarket boot now Witt a tongue and groove slot, where you take nothing apart, just remove clamps, cut off old boot with a single edge razor blade, install new boot with grease. Connect tongue and groove , reinstall clamps, done. I don’t think that the later boots have to be changed nearly as much. My time meter said I was watching for twenty five minutes and 58 seconds. And it’s twenty till 3 am
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
A 25 minutes video on a 15 minutes fix. I would have slit the boot and got it out of the way at the beginning since you were going to replace it anyway.
Messy messy should clean up old grease. Not knowing if the old grease is completely compatible with new. Just good work habits. Cleaning up lets you find problems hidden by nasty old grease.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No, I have not worked on Nissan BUT for Honda Accord you just take a long crowbar and slowly and gently pry out the axle from the transmission housing. With pressure it should pop right out.
Do you lose transmission fluid when you take the axle out? The Rogue has an intermediate support bearing on the right half shaft (shown in the beginning of the video) which is not easy to remove. :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Just some fluid leaking out but not bad. You just have to check the fluid level when the car is hot after running and stationary.
Man- Wifey's ride is getting a lot o' love this year! Mrs. O's van is too lately. I'd like to see your better half turn a wrench some day. I was always taught to completely disassemble & remove all traces of the old grease too. My understanding of that, and from what I've read- is that there is a slight chance of the greases being different enough, to let one chemically break down the other into a useless slurry. I guess you could always take a sample of the old, and a blob of new, then mix with fingers- see what happens. You mentioned the other axle boot "snapping in half" was it one of those godawful 2-piece boot kits, that merely glue together? Those are very chancy at best. There are usually two types of boot- hard thermoplastic, and soft rubber. They both have their own pros & cons. My '89 Buick had the hard type OEM. In the replacement I went with the rubber type, thinking it to be more flexible. The same goes for those easy clamps- they're great till an ear snaps from fatigue. Time will tell. The OEM lasted 28 years and 169k mi.
I can't find any videos on a Nissan Quest van doing this exact same thing. But I'm doing one and I cannot find that clip that is holding that CV joint in there. It seems almost like the housing is holding it in there. I've even tried removing the housing, if any of you understand how that works, you end up getting those bolts finally out, but that housing will never break loose because of the amount of rust. I've seen one guy use a tool to remove it. I've even seen boot kits that are split and can be glued back together or screwed together to where you don't have to remove any of this, but of course I can't find one for a 2012 Nissan Quest. I am so frustrated! Anyone got help for a Nissan Quest specifically?
Ivan I agree. We have turned into a disposable society. I am currently working on a 2008 Charger all wheel drive. While doing work on the suspension I noticed one of the inner axle boots was cracked right at the axle clamp. When I picked the part up at Napa I asked the counter guy how many boots he sells. Guy looked at me sized me up for being a cheap hack and proceeds to tell me nobody replaces them anymore and that it takes up to 3 hours to do one. I started wrenching in the 80’s and if possible I service the joint if it’s not run dry. All it takes is a couple times getting your ass handed to you after replacing cheap Chinese axles and having vibrations or ABS tone wheel issues to reconsider.
Great comment, David! Napa still has a decent supply of CV boots on hand luckily. Not sure they are of OEM quality, but better than a crappy aftermarket garbage axle!
Pine Hollow saves the day again! Second time one of his informative videos has saved me big bucks. FYI: The CV Kit as shown from your friendly Nissan dealer is PN: C97DA-JA00K (C97DAJA00K) - Price has gone up a little since 2018... it's now $46.
Only " Ivan the Destroyer " would tear into a turd like a half shaft. Instead of a rebuilt, he says " screw it, I'll do a reboot myself ". Got to love his persistence, that's why I support his channel.
haha thanks for your support, Robert!
My back hurts watching you do all these jobs with jack stands, love the videos, very authentic
You are supposed to add almost all, if not all of that grease when doing a cv boot. You want to try to fill that boot full of grease which isn't possible at the angle you were working on it. Three more bolts and a good pry and you would have had that cv axle out of the vehicle. When I was in tech school my teacher had told us you want to get every last drop of grease into the boots because they usually supply the same amount of grease with the kit that is in the joint originally. When going back together you want to keep the end of the boot and axle clean of any grease. I have seen boots fail after replacement because the grease causes the clamp not to seal it properly. Also you did not "burp" the joint. When filling it with grease you want to squeeze it to get any air out as the air will expand when hot and can cause boot failure. Hopefully this doesn't happen to you Ivan and your repair lasts the rest of the life of the vehicle!
Thanks for this info
Boy have I done many CV boots-I finally wised up and only buy RWD Fords and Lincolns. When I work on my wife's car, I tell her how lucky she was to marry a mechanic. She says but if I just married a doctor he would just buy me a new car! LOL
hahaha great comment, Alan!
My retired neighbor says she really misses her dearly-departed mechanic husband every time her car breaks down.
@@picklerix6162 yeah, doing both front wheel bearing on the 07 sienna, sway bar links, tie rods, ac recharge. Now moving to transmission oil service and then the spark plugs along with knock sensors; about 400 in parts but labor would have been triple that.
@@scientist100 my sister took her car to get inspected. The Nissan dealer quoted her $2100 for rear sway bar bushings all around sway bars and oil cooler gasket. I bought all the parts from Nissan for under $300 and she brought it back which passed inspection
Hahaha unless he is a broke doctor.
Just a tip. Spray the cv boots with silicon spray at every oil change. I have two hundred ten thousand miles on my car, and still have the original axle boots.
A great tip but I can never find my silicone spray when I need it most.
I've found that CV boots on old GM vehicles last a lifetime...they feel more like plastic (EPDM?) rather than rubber. Wish they were all like that!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 245000 on my '96 gutless supreme, never sprayed them with anything.
I've got an 08 Odyssey with 200K miles on original axles and boots. The silicon spray is a pretty good idea. I think some of the differences in how long they last is whether the car is stored indoor or outdoors.
@@johnaclark1 If you have a Honda, the correct grease to use is Shin Etsu. *sips tea with pinky extended*
Thanks for your video i changed my own boot, 2011 nissan altima 2.5s, bolt sizes, 32 mm, 20 mm, 21 mm or 13/16 wrench and socket to take it off the shocks. I just took off the shocks hookup and was able to get the cv boot axle thing out without having to take off the brakes, make sure you have something ready to put under or hook up the whole thing, take it off n rest as follows^^^^^^^
I need to replace the passenger side CV boot on my 2009 Rogue and am intrigued by your suggestion of simply unhooking the shock in order to drop the strut assembly instead of the removing the knuckle bolts. Not sure if your suggestion only works with the Nissan Altima but it would be awesome if it works on the rogue. I surfed several Rogue repair forums but was unable to find anyone else who suggested dropping the struct via the shock approach. Its always either remove the knuckle bolts and drop the strut or disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. Grrr... Regardless I'm going to give it a try... UPDATE: Unfortunately dropping the shock is not an option on the Rogue... I mean you could do it... but you would also have to disconnect Connecting Rod Stabilizer - Suspension Sway Bar Link! Makes the job more involved not to mention to the potential to throw off the front end alignment.
Nice job, Ivan. My back and knees were hurting just watching you.
I just use the welcome mat to make it softer on the knees :)
this is just a warm-up. next month Ivan will do the same job no parts or tools required.
I did this while back on our rogue and video was super helpful. You will most likely not do it in 15 mins however haha. The wheels also were not attached on my joint so just a heads up to others incase they carelessly fling them across the room like I did. Axle was super seized in knuckle for me so that was fun
I wanted to thank you for this video. One of the OEM clamps for the inner boot wasn't flipping over and I lost time messing with it to get it working and gave up and used an aftermarket one. I wish it took me only 15 minutes more like 4 hours but meh at least it is done. I just don't have the ugga duggas to squeeze those clamps on the outer boot. I've ordered one of those pliers that you put your ratchet on to tighten them up.
Everything went just right on this one Ivan. Those clamps can be pesky depending on what type they are. Thanks!
The Gods of work demand blood on every job.
thanks dude. the dealership wanted to give me the stiff for 2g on axle assembly and 2.5 hours labor, for what you did in a 25 minute video for 35 bucks. thanks again.
Wow what a dealership scam haha
Nice job Ivan! In 15 minutes I'd still be gathering tools and getting ready to jack up the car 😂
Great video Ivan.. Only thing I would do different.. I would have changed out both the outer and inner boot, while I had the axle out.
One of the more "glamorous" jobs that techs sometimes have to do. I could happily live without ever having to do another one ever again😊😊
Strange guys those Japanese, why put mustard in a CV joint? 🤣🤣🤣. Great Video ivan💪. Again i love that Autell Tpms tool, looks a lot better than what i have seen so far .
lol
Is a hotdog restaurant in Nishi-Ku Japan putting oem nissan cv grease on sausages :-S
We put nissan in learning mode by shorting 1 pin connector under the dash 5-6 times with pig wire
and then use OEC-15 EL-50448 scanner for 10$ to trigger pressure sensors on tires, lights will flash to confirm.
Even though scanner tool listed for GM vehicles it works on same frequency for nissan too.
If lights on the car don't flash after several presses on the scanner, then battery died on that sensor and needs replacement .
you gave me the pucker effect using that screw driver on the strap next to the new boot!
I have to do this on my mom's 2014 rogue select with only 30k on the clock. Quality work, Nissan.
I had to replace the boots on my old '82 Reliant K car (Many years ago), and found that just replacing the whole axial assembly was FAR easier than just doing the boot. With winter conditions up here, the boot usually fails during winter, gets salt and sand in the joint before it is noticed - a real mess to clean out. My technique was to undo the axial nut, drop the lower control arm and pivot the bearing to the side to drop the shaft (easier than by the strut bolts). Took only about 20 minutes to change it all out. And the shaft cost was only marginally more than the boot kit, as you return the shaft and get the core charge back.
Ivan you are an amazing individual!!! Hope all is well with you and your family. Nice work!!
Thanks Dave! Looking forward to the holidays and the New Year :)
Must have given those caliper bracket bolts too many ooga doogas when you installed them. Need a consult with Eric O.😬
Jeff Leach He needs to give those bolts the beans.
I was thinking the same exact thing!
@@Paul1958R ..and then torque everything to factory spec, right? :)
No he just did not say click loud enough
Ivan, you’re a genius. Learned something new.
Took me 6 hours. Car fought me every way possible. At 11:00 Ivan just slides off the tripod, I had to use a small 3-jawed puller, the thing was crazy tight.
Well done, boy that grease looked funky. I meant the new grease.
Hi Ivan hope you’re doing well hope you had a good Thanksgiving! Thanks for your videos great and informative as usual! Doug
Happy wife happy life! Good job, Ivan! Piece of mind is great!!
Thank you Ivan. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a blessed and safe week. Should have hit up Eric O for some of his musical SMA brake clean.
Great job and now I'm thinking I can do this on my Murano (hopefully similar enough to your Rogue).
You do kinda kill me with your "re-use it" policies :-) Feels like if they give ya a new one you might as well use it.
But... you're the one doing the work & you were kind enough to post a vid! Thank you.
yea I have a puker thats been on the outter for like 5 months now. Luckily it never rains here. Good using the OEM boot the aftermarket ones suck. You can always use a little shop and wand a towel and blow out most of the old grease. Maybe ill fix it Wednesday.
Only for those that can execute the squat down and work on stuff maneuver like Ivan can!
Great video as always Ivan!
that is nice with that new scanner! I do it the old way....and a Nissan boot that wont crack in 2 years too!
Brake Cleaner will clean all that grease out….Also clean the rollers…clean work area before the repair…clean out the housing too…New grease with old grease is contamination!! Punch works good to flatten side tabs on clamp…Good Job…
If you removed ball joint, instead of strut/knuckle bolts, you would not need to recheck toe adjustment. Shock bolts have a little play around them and do change toe settings.
Just knocked this out (in about an hour and a half, lol), your video was a great tutorial.
Totally doable with hand tools and jack stands. Hardest part was getting the axle nut to break. Ended up using a breaker bar + cheater bar to get the torque I needed.
This was awesome, thank you for the making of the video.
Ivan, If that boot stays in place you will be very very lucky. There is a special tool for putting on those factory clamps.
what is the tool called or link to website?
doorman 614-130 makes a cv tool that spreads the boot enough to put it on the car without removing the shaft but here in new york in my opinion if you were going to spend the money for a new boot most shafts at Napa are 50 after core I do the tool being I was in the collision field
I never did get a chance to play around with the Silverado's TPMS with my 906TS after watching one of your vids a while back. Now it's winter and the wheels are stacked up in the house here, LOL. I'll try and remember next Spring.
Nice job on that axle. Easy as pie! Better than buying a new one ... because the new ones are probably made in china. :)
Ivan,
Great video - thank you! Ive always read that if you disassemble a worn CV joint for any reason you should always match mark the assembly so the rollers end up in the same grooves they were in do to the unique wear patterns each roller and groove will have. What are your thoughts about this? BTW that Rogue should go 1/2 million miles!
God bless
Paul
Not a terrible idea, but they should wear very evenly so doesn't really matter in my opinion :)
I tend do this when pulling tri-lobes as less chance of hassle of noises or vibration and less variables if do get problems shortly after repair .
Definately something I would ensure I do. Although it’s possible and may not matter why chance it. Just replace it back like you found it. Ivan - Have you done the outer joint? A friend had a Rogue CV replaced and gave me the old one which I took completely apart. For the life of me I cannot get the last ball bearing back into the cage. Not sure if there is a subtle thing I am missing but it’s driving me nuts. Great video!
Lol...I knew the breaker bar was coming at some point. Great vid, Ivan.
That wasn't even the long one haha
I love my MK808 but I didn't get the one with the TPMS relearn. That's pretty handy. Nice work on the boot too.
Ivan, that's great and easy job to do. But I'm jealous of the TPMS stuff!! No fair lol
I'm unsubbing! Parts were used in the making of this video! When we get back to duct tape let me know
😜
hahaha Keith you will enjoy my next video series then I promise xD
😂🤣😂🤣
Take this boy away from Long Island for few months and hes a part swapper.
He did re-use some old parts Keith. He should get some points for that. :)
New Level Auto
Aleskyfinis
Lol.... just had that caliper assembly off too! Superman'd it on?? I had no idea the dealer had CV boot kits! I'm always learning something new. Thanks Ivan!
Yeah I was surprised too! In a pinch I'll get CV boots from NAPA, but they usually only last a few years before tearing again...
Ian, I agree with using OEM boot better quality. Now we'll get a second video when you replace the outer boot.
haha for sure!
Good thing I found this video .thank you
My pleasure!
latex gloves, rubber boots, tubes of lubricant , clamps .
thought I was on xtube until saw ivan and the headband led light :-)
Pretty simple those tri-lobe joints and makes cool shortcut dismantling as some of those carrier bearing brackets can be right pain, not so cool if the wheel and rollers come off easily so extra good those ones staked or clipped .
Hard beat oem boots, fitand quality A1 and proper supporting parts . Some of the aftermarket Japan made boots very good but many boot kits lucky last 2000 miles let alone 200,000 of oem and can fit badly giving you ballache or comebacks .
On wifes car don't wnat comebacks, man that days of ear and ballache lol ...
You have to wash and clean it because it is black due to wear and tear, not necessarily because contamination from outside got in.
If you just pop the lower ball joint instead of the 2 lower strut bolts, you won't have to get it re-aligned.
poping the lower ball joint aint easy without damaging the ball joint boot.
And a baby is born. ... to quote Erick O.
I think you did that job to play with some new japanese grease :-D
Looks like you caught it just in time :-D
Have to do this shortly, so even though have Murano, good vid.
Only thing I'm going to do is take the extra minute to really clean out that old crappy grease. No sense doing all that work and putting in fresh grease only to have a bunch of nasty contamination.
And to really save time, just snip both clamps and use a razor knife to slice the boot off.
Great video you are a life saver! How many gallons is your air compressor?
Great job
Bring on winter's rage!
I thought replacing CV boots went out with the Walkman...I remember at some point there used to be split boots that needed gluing which were basically useless or others that required some kind of gigantic spreader to stretch boots for installation...My area sells new shafts for $59
to $69.00 average price..Easier to replace entire shaft and avoid the hassle (and possible shish kabob :) of disassembly and mess, that grease is really nasty and sticky...
Nevertheless, another thumbs up video as usual from PHAD...
don't think I've changed on in 10+ years, although I kind of recall using a junk "wrap-around" boot, while one was order.
$69 axles are poor quality and I've often gone through two or three of them before getting a good one. I'd rather change a set of OEM boots.
wait, what's a CV half shaft :))
yeah I like RWD with a driveshaft, u-joints, real axles lol
@@@johnaclark1
Gone thru two or three huh?...Sounds like there's more to the story...I've rarely had any issue with them other than wrong fit or box'ed wrong...Anyhow happy wrenching...Cheers!
@@@jamesd4846
It's all fun and games until somebody loses an eye...or skewers a hand...That said, remember to cut towards your buddy and not your body... ;) Cheers!
Привет Иван. Я прям так непроизвольно -" итсс Аааа", когда эта скрулдрайвер тебе в руку.,😉 Запили на нём замену втулок стабилизатора переднего,а потом на субаре.😉 Руки береги !
Speaking of boots you need a new pair for your feet man, tell mama to hook you up.
As usual, awesome performance.
Time stamp: 9:40 It's a Pretty Simple Process LMAO.. Not for the Layman.. I still love what you do Ivan....
HI IVAN I JUST WACHED YOUR VIDEO ON YOUR BIKE REPAIR NICE BIKE AND GOOD SPORT
its just plain ridiculous not clean the old grease out of the parts.
That would risk introducing more dirt in there!
Way to go again Ivan.
Thanks for your video it was very informative. Could you please tell me if this cv joint would cause a rubbing noise as the wheel assembly turns. If it makes a noise does that mean that i have to change the whole cv joint or can i just change the boot and put new grease in? The noise just started happening.
Clearr video, works als for qashqai. 15 min, I doubt it, but does not matter.
That cv joint housing is splined to the stub shaft. The clip in the kit it to replace the one in the housing. If you would have pried behind the cv housing it would pop off the stub shaft.
Nice, now I need a new glove ...
... and maybe several stitches.
In the end happy wife, happy husband.
Nice and honest video. Thank you
Pretty good job
Dude, you should take a class on brake cleaner use, from Eric O.
A can of brake cleaner costs $3 and would have washed out most of the old grease and dirt. This puny Nissan is not as "tough" and sophisticated as your ZAZ 968. LOL. It requires tender love and -care- fresh grease only.
You don't clean the old dirty grease from the joint ?
Ivan, may I suggest that You get a Lexus es350 next time for Amanda cuz she'd love those cars.
She loves the Rogue...AWD and plenty of room to haul some horse feed :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics horse feed? You have a horse?
My wife has 3 retired thoroughbreds...it's like the retirement home for old cars and horses ;)
You said 15 min Ivan. The video was over 26 min. Just funnin ya. Sucks they make that bugger so ya can’t pull the whole shaft out and throw a remanufactured one in. They are pretty cheap. Did ya remember the position of the alignment bolt when ya reattached the knuckle to the strut? That cv joint looks a lot like the 70s Olds Toronado joints did
A new passenger-side CarDone axle shaft for my wife's Murano cost about 40-50 bucks on Ebay. It is actually much easier to replace the right front axle shaft than it is to replace the serpentine belt on my wife's car. BTW, he's going to be working on that Nissan again very soon. I think we might be seeing him replace the high pressure power steering hose next. A word of advice. Buy the aftermarket power steering hose. The Nissan factory power steering hoses are expensive and are junk and are not covered under the factory warranty.
Hopefully I won't have to replace any power steering hoses anytime soon....this Rogue has electric assist steering xD
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics my nephews car had electric assist also. Could get interesting working on them buggers. I gotta hope they don’t come with a clock spring in the steering wheel
I don't mind electric assist...until something goes wrong, then it's expensive as hell to repair!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Never had to work on electric assist yet. I am not a mechanic so I am not familiar with the Nissan Rogue. I can't afford to pay $500+ to the dealer to replace a hose or strut so I do most of that work myself. Keep up the good work and I like your videos.
why wouldnt you use the new clips?? I mean they give you new ones and their right there so why not just change them out???
Im literally currently doing a transmission job on this vehicle for a customer
Fun times!
I'm told you should not use the molybdenum disulfide grease that is used in the outside joint in the Tripod end. They have different grease. Might be a pedantic point. What to others think/know about this???
The old grease has water contamination in it .. the mousse effect is the soap in the soap+oil=grease took on water.
I think 35 bucks is a little pricey for a piece of rubber and some grease! They make an aftermarket boot now Witt a tongue and groove slot, where you take nothing apart, just remove clamps, cut off old boot with a single edge razor blade, install new boot with grease. Connect tongue and groove , reinstall clamps, done. I don’t think that the later boots have to be changed nearly as much. My time meter said I was watching for twenty five minutes and 58 seconds. And it’s twenty till 3 am
Gotta make sure the wife can make it to work!
Just curious why you didn't pull the entire joint out. That way you could have cleaned it up and ended up doing a better job on the bench.
By the way, thank you for making videos and sharing your knowledge.
Because all gearoil comes out -messy
man, that Nissan has really gone Rogue as of late =p
haha Hopefully this is the last of the wear-and-tear items for a little while!!
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
A 25 minutes video on a 15 minutes fix. I would have slit the boot and got it out of the way at the beginning since you were going to replace it anyway.
Messy messy should clean up old grease. Not knowing if the old grease is completely compatible with new. Just good work habits. Cleaning up lets you find problems hidden by nasty old grease.
Thank you for sharing !
Why didn't you pop the whole axle out and work on it on the floor? It is easier that way...
Have you ever taken out the right side CV shaft on a Nissan Rogue? Would take about 4 times as long as this method lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No, I have not worked on Nissan BUT for Honda Accord you just take a long crowbar and slowly and gently pry out the axle from the transmission housing. With pressure it should pop right out.
Do you lose transmission fluid when you take the axle out? The Rogue has an intermediate support bearing on the right half shaft (shown in the beginning of the video) which is not easy to remove. :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Just some fluid leaking out but not bad. You just have to check the fluid level when the car is hot after running and stationary.
Man- Wifey's ride is getting a lot o' love this year! Mrs. O's van is too lately. I'd like to see your better half turn a wrench some day.
I was always taught to completely disassemble & remove all traces of the old grease too. My understanding of that, and from what I've read- is that there is a slight chance of the greases being different enough, to let one chemically break down the other into a useless slurry. I guess you could always take a sample of the old, and a blob of new, then mix with fingers- see what happens.
You mentioned the other axle boot "snapping in half" was it one of those godawful 2-piece boot kits, that merely glue together? Those are very chancy at best.
There are usually two types of boot- hard thermoplastic, and soft rubber. They both have their own pros & cons. My '89 Buick had the hard type OEM. In the replacement I went with the rubber type, thinking it to be more flexible. The same goes for those easy clamps- they're great till an ear snaps from fatigue.
Time will tell. The OEM lasted 28 years and 169k mi.
What's a typical boot replacement repair cost? 2008 Altima has some green grease spewing.
You can get a tool for your air compressor to stretch the boot over the joint no need to take them apart
Thanks!
13:13 Scotty recently made a video of wearing gloves can save your hands
You're also convincing me with that autel
13:15 at least that wasn't your Flesh you ripped open there man. Glad that was avoided!
where did u put that hydrolic jack in the front. could u do video where to put for rear and where to put safety stands
my cv boot didnt come with grease. which grease type should i fill cv boot with for nissan rogue? Too many grease at store but none say cv!
Nice. Any idea if this boot is the same as the 2005 Murano?
I can't find any videos on a Nissan Quest van doing this exact same thing. But I'm doing one and I cannot find that clip that is holding that CV joint in there. It seems almost like the housing is holding it in there. I've even tried removing the housing, if any of you understand how that works, you end up getting those bolts finally out, but that housing will never break loose because of the amount of rust. I've seen one guy use a tool to remove it. I've even seen boot kits that are split and can be glued back together or screwed together to where you don't have to remove any of this, but of course I can't find one for a 2012 Nissan Quest. I am so frustrated! Anyone got help for a Nissan Quest specifically?
The clip your talking about at 8:30, what do you do if there is no clip there and the rollers still don't come out? It's a nissan maxima